Planting carrots in the open ground
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Planting and caring for carrots in the open ground
Correct predecessors for carrots
It is desirable to plant carrots after onions, cabbage, early potatoes and beets and syderates sown after them (phacelia, mustard, winter rye). For early carrots, mulch from the bed is better to clean in the spring. Otherwise, the shrouded land will warm up significantly longer, the sowing period will have to be postponed, the seeds will rise longer.
Late varieties can be sown directly under the sideral mulch, when it dries and the soil under it warms up. For mulch use and humus. Manure, so that the root does not branch, is introduced no later than two years before sowing carrots.
Planting carrots: you need on time
Carrots are a cold-resistant crop: they begin spring sowing when the soil at a depth of 5-7 cm is warmed up to 4-5 ° (usually in mid-April). Summer carrots are sown in the second decade of June.
More often, carrots are sown with lines (3-4 on the ridge) with an interval of 15-20 cm and the row spacing 45-60 cm. The furrows make 1,5-2 cm deep and fall asleep with humus or sand. When sprouts appear, they are thinned, leaving gaps between 5 plants. See. If the seeds are of high quality, they are glued with flour or starch paste with an interval of 5 cm to a strip of soft, for example toilet paper. The strip is bent along so that the seeds do not fall off.
In order not to engage in thinning out shoots, truck farmers also use the nesting method of sowing. For this purpose, small round holes with a diameter of 10-15 cm and a depth of 3 cm are made on the surface of the prepared and leveled ridge. Each nest is abundantly spilled with water, several beads of double superphosphate or complex organomineral fertilizer are placed in the center, 1- 3, usually a dredged seed. The sowing is covered with a mixture of crushed coal and river sand and slightly compacted (rolled) with a hand or a plank.
See also: Planting and growing carrots
Attentive protection of carrots
Carrots must be protected from pests, peel on the soil and spring drought. Around the nests, mulch a few granules of double superphosphate or complex organo-
During the beginning of root formation, carrots are sprayed on leaves with a solution of humates (Rostok, Gumi, Gumat + 7), silicon preparations (Ecost, Narcissus, Ecogel) and extracts of mycorrhizal fungi and medicinal plants (Emistim, Floravit) with a flow rate of 30 ml on 1 sq. m. m.
Supporters of organic farming add mulch to the aisles several times a season. In the classical method of row-spacing cultivation, the tops are regularly loosened to a depth of 5 cm on light soils and 10 cm on heavy soils before closing. If the head of the carrot rises above the ground, planting should be slightly spud or mulched - in the light the root crop turns green and becomes tasteless.
Thinning carrots
Rows of carrots are thinned twice - one and a half and three weeks after emergence, leaving the distance between adjacent plants 2-3 cm and 5 cm, respectively. It is better to do it in the morning. After that, the garden is watered and sprinkled with ground hot red pepper to drown out the carrot smell, which attracts the leaflet and carrot fly. With the same purpose on the perimeter of the carrot beds put onions and marigolds rejected.
Watering carrots: in moderation
Young carrots should be watered abundantly, but rarely. When the moisture is low, the roots grow small. If it permeates only the surface layer of the soil, the carrot is obtained horned. Therefore, for the evenness of watering and saving water, especially in the southern regions of the country, use drip lines. They are laid simultaneously with sowing seeds to a depth of 5 cm. At the height of summer carrots are watered in the weather, not allowing the soil to dry out. At the end of the season, watering is stopped, otherwise many root roots will grow on root crops and the yield turns "hairy".
Ogorodniki noticed that in our country grows carrots of sortotypes Shantene (conical root crops) and Nantecaya (long root crops of conical shape - Anastasia, Riga, Samson, Nayarit, Baltimore, Bangor, Samanthaa).
See also: How to grow carrots - tips for a gardener
Cultivation of carrots: a note for the gardener
Carrot - slow-witted: emerges on the 14-21st day. This is due to the resinous essential substances contained in the seed coat. But if some gardeners prefer the natural course of events, others seek to help carrots grow faster.
There are several ways for this:
- seeds are placed in a gauze pouch, 2-3 times for 20 min are kept in fresh portions of hot (50 °) water, after which they are cooled in cold and dried;
- bubbling 18-20 h using an aquarium compressor in a jar with solutions of boric acid (0,01%) or growth stimulants (Gumat, Silk, Phytolife, Epin);
- the carrot seeds are wrapped in a soft cloth and buried on the bayonet bayonet in a moist soil, after 10-12 days, the swollen seeds are caked, powdered with food starch, gently unfolded into grooves with an interval of 3-4 cm and sprinkled with sand or compost;
- tinder between dry hands, then soaked in cold water for a day (kept in the refrigerator or on an unheated porch), periodically renewing the water;
- withstand 6 h in cold water, and then 2-4 h in the infusion of wood ash (1 sterile spoon on 1 L of water).
Reference by topic: Carrot seeding to increase yield. Seeding carrots with radish.
When choosing carrots, remember: the richer the variety or the hybrid, the shorter and smaller the root crop.
The earliest harvest yields varietal carrots of Parisian carotel with round short root crops.
Carrot sortotype Flaccus with conical blunt-ended cylindrical root crops - the latest, but also the most productive.
Carrots that are stored for a long time
Not all varieties and hybrids of carrots can be stored for a long time in ordinary cellars and cellars.
Varieties and hybrids for long winter storage
Among the suitable for winter storage can be identified as follows:
- medium-late - Anastasia, Aristo, Askania, Basel, Baltimore, Callisto, Canada, Concerto, Red Boyar, Nigel, Nanko, Nantindo, Narbonne, Nectar, Nerak, Sirkana, Flam, Shantane red core;
- later - Vita longa, Kamaran, Karlen, Karotan, Maestro, Feria.
Choice of land and soil
Carrots are best placed in an open sunny place with a good purity. It gives root crops of higher commercial quality on sandy loamy and easily loamy sod-podzolic soils. On heavy loam sharply reduced the properties of carrots because of the large number of branched roots.
Predecessors and neighbors
Good predecessors for carrots are cucumbers, early potatoes, tomatoes, green cultures. But it is best to post it after
onions and onions. Seed after them, the carrot acquires immunity to white and gray rot.
Seed preparation
It is advisable to use last year's seeds for sowing, they must have a germination rate of at least. 70% They check it this way: a few seeds are rubbed between the fingers - they should smell like fresh carrots.
There are many ways to prepare seeds for sowing. Good results are given by the preparation "Epin". In its solution (2 drops on 100 ml of boiled water), the seeds are soaked for 4 hours. After drying, they are ready for sowing.
Sowing carrots
Sowing for long-term storage is carried out in the second-third decade of May. Carrots sown in the summer (up to 15 June) are kept even better, but here it is necessary to use techniques that accelerate the emergence of seedlings, since at this time it is often dry weather. Seeds must be naklunuvshimsya, and after-
sowing it is necessary to spend abundant watering, and then to cover the garden with a spon-bond.
When sowing carrots by the comb method, two grooves are made at the top of the ridge at a distance of 8 cm from each other, 1-1,5 cm deep. The bottom is sealed with the back of a metal rake, sowing is carried out, and then the seeds are covered with loose soil. The seeding rate is 0,4 g / sq. m
On a flat surface, you can apply combined crops. The most successful combination is the forcing of onions in the aisle between carrots. Suitable for these purposes is a salad. Carrot sprouts develop slowly, and these cultures can be used as food after a month. Scallops are cut with a row spacing of 45 cm. To avoid thickening, the seeds must be mixed with sifted peat, sand or salad seeds, the shoots of which will mark the rows of slowly germinating carrots. It is advisable to cover the rows with sifted peat or humus after sowing. This method prevents the appearance of a soil crust.
Particular attention should be paid to the thinning of carrots, which does not tolerate thickening. The first time is thinned at a plant height of 6-7 cm, leaving 2-3 between them. The second time-when the root of the pencil thickness is reached, 4-5 distance is left between plants. It is desirable to thin out after an abundant watering. Torn plants should be immediately removed from the bed so that their smell does not attract a carrot fly.
© Author: Alexander Vladimirovich GORNY, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Minsk
© V. LEUNOV G. Fomenko, agronomist-vegetable grower
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Varieties of carrots that do not become "horned" and why a clumsy carrot is obtained
- "Lazy" way of growing even and large carrots
- How to grow a flat carrot - not horned and not clumsy (Bryansk region)
- How to paste carrot seeds on paper tapes
- Growing colored varieties of carrots - benefits and care instructions
- Way of sowing carrots - advice and feedback about it
- Growing carrots - tips trucker (planting and care)
- Carrot beds and seed stickers - tips experienced
- Varieties of carrots for juice
- Growing carrots in the Kemerovo region - planting and care
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In order not to damage seedlings during weeding, together with the carrot seeds, every 30-40 cm, I sow in grooves of oats.
It rises rapidly, and the rows become well marked. You can safely loosen and weed the row spacing. When the carrot rises and grows slightly, I pull out the oats.
Seeds of oats for "beacons" need only a handful. Excess oats can be sown on a small loose piece of land, and in the fall to collect from the plants mature seeds.
Then the next year to buy oats for sowing on a carrot patch is no longer necessary.
In order not to thin the carrots, I add dry tea to the seeds during sowing. Seeds of carrots I first soak in the solution of the growth stimulant, then dry it. 1 / 2 a glass of dried tea brew mixed with 1 tsp. without a hunk of carrot seeds and sowing. Carrots do not grow very densely, so thinning is almost not required.
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Today, the stores offer so many varieties of carrots that it is difficult for a typical summer resident to choose what will really grow well and give a high yield on his plot.
First of all, you need to be guided by whether you want to get an early harvest for summer consumption, or are willing to wait, but to get carrots that will be perfectly stored throughout the winter.
Root crops of early ripening varieties can be pulled out 85-100 days after sowing, mid-ripening ripen 100-120 days, but late-ripening - more than 120 days.
Seed material, of course, is better to buy in specialized stores. And for better germination, seeds should be rubbed between the palms and placed for a couple of hours in the refrigerator.
Carrots like loose soil, so before planting beds you need to dig thoroughly, and then loosen. Shoots usually appear in 3 weeks. Since germination of seeds is possible at plus 5 °, carrots should be sown at the end of April.
A suitable place for sowing is a bed after tomatoes, zucchini, potatoes, cucumbers, onions and cabbage. In no case should not be planted where beans or parsley grew.
To water it is enough in a heat, as carrots concern to enough drought-resistant plants. In the neighborhood you can plant onions, garlic, tomatoes, peas.
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Of course, the way I use to grow carrots will seem very laborious.
But thanks to him, I am able to get truly gigantic root crops, and without nitrates, since I do not use any “chemistry”.
Seeds are sown not in the garden, but in the wells, which I break through with iron scrap. Their depth should be at least 50 cm.
I fill each hole with humus mixed with wood ash (1 glass per bucket). After watering, I put 2-3 seeds on the surface and slightly sprinkle with earth. I designate landing sites with pegs. Leaving is usual, only it is necessary to increase the number of waterings.
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It happened so my life that in my youth I went to the Komsomol construction site in Siberia, and so I donkey there for many years. And having retired, he moved to the Kuban. At the first moment I was absolutely delighted - what land, what sun! There will be a good harvest!
And here is a surprise! It turned out that almost all cultures here need to learn to grow differently. Oh,
it seems the simplest is carrots. In Siberia, with its short summer, it makes sense to grow only early and mid-ripening varieties. Better zoned: Altai shortened, Shantane 2461, Losinoostrovskaya.
Soils there are not too fertile, they warm up slowly. Therefore, for root crops, high beds should be prepared from autumn, laying in the base layers of finely chopped branches and dry leaves for drainage, and from above pouring 20-30 cm soil mixture with humus, adding superphosphate and potassium fertilizers.
In the spring it is necessary to remove the snow from the beds beforehand and cover them with a black film so that the earth thaws faster.
In the spring, you do not need to add fertilizers: with cool soil, but with warm air and plenty of food, plants will drive a lush tops, and root crops will grow small. It is better to feed a little potassium-phosphorus fertilizer in July.
And on a warm Kuban with the timing of sowing, you can not particularly worry. The earth warms up quickly in the spring. You can even sow seeds under the winter, and in the spring they will decide when it's time for them to rise. In a deep fertile layer, varieties with long smooth roots grow fine, juicy, sweet, with a thin core: Incomparable, Nantes 4, Abaco, Queen of Autumn.
But we have to deal with weeding much more, because the weeds grow well here!
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Leucant for leaf block
Last year, on our beautiful carrot, a leaf-block settled, which with special diligence sucked the juice from the leaves. Purchased chemicals did not bring much benefit. Completely exhausted, she already wanted to dig out all the carrots on this bed, but a wise friend advised me to spray the tops with infusion of tobacco dust. After this treatment, I finally celebrated the victory-the box was as if it had never happened! A miracle cure is prepared as follows.
Tobacco dust (700 g) must be poured 10 l of hot water (do not boil it!) And leave it under the lid for a day. Then drain the solution and add soap (10 g to 1 L). Before use, dilute with warm water (1: 5).
By the end of the summer the processed carrots did not differ in size from the one that grew in the beds that the little girl had bypassed.
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What does carrot like?
For the production of healthy roots, carrots are fed comprehensively. For 2-3 weeks before planting, when preparing the beds, add mineral fertilizers. Start with nitrogen and phosphorus, later you can add liquid potassium. If the soil is podzolic or clayey, it is useful to apply sand or peat together with the fertilizer. A good alternative is wood ash, in which there are many useful microelements and potassium.
Some gardeners do not feed during the preparation of beds, but with seeds. Liquid “glue” is cooked from flour, seeds and dissolved dressings are mixed, and all this through a syringe into grooves. And top dressing and sowing!
During the growth period of carrots, potassium, magnesium, and sodium are useful (in the spring it is useful to add about 10 g of sodium nitrate). Be careful with nitrogen: its excess destroys the root system and adversely affects the taste of the root crop. All top dressing in this period is carried out in liquid form, it is better - after rains or heavy irrigation.
Olga NAGORNOVA, town of Tiyavim
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Carrot under a roofing material
Last year I tried a new technology for planting carrots. On a sheet of roofing material, equal to the length of the bed, I marked the rows with a row spacing of 15 cm and made holes in them every 15 cm in diameter of 4 cm. I prepared a bed for carrots and in due time (for the middle band - late April) laid on top of the roofing material. I put it in the holes along the granular seed, burrowing no more than 2 cm. Approximately 2 weeks later, strong shoots appeared. Root crops began to grow faster, as the soil under the roofing material warmed up quickly, moisture went directly to the seeds, and weeds could not interfere with the growth of carrots.
Instead of roofing material it is better to use a dark spanbond. And the distance between the holes can be done more often - every 7-10 cm.
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Carrot rules
Duration of storage of carrots for the most part depends on how much the roots are healthy initially. And to grow a strong carrot, you must follow the basic rules of its agricultural technology.
Culture is very photophilous - in the shade it grows frail, and root crops turn out to be small. But in the conditions of a sunny day and a clear cool night, carrots accumulate sugar and become especially tasty.
The soil under the carrot bed should be fertile, with a neutral environment and good drainage. In heavy soils, the root crop grows twisted. Carrots can not be waterlogged, but in drought it should provide abundant watering, otherwise it will be tasteless. Before Harvesting
watering carrots is not necessary. When thinning crops, it is important to be careful - damage to the root system at this stage of growth is fraught with the appearance of branched root crops that are poorly stored.
To get a healthy harvest, timely preventive maintenance of diseases and pest infestation should be carried out. For example, against a carrot fly it is useful to treat the soil with ground red pepper.
Before storing carrots for storage, it is necessary to clean it of the remains of the earth and keep it for a few days in a cool place. Then lay root crops obliquely, pouring dry river sand. Harvest should be stored at an air temperature of 0 to + 2 °.
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Carrots in the middle of May? Is quite real! For the early harvest of this root crop, I use a sub-winter planting. I looked once at a neighbor and already 4 year I apply it on my site.
For podzimnego sowing I use early maturing frost resistant varieties. Seeds I pickled (that is, treated with a special drug against diseases and pests). Do not soak them before planting.
I prepare the beds, as usual: I make peat or compost, dig and loosen. I certainly orient it from north to south for a better warm-up in the spring. Also I make it slightly inclined.
to avoid stagnation of meltwater.
Sowing carrots under the winter is better after the arrival of the first frost. Furts with seeds sprinkled with peat or straw. Then I cover with lapnik or spunbond,
In winter I check the planting and, if necessary, I warm the snow on them.
In the spring I remove the shelter. If the forecast promises frost, shoots for the night must be covered with a film.
The only failure with me occurred in 2013 year, when the winter was very warm and the seeds managed to germinate.
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Grow still, carrots
Many truck farmers try to dig out carrots as soon as possible.
But I hasten to warn you: if you remove the root crops in late August, you will lose up to a third of the crop! Therefore, it is better to do this at the end of September or even in early October.
For example, our neighbors garden season ends in late August. They rush to remove the vegetables, and then complain that the harvest is poorly stored. And I act differently: I postpone the harvesting of root crops until the first frost, and the carrot remains fresh until the very spring. The secret is that the root crops grow well in September. And by the beginning of October the top layer of carrots becomes denser, so it is better kept. Compared to early harvesting, vegetables are still "sitting" in the ground for a whole month in comfortable conditions, while others are already stored in a cellar and a refrigerator without nutrients.
Carrots are not afraid of light frosts. If the night temperature drops below - 2 °, cover the beds with non-woven material or branches of needles, straw. Dig root crops in dry weather, and then dry for 2-3 days in the shade and put away for storage.
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Excess work or
I grow carrots for my beloved grandchildren. He had never before planted a landing, until he noticed how grieved the granddaughter was by biting off the green top of the root crop. Then it occurred to me to lightly dip the carrots with soil so that only the tops would look out of the beds.
My friends, however, ridiculed me when I told them that I was planting a lot of land. you have nothing to do. However, later I learned that there is nothing funny about it: in root crops
necessity?
under the influence of the sun, a poisonous substance of solanine accumulates, because of which the vegetables are green. In addition, hilling protects plants from burns and overheating. Therefore, now all care for carrots consists of 4 stages: weeding, thinning, top dressing and hilling.
I heard that this technique can be replaced by mulching. The next year I will definitely try.
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How to thin out carrots?
Carrots try to weed and thin out in cloudy weather, because disturbed
plants produce a strong odor that attracts a carrot fly. If you still have to do it on a fine day, then I squeeze the bed with ground pepper. It muffs the smell of carrots. With the same purpose I immediately take away the torn plants from the bed. Table beets break for the first time, when plants form one or two real leaves. I leave only the best specimens, but if there are good ones among the remote seedlings, I transplant them to another place, for example, to potatoes.
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Seeds of carrots rise long (12-21 day), so it is important to ensure their watering. Of course, they can penetrate and dry out the upper layer of soil, but then they will perish from lack of moisture.
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I prefer to grow carrots that are well stored. Over the years of gardening, she tested many varieties, but settled on only a few domestic ones: Leander, Moscow Winter, Chance, Shantane 2461, Losinoostrovskaya 13.
I try not to thicken the crops - I thin out, not sparing the young plants, because if you leave them in cramped conditions, then diseases can not be avoided, and the harvest of carrots will not be so good. In a row, the plants should be at a distance of 2,5-3 cm from each other. I thin out when two true leaves appear. But I never do it “dry” - I surely water the beds well and wait until the water saturates the soil. And it is better to thin out in cloudy weather: it will not be too hot for you, and carrots will not crawl. All plantlets that have been removed from the garden bed should be taken away immediately so that the agile carrot fly does not smell their aroma and does not attack the remaining carrots.
Irina Bogomolova, Moscow