Planting berries in the berry in autumn
Contents ✓
- ✓ Features of cultivation of garden strawberry
- ✓ Potential problems in the cultivation of garden strawberries
- ✓ Strawberry harvesting
- ✓ The best strawberries
- ✓ Chocolate cupcakes with strawberries
- ✓ Raspberry in the berry
- ✓ Features of care for raspberries
- ✓ Possible problems in growing raspberries
- ✓ Harvesting
- ✓ The best varieties of raspberry
- ✓ Garden blueberry
- ✓ Features of growing blueberries
- ✓ Possible problems with growing blueberries
- ✓ Harvesting blueberries
- ✓ The best blueberry varieties
We plant berry in autumn: wild strawberries and raspberries
Garden strawberries, raspberries, blueberries will please you with an abundant harvest of colorful sweet berries, if at the end of the summer they start planting these berry crops.
If you have ever tried fresh berries collected from your own plantation, then you will long remember their unusual taste and aroma, there is nothing to compare with bright boxes from the nearest supermarket. Of course, you have to work hard, choose the right sort for your region, but the result will definitely please you. Create your own collection of berry crops!
Garden strawberry
The berries of garden strawberries can be medium, very large, red or pink, even white (“White Swede”, “White Dream”). Differ in aroma and rich taste (for example pineapple). Varieties vary in maturity - early (early June), medium (July), late.
Usually, garden strawberries produce crops once a year, but there are varieties of remontant strawberries (from the French remontant - blooming again), which gives two crops
By the way, garden strawberries differ in coloring: they can be white, pink, especially in the containers look ampel forms.
Grow a few bushes on your site and enjoy juicy berries! They can be eaten fresh, frozen, dried, cooked with jam, mousse, used for making cupcakes and cakes.
Features of cultivation of garden strawberry
Plant seedlings of garden strawberries based on the climate in your area so that it has time to grow larger. A sunny area with well-drained soil is suitable. If you have heavy soil, then planting is carried out on raised beds. The most important thing is that the upper kidney (also called the heart) is at ground level. The distance between plants is 15-20 cm, between rows of 70 cm. Garden strawberries have a superficial location of roots, so the soil must be loosened, mulched, and weeds should not be overgrown. In addition, you can use the vertical method of planting - in barrels, containers, hanging planters, plants of repair varieties are planted in several tiers, such compositions not only save space, but also decorate the site.
It is not necessary to plant garden strawberries where plants from the Solanaceae family (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplants) or other berry crops, as well as melons or roses were planted.
After flowering, the plants have creeping shoots - mustaches, a young plant can be formed from them. However, in the first year of the planted young plants, the appeared mustache is better to remove, and in the second year they can already be used for reproduction. From the moment of flowering, plants need watering, especially if there is dry, hot weather. From the second year they introduce complex granular fertilizer in accordance with the instructions. Repairing varieties need to be fed more often, because they give the crop repeatedly. At the end of summer, old dried leaves are torn off, the bushes are mulched, and fir spruce branches are used for shelter for the winter.
In addition to excellent dessert taste, the aromatic berries of strawberry are a source of antioxidants, they contain a lot of useful substances: vitamin C, folic acid, B vitamins, minerals, are widely used in dietary nutrition, since they are low in calorie, they are used in cosmetology.
Potential problems in the cultivation of garden strawberries
In wet weather, the planting of garden strawberries can be affected by gray rot, so it is so important not to allow water to stagnate and stagnate. Probably the appearance of late blight, powdery mildew, brown leaves blotch.
From fungal diseases can be treated with fungicides, but after harvesting berries. Observe crop rotation, change berry planting sites, use healthy planting material that is resistant to the most common diseases. Do not let the berries rot on the beds.
Planting strawberry gardeners love to visit slugs, centipedes and snails, they will have to fight with them often, weeding, setting traps, drugs should be used in extreme cases and only after picking berries.
Reference by topic: Autumn planting of strawberries
Strawberry harvesting
The following year, after planting, harvest is harvested from young bushes, the youngest plants give the largest berries. Usually, a month after flowering, berries appear on the plants, they need to be harvested in time, so that at the beginning of the season they are not glued together by birds.
You can grow strawberries not only in the garden, but also in the container
The best strawberries
Each variety of garden strawberries has its own characteristics, which should be taken into account when selecting plants and planting on a bed. Some varieties are good for freezing berries, others are better for using fresh or preparing desserts.
•Ablion
This variety is distinguished by large sweet berries, it grows well in regions with a cool climate.
• Allstar
Variety of strawberries with large berries, dessert. It is characterized by moderate resistance to powdery mildew. Berries are great for fresh consumption.
•Camarosa
Berries conical in shape, large, painted in bright red color. Early variety. It is characterized by high yield, berries with dense pulp, well suited for making cupcakes and cakes.
• Camino Real
Early ripening variety. The bush is compact, erect. Fruits are dense, dark red, suitable for fresh consumption, for making berries in chocolate, for processing. Berries are good taste and aroma.
• Earliglow
Early variety, has a characteristic strawberry flavor. The berries are dark red, dense and sweet. Great for making jam and freezing.
• Rugen
The cultivated variety, beardless, is distinguished by long early fruit bearing and high yield. Berries are bright red color and oblong form, have a unique taste and aroma.
• Gigantella Maxim
Medium-late variety (ripening period is the second half of June). The berries are sweet, dense and very large.
• Tristar
Repair grade. The bush is compact. The berries are large, dark red. High sugar content is combined with a good taste of berries. The peculiarity of the variety is the second fruiting at the end of the summer.
Chocolate cupcakes with strawberries
- Packing 255 g chocolate-waffle cookie crushed to make 2,5 cup # 1 / 2 a glass of softened butter
- 1 a glass of whipped cream
- 340 г tile semisweet chocolate
- 1 tablespoon instant coffee
- 2 teaspoons of orange liqueur (eg. Triple Sec)
- 1 / 2 teaspoon vanilla 9 12 large berries of strawberries (strawberry) with a pedicel
- 1 glass of chopped strawberry without peduncles
Progress
1. In a large container, mix crushed cookies, softened butter until smooth. Make cupcakes - use molds for making muffins (silicone or paper, 12 pieces).
2. In a small container, lightly heat the whipped cream, remove from heat. Pieces of chocolate put in a bowl and add cream, do not mix, let stand 1 0 min. Add coffee, vanilla, orange liqueur, stir until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for 45 minutes.
3. Whisk the chocolate mixture at medium speed to make a lush mass lighter than the original. The resulting mixture should be put a spoon or through a tube for cream in the prepared cupcakes. In the center of each put strawberries twig up or sideways. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. To make a berry sauce, use strawberries crushed in a blender, and also refrigerate before use.
4. Before serving, pull out the cupcakes from the molds, lay them on a plate and top with sauce from the strawberry.
Reference by topic: Autumn planting of fruit trees - how right?
Raspberry in the berry
Most often there are red raspberry berries, although there are varieties with yellow, purple and even black fruits. And each grade has its maturity and its requirements for growing conditions.
Ordinary raspberries, red, shoots of two types - this year and the past, berries appear on the shoots of last year, although there are repair varieties that give berries in the current year. The two-year shoot after fruiting must be cut off, so it will begin to dry out. Red and yellow raspberries give abundant root shoots.
Black and violet raspberry varieties most often require support in the form of a trellis, among them there are lianoid varieties, for example, Cumberland. Shoots of some varieties are covered with thorns in whole or in part.
Usually with a bush of raspberries in good weather conditions in summer it is possible to collect up to 5 kg of berries. Red and yellow raspberries are generally well tolerated by our winters, there are proven frost-resistant varieties of European subspecies. Black raspberry is less winter hardy, more drought-resistant, so you should carefully study the varieties suitable for your region.
Features of care for raspberries
Raspberry is grown from cuttings or saplings, purchased in nurseries.
Get healthy planting material based on the natural conditions of your region. The best time to plant raspberries is autumn.
Raspberry berries are saturated with mineral substances, vitamins of group B, C, contain salicylic acid, tannins, pectin, sugars, organic acids, fiber. The use of berries increases immunity, strengthens the walls of blood vessels, they have antipyretic effect.
Between the plants leave a distance of 50 cm, and between the rows-1,5 meters. Depending on the variety, they make a support. The place for planting should be chosen sunny, with well drained soil, raspberry loves watering, so planting should be watered, but it should not be allowed to block roots or stagnant water, the soil is loosened and mulched.
Make regular feeding, taking into account the characteristics of the planted variety, the repair raspberry is fed more often. Usually spend fertilizing with a universal fertilizer in spring and autumn.
In time, spend pruning two-year-old shoots, remove shoots, weak and broken shoots, do not allow thickening of plantings. Young plants need light If the planting is not controlled, then thanks to the root offspring, raspberries will gradually capture a significant area.
Removable raspberries give a second crop - more plentiful in the fall, so it is better to have the usual varieties for summer berry picking and remont. For better growth, shoots need to be tied to a support.
It is not necessary to plant raspberries in areas where tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, aubergine have recently grown. In soil, the causative agent of such a disease as a verticillium wilt penetrating through the roots and causing the wilting of the whole plant can be preserved.
Possible problems in growing raspberries
Raspberry plantings are susceptible to numerous fungal diseases. The most common are anthracnose, powdery mildew, verti-cylindrical wilt, white spotting, and rust. The main reasons are increased humidity, thickened plantings, and infected planting material. Weed in time, remove damaged plants, treat plantings in spring and autumn with fungicides, 1% Bordeaux liquid.
Raspberry plantings are often visited by raspberry beetles, weevils, stem moth, spider mites, aphids. To combat apply vegetable infusions with the addition of green soap, in the period after harvest use chemical preparations (Fufanon, Aktiklik, Fitoverm).
Harvesting
The berries are harvested in dry weather in the morning in a comfortable wide basket, so as not to crumble the harvest. Usually the yield is given by two-year-old shoots of ordinary raspberries, after which they are cut out. Young shoots this year will yield a crop for the next year. Repair varieties after harvesting berries in late autumn are cut low to the ground.
The best varieties of raspberry
•Heritage
The sort of repair, bush medium-tall, compact, sweet berries, fragrant, dark red, medium-sized, shoots erect, not requiring support, suitable for cultivation in Central Russia.
• Glen Soy
The berries are pinkish-violet, sweet, fragrant. Ripen in the second half of July, fruiting extended to the middle of September. Shoots without spines, long, thin, requiring support. The variety is hardy and yielding. No root shoots.
•Meeker
Middle-aged variety of summer raspberries. The variety is vigorous, the berries are dark red, sweet, with a pleasant aroma. Winter hardiness of shoots is high. Fruits on two-year-old shoots.
• Pineapple Vigorova
The variety was deduced by Professor L.I. Vigorov. The height of the bush is up to 2 m, the shoots are powerful. The berries are large, round in shape, amber in color. The taste is sweet with the aroma of pineapple.
• Runaway
A variety of early maturity. The bush is weakly bushy. The berries are round-conical in shape, golden-apricot-colored, with tender sweet and sour pulp and aroma.
• Reveille
Early maturity, the berries are sweet. The plant is strong and yields high.
• Golden domes
Repair grade. Round berries, golden yellow, sweet and sour taste, with tender flesh, suitable for fresh consumption and processing.
•Bristol
The berries are black, elastic fruits, excellent taste. Ripen in the middle of July. Dessert variety. It is used fresh and processed. It is frost-resistant.
•Jewel
The berries are black, round, of good taste and quality, ripen in July. Suitable for fresh use and for making jams and pies.
• Fall gold
Repairing variety, golden yellow berries, fruiting dates - mid-August. Average winter hardiness.
• Royalty
Variety of raspberries with purple large berries of medium ripening period. Used for fresh consumption and for processing. Suitable for cultivation in Central Russia.
The recipe for a note:
Raspberry sorbet
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 glass of water
- 3 glasses of fresh raspberries
- 3-5 tablespoons of lemon juice
Progress
1. In a medium-sized bowl, mix the sugar and water. Put on the fire, stirring, heat until the sugar dissolves, bring to a boil, boil 5 min. Add raspberries, continue to boil, but reduce the heat. Boil another 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Strain through a fine sieve to separate the seeds. Add lemon juice to the resulting liquid. Cover, let cool and return to the refrigerator for 5 hours or overnight.
2. Place the resulting mass in the ice cream maker and follow the instructions to the ice cream maker. Even after freezing, the mass remains soft and creamy.
See also: Autumn Raspberry "Rushbushberry" - cultivation and care
Garden blueberry
Blueberries have a reputation for being complex in the care of berry crops. However, everything is not so problematic if you take into account some of the nuances. The plant is unpretentious, but the soil should be chosen acidic or specially prepared. There are undersized species of blueberries and tall ones.
What amazing names they have come up with for this berry: waterpot, dove, gonobobel, dumbbell, drunkard, blue grapes, sink. Blueberry garden is a branchy half-shrub, has large berries in contrast to wild-growing. Blueberry berries are highly valued as a dietary product, it is rich in vitamins PR C, A and E, contains pectin, strengthens the walls of blood vessels, normalizes the work of the digestive and heart.
Features of growing blueberries
Buy plants suitable for your region, it is better to choose seedlings in containers. Land for planting should be prepared in advance, preferably in the sun, in a place protected from the wind. Soil should be moist, well drained, nutritious, acidity level 4,5-5,5 pH.
The seedlings are planted at a distance of one and a half meters, use several different varieties, taking into account the fact that some need cross-pollination. To achieve maximum decorative effect, plant the plants along the tracks, use dwarf forms to fit into containers.
With the correct planting, the blueberry bushes do not need special care, of course, it is necessary to weed the soil from the weeds, loosen, mulch, water the planting, early in the spring to fertilize with mineral fertilizers. In the first year of planting, remove all the flowers and fruits on the plant to make the plant stronger. Stagnation of water is not tolerated, as is the drying out of the soil. The root system of blueberry is superficial, so aeration is important, the correct application of mineral fertilizers at the recommended dose. Blueberry planting does not require organic fertilizers.
Possible problems with growing blueberries
Planting blueberries can damage birds and caterpillars. Birds usually draw special nets over the plants. Caterpillars, leaf rollers, aphids, scabbards harm leaves and kidneys, use insecticides approved for use on fruit crops against them.
Of the most common diseases worth mentioning is the cancer of the stem, the drying of the branches caused by the fungus, the gray rot. Usually the affected stems are excised, and the plant is treated with fungicides after the removal of the fruit. In the case of detection of a viral mosaic, the plants are completely removed and burned.
Harvesting blueberries
The berries are harvested from July to September, depending on the variety (or two to four months after the beginning of flowering). Plants gradually become blue or dark blue, that is, they acquire a color characteristic of the variety. The overripe berry begins to fall off itself, so periodically it is necessary to check the ripeness of the berries.
See also: Blueberry fungus - planting and care
The best blueberry varieties
•Northern highbush
Blueberries northern tall, flowers are campanulate, white or pinkish. The fruits are sweetish, roundish, blue, up to 2,5 in diameter. Winter hardiness is high, recommended for colder climates. It grows on acidic, light soils.
•Southern highbush
Blueberries are tall, berries are large, sweet, fragrant. It does not require cold climatic conditions for successful growth and fruiting.
• Rabbiteye
Eshi's Blueberry, or "rabbit eye." Bushes are more drought tolerant and less demanding on soil acidity than other species. The berries are small, dark. Ripen later, usually at the end of the season.
•Lowbush
Blueberries are short, suitable for growing in regions with a cold climate, it adapts well to local conditions. It grows on very acidic soil. Fruits are light blue, roundish. The taste is sweet and sour.
The recipe for a note:
Blueberry Confiture
- 2 kg blueberries
- 3 liters of water
- 8 glasses of sugar
- 3 glass of gelatinized food starch
- 9 glasses of cold water
- 1 / 3 glass of lemon juice
Progress
1. Rinse and dry berries. In an 6-liter container, heat 3 liters of water, bring to a boil. Add 8 glasses of blueberry berries, boil, use the noise to transfer the berries to another saucepan. Report the boiling water to the remaining berries, boil.
2. In a large saucepan, mix the desired starch, sugar, add this mixture to 9 glasses of water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Add the lemon juice, continue stirring. Pour into the pan with berries, so that the liquid covers them whole.
3. Pour the jam over the sterilized jars so that there is only 2 up to the neck. Cover the covers. Then you need to put the banks sterilized 25-30 minutes. We roll up the lids and put them in a cold place for storage.
Reference by topic: Blueberry garden - growing and care
© Author: Irina Andreeva
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- What southern plants can be grown in the climate of the middle zone - advice from the agricultural sciences
- Growing watermelon in the middle lane - seedlings, watering and top dressing
- Leek and celery seedlings (Omsk region)
- Growing wild garlic - planting and care (Ivanovo region)
- Coriander seeds - growing in the open field and the benefits of the plant (Belgorod)
- Flower rejuvenated (photo) cultivation, planting, care and varieties
- Planting an orchard!
- Cultivation of southern fruits in the Urals - a miracle or not?
- Growing beans, eggplant, peppers, radishes and lettuce on a windowsill - exact instructions
- Varieties of watermelons for long-term storage and care for them in the Voronezh region
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
On summer raspberries and blackberries, tie the shoots, bend low-season varieties to the ground. Watch out for honeysuckle: remove extended flower buds in a timely manner.
Plant honeysuckle, currants and gooseberries.
Put blackcurrant cuttings in the cuticle for rooting.
Cover the garden strawberry (strawberry) plantings with litter (dry leaves), and after a week add garden soil or humus on top of them. Put-
those on a strawberry bed dry branches of raspberries or corn for snow retention.
Lay on the stratification seeds of actinidia, viburnum, hawthorn. Sow the sperm directly on the planting bed.
#
When planting berry bushes (currants, raspberries, gooseberries) I throw a handful of barley into the landing pit.
His grains in the moist soil will swell and germinate, while they will give away all the useful substances possessing
stimulating properties, berry. As a result, the immunity of plants increases, which grow and develop well. Try and you will sow barley along with berries - you will not regret!
#
I would not hurry to follow this advice! Let's think logically: you buy a seedling, which is already weakened by digging out of the nursery, transporting, planting. The plant needs a loose, humid and nutritious soil during this period. And what does it get? A competitor who will take away food and moisture from a cultivated plant.
So do not "reinvent the bicycle": fill the pit with a mixture of nutritious soil with a handful of wood ash and 15-20 g nitroammophoski, pour a bucket of water, plant the plant, pour again. And barley is better to sow an empty field, the next year dig it up with the embedding of plant remains - so you improve your site.
Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of sciences
#
Leaves, petioles, pedicels and stems of strawberry garden often amazes white spotting.
On leaves, the disease manifests itself in the form of small round spots. At first the spots are reddish-brown, then whitish with a dark red rim. On adult leaves the centers of spots gradually turn white and often drop out, which is not observed in other diseases of strawberries.
Some of the leaves are drying up. On petioles, peduncles and whiskers appear elongated spots of brown color, which eventually turn white in the center.
In the spring, spore wear is formed. and these very scattered spores also serve as a source of infection of new, young leaves. Spores can germinate without moisture at a temperature of + 8 ... + 10 ° C.
#
AUTUMN CHERNKS
Cuttings of currants and gooseberries should be planted in autumn, as these shrubs begin to grow actively early in the spring. From high-yielding, healthy shrubs I cut off strong annual shoots, remove leaves from them and cut them on cuttings (12-16 cm). From one strong shoot, you can get 2-3 high-grade cuttings with 5-6 well developed kidneys.
In black currant, in contrast to the red, the upper non-mature ends of the shoots and the lower part with weak buds are unsuitable for propagation