Renewal of the old plum
Contents ✓
How to update / rejuvenate an old plum
A yellowfruit plum in my garden has been around for years, it's time to update it. Alternatively, one could use root shoots for reproduction. However, as I have noticed, it gives small and tasteless fruit. This means that the tree belongs to a type of non-proprietary, that is, to a low-value seedlings a cultural plum was inoculated. Save the signs of the latter can be, using propagation cuttings.
Boy ... in the apartment
I know that propagation by cuttings is recommended in July. To do this, make a small greenhouse and plant cuttings there, providing them with a temperature of + 25-30 ° and an air humidity of 100%.
However, it’s not easy for me personally to do this, since it was at this time, in July, that the branches of plums were hung with ripening fruits, which I don’t want to sacrifice. In addition, with this technology, cuttings will produce young shoots with leaves in August-September, which is unusually late for our gardens.
Special measures will be required to preserve these unripe shoots in the autumn and winter cold.
In addition, maintaining a temperature in the greenhouse of + 25-30 ° and 100% humidity is quite difficult.
Given these shortcomings, I decided to take rooting cuttings in a city apartment in March, during a period of hibernation, when pruning for it takes place with minimal consequences.
No sooner said than done! In the fall, I prepared half a bucket of soil, consisting of compost (humus with peat) and sand in a ratio of about 1: 1. In winter, this soil was stored dry. I built a mini-hotbed out of a 5-6 liter plastic bottle (drinking water is sold everywhere).
Scissors gently cut off the bottom of the bottle at an altitude of 15 cm. The upper part was left as a lid by the lad.
I made vertical cuts to a height of 2 cm along its lower cut at a distance of 3-2 cm. The resulting “petals” were slightly bent inward so that the perimeter of the cut was reduced and the upper part of the bottle could be installed on the lower part. In such a miniature greenhouse fit 7 cuttings.
To prepare a nutrient solution, in 1 l of water added 3 st. l. sifted ash oven and 1 st. l. complex fertilizer (for example, nitrofoski).
The prepared soil was dropped into small bottles in small portions, each time spilling with a nutrient solution, mixed and allowed to stand, bringing the moisture to 90% (when 100% of moisture reaches the bottom of the container, water appears). As a result, the bottle should contain 10-12 cm of soil. Seal it should not, let it be loose, breathable. The holes for draining excess water at the bottom do not need to.
Reference by topic: How to propagate the plum with cuttings
Preparation of plum cuttings
For cutting cuttings, I chose branches with well-formed buds from the bottom of the tree crown. The length of the branches should be 15-20 cm. At a height of 10-12 cm from the lower end of the branch, I chose a well-ripened main kidney, above which a thin part was cut off and thrown away. The lower end of the cut obliquely cut. On the handle, you can leave only one selected kidney and the closest to it - as a spare. I broke the remaining kidneys. (Usually, for planting in a greenhouse, it is recommended to prepare 5-7 cuttings).
Cuttings are stuck in moist soil vertically to a depth of 5-6 cm so that their lower ends are at least 2 cm from the wall. After planting, the little fellow closed the lid made from the top of the bottle. In this case, moisture from the soil will evaporate and, with a closed cork, maintain an optimum 100 moisture content in the air space of the container.
A little boy with cuttings I placed on the shelf in the bathroom. The first time, before the blossoming leaves, the light cuttings are not needed. Moreover, according to my observations, their rooting in the darkness is even better.
Transformation of the plum into a seedling
The complete rooting of cuttings occurs within a month. The first 7 days, before the leaves appear, you can not look into the greenhouse. When leaflets appeared on most cuttings, I transferred it to a lighted place - to the windowsill. To ensure air exchange, unscrewed the cork. After about two weeks I completely removed the lid. After that, on warm sunny days, the youngster brought to the balcony for hardening plants. If necessary, watered, however, avoiding the accumulation of water at the bottom of the bottle.
Reference by topic: Plum growing on the site-planting, basic care, reproduction and pruning of plums
In mid-May, a youngster with entrenched cuttings and leaves I transported to the dacha. The walls of the bottle were cut and pulled out cuttings with lumps of soil on the roots. After transplanting into the open ground seedlings for the summer season managed to grow up, get stronger and prepare for wintering.
© Author: Anatoly YARUSOV, Candidate of Technical Sciences
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Frost-resistant varieties and types of plums - name and description
- Plum growing on the site-planting, basic care, reproduction and pruning of plums
- How I made the plum bear fruit
- Plum varieties for the North (more precisely for the North-West): names + description
- We choose not decking rootstocks for plums
- Plum cultivation in the Smolensk region - care tips
- Description of varieties of plums increased yield - photos and reviews of a specialist
- Reproduction of plum by cuttings
- Plum - scheduled care: my personal experience and feedback on the methods
- Plum variety "Stanley" - description, reviews, pros and cons
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Plum (southern variety, bought on the market) formed a dark depressed spot on the bark, the bark began to die. The neighbors said it was cancer. In September, we uprooted a tree ...
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And in vain, that uprooted. The spot, most likely, was formed from the freezing of the bark. You needed to clean the damaged area to fresh wood, cover it with garden gauze, wrap it with a natural cloth - and the plum would continue to please you with harvest for many years.
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On the neighboring abandoned site, a plum grows, it fructifies well. I want to plant the shoots of this tree on my plot. Is it possible to breed a plum with a young growth? Will it be the same harvest?
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Basal shoots are the material for the traditional method of plum propagation. However, shoots for plum propagation are suitable only if the variety is root-bred, that is, not grafted. Of course. it is not possible to learn about the origin of the variety on the abandoned site, but it is possible to distinguish the native plant from the grafted plant independently.
If the root shoots have the same color and shape as the adult plant, the lignified parts of the shoot, the shape of the kidneys, then this is the root-plant.
If the shoot differ markedly from the maternal form. then this plant is most likely grafted, and the shoots dug from it with a high probability will not retain the parental properties.
On the contrary. planting material taken from the roots of the roots, almost completely preserves the characteristics (yield, taste, fruit, general appearance) of the parent.
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It’s hard to part with old trees - this is history, memory. Therefore, we save even overgrown diseased trees to the last contrary to all the arguments of the mind.
In my garden, the plum was completely old, and no wonder - she was already about thirty years old. The trunk is clumsy, this year all overgrown with moss and lichens. But I have one plum, it is yellow and very sweet, at one time my parents brought it from the village, I don’t know the variety. And surprisingly, but the tree does not give overgrowth at all, maybe from old age?
We decided to clean the plum a little this year. Scrubbing a lichen by hand is long and traumatic for a tree. They read the recipe for the special mixture on the Internet, the reviews are good, after such processing the lichen should fall off by itself. Moreover, I understand that lichen is not a parasite, it does not harm the tree, but it creates a cozy house for pests. Therefore, you need to get rid in any way.
Soap-ash solution. Take a piece of laundry soap and a little more 1 kg of ash. Soap grate, mix with ash and dissolve in 5 l water. How to mix and bring to a boil, so that the components are better connected. With this mixture, use a regular sponge to thoroughly moisten the bark of the tree in the affected areas.
After a while, the lichens will fall off themselves. And in general this procedure is useful. It helps strengthen the bark and strengthen the metabolism in the stem.
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If in the spring the plum blossoms, but does not form the ovary, it is most likely the case in the absence of the necessary pollinator. Can also spoil the Cvetod, sawfly. But sometimes the tree just does not bloom. Why?
Plum is an early crop. In some varieties, the root shoot blooms already in the 2nd year of life. The grafted seedlings begin bearing fruit a little later. But in any case, a 5-6 year old tree should bloom.
Sometimes the reason for infertility is that the tree lives. Planted in a fertile land, and even receiving fertilizers and watering, it only increases wood and green mass. and flower buds are practically not laid. In this case, you need to stop feeding, one-year increment to pinch. In summer, spend a furrow: gently scratch the bark with a knife from the north side of the stem and large branches.
This will slow the growth of the tree and make it "think" about the offspring.
"Forget" about bloom can also trees that have suffered from frost, but found the strength to recover. In this case, you need to focus on shaping pruning: remove excess branches, in July, shorten the growth by a quarter.
Often grow, but not plum blossoms, not enough winter hardy for a given area. The period of rest for the southerners is short, and during the first winter thaws their buds wake up. Returning frosts destroy them. The flower buds suffer most because the leaves of the plum blossom after flowering. As a result, in spring the tree is covered with lush foliage, but it does not blossom. You can try to find a place in the garden with a more suitable microclimate, but it is better to plant the zoned varieties.
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Often the plum gives a lot of ovary, but you cannot leave everything out of greed - the fruits will be small. Part of the ovaries should be broken in the 3-4th week after flowering. How to do it? Focus on the fact that between the ovaries in small-fruited varieties you need to leave about 5 cm, in large-fruited ones - 10 cm. This will save the tree from depletion, the harvest will be plentiful, and the fruits will be large. Also, so that the tree is not weakened, I always cut the tops growing from the root.
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I bought a piece of land three years ago. Bought in the nursery seedlings of trees and shrubs, planted. The first "responded" to the plum of the grade Renklod Tambov: last year it blossomed well, there were a lot of ovaries. We rejoiced and waited for fruit. But the plums "became numb", and some transparent mucus began to drip from them. They removed all the diseased fruits, on the tree as a result there were about 10 plums left. But they were inedible after maturing. How to help our sink this season?
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These are signs of a very serious and one of the most harmful virus diseases - it is a plum plum, or smallpox. It affects the entire crown of the tree. In spring, on the young leaves of plum and cherry plum, there are vague light green spots in the form of broad bands and rings. On larger leaves, the color of the spots is yellowish-green, rather bright.
Fruits have chlorotic yellow rings or arches, often deform, pulp is impregnated with gum. They reduce the sugar and acid content, plums become completely tasteless. On the bones, too, can be seen distinct brown spots surrounded by a light halo. Fruits fall prematurely, in a few weeks
before maturation. The plum slicer virus is transferred through planting and inoculating material, shoots, by mechanical means and aphids. What to do with sick trees? Uproot and burn outside the garden. The harvest from infected plums is in most cases unsuitable for processing. Therefore, to keep such plants in the garden does not make sense.
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For several years in my garden grew a plum tree. It looked healthy, in the spring luxuriously blossomed, but the fruit gave 3-4 pieces. I thought that the color is chilling with cold or some pest is guilty until I learned that many sorts of plums are self-fruitful. Especially modern, with large fruits, excellent taste, resistance to disease, neat crowns. To tie fruit, their flowers should be pollinated by pollen of another variety.
Self-infertility is not a common sign of plums. Many old varieties are Hungarian of Moscow, Yellow self-bearing. Red ball - able to bear fruit well and individually. Of the modern self-fertile Oryol dream, Morning and some others. But even these varieties give more stable crops in the presence of a pollinator.
Lucky many inexperienced gardeners - pollinator trees grow
in the neighboring gardens. But my plum was alone, and it was blooming from year to year for nothing.
A plum of another variety, blooming at the same time, can serve as a pollinator for a plum. Plum and the turn are sometimes suitable. There are especially capricious varieties that require a pair of Ussuri plum or a strictly defined variety. For example, especially large-billed Smolinka will yield a crop only in pair with Jahontova or the Hungarian of Moscow. A universal pollinator is Skorospelka red. This old variety of national selection, besides the high qualities of a pollinator, is famous for its unpretentiousness, rapid growth, early introduction into fruiting and abundant yields of tasty large fruits. In a word, such a plum will not be superfluous in any garden.
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From the parents got a plum (fruits blue, small), which has taken roots all over the garden. How can I get rid of this scourge?
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It is quite possible that some of the shoots (closer to the main trunk) are the root shoots of an old tree, but most of the plants are seedlings from seeds sprouted in the ground (since you did not collect fallen fruits, seeds in seeds underwent natural stratification in winter and every spring gave amicable shoots >. Today, for the conditions of the Zhytomyr region, at least a dozen high-quality large-fruited varieties of plum are recommended. Therefore, I advise you to uproot the old tree. There are two ways to get rid of root shoots and seedlings:
■ apply herbicides - but in this case in the next few years you will not be able to grow anything here;
■ With a well-ground garden shovel, dig out all young plants and, if necessary, use an ax.
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If the sink is moving
If 3-4-year-old seedlings to move to a new location is not difficult, then with 8-10-year-old tree everything is much more complicated.
Adult tree must be prepared before transplanting. In the first year of the formation of the crown. Branches are trimmed in such a way as not to remove all fruiting, but to remove all unnecessary ones. In the second year in spring, at a distance of 50-60 cm from the trunk, a narrow ditch depth of up to 1 m is excavated. Large roots are sawed about a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk. Over the summer, the tree will give new young roots to the first year. And this, in turn, improves the survival of the tree in a new place.
Next spring, the tree is gently punctured by a groove. Roots are filed. As digging out under the earth clod cellophane is put. The cellophane should be larger than the supposed earthy coma, so that after digging the edges of the substrate go beyond the coma. It is for these edges that the tree extends from the pit and is transferred to a new "place of residence".