Planting lilac: how and when. Lilac of Victory
Contents ✓
- ✓ When to plant a lilac?
- ✓ We plant lilacs in the spring, as it is more habitual for us.
- ✓ How to help the lilacs survive, if you still had to transplant it in the spring?
- ✓ Ideal conditions for lilac and its varieties:
- ✓ How to plant a lilac?
- ✓ The size of the pit for lilac landing
- ✓ Depth of planting lilacs
- ✓ LOTS OF VICTORY!
- ✓ Lilac wins: photos of some varieties
Planting of lilac and after-care. Varieties of Lilac Victory
Have you ever seen a lilac with a flower with a diameter of 4 cm? Take the ruler, see how much it is, and be surprised - it is almost unbelievable. And how do you like inflorescences, consisting of 5 brushes?
Yes, fantastic! Such breeders S. and O. Aladin in collaboration with V. Arkhangelsky, T. Polyakova and others received in recent years and dedicated them to the 70 anniversary of the Great Victory.
They have already landed in hero cities.
But they can grow and you.
When to plant a lilac?
The most favorable term of planting for lilac in Russia is not the one you thought about, but this period is from mid-August to the end of September.
Then the above-ground part of the lilac is at rest, and for the underground part of the lilac, until winter there are still many warm days to let it take root.
As a rule, all shrubs are recommended to be transplanted already in a leafless state, but with the lilac it is the other way around - if its leaves fall, there will essentially be nothing to plant.
When landing at the optimum time, after-landing care comes down to just one operation - it is enough to water well once, and nothing more is required.
But there are situations when it is not possible to land on time. There will already have to dance with tambourines.
If it is less than a month before the onset of cold weather, after irrigation, sprinkle tree leaves with loose material - for example, leaves, shavings, peat. A large (from 20 centimeters and more) layer of mulch will not allow the soil to freeze quickly, which means it will add time to the growth of roots. But the mulch should not lie on the trunk; non-frosty weather will provoke rot of the base of the trunk. The simplest and most reliable is to put a plastic bottle cut from both ends on the barrel. But in the spring, mulch is evil, it must be removed immediately as the snow melts, otherwise it, on the contrary, will prevent the soil from warming up.
If the frost has begun, the lilac is already excavated, but not yet planted, prikopaite it obliquely in a sheltered place, as advised to do and act with the fruit seedlings. Until spring. And pits should be harvested in the fall, because the earlier in the spring it will be possible to plant the lilac, the better it will take root. The beginning of the spring planting is limited only by the ability to dig the ground, so a ready pit in terms of the size of the root system of plants and the settled soil will be very welcome.
But this can only be done with the young, adults, whatever one may say, will have to be left in place until next autumn. Or even ask for help from professionals with all the necessary skills and techniques.
See also: Lilac on the site - cultivation and care. Lilac Kolesnikova (photo of varieties)
We plant lilacs in the spring, as it is more habitual for us.
In the spring, when landing, it is categorically important to catch the buds. In the middle lane, this is difficult to do, because the lilac starts early and actively. The growth of shoots and flowering in themselves require a lot of strength, and if you make the plant root at the same time ... It is clear that none of these processes will proceed normally.
How to help the lilacs survive, if you still had to transplant it in the spring?
Flower buds will have to be removed. You can leave a couple to make sure of the grade.
When planting is mandatory treatment stimulators-immunomodulators Zircon, Epin-Extra or HB-101, then repeat once or twice with an interval of a week. If the plant tries to wither, it will have to be sprayed all summer.
During spring planting, lilacs must be regularly watered, especially in dry, hot, windy weather. But at the same time, it’s important not to “pour in”, otherwise the roots will suffocate. The soil after each watering is loosened or mulched after planting.
But no matter how hard you try, in the first summer after planting, any lilac transplanted with ACS will ache. The growth will be shorter, and the foliage and inflorescence are smaller. Transplanted roughly and not in time is sick longer. For such a lilac should be watched, watered and sprayed and in mind even to protect from wind and sun. She can not be moved like this and left, leaving her to the mercy of fate.
Where to plant a lilac?
Without taking into account the ecological requirements of lilacs, all attempts to “make beautifully” lose their meaning; the condition of the bushes and their life span depend on this.
Ideal conditions for lilac and its varieties:
- - flat area with good drainage;
- - groundwater rises no closer than 1,5 m from the surface;
- - rich, moderately moist soil, close to neutral (pH 6,6-7,5);
- - direct sun for most of the day;
- - protection from the prevailing cold winds.
On such a suitable place for all the parameters, it will perfectly develop and blossom.
In nature, it grows in the mountains on stony slopes, where the soil is meager, and in general the conditions are rather severe. But there is enough sun. And this light-loving culture can not be leveled in any way, no matter how much you take care of the lilac, planted in the shade, nothing sensible will grow. There, the lilac stretches, blooms weakly, or even does not bloom at all.
But this is not the worst. Worse if the soil is not the same. The poverty of the composition is not so dangerous, although without proper nutrition, great splendor can not be expected. Lilac cannot develop normally on very heavy structureless soils, as well as on acidic ones. Acidic soil can, of course, be neutralized before planting with lime, dolomite flour or ash, but it should be understood that this is a temporary measure, in the coming years the pH value will return to where it started. This means that it is necessary to somehow maintain the “neutrality” of the soil, but the trouble is that this can only be done in the surface layer.
And it is very bad on swampy or temporarily flooded lowland areas. Here the ordinary lilac will die very soon. Although, if you really want to plant a lilac, you can arrange it on bulk mounds (or more conveniently one common hill for several bushes). Only the slide must be large enough so that the roots do not become frozen and not soaked.
How to plant a lilac?
Distance between plants when planting
If it is necessary that the bush develops freely to the size set by nature, it will have to provide space, at least, on 2 m on each side, and preferably 3 m.
And yet the distance between lilac bushes should not be less than 1.5 m. It is convenient to plant lilacs in groups of 3-7 instances, but then between the groups themselves it is necessary to maintain a distance of about 2,5-3 m. In the hedge a distance of about 1 m is allowed.
It is better to plant small seedlings not in a permanent place, but in a school at a distance of 30-50 cm, form there, and send "to the world" already when they have reached a height of about 1 m.
The size of the pit for lilac landing
Do I need to dig a hole with a margin? In my opinion, this is superfluous. On cultivated rich soils, lilacs can be planted under the bayonet of a shovel. The lower the fertility, the more we make the pit. To poor soil without humus after construction, etc. for nutrition, add organic matter (humus, compost, bone meal) and mineral fertilizers (phosphoric and potash), and even better - wood ash, dolomite and phosphorite flour. Fresh manure and bird droppings are not suitable, as well as mineral nitrogen fertilizers -
nitrogen burns the tips of the growing roots. Absolutely light sandy soils are cobbled together with clay. All additives are thoroughly mixed with the original soil.
But sand and stones are not so bad as a heavy, claying clay. Loosen it will help neutralized peat, sheet hum, and other similar additives. And also a stone crumb. But not sand, he will not fix the situation. However, I want to caution that there is not a very big difference in the mechanical composition of the surrounding soil and the prepared substrate. Otherwise, the rainwater and meltwater will accumulate in the landing pit, which is fatal for the lilac. On very heavy clays it is better to arrange lilacs, as in close ground waters, on the mound.
Depth of planting lilacs
The depth of planting of lilacs can be different and depends on the type of planting material. As a rule, lilac seedlings are planted so that the root neck is at the level of the soil. But if a variety is grafted on an ordinary lilac seedling, it is planted so that the root neck is 2-3 cm above the surface, and the grafting site goes even higher. This is done so that as little as possible “wild” rootstock emerges, which at the lilac leaves from the underground part of the stem.
A native lilac, including a meristem, can, on the contrary, be planted a little deeper, this stimulates the development of additional roots. Well, we grew up, of course, too. A root-own lilac root is a complete planting material, but if the shoot is undesirable, then it is not necessary to deepen the seedling.
Common lilac, grafted on a lilac Hungarian or an ambulance, is short-lived, and it is recommended to translate it on its own roots, deepening the place of grafting during planting. This does not guarantee the rooting of the scion, but it may well lead to the formation of the same seed that will replace the grafted part, if anything happens to it. Fortunately, the shoots of varietal lilacs are radically different from those of the hare and Hungarian. But the age of such vaccination should not be more than three years, otherwise it will completely die.
Reference by topic: Reproduction of lilac with cuttings of the current year through inoculation
On a note:
LOTS OF VICTORY!
The birth of a new variety of lilacs is a lengthy process. Only truly enthusiastic people are able to spend not only years, but decades of their lives not only on creative, but also on difficult routine work. Before the bush blooms, many years will pass. And the most wonderful moment that you have been waiting for so long is the selection of promising hybrids. One who once plunged into a sea of flowering seedlings will never forget his emotions at the sight of the results of many years of work: excitement, delight, disappointment - all this at the same time covers you when you pass between the rows of flowering bushes created by you! Every year, everything is repeated at first: all seedlings must be described, photographed in detail from budding to the end of flowering, then many times to review the pictures, records and decide which hybrids are worthy to be called varieties.
Following the tradition laid down during the Great Patriotic War Leonid Kolesnikov, some of the new varieties are dedicated to the Great Victory, the 70 anniversary of which is celebrated this year. This is a variety Marshal Biryuzov, Marshal Konev, Marshal Malinovsky, Marshal Sokolovsky, Shinenky Modest Platochek, Victory Day, Adeline(Aladin SA, Arkhangel'skii VN, Polyakova TV, Aladina ON, Okuneva IB, Akimova SV).
By the 70 Anniversary of the Victory, new seedlings were selected from the hybrid fund (Marshal Rokossovsky, Admiral Kuznetsov, Marshal Bagramyan, Katyusha, Zarnitsa, Leningrad Symphony, The Way of Life, Ladoga, Vasily Terkin, Wait for Me), dedicated to the great national feat (Aladin SA, Polyakova TV, Aladina ON).
Low-grade varieties of Victory Day (Aladin SA, Arkhangel'skii VN, Polyakova TV, Aladina ON) are beginning to flower very young very early, flowering is open (the brush does not hide in the foliage), abundant, it starts early and lasts throughout May.
Large, heavy inflorescences on strong peduncles consist of 1-3 pairs of conical panicles, medium density. The buds are dark purple. The flowers are simple, very large (up to 3,5 cm), purple with yellow stamens shining from the inside. Corrugated with light beaks, the petals, when flowering, are stretched and twisted in a spiral. The color of the flowers is homogeneous, by the end of flowering it grows lighter, changes to lilac-violet with a fawn hue, and then the lilac resembles a battle banner burnt out in battles and long campaigns. The variety is unpretentious, resistant to adverse conditions and diseases. It works well on light fertile soils - here the flowering is brighter and lush.
Lilac Marshal Konev is very beautiful (Aladin SA, Arkhangelsky VN, Polyakova TV, Aladina ON, Okuneva IB). This is a short, rounded bush with long, sturdy peduncles, multicolored, large, broad, very dense inflorescences and open flowering. Aromatic flowers are large (up to 3 cm), terry, asymmetric. Pointed pinkish mauve with a blue tinge petals slightly burn out to bluish-lilac.
The contrast of dark pink buds with a greenish shimmer of buds and bluish-purple petals is attractive. Blossoming later and long - from mid-May to the second decade of June. The variety is unusually good in distillation. The brushes are smaller, but the petals are marvelous bluish in color with a green tint. The fringed edge of the petals gives the flowers a resemblance to an uzambar violet.
This variety is not suitable for too light, poor or heavy structureless soils - young specimens grow tight and slowly form a crown. The variety is quite resistant to diseases and pests, but at a young age it can be damaged by fusarium.
Variety Marshal Biryuzov can not be confused with the rest (Aladin SA, Arkhangelsky VN, Aladina ON, Okuneva IB, Akimova SV.). The bush is very tall, half-furcastic, with a smart and long flowering. Leaves are dark green, young shoots with anthocyanin tan. Inflorescences on strong peduncles large, consist of 3-5 pairs of pyramidal squamous panicle. Buds are elongated, large, dark purple, often greenish with a pale yellow tinge. Fragrant flowers are simple, very large, up to 3,2 cm in diameter and larger, as they become more asymmetric. They are lilac-pink and do not burn out, large stamens stand out against their background. Blooming is abundant, from the first of May to the beginning of June. The variety is resistant to unfavorable external conditions, diseases and pests, requires regular rejuvenating pruning, otherwise the inflorescence and the flowers themselves will melt.
Marshal Sokolovsky (Aladin S.A., Arkhangelsky V.N., Polyakova T.V., Okuneva I.B.) - a festive long-flowering variety. Inflorescences consist of one pair of slightly drooping pyramidal panicles. The buds are dark purple-violet, the flowers are simple, large (up to 3,2 cm), purple with light beaks, when faded, they fade slightly to ash red. The petals are concave, with two grooves, “stripes”, twist over time and become asymmetric. The variety is unpretentious and stable. It blooms in medium terms. So that the flowering does not quickly shift to the periphery of the bush, plants need early forming pruning and periodic shortening of the main axes.
Variety Marshal Malinovsky (Aladin S.A., Arkhangelsky V.N., Okuneva I.B., Aladina O.N., Akimova SV.) - a very beautiful lilac. The bushes are low, inflorescences on strong peduncles consist of one pair of very dense feast of midal brushes. The buds are bright, purple-violet with a greenish tint. Fragrant flowers are large, with a diameter of up to 3,5 cm, densely doubled, with a closed center. The variety is attractive due to the contrast of purple-lilac buds and lilac-pink with a blue tint of petals. Petals lanceolate with pointed tips, slightly fade to bluish-purple. The variety blooms late - from mid-May to the second decade of June. It is resistant to diseases and pests, adverse winter conditions and drought.
Variety Marshal Rokossovsky (12-131) (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) - original, easily distinguishable, with open plentiful flowering, tassels of an unusual shape and beautiful fragrant flowers. The bush is medium-sized, straight, with sturdy peduncles. Elegant slender inflorescences resembling tridents consist of three narrow pyramidal arranged dense panicles. The buds are dark purple with a fawn or greenish tint. The flowers are medium sized, double, asymmetrical. The petals are narrow, their bent noses cover the center of the corolla, the inner corolla with a silver tint. The variety blooms in the middle, is resistant to adverse external conditions.
In the bright, original variety Marshal Baghramyan (11-86) (Aladin SA, Aladina ON, Polyakova TV) the bush is tall, slender, flowering, early, open, plentiful. The inflorescence consists of 4 loose, lush pyramidal brushes with a drooping top. Buds are purple with a greenish tinge.
In the bright, original variety Marshal Baghramyan (11-86) (Aladin SA, Aladina ON, Polyakova TV) the bush is tall, slender, flowering, early, open, plentiful. The inflorescence consists of 4 loose, lush pyramidal brushes with a drooping top. Buds are purple with a greenish tinge.
Flowers up to 2,5 cm, terry, asymmetrical, corollas placed. The outer side of the long narrow petals is dark purple, the inner part of the corolla is light pink, almost white. The center is covered with a petal similar to a small shell. The variety is unpretentious, stable, reproduces well.
The variety Admiral Kuznetsov (12-155) (Aladins S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) turned out to be truly marine. The inflorescence consists of one pair of narrow, long, conical panicles of medium density. Violet-purple buds with a greenish tint before blooming become dark purple. The flowers are medium-sized, resistant in color, on the inside lavender with blue, like sea water, outside - dark purple. The tips bent inward are lighter, the mother-of-pearl center of the flower is covered with a “shell”. The variety is characterized by unpretentiousness and unusual color fastness. The bushes are medium sized.
Adelina lilac variety (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V., Akimova SV.) Is a beautiful variety with open flowering. The shrub is low, with wavy dark green leaves and very large inflorescences, consisting of 3-5 pairs of wide-pyramidal panicles of medium density. The buds are dark pink, in some years milky with a greenish tint. Simple flowers are very large, with a diameter of up to 4 cm, of the purest delicate lilac-pink color, they fade slightly to bluish-pink. The flowering is plentiful, early, until the end of May.
A new sort of white lilac Road of Life (14-321) (Aladin SA, Aladina ON, Polyakova TV) has its own face. Compact medium-sized shrubs with powerful shoots bloom in average time. The inflorescence consists of 2-3 large brushes. Green buds contrast with very large cream flowers (up to 4 cm and more). Petals with curved edges and a characteristic uneven furrowed surface, as a trace from wheels or runners over the torn snow.
Sort Sinenky Modest Modest Handkerchief at first glance unpretentious (Aladin SA, Polyakova TV, Okuneva IB, Akimova SV). Inflorescences on strong straight peduncles are not large, dense, consisting of 2 pairs of pyramidal brushes. Buds are dark purple, flowers simple, not large, cute, lilac-blue, slightly fading to light blue at the end of flowering. Bright yellow stamens against the background of blue petals give the flowers a similarity to forget-me-nots. But the overall impression is very pleasant. The variety is stable and unpretentious, blooms from the tenth of May to early June, multiplies well. This is a compact shrub of medium size. When reproducing with green cuttings, it is better to use cuttings with a part of last year's wood.
Ladoga (12-214) (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) is a charming variety of medium flowering time. The inflorescence consists of two large sparse conical-shaped brushes. The buds are pale lilac with light green. The flowers are simple, large (up to 3 cm). Petals outside are light purple with bright edges, turning white as they bloom. On the inside, they are bluish-purple, during mass flowering - blue, with white arrows and yellow stamens in the center of the corolla clearly visible, the white tips of the petals bend inward. The variety is very attractive with clean, transparent, cool, like calm lake water, color. Although the water in Lake Ladoga is different: less transparent and serene, more often steel, “boiling” from gale winds, formidable when a shallow breeze turns into waves up to 6 m high. Fogs spread over the lake in summer and envelop it in white nights, when evening twilight merges with morning twilight, which is reflected in the charming appearance of the variety.
Variety Leningrad Symphony (12-323) (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) - a strict, solemn, memorable lilac. Brushes on strong medium-sized peduncles are neat, dense, thick, 2-5-vertex, conical in shape. The buds are densely lilac, flowers are simple, medium-sized. The petals on the outside are rich purple, on the inside are purple with a blue center, a barely noticeable light border and light tips, bent inward, as if flickering. Against the bright background of the petals, bright yellow stamens are clearly visible. This lilac is good in bright, non-burning color and long, plentiful, open flowering. The bushes are medium-sized, straight, blooming in the middle.
This year, the road of Life, Ladoga and the Leningrad Symphony were presented to us as a gift to the hero city of Leningrad.
Katyusha (11-53) (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) - original late variety. The inflorescence consists of two pairs of very large heavy brushes with a drooping top. The buds are dark cherry, fragrant, large flowers (more than 3 cm), terry, with spaced corollas. Petals of a rounded shape and with a wavy surface are bent inward. Color iridescent: bends on the outside with chocolate tan, on the inside - lilac-violet with pearl tips, in the very center is a blue corolla. The bush is medium sized.
Variety Antoine de Saint Exupery (Aladin SA, AladinaO.N., Polyakova TV) is a memorable, refined lilac with a beautiful contrast of petals and buds. The bushes are not high, the inflorescences consist of one pair of squeezed panicles. Brushes are elongated. Buds are dark purple, terry flowers, asymmetric, with a closed center, corollas on elongated tubules. Petals are narrow, lilac-pink, bright.
A professional pilot, a famous French writer and poet, author of the famous “Little Prince” wrote: “I must participate in this war. All that I love is under threat ... I want to fight, I am forced to love this and my inner religion. ” He died in intelligence in July 44th.
Variety Normandy - Neman (Aladin S.A., Polyakova T.V., Aladina O.N.) is named after the French fighter aircraft
Squadron, whose military glory flew around the world. It is distinguished for its elegant open flowering. Inflorescences consist of one pair of heavy conical panicles. Buds are dark purple, flowers simple, large. Petals of beautiful shape, with uneven wavy surface and light tips, very attractive warm lilac-violet color, towards the end of flowering burnt to purple. Yellow stamens are clearly visible on the dark background of the petals.
Varieties Zarnitsa (13-31) (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) Bushes with open lush flowering. Brushes on sturdy peduncles, 5-7-vertex, large. The buds are bright, sunny, dark pink with a warm "mulatto" shade. The flowers are simple, medium in size, at the beginning of flowering bright, like flashes of lightning, either because of a thunderstorm, or because of a military fire. Petals on the inside with light edges and a bluish base of limbs.
The whole image of the variety Vasily Terkin (13-12) (Aladin SA, Aladina ON, Polyakova TV) reminds of the rugged, cheerful, cheerful soldier of the Great War, the beloved hero A.T. Tvardovsky. The inflorescence consists of one pair of elongated conical meters. Flowers are dense, asymmetrical, with a center, a closed petal-shell. Petals elongated, pointed, mauve with light ends. Medium-sized shrub early turns to bloom.
The variety Wait for Me (14-109) (Aladin S.A., Aladina O.N., Polyakova T.V.) is dedicated to the immortal poem of K. Simonov, which sounds like a prayer, as a guarantee of salvation, as a promise to return and wait ... Inflorescences consist of two large, equal-sized conical-shaped brushes. Brushes are very tight, dense, erect, close. The buds are lilac, double flowers, very large (up to 4 cm), with a bright, closed center. Petals elongated, with pointed tips bent inward. The corolla's limbs on the outside are saturated lilac, inside a heterogeneous, lighter color with bluish and lilac-pink tones. This grade has a lot of stamina and tenderness.
Reference by topic: Lobelia (photo) - planting and care
Lilac wins: photos of some varieties
© Authors: I. OKUNEVA O. ALADINA T. POLYAKOVA
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When creating an alley of lilacs, we were advised to plant plants. in the trench. How to do this and what is the advantage of this method?
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It is similar to the way of landing in pits. More labor-intensive, but also more effective, as more land is ennobled, which for a long time improves the quality of life of the lilac.
But do not repeat the error. Often, to increase the fertility of the soil (especially its lower layers), many people lay a large quantity of fresh manure on the bottom of the trench, and soil with nutritional supplements is covered with it.
Fresh manure, decomposing, begins to work as biofuel. We get a garden bed with bioheating. It is important to remember that for lilacs planted in autumn this is bad. Then its vegetation begins this at times, the buds blossom, while the winter hardiness of the plant decreases sharply, and in winter it can freeze. Sometimes on sites with a close occurrence of groundwater, marshy or wherever there is a "vagabond" in the spring because of a dense subsoil layer, lilacs are planted not in pits, but on artificially created hills. For this, rubble and coarse-grained sand are poured onto the surface of the earth in a layer of 10-15 cm. On it is an 50-70-centimeter layer of fertile soil, adding mineral fertilizers. A seedling is planted on this mound and its roots are covered with soil. The soil is compacted and watered. You can arrange drip irrigation. Such landings necessarily mulch.
Irina PODOSINKINA
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Lilac is very beautiful during flowering, but this period is so short-lived!
Its splendor can be prolonged if you plant different varieties of flowering varieties of common lilac - from the earliest to the latest. So you have three weeks to extend the flowering period. And you can connect the views; So, after the common lilac, the Hungarian lilac blooms, and then the Amur lilac.
The cut stalk has a hollow stalk into which water will enter. Constant humidity contributes to the appearance of diseases. And when breaking, we tear off a part of the old rhizome, which the plant no longer needs. This breakage cork, and water is not terrible for plants.
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Many summer residents acquire lilacs on the plot - a beautifully flowering and rather unpretentious shrub. It can grow well with almost no care. But if you provide him with at least minimal care, especially in the fall, the lilac will show itself next year in all its glory.
In October, it is necessary to clean lilac trunks from moss, old bark, etc. Cleaning can be done with a coarse rag or special scraper. Everything removed from the trunks must be burned. To make it easier to collect this garbage, before cleaning under a bush it is convenient to spread the film. After processing, the lilac should be supplemented with organic, best of all the manure that has been reparted, and whitewash.
Spruce circles need to be dug, but no more than 10, see. Near the root necks, the depth of digging should not exceed 6-7 cm, because the root system of the lilac is very close to the surface of the earth. Clods of soil raised during digging can not be broken. In spring it will be enough to raze them with rakes.
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Choose a site
For lilac, it is important that the soil is not acidic (or dig in 1 sq.m in advance, add 300 g of dolomite flour), fertile, well drained. From an overabundance of moisture, the most active suction roots die. The site select sunny - in the shade the plant will not be so luxuriously blossomed. Plant better on a cloudy day or evening. Prepare the pit in advance (for 1 -2 days). Because of the surface lilac root system, make it not so much deep (40-70 cm) as wide (70-100 cm). Well sip a hole (even if it rained the day before).
From place to place
If we are talking about the transplantation of an adult plant, it must first be prepared - on the eve of a plentiful flooding of the near-trunk circle. The next day cut the bush: cut some of the new shoots (from the shoot) to the ground, cut the tops (1 / 3) of the remaining (both young and old). After such preparation, the plant can be excavated. To facilitate transportation under the bush, slip the film, on which and drag the plant to a new location, then transfer it to a previously prepared pit.
Need to water
After the transplant, the lilac must be watered. If there is no possibility to do this regularly, mulching will help - peat, humus, sawdust. There is nothing suitable? Hence, close the near-stall circle with a multiple layer of newspapers, cardboard, cotton wool. It is useful, after landing for a couple of days, to pull the crown down with a rope and cover with a wet cloth, so that the moisture from the leaves does not so quickly evaporate.
How can I feed the lilac? She loves ... kebabs! Pour the ash remaining after frying into the trunk circle, then mulch with mowed grass. During the season, the plant can be so “pampered" 3-5 times.
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Do not believe those who claim that breaking off a blooming lilac is useful, they say, then it will be better to blossom next year. This you only disfigure the bush and increase the risk of the disease. If necessary, cut the 2 / 3 length of the flowering shoot for the bouquet. This causes the active development of the remaining branch and the formation of new ones. But the shaping and rejuvenating lilac pruning is best done in late autumn.
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A lilac sapling has been planted in the sun, but it is open to all winds, even to the north. Now I understand why it is growing so hard. He is three years old. Can I transplant it in the spring?
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She tried to cut the lilacs, read that she cut the cuttings during the mass flowering, and did so. Most of it took root, but in spring everyone was not viable. What did I do wrong? Maybe it was necessary to bring them into the house and leave it until spring in a warm place?
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You are very fortunate that the cuttings are ingrained, since the lilac is considered one of the most difficult rooted plants. Perhaps your plants still did not form roots, and they only remained green, this also happens, especially if you keep them at high humidity, for example under a jar. Cuttings of lilac in the middle lane of Russia not bad winter and without any shelter. But it is better to cover them with leaf litter or fir branches for more effective snow retention.