Garden flowerbeds (photo) or flower beds in the "garden"
Contents ✓
- ✓ Beautiful beds are the key to success
- ✓ NORTHERN CUTTING ON A LITTLE SITE
- ✓ Garden-bed in the country: give space fantasy
- ✓ Choosing the right plants for the garden in the garden
- ✓ We decorate the airspace of the garden and giving
- ✓ What is more decorative - determinant or superdeterminant tomato hybrids?
How to make a flower garden
Beautiful beds are the key to success
The main secret of turning an ordinary garden into a flowerbed is organizing beautiful beds so that your garden looks attractive at any time (even without plants). And for this you need to clearly plan everything.
To begin with, draw a not very complex pattern of squares, rectangles, circles, or other shapes on a piece of paper in a cage, and then transfer the resulting pattern to a prepared (freshly scooped and raked) pad using roulette, stakes and cords. Alternatively, simply plan it with a hood.
To make it convenient to care for the beds, it is advisable to make them no wider than 1,2 m (you can reach the middle on both sides with a hand tool on a short and long handle) with a ratio of length and width of about 1: 3 or 2: 5. (Practice shows that the optimal width of the beds is 0,8-1 m, so that it is easy to reach the middle by hand. - Approx.ed.) Do not forget to leave tracks at least 40-50 cm wide on both sides of the beds. They can be sodded, paved with tiles, stone or wooden saw cuts. If the garden is quite large and you need a car, the width of the tracks is made at least 60 cm.
Depending on the idea, the edges of each garden bed can be made upright, with boards reinforced with wood cuts (spits), wattle fences or pebbles. Very beautiful looking beds, planted along the perimeter of a low-cropped hedge of boxwood, spiraea of Japanese or Bumald, snow leopard or compact perennials (asters curbs, clearings of prominent, santolines or spicy herbs: thyme, sage, rosemary, lavender). It is very interesting to look and, what is important, give more harvest from the same area of multi-tiered beds and pyramids.
Plants with a compact root system can be grown in flower pots and containers, placing them in free places. So, with a small amount of land (but, of course, provided there is sufficient watering and regular top dressing) many varieties of determinant tomatoes, low peppers, cucumbers, and garden strawberries are put up with. In addition to expand the area of the garden allow vertical trellis and trellis. At a height beans, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc. will feel great. Of course, the supports should be stable enough not to collapse under the weight of the plants. Such green walls will also play the role of wind protection, which is important for areas located “on seven winds”. Just remember that tall structures must be placed so that they do not obscure the rest of the landing.
When the beds are ready, you can start planting or planting vegetables and salad crops. True, here, too, has its own tricks. Vegetable and green cultures in the ornamental garden are placed depending on the color of the leaves, the size of the plants, and their demand for food. And of course, respecting the crop rotation.
See also: Edible landscaping = vegetable bed-flower bed
NORTHERN CUTTING ON A LITTLE SITE
Vegetable crops can be divided into three groups.
1. Very fertile soil is required for all pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, patissons, etc.), late and erednepozdnim varieties of white cabbage, as well as color and Brussels, celery, corn, spinach and asparagus. They are planted on the most well-fertilized since autumn beds. Cabbage and beetroots (or spinach, or celery, or dill), pumpkins and sunflowers, cucumbers and corn well coexist together.
2. Less demanding are early cabbage, kohlrabi, tomatoes, eggplant, beets, carrots, beans, leeks and onions, garlic, potatoes, sunflowers. These will grow well on the "beds of the second year." It will be successful to combine onions with carrots, radishes or greens (especially basil and monard) with tomatoes or peppers, eggplant or tomatoes with beans and thyme, cauliflower with oregano, beets with salad or onions.
3. The most unpretentious are peas, beans, salads, sorrel, radishes, turnips, radishes, herbs.
In autumn, after harvesting, every year it is worth sowing sidrate: this will improve the soil structure, and fertilizers will need less. If the soil is acidic, then it can be limed before planting cabbage, beet or spinach.
There are pluses in combined landings. Firstly, this is perhaps one of the few agrotechnical techniques that does not cause soil exhaustion. Secondly, a bouquet of aromas confuses pests, it is more difficult for them to get to the desired “object”, and thirdly, it allows a larger yield from a smaller area, because the aisles of slow-growing crops are not empty.
Here, sprinter crops can be successfully grown: annual greens, radishes, onions on feathers, and late-ripening cabbage varieties are successfully compacted with cauliflower. But here it is important to take into account the preferences of the plants themselves. So, legumes are not the best neighbors for tomatoes, garlic and onions, but watercress for carrots. Potatoes are not friends with cucumbers and celery, tomatoes with cucumbers and kohlrabi, onions with radishes, and cabbage with tomatoes. Do not plant beans on a cabbage bed, and next to cucumbers - parsley, celery or keep dill for a long time (until flowering). Fennel and wormwood, and individualistic plants at all - their secretions suppress the growth of any culture adjacent to them.
And the last one. When making a planting plan, it is important to consider the impact of last year’s crops on the current planting So, vegetables belonging to the same botanical family (in particular, nightshade, cruciferous, pumpkin, etc.) are the most undesirable predecessors. They need to be returned to their previous place after 3-4 years. This means that the records - what and where was planted - are worth keeping, because the whole ego is forgotten very quickly.
Garden-bed in the country: give space fantasy
Our gardeners are accustomed to sow seeds only by straight longitudinal rows. This method of seeding is justified for the mechanical processing of row spacing (tractor, cultivator, motor block, etc.). And on the ornamental garden you can sow seeds with patterns, circles or waves, along and across, you can even write words. Believe me, even shoots will look original and beautiful!
However, in order to turn the garden not only in words but also in fact turned into a flower bed and looked attractive for a long time, it is necessary to carefully approach the selection of varieties by planting in the foreground or around the perimeter of a row of plants with bright leaves, forming compact bushes, for example parsley, savory, thyme , leaf salads, onion-fast, or chives, etc., you immediately
select the beds, give the garden a well-defined shape. One of the options can be a curb of varieties of unmistaken remontant strawberry varieties Rügen, Rugia, Baron Solemacher (all of them unpretentious and productive). Bright green small bushes with white flowers and bright crimson berries (small, but fragrant and sweet) look great, planted at a distance of about 30 cm from each other. So they will not interfere with each other, and it will be convenient for you to harvest and take care of the plants. With good care, the repair patch of strawberry regularly fructifies 3-5 years. You just need to pour the ground and mulch under the bushy undergrowth from below.
Giving a vegetable garden with a line of salad or spicy crops (preferably vegetating throughout the season or perennial), you can plant seedlings of vegetables in the pockets formed. But do not get carried away, do not forget about the final size of an adult plant both in height and width! Otherwise, the landing will look untidy.
Even in a small area, you can grow a large assortment of vegetables. To do this, they organize a green conveyor: after snow melts, early crops are planted - radishes, green ones, or seeds of cold-resistant crops are sown before winter. After harvesting the first crop, fertilizers are applied to the released beds and seedlings of heat-loving crops are planted (cucumbers, zucchini, cauliflower and broccoli, tomatoes, eggplant, pepper, etc.) or potatoes are planted.
Reference by topic: Flower bed with own hands
Choosing the right plants for the garden in the garden
The best varieties are vegetables with a compact crown and smaller fruits: then the conceived ornament will show up better and the plants do not
will muffle each other. Small-fruited yielding tomatoes and peppers, aubergines and chard (fine beetroots, red-petiolate varieties are most effective) are suitable. However, this does not mean that you can not plant flowers in the garden. Moreover, many of them, in particular viola (violet), chrysanthemum, nasturtium, daisy, calendula, can be eaten, used for decorating salads and as a spicy seasoning for dishes and home-made preparations.
According to the external appearance, the plants are selected in the same way as in the flower garden. Near well look plants with large leaves (cabbage, chard, eggplant) and small openwork (carrots, dill, arugula), bright green (sorrel, tomatoes, cucumbers) and purple (purple basil varieties Osmin Purple, Red Rubin and Purpurascens, cauliflower, lettuce Lollo Rossa etc.).
By the way, decorative cabbage is a decoration of any garden. She just transforms it in late summer - early fall, when the main crop is already harvested. The names of the varieties speak for themselves: Lace mosaic. Winter fairy tale F1, Coral Queen F1, Peacock Tail F1, Purple Pigeon F1, etc. Seedlings of this cabbage, like other species, are planted in the ground in May. It works best on fertile soils with good watering. But other types of cabbage - Brussels, Chinese, broccoli, kohlrabi - with proper care, are very elegant.
We decorate the airspace of the garden and giving
Arches, trellis and palmettes are an original addition to the flowerbed garden. The entrance to the garden can be decorated with a beautiful arch, twisting it with climbing vegetable plants, such as beans or a decorative pumpkin. Small pumpkin fruits of the most varied shapes and colors will decorate your garden, and later on your home interior. Only use well-ripened, clean, healthy and not damaged by frost fruits for drying, cutting them only with the stalk (otherwise rot). Keep in mind that they are pollinated with other pumpkins, zucchini and squash, so if you plan to get your seeds, you will have to protect the flowers from pollinating insects with protective caps. -In the southern regions, hyacinth beans are also sown, giving whips up to 3 m high. First, bright flowers with a delicate aroma appear on them, and then green scapula pods, from which soups and side dishes are prepared.
The final touch of the ornamental garden can be the curtains of figuratively formed fruit trees in the form of palmettes, tapestries, cordons, or maybe you want to impress your friends with arbosculpture? The whimsically intertwined trunks and branches of living trees will attract attention with their unusual shape all year round.
In general, to make a garden decoration of a site is not so difficult. And he will require no more care than the usual.
See also: Neighborhood of flowers on a small flower bed
What is more decorative - determinant or superdeterminant tomato hybrids?
Determinantsimply put, medium-sized - Agata, White pouring, Explosion, Oak, Sanka, Biathlon F1, Hector F1 (he is astonishing for his height, large-fruited), Pink Fang, Pink Matryoshka, capable of tying the fruit even under adverse conditions, etc. - grow to 50-60 cm. You do not need to pinch the top - there is a flower brush at the top. These varieties and hybrids differ in friendly, early, but at the same time relatively long fruiting (1-2 months). Often they need support: under the weight of the fruit, the shoots break. These varieties and hybrids must be stepsoned, forming in 2, less often in 3 stems. In the first case, the stepson is left, growing under the first flower brush, and in the second - another, appearing, respectively, under the second. Plant them according to the scheme 50 × 50 cm, i.e. 7 plants per 1 square. m
Superdeterminant - Alpha, Balcony miracle, Bonsai, Zolotnichok, Pinocchio, Garden pearl and others. These are miniature bushes 25-45 cm high. Many of them can be grown in a seedlingless way. For 1 square. m have 9 bushes, that is, the planting scheme is -50 × 40 cm. These varieties are weakly branched, and do not need to pinch them, and they give the crop very quickly, literally 20-30 days from the start of fruiting. At this stage, the plants can be fed, and they will give lateral shoots with flower tassels. However, most often they are cleaned, and salads, daikon, radish and other crops of a short day are sown on the vacated space.
© Author: V. ROY, landscape designer
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- Plants for planting in curbs and edging flower gardens
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- Decorate the cottage, a garden site in the style of the country
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- “Flower garden series” at the dacha with your own hands
- Scheme of a beautiful flower garden - planting plan and plants (PHOTO)
- Drought-resistant flowers for the flower garden - overview
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Gravel flower beds
Usually the space between the flowers in large flower beds is filled with green grass. Only care it requires no less than the flowers themselves: and watering, and weeding, and haircut. For me, it's easier to replace grass with gravel mulch.
At the arrangement of gravel beds, a layer of turf is first removed. Then the cleared area is lined with a thick film. It is necessary that the gravel is not pressed into the soil and does not mix with it. In addition, the film prevents the growth of weeds. In the right places on the film, make incisions crosswise. In them, then dig out the wells for the seedlings. And when planting the plants, mash the layer of gravel 7-10 on the film.
On such a flowerbed I grow in my house mainly drought-resistant plants: cleansers, carnations, lavender, sunflower, etc. I pour every bush from the watering can, which is quite laborious. So I spend a couple of times a month.
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Garden flower garden
My plot is standard 6 acres. It is difficult to plan such a territory beautifully, taking into account the hangers of buildings and the rules for correlating landings and buildings with neighboring borders. More or less nice options are obtained only from those who donate the garden. But I wanted beauty and at least a small harvest - and I found a solution!
The beds on my plot are made in the form of flower beds! They either stretch along the paths, or frame the buildings, or are scattered in the middle of the lawn. Most often, the distant from the viewer line is occupied by tall flowers or climbing plants. In the latter case, it can be beans, peas, cucumbers.
The second line of flowerbeds is vegetables. At the same time, I mix the edible cabbage with ornamental cabbage, and in rows of vegetables I plant an unpretentious flower every meter,
Lendulu or Marigolds. They add a decorative effect and protect vegetables from some pests. The first line closest to the viewer is undersized flowers or leafy greens: parsley, sorrel, spinach.
Even the potato grows on the flowerbeds. His bushes in bloom are very elegant, and once he was considered an ornamental plant. Under it, I move round flower beds on the lawn. In the middle I plant a tall sunflower, then two circles of potatoes and a border of marigold or cineraria. It is easy to take care of such plantings, and after harvesting the potatoes the border continues to please up to the very frosts.
As a result, under the vegetables, the land is occupied no less than that of its neighbors, the crops rejoice, and my vegetable garden looks beautiful!
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I grow multi-colored squash - and yellow, and white, and green, and even variegated. To have enough vegetables for our entire large family, I grow them in accordance with all the rules. I plant squash after siderates, as well as onions, carrots or cabbage. In the fall of 1 square. m of such beds, the husband makes 6-8 kg of manure or compost and 50 g of superphosphate, then digs the soil.
This seed in the spring, when the freezing frost stops. I lower the seed by 2 to a depth of 4 cm in one well through 60 cm, cover the bed with agrotex. When the seedlings grow up a bit, I take it off and leave the strongest one in each hole in 1. But under the non-woven fabric, the patissons grow better. Therefore, it is advisable to leave it, and in the flowering period, open the plants only for a day, for pollination. Since that time, I begin to feed the squash by stirring 10 l of water in 1 l of manure. Sometimes in 10 l of water add 40 g superphosphate, 30 g urea, 25 g of potassium sulfate (or 200 g of ash) and use this solution. Additional fertilizing alternate and spend them every 2-3 weeks.
I pour in warm weather with warm water and under the root, so as not to provoke decay.