Increased yield of tomatoes
Contents ✓
How to increase tomato crops in a greenhouse - methods and techniques
Tomatoes - grateful material
As a culture, tomatoes are very plastic and diverse in comparison, for example, with cucumbers. Therefore, the methods of their cultivation can be diverse. So, about ten years ago I grew tall tomatoes in a greenhouse, alternating them with stunted ones. In this case, they get along well in the sense that each plant receives the portion of sunlight that it needs. I liked this method very much, but I had to abandon it, because I did not want to occupy the land with less productive determinant plants.
But is it necessary to engage in increasing productivity? What’s easier - he built an additional greenhouse or bought a country greenhouse, and the problem of providing the family with tomatoes was solved. But most often with a shortage of land there is nowhere to build a greenhouse. And even a four-meter arched greenhouse with the cost of construction will pay off no earlier than in ten years. And who needs unprofitable vegetables. So, we must use all the possibilities of obtaining the greatest number of fruits from a smaller area.
В last article about growing a tomato in Karelia told about the experiments on the launch of radical and additional stitches on the stalk, late grafting of bushes. They were held in 2013 year. And in 2014, the emphasis was on the thickened density of plantings (twice as much as conventional) and the vaccination of bushes with grafts of different varieties.
Reference by topic: Caring for tomatoes from A to Z
The thickened planting of tomatoes
This experiment was conducted on an area of 3,3 square meters. m. In total, planted 18 bushes of indeterminate proven hybrids. Shaped them into only one stem. As a result, I received 90 kg of fruit on this piece, from each bush - 5, and from 1 square. m - 27 kg. Usually, from one bush when forming in two stems, the same varieties gave 7 kg (at a rate of 3 bushes per 1 sq. M) or 21 kg from 1 sq. m. Thus, the yield increased by 28%.
Is this a lot or a little? If there was a large area of cultivation, this would give a considerable increase in the yield. With a small area, the increase is insignificant. And given that with a dense planting, the time required to plant plants, remove stepchildren increases dramatically, then the meaning of using such a method is lost.
Vaccination of tomato bushes
The purpose of this operation is to increase the nutritional ability (two roots instead of one) of the root system and thereby increase the yield of bushes. Usually I plant two seedlings of different varieties in one hole, then they are inoculated with a simple stock. I cut off the rootstock, leaving only two brushes on it, so that it mainly feeds the bush grown from the scion.
The experiment was based on the fact that the hybrids differ from each other: some have powerful roots, others differ in excellent taste, others bring large fruits.
Given this, I made up different combinations (the first is the scion, the second is the stock): Titanic-Octopus, Octopus-Fatalist, Fatalist-Octopus, Marfa-Octopus. I really liked the vaccine results. The fruits were much larger than with conventional technology - growing without vaccination in two stems. The total yield also increased. If in ordinary years I collected about 10 kg of tomatoes from 70 bushes, then last year the same number of bushes produced 100 kg of fruits. Productivity increased by 45%! Even in a small area, such an increase is quite substantial. This made it possible to put on sale an extra amount of tomatoes. The people who bought them were very pleased with the taste, they came for tomatoes this year, when I began to vaccinate different hybrids, not on the 8th order of the experiment, but on an ongoing basis. So, based on my experience, I recommend summer residents to master the vaccination of tomato bushes - this is not so troublesome, but effective and interesting.
Increase the capacity for tomato seedlings
In this season I started growing seedlings not in 1 liter packs, but in 1,5-liter containers. The bushes at the expense of this factor turned out to be more powerful, with a more developed sheet device. This also affects the increase in yield. Particularly pleased with the Sprut hybrid.
In the potted substrate, I definitely add crushed moss-sphagnum. Firstly, it makes the soil lighter, and secondly, it increases its permeability to moisture and air. Thirdly, moss disinfects the soil. If this component is in the substrate, then the plants are not afraid of the black leg. ”
I collect the fruits in a plastic bucket, in which I marked out one- and five-gram dashes. So specifically weighing is not required. And if there is an error of 100-150 g - for me it does not matter. And at the exit from the greenhouse there is a stencil with a pencil - two seconds, and the recording is made.
Preserving the freshness of a tomato
In addition to receiving a high yield for me, yes, I think, and other summer residents, it is very important to extend the period of consumption of fresh tomatoes. Therefore, I never remove tomatoes completely from the bushes in late August, and some fruits leave to grow another month. And only in the end of September I harvest completely.
I place the green and small fruits in a grid and lower them in hot water (temperature 50-55 degrees) for 3 minutes - against the top rot. After drying, I put the tomatoes in small boxes with dry moss. I keep these boxes (and it turns out a lot of them), first in the barn on the floor, where it’s pretty cool, then on the floor of the country house, and in November I move 8 loggia of the city apartment. I partly put some fruits in the room, gradually the tomatoes acquire the color inherent in the variety. So we eat fresh tomatoes even in December. The last four fruits cut 8 salad for the New Year. Thus, tomato consumption in our country stretches from July to the end of the year - almost 6 months.
Reference by topic: Ways to get a great harvest of tomato (tomato) - my advice and recommendations
Increasing the yield of tomatoes - results
Briefly I will describe all the stages of work on increasing the yield of tomatoes.
1. I carefully prepare the greenhouse soil, which includes digging, applying full mineral fertilizer and humus and, if there is, perepredevshego manure in the fall. From deep freezing I cover the ground with hay and foliage.
2. When planting seedlings I do a two-time filling of the wells, so I force potted roots to work.
3. I pour the humus under the bushes in the middle of the season, because by this time the surface roots are formed, which requires food.
4. After pouring the humus mulch the ground with hay and moss, so that the air in the greenhouse was drier.
5. To feed the leaves with carbon dioxide put in the greenhouse enamel tank with manure, which I change every month. Manure just releases carbon dioxide.
6. I spend the following receptions when growing tomatoes: the launch of root stepsons, grafting bushes, growing plants in three stems, the launch of additional stepchilds with one or two brushes.
7. I grow very strong seedlings in bulk pots or bags with a capacity of at least 1,5 l.
8. I grow only disease-resistant hybrids that are suitable for our northern region, and differ in different maturation periods. Several times I systematically dealt with the selection of varieties and hybrids of viable and. most importantly, resistant to brown patchiness and phytophthora in the North, in a zone of risky farming with high humidity of atmospheric air. And in Karelia the peto is always wet, so every year the phytophthora rages.
9. And most importantly - a minimum of chemistry and a low cost of production, for which I think over my actions in advance and outline a plan.
On a note:
Methods of soil disinfection
It is often said that the soil for sowing should be sterile, that is, free of harmful microorganisms, pathogens.
However, there are no useful microorganisms in sterile soil. And scientists have long proven that useful microflora helps plants grow better, resist diseases and absorb nutrients.
How to decontaminate the soil?
1 method - thermal. The soil is steamed in a water bath, in the oven or microwave. A simplified method - pouring steep boiling water with potassium permanganate (effective with a small amount of land).
2 way - the use of chemical fungicides. The soil is shed with a solution according to the instructions on the package.
3 way - the use of biological fungicides. These are Alirin, Gamair, Gliocladin, Phi-tosporin, Trichodermin, Bacto-fit, Agate, Planzir, Barrier ,. Barrier, Fitop, Integral.
The fundamental difference in the use of chemical and biological products is that after chemical sowing can be immediately, as soon as the soil slightly dry.
Biological fungicides need to be given time to act. They need to work on soil for 2-3 weeks before sowing and all this time to maintain it moderately wet. After soil treatment by any of the above methods of disinfection, it is desirable to water it with biological preparations containing friendly bacteria, also a couple of weeks before sowing. During this time they will multiply well and will help plants to develop. The following biologics are on sale: East EM-1, Radiance, Baikal EM1.
© Valery G. GORLANOV, Karelia, Petrozavodsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Growing tomatoes - planting and care: my secrets and tips (Nizhny Novgorod)
- Tomato variety "Mongolian dwarf": my reviews
- The best varieties of tomatoes for salting, eating, the largest and smallest
- Spots on tomatoes - reasons and struggle
- Cocktail tomatoes (photo) planting, care and varieties
- Growing tomatoes in pots - what varieties are needed. My reviews about them
- Unusual tomatoes - varieties, photos, description and my reviews
- Tomatoes "bicolor" varieties and my reviews
- Growing tomatoes in pots
- Tomato Striped Cave (photo) - my reviews and growing experience
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TO INCREASE YIELD OF SEEDS OF TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS
For this, for 5-10 days before sowing seeds in the soil or on seedlings, I temper them.
In the piles of falling asleep seeds, on top I put pieces of cotton wool and pour a small amount of water so that cotton wool is soaked with moisture.
I soaked the seeds of cucumbers at room temperature for 6 hours, and tomatoes for a day. During this time, the seeds swell. Then I put them on the lower shelf for 12 hours in the refrigerator. After that I transfer the seeds to the room. After another 12 hours, I put them in the refrigerator again. I move the seeds of cucumbers 4-6 days before planting, tomatoes 10 days. I make sure that they are always in a wet state. It happens that the seeds begin to hatch earlier, then I keep them in the refrigerator for longer than -15 hours.
On my own experience, I was convinced that hardened plants grow stronger, resistant to stress, and their yield is higher.
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Familiar in the dilemma of "watering or not tomatoes" chose the first that, given the size of its tomato plantation, it turned out very expensive. But even more I was surprised by the plants themselves: tomatoes with a thick carpet lie on the ground. No garters and even watering under the root - from a special hose the owner pours them directly on top.
How so?
I grow only medium-ripening determinants, resistant to diseases (especially bacteriosis) hybrids of soil tomatoes.
Now I switched to a hybrid Dino. We call it "groundwater" not only because it is intended for open ground, but also because it can grow without a garter, and do not fear contact with the soil.
Top-dressing on a scale
When the plants take root after planting, I feed them with nitrogen fertilizer to gain mass. Once - enough, because the basis of nutrition of tomatoes is not nitrogen, but potassium. For small country sites, I would advise potassium sulfate, but because of our large area we use cheaper potassium chloride. Also manually along the rows once pour nitrate (not closing, so as not to burn the roots). Foliar top dressings I advise you to do not more often than once a week, and never exceed the concentration of the solution. Especially it is dangerous in the greenhouse - you can salivate the soil, and the leaves will grow to the detriment of the ovaries.
Diseases do not sleep
The mistake of many summer residents is that if the tomato is sick, they often think that it is late blight, and is treated from it. But no less dangerous in the middle band is alternaria. To distinguish them is simple: late blight manifests itself first on the top of the bush, alternaria from below, hitting the growth point.
As soon as you notice the signs of the disease - immediately treat the plants with copper-containing preparations from phytofluorotides (Azotocorbin, Amistad quadris, Reus) or mankotsebovymi from alternaria (Panncoseb, Mancozeb). The amount of spraying depends on the weather conditions. In this dry year for phytophthora there were no favorable conditions (heat instead of wet overcast days with dew), so it was treated at a minimum. In wet years I spray more often. I advise you to work in the morning or evening and dry leaf, otherwise the solution of the drug will roll down. Another minus the heat - the plants discard the ovaries. Therefore, for better tying, he sprinkled tomatoes with Borvitom or Bormaks.
On my plantation I observe crop rotation and grow tomatoes after cereals. On the selected site, in autumn, phosphoric and potassium fertilizers are embedded, and in spring - nitrogen fertilizers.
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To whom tomatoes reciprocate
Without large red tomatoes, I simply can not imagine my dacha. Until the autumn I take care of tomatoes, and they respond to me with a wonderful harvest.
During fruit setting, I always spray with a weak solution of boric acid (10 g per 10 l of hot water, cool before use). This stimulates the formation of tomatoes. If the variety is large-fruited, I do not forget in time to tie the hands with twine to the props. Once, not paying attention to the fact that the tomatoes can not withstand the load of the fruits, without tying them, I almost destroyed the plants - some of them broke their brushes. In addition, I try to immediately, as I notice, remove the yellowed leaves, and in August - and flowers, from which the fruits obviously will not have time to form.
I drink plants abundantly, but only before the fruit ripens, then I halve the watering, since excessively moist soil delays the ripening of tomatoes. By the way, if it happened that your tomatoes were left without water for a long time, do not water them immediately abundantly - the fruits may crack. It is better to do this in several steps, little by little. It is also important to take the crop on time - the longer the ripened tomatoes remain on the branch, the less likely they are to grow and mature in a new crop batch.
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Many write that you can accidentally overfeed the plants. But if you change additives when watering - for example, the first infusion of grass, then the infusion of chicken manure, then cow, then ash, then do not overfeed your pets! Personally, I'm not afraid of this: in a 200-liter barrel, I ferment for two weeks collecting herbs that I can find, add a bucket of chicken droppings, a bucket of cow humus and a three-liter can of ash. I dilute 0,5 liter of fermented infusion in a 10-liter bucket of water and water it every time the ground dries. Moreover, all plants without exception, and until August, and still never remained without a crop, especially peppers and tomatoes.
So let's not hurt each other. And if you do not like something, just write how you grow this or that plant. And maybe your experience is also useful to somebody.
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Seriously, I began to work in the garden recently, as soon as I retired. And first of all they bought a greenhouse to grow tomatoes. First question: how to plant them - in two rows or in one? I began to watch what was happening in neighboring areas. But there grandmothers plant in the old fashioned way - the more the better, fifty bushes are shoved into one greenhouse. Therefore, after reading books, I plant tomatoes so that you can freely approach any bush, and not reach for it through a whole row. The distance between the bushes is about 50 cm, I plant in one row, if anyone has a large greenhouse and walkways on both sides, then it could be planted in two rows.
And I always clean, spacious and a lot of tomatoes in the greenhouse.