Copper vitriol from phytophthora on tomatoes
Contents ✓
Processing tomatoes with blue vitriol from late blight - how, how much and how often?
Three stages of prevention from phytophthora
Practical experience of the majority of summer residents shows that cheaper, affordable and effective, as well as harmless (which is important!) Means to combat many fungal diseases of plants there.
I'll tell you about the personal experience of fighting tomato late blight with the help of copper sulfate. I note at once that the land in the areas of developed horticulture, free of pathogens of this fungal disease, is practically nonexistent, the difference can only be in the degree of its infection. Therefore, it is important not to allow this disease to flourish in your area, timely destroying the infected diseased plants from the Solanaceae family (especially tomatoes and potatoes). It is also important to select plant varieties that are resistant to late blight, which are now many.
But let's return to vitriol. I grow tomatoes, like most cottagers, for many years in one place, because of the impossibility in our small areas to observe a crop rotation. But I have absolutely no problems with late blight, thanks to the systemic application of copper sulfate.
Reference by topic: Tomatoes without phytophthora in the greenhouse
The first stage of the fight against tomato phytophthora
It all begins with planting seeds to get seedlings. Prepared in boxes, cups, etc. the ground before planting seeds in it, I once and only moderately moisten with an 3% solution of copper sulfate. This will protect your tomatoes from possible infection of pathogen in the stage of growing seedlings, so you are guaranteed to get seedlings free from the causative agents of this fungal disease.
The second stage of the fight against phytophthora
The next stage of prevention is diving, when young plants are transplanted into another container (usually cups, boxes, etc.) and into new soil. It's time to protect yourself again from pathogens that may be in this soil. For this, the earth mixture in dive containers about a day before planting should be poured with a solution of copper sulfate, but already 1%, since a high concentration can have a depressing effect on the delicate root system of tomatoes.
The third stage of the fight against phytophthora tomato
The third stage of the preventive fight against late blight, which is absolutely logical, is carried out before transplanting seedlings into the soil at a permanent place. Again, about a day before transplanting, we pour about 1 liter of a 1% solution of copper sulfate into the prepared pits. After that we plant seedlings there, additionally applying all your tricks (adding certain fertilizer complexes, mulching, etc. - but this is a topic for another conversation).
On this, the root treatment of plants from late blight with the help of copper sulfate is completed, but later on I use copper sulfate (or rather, Bordeaux liquid) once again - already with foliar preventive treatment of tomatoes. And it is desirable to carry it out when the formation of tomato fruits is just beginning. If the first three stages of the fight against late blight were carried out in order to protect plants from the penetration of pathogens through the root system, then foliar treatment protects them from the penetration of pathogens through green parts (stems and leaves). In this case, the processing of green (very tender and vulnerable) parts of plants must be carried out with a solution of copper sulfate with a concentration of not more than 0,1-0,2%, otherwise leaf burns and, as a result, necrosis of their tissues are possible - and this is fraught with a poor harvest.
See also: The reason for late blight of tomatoes is a lack of knowledge
The main thing is dosage
If late blight is still amazed adult tomato plants, it is necessary immediately after the destruction of the treated soil at the location of the root system in the same 3-5% solution of copper sulfate, and then give the land a rest until next spring or allow to work on its improvement siderates, immediately sown to the vacated place.
I want to briefly talk about some other, the most frequent ways of using copper sulfate on my site. Since the practice and theorists of agriculture have established that copper sulfate is very effective and harmless when properly applied, it is widely used to protect against diseases and other garden crops, as well as woody and shrubby species.
In our country, pumpkin plants suffer the most from fungal diseases in the south: cucumbers, squash, squash. When the first signs of the disease appear, which are whitish or some other hue spots on the surface of the leaf blade, the plants should be treated with a weak solution of copper sulfate (0,1-0,2%). Re-treatment (if necessary) can be carried out after 1,5-2 weeks. Often, spots of developing fungal diseases are found on gooseberry leaves, some grape varieties, apple trees and other shrubs and trees - which means it's time to treat them with the same weak solution of vitriol, or Bordeaux liquid.
Of course, you can use other folk remedies, such as infusion of wood ash, which, on the one hand, is very effective in combating some fungal diseases, and on the other, is also a valuable foliar feeding of plants with a complex of micro and macro elements, especially potassium . Positive results are also obtained by treatment with a solution of mullein, garlic and even milk, etc., with the obligatory observance of the appropriate concentration in the solution of one or another active substance.
At the end of the conversation, I want to remind you once again of the obligatory observance of a certain concentration of copper sulfate in solution during this or that treatment of plants. This is the only way to achieve the maximum positive effect in combating diseases, on the one hand, and to avoid accumulation of copper ions in fruits, on the other hand, and, accordingly, to avoid their harmful effects on our body.
Reference by topic: Tomatoes and phytophthora - how to fight: the experience of summer residents
And since the conversation went about tomatoes, I can send the needy seeds of tall, very tasty tomatoes for free to those in need: Black Prince, Pink Lettuce, Cherry, etc., as well as very fruitful eggplants (more than 20 fruits on the bush). A blank envelope with a return address is required. If you send me something interesting from the seeds, I will be grateful.
© Igor Leonidovich EVSTAFYEV. Cand. biol of sciences, senior citizen.
Everything is good in moderation and copper sulfate too ...
All tomato growers are divided into three categories: those who believe that without chemistry planting cannot be saved from fungal diseases, they are confident in the opposite and, as they say, neither yours nor ours. Most letters from the first two “groups”. But it's time to give the floor to the third. Moreover, they have no less discoveries.
I want to speak out in defense of this drug. Whatever one may say, copper was and remains the main assistant in the fight against phytophthora.
An instructive story happened to me in 2013. And at that moment I was also sure that copper was like a dead poultice. Everything happened in early July, when I went on vacation for 10 days. When he returned and saw what was happening with the tomatoes, he fell into shock: almost all 500 bushes were affected by the disease. Urgent spraying with Bordeaux liquid and piercing the stems with copper wire did not give any result - the plants dried up and disappeared. Having calmed down, reconciled with defeat, I understood something about tomato (and generally garden) life. I'll try to sort things out.
So, when sharp differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures begin at the beginning of summer, be careful - the malicious phytophthora is somewhere nearby. Only preventative measures, while the plants are healthy, can protect them from the disease. But all protection must be done consistently and not hope that you stuck a wire - and you can sleep peacefully. After all, even for people, the flu vaccine does not give a 100% guarantee.
But as for the fanning of the roots of tomatoes in copper sulfate, then this, of course, is overkill. When transplanting seedlings into the ground, only 1/2 tsp should be added to each well. of this drug. Here is the minimum but necessary amount of copper for plants.
But in this case, in any case you can not get vitriol on the sprouts themselves. And this is not stupidity and not a myth, as the author of the letter writes. Of course, many readers will object to copper, but this is already their choice: either a healthy plant, or twisted dried leaves and fallen flower ovaries.
And piercing the stems with copper wire is not nonsense. If you do this procedure 7-10 days after making copper at the root, then everything will work like a clock. And to quickly cope with this time-consuming procedure, attract children and grandchildren. I assure them that they will like this work and will not tire at all.
Even cats will like
The most important thing is that the initiated plant protection measures cannot be stopped. Every week, until the fruit ripens, spray the plants. But no chemistry is needed anymore - there are enough funds for native ones. For example, I use this solution: in 10 l of water I dissolve 1 cup of ground garlic, 1 g of potassium permanganate, 1 l of whey, 15-20 drops of iodine, 1 vial of valerian (cat owners should then especially monitor the garden) and 10 tablets metronidazole.
But! If you suddenly missed spraying, and phytophthora immediately took advantage of this (and she is a quick lady), then the only salvation is, again, chemistry, copper-containing preparations.
Of course, after such treatments, it is better not to eat fruits, but to put everything into processing - ketchup, juice, lecho.
I would also like to tell you how to make an analog of the well-known microbiological drug against fungal diseases yourself. After all, it is based on a hay stick, which is allocated by the mowed grass during decay. This is exactly what I am doing on my own. To do this, I stuff a plastic bag with grass, moisturize it, cork everything tightly and leave it in the shade for a week.
Then the contents of the bag are poured into the 50-liter barrel and pour 20 l of water. In this solution, millions of useful bacteria live and reproduce, with the help of which, by spraying plants, the harmful phytophthora is destroyed.
It is clear that it is still necessary to properly form the plants and carry out pinching in time. I cut off the stepsons to the first flower brush. By the way, they can be rooted in water - roots will appear in a week.
Although the harvest from the stepson grows later, but they are healthier than their seminal counterparts.
Low-growing varieties after primary pasynkovaniya no longer form, because they have growth limits up to 1 m.
Miracles on the beds
Now I would like to focus the reader's attention on the so-called amateur varieties of tomatoes. That is, those that are not in the State Register. Will you say that this is some kind of a snag? And here not. Amateur selection of themes and it is good that in some remote place Grandma grows her variety for many years, and it is in many respects better sold in stores. At me, for example, in my garden collection of such almost 1000 is.
Every year I plant 200-500 varieties. The reader may think that I have hectares of land, but in fact, everything is simpler: one variety - one bush. Tomatoes are self-pollinated plants, so the claimed variety is also such in subsequent years. And it’s very nice that on the pages of your publication there is a wonderful rubric “Country Fair”, where we gardeners can exchange.
Yes, it's just a miracle that grew out of the seeds sent to me!
Here, for example, the Belarusian determinant Neighbors in shock is a powerful bush with a large harvest and superb taste of fruits weighing up to 150 g. Or Vitushka Kharkiv, which is not visible due to the abundance of impressive tomatoes (weighing 300 g). Pepper-like dark-skinned dark-skinned is also beautiful - it is ideal for conservation. Do not consider it immodesty, but the varieties bred by me are also not a miss. Here, for example, yellow One hundred times Kostenko - I take off a kilo of excess from each bush.
© Author: Igor Viktorovich Kostenko.
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The first signs of tomato late blight are brown spots on the leaves above and a whitish coating on the underside. Then the fruits begin to deteriorate, and the fungus can spread to other beds, for example, to planting potatoes. So the harvest size of not only tomatoes depends on the success of the fight against late blight.
Many summer residents spray plants from this fungus with fungicides (Bordeaux liquid, etc.). But I'm cautious about chemistry and prefer fighting with agrotechnical methods:
• do not thicken the planting,
• regularly destroy weeds,
• Cut off the lower leaves, concerning the soil,
• mulch beds with humus,
• hold a drink in the groove along the landings, so that water does not fall on the plants.
In addition, I use for the treatment of tomatoes compositions from natural means.
I pour a liter can of pine or spruce needles into a metal bucket with cold water. Boiling - 5 min. I chill and add a shovel of fresh cow dung.
30 garlic shooter (or 1 glass denticles), 2 liter cans of finely chopped nettle and
2 st. l. soapy chips are poured into an 10-liter bucket of hot water. I insist 3 days.
In 8 l l warm water I dilute 2 l of whey, 1 a glass of sugar and a bubble of iodine (10ml).
I spray the tomatoes with a broom. I perform the procedure in the morning or in the evening 2 times a month, and during rains - up to 2 times a week.