Growing Pears: 6 Tree Care Rules
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How to grow a pear - rules and advice
Residents most valued by summer residents are those that are easier to grow. This is normal and 
understandably. Only here there are such exceptions, when simplicity goes to the detriment of taste. Do not believe me? Then read about the pears.
Speaking about this culture, we must first remember that it has a strong relationship between frost resistance and fruit taste: the better the tree resists the cold (and therefore the easier it is to grow), the less sweet the harvest will be. Therefore, the majority of gardeners grown in our gardens are called compote, in the sense that there is a can from the jar, but you do not want to eat fresh.
Basically it's varieties Topic and Fields, they grow in the form of a stem and easily yield a plentiful harvest. If you want more quality pears to taste, you will need considerable effort even to grow modern zoned varieties. Especially in areas with an unstable climate. But all the difficulties can be successfully overcome if you strictly observe only a few rules.
Initial pruning of pears
Pear seedlings are better to buy with a closed root system, since the roots of them are pivotal, and there are few suction hairs remaining when digging in nurseries. Aboveground part of the seedlings I always cut off considerably so that it corresponds to the volume of the surviving roots.
More than once to me gardeners asked the same question: why leaves at a young pear in the summer turn black?
Most often this is precisely due to the fact that the core root can not cope with the nutrition of new growing leaves, and even with good care and watering. Especially blackening is manifested in the heat of young plants that have not yet entered fruiting. In such cases, it is desirable to pritenit pear, regularly watered, but the effect may be insufficient. But if you do nothing at all, it all ends in poorly maturing shoots and damage to their frost in winter, with the subsequent death of branches or the whole plant.
Reference by topic: Forming pruning of pear trees on different types of rootstocks - Part 1 и Part 2
Sour soil for pear tree
A pear can develop well only on acidic and slightly acidic soils. In my country house, the soil is slightly alkaline (the main weed growing in my garden is bindweed, this confirms). Therefore, in addition to the usual phosphate and potassium fertilizers, as well as organics, when landing, I always always add a “long-playing” oxidizing agent - sulfur (a pound, and sometimes a kilogram) to the landing pit.
And every spring I spend "electric" watering: I dilute in a bucket of water 1 st. l. sulfuric acid for accumulators and poured under each tree.
I do not bring ash and alkaline top dressing under a pear. But in the spring I scatter 50-60 g of ammonium nitrate into the watering groove, which, together with the water, will go to the roots. In the fall, I bring potash and phosphate fertilizers into pits made with crowbar in wet soil to a depth of 30-40 cm - also within the watering groove.
Reference by topic: Pear planting and care, selection of varieties
Pear's whitewash - solution recipe
Growing a pear in a stencil form, like an apple tree, is difficult, so I make stannous shrubs and nuts or sham formation, but with limited growth. To reduce the damage to the trunks in winter, I necessarily bleed them and the main branches in late autumn.
I make in the bucket a mixture of lime, copper sulfate, carpentry glue, birch tar (to scare off rodents), powder of red hot pepper (from aphids) and add the ampoule of any armored insecticide in the store to the bucket. I distribute everything with hot water and get a green-blue creamy-like liquid, which persists on the tree for a whole year and protects against pests and diseases. The shabby plant is wrapped in several layers with a non-woven covering material and tied with twine. From the northern side of the tree I install inverted empty barrels from under the water, so that there is protection from the frosty wind and snow retention (see photo).
Cross-pollination of a pear
Blossoms the pear before the apple tree, so the probability of its color falling under recurrent frosts is high. In addition, there are still few insect pollinators at that time, so I try to spray flowers with fruit preparations or simply with a solution of honey. For a long time I was convinced that for good fruiting it is necessary to have in the garden at least 2-3 pear trees for cross pollination.
Pruning damaged branches in the summer, when it is clearly visible which of them are not viable. It should always be remembered that the more wood a tree has, the stronger the ability to withstand various unfavorable factors.
Watering pears
Watering a pear requires considerable. This should immediately take into account those gardeners who live in regions where natural precipitation is not enough. Here we have a steppe zone, it is clear that the "heavenly" moisture is stiff, so in the hot time I try to sprinkle and refresh even the branches. In my opinion, the beginning of the fruiting of the pear coincides with the period when its root reaches the aquifer (at my dacha it is located at a depth of 1,5-2 m).
In other words, the tree begins to supply itself well with moisture only for 5-7-th year, and wait for the fruit before this time is not worth it.
If the plant began to bear fruit, in general, its resistance to unfavorable factors increases, and up to this time only constant cares about it give a chance for its growth and the receipt of tasty fruits in the future.
I water the trees at least twice a month, soaking the soil on 50-70, see there is an uncomplicated proportion for determining the required amount of water. If we pour the 1 bucket on 1 square. m, then soak the soil for 10 cm, and after a day all moisture evaporates. If we pour 2 buckets on 1 sq. M. m, the soil will get wet already at 20 cm, and the moisture will evaporate after two days. What happens? To reach the "root" of the soil, the pear needs at least 5-7 buckets for 1 sq. M. m of the range tree. Naturally, water should be poured into the watering groove, and not on a flat surface.
See also: Vaccination of pears-types of vaccinations, explanations for aspiring gardeners, photo
Protective rye
For loosening the soil, I plant rye under a pear in July. By October it grows well, I cut it and leave it here as mulch, and at the same time and for warming the roots for the winter. The very dying roots of cereals loosen the ground and create a favorable air regime in the ground. My summer cottage has a summer pear KrasulyaAutumn -Lemon and three winter trees: Myth, Krasnobokaya and Decembrinka.
See also: Rye as siderat
The first fruit annually, and the rest are more finicky, please me irregularly. Basically, the fruits they have are in the lower part of the crown. I also had a very tasty Augustow pear, but, unfortunately, I could not cope with its cultivation. Every year it froze heavily, and despite all my tricks, I did not wait for fruiting, and it had to be removed.
© Sergey Mamontov Omsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Choose a pear variety (photo and description)
- Growing Pears: 6 Tree Care Rules
- Pear of "Cure" variety planting and leaving and why I will advise
- Planting care and breeding pears - choose varieties
- Growing pears in the Pskov region
- To the pear gave fruit earlier
- Pear (photo) description of planting and care: from the seedlings to the tree
- Ural varieties of pears - expert reviews, name and description
- Crop garden in the garden - planting and care
- Pear: 7 secrets on how to speed up fruiting - advice from agricultural sciences
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In the spring I do the thinning of the crown, I update the trimming of the trunks to protect the bark from sunburn.
For spraying during the period of kidney swelling and after flowering, I use a solution of a microbiological preparation with the addition of liquid soap. Also in the spring I spend processing the entire garden with a solution of copper sulfate - from scab.
In May, I water the trees profusely, and in June I feed them with fermented slurry, diluted with water 1: 10. I treat the pear and green fertilizer: I put in a 100-liter barrel a loaf of black bread (to speed up fermentation), wormwood, celandine, nettles, finely chopped cherry twigs and mountain ash (to scare off pests) and pour it all with water. After harvesting (in September) I do pre-winter water-recharge irrigation and shorten the branches of annual growth by 1 / 2 of their length.
Once every two years (also in autumn), under pears in the radius of the crown I lay 1 bucket of dolomite flour with the addition of 1 liter of ash - the fruits of this become sweeter, and the trees are less sick.
For the winter, the trunks again whiten and cover with lapnikom for protection from rodents.
My pears delight the eye with magnificent flowering, and in late summer and autumn - an abundance of fruits. And I wish Zoya Ivanovna not to give up and fight to the last - your pear will still please you!
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Pear of our breeder A.M. Lukashov Olya and Theme with large fruits, some have to be cut in order to put them in the jar (make compotes). Previously, there were no allowances for summer residents, we cut the pear as much as God put it on the soul. But in the 1990-s watched the transfer for the summer residents, which was led by Professor PN. Popov.
He showed in the drawings what to do, and we brought it to life! Later we were presented with a book by this professor, there were the words: “Nobody knows how many years a pear lives”, and in the photo there is a tree with thick bark and an indication of how to remove it. We laid canvases around the pear and peeled the bark to cadmium - from the bottom to the branches, we cleaned the lower branches too. The view was creepy! The neighbors decided that someone screwed us up. I had to explain that we are treating the tree like that, no need to worry.
So, under the bark was a lot of larvae and worms, they can not be taken out by any chemicals (through the bark), so the bark needs to be burned. And by autumn, a new even crust! Even from the strong wind, we broke the lower thick branch. The wound was very deep, they beat it with a broken brick and covered it with clay. Trees grow well and bear fruit.
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To get a good harvest of pears, in the spring, first of all, remove all damaged branches and shoots of the tree, conduct preventive measures against pests, whitewash the trunk and loosen the soil around it.
In summer, when the fruits are actively growing, pearing requires abundant watering - at least 30 liters of water under a tree. If the summer is dry, we also carry out sprinkling.
Of course, a growing tree needs top dressing. We do the first feeding in early spring - 1 g of urea per 100 liters of water (this is for one tree).
2-th top dressing is carried out in mid-May. We use the full organomine-
Organic fertilizer for fruit trees. Consumption and watering - according to the instructions.
3-th feeding is done in June-July, we will focus on the degree of fruit development. Spray the tree with any nitrogen fertilizer.
4th feeding - in September. For a 10-liter bucket of water we take 20 g of potassium fertilizer and 40 g of superphosphate. Watering on 1-2 trees.
We harvest the pears as we mature. On our pear, 5 varieties are cultivated with different maturation periods. We collect winter varieties slightly under-ridden and put them in vegetable boxes, where they are dispensed.
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Five years ago I planted a two-year-old seedling (the name of the variety, alas, has already forgotten).
In the first winter, its top frosted, and in the spring lateral branches started to branch. In a year the pear has already pleased me with two small fruits. And then strangeness began.
The tree seems to be developing, but more like a bush the size of a well-grown currant.
Fertility for a long time refused and only in the past season gave me six fruits. I understand that something is wrong with her, but I do not understand what she does not like. Of course, if any of the readers can also answer me and explain what to do with such a pear, I will be only grateful.
Irina
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Last spring, I could not get out to the dacha, and the pear stood for a very long time under the snow. The roots were wet, the tree blossomed late, and there was little fruit. How to help her in the spring after a difficult last season?
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In a situation where the roots of fruit trees rot, help must be provided in the same year, without waiting for the death of the plant. Priority measures: drain, trim the crown, treat stimulants. Depending on the depth of groundwater, the roots may be at their level, so drainage is simply necessary. A large volume of the above-ground part of the tree, in comparison with the underground one, must be settled by trimming the greater part of the crown (including the conductor). Treat the pear with growth stimulants about 3 times a season. If the root system is badly damaged, plant the 2-3 stock at the base of the trunk of the pear (rootstocks), and then you can plant the main trunk to them.
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There is an opinion that a bacterial burn affects only young pears, but this is not the case (it should be noted that this apple is susceptible to this disease). The development and course of the disease depend on the state of the soil: organic soil and nitrogen fertilizing increase the development of the burn, and on poor lands, trees tolerate this attack more easily. The burn spreads most quickly in a hot, humid summer and falls into a dormant state at negative temperatures.
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When I saw that the leaves of my pears, which I cherished so much, began to become charred around the edges, I thought that it was just from the heat. But then, when they blackened completely, and even the twigs began to ache, I realized that it was time to save the trees. Only how? I began to look on the Internet, but they all say that this is a bacterial burn and can not help anything, we need to cut the trees.
I'm in a panic. And then at a meeting in gardening I talked with one man, and he advised me to buy an ampoule with some strong antibiotic in a pharmacy, dilute its contents in 5 liters of water and treat it with a crown solution and the ground under the trees. I was very surprised: to treat trees as people? But there was no way out - and so disappear. Well, I think it wasn’t.
I bought an ampoule and prepared a solution. Only I took not 5, but 2 l, because my pears are still small, only the first year as fruit began. Treated the trees, and even made them through the bark on the injection from the syringe.
Two weeks later, I repeated and cut off all the blackened leaves.
The following year, in the spring again conducted the same operation. And in that pear season my beloved stood clean and healthy! Since then, ampoules with antibiotics have always been in the shed where the garden implements are stored.