5 Review (s)

  1. Catherine

    TO INCREASE YIELD OF SEEDS OF TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS

    For this, for 5-10 days before sowing seeds in the soil or on seedlings, I temper them.
    In the piles of falling asleep seeds, on top I put pieces of cotton wool and pour a small amount of water so that cotton wool is soaked with moisture.
    I soaked the seeds of cucumbers at room temperature for 6 hours, and tomatoes for a day. During this time, the seeds swell. Then I put them on the lower shelf for 12 hours in the refrigerator. After that I transfer the seeds to the room. After another 12 hours, I put them in the refrigerator again. I move the seeds of cucumbers 4-6 days before planting, tomatoes 10 days. I make sure that they are always in a wet state. It happens that the seeds begin to hatch earlier, then I keep them in the refrigerator for longer than -15 hours.

    On my own experience, I was convinced that hardened plants grow stronger, resistant to stress, and their yield is higher.

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  2. Valentina Doniy

    Familiar in the dilemma of "watering or not tomatoes" chose the first that, given the size of its tomato plantation, it turned out very expensive. But even more I was surprised by the plants themselves: tomatoes with a thick carpet lie on the ground. No garters and even watering under the root - from a special hose the owner pours them directly on top.
    How so?
    I grow only medium-ripening determinants, resistant to diseases (especially bacteriosis) hybrids of soil tomatoes.
    Now I switched to a hybrid Dino. We call it "groundwater" not only because it is intended for open ground, but also because it can grow without a garter, and do not fear contact with the soil.
    Top-dressing on a scale
    When the plants take root after planting, I feed them with nitrogen fertilizer to gain mass. Once - enough, because the basis of nutrition of tomatoes is not nitrogen, but potassium. For small country sites, I would advise potassium sulfate, but because of our large area we use cheaper potassium chloride. Also manually along the rows once pour nitrate (not closing, so as not to burn the roots). Foliar top dressings I advise you to do not more often than once a week, and never exceed the concentration of the solution. Especially it is dangerous in the greenhouse - you can salivate the soil, and the leaves will grow to the detriment of the ovaries.
    Diseases do not sleep
    The mistake of many summer residents is that if the tomato is sick, they often think that it is late blight, and is treated from it. But no less dangerous in the middle band is alternaria. To distinguish them is simple: late blight manifests itself first on the top of the bush, alternaria from below, hitting the growth point.
    As soon as you notice the signs of the disease - immediately treat the plants with copper-containing preparations from phytofluorotides (Azotocorbin, Amistad quadris, Reus) or mankotsebovymi from alternaria (Panncoseb, Mancozeb). The amount of spraying depends on the weather conditions. In this dry year for phytophthora there were no favorable conditions (heat instead of wet overcast days with dew), so it was treated at a minimum. In wet years I spray more often. I advise you to work in the morning or evening and dry leaf, otherwise the solution of the drug will roll down. Another minus the heat - the plants discard the ovaries. Therefore, for better tying, he sprinkled tomatoes with Borvitom or Bormaks.
    On my plantation I observe crop rotation and grow tomatoes after cereals. On the selected site, in autumn, phosphoric and potassium fertilizers are embedded, and in spring - nitrogen fertilizers.

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  3. Ulyana KOROBITSYNA, Tver

    To whom tomatoes reciprocate
    Without large red tomatoes, I simply can not imagine my dacha. Until the autumn I take care of tomatoes, and they respond to me with a wonderful harvest.
    During fruit setting, I always spray with a weak solution of boric acid (10 g per 10 l of hot water, cool before use). This stimulates the formation of tomatoes. If the variety is large-fruited, I do not forget in time to tie the hands with twine to the props. Once, not paying attention to the fact that the tomatoes can not withstand the load of the fruits, without tying them, I almost destroyed the plants - some of them broke their brushes. In addition, I try to immediately, as I notice, remove the yellowed leaves, and in August - and flowers, from which the fruits obviously will not have time to form.
    I drink plants abundantly, but only before the fruit ripens, then I halve the watering, since excessively moist soil delays the ripening of tomatoes. By the way, if it happened that your tomatoes were left without water for a long time, do not water them immediately abundantly - the fruits may crack. It is better to do this in several steps, little by little. It is also important to take the crop on time - the longer the ripened tomatoes remain on the branch, the less likely they are to grow and mature in a new crop batch.

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  4. Valentine

    Many write that you can accidentally overfeed the plants. But if you change additives when watering - for example, the first infusion of grass, then the infusion of chicken manure, then cow, then ash, then do not overfeed your pets! Personally, I'm not afraid of this: in a 200-liter barrel, I ferment for two weeks collecting herbs that I can find, add a bucket of chicken droppings, a bucket of cow humus and a three-liter can of ash. I dilute 0,5 liter of fermented infusion in a 10-liter bucket of water and water it every time the ground dries. Moreover, all plants without exception, and until August, and still never remained without a crop, especially peppers and tomatoes.
    So let's not hurt each other. And if you do not like something, just write how you grow this or that plant. And maybe your experience is also useful to somebody.

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  5. R.I. KORNEVA. Tula

    Seriously, I began to work in the garden recently, as soon as I retired. And first of all they bought a greenhouse to grow tomatoes. First question: how to plant them - in two rows or in one? I began to watch what was happening in neighboring areas. But there grandmothers plant in the old fashioned way - the more the better, fifty bushes are shoved into one greenhouse. Therefore, after reading books, I plant tomatoes so that you can freely approach any bush, and not reach for it through a whole row. The distance between the bushes is about 50 cm, I plant in one row, if anyone has a large greenhouse and walkways on both sides, then it could be planted in two rows.
    And I always clean, spacious and a lot of tomatoes in the greenhouse.

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