17 Review (s)

  1. Alevtina Danilova, Ivanovo

    Among the varieties of sweet pepper, there are small plants, and real heroes, reaching an altitude of 1,5 m. The latter include a sort of California miracle, which I have grown for many years.
    To pepper giant discovered its potential, it is important not only to grow good seedlings, provide watering and feeding, but also properly form a bush. Rosely varieties are prone to thickening and the formation of side shoots, stepchildren. All the shoots formed from the sinuses of the leaves, I delete, and start this work sometimes is still at the seedling stage.

    When pepper actively grows after transplanting into the ground, I remove all leaves from the stem below the 1st branch. The natural development of the bush is as follows: the stem is divided into 2 skeletal shoots. each of them is then divided into 2 shoots of the 2nd order, those - by 2 more, and so on. That is, after the 4th division we have 16 shoots. If you leave them. then more flowers and ovaries are formed than the bush can feed, and in a dense crown conditions arise for outbreaks of disease.
    Therefore, I form a bush in the 2 branch: after each fork, I pinch one of the branches, leaving on it 1 leaf and ovary. The 2 twig from the pair continues to grow until the next branch, from which again one part is plucked, and the second continues to grow. Thus, instead of "broom" it turns out "candelabrum" with a dozen fruits on each branch. The shoots must be tied to the support so that they do not break under the weight of the crop. In early August, I cut all the tops to stop further growth upwards (these ovaries will not have time to ripen) and prevent the development of vertex rot.

  2. Elena VOROSHINA, city of Vladimir

    In March, the seedlings of pepper already produce real leaves and it is time for them to move from the seedling container to a new place of residence.

    If the seedlings were grown in peat tablets, then their transplantation will not be very difficult. You just need to make a groove in the ground for the size of the tablet with the seedling and carefully place it there in its entirety.
    If the peppers from the seeds were grown in a box, then during the picking, great care must be taken. Soil in the nursery should be properly soaked.

    Extract the plants conveniently with a small pointed plate: a chopped stick from ice cream, a toothpick, a nail file. "Podkop" should be done at a distance of 1,5 cm from the stem to a depth of 2-3 cm. If several seeds sprouted nearby, it is better not to try to separate the seedlings, but transplant them together, then weaker at the base.
    In the ground with a finger or peg, make a depression on 2-3 cm, then carefully place the roots of the seedling, trying to ensure that they evenly fill the volume, and carefully sprinkled with soil. Pepper does not like the penetration of the root neck during transplantation, so it should remain level with the soil.

    The stalk should occupy a strictly vertical position. The first watering after the transplantation is best done by spraying, and only after the sedimentation of the soil and its fixing, to proceed to a careful watering from the watering can.

  3. Polina GORLIKOVA, Tambov

    Pepper: from sowing to transplantation

    Before sowing the pepper on the seedlings, I always pour the seeds with a dense pink solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, then rinse with water and leave in a wet napkin for germination.

    The seeds are laid out in a container with prepared soil at a distance of 2 cm. I slightly sprinkle the soil. I moisten the ground with a sprayer.

    When 2 leaves appear on the leaves, they are dived into separate cups. Carefully watered and cleaned on the windowsill,
    but the first few days I shadow the seedlings, protecting it from direct sunlight.

    When the street becomes warm and the earth warms up properly, I begin to season the seedlings, taking it out to the street first for a while, and then increasing the residence time. I transplanted peppers into a prepared bed with a clod of earth.

    In doing so, first fill the holes with the soil half and pour the pepper. And then, when the water is absorbed, I topple the fertile soil.

  4. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Seeds of sweet peppers are quite expensive, and their germination is sometimes unimportant, somewhere 15-20%. So I used to seed the seeds of sweet pepper from the store. We eat the purchased peppers, and if we liked it, I dry the seeds and plant them in a greenhouse in the spring. The germination capacity of such seeds is about 80-85%.

    Based on more than 10 years of experience, I can say that on our peat soil in a greenhouse peppers Kakadu and 'Ravilo' peppers grow especially well and give a rich harvest (I learn the name of the variety of pepper in the store when I buy it).
    On the bush an average 10-13 of elongated red fruits with a thick wall grows. Peppers are sweet and juicy, it is good to cut them into salad, cook lecho, cook stuffed pepper and put in the freezer for the winter.
    Seeds of such peppers need to be updated every two years, but you can do it every year. We continue the experiment.

  5. Artem ONEZHKO, Novosibirsk

    Purple peppers are the most seasoned!
    Do you know what peppers are the most cold-resistant? Purple! The fact is that the dark pigment of anthocyanins is found not only in fruits, but also in other parts of the plant. Therefore, the stems and leaves of such varieties have a purple ebb of different intensities. This pigment helps plants better tolerate cold, especially spring. Have you noticed how cold the seedlings of tomatoes or cabbage turn blue? This is a natural defense mechanism, but it also leads to growth retardation. And purple peppers are protected from the very beginning, so when the weather is cool, they continue to grow and develop.
    The best purple peppers are suitable for fresh salads. For several years I grew dark peppers and picked up a good collection for myself.
    The gypsy baron is the most precocious, with good weather and proper care, the fruits can be removed 90 days after germination. The bush looks very unusual: already the first shoots have a purple hue, leaves and flowers are cast in purple. The color of the fruit changes as it ripens from ink to brown-purple, and then red spots appear.
    Black bull is a later variety, so it is not possible every year. But if summer and autumn turned out to be warm, then you can get huge fruits of almost black color. The taste is wonderful, very sweet.
    Sweet chocolate is a wonderful mid-season variety, non-whimsical and resistant to disease. Shrubs only about half a meter high, round fruits ripen on them. At first they are green, then they become red inside and brown outside. The taste fully justifies the name - it is rather a fruit than a vegetable!

  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Why don't the Californian miracle of bell peppers in the greenhouse redden, although they have grown to a certain size? We shot them green, and they don’t blush like tomatoes. They put them in the sun, they baked and turned white ...
    Tatyana Lykov

  7. Dionisy Vyazemsky, Zhigulevsk

    Already 3 year in a row I plant early ripening varieties of sweet pepper chocolate OtepolP and Vig Papa and consider them to be the best. They have a stable yield, and they taste excellent-I recommend them!
    I grow chocolate peppers sprouts seedlings, which I plant in the open ground at the end of May. Multicolored species I plant from each other far away, dividing them in rows of basil and carrots. I water the plants with warm water as the soil dries out. In our sandy soil, an excellent result is the topping of pepper with liquid organic fertilizers. In hot and humid weather, I advise you to remove side shoots.
    This year, for the first time, planted middle-ripened, again, brown peppers East chocolate star F1. Bushes of this hybrid grow powerful and spreading, up to 60 cm. They need to be tied, unlike the short and compact bushes of the Big Pap variety. I liked the novelty. I think next year I will re-plant the Star of the East.

  8. Olga Penzenskaya

    I have been working with the land for a long time and with pleasure. Some cultures grow better for me, others - a little worse. But what I learned especially well to grow over the years is bell pepper, although I have always believed that it is difficult to get a crop of this high-quality vegetable in our climate. Difficult, but possible, knowing some of the intricacies of care.
    Many people believe that the more you feed peppers, the greater the yield - and this is the main misconception. Pepper does not like manure at all! And if you overfeed it with nitrogen (which is found in all types of manure), it may not appear buds or appear very late, which is also bad. I usually feed peppers twice - during flowering and during fruiting. I use fertilizers purchased - the benefit is now a lot of them.
    Pepper is capricious with watering: we must remember that he does not like a lot of water, but even the slightest drying of the roots will have a bad effect on his budding and flowering (he can lose flowers). She does not like pepper cold water and a sharp temperature drop (day and night).
    Another feature is the landing: I plant in a square-nesting way - 60 × 60 cm, 2 bushes per hole.
    To get a good harvest, remove the tops, and if the summer is not hot (!), I remove my stepsons, leaving only 5-6 lateral shoots.

  9. Inna PARFENOVA, Leningrad Region

    For the Bulgarian pepper to be stronger and larger, we fertilize it with banana infusion. For its preparation, fill half the 3-liter glass jar with banana skin, cut into small pieces. Top up to the top with cold water and insist for 2 days (it is better to cover the top with gauze or lid, but not tightly).
    Prepared banana infusion diluted in a bucket of water volume of 10 l and pour this solution peppers under the root.

  10. O. KOSAREVA, Bashkortostan

    Pepper rose and even grew. Already, real leaflets have appeared. So, it's time for the picks.
    The mixture for picking consists of 6-7 parts of pure peat, 2 parts of humus and 1 part of garden or turf land, into which, if there is, of course, you can add 1 part of the mullein.
    Until 5-6-th present leaf pepper grows slowly, starting to lay at this time flower buds.
    During budding, when the plant 6-8 leaves, and during flowering, it has the fastest growth.
    When the pepper grows, it needs regular watering, with a lack of moisture the plant discards the buds. Water is better to heat up to 25-30.
    When growing seedlings on a short day (13-14 h) buds appear on 40-45 day, unlike seedlings grown at a natural long day, in which the budding phase comes on 70 day. It's not difficult to create a short day. But this should be done no earlier than on 20 day from seedlings, since before this plant to the length of the day is not susceptible. By 19-20, the seedlings are shaded with a light-tight hood and so do for 15-20 days. Then the plants lose sensitivity to the length of daylight.

  11. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Finally we bought a good greenhouse with our husband and now we can put peppers in it earlier - at the end of April, without fear of frost.
    Pepper loves warmth, so do not put it in cold soil. First her husband loosens, then introduces humus, a little complex mineral fertilizers, embeds them with rakes and pours with boiling water. Cover this part of the greenhouse with a film and the next day we plant peppers.
    In the evening I must water well the seedlings. Peppers, planted in a peat pot, for 1 h. Before transplanting put in a tray of water, so that it soaks the container well.
    The husband makes a bed height of 30 cm, which warms up well. Digs holes in it at a distance of 40 × 50 cm and pours them with warm water. If the plants in the peat pot, I plant directly in these containers, if not - gently flip the container and take out the plant with a clod of earth. I lower its 8 hole, not deepening, so that the soil was at a level on which it was in the pot. I fall asleep on the roots with damp earth, mulching with humus. In sunny weather, I shade a non-woven fabric, which is thrown over the arcs. It also saves peppers when it snaps. Plants can easily tolerate frosts also with abundant watering. But if it's warm outside, do not water the peppers after 7-10 transplantation - so they'll take root better.

  12. Tatyana PETROVA, Kemerovo

    The puzzle of domestic pepper
    I planted hot pepper for the sprouts last year. When the seedlings became stronger, they landed them in the garden, where they began to develop and bear fruit well. But two plants left the house on the balcony to have peppers on hand at hand. However, I was able to try the first fruits of home-made pepper only at the end of the summer. And all the summer months the plants only stretched and increased the green mass. Why did it happen?

    • Tatyana

      Most likely, domestic peppers were too much and “eaten” well — plants were overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, and they lacked phosphorus and potassium. Hence the active growth of green mass. One of the possible reasons also is non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Probably, it was too frequent and, apparently, in the evening, while peppers should be watered rarely and abundantly, otherwise the growth of green mass at the expense of flowering and fruiting is intensified. That is, next time, observe the regime of watering and top dressing, and fruiting will be timely.

  13. Nina Tula

    7 secrets of growing pepper
    Many wonder how I manage to grow such a beautiful pepper. I answer: you need to try a little. These tips will certainly help you grow a quality harvest.
    We harvest in the fall fertile, light land for seedlings. We choose good varieties - for example, 'Ilya Muromets', 'Red Giant'.
    Seeding of seeds for seedlings is carried out in February in pots or plastic cups (if the containers are low, seedlings develop poorly).
    We dive the plants in the end of March immediately into the greenhouse, before planting we add to the ground forest land and fertilizers.
    We use only high-quality fertilizers - for example, Agrolife {based on chicken manure).
    We water the seedlings with a warm pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
    Abundant watering is carried out throughout the summer {the pepper loves well-moistened soil).

  14. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Excellent article

  15. Family SHUMILCHENKO, Tula

    We love dishes flavored with hot peppers. It is sharp, spicy, but not bitter. Therefore, for some time, the seasoning is grown by ourselves. We prefer early and middle-ripening varieties to less depend on the whims of summer.
    For seedling we sow pepper in the middle of February, according to 2 seed in a cassette. After germination, we leave one, the stronger seedling. Soil is used special, for peppers. When the 3-th present leaf appears, the seedlings are transplanted from the cassettes into pots with a capacity of about 0,5 n. At the bottom, we pour large sand for drainage, since the pepper does not tolerate waterlogging.
    In the ground under the film, transplanted in early June, when the earth warms up and passes the threat of night chills. The place should be chosen open, but protected from drafts, so that in sunny weather it is possible to tilt the film and give access to the rays. Do not put a sweet pepper next to it, otherwise the risk of dusting is high. Immediately after transplantation and then once in 2-3 weeks we carry out feeding. Alternately, we use the infusion of ash, fermented grass, a solution of humic fertilizer with microelements. In the second half of the summer we change the cover film to nonwoven material. Pepper does not like condensate on leaves and fruits, but on "netanke" it does not form.

  16. Valentine

    Dear summer residents, this year I just have some kind of trouble with peppers - the fruits rot on the plants. And this applies to all varieties. Perhaps all due to the fact that their seedlings also behaved very strange? At first it grew well, blossomed, the peppers got stuck and grew, and in mid-July the plants began to wither and dry.
    And here's another interesting thing: I planted seedlings of bush aster on a bed of peppers, and the flowers feel fine! What happened to my peppers?


Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible