Daffodil elimination by March and New Year
To get off-season blooming from daffodils is much easier than from tulips.
For forcing, you can use varieties of almost all groups, as the process of forming a flower occurs even before the bulb is dug out.
Even the most capricious and rapidly changing color in the soil of narcissuses (such, for example, as Professor Einstein, whose bright red crown burns instantly in the sun) on the window perfectly retain their color. Moreover, even miniature varieties, the flower spike in which is low, with forcing usually grow to 30 cm, such flowers are quite suitable for bouquets.
Bulbs for flowering on the window are selected healthy, solid, heavy, with a whole and undamaged don. Each of them should have the following indicators: 2-3 vertices, diameter not less than 5 cm, weight 70-80
See also: Tulip distillation
Daffodil elimination by simple
In July bulbs are dug out, dried, the largest ones are separated and, without delaying, are planted in deep boxes. At the bottom lay the film, then pour loose fertile soil (half the height of the box) and lay the bulbs at a distance of 1-1,5 cm, slightly pressing. They fall asleep with river sand and spill it with water, so that the earth and sand densely cover the bulbs. On top, a layer of sawdust (10 cm) is poured and again spilled with water.
In early October, the boxes are placed in an unheated room, where the temperature is 5-8 degrees, permissible and further its decrease to 3 and even to minus 2 degrees.
You can leave boxes on the street. In this case, a trench is excavated in the ground, a film is placed on the bottom, boxes are put on it and covered with sawdust or other insulating material, for example leaves. Peat is not recommended to fall asleep, since it freezes, and then it is difficult to pull out crates in winter. It must be remembered that the bulbs of daffodils before forcing must necessarily undergo a cooling period at a temperature of 5-8 degrees lasting 16-18 weeks.
In early January, the daffodils are transferred to a heated room. The first 3-5 days contain them at a temperature of about 10 degrees, then it is raised to the level of 16-18 degrees. The boxes are placed in a well-lit (without lighting) room. If there is very little light (it's cloudy weather), after the appearance of sprouts (in a week) you can lighten up. Then the peduncles will be straight, strong and the bulbs will be well preserved. Watering follows
Narcissa can be admired almost a month, if in different pots plant varieties of early, middle and late flowering.
hold as needed. The film, put on the bottom under the bulbs, helps to keep the soil moist. Through 24-30 days (depending on the variety), plants bloom.
After flowering daffodils, watering should be continued until the leaves are dead. When this happens, the boxes with earth and bulbs are transferred to a cool room and stored there until the end of July. Then the bulbs are selected from the boxes and immediately put in the ground. They should take root well before the onset of frost. If you provide good care for them during the next season, then in a year you can again use it to get a bouquet on the window.
Flowering of daffodils at home daffodils for the holiday
For the early forcing of the New Year and Christmas bulbs are dug in June, that is, a month earlier than usual.
Separate the largest from the kids, cut off the roots, remove the old scales. Withstand 4 days at a temperature of 34 degrees, 2 weeks at 17 degrees and until the first decade of October stored at 9 degrees.
Planted until 15 October in flower pots with a diameter of 15-17 cm, filled with greenhouse soil and sand in the ratio of 3: 1. This mixture of pots is filled to two thirds of the height. Bulbs set, slightly pressing, almost closely to each other, according to 4-5 in each pot. Their tops should be just above the edge of the pot. The gaps between the bulbs are covered with the same mixture of earth and sand or one sand.
Pots are put in plastic bags, not tying tightly, and stored in a refrigerator or other dark cool place with a temperature of 5-9 degrees and high humidity. If necessary, the bulbs are watered. In the first days of December (one month before the desired flowering period), the pots are removed from the refrigerator and placed on the windowsill. They maintain a temperature of 17-18 degrees and an air humidity of 50%. After the daffodils bloom, they are rearranged to a cooler place with a temperature of 11-12 degrees.
For flowering in March or April, it is necessary in mid-December to lower the temperature for the bulbs stored in the cold from 5-9 degrees to 3-4. This procedure will delay the development of germs. For 2 weeks before the planned flowering, the pots are transferred to the room and put on a light window sill. When the flowering begins, the temperature is lowered to the level of 11-12 degrees, thereby prolonging the life of the flowers.
You can use for the flowering on the window and purchased bulbs, specially designed for distillation. As a rule, they are the most expensive. After purchase, they should immediately be planted in a pot with soil.
Reference by topic: Flower distillation at home
SECOND LIFE OF Daffodils
Gave daffodils in a pot. How to care for them? And is it possible to save them in order to grow them later in the country? Julia Gonchar, Roslavl
- If the soil in the pot is overdried (which happens often), I water such a floral gift immediately through the pallet.
For a week or two, flowers can be kept in a room in a bright place and moderately watered.
I immediately cut off the fading flowers, leaving part of the peduncle.
Add some fresh soil or sand. The layer should be such as to completely cover the bulb. I do not use fertilizers and growth stimulants.
After flowering, daffodils can be placed on a cool window sill or in a glazed loggia, where at night it is not lower than +12 degrees.
Before planting in the flower garden, they can be left even in a tight container, but it is better to transfer to a more spacious one.
DROPPING DARCINES FROM POT TO FLOWER
Many varieties of daffodils in our area bloom in late April or early May. Planting (transshipment) of forcing plants is desirable to coincide with the time of the appearance of peduncles in garden daffodils.
I do not recommend immediately sharing those plants that are in the same tank. It is better to put them in a single lump, trying not to destroy it.
I plant daffodils so that the whole bulb is in the ground, but not too deep. An overly shallow landing is dangerous. Mulching the soil allows you to adjust the depth when exposing the top of the bulb.
I start to water in a few days, because at this time the soil is quite moist. Excess water in the planting hole leads to rotting of the bulbs, as well as their excessive burial into the ground.
In such conditions, daffodils can be left for several years or transplanted in the fall to a new place.
After March 8, many remaining pots with blooming onion shops sell out, greatly reducing the price. Several times, I also acquired such "expired" daffodils. Further care for them is determined by the condition of the plants.
I immediately transferred them to a larger pot filled with a mixture of peat and sand. Then, slightly moistening the soil, carried the containers to the basement or other cool place. You can leave them there until the beginning of autumn, when the time comes for planting bulbous plants. The soil needs to be moistened occasionally so that it does not dry out. Sometimes rare varieties are found on sale, whose bulbs are usually expensive.
© Author: Maria ANASHINA, collector of plants, Moscow
Daffodil to 8 March: video
© Author: Nina Ippolitova
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