Greens with seedlings
Growing greenery in seedlings
Seedlings will help to get a harvest of green as early as possible and also save seeds, fertilizers and water.
The salad is mainly prepared seedlings of semi-crocheted (Azart, Emerald, Kucheryavets Odessa, Grand Rapide) and head (Iceberg, Attraction, Buyan, Whirlwind, Kado, Kolobok, Opal, Patricia, Charlie) of varieties.
For a glazed heated greenhouse, sowing is carried out at the end of March, a film greenhouse and a greenhouse - in the first decade of April, for open ground - a week later. In the south, sowing dates are shifted by one and a half weeks ago, in the northern regions and Siberia - by the same interval, but forward.
When growing leaf lettuce with picking, the seeds are sown in rows directly on the greenhouse (4-6 g / m3) or in a standard box (according to the 5 × 6 cm pattern). Seedlings, on the other hand, dive into separate 3 cm diameter cups filled with a nutrient mixture of peat, sod land, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 3: 1: 6. Picking 8-4-day-old plants in pots 4 × XNUMX cm in size accelerates the collection of greenery.
Reference by topic: Growing sprouts - problems and diseases
It is more expedient to sow the rolled, half-rolled varieties and romaine individually in cassettes with a 2,5 × 2,5 cm cell. To seed the seeds for 2-3 days, put the cassettes in a warm (21 -22 °), moist (85-90%) place . Seedlings are tempered for a week (kept at daytime at an air temperature of about 16 °, at night 10 °), dive into cassettes with a mesh size of 5 × 5 cm and kept at daytime at a temperature of about 18 °, at night 15 °.
A standard 25-30-day-old seedling with 3-4 real leaves is planted in open ground in the second decade of April according to the pattern: early leafy - 15 × 15 cm, mid-season 25 × 20 cm, rolled in three lines after 30 cm with a row spacing of 70 cm, romaine - in two lines after 45 cm with a row spacing of 60 cm. It is important that the root neck of the plant is flush with the soil surface, otherwise weak and deformed heads will form.
Salad will be ready for harvesting a week earlier, if it is grown without picking: seeds are sown in 2-3 pcs. in pots or cassettes 5 × 5 cm in size, leave the strongest of the seedlings, and the rest removed.
Sowing leaf parsley on seedlings spend from the middle of March to the beginning of April (the age of seedlings 50-60 days). Plants will be stronger if the crocheted seeds in the gauze are put on 7-10 days in the refrigerator.
Basil are prepared from the end of March (for greenhouses) until mid-June (for beds in the garden). Seed retention in warm water accelerates their germination.
Reference by topic: Seed time
Seedlings balm, rosemary, marjoram, mint cooked in late March - mid April from cuttings cut from mother plants, wintering in the cellar or bought in a store.
Dill fennel is prepared in April, and only for obtaining seeds and early greenery of bush varieties (Buyan, Bouquet, Aligator, Mammoth, Borey). For dill use large pots, which are sown for 3-5 seeds. The soil in them is not lime, do not fill with ashes, do not overdry. Seedlings are kept in a sunny place.
Seeds of cilantro, parsley, basil and dill they are kept in warm water before sowing to remove aromatic substances, sown in cassettes or pots measuring 6 × 6 cm and sprinkled with compost.
The first crop of vitamin greens - advice and feedback from professionals
A long wait is canceled! If you choose cold-resistant plants of early ripening varieties, in May it will be possible to collect
In April, the weather is still quite changeable, especially the air temperature fluctuates day and night. But the soil is saturated with moisture and is already quite warm. What vegetable plants can meet such difficult conditions? Not all, but "extremals" a lot! Cool cold greens are best suited to coolness,
for example, sheet mustard, spinach, parsley, lettuce, dill, watercress. Their seeds germinate already at a temperature of 3-4 ° C and can withstand freezing to -5 ° C, and some are lower. By the way, the aforementioned green ones also refer to early maturing, which means that in May they will please the first harvest. Pleasant bonus: these hurries can be sown every 2-3 weeks - then the juicy greens will be provided until the end of the season. Tip: In April it's still quite cold, so even the most persistent needs a temporary shelter.
In a film greenhouse in April you can sow leaf lettuce of such varieties as 'Ballet' or 'Dubachek'. It even at low temperatures and insufficient lighting forms dense rosettes with crispy leaves. Celery and kohlrabi of early varieties deserve special attention. As a rule, their seeds are sown directly in open ground, but if you want to start harvesting a month earlier, it is still better to grow them through seedlings.
Cold-resistant crops include peas and beans. The latter plant only benefits from increased soil moisture - it forms more flowers and, accordingly, beans. By the way, early sowing is also good because the crop is not attacked by pests such as bean aphids and pea moth. Carrots and black-onion sown in April will also remain unharmed. The reason is simple: pests wake up at a higher temperature, which means that plants have enough time to "mature" and become unfit for laying eggs by insects.
And, of course, in April you can sow radish early varieties. By the way, it is noted that in plants of the same variety planted in April, the root crop is larger than those that were sown in May. This vegetable plant can be sown until September, the main thing is to choose the right variety, since cold-resistant in the heat shoots, and those intended for sowing do not grow in the summer at low temperatures. The same applies to salad leaves.
Rapini is a close relative of radish and turnips, which, however, does not form root crops. The food is consumed by its leaves along with petioles: they can be added to salads, soups and vegetable dishes.
Advice: it is desirable to sow the plant very densely. Cress salad is familiar only in the form of sprouts, although it can be eaten and aged. Cut plants can be as soon as they reach 8 cm in height.
Sorrel is the main ingredient in green borsch. This perennial plant in spring forms a lush rosette of sour-tasting leaves. Arugula has already become the main component of many dishes. It is better to grow a plant on fertile moist soil. Important: with insufficient watering, the leaves become unpleasantly sharp in taste.
Advice on growing early greenery
Jars can be used as mini-greenhouses. However, do not forget to lift them in good weather - condensation on the walls contributes to the emergence of fungal diseases.
To grow salad, leek and tuber fennel in the spring without a hotbed you can not do. From early June, boxes can be identified for zucchini, corn and heat-loving spicy herbs, such as basil and marjoram.
We recommend to read a very complete article on growing seedlings Part 1 и Part 2
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to prevent carrots and cabbage from cracking and rotting potatoes
- Proper use and processing of foliage in the vegetable garden and flower garden (shelter beds, compost)
- Remove the stump without uprooting - methods and means
- How to make a composition for whitewashing and whitewash trees in the country
- Harvest the harvest correctly - for long storage
- Why are seedlings sick and not growing and what they lack (table)
- When to plant seedlings: a memo table
- Garden in Kurdyumov - about the wind ...
- Compost preparation - all aspects (raw materials, humidity, etc.)
- Top-5 useful weeds for the vegetable garden
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The first spring greens are the most long-awaited and vitamin. To get a tasty sorrel early, early in the spring, even on the snow the place where it grows, is sprinkled with ashes so that the snow melts as soon as possible. After melting over the small bed, it is necessary to put a film kid on the frame. Sorrel under the film grows thicker and appears earlier.
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Since we installed the warm glazing of the loggia, I have been supplying the family with fresh herbs almost all year round. It is easiest for beginner gardeners to grow green onions. As a starting material, you can take turnip onions, or you can buy small onions <evok. The variety is not particularly important - anyone will give good greens.
The most abundant harvest of the feather is obtained if multiglossal bulbs come across, a whole bunch of leaves grows from them. When cleaning onions, I always first remove the top of the head and inspect the cut. If in the center juicy scales form several rings with a green primordium inside, then such an onion goes for distillation; if there is only one growth center, place the bulb in the pan.
As a landing capacity I use standard boxes for flowers. At the bottom I fill in the drainage and brick crumbs, then fill them with a mixture of vegetable garden and humus.
I soak the bulbs for several hours in a solution of potassium permanganate and plant them in boxes very tightly, literally fitting each other like paving stones. This way of planting is called "bridge". Bulbs should protrude from the ground by about a third. In the "pavement" I leave a few loose spots, through which I water the plantings.
The first week I keep the box in the apartment, in the warmth. When the greens touch the growth, I carry the bow to the loggia. In the cold season, the temperature there usually holds 10-13 °, for the growth of onions this is quite enough. I pour only with warm water. When the days become short, I turn on the backlight for a few hours.
Usually I "charge" a new box every 2 weeks, so I have at the same time 3 boxes: from one actively eat greens, the second grows up, the third is being prepared to replace the first one.
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Greenery with the last warmth
Closer to October, when there are still good days, I pick up carrots and beets, because these root crops are afraid of frost. But the parsnip is a frost-resistant vegetable, and it sits in my ground, as they say, to the last. I even leave a few roots in the winter to feast on them in the spring.
In the beginning of October I prepare for celery growing and root parsley. I dig them out, cut off the above-ground part, leaving 1-2 cm, and transplant in a container with a diameter of 20-25, see. After a month, I already have fresh greens on the table! The same thing I do with
several bulb onions.
To ensure that spices are always at hand, I dig out a few bushes of basil and rosemary, transplanted into small pots and put them on the windowsill.
8 mid-October I prepare the beds for podzimnego sowing. I dig them with the addition of humus and make grooves with the depth of 5 cm. I sow in them seeds of parsley, Peking cabbage, turnips, spinach, carrots, celery and cilantro. Crops fall asleep on the ground, and mulch peat from above.
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Greenery in the house
Small root vegetables of parsley, which is still early to clean, grow in the room. Dig up, I shorten the roots a little, cut off the leaves for 1-2 cm, so as not to damage the sleeping buds. After that I transplanted into pots with a diameter of at least 20 cm (can be put in wooden boxes with soil) and put on the windowsill.
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I want to share my way of harvesting greens for the winter. I do not know how to whom, but I'm tired of freezing dill just in a bag, when he then takes everything with a lump, and it's necessary to chop it off with a knife to cut ice. So I began to freeze the greens in the food film.
Dill we love the whole family, so we prepare it carefully enough. I cut it off from the bed, mine, immediately cut and spread on a towel to dry (photo 1). So it is drying with 8-12 h. Then I take food film, put dry fennel on it and wrap it in the form of "sausages" (photo 2). The edges are twisted so that nothing spills out.
In winter it is very convenient: I cut off as much as I need, straight from the film, I defrost and use it. I have not met a more convenient method yet.
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Saving greens from the heat
For several years now I have been holding a “garden on a windowsill” - I have been growing parsley, dill, spring onions, sometimes even tomatoes and bell peppers in pots and containers. My "beds" are on the sunny side, so I have to protect them from scorching rays. So that the plants do not have sunburns, from time to time I turn the pots 1 ° one by one. In addition, I cover the planting with pieces of 180 gauze, which I fasten with a clothespin-I to thin metal rods stuck into the ground. They, unlike wooden sticks, are not afraid of moisture and serve for many years. And the fixed gauze will not slip during the rotation of the container.
In hot weather, I put it on late evening to spray and sprinkle spray. At the same time, I take on the watering can only when the soil in the pots dries out on 4-5. I use only water heated in the sun and increase the watering norm by 1,5-2 times compared to other periods. Judging by the appearance of the green "pets", they feel great.