Haricot vegetable (Chinese) vigna - growing

Vigna recalls asparagus beans, but with huge, meter-long pods, their wings are very tender and tasty, completely without coarse fibers. Garnishes and salads from wigna are non-nutritious, rich in minerals and protein, they will decorate any table, and the plants themselves will become an exotic decoration of the garden. Let's grow them together!

What is interesting about Vigna?

Vigna came to us from China, where it is very popular. Due to its resemblance, it is often confused with asparagus beans. But in taste and productivity, it significantly exceeds it. The plant pods reach a length of 30 to 100 cm (depending on the variety) and do not coarse for a long time. The cue is very decorative and growing rapidly - you can plant it near the gazebo or fence, where it will not only give a good harvest, but also create comfort.

Characteristics of growing Vigna

Vigna comes from the tropical regions, it is very thermophilic. Of all species for cultivation in the middle belt in the open ground, the varieties of Chinese cowpea are most suitable. Plant the plant in the ground after the warm weather has finally settled, because any cooling even at a plus temperature can ruin it, so in the middle zone it is grown only in seedlings.

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Reference by topic: Vigna - Beans: Growing

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Sowing seeds of corn for seedlings

Start sowing in the first decade of May. Treat the seeds in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, then rinse well. Wrap them in a damp cloth. To keep the fabric dry, place the seeds in a small container with a lid or plastic bag and place in a warm place (+ 25 ° C). Rinse the seeds and cloth daily in warm running water. In 5-6 days they will germinate (1).

Prepare the soil mixture for sowing. To obtain strong seedlings, the mixture must be loose and nutritious, containing a lot of organic matter. Mix the peat, garden soil and humus (1: 1: 1) and add 0,5 pieces of washed sand. Peat and garden soil can be replaced with the finished mixture from the store.

Vigna does not tolerate damage to the root system, so it is better to grow the seedlings in peat pots and plant them in the ground with them, without touching the small roots. Fill the pots with the prepared mixture for about 3L of volume. Lighten up a little. Place the seeds on 2-3 seed in each pot (2). Top the seeds with the soil mixture with a layer of 2-3 cm (3). Water in small portions so that the seeds do not surface. If necessary, add a soil mixture (4).

To ensure that the surface of the pots does not dry out and the roots successfully germinate through moist walls, you can place the peat pot in suitable plastic pots or wrap them with plastic wrap (5).

Put the crops in a hothouse or cover them with plastic wrap and place them in a warm place where the temperature will not fall below + 25 ° С (6). Ensure that the soil always remains wet.

Care of seedlings of cowpea

On the 5-7th day shoots appear. Put them in a bright place, the temperature can be reduced to + 18 ... + 20 ° С. Take cover. When the seedlings get stronger and the first pair of true leaves appears, remove the extra seedlings, leaving the strongest (7). Maintain the soil in a moderately wet state: the signal does not like drying out roots and painfully suffers waterlogging.

Every two weeks, feed the seedlings with a solution of mineral fertilizer for seedlings ("Agricola", "Fertika").

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Read more: Vegetable Beans - Planting and Growing

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Planting of vegetable beans in the ground

It is necessary to plant cowl in the soil no earlier than mid-June, when the soil warms up to + 15 ° С. Vigna very quickly grows vegetative mass, therefore, unlike other legumes, it requires very fertile soils. Add 2-3 kg of rotted manure to 1 m2. In addition to 1 m2 you must make: 30 g superphosphate and 20 g potash. Dig carefully to ensure that fertilizers are evenly distributed to a depth of 30.

Unfortunately, peat pots sometimes come in poor quality and the roots do not germinate well through the walls, so the parts of the pot, in which the roots do not have time to germinate, should be carefully removed without damaging the roots (8). Feel free to plant directly with the peat pot, if the roots evenly sprouted through the walls.

Prepare for planting holes at a distance of 30 cm in a row and 45 cm between rows. When planting, make sure that the root neck remains at the level of the soil surface (9). Well pour in (10).

After watering, peel the planting with peat: so you prevent the formation of soil crust and keep the soil from drying (11).

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See also: Varieties of beans - new and better

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Vigna: care

At first, after planting, it is possible to cover the bed with covering material, because in the middle zone cold nights in June is not a rare phenomenon, and Vigna does not like large temperature drops: at temperatures below + 10 ° C, it lags behind in growth and even dies. With the onset of truly warm weather, remove the shelter and put strong supports.

Once a week, feed a full mineral fertilizer, containing not only nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but also trace elements such as molybdenum, zinc, boron and manganese. Especially good she responds to the feeding of liquid fermented mullein. Soil keep in a damp and friable state. Vigna reacts poorly to soil compaction, and if there is a lack of moisture, especially during budding, flowers and ovaries may fall. Fruiting begins in 30-40 days after transplanting. If you are not going to receive your seeds, then do not wait until the pods grow to 100 cm. Take them off ten days after the ovaries are formed, until they are rough. This will stimulate the formation of new ovaries.

Put the crops in a hothouse or cover them with plastic wrap and place them in a warm place where the temperature will not fall below + 25 ° С (6). Ensure that the soil always remains wet.

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Growing Wigny - A Personal Experience

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FASHION FOR HOLIDAY EXOTS HAS NO LONG-TERM FLOWERS ON THE COUNTRY COTTONS, BUT NOT UNABLE VESSELS. POROY SIMPLE DIVE GIVES, HOW FARLY SHANGED THE BREEDERS.

This famine and our family have not bypassed this.

Three years ago, my sister in the spring gave me 40 small, cocoa-colored, seeds of asparagus bean, calling them the mysterious word vign. Knowing the commitment of our entire family to a healthy diet (age obliges), she was sure that I would use all my strength to grow a novelty. After reading enough material about this one-year plant of the Legumes family, I was imbued with the importance of the moment and decided that the signal at our summer cottage would take pride of place. This is what happened. The vast majority of varieties of cowpea, which is also called asparagus beans, are curly. Liana can reach more than 2 m, and the pods - grow to 1,5 m! For its decorative properties, cootweed is often used in vertical gardening. 11 is double: beautiful and edible. Yes, and unsightly fences and old mesh fences successfully decorated. Especially to the soil and irrigation, this bean is undemanding, which is also important in the conditions of regularly recurring droughts of central Russia.

What you sow ...

So, I started sowing cowpea in mid-May. I soaked the seeds for a day in a damp rag (as I do with any beans and peas). Our soil is weakly acidic, very light - and I want to believe that it is fertile. By this time, it had warmed up enough - up to + 10 ... + 12 ° С, this temperature is quite enough for the growth of all legumes. The threat of frost has also passed.

I made longitudinal grooves at a distance of 20 cm, filled them with compost and sprinkled with ashes. Polila. The beans, which were swollen during the day, one by one pressed into the soil with a finger to a depth of no more than 5, see. Between the beans, left a distance of 12 — 15, see. Then she sprinkled it with earth, pressed it slightly with the back of a rake and began to wait for germination.

I made another row along the grid - in the same way. It was not watered every day: the spring stood out wet. In the previous season, beets grew at this place. And legumes just prefer to grow after root crops, cabbage, onions or cucumbers. So this condition has been met. Shoots appeared exactly a week later. Of the 40 beans, 37 rose - in my opinion, the germination is magnificent!

Two weeks later, she built a trellis between the rows, and along the fence there was a support. Of the fertilizers, I used only liquid herbal concentrates with an interval of three weeks (this is how I look after all the vegetables). It should be noted that the vigna developed more actively on an open two-row bed, however, along the fence in partial shade, the greens looked juicier. The pods were also the first to appear in the open garden bed. Beans crawled along the trellis and the fence with pleasure and, most importantly, so fast! Many empty side branches appeared, but I removed them to increase the number of pods. Irrigated about once a week in the evening by sprinkling. Once from a watering can poured with ash solution: two glasses of ash in a bucket of water (stood for a day, filtered).

Harvesting

In collecting cowpea, the main thing is not to over-harvest the crop on a bush. In the food are seven to ten days old pods. If you perederzhit, the pod will become coarse and tasteless, and the beans will be very small for eating. Only to obtain seeds, the bob is kept on a branch until fully ripe, that is, up to its maximum length, which is about 50, see. The color of the mature pod is light. With a good deal and abundant fruiting, we harvest twice a week. Regular harvesting also stimulates the setting of even more pods. Unfortunately, they are torn off, they are not stored for a long time - they wither and lose their presentation.

On the seeds

In order to get seeds, fully ripened pods are torn off, the land on the verandah is up to a characteristic rustling, then I peel the beans. I keep it in a tightly closed jar - it is advisable to choose a volume that fills it tightly with beans until the neck. In the winter, I check the bookmark for the presence of bugle-bugs (while it was done).

That's all my non-burdensome practice in growing amazing asparagus beans - cowpea.

FOR THE NOTICE

Last summer Vigna decorated my favorite ornamental vegetable bed from three sides. Planted her on a par with corn. It turned out a mutually beneficial cooperation: the flowerbed was elegant, protected from the wind, yielded both crops.

The very first pods were long, thin, light green. I boiled them in salted water 3-4 minutes, threw it back in a colander, and then roasted it with the beaten egg and spices. Family appreciated the taste!

Subsequently, I also began to cook from Vigna a useful vegetable soup, add pods to vegetable stews, and even young beans can be fried in a swift way, without boiling. For the winter I freeze several portions of pods. I cut them into the required length for me (5-8 cm), put it in a bag and send it to the freezer. Pre-boil them not necessary.

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CREATING A WIGN ON A RACK-SPAPER

Somehow it happened that the harvest of vegetables is one thing, and the beauty of the site is another.

In the first case - beds, in the second - flowers, arbors, ponds. But this is not true: you can also grow vegetables so that all the neighbors are admired and lined up for seeds!

This year I managed to make 4 rings with a diameter of 600 mm from 8 mm wire. I protected 5 rust rings with paint. I decided to plant Vigna Chinese beans.

Before planting, he soaked in warm water for a day so that germination was better.

A string of string (twine) with a diameter of 2 mm was cut into pieces of 3 length and m tied around the ring diameter at a distance of 18-20. To this ring tied a soft (annealed) wire with a diameter of 1,5-2,0 mm (see sketch) so that the center rings attached to a wooden rack length 3,5 m. In the center of the ring wire tied.

To the rack in the center with two nails attached ring with tied twine threads. He dug a hole in the depth of 50 cm for mounting the stand with a garden drill, installed a second ring in the center of the hole. I put a rack in the hole, covered it with earth (you can add gravel for strength) and rammed it. I secured the lower ring to the ground with wooden hooks (see sketch), and tied the other end of the twine from the upper ring to the lower ring.

In order not to grow weeds in the center of the lower ring, I mulched it with grass with a layer of 10 mm. Opposite the twine tied to the lower ring, beans were planted - a column was obtained. When the beans came up, I helped her curl up the twine.

After some time, it blossomed, and then pods up to 50 cm and more appeared. Oh, and it was an interesting sight! The neighbors, seeing, admired, and when the beans were ripe, they asked for seeds.

I periodically plucked long green pods, cut them into pieces of length 1 cm and frozen in the refrigerator. In winter, I cook my women (wife and mother-in-law) soup with beans.

I liked the method, next year I want to make four more rings and plant four columns of Bluekhild's asparagus curly beans. To make the columns look more beautiful in the garden, I will plant two seeds in each well.

I will be glad if someone from gardeners likes my offer. By the way, this planting method can be used when growing cucumbers, momordi and curly flowers - for crops and for beauty. Neighbors will line up for seeds!

I wish all gardeners good health and success in gardening. Dare, do not be afraid to conduct various experiments and write about your successes.

Valery Nikolayevich

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VIGNA - VITAMIN DELICATES

There are more and more letters about asparagus beans, as we call vognu, and this is understandable: they are tasty, healthy and beautiful. The main thing is to choose the right variety and place on the site, and here are just a few practical tips on this matter.

I decided to share my experience of growing this crop in the North-West. Since the mid-1990s, I have been successfully growing bush asparagus beans in the open field, therefore, having bought cowpea seeds, I decided to plant them in a similar way. But the first attempts to grow cowpea in the open field fell on a bad summer of 2016 and a very bad summer of 2017. As a result, at an extremely low germination rate, frail lashes grew, I did not even wait for flowers. But I didn't want to give up this culture, and I decided to plant the cowpea in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

I planted seeds on a bed 80 cm wide, soaked for an hour in a preparation for treating seeds, in three rows every 10 cm.The germination rate in the greenhouse turned out to be one hundred percent, the vines grew very quickly, intertwining with each other, so I tied them to a twine fixed hooks in the ground, 4-5 plants in a bunch (photo!).

The harvest turned out to be amicable and abundant, and after collecting the pods from the cowpea, autumn came - the leaves turned yellow and began to fall off (photo 2).

The conclusion from this was obvious: powerful, densely planted plants need increased nutrition.

Now I fill the bed under the cowpea in the same volume as under (Nurtsy. In addition to manure humus, I add superphosphate, potassium sulfate and ash. I plant in May, depending on the weather, this happened on the 5th and 30th. I buy varieties Kalancha, Kudesnitsa, Countess - these are vines growing up to 3 m long with pods up to 60 cm in size (photo 3) Last year I bought seeds of the Chucha variety - the plant turned out to be powerful, bushy, a meter high, with very thin pods in length 15-20 cm (photo 4) Coarse fibers appear in their shell almost immediately, I stopped catching milk ripeness and collected already ripe pods - the beans turned out to be small and of obscure taste.

On well-fertilized soil, the cowpea gives two waves of harvest, and the later pods grow larger and coarser faster, striving for seed ripening (photo 5).

Cucumbers grow in the same greenhouse with cowpea (photo 6), we have automatic drip irrigation installed, so everything is watered in the cucumber mode - once every two days. In addition, two or three times a season I feed with fermented grass.

By the end of the growing season, a small amount of white mold appears on the stems and pods - I just remove these lashes, and once an episode from the series "Don't do like me" happened to pests.

GREENHOUSE CROP ROTATION

In the spring, I brought a pot of remontant strawberries into the greenhouse, which had overwintered in the basement, on which a strawberry mite soon appeared. After a while, he moved on to cucumbers and cowpea - I examined all these creatures with a 10-fold magnifying glass, it was definitely not a cucumber spider mite.

The plants were just about to bloom, and a one-time treatment with a biological product helped, but in the fall I decided to burn a sulfur stick in a greenhouse, which I had never done in my life. As a result, the stretched steel wire for the garter and the partially galvanized parts of the greenhouse frame were covered with rust.

Thanks to the cowpea, we got a certain alternation of crops in our two six-meter greenhouses.

One greenhouse is occupied with tomatoes (I moved the peppers to a garden bed under the shelter), along the edges of the tomato beds I plant early carrots, which grow until mid-July, without interfering with the tomatoes (photo 7). In the second, in addition to cowpea, cucumbers, broccoli and Brussels sprouts, I plant radishes on a cucumber garden in April.

I prepare cowpea like this: I cut it into 3-4 cm pieces, boil it in salted water and freeze it.

© Author: Irina SAMOILOVA. St. Petersburg

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VEGAN BEAN VEGETABLES - GROWING: VIDEO

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© Author: Irina Popova, Vera Knyazev Photo: D. Chekinev

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