Irises Siberian (photo): cultivation and care
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Siberian irises - planting and care
Rainbow! This is how the name of the flower, whose history goes back thousands of years, is translated.
So the ancient Greeks called the winged messenger of Zeus and Hera, the personification and the goddess of the rainbow. Iris, or Iris, appeared from the cloud after the rain, descending to the ground along an airy arch overflowing with all the colors of the solar spectrum. On the ground, rainbow colors are scattered in very different colors.
But the wealth of shades embodied in irises is really a gift of the gods, which can not be overlooked. Hippocrates, who gave the name to a friend of all flowers, clearly did not doubt this. The founder of modern plant classification Carl Linnaeus retained this name. Subsequent botanists collected and counted all the irises of our planet, and it turned out that there were more than 200 species!
All irises are divided into two large groups according to the presence or absence of a beard on the outer petals of a flower - bearded and bare.
The majority of garden varieties belong to the bearded irises. Siberian irises are part of a group of non-dated irises. This group is the most numerous in nature.
The ancestors of varieties and hybrids of the class of Siberian irises are 3 species: Siberian iris (Iris sibirica), blood-red iris (Iris sanguinea, and Oriental - its outdated name), horned-leaved iris (Iris typhifolia).
Reference by topic: Siberian irises: planting and care
The passion for change, freshness of impressions and the opening of new horizons forced breeders to turn in the direction of the “Siberians”. Refined sophistication is what captivates them at first sight. It manifests itself in the form of a flower, and in the lines of narrow, “light” leaves, and in the silhouette of a bush. These features introduce an intriguing element of novelty into what we have been familiar with for so long.
Multiply the charm and grace of this flower by the already known potential of the color palette, the endurance of the “Siberians” and their requirements according to our climate, and as a result - simpler rules of care, and it will become clear why the Siberian irises in our gardens have a truly bright future.
The flowers of Siberian irises are smaller but compared with the flowers of traditional garden irises, but there are more of them on the bush.
In addition, smaller petals are easier to resist and preserve beauty in the rain and wind.
It is interesting that in some varieties the buds bloom at once, resembling lush bouquets, in others - sequentially, prolonging the flowering time. For different purposes in design, you need both.
Longer than other blossom varieties with a branching peduncle, including almost white, with a lavender shade of iris Hohe Warte. From domestic varieties record long blooms Leader of Altai.
Lovely Siberian irises with birch trees in the background our eyes are ready to perceive as part of their native nature, so we can easily find a corner for them in the garden, while in the south the exotic exotic group of bearded irises pretend to the reception and the main places.
The delightful shape of the flower, the wonderful shades and the pattern on the petals require a correct feed. Therefore, when choosing varieties for a garden, it is important to evaluate not only the details of the flower, but also how the plant demonstrates its beauty. Flowers can float a flock, towering above the leaves, or be flush with them. And it's really hard to appreciate their beauty from a distance, if they do not reach the tips of the leaves, but hide between them. At the same time in the container such irises will be interesting. In a word, choose: at your disposal plants with the height of peduncles from 40 to 160 cm!
See also: Irises in questions and answers
Irises: landscape decoration
On the back of the mixborder or in the center of the island flower beds are good varieties with peduncles higher than a meter and a classic flower shape with petals bent down. One of the highest grades (1,6 m) is navy with wide petals 'Hohenflug'. In the foreground, varieties with an open, cup-shaped flower win.
By the pond. Narrow graceful leaves harmoniously merge with the surrounding coastal vegetation, and flowers, as if flew from the grass of a moth, are picturesquely reflected in the water. (Plants are planted on the shore, but not in water!)
Groups on the lawn. If you do not cut the stems after flowering, spectacular boxes with seeds will give the picturesque curtains additional interest in the second half of summer and autumn. To make it easier to take care of the irises, protect the planting from the lawn with a ribbon and tape the ground around the bushes.
In large rockeries, group planting is possible; in small rockeries, individual specimens are used as vertical accents or miniature varieties are planted Baby Sister, Summerchase Advent, Annick, My Little Sunshine. Miniature varieties of Siberian irises in a few years can suddenly gain height. To prevent this, they should be divided more often.
The choice of a place for planting Siberian irises
Choose the sunniest place. These irises do not have high requirements for drainage and can grow even in moist areas with a high level of groundwater, unsuitable for bearded irises. The soil should be fertile, moderately moist. free of weeds. Best of all are light loams rich in humus.
See also: Irises are bearded and not bearded: planting, care and varieties
Planting irises
It is necessary to divide and replant irises in the second half of August or early spring. Before planting, dig deep into the soil and fill it with well-decomposed compost or humus. Delenki prepared for planting, pruning leaves and roots.
Leaves leave 1/3 of the length, the roots are shortened by 10-12 cm. When planting, deepen the rhizome by about 5-7 cm. This is the difference between Siberian irises and irises from the group of bearded, whose rhizome creeps on the surface. The distance between the planting holes, depending on the size of the divisions, is 30-50 cm. After planting the plants, water and mulch well. Large overgrown bushes bloom most abundantly. With age, flowering weakens, and the middle of the bush gradually dies.
When dividing the bushes, the old, dead parts of the rhizomes are removed.
Attention! Siberian irises prefer weakly acid soils, so when planting it is impossible to make lime.
Siberian irises: care
In the spring, feed the irises with a full complex mineral fertilizer. While young plants do not get stronger after planting, good watering is needed. Over time, irises grow, forming a powerful root system, and are easier to cope with a lack of moisture. Therefore, adult bushes can be watered less often, but in drought irrigation is mandatory. It is better to water infrequently, but abundantly, soaking the soil to the full depth of the roots.
When forming flower stalks or after flowering, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. In the late autumn, after the onset of frosts (or at the very beginning of spring), the old leaves are cut to a height of 15 cm. In order not to reduce the winter hardiness of shrubs that have lost their natural shelter, it is useful to cover the plants for the winter. Mulching with a well-matured humus or compost layer of about 2 cm in spring and after flowering can replace mineral top dressing.
© Author: I.Volkovska
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties
- Wintering irises in an apartment
- How I grow bearded irises on the site - planting and dividing
- Irises are bearded and not bearded: planting, care and varieties
- Irises Siberian (photo): cultivation and care
- Dwarf bearded irises (photo) planting and care: questions and answers
- Irises in questions and answers: growing, planting and care
- Siberian irises: varieties, planting and care
- German Iris (photo) - planting and care
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These beautiful flowers come in a variety of colors and shapes, so they bear the name of the rainbow goddess, blossom from the end of May for a month and a half. Irises are also attracted by the fact that they remain fresh for a long time after cutting.
Transplant-every four years
I propagate irises by dividing rhizomes. I plant them in groups and rows two weeks after the end of flowering on a sunny, not strongly moistened, sheltered place from the wind, to such a depth that the rhizomes are covered with a thin soil trench. After planting the plants must water. You can propagate them and seeds.
I transplant irises every four years, otherwise they cease to bloom, as the soil is depleted, and the rhizomes grow and intertwine with each other.
Care
As soon as the soil is thawed, I uncover rhizomes of irises. I shovel the earth, release them for the sun's rays, so that they grow better.
Fertilizers I use only as needed. A week before planting I apply fertilizer to the soil with a minimum content of nitrogen.
Periodically I loosen the soil near these plants, remove the weeds, water in the evening and the stages of budding regularly, and the rest of the time-as the soil dries up, while wiping out the wilted flowers.
In October, I trim the leaves with a cone at a height of 10 cm and sprinkle the rhizome with the ground.
Diseases and pests
The most dangerous iris disease is rot. If the plant already has such a disease, then the affected specimen must be destroyed, and the remaining bushes should be watered under the root with a 2% solution of baseazole.
No less dangerous for irises is another disease - heterosporosis, when brown spots appear on the leaves of plants, and then they completely turn brown. In this case, you need to cut off all the leaves and burn.
Irises are more resistant to pests than to diseases. The most common enemies are gladiolus thrips. In this case, the leaves turn brown and dry out. In this case, I treat the plants with Imidor (3 ml per 10 liters of water), spending 1 liter per 8 square meters. m.
If suddenly there are slugs, I spread out the leaves of burdock between the irises as a bait, and then I collect them and destroy them together with the pests.
The value of iris lies in the fact that it is used not only as a garden ornament, but also in medicine and perfumery. Essential iris oil, obtained from roots, goes to the production of perfume products. Drugs of rhizomes of many types of iris have an expectorant, laxative and vomiting action.
Iris is a charming flower that pleases not only with its long flowering and its wide application, but also attracts with its unpretentiousness. Exquisite large flowers with a pleasant smell evoke admiration, amaze with the beauty of their petals. Even when they fade, they decorate the garden with their beautiful foliage.
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For a long time there are irises in my flower garden, they have grown and not so abundantly blossom. I wanted to sit down, but I was afraid to hurt. The neighbor suggested how to divide them. The bush is excavated carefully with the help of narrow forks. cut the rhizome with a sharp clean knife. Do not mulch, each such a delenka should be at least one year old link and a fan of leaves. Leaves and roots during planting shorten to 10 cm. After planting the rhizome, be sure to check that it should get out of the ground a little.
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Plant irises correctly
For a long time it was not possible to achieve from the irises of the luxuriant flowering.
The mistake was that I planted them in a flower bed among other flowers, while they needed different conditions. Now they grow on my separate bed and are pleased with the abundant flowering. And for this it is important to have time to prepare the soil and plant the plants in August, before the beginning of September.
In the flower bed, where the irises will grow, I put in the rotted compost, bucket of sifted ash, 2 glass of double superphosphate and 2 buckets of sand. Then I dig the soil. Before planting, I shorten the leaves to 1 / 3, and cut the cut on the rhizome with ashes. "Delenki" is good for several days to dry in a dry shade. For successful flowering of irises, you need to correctly arrange them. I plant staggered in the 3 series at an interval of 30 cm, while the rhizome must look to the south, so it warms up better.
For each plant I prepare a hill: I dig a small hole and pour a glass of sand into it to make the flower large. The rhizome itself is located horizontally on the mound, and I gradually lower the roots down from the hill and fall asleep on the ground. On top of the rhizome I press the hairpin with a bent wire for better rooting. If the iris is not pinned, then from the wind it can collapse on its side. I clean the wire at the end of September.
The rhizome of iris should always be exposed to the sun's rays. For the winter I plant it with earth, but as soon as the snow comes down, I shovel the earth, otherwise the plant will rot. In the first year after planting irises it is desirable not only to hill, but also to cover with nonwoven material.