Bulbous for growing at home - description from A to Z
Contents ✓
- ✓ AMARILLIS: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ AMARCRINUM: PLACEMENT AND CARE
- ✓ Bovia: landing and care
- ✓ Wallow: landing and care
- ✓ GEMANTUS: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ HYPPHASISTREAL: PLANTING AND CARE
- ✓ DRIMIOSPIS: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ ZEFIRANTES: PLACING AND CARE
- ✓ KRINUM: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ How to distinguish from others
- ✓ LADEBURY: PLACEMENT AND CARE
- ✓ SCADOXUS: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ Sweet Focus - Care
- ✓ EQUOMIS: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ Eucrose: Landing and Care
- ✓ EUKHARIS: LANDING AND CARE
- ✓ PROBLEMS OF GROWING BUNK
- ✓ Diseases of bulbous flowers
- ✓ MEDICAL USEFUL PROPERTIES OF LUNKS
Bulbous flowers at home - a description of plants
AMARILLIS: LANDING AND CARE
In the past, amaryllis (Arnarillis belladonna) was a very common and popular houseplant, but now it is quite rare in flower growers, as it is heavily pressed by its more successful counterpart - hippeastrum.
With some famous plants, fate played a cruel joke. Their widely used name does not match the correct botanical. The most famous example is geranium pelargonium. Often this does not matter, but the case with amaryllis is special, so
how its life cycle and some elements of agricultural technology differ from those of the outwardly very similar to him hippeastrum, garden forms of which are marketed under the commercial name "amaryllis". The confusion is further aggravated by the fact that hybridization with amaryllis was indeed widely used in the selection of these hippeastrum (H. xhortorium).
Accommodation and boarding
Like the vast majority of bulbous plants, the amaryllis is very photophilic and the place for its maintenance should be brightly lit. Well tolerates direct sunlight, and the optimal location will be the windows of the south-east or south-west exposure. Soil prefers light, medium fertility. A mixture of sod land, humus and sand (1: 1: 2) will completely satisfy its needs. At the bottom of the pot, a drainage layer is required. The tip of the bulb should slightly rise above the surface of the soil. The roots of amaryllis are very brittle, so the procedure for planting is done carefully. For the same reason, the bulb should not be transplanted more often than once in 3-4.
Seasonal cycle
By controlling the parameters of the external environment, the blooming of most bulbs can be caused at almost any time of the year. Amaryllis is no exception. However, under indoor conditions, it will be optimal to time the end of the rest period at the beginning of spring. If necessary, the plant is transplanted and divided overgrown nests. At the beginning of leaf regrowth, watering is limited. Gradually, it is increased, but the soil is always moistened very mildly and gently, allowing the top layer to dry slightly. In the growing phase, once a decade, it is useful to feed the plant, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.
By the mid-to-late summer, the leaves of the amaryllis begin to gradually die off. At this time, you should gradually reduce watering. Soon there is a flower arrow. Each individual flower does not last long, but the total flowering period of the perennial nest can be about a month, especially at a moderate temperature.
At the end of flowering, the pot and the onion should be placed in a dark cool room with a temperature of about + 10 deg, not less than 2-3 a month. The rest period for the amaryllis is mandatory. Although the plant is at rest, the roots do not dry out, so the soil should remain slightly moist.
Reproduction of amaryllis
They bloom with good care after 3-4 years. Although it’s better not to do this without necessity, since the “family” group formed over several years looks much more spectacular than a single onion. If you are going to follow this advice, immediately take a wide pot when planting. To increase the decorativeness, you can initially plant several bulbs in one pot.
If desired, you can try seed propagation, but wait for the first flowering of seedlings will have at least 5 years. Seeds quickly lose their germination, so they must be sown within a month after ripening, slightly sprinkled with a substrate. At a temperature of + 23-25 degrees, seedlings appear after 2-3 weeks. A leaf appears - seedlings dive.
Possible difficulties
Amaryllis is generally unpretentious. Of the possible problems, the main one is rotting of the bulb against the background of excessive moisture. In order to prevent various types of rot, it is possible to recommend periodic treatment with one of the microbiological fungicides (Alirin, Gliocladin, Fitosporin, etc.). If a disease occurs, the bulb is cleaned of soil, the affected parts are cut out, treated with fungicide (for example, "Maxim"), the damaged areas are sprinkled with activated carbon, slightly dried (2-3 hours) and planted in new soil. The first watering in 1-2 days after planting, in the future - very moderate.
The main pests - scabies and spider mites, most often appear in dry air. For the fight use approved insecticides and acaricides.
© Alexander Tsymbal. plant collector, Togliatti
Another important and pleasant difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum is its high coefficient of formation of daughter bulbs. Therefore, there are no problems with reproduction. Children are carefully separated during transplants.
Reference by topic: Hippeastrum - landing and care at home
AMARCRINUM: PLACEMENT AND CARE
This bulbous representative is still not widely used in home collections, although undoubtedly worthy of attention.
Amarcrinum Howard (Amarcrinum howardii) - a hybrid of amaryllis and crinum (Amaryllis belladonna x Crinum). This is an evergreen plant 60-70 cm tall with nice pink flowers. In spring, it grows a mop of long tapeworm leaves, and blooms in late summer and early fall. Peduncles reach 90-100 cm.
In early spring, the bulb is planted in the ground, deepening into the soil at half its height. During the growing season (from spring to autumn), they are fed 2-3 times a month, on the 8th beginning of growth - with a greater proportion of nitrogen, closer to the time of flowering they increase the proportion of potassium and phosphorus. It is important not to exceed the recommended concentration of fertilizers, but rather to lower them by 1,5-2 times. Soon after flowering, the interval and intensity of irrigation is reduced, and feeding is stopped. When part of the leaves turns yellow and dries, the pot with the plant is transferred to a room with a temperature of +10 degrees, or lower. Cold wintering is required.
Amarkrinum likes fresh air and natural diurnal temperature changes. In the warm season it is desirable to take out on a balcony, a loggia or a garden. You can land directly in the open ground (in regions with mild winter-
we can and winter with shelter). Like its "ancestor" amaryllis, Howard amarcrinum actively grows children and forms large nests of bulbs. Therefore, for planting, plants select a spacious wide pot. The soil is loose, nutritious. Propagate the plant by daughter bulbs during transplants.
In my opinion, amarquinum is easier to care for compared to amaryllis, and it's more likely to blossom.
© Elena KUZNETSOVA, amaryllis collector, Pemza
Reference by topic: Bulbous tuberous and rhizome flowers and plants - planting
Bovia: landing and care
Zulu potato, creeping onion, sea cucumber - these are not all the names of the curly bovie (Bowiea volubilis) that its locals awarded in their homeland, in South and South-West Africa.
This elegant plant according to modern classification belongs to the family Asparagaceae. His unusual appearance bovieya certainly like the lovers of exotics.
Features
The bulbs in the rooms grow to 5-7, rarely 10 cm in diameter, usually covered with dry scales. When kept in conditions of moderate illumination and abundant watering, scales do not dry out for a long time and remain green.
In spring, from the center of an adult bulb grows a juicy, green, over time, highly branched, curly flower stalk (or several), which besides the actual flowering (which happens relatively rarely in rooms) bears all the photosynthetic function. The length of his lashes can be more than a meter. They can be given a vertical support or let loose hang down. Openwork, incredibly intertwined boviene greens are most effective when several bulbs are planted in a pot.
Bovie care
In the care bovieja unpretentious. It can grow both in the sun (in summer with pritene-niy), and in the penumbra. Under the noonday direct rays, the plant can get burns, which will lead to loss of decorativeness and premature withering of the aboveground part.
When planting, only the lower part of the bulb is buried. Mixture - as for succulents, not too nutritious, with obligatory loosening additives (coarse sand, perlite, etc.). It is important not to overdo it with watering - in the summer it is enough to moisten every 7-10 days. Excess and stagnation of moisture is fraught with rotting of the bulb.
In autumn, with a decrease in daylight hours, the aerial part dries up and the plant rest throughout the winter. At this time, it is desirable to provide coolness (about + 15 degree) and do not disturb watering, keep it dry.
It should be remembered that boviea curly is a poisonous plant.
© Natalia GUBANOVA. Minsk cactus club. Author photo
Wallow: landing and care
For more than five years, we have been friends with the wallot. This plant was my cherished dream, attracted by unpretentiousness, bright red coloring of flowers and compactness.
The leaves of the wallota, in contrast to the hype-peastrum, are shorter and do not disappear for the winter, allowing the plant to maintain decorativeness all year round. And the peduncle is low, with a neat bouquet of flowers. The bulb is slightly elongated, oval, integumentary scales and leaves at the base are brown-raspberry - these signs make it easy to distinguish from other bulbous Amaryllis family.
And I was amazed by her numerous children, who appear in the axils of the leaves. Separating from the mother plant and falling into the pot, they form the contractile roots, which, as if by magic, pull bulbs into the soil to the required depth.
The long-awaited acquisition
I was lucky - at one of the flower markets I met my dream. In the center of the pot, surrounded by children of different ages, sat a large bulb, decorated with a peduncle with four bright red flowers - everything, as I imagined.
At home I carefully examined the plant, processed it for prophylaxis against pests, and gave some of the children. Flower spike after a couple of weeks, cut half, it would wait, when its lower part dried, and completely removed.
Vallot transfer
Next was a transplant. During this procedure, I always separate part of the children, leaving no more than 3-4, so as not to deplete the mother's bulb. The roots of the wallota are plump, but fragile, easily damaged by damage. Therefore, I dusted them with a mixture of crushed charcoal with root. While they were drying in the air, I poured a layer of drainage into a larger pot, lined a thin layer of moss, chopped up a little dry chicken droppings at the walls - she loves feeding, especially organics. Soil was taken by Terra Vita, added vermiculite, sand, chernozem and crushed moss (5: 0,5: 0,5: 1: 0,5). She poured the soil with a slide, gently straightened the roots and filled the rest of the soil with soil. Bulbs rose one third above the ground.
After the transplant, watered the lot-lot not immediately (enough that the soil is moderately moist), and a week later. This made it possible for the roots to become familiar in the fresh ground, and the wound to be tightened. Prior to the first watering, the plant was kept in semi-darkness and coolness.
About flowering
Now the wallot stands on the top shelf of the western loggia. Only at the time of flowering I carry the plant on a shelf closer to the door so that from the room one can admire its bright colors. Blossoms mainly in summer or autumn. Each flower lasts an average of ten days, and if you consider that they do not open simultaneously, you can admire the blossoming wallot for a long time.
The rest period
After flowering, I continue to water and feed the plant for a month and a half, then I definitely arrange a dormant period. I keep the wallot at a temperature of + 8-10 deg., Watering gradually I minimize it, but I do not allow loss of leaves - it is very important to save most of the foliage in winter.
In spring I move the vallot closer to the light, I resume watering and feeding. I also feed mineral fertilizers for flowering plants, and the infusion of chicken manure. In a warm time, I water abundantly, but between watering I let the soil dry out. Constantly wet soil, the wallota suffers poorly.
If desired, you can achieve a repeated flowering of the plant, arranging for him an additional period of rest.
During seed propagation, Wallot blooms in the third year, and when propagated by daughter bulbs - in the second. Before flowering, seedlings can be grown without a dormant period.
Elena Khomich, Balashikha, Moscow Region. Photo of the author
From the editors: according to the modern classification the genus Vallota has been disbanded. The species that used to be included in it are now included in the genera Cirtantus and Cleavia. The name Vallota speciosa is now synonymous with the name Cirtanthus elatus.
Reference by topic: Bulbous flowers and plants - from spring to late autumn
GEMANTUS: LANDING AND CARE
On my windowsill settled "deer tongue." This is what the people call this interesting bulbous plant.
Hemanthus native to South Africa. Translated from the Greek hemanthus - "bloody flower", he got this name due to the fact that most members of the genus have rich red flowers. But among lovers of indoor plants, the white-flowered hemanthus Haemanthus albiflos is more popular - a very effective and fairly simple plant to maintain.
Features of the view
The broad, dense, oval, slightly pubescent leaves at the edges (because of which he received the nickname "deer tongue") are arranged in a dense fan. Usually they are few - from two to six. The height of the plant is 20-25 cm. It grows slowly, usually only two new leaves grow in a year. Old leaves die off, and the bulb gradually thickens and reaches 6-8 cm in an adult plant. The flowering of the white-flowered hemanthus is very interesting - the inflorescence on a thick peduncle looks like a bowl full of snow-white stamens with yellow pollen. In adult plants, 2-3 peduncles may appear. Hemanthus blooms usually in late summer or early fall.
Gemanthus: care
The plant is photophilous, but does not like direct sunlight at the height of summer - the tips of the leaves can burn and dry. The ideal place for him is the east or west window. On the south window, the hemanthus must be shaded. Watering in the summer is plentiful, but the soil between waterings must be dry. Two to three times during the growing season (from May to September), the hemanthus can be fed with complex fertilizer for bulb crops. In winter, it is desirable for the plant to provide a period of relative dormancy at a temperature of + 15-18 degrees, with less frequent watering.
Gemanthus transplantation
Once every two to three years, at the beginning of spring, it is desirable to transplant the hemanthus. The plant prefers soil to a loose and nutritious soil. I mix two parts of a turf and one part of a coarse sand. You can add a little peat to this mixture. At the bottom of the pot, a layer of drainage (claydite or fine gravel) is poured, then the soil, I place the bulb, evenly spreading the roots, and I fall asleep about one third of the height. The pot should not be too wide or too deep. It is possible to recommend a container with a diameter of twice or three times the diameter of the bulb. There must necessarily be openings for the drainage of excess water: the roots of the hemanthus are sensitive to the stagnation of moisture in the soil and can rot, especially if the plant is in a cool room or in a draft.
Reproduction of a hemanthus
Reproduction of the hemanthus does not represent difficulties. At the base of an adult bulb, small bulb-babies appear regularly, which can be easily separated from the mother plant and rooted in individual pots. Bloom young plants usually on 3-4-th year.
Hemanthus can also be propagated by seeds - juicy red fruits often set after flowering (the plant is prone to self-pollination) and ripen in about three months, by the beginning of winter.
Possible difficulties
White-flowered gemanthus is quite resistant to pests. Sometimes aphids, worms, spider mites can be attacked. In this case, the plant is treated with appropriate preparations. With regular waterlogging, especially in combination with low temperatures, rotting of the roots and the bulbs themselves is possible.
© Inna BAYRACHNAYA, Minsk. Photo by author and Elena Khomich
HYPPHASISTREAL: PLANTING AND CARE
There are not many intergeneric hybrids in the Amaryllis family. One of them - a hybrid of hippeastrum and the most beautiful shchepelia was obtained back in the 70s of the last century.
In my opinion, hippeastrelia (x Hippeastrelia) incorporates some of the advantages of both parents: from hippeastrum - the relative ease of flowering, and from shcheprelia - the elegance of flower lines and the rich bright red color of the petals.
Features of gyppeastrelia
Bulb reddish, slightly smaller in size, it in most varieties of hippeastrum, dense to the touch, covered with several layers
dark dry scales. Abundantly gives children, forming a "nest". The leaves are dark green, narrow (no more than 3 cm wide), long, with a groove on the upper side, also reddish at the base. They grow at the end of winter-spring, simultaneously or immediately after flowering.
Planting and substrate for gyppeastrelia
Plant the bulb, deepening half or one third of its height. Planting time (from December to March) depends on the time of retirement last fall - the plant should rest for about three months. If the bulb "sleeps", you can wait with a planting - until a brighter period, and if the tip of the peduncle or leaves appeared - it's time to plant. Although, if the time came for awakening, the bulb can be planted without the corresponding signs - moisture, heat, light will do the trick, and it will wake up.
The soil for planting is loose, water- and breathable. A mixture of universal flower soil, leaf soil and baking powder (coarse sand, perlite) is suitable. Drain is mandatory at the bottom of the pot. The shape of the container is standard, the height is slightly larger than the diameter. From the edge of the pot to the bulb - about 3 cm.
Watering and feeding
The first time after planting, the plant is watered moderately. While the bulb does not take root well, excess moisture will not be good for it. When the leaves start to grow, watering can be increased and at the height of the growing season, watered as the top layer of the soil dries up. It is better to drain water from the pallet.
Feeding begins about a month after planting, after flowering, once every two weeks. If there is no specialized fertilizer for bulbous, at the beginning of growth a complex fertilizer for ornamental foliage will approach, from August it is better to reduce the share of nitrogen.
Hyppestillia: care
Under bright light, with a few hours of direct morning or evening sun per day, the leaves of the hippeastrelia will be strong, “tanned,” the socket will not fall apart and retain its decorative effect. From a lack of light, the leaves stretch out, become thinner and often wilt / lie down under their own weight.
The diurnal temperature changes and the abundance of fresh air have a positive effect on the well-being of the plant and the subsequent winter flowering, so that in the warm season the hippeway can be carried to the garden, to the balcony, to the loggia and placed in a light openwork penumbra.
The rest period
In autumn, from the end of September, watering is gradually reduced, and when night temperatures begin to drop below + 8-10 degrees, they take the plant into the room without digging it up, put it in a cool, dark place (preferably not higher than +15 degrees) for the winter. Leaves are removed after complete drying. Hippeastrelia without leaves hibernates. My copy with retirement and subsequent awakening copes without problems, although it dries out by spring by almost a third of its “autumn” volume due to a higher temperature than necessary (+ 18-20 degrees.).
Flowering gippeastrelii
Usually gippeastrelia produces 1-2 dark-red stems, bearing two flowers. Their height depends on the level of illumination. Sometimes the peduncles develop simultaneously, and sometimes in turn. This spring, as many as three stems, blazed with a bouquet of bright red flowers! The spectacle is impressive, and it's worth it to wait a whole year.
© Natalia GUBANOVA, collector of plants, Minsk. Photo by Alexey GUBANOV
DRIMIOSPIS: LANDING AND CARE
I have a plant for many years, which surprises everyone who sees it for the first time. No, it does not have flowers such as orchids, and its size is modest, and leaves are not striking. And nevertheless, drimiopsis always attracts attention.
And in fact, the pot is filled with bulbs, which in appearance resemble bulbs of garden lilies, and the leaves on the high variegated petioles look like lily of the valley leaves, only speckled. During flowering, dreamiopsis from afar can also be mistaken for a lily of the valley. No wonder - both plants belong to the same Asparagus family, but the flowers of Drimiopsis are more like stars than bells. White at the beginning, they turn green towards the end of flowering.
History of dating
Spotted Dreamiopsis appeared a long time ago, about 12 years ago. I acquired a small onion with a pair of speckled leaves on the market and, fortunately, the hostess even knew its name. And to myself I called it “dream”, from English “dream”.
Will survive in any conditions
Dreamiopsis gave a lot of children, and I shared with everyone. Arriving once to a friend, she did not immediately recognize her plant. To my question, what happened to the dreamiopis, my friend replied that she didn’t do anything special, put her in a spacious bowl, watered like all the flowers. But the leaves of the plant were three times larger than mine, just some kind of burdock. Perhaps Dreamiopsis liked the place on the windowsill in the bathroom: warm, bright and humid. I look after my specimen as if I were succulent: a cramped pot, moderate watering, lots of light. Hence the conclusion - the plant will survive in any conditions, this is also confirmed by the incident that occurred with my dreamiopsis.
Miracles of Fortitude
For several years the plant did not replant and the bulbs were already hardly placed in the pot. In the spring I was going to make a transplant, took out a plant from a flowerpot and saw that there was no land left at all, only bulbs and roots. But something prevented me from finishing the job, I put the bulbs in a cardboard box and put it on a shelf. There are enough worries in the spring, and if there are more than one hundred indoor plants, and no less in the garden, then you will not immediately notice one of them. In general, I found a box of onions before the New Year, cleaning on the shelves (fortunately, the veranda is heated). For 8 months, the bulbs did not even lose turgor, although there were no leaves or roots. I put the five largest in a bowl, and distributed the rest to my friends. A month later, all the bulbs took root, a little later the leaves and children appeared, and by May the plant bloomed, as if nothing had happened. Well, how not to admire such vitality?
Easy to care for
In spring and summer, drimiopsis water regularly, 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather. In the autumn
I reduce watering to 1 time per week, and in winter time - to 2-3 times a month. Sometimes in winter the plant loses part of the leaves, this is a natural process, so a small drying of an earthen coma at this time of the year will not harm him. I use the same soil as for all bulbs: universal purchased soil plus garden soil with the addition of charcoal and vermiculite. As a drainage I take expanded clay. When planting, the bulbs should protrude 2/3 above the surface of the soil, during the growth process they almost completely "come out" of it. Dreamiopsis spends summer in the room, on the street its delicate leaves on tall petioles can scuff the wind and burn the sun. Its usual place is on a table near the western window; in the hot summer, it feels good on the northern window.
Settle such unpretentious spotted miracle on your windowsill, you will not regret it!
Valentina MIRONOVA, city of Bataysk, Rostov region. Photo by the author and Valentina VASILEVSKAYA
ZEFIRANTES: PLACING AND CARE
The Latin name Zephyranthes translates as “west wind flower” and reflects the unexpected appearance of peduncles and the speed of development of the flowers of this plant. Because of this feature, marshmallows are often called "upstart."
Zephyranthes are small plants with small cone-shaped bulbs up to 2,5-3 cm in diameter and narrow linear leaves up to 30 cm long, which most often grow simultaneously with flowers. A peduncle 20-30 cm long carries a single relatively large flower surrounded by two fused bracts. Its life span is only a few days, but each bulb can form several peduncles, so new ones appear instead of wilted flowers.
Zephyranthes flowers pink, white or yellow with a funnel-shaped perianth bloom in spring and summer, in some species in winter. In case of pollination, a fruit is formed - a box with flat dark seeds.
It should be borne in mind that zefirantesy contain toxic alkaloids. In some countries, they are used as medicinal plants.
Care zephirantesom
Zephyrantes is photophilous and feels comfortable in direct sunlight. In summer, the plant can be taken to the loggia, to the balcony and even planted in open ground. During the growing season, watering is regular, but moderate - as the top layer of the soil dries up, without overflow and stagnation of water in the pot. Humidity does not play a significant role. For the full formation of flower buds, the bulbs arrange a rest period - a dry and cool wintering.
For this purpose, in the autumn, watering is gradually reduced, which leads to yellowing and drying of the leaves. Contain at a temperature of + 12-14 (not below + 10) degrees. Bezlistnye bulbs can not be watered, but if the leaves are partially preserved, the plant is kept in a bright place, rarely (once a month) and very damply moisturized. Regular watering is renewed after the beginning of vegetation.
Transplanting zephyranthes
Under the condition of regular top dressing during growth with complex mineral fertilizers (once every two weeks), an annual transplant is not required. Only overgrown nests of bulbs are planted, which become crowded in a pot (about once every 3-4 years). The best time for this is spring, at the end of the rest period. Bulbs are planted in fertile loose and well-drained soil, deepened so that the tops are at the level of the surface of the substrate. To achieve the maximum decorative effect, wide and low pots are used, in which several copies are planted at once. The first time watered very carefully to prevent rotting of the bulbs.
Reproduction
It is easiest to propagate marshmallows with daughter bulbs. Less commonly, by seeds. To obtain them, artificial pollination of flowers is required. Seedlings usually bloom for 3-4 years.
Разнообразие
In the subtropical and tropical regions of America, there are about 40 species of marshmallows. In indoor conditions, the most common: - Zephyranthes Atamas (ZEPHYRANTHES atamasca) with white flowers, native to the southern US states;
- zefirantes snow white (Zephyranthes Candida) with crocus, white flowers, from the tropical zone of the east of South America. A favorite houseplant, known in culture with 1515. Unlike other species, it retains leaves during dormancy;
- zefirantes large-flowered (Zephyranthes grandiflora) with large pink flowers, grows in Mexico, Guatemala on the island of Jamaica;
- zefirantes pink (Zephyranthes rosea) with pink flowers, from Central America, differs from 3tabhfyntcf large-flowered in smaller sizes;
- zefirantes golden (Zephyranthes aurea) with golden yellow flowers, native to Peru.
Less common zefirantes lemon yellow (Zephyranthes citrina) with bright yellow flowers, zephyranthes of Drummond (Zephyranthes drummondii) - with white flowers that have a salmon-pink hue, Zephyranthes lindleyana Zephyranthes with large pink flowers and others.
Breeders brought out dozens of varieties with flowers of various colors, shapes and sizes. Modern cultivars are represented by zephirantes of pastel tones, unusual shades of red, two-colored with a bright contrast center, as well as striped and double flowers.
© Mikhail MANYAKOV, Head of the Houseplant Lovers Club Inflorescence, Grodno
See also: Bulbous flowers (photo and name) - garden and home
KRINUM: LANDING AND CARE
In my family Amaryllis crinus reddish (Crinum erubescens) appeared three years ago as a baby. Flower growers complain that it does not bloom for a long time, growing leaves for years.
I managed to admire its colors in just a couple of years. The secret is simple - for flowering krinum needs a period of rest in coolness.
1 year. The krynum was given to the child in a universal purchase soil with the addition of baking powder (perlite, coarse-grained sand). She safely got accustomed and started growing.
Watering moderately and evenly all year, kept in a bright place. 2nd year. Transplanted into a larger pot. Krinum increased in size and increased the "kids" - which means it has become old enough for the rest period. In the fall, gradually reduced watering and transferred it to the loggia. There, krinum rested in cool until February with rare moisture once a month and a half. During this time, some of the "kids" have dried up due to lack of moisture.
At the end of winter, resumed the normal watering regime, but did not change the plant, because a close pot in adult krynum stimulates flowering. 3 year. Spring and all summer Krinum actively grew, increased children and sometimes dried them. In the autumn, I sent him back to the loggia with minimal watering. And, finally, in spring there was a spike of a peduncle!
Every day I looked in - how the "arrow" increases there.
The week awaited the long-awaited flowering - unfortunately, the flowers of crinum, like many amaryllis, quickly fade.
How to distinguish from others
Often I come across the fact that this flower is an amazing plant, but they either confuse it with other members of the Amaryllis family, or do not know who it is and what its name is. Krinum in both flowering and non-flowering form is easy to distinguish:
- - Krinum leaves grow in a circle, leaving the middle, twisted into a tube;
- - if you pull on dry scales, a "cobweb" will stretch (typical only for krinum);
- - and if krinum bloomed, then it’s quite simple: its flowers do not have a crown, like a hymenocallis, with which it is often frightened.
The genus was named “ledeburia” in honor of the famous German botanist, researcher of Siberia and Altai, Karl Friedrich von Ledebour. The plant itself comes from the Cape Province of South Africa, where it grows on open plains and in dry floodplains of rivers flooded during the rainy season.
Features of the view
At ledebury very beautiful lanceolate leaves 7-10 cm in height, from below purple-violet, and on top are silvery with green spots.
Elena Kuznetsova, Penza. Photo by Tatyana Sanchuk
LADEBURY: PLACEMENT AND CARE
Public Ledeburia (Ledebouria socialis), or Scylla violet (Scilla violacea) - one of the few bulbous plants that is decorative year-round.
The bulb is small, purple, usually half submerged in the ground. Abundantly formed daughter bulbs soon fill the pot, forming a kind of curtain, for which ledebury was called public. In March-April on the plants with large bulbs appear inflorescence with greenish campanulate flowers.
Ledeburia Care
Ledeburia is photophilous and prefers southern windows, it can also grow on the western or southeastern ones (with insufficient lighting, the color of the leaves can fade), is undemanding to air humidity. It develops well in a loose nutrient substrate, for example, in leafy soil with the addition of humus. It requires moderate watering, the earthen lump should regularly dry. In spring and summer, ledeburia is fed with fertilizers for bulbs or with complex fertilizers with a predominance of potassium - in half of the recommended dose once every two weeks. In summer, the plant can be taken out to the garden, but it should be remembered that it does not tolerate a drop in temperature below +7 degrees.
Reproduction of ledeburia
Propagate ledeburia with daughter bulbs that can be separated at any time of the year, but it can also be multiplied easily with seeds. It is recommended that once in 3-4 the transplanted nests are transplanted into a new substrate, while separating the extra bulbs, thereby slightly rejuvenating the plant.
Possible difficulties
Ledeburia is quite unpretentious and is rarely affected by pests and diseases. Of the main pests can be called a spider mite and a scutellum, occasionally can harm aphids and thrips. As a consequence of overflow, especially with cold water, roots can rot. Plants should periodically inspect and apply, if necessary, appropriate drugs.
Разнообразие
In addition to public icebergs in the culture of indoor floriculture, you can also see Ledebouria cooperi and yellow ledeery (Ledebouria luteola). У ledebury Cooper Green leaves with longitudinal purple stripes and bright pink fragrant flowers. The leaves of the Ledebury yellow are smaller, yellowish-green in color, with a patch of dark spots.
© Tatyana KUSHNIKOVA, collector of plants, Novosibirsk
SCADOXUS: LANDING AND CARE
I was very impressed when I first saw a bright, unusual flowering of scadoxus - above the soil in a pot, on the leafless peduncles three spectacular openwork inflorescences resembling giant dandelions towered.
Scodoxus multiflorous (Scadoxus multiflorus) - one of 9 species of the genus of bulbous plants of the Amaryllis family. Distributed in South Africa, on the Arabian Peninsula and Seychelles. It is found in lowlands and mountain forests, savannah, in meadows and pastures, along river banks, where it grows in the shade of trees and shrubs. In a culture, scadoxus is grown as a houseplant, for distillation at different times, and even as a cut crop.
Previously, this plant was attributed to the genus Gemanthus (Haemanthus), whose name in Greek means "bloody flower." In 1976, it was singled out as an independent genus Skadoksus, however, popular names still reflect the peculiar color of the flowers, for example, the English language translates as “bloody lily”.
Features of the view
The spherical umbellate inflorescence can reach 25 cm in diameter and total up to 200 cinnabar-red flowers with narrow petals and long stamens.
Each bulb forms one inflorescence per season. After pollination, the berries are tied up to 1 cm in diameter, which, as they mature, turn red. Large and thin leaves with a textured folded surface, relief veins and wavy edges grow simultaneously with the peduncle or form after flowering. Leaflets of leaves are tightly folded and form a false stem, often with reddish-brown or dark purple spots.
Разнообразие
The typical Scadoxus multiflorum, which was previously considered as a subspecies (Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. Multiflorus) or Hemanthus multiflorum (H. multiflorus), is a small plant from dry and sunny savannahs. Peduncle, as a rule, appears before the growth of leaves. The rest period is pronounced and long.
In addition, according to modern classification, botany distinguish two subspecies, differing in the structure of flowers, the size of the plant and the area of distribution in nature.
Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. katharinae, formerly known as Hemanthus Katerina (N. katharinae), is the tallest representative of the species (up to 120 cm) with purple spots on the pseudostem. Blossoms simultaneously with the formation of leaves, prefers partial shade. The resting period is short.
Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. longitubus formerly called Hemanthus long-tubular (N. longitubus) or Hemanthus Mann (N. mannii). It is rarely found in culture, mainly in the collections of botanical gardens.
Known varieties of scadoxus with large inflorescences - 'Konig Albert', 'Andromeda' and 'In Rainbows', obtained by crossing a multicolor sweet-cousin (ssp. Katharinae) with sweet-pomegranate pomegranate (Scadoxus puniceus) and sweet-smelling pubic (Scadoxus membranaceus). The cultivar 'Orange Wonder' is grown as a cutting crop, its inflorescences in the cut retain their decorativeness for up to two weeks.
Sweet Focus - Care
Scadoxus is a photophilous plant, its optimum is from bright but scattered lighting to light partial shade. In direct sunlight, leaves can get burned. A loose, permeable and well-drained substrate rich in organic matter, for example, based on compost soil, is suitable for cultivation. During the flowering and growing season, regular fertilizing with complex fertilizers is useful.
In summer, it is advisable to take the plant out into the fresh air - into the loggia, onto the balcony. During active growth, they are watered sparingly, in the heat - abundantly, but without waterlogging, which can cause rotting of the roots and bulbs.
In autumn, watering is reduced, after the above-ground part dries, the pot with the onion is put in a cool place (+ 10-15 degree). During the rest period (usually October-January) the soil is moistened seldom and poorly.
Adult Skadoxus is transplanted every 2-3 year after flowering, before the beginning of growth, and the bulb is not completely buried.
Reproduction of sweetcod
Propagate the plant with daughter bulbs or grow from freshly harvested seeds. Seeds are cleaned from the pulp, washed and lightly pressed into a loose substrate. Flowering seedlings will have to wait at least three years.
© Mikhail MANYAKOV, Head of the Houseplant Lovers Club Inflorescence, Grodno
CROSSING: LANDING AND CARE
This plant is popular with flower growers due to the amazing flowers exotic form with exquisitely curved velvety petals (segments of the perianth), painted in a rich cinnabar-red shade.
Race Spreckelia from the family Amaryllis was previously considered monotypic, that is, represented by the only species - Sprekelia the most beautiful (Sprekelia formosissima). Currently, botanists have added several new species to it, in particular, Howard Sprekelia (Sprekelia howardii) - a more compact plant with narrow petals, named after bulb expert Plants Thad Howard (Sprekelia glauca) with bluish leaves and some others that have not yet spread in culture.
Sprechelia - an endemic of Mexico, was introduced to Europe in the XNUMXth century and got its name in honor of the mayor
Hamburger Spreckelsen (Johann Heinrich von Spreckelsen, 1691-1764), engaged in its cultivation. This bulbous plant is sometimes called the lily of the Aztecs, the lily of the Templars, the lily of St. James, and also the Mexican amaryllis.
Species
Shprekelia flowers are characterized by pronounced zygomorphism (one axis of symmetry), which is rare in amaryllis. The three upper segments are erect, with the tops bent back, the other three are directed downward. The flowers have a slight vanilla odor. Each peduncle is crowned with a single flower, however, large bulbs can form several peduncles at the same time (2-3). Shprekelia blooms in spring or early summer, in good conditions, repeated blooming is sometimes observed in autumn. However, the plant is not always happy with flowers every year. In case of violations of agricultural technology, it can “be capricious” and instead of laying flower buds grow into daughter bulbs.
Reference by topic: Small plants (photos) - planting and care
Spreckelia: Care
It should be borne in mind that Spreckelia is light and thermophilic. For good development during the growing season, it needs high illumination with a fraction of direct sunlight and a temperature of + 20-25 degrees. For the summer, the plant can be carried to a loggia or balcony. Watering in spring and summer should be moderate. Avoid moisture on the bulb, waterlogging the soil and stagnant water in the pan. Easy drying between watering is permissible. Extra fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers once every two weeks.
Planting of spanking
Good drainage is one of the prerequisites for a successful shtrekeliya culture. The layer of pebbles, shards or expanded clay should be at least 3 cm. The pot should be selected taking into account the growth prospects for three years, since shprekelia sometimes painfully perceives root damage during transplantation. The substrate is composed of sod, humus, peat soil with the addition of disintegrants (coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite) to ensure good air exchange, since the root system negatively reacts to soil compaction. When planting, the bulb is buried at half its height or slightly more - the top must be above the surface of the substrate. Under the bottom it is useful to pour a layer of coarse sand.
The rest period
Long and narrow leaves that appear during or immediately after flowering die in autumn after the gradual cessation of watering. In the period of rest, which lasts until the end of winter, in the pots the bulbs are kept dry, at a temperature of + 10-15 degrees. Watering is carefully renewed only after the birth of the peduncle or the beginning of the growth of the leaves.
More about Spreckelia
Propagate the plant usually daughter bulbs, which are separated during transplantation.
Of the diseases and pests, the greatest danger is stagnant sporosis, or “red burn”, a mealybug, a spider mite and a scab.
Most of the shcheprelia in the culture are represented by the commercial Superba clone. The assortment also includes cultivars 'Grandifiora' (flowers up to 15 cm), 'Orient Red', 'Peru', 'High Priest' and others with flowers in various shades of red and pink. Breeders bred hybrids with hippeastrum - hippeastrelia (Hippeastrelia) and gabrantus - shprekantus (Sprekanthus).
© Mikhail MANYAKOV, Head of the Indoor Plants Club
EQUOMIS: LANDING AND CARE
In Western Europe, especially in Holland, eukomis are very popular. They are ideal for planting in containers, pots and flowerpots, like seasonal plants in well-lit rooms.
The name of this genus of bulbs from the Hyacinth family is translated from Greek as “beautiful crests”. It is not in vain that flower growers call the eukomis a crested lily and South African lily of the valley, and the English name ananas-plant indicates a resemblance to pineapple - a flower brush crowns a rosette of leaves (crest).
The flowers open non-simultaneously, creating a flowering wave that runs along the inflorescence from the bottom up, which allows the plant to retain its attractiveness for a long time. In nature, eukomis grow in the foothills of South Africa, as well as in low-lying, swampy areas. In the genus 16 species, they are all decorative. In culture there are autumn, two-color, wavy, dotted, etc.
I have been growing evcomises since 2004. At first - autumn eukomis with yellow inflorescences and a pleasant smell of tomato brine (!), Later acquired the bulbs of a larger two-color eukomis with greenish-burgundy inflorescences.
Agrotechnics
I love these plants for their original long flowering, large succulent leaves, and unpretentiousness in growing. The period from planting the bulbs in a pot to flowering is about two months. The plant is photophilous - southern, southeastern windows are suitable. I plant bulbs in late March and early April. Drainage (pebbles, expanded clay) is required in the pot. Soil - a mixture of turf land, humus and sand (3: 2: 1) or ordinary garden soil mixed with sand (4: 1).
It is better to take a pot for planting plastic, large - the larger the volume, the more powerful the plant is formed. I tried to plant three bulbs in one wide pot, but the plants gave narrow elongated leaves, small inflorescences. Watering - moderate in the spring, plentiful in the summer, but without stagnation of water in the pan. It is better to take warm, settled water. Transplant - every spring in fresh soil. In spring and summer, you can use fertilizer for flowering plants. I add Agricola (0,5 tbsp per liter of water once every 2 weeks). In summer, I often wipe the broad leaves with a damp sponge.
Propagate the plant with daughter bulbs, less often seeds.
Seasons
Spring. I plant bulbs in which light shoots are visible. I place the top at the level of the soil. First, a rosette of leaves appears from the bulb. When the plant develops 6-8 leaves, the peduncle begins to advance. Autumn Eucomysus flowers are whitish-yellow, so I call this species “pineapple candle”. The two-color eukomis flowers are original: greenish-white with a burgundy border and burgundy stamens. The leaves are mottled below, the peduncle is covered with burgundy spots. Indescribable beauty!
The time of flowering of the eukomis depends on the time of planting the bulbs. To prolong the flowering, plant them in several stages, from the end of March to the end of May. At an early planting the first flowers appear in the end of spring.
Summer. In a strong heat in open sunny places, the leaves immediately lose the turgor. Moisturize abundantly, after wilting the flowers gradually watering. I cut the flower-seed when it completely withers. Pots I take out in the garden and put it on a bright spot, I rarely water it. In the rainy summer leaves of plants planted in the garden can damage slugs. In September, I stop watering.
Autumn winter. When the leaves dry up, I take out the bulbs from the pots, put them in the house and dry them. Dry roots do not remove. The bulbs are stored in a box of sand in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator at a low positive temperature. Do not moisturize.
© Marina SPITSINA. Penza
Eucrose: Landing and Care
Several years ago, when I accidentally saw a package with an unfamiliar plant in the store, I bought several onions. Having come home, she began to understand how to grow it. It turned out that it is rare in the room collections of bulbous from the family Amaryllis. Since information was extremely scarce, it was necessary to grow eucrosia by trial and error.
Peruvian lily
In nature, there are 8 types of eukrosia (Eucrosia). This plant is unusual and rare in our latitudes, originally from South America, first found in Peru in 1817, hence the name "Peruvian lily." Widely found in Ecuador.
Like many representatives of amaryllis, eucrosia forms an onion. In nature, during drought, the plant has a rest period, so when growing at home, you should try to create a similar regime. In the rooms contain mainly eucrose two-color (Eucrosia bicolor).
The plant blooms in late spring and early summer. First a thin long flower-bud appears and only after that leaves. The original flowers with long stamens, resting on slender stems, unfortunately, do not last long. To annually enjoy spring and summer flowering, the plant should be carefully looked after.
Eucrosia Care
In winter, eucrosia is at rest. At this time I keep it in a dry ground, in a cool place with a temperature of + 10-12 degrees. In the middle of spring, I transplant, separating the children, bulbs, and do not water until the tip of the peduncle appears.
I plant eukrosia in the purchased soil with the addition of sand, several onions in one pot. The plant loves bright sunlight, therefore it stands on my southern windows, but I shade it from direct sunlight so that there are no burns on the foliage. In summer, during the period of active vegetation, I water as the soil dries up, I feed Fertika a couple of times a season. With the advent of autumn, I reduce watering. The leaves of eukrosia gradually fade and soon she again goes to rest until the next season.
© Elena KUZNETSOVA, Penza
EUKHARIS: LANDING AND CARE
One of the first plants that appeared at my place twenty years ago was eucharis. For me, this is not just a beautiful houseplant, but my mother’s favorite flower, which she called simply a lily. When I found out its correct name, I was very pleased that it really turned out to be a Amazon lily.
For a long time there were no problems with the eucharist, he looked luxurious. A small but wide pot was filled with bulbs, huge glossy leaves on high petioles decorated the plant year-round, and in the spring and autumn 3-5 flower arrows appeared with snow-white fragrant flowers. I did not disturb the lily with transplants, did not abuse fertilizers (yes, they were not especially special), but when the floral arrows appeared,
the plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (as did my mother). After flowering reduced watering, giving the soil a good dry out.
Rains are not for him
The trouble came, as always, unexpectedly. About eight years ago, in the summer, I carried the plant to the garden, under the rain. The summer is hot, the rains are warm, why not the tropics? A couple of days later I had to go on a business trip, the eucharis stayed in the garden. After returning home a week later, I saw that the plant does not look quite healthy, the leaves were tied, some turned yellow. During my absence, rains were raining, the pot was standing on a pallet, and the soil was too wet. I let out excess moisture, cut off the yellow leaves and brought the plant into the house. A little more time passed, but no improvement occurred, the leaves continued to turn yellow. It was necessary to take emergency measures.
Measures to save
First of all, it was necessary to check the roots. I cut off the remains of the leaves and took out the contents of the pot. Virtually all the bulbs were covered with soft gray spots with pink edges, but there were no roots. Of the nineteen bulbs, only one was clean.
Of course, now I would try to save the less affected bulbs, cut them to clean tissue, treat them with fungicide, dry them and put them in separate pots. But then I hastened to separate the only healthy onion, washed it, treated it with Maxim's solution and planted it in a small pot in fresh soil.
Heppe-here
A week did not water, and then very gently moistened the soil. About three months later a new sheet appeared. In a year they were already three, and it was required to transplant to a slightly larger stable pot. When transplanting, I saw that the bulb had grown, and the roots were clean and healthy. A few more years passed before the onion gave the children and blossomed.
Now the eucharis blossoms twice a year, in April and in October. Do not separate the children that have appeared. Amazon lily blooms only in a close company.
© Valentina MIRONOVA, Bataysk, Rostov Region Photo by Gennady KARCHEVSKY
PROBLEMS OF GROWING BUNK
Of course, each specific genus or species of bulbous plants has its own nuances in content, as well as the difficulties that can be encountered. In general, some of them can be considered using the example of hippeastrum.
1. Bulbous plants do not bloom
Bulbous plants may not bloom for many reasons. For example, if they were not provided with a rest period {content at a reduced temperature with or without watering). The plant may lack heat, sun and nutrition, or it is affected by diseases and pests.
Create comfortable conditions, adjust the care - light, heat, loose fertile soil, irrigated with warm water, regular fertilizing with complex fertilizer with microelements. To stimulate all life processes, including flowering, it is possible to treat the leaves with the preparations "Bud", "Ovary", "Krezatsin", "Zircon", "Pre-Motsvet", etc.
2. Yellow leaves lower
If the remaining leaves are sluggish, then most likely the plant is flooded, which is dangerous by the appearance of various rot. Between watering, the soil should be allowed to dry and it is important to use only warm water. You can treat the plant with immunostimulants (Epin, Zircon) and for prophylaxis with some kind of biofungicide, for example, Albit.
If the leaves are elastic, then when they are yellowed, you should inspect the plant for pests. And if the bulb is healthy, the conditions are correct, then the yellowed lower leaves in the absence of young growing can say that it is just preparing for rest. In this case, reduce watering to a minimum and remove the plant in a cool place.
3. Flowers blanched and do not last long on the plant, burns on the leaves
Such signs indicate an excess of
direct sunlight in conjunction with insufficient ventilation (for example, on the windowsills of solar windows in poorly ventilated rooms). The plant should be removed in the penumbra either shade and provide good aeration.
4. Black buds
This can occur when the content is in a low temperature and light and humidity of the soil and air (for example, a damp, cold window of a veranda in a private house). We must urgently change the conditions for more comfortable, watered in moderation and only with warm water. Can be treated with anti-stress drugs.
5. Slow development
A possible reason is the lack of nutrition last season. Bulbs should be fed not only during flowering, but until the dormant period. If spotting is observed on the leaves at the same time as growth, the plant should be examined for diseases or pests.
6. Bulb does not touch the growth one month after planting
Most likely, she lacks the strength to “wake up” - the bulb has critically weakened (too dry) due to an incorrectly organized period of rest - too long, dry, hot, etc. You can try to reanimate it - remove all dry scales and soak in a growth stimulator (Krezatsin, Zircon, Epin), then drop it again. If after 2-3 weeks you do not see the result, then the bulb is already not viable.
Tatyana KUSHNIKOVA, specialist in plant protection, Novosibirsk
Diseases and pests of bovine
Pests and diseases not only inflict great harm on house plants, reducing their decorative qualities, but can often lead to their death.
Experienced growers know that with careful and proper care, plants become not only more beautiful, but also more resistant to pests and diseases. First of all, the specimens are affected, whose immunity is weakened by unfavorable conditions: irrigation regime (especially cold water overflow), non-observance of light conditions (plants either lack light, or too hot sun burns tender leaves), poor soil and insufficient nutrition, dry air and drafts. Often we bring in the house of uninvited guests with a new plant.
Pests of bulbous
Bulbous house plants are often harmed by worms, arachnid and onion mites, scutes and falsificationand also "omnivorous" aphids, occasionally thrips and whitefly. Amaryllis bugs (Pseudococcus amaryllidis) are small (1-3 mm) insects with an oval or elongated body, clusters of which can be found in the lower part of the leaves and even under the scales.
Females are very fertile and are protected by a wax coating on the surface of the body. It reliably protects the insect from contact chemicals. Males are smaller than females, have a pair of transparent wings, do not live long and do not feed in adulthood. The larvae of the first instar ("vagabonds") are very mobile, quickly spread over neighboring plants. The amaryllis bug only damages hippeastrum and amaryllis. Mealybug (seaside) (Pseudococcus maritimus), unlike amaryllis, does not damage the bulbs, forming colonies only at the base of the leaves. This pest is polyphagous and, in addition to bulbous ones, can be found on citrus fruits, cacti, coleus and many other indoor plants. Outwardly and in terms of the development cycle, this pest is similar to the amaryllis worm.
CEREBRAMS feed on the sap of plants, as a result of which the growth and development of the latter stops. With a strong defeat, the leaves from mirots, the plant may die. Scabbards (Latin Diaspididae). A common and dangerous pest of indoor plants. The species vary in size and color. An attentive florist can find out about a lesion by a scabbard quite easily at the very beginning of the spread of the pest - a sticky liquid (pad) appears on the leaves, which these insects secrete. With a strong defeat, a sooty fungus settles on the pad, the leaves and peduncles turn yellow and dry out prematurely.
Larvae and adult females are harmful. Adult insects are visible to the naked eye as brownish or greenish plaques about 2 mm in diameter, they are still. The larvae (staggers) are greenish or slightly pinkish, small, very mobile, quickly settling along the infected plant and all the neighboring ones. Shields affect mainly zefirantesy, krynumy, valloty, cleavia and hymenocallis. Falseworkers, or coccids (Latin Coccidae) differ from scabbards in that their scutellum or shell is devoid of the waxy layer, more convex, represents the dried out skin of the dead female, protecting eggs or larvae. They are located on peduncles, petioles and veins of leaves. The pest is most often found on the clefts, amaryllis and hippeastrum.
The development of scales, pseudocols and worms is promoted by dry hot air, dust on leaves, heavy soil, inadequate nutrition and watering.
To combat worms and shields growers often try to use improvised means, for example, infusions of some plants, green and laundry soap. But all this is ineffective, because these insects are protected by a shield and do not even respond to contact pesticides. It is recommended to use systemic insecticides against them, which act upon getting into the sap of plants - "Aktara", "Biot-lin", "Iskra Zolotaya", "Commander", "Sonet +", "Zubr", etc. These drugs are diluted according to instructions and spill the potting soil with them. If the insect infestation is strong, you can additionally spray the plants with a prepared solution - against the larvae-vagrants. The drug "Doctor" {8 arrows-briquettes) is even easier to use - it is enough to bury the arrow-briquette into the soil at a distance of 2-3 cm from the stem of the plant and water well. The protective effect lasts for at least two months.
Onion mite (Rhizoglyphus echinopus) is polyphagous and damages most bulbous plants, as well as plants with rhizomes, tubers and other succulent underground organs. Harms the hippeastrum most of all. It is a soil mite about 1 mm in size, yellowish-white, translucent. Larvae and adults are harmful, which eat up the bottom of the bulbs, roots and scales - both during the growth period and during the dormant period during storage. Plants stop growing, leaves turn yellow and die off, bulbs rot and do not hold well in the soil. Spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) well known to lovers of indoor plants. Of bulbous loves more zefirantes, wallot and hippeastrum.
When infected with a spider mite, white dots appear on the surface of the leaf, which eventually turn into yellowish spots. At the base of the leaves you can see a white thin spider web. The leaves lose the turgor, wither and die. The mites are small (about 0,5 mm), translucent, yellowish-greenish. The rapid spread of the pest contributes to dry air in the room, stressful situations.
Among ticks that harm the room bulbous, you can sometimes come across a red flat tick, or greenhouse plane (Brevipalpus obovatus)... This mite differs from the spider mite in its smaller size, red color and the fact that it does not form cobwebs. The main sign of damage to plants with fleshy leaves is the finely split surface of the upper part of the leaf blade. To combat ticks Acaricides or insecticides are used. These are "Fitoverm", "Akarin", "Agravertin", "Kleschevit", "Aktellik" (less preferable, since the 2nd class of danger for humans). New generation drugs have proven themselves well: "Bankol", "Oberon", "Apollo" (against eggs and larvae), "Nissoran", "Sunmight". They last longer on the surface of leaves, have a longer protective period and a low (3-4) hazard class for humans. These drugs can be purchased mainly through online stores.
Also harm bulbous: aphids - small sedentary translucent insects that prefer shoots and buds; thrips - dark small mobile insects with a fusiform body; whitefly - small winged insects with white wax wings. These insects often come from outside during the warmer months, and most houseplants are to their taste. Therefore, it is important to regularly inspect your plants and periodically wash the leaves. Well, if they "missed", and the pests have multiplied strongly, then the vast majority of systemic and contact insecticides work well against them. Only when buying, give preference to drugs that are safer for humans with a 3-4 class of hazard. Glue color traps can be used against whitefly and mushroom gnats, whose larvae can damage the bulbs of weakened plants.
Reference by topic: Autumn planting of bulbous
Diseases of bulbous flowers
The main diseases of indoor bulbous plants are fusarium, stagonosporosis and anthracnose. Stagonosporosis, or red fungus burn, affects all parts of the plant - roots, bulb, leaves and flower arrows. It is found on amaryllis, hippeastrum, less often on clivia. On diseased plants
appear elongated reddish purple spots. Damaged tissue softens, then dries up and cracks, ulcers are formed. In places of destruction, the leaf is torn, the flower arrows are broken, the bulbs rot and die. The development of the disease contributes to excessive watering and sudden temperature changes. Sick plants infect adjacent ones, but the disease persists on bulbs. With insignificant damage, plants grow weakly, but do not bloom. Sometimes an arrow, when it appears from the bulb, dies.
It is quite difficult to deal with this disease. Diseased leaves are cut off, the bulbs are treated with fungicides. Contact fungicides can be used: "Abiga-Peak", "Hom">, "Maxim", "Rovral", etc. The contact-systemic preparations "Kuprolux", "Ordan", "Proton" are characterized by greater efficiency and longer protection. you can use the system "Previkur" and "Speed". However, the best defense against this disease is healthy planting material. Fusarium (root rot) is a fungal disease in which the plant withers and dries up, the roots rot and die off. Mycelium of pink shades appears on damaged tissues. The development of the disease is facilitated by waterlogging, sudden changes in temperature, poor soils.
Severely affected plants are destroyed. With a weak development of the disease, they are watered with solutions of the preparations "Rovral", "Maxim". For prevention, you can recommend bio-preparations "Fito sporin M", "Trichodermin", "Glyokladin", "Albit" and "Alirin". Anthracnose is a fungal disease that most often affects weakened or mechanically damaged plants. It appears as dark, depressed, rounded spots on the leaves and in dark brown streaks at the ends. The spots grow, becoming light in the center and reddish along the edge. Leaves die off. The disease is promoted by high temperature, as well as increased humidity of the air and substrate.
Control measures - removal of affected leaves and treatment with the above fungicides.
I would like to emphasize that prevention is ultimately more effective than treatment, and a plant that has optimal conditions for life is capable of resisting most pests and diseases.
© Tatiana KUSHNIKOVA, plant protection specialist, Novosibirsk
MEDICAL USEFUL PROPERTIES OF LUNKS
For a long time, people have been using the power of plants to treat many diseases, maintain and promote health, skin care for the face and body. Along with wild-growing and garden healers, many bulbous houseplants also have healing properties.
Plants, which will be discussed further, are mostly poisonous, and some even deadly poisonous when ingested, which requires careful handling.
Hippeastrum
It has long been proven that the majority of Amaryllis, in addition to unusually spectacular beautiful flowers, have another useful property. These plants heal the air in the room, highlighting phytoncides. Their phytoncides are much stronger than in garlic or onions, despite the weaker odor. And the juice of these plants, in particular hippeastrum, has a pronounced antibacterial and antiviral effect, so its leaves are used to treat wounds, including purulent. To do this, a piece of hippeastrum leaf is triturated, applied to the wound, covered with a film and a bandage is applied. Children are used with caution, since the juice can cause irritation to the delicate skin.
Amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna)
Also contains a large amount of alkaloid lycorina, which when ingested (if suddenly someone wants to try the bulb) causes diarrhea, vomiting and damage to the kidneys. Its large doses are a strong poison. But at the same time tincture from the amaryllis has long been used to treat joint diseases (rheumatism, arthritis, arthrosis, osteochondrosis). It is prepared as follows: the leaves are cut into pieces by 1-2 cm, stacked in a jar and poured with vodka. Insist in a dark place 10 days. Lubricate the affected joints 2-3 times a day. The course of treatment 3 months, then break 4 weeks. Instead of leaves, bulbs can be used (in autumn, after blossoming). Tincture relieves pain and swelling, facilitates movement.
Asinus Crinum (Crinum asiaticum)
Also used in folk medicine, its leaves are crushed and applied as compresses from headache, heat, radiculitis, in the treatment of various tumors and skin diseases. Bulbs of krynum are highly poisonous, therefore, when carrying out work with the plant, precautions must be observed.
Hyacinthus orientalis
It is believed that the hyacinth blooming on the windowsill brings happiness to the house. Tincture of hyacinth flowers on alcohol can be used to rub the diseased joints, and diluted twice with boiled cold water - as a wonderful lotion for face and body. It smooths and aromatizes the skin well, eliminating small wrinkles, protects from the harmful effects of the atmosphere. Tincture recipe: 50 g of hyacinth flowers are poured into 0,5 l of alcohol, insisted for 10 days. Filter before use.
Narcissus
The medicinal properties of the daffodil have been known since ancient Greece, where healing aromatic oil was made from its flowers. Oriental medicine used daffodil leaves for headaches, sciatic nerve diseases, joint pains, hemorrhoids, and also as an anesthetic and wound healing agent. To date, traditional healers are preparing a decoction of daffodil bulbs for the treatment of adenoma and inflammatory processes of the prostate, as well as male infertility. And women are advised to infuse daffodil leaves to wash their breasts against mastitis and tumors. I would like to remind that the ingestion of any funds from the daffodil should take place under the guidance and under the supervision of specialists - the plant is poisonous, and self-medication is dangerous.
Zephyranthes largeiflora (Zephyranthes grandiflora)
The healing qualities of this plant was appreciated even by the official medicine. In the US, drugs from zephyranthes are treated with diabetes and tuberculosis, used to suppress cancerous tumors. The healing properties are due to the presence in the leaves and bulbs of zephyranthes of the biologically active alkaloids of lycorin, nerigene, hemanthidine, etc. The people use the plant also for the treatment of liver (hepatitis), with abscesses.
Snowdrop (Galanthus)
For therapeutic purposes, use bulbs, from which the alkaloid galantamine is extracted. It is used in official medicine for the treatment of diseases of the nervous system, it is capable of enhancing the secretion of the salivary and sweat glands, as well as the intestinal peristalsis. Alkaloid galantamine is prescribed for muscular progressive degeneration, with motor disorders associated with neuritis, polyneuritis, radiculitis, with residual effects after cerebral circulation disorders. In complex therapy, it is indicated in the treatment of acute poliomyelitis and cerebral palsy.
Lilium candidum
Bulbs and fresh leaves have anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. Shredded bulbs are applied to places where the inflammatory process is going on, to relieve swelling, and flowers boiled in milk - to boils. Bulb alcohol tincture is used externally for rheumatism and radiculitis, inside - as an expectorant for diseases of the respiratory system and as a tonic; there are recommendations for using this tincture to suppress cancerous tumors. Tincture recipe: 6-7 chopped lily bulbs in a three-liter jar are poured with vodka or alcohol and insisted in the dark for 2 weeks. It is used for bronchitis and as a tonic for 20-30 drops in the morning before breakfast; in oncology - 30 ml 3 times a day 2 hours before meals, before eating a small piece of butter. It is recommended that you drink half the dose of tincture at the first dose - to check the reaction of the body and avoid possible poisoning or an allergic reaction. Tincture is contraindicated in children and pregnant women.
Oil from petals of white lily is used for rheumatic pains in the joints, treatment of burns, wounds, hemorrhoids, with muscle pain. It returns elasticity and beauty to the skin, relieves pigment spots.
The recipe for cooking: flowers (petals) are laid in a bowl of dark glass, poured with olive or peach butter and insist in the darkness of 2 a week, occasionally shaking. Store the oil in the refrigerator.
It is very useful nutritious rejuvenating mask for dry and fading skin, made from yolk, 1 tsp. honey, with the addition of lemon juice and white lily oil. It is applied to the skin of the face and neck for 20 min., Then rinse with warm water.
Poultry-tail bird (Omithogalum caudatum)
Or Indian (Chinese) onions are used only as an external remedy, since the plant is very poisonous and can burn even the skin. The poultry farmer is considered to be the best home remedy for the treatment of chronic radiculitis and joint diseases. To do this, use old leaves with dried ends. A piece of a sheet about 2 cm long rubs the sore spots and immediately wraps them with a woolen shawl. You can also prepare a decoction: chopped leaves are poured cold water at the rate of 1: 10, tightly closed and left overnight. In the morning, bring to a boil over low heat, cool and filter. They are used only externally for rheumatic pains, all kinds of tumors and growths.
This plant is also used as an anesthetic for headache (rubbing plant juice in the whiskey and the back of the head), bruises and abscesses, skin diseases (apply bandages with gruel from the leaf). Tincture.
Fresh leaves are ground, placed in a jar and poured with vodka 1: 10. Insist in a warm dark place about 2-x weeks, then store in the refrigerator. Tincture is used for pains in the joints, radiculitis, polyarthritis, fungus of legs, used against spurs, calluses and warts.
Be healthy!
© Tatyana KUSHNIKOVA, Novosibirsk
Attention! Before using any folk remedies, be sure to consult your doctor.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Erythrina (photo) - coral tree: care and planting
- Plants with unusual flowers - photo, name and description
- Plants of the aroid family - photos, names and description
- Winter-bearing plants (description + photo)
- Orchids Vandy: care for these flowers in the room and their varieties
- Hippeastrum (photo) purchase landing and care at home
- Ceropegia Wood (photo) - care
- Home care for citrus fruits - to blossom and bear fruit
- Avocado (photo) landing and care at home
- Caring for lemon and banana growing in room conditions
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Hemanthus white-flowered In autumn, watering is significantly reduced. In October-January there is a period of relative rest of the plant at a temperature of + 12-14 degrees. This is preparing it for winter flowering. Bulbs bloom at the age of 3 years. Substrate for hemanthus: soddy land, leafy, humus, sand (1:1:1:1). It is important not to overmoisten the soil in order to avoid rotting of the bulbs. They are best planted in wide, shallow pots.
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After transplanting, eucharis leaves began to curl. What about him?
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The curling of the edges of the leaves in plants is most often associated with disruption of the root system. The roots on the bulbs were probably damaged during transplantation. Eucharis does not tolerate the violation of the integrity of the root ball, so it should be transplanted only by the transshipment method, increasing the size of the pot and adding a little fresh soil to the bottom and sides. But even with a careful transplant, minor damage is possible. If the leaves have not lost their turgor and there are no brown spots on them, then the roots have not suffered much and will soon recover.
To help the plant, you can treat it 1-2 times with a solution of "Zircon" (4 drops per 1 liter of water): spray the leaves once a week and spill the soil. Frequent sprinkling of foliage with water is helpful. But excessive watering will only hurt.
Natalia SEMENOVA, biologist, collector, Moscow
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My friend and I got one for two bulbs Drimiopsis botryoides.
How quickly she will have babies? We want to multiply the plant.
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My copy of this drimiopsis is about seven years old. Once there was also one onion. When planting, it is almost completely closed, without pricking the neck. Babies appeared during the year. So you do not have to wait long!
The maternal bulb eventually lifted above the ground, and the onion bulb on the surface - only leaves. To disconnect them, you must remove all the "nest" from the pot, separate the desired number of children, if possible without destroying the clod of earth on their roots, and plant them in small containers. The children get along well.
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Well, I have a plant with wide leaves (pictured). It blossomed only once with white flowers, like lilies. In the spring of 201 b year, all the 4 bulbs were transplanted into a larger pot. When the window was opened, the leaves wilted, I cut them. Then new leaflets appeared. How should I take care of it so that it will blossom?
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This euharis
Handsome man can be capricious and do not bloom for years, so you need to consider his requirements.
First, do not rush to plant the bulbs. Eucharis begins to bloom when the pot is densely filled with daughter bulbs. The grown plant is transplanted once in 3-4 year with complete replacement of the soil, then it is possible to separate the children. The optimal soil substrate is a ready-made special or a mixture of leaf, compost, loamy soil and coarse-grained sand (4: 2: 1: 2). The bulb is embedded so that its tip is at the level of the substrate.
WHAT IS NEEDED FOR CARE?
Oriental or north-western windows are preferable for eucharis. On the southern and south-western leaves in the spring can get burns.
The plant does not like heat: the optimum temperature in winter is + 15-17 degrees, in summer - + 22 degrees, for growth - not less than + 18 degrees, with sharp and frequent drops the flowers are smaller.
Water the Amazon lily moderately, after drying the upper layer of the substrate, avoiding drying and waterlogging. Leaves are often sprayed with standing water at room temperature, except for the flowering period.
Feeding begins after 1-1,5 months after planting and only in spring and summer - 2 once a month with full complex fertilizer, for example, "Kemira".
WHEN FLOWERING
Eucharis can bloom 2-3 times a year: in autumn-winter, in May and August. For winter flowering in August, reduce watering and remove the pot from the plant in a dark place.
Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Candidate of Biology, Sciences, Yalta
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After the final fading of the foliage, the bulbs of spring-spring crops (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths) are excavated and laid out to dry in the sun. Then they need to be cleaned of the earth, the remains of foliage and placed in dry boxes or boxes for storage for planting in the fall.
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February is the time to get the bulbs of crocuses, hyacinths, tulips and daffodils from the refrigerator, which we will drive out by March 8. To make it work, we offer a list of the most common problems:
Only one leaves are formed, and the flower bud does not appear at all. The reason is that for distillation you have chosen too small young bulbs.
The bud appeared, but remained underdeveloped, the leaves did not turn to the end. Here the reason lies in poor rooting due to a violation of the temperature regime, as well as with sparse or too little watering.
Formed "blind" buds. There may be several reasons at once. Firstly, the temperature regimes during the rooting of the bulbs were not observed, the cooling periods were not correct. Secondly, the temperature is too high.
s Peduncles appeared, but the flowers hung. The reason is the lack of calcium. Also, flowers can wilt if the soil is too acidic.
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On the surface of the soil, an incomprehensible white coating appeared in the flower pots. It seems that the irrigation regime did not change, no new fertilizing was used. Why can such a raid appear?
Nina PROSVETOVD. city of Vladimir
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White plaque on the surface of the soil may appear after watering - if the pot also has such a plaque, then this is most likely salt. In tap water, various compounds are always present, depending on the hardness, the salts of iron and calcium. It is necessary to clear the pot of plaque, replace the topsoil. Watering is recommended with filtered water.
White coating can also be a consequence of the development of mold due to excessive watering. In this case, it is necessary to replace the top layer of the soil and reduce watering.
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Flowers in pantyhose
In order for my house plants to grow well, I make a garlic immunostimulant. 5 cloves of garlic cut into 4 pieces and pour 1 l of boiling water. I insist 20 min. This will be concentrated fertilizer. For watering plants I breed garlic infusion in the ratio 1 a. l. on 1 l of water.
And I also know an unusual way of transplanting indoor plants. I take old unwanted kapron tights, cut and. into parts. slightly higher than the height of the pot. I tie one edge into a knot and lay a new pot on the bottom, and wrap the edges behind the pot walls. Then I plant the soil and plant the plants. To the edges of pantyhose not sticking out, cut them off, leaving "ears", which I fill with earth. Now, during the next transplant, you can easily remove the flower from the pot (pulling the "ears") without damaging the roots.
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How to protect bulbous plants from mice?
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Under the code name "mice" are harmed by different rodents. In particular, in addition to the mice themselves, a common, or red, voles (or just a shorter tail and a dull muzzle) causes great harm, as well as a water vole, which is often called a water rat. The latter very vigorously eats up also the roots of young seedlings.
A hit of popular councils for allegedly successful struggle against them is Vishnevsky's ointment and casing with daffodils. With some lag, there is a recommendation to plant imperial hazel grouse, and already forgotten tips are being weaved in the tail to bury smelly fish waste or rags soaked in kerosene. One can say about the latter that not a single “stinker” is able to work all winter long. If it does, then a week or two, no more. But the rest are no more effective.
Collectors use planting in mesh boxes and special containers, as well as in "prepared" bottles (usually five-liter) from drinking water. They cut off the top and make drainage holes in the bottom. But the tanks are buried in such a way that the edges rise slightly above the ground. Only then can rodents not get to the contents. Finished onion baskets, buried deep along with the sides, are visited with mice with great pleasure and sometimes are gnawed together with bulbs.
Effectively reduce the number of rodents can be annual (in the autumn, when the cats were taken from cottages, which can grab a poisoned rodent) by disposing of poisoned baits. But try to buy poison, calculated not only on rats and mice, but also on a mandatory basis and on voles. And they have to be specially looked for, unfortunately.
It is even better to lay the poison regularly throughout the year. But remember that the number of rodents is noticeably reduced not immediately.
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Delicate lilies of the valley
Garden lilies of the valley, in my opinion, are much more beautiful than their forest counterparts. The leaves are wider and longer, and the flowers are larger. Garden lilies of the valley are not listed in the Red Book, which means that they can be collected for bouquets as much as you like.
It is best to plant lilies of the valley in September-October. Focus on temperature, but most importantly - on the state of flower leaves. If they began to turn yellow, then it is time for a transplant. Keep in mind that lilies of the valley love shade and partial shade. They will feel great near the wall of the house or under fruit trees. Moisture is perhaps the most important thing for these plants! Without abundant watering, they will not bloom. But it’s important not to overdo it so that the soil does not become swampy. But light, loose earth for plants is what you need.
In addition to regular watering, young lilies of the valley will be happy with organic fertilizers. Mineral can also be applied to flowers planted at least a year ago.