Planning a garden on the site
Contents ✓
Plan of the garden garden and plot - how and what to do
No matter how times change, the plot is especially valuable for spaces where you can cultivate plants that are useful for practical use, providing us with tasty and healthy products, healing powers. The ability to choose such a site, to overcome difficult conditions - this is what is needed to obtain a crop of vegetables, medicinal and green crops.
The climatic zone in which the site is located characterizes the average annual temperatures of a given area, their absolute minimums and maximums, the amount of precipitation, prevailing winds, extreme natural phenomena-dryness, heat, frost, floods, squalls, tornadoes, glaciations.
In the power of the elements
Before determining which plants can be grown on the site, carefully study the natural site data, which depends on many factors. Important is the relief of the terrain and the location of the site on it. In relation to the sides of the world, the illumination of the entire area and its shadow regime are determined. They study the mechanical composition of the soil, study soil fertility, its chemical composition and acidity, moisture and groundwater level.
There are other restrictions that make the right decision on the method of cultivation in these circumstances - the proximity and characteristics of water sources for irrigation (rainwater collection, water pipes, wells, rivers), sources of pollution of the atmosphere, water and soil, landscaping standards, company charters, material and technical capabilities, personal time devoted to working with the garden.
To determine which types of ridges and other structures to erect for selected crops, evaluate the entire set of these conditions. Care of crops will be pleasant if the difference between plant requirements and site conditions becomes minimal.
See also: Design, layout and design of a small plot and giving
Winds on the site
When designing the garden take into account the location of the site in relation to the prevailing winds.
Open, unprotected places with constant strong winds are not suitable. They dry the soil, prevent pollination, damage the crop, breaking down important for plants thin shoots and fragile leaves.
Buildings, trees and shrubs should protect the site from the wind, but not obscure it. It is important that on the north side of the cold winds the garden is closed with a high fence or green plantations. Protecting the site from the wind, take into account that the excess air movement, like its complete absence, adversely affect the plants.
The planning of the garden directly affects the time of ripening and yield.
On the plan of the site, there are areas that are constantly illuminated, shaded temporarily and in the shade most of the day's light.
This allows you to determine the area for crops on the plan, based on their preferences for heat and light - the most light-loving crops that do not like even short-term shading, crops that tolerate slight shading and shade-tolerant.
Planning for the placement of sun-loving plants
Ideally, for sun-loving crops, a place is assigned to the southern boundary of the site, illuminated from 6 in the morning to 6 pm. Plants need lighting for at least eight hours. For the best photosynthesis, development and fruiting of plants, it is precisely the non-hot morning and partly evening hours that are favorable.
When landing, rows and ridge-boxes are arranged so that low morning and evening sunlight illuminates the plants so that they do not shade each other. Suitable areas illuminated by the sun from noon to the end of the day: not all vegetable plants need as much light as a fruit garden. For some crops (pumpkin, beans, cauliflower), prolonged exposure to sunlight can be fatal.
Plan the site in the shade
In the shade good fruiting is observed in greenery, some kinds of salads and root crops, many spicy herbs, rhubarb, asparagus, medicinal plants perfectly coexist here. If the site is in the shade, the harvest is obtained by sowing the seeds on seedlings in a warm room.
Flat with a slope plot
Ideal for flat land. When heavy rain on a relief with a slight slope, seeds and a fertile layer of soil are washed away. In such areas, high ridges are built, leveling the soil according to the requirements: the allowable slope is 3 mm per running meter of the bed.
On the gentle southern slope, plants are planted earlier, and the crop will be early. On the slopes facing the north, the harvest will be late, because the sun's rays glide over the soil, heating it longer. Plots with a slope to the east and west are good for growing vegetables. The ridges are placed horizontally, i.e. across the slope or along the contour of the slope - water is distributed evenly on them.
On a steep hillside, horizontal terraces with retaining walls are being constructed. Ridge boxes are arranged here, whose width depends on the slope of the relief - the larger it is, the narrower the terrace. It is important to reliably strengthen the retaining walls so that the soil does not crumble onto the plants.
The plan of the garden on the sides of the world
So that the soil in warm, lowered areas warms evenly, the ridges are located from north to south. So at noon the plants will receive a maximum of sunlight.
On light dry soils, flooded with sunlight, the ridges are located from east to west so the plants shade the aisles, retaining moisture in the soil. The location of the ridges from east to west is optimal for tall plants and vertical trellises: the low morning rays of the sun freely slide along the rows of plants, illuminating each of them. For low plants, the orientation of ridges is of no fundamental importance.
Reference by topic: How to make a beautiful garden - planning and setting up a garden with your own hands
About garden land
For the cultivation of vegetables, the lower part of the northern slope and the surrounding area, the basins, the raw lowlands with mineral soil, the former peat bogs are not favorable.
They require drainage, are shaded, excessive moisture, cold air are retained here.
Here the frost-free period is shorter by 14-21 days, at night the minimum temperatures are lower by XNUMX ° C.
In the centers of freezing - low-lying areas in which cold air accumulates - do not plant crops that are sensitive to cold (garden strawberries).
After thawing the soil in spring in the lowland, the soil dries longer, with heavy rains between the ridges there is water.
In this case, the height of the ridges for annual crops is made not lower than 20-25 cm, creating a system of drainage grooves for draining water.
The best soils are medium and light loamy, poor soils are rocky, clay, sandy, they require improvement or the creation of high ridges.
In the notebook gardener
- If the garden moistens only rain, it will yield only in the wet summer.
- Vegetable crops, whose weight is more than 80% water, are thirsty and demanding to moisten the topsoil.
- In dry weather, plants are watered at least 2-3 a week.
- Potatoes, ground tomatoes, pumpkin, sunflower, corn are especially resistant to drought.
Reference by topic: Landscaping of the site - where to start: the construction of the area around the cottage
On the water in the garden
- Planning the garden, study the water permeability of the site.
- In the lowland and at a high level of groundwater do drainage of the site, which allows you to keep the garden to the measure of dry.
- When the soil is saturated with moisture, the plants die because of the lack of oxygen.
- Excess moisture leads to rot, phytophthora, significantly reducing yield.
- On dry soils along the perimeter of the ridge, earthen ridges (embankments) are created, so that when watering water will be retained.
- Minimum water supply of the garden is necessary. О For a reservoir water source, water barrels, faucet, wells - find a convenient place.
- The best water for irrigation is rain or taken from open water bodies (pond, river, lake).
- Cold water from an artesian well and a well is poured into a container, allowed to warm to air temperature before irrigation (+ 18 ... 20 ° С).
- It facilitates the care of the garden for drip irrigation of plants through a branched irrigation system.
© Author: Margarita Grigoryeva. Author photo
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Rules for summer watering and fertilizer + what kind of watering are
- Edible flowers - what kind of flowers can I eat?
- Compatibility of vegetables - table (personal experience)
- Pickling tomato seedlings - my advice (Kemerovo region)
- Crop rotation on shaded beds
- Cultivation of vegetables by the method of Mitlajdera in the open ground on narrow ridges.
- Reproduction of nuts: walnut, black and heart-shaped
- Growing Southern crops and their acclimatization in view of climate change
- Neighborhood of plants in the flower garden and vegetable garden, plant antagonists
- Soil for seedling with own hands - composition, components, what to add
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
When we had a dacha, my husband and I first drafted a plan for the future garden on a sheet of paper.
We certainly wanted it to consist of decorative shrubs. Now this is a real paradise! All the plants in their place, do not interfere with each other and make up a beautiful, harmonious composition. And here are a few secrets that will surely help those who are only going to break up the flowering garden.
To prevent the garden from turning into impenetrable jungle, you need to place low-growing shrubs (for example, dwarf conifers, heather, Japanese spiraea) at a distance of 70-80 cm from each other, medium-sized (mock marsh, henomeles, rhododendron) - 120-150 cm, and high-
tall (common hawthorn, lilac, viburnum, forsythia) - at least 2 m from each other.
Do not plant deciduous shrubs (spiraea, snow leopard, magnolia star, chubushnik) interspersed with evergreen (boxwood, holly, rhododendron).
It is better to bring beautiful flowering shrubs (roses, spirea, rose hips) to the foreground - at the entrance or in front of the facade of the house, and decorate the largest with arbors, sheds, garages. Small shrubs are good at designing borders, and larger ones - at the turns of paths, at the corners of the site, when creating hedges.