Siberian irises - growing and breeding

Siberian irises are exquisitely beautiful, few can remain indifferent to the bizarre lines of flowers, silky petals, as if painted by a mysterious artist. These irises do not freeze in the winter, can blossom luxuriantly for decades, rarely get sick.

And the emerging hybrid varieties are also pleased with the richness of the color. If the petals of natural species are bluish-lilac, then the varietal ones can be white, yellow, pink, purple, coloring can even flow from one tone to another.

Nowadays Siberian irises are at the peak of popularity. So it was four thousand years ago, when they were decorating the gardens of Egypt, the Babylonian kingdom, Assyria, Crete, Ancient Rome. Medieval

Europe also admired them, but the appearance of varietal bearded irises pushed the Siberians to the background.

And only the creation of hybrid varieties returned them to their former popularity, they again became desirable in the best gardens and parks of the world.

Siberian irises, despite their name, grow not in Siberia, but in the north of Italy, in the east of Switzerland, in the Baltic, in Western Belorussia, in the high-mountain meadows of the Caucasus and Turkey. We meet in the south of the Arkhangelsk region and in the Komi Republic. And in Siberia, iris is blood-red.

These two species became the first parents of hybrid varieties of Siberian iris. Then there were a lot of crosses, as a result, about 800 hybrid varieties were bred. Considering that the selection work has been carried out since the middle of the last century, the result is considerable.

If the wild-growing iris produces a straight flower stem bearing no more than three flowers, then among the hybrids there are varieties with branchy stems that decorate up to seven flowers, which greatly prolongs the flowering period.

The classification of hybrid Siberian irises has already appeared, based on such features as coloring, shape and size of flowers, height of peduncles and flowering period.

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Reference by topic: Irises Siberian (photo): cultivation and care

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Siberian irises: eyes, standards and fouls

The classic Siberian iris flower consists of three narrow petals, directed upwards (standards), and three broad lower ones (fouls). Near their base there is a contrasting spot - the eye. In hybrids, all the petals can be wide, and they are all directed down or up. There are varieties with double flowers or with corrugated edges of the petals. The size of the flowers varies from 5 cm to 16 cm.

A lot of work has been done by breeders and with the coloring of petals. They can be the same color, without spots or fringes: white, blue, blue, violet, cream, yellow and even pink, crimson and wine-red.

The upper and lower petals come in different tones of the same color or in different colors. For example, the upper petals are white or blue, and the lower ones are yellow, blue, pink or purple. In some varieties, the color of the petals is difficult to even describe - several colors smoothly flow into each other.

A great advantage of Siberian irises is the strength of the stems, even at a height of 70-120 cm they do not need supports. The medium-sized irises (50-70. Cm) are perhaps the most sought-after for summer residents, and in parks they often plant undersized (25-50 cm) and dwarfish (15-20 cm).

Hybrid Siberian irises differ in flowering time. There are varieties blooming in June, but most bloom in July - August. Irises planted in the shade bloom later. There are repair varieties that bloom twice a season: in spring and autumn.

Varieties of Siberian irises

Multicolored Iridium

To have an idea of ​​the beauty of hybrid irises, we grouped the most popular varieties in color and present them to your attention.

Siberian irises with white flowers:

Butterfly Fountain, Belissima, Easter CD, Snow Prince, White Pane, Forfold White, Harpswale Shah-Tez, Shirley Chois, Aeol (domestic variety).

Siberian irises with yellow flowers:

Batte End Cream, Batte End Shuga, Dane Suzy, Drimin Yellow, Isabel, Moon Silk, Sunny Springs.

Siberian irises with pink flowers

Valey of Delight, Jacks Hal, Done Walt, Mary Louise Michie, Roaring Jae-Lee, Sparking Rose, Frosted Cranberry, Hie Wave.

Siberian irises with violet, red-violet and other flowers

Ani Marie Troger, Blackburn Jubilee, Jemeykin Velvet, Jewel Crown, Indie, Lady Vanessa, Ouville Fei, Plum Frolik, Sweet Sarrander, Hubbard, Active Duty.

Siberian irises with blue flowers

Vicky Ann, Lady Of Koo-Oliti, Lilting Laura, May Love, Riverdance, Sally Carlin, Silver Edge, Super Ego, Steps In Blue, Tweed.

Blue-violet, purple Siberian irises:

Liberty Hills, Rafeld Welwit, Raflands Raun, Reprise, Saltans Ruby, Silver Edge, Super Ego, Toropyzhka (domestic variety), Trim Ze Welwit, Tylwood, White Conner Swee, High Stands, Cesare Bryz, Shirley Pope, Eduard Rigel (domestic variety).

Iridescent Siberian Irises:

Blackburn Jubilee, Beech Of Sikrets, White Emba.

Two-colored Siberian irises:

Dana Balerain Dane, Shakers Priey, Orientel Kapit, Hantis.

Where to plant Siberian irises

Since frequent transplantations of Siberian irises are laborious and undesirable, before planting, one should consider where to plant them. For some reason, it is commonly believed that they love the shadow. In fact, these irises are best blossomed in places well illuminated by the sun. After all, in nature, they are found along the fringes of the forest, in forest glades, floodplain meadows. Therefore, in the garden, you need to find a place for them, sufficiently illuminated by the sun, at least half a day.

When planting in a very sunny place, protection from burning rays can become trees and shrubs that give easy shading. In this case, irises should be planted at a distance of 2 m from them, since their roots dry out the soil.

Siberian irises develop well in moist places, but on excessively moist soils, drainage is required for their planting. They can grow in elevated dry places, only then they should be watered more often, especially during flowering. Surprisingly, these irises can grow even on a rocky hill. For such a landing, low-growth varieties are suitable.

Since the Siberian irises have strong stems, they can be planted on sites open to all winds. Shrubs with thick foliage and strong peduncles successfully resist the wind.

Neighbors for Siberian irises

In mixed flowerbeds (mixborders) Siberian irises feel great, because they originate from meadow species, where they grow together with daylilies, catchments, akanites, delphiniums and lilies. Especially good are the white and blue varieties of Siberians against the background of orange blooms.

In complex flower beds, Siberian irises can be planted in lowered places, the soil level in which is lower than the rest of the surface on 10-15, see. Due to this trickery, the ornamentation of the flower garden will intensify, as the height of the Siberian irises will visually decrease. In addition, similar plantings are very convenient for watering by the launch.

When grouping only the irises, you need to pick the varieties in such a way that they all bloom simultaneously and harmonize in color. Beautifully look irises of different shades of the same color. In this case, the plant with the most light flowers should be the highest.

A bush of Siberian iris with its green fountains of leaves looks good on the lawn. Against the background of the lawn can be formed and a group of 3-5 different varieties. They can be combined with other perennials, such as peonies, daylilies, hosts, oriental poppies.

Tip:

Siberian irises look great against the background of the lawn, but it is important to make sure that the roots of the grass do not fit into the circle of irises and do not interfere with their growth.

Planting irises along the tracks is also very effective, especially if the paths are curved. Even more attractive than the Siberians will look if they are planted in two rows, placing in the foreground of low grades.

Imagine how beautiful the composition will be with a white or blue Siberian iris against the background of the carved foliage and bright red flowers of the oriental poppy. Very impressive and such a group: dark blue Siberian iris, white-yellow peony Claire de Lun and connecting them lupine with cotton color.

Siberian irises are simply irreplaceable for decorating reservoirs. Bright large flowers, reflected in the water, will not leave anyone indifferent. Their xiphoid leaves, reminiscent of reeds, look very naturally on the shore of the pond. A high humidity of air and soil creates the most favorable conditions for the growth and development of these beautiful flowers.

Siberian irises care

Siberian hybrid irises will decorate your garden for many years if you give them a little attention. Plant in a conspicuous place, you will watch, so that they do not suffer from hunger and thirst. And when the bushes grow and roots become cramped, rejuvenate them, dividing into several parts.

So you will have new plants of Siberian irises grown by yourself.

Preparing the soil for planting Siberian irises

Before planting the soil should be prepared so that the nutrients in it are enough for Siberian irises for a long time. We remind you that in one place they can grow 12-15 years.

Start training should be with digging the earth and removing the weeds, especially the rhizomes, such as sow-bog, creeper-grass, dewlap, bindweed, horsetail, which cause irises a lot of trouble. Despite the fact that the strongly developed root system of these flowers forms a very dense sod, even in it the rhizome of weeds is taken and stitched through. If there is a lot of weed grass, you can clear a section of it with a roundup. However, it should be done one year before the flowers are planted.

Siberian irises grow best in neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 5,5-6,5). If the site is light loam and rich in humus, then the earth is the best for growing them.

Acid and heavy soils are improved with lime and sand, and peat is added to alkaline soils to increase acidity. Sandy land is the poorest. Both moisture and nutrients quickly leave it. It is not easy to adapt such a plot for growing Siberian irises, but it is possible by making 1 m² bucket clay and 2-3 buckets of nutrient compost or peat with humus.

In peaty soils, irises also grow poorly, because such areas are too waterlogged and very acidic, but there it is possible to grow Siberians by making drainage and adding lime (300-500 g / m²). Clayey soil is improved by adding a mixture of river sand during digging (10-15 kg / m²) and peat with humus or compost (1-2 buckets / m²).

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Reference by topic: Kinds and care for Siberian irises

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Buying irises, seeing in the root

Rhizomes of Siberian irises do not tolerate drying. Therefore, when they are selling, they suffer most often, especially if sellers have not taken care of them. When buying, pay attention to the packaging of planting material. The best option is the rhizomes of irises in pots, and it is more reliable if they are grown in domestic nurseries, and not in the greenhouses of Holland.

Not a bad option, if the rhizomes are placed in a plastic bag and peppered with moss-sphagnum, which retains moisture well and is also a natural antiseptic.

Often rhizomes are simply sprinkled with peat - this is not the best option, since the roots often turn out to be overdried, which is why irises do not take root well and are sick for a long time.

And of course, do not buy planting stock from random people in spontaneous markets. The chances that they will have varieties of hybrid Siberian irises are not only minimal, but we can safely say that they are zero.

Plant and transplant irises

Planting Siberian irises is possible from the second half of August to mid-September and early May. Transplant them in summer, in 2-3 weeks after flowering.

If planted later in the spring, there is a great danger of damage to the overgrown tender roots, which will cause the plant to be ill for a long time. A belated autumn landing is also a vain work. The fact is that rooting irises requires a month with positive air temperatures.

The planting of the acquired rhizomes of Siberian irises occurs as follows. In a well-digested soil, make holes of such depth that the roots do not bend when planted. Deepen the rhizomes at 5-7 cm, cover with fertile soil, compact it around planted plants and water.

In spring, with early thaws, irises can be squeezed out onto the surface. In this case, they should be duly closed in due time.

Can be planted and accelerated way. It is done this way: vertically pound the blade of the shovel to the full depth, then the shovel stem is diverted by 30-40 degrees to the side and the Siberian iris is planted in the formed gap. After that, pull out the shovel, fall asleep and compact the earth around the roots.

After watering, cover the soil around the plants with peat, compost or mown grass (layer 3-5 cm). Such mulch will protect the irises from loss of moisture in the soil. If the landing was carried out in hot weather, the snowmelt should be shaded from the scorching sun. To do this, it is enough to thrust branches into the ground in front of plants with leaves.

If the bush of iris growing in the garden should be transplanted, wait for the end of flowering. After the peduncles are cut, so that the plant in vain does not consume nutrients for seed ripening. After 2-3 weeks, the bush is excavated, the roots are cut off for a third, the leaves are planted and put on a pre-prepared place, deepening on 5-7, see.

If the iris purchased by mail, when the roots are dried, soak them for several hours in water with a growth stimulant. You can leave them in the water even at night. When planting several plants on a lawn, the distance between them is left 60-70 cm. In mixborders, irises can be planted through 40-50 cm and even through 25 cm. However, in the latter case, after 2-3, every second plant will have to be transplanted.

Watering is compulsory

For the successful cultivation of Siberian irises, high humidity of the air and soil is necessary, as in natural conditions they usually grow on wet meadows where it is damp in the spring and cool during their flowering.

However, often irrigating irises, they can do much harm. The fact is that water has a pH above 7, which means that it is likely that it will gradually alkalize the soil. If the color of the leaves becomes light green with yellowness, it is a signal that the acidity of the soil is higher than 7,5. In such a situation, the nitrogen for the plant becomes hard to reach and the foliage begins to turn yellow. To prevent this, before planting Siberian irises, sulfur should be added to the soil or the plants should be watered with an aqueous solution of ferrous sulfate (30 g per 10 L of water).

How to keep the soil under the iris cool and moist, without pouring them every day with water? This is easily achieved by mulching the soil with a layer of freshly cut grass, pine or spruce needles. Such a simple agrotechnical technique will not only benefit plants, but also save you from weeds, you will not have to deal with weeding.

Sprinkle Siberian irises are recommended early in the morning (no later than 11 hours) or in the evening. In this case, you can not moisten the petals of flowers, so that they do not lose decorativeness.

What feeding is such a flowering

In the beginning of spring, when not all snow melted, and the Siberian iris bushes are already green, it is necessary to carry out the first fertilizing with a full mineral fertilizer, scattering fertilizer around the bushes. When using an idol-universal, you will need 60-80 g for each plant. Fertilizer should be carefully padded into the soil, so that its granules do not hit the growing shoots and do not damage them.

The second top dressing for Siberians is given with the formation of buds, so that flowering is lush and long, and the flowers grow large. Fertilizer can be used as organic (compost, slurry, fermented grass), and full mineral.

For the third time, irises are fed after flowering - because they gave so much strength to bloom magnificently. This time, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used, in which nitrogen is present in minimal quantities (or better without it), for example, such as autumn Kemira universal (10-15 g / m²).

Protection of beauty

Siberian irises, unlike the bearded, are very seldom sick. Yet sometimes, especially in rainy years, the base of the leaf beams is affected by rust. The disease can be stopped by treatment of bushes with 0,4-0,5% solution of copper chloride, sold under the name "abiga peak".

Very rarely bushes of Siberian irises are affected and such a disease as scorpion: the foliage starts to burn, the ends of the leaves dry up and curl. The main means of prevention is the timely division of the bush into several parts with the subsequent transplantation to another place. For treatment of irises spray 0,6-0,8% solution of sulfur suspension. In case of severe damage, the plant is excavated and burned, and the earth is spilled with potassium permanganate, chlorine lime or formalin.

Sometimes caterpillars of butterflies: a scoop winter and kasatikovoj, overwintered in the earth, in the spring eat out the bases of flower shoots that leads to their yellowing, and at times and death. For prevention in early May, the plant and soil around it are sprayed with an 10% solution of carbophos. If caterpillars appear, they use a kinmix against them (1 ampoule per 8 L of water), after processing the plant 2-3 cm, the soil is removed, replaced with fresh and spilled with dissolved Kinmix, and after a week the spraying is repeated.

Yellowing of leaves in Siberian irises is not a disease, but a consequence of a lack of available iron. In this case, you need to spray the leaves and water the soil with iron chelate. Mulching with coniferous recession also gives good results.

It happens, settles in leaf beams gladiolus tripe. The coloring of such leaves becomes brown and they begin to dry. It helps to get rid of this pest with tobacco infusion: 400 g of tobacco dust is poured with 10 l of water, it is insisted for two days, it is filtered and, spraying the soap into the 40 solution, spray the plants. Processed twice weekly.

Another occupier is the irrigation sawfly. The insect itself is small, but its larvae reach 2 cm in length and are very voracious, often after them only central veins remain from the leaves. They get rid of them by spraying plants with insecticides - you can use the recommended kinmix above - however, if only a few plants are affected, it is easier to cut their leaves along with the caterpillars at a height of 10-12 cm and burn.

Care after flowering

Faded stems are cut off, and as low as possible. Removal of flower stalks and phosphoric-potassium top dressing will help to better laying flower buds, which means a lush blooming next year.

For successful wintering late autumn, the leaves are trimmed at a height of 12-15 cm. Do not do this too early. Green leaves store nutrients, and thus also contribute to the laying of flower buds. That is why early cuttings of leaves can lead to a weakening of flowering for the next year.

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Reference by topic: Types of irises

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Reproduction of Siberian irises

Hybrid Siberian irises are multiplied by dividing the rhizomes, since the seeds do not transmit the varietal characteristics of the plant. However, natural species can be planted with seeds. Moreover, they often pollinate themselves. This is good and bad. Well, because thanks to the self-seeding the Siberian iris disappearance does not threaten: the seeds, falling to the ground in the autumn, germinate in the spring. But in the garden, the samovous species of irises, planted with hybrid varieties, is a disadvantage, as it clogs valuable specimens with a generic offspring.

When dividing the bush, the plant is excavated, shaken off from the adhering earth and tearing the rhizome into parts. It is easiest to divide 3-4-summer irises, older and older bushes are more difficult to divide. The roots of such plants are so intertwined that they form a large dense sod, which it is impossible to break with hands. Only using a sharp shovel and knife, you can divide the old bush.

Reproduction of Siberian iris:
1 - division of the bush;
2 - preparation for landing one-run and large delenok

You can get a planting material without digging out the plants. To do this, shovel the soil from one side of the bush and separate the leaf bundle with a piece of rhizome with a shovel, sprinkle the cut with pounded charcoal, cover the bush with earth, and plant the seed in a prepared place.

The smallest landing unit should have an annual shoot with a bunch of leaves and roots. However, such delicacies blossom only in 2 years, so in this way only very valuable varieties are divided. The usual landing unit consists of 3-4 shoots with roots and leaves. The line immediately cuts the roots, leaving 5-7 cm, and the leaves on 2 / 3 their length. This is done to reduce the evaporation of moisture.

For Siberian irises, the most important thing is not to dry the rhizomes. Therefore, they are immediately planted, in an extreme case, they are instilled up before planting. If the shares are promised to someone, they are packed in moss, wrapped with plastic wrap and pierced in several places for air to reach the roots. When sending, the roots of the Siberians should not dry out, but waterlogging is also undesirable - this can lead to the development of diseases and rot. An important point is the time of division and landing. Although Siberian irises can be transplanted at any time (spring, summer, autumn), specific climatic conditions should be taken into account. I believe that it is best to plant delenki in the early fall, leaving one month without rooting for rooting.

Mulching the soil around Siberian plantings is another secret to success. You can mulch with mowed grass, pine needles, bark and even straw.

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See also: Growing irises in questions and answers

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Tip:

The most painful place of Siberian irises is their rhizomes that cannot tolerate overdrying. If you save them from drying out, then the landing will be successful.

When sowing natural species of Siberians, one should know the following. Germination seeds retain 2-4 year. You can sow them in spring and autumn. To accelerate the development of plants, they are sown in March for seedlings, and after emergence at shoots the third leaf is transplanted into the ground. Seedlings bloom for the third year.

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How to create iridium with your own hands

Iridarium is a spectacular iris garden that is easy to maintain and easy to create. Usually it consists of 80% of irises and 20% of other ornamental crops, and cereal plants are often used. Usually such a garden is small in size and consists of several varieties of irises of different colors, and for collectors this is a great opportunity to present their collection in all its glory.

Where to begin

To begin with it is necessary to be defined with grades of irises which you wish to grow on the site. Remember that varieties with a light coloring look good against a dark background and vice versa. Try to select varieties so that the flowering of some varieties smoothly passed into the flowering of the following. This will help create an iridium of continuous flowering.

The plot for this garden should be selected in a sunny place, since irises like heat and light, it is better if the playground is slightly sloped to the south, so the plants will get more heat, and consequently, the flowering will be bright and plentiful.

In natural conditions, irises are often found on rocky terrain, so they will successfully look at the foca of stones. Well emphasize the natural beauty of the plant body of water, do not necessarily dehat its large size, it will be enough to small dug in the bath.

The plot for planting the garden should be prepared in advance, preferably in a year. During this time, you will have time to work out the soil well, to remove weeds.

Landing

Irises are planted in iridaria with curtains, while there is a sufficient distance between the plants (at least 50 cm), since irises grow rapidly. Curtains are arranged asymmetrically, irises are not planted in rows. Irises are transplanted once every 3-4 years, and Siberian irises once every 8-10 years, otherwise they degenerate and cease to bloom.

Council

Irises prefer fertile soil, therefore in the spring before planting it is possible to make compost and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. If there is acid soil on the site, wood dust should be added.

The irises are planted as follows: sand is poured into the hole, the rhizome of the bearded iris is laid on top, the roots are carefully spread and covered with earth so that the upper part of the rhizome remains above the soil level. Then everything is well watered. The next watering can be carried out not earlier than in three days. Bulb irises on the contrary should be sloughed into the soil for a few centimeters and after planting the soil from above sprinkle with mulch material.

Care

All irises are very fond of warmth and light - this is the main feature of this culture. With regard to watering, there are no difficulties, the main thing is that in the budding phase the plants receive regular and sufficient watering. The main sign that it is time to water is the dryness of the soil around the root system.

From the fertilizing should be made phosphoric-potash during growth, but during flowering irises can not be fed. Organic fertilizers for fertilizing irises are not suitable.

During the growing season you will have to fight with weeds, but remember that the root system of irises is superficial and grows horizontally, so weed carefully so as not to damage the roots. In addition, do not forget to remove faded flowers, otherwise they will become a place of pests of insects.

© Elena PROKOPENKOVA, agronomist-florist, Minsk

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Beardless irises

Persistence, strength, unpretentiousness, speed of growth and extraordinary decorativeness - all these advantages are possessed by unbearded irises. These unpretentious handsome men, unfortunately, are undeservedly deprived of their attention by gardeners and designers, variety variety is more modest. But this does not mean that beardless irises do not deserve love and attention.

Beardless irises include: Siberian, Japanese, Californian, Louisiana, marsh, etc. One of the brightest representatives of beardless is Iris Siberian.

Iris siberian (Iris sibihca).

Multicolored, gentle, floating flowers surrounded by subtle linear, fan-shaped leaves amaze with their stability.

Another advantage of Siberian irises is the ability to preserve decorative fan-shaped foliage throughout the season. And finally, the indisputable advantage is abundant flowering: one plant can simultaneously open 30-40 flowers! This bouquet. Thanks to the achievements of breeders, we can grow such "bouquets" of various colors:

Contrast in Styles - plant height of about 70 cm, blooms in late May - June. The flowers are purple-violet, with white-yellow spots closer to the middle.

Kitano-seiza - a plant about 70 cm high, blooms in June. Lavender-pink flowers are semi-double, closer to mid-greenish.

Summer Revels - Blooms in June. The petals of the flowers are corrugated, the central ones are cream-yellow, and the fuselage difference between the bare-bodied irises from the bearded ones is the absence of a bright beard from the hairs on the outer lobes of the flower. Their flowers, as a rule, are smaller than those of the bearded ones, and (the outer petals) are bright yellow. Has a very pleasant honey aroma.

Ruffled Veluet - a plant about 80 cm high. The flowers are velvety, showy, dark purple, with golden touches in the center.

Butter and Sugar - plant height of about 80 cm, with delicate, large, bicolour flowers: central petals - white, fouls - yellow.

S - Snow-white flowers with yellow strokes at the base of fouls.

Sparkling Rose - plant height of 80 cm, blooms in June. Flowers are rich pink.

All Siberian irises are very fond of moisture and do not tolerate strong and long drying of soil and rhizomes, therefore, unlike the bearded, they need to be slightly deepened when planting. If the rhizomes become bare with time, they should be poured with earth, restoring the initial depth of planting.

Siberians, like all beardless irises prefer a nutritious, loamy soil with a weakly acidic or neutral reaction. They grow well on sunny places. They can also bloom in partial shade, but not so abundantly.

They grow very quickly, perfectly reproduce by dividing the rhizome. Before planting, it is necessary to trim the leaves to 2 / 3 length to balance the aboveground and underground parts of the plant and reduce evaporation.

Siberian irises are very hardy, frost-hardy and, unlike bearded, are decorative all season thanks to an unusually beautiful leaf curtain. They are not afraid of the wind, because their flowers are smaller, and the leaves are thinner.

These beautiful plants will become indispensable in the landscaping of water bodies, they look very effective in micro-collectors or against the background of trees and even as solitaires on the lawn. Do not deprive them of your attention, more actively use in the design of estates. They are capable of pleasing beauty and delight!

© Author: Anastasia KRYMOVA, Master of Green Economy

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Siberian irises - video

© Author Natalia Himina

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