9 Review (s)

  1. Anatoly

    I do not know how other dacha residents, and I for a long time could not solve the problem with tanks for diving seedlings.
    I used all available milk packages and peat pots. But their shortcomings just made me angry. And their most important disadvantage is that no matter how you twist, no matter how tricky you are, and when planting plants you will inevitably damage their roots (in the first place, this applies to peat pots). In the end, I decided that it would be much better to make the containers myself.
    To do this, take sheets of drawing paper (for those with children who are drawing, I will especially like my method, especially since throwing away old drawings is an unforgivable waste) and cut them into
    The gloss is the width of 100-120 mm. Then I turn off the cylinders with a diameter of 80-100 mm, fasten the clerical clips and set them in drawers. I put a soil in the paper tubes and dive into them.
    When it's time to plant the plants in the open ground, I transfer the whole farm to the dacha, put each cup in a dug well and sprinkle with the soil. Then I cut the paper with scissors and pull it out.
    And the root system of plants does not suffer at all!
    I was convinced of this when I started to harvest richer crops.

    Reply
  2. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    If the seedling is stretched
    There may be several reasons for this: increased temperature (more than + 25 degree), excessive watering and top dressing. But most of the plants are stretched from lack of light. I struggle with this as follows: I do not thicken the seeds when sowing, after picking, I place the cups on the windowsill freely, so that the leaves do not interlace.
    Victoria Prishepova

    Reply
  3. Natalia SKIDINA, town of Kotelniki

    When I thin out the seedlings, I do not pull out the plants, so you can damage the roots of the "neighbors" that have not yet become stronger. Just pinch off the aboveground part of weak shoots.
    When picking, I remove the seedlings from the box, holding them for the cotyledons. For a better formation of the lateral roots, I pinch the central spine.

    Reply
  4. Love Yakovenko, Mykolaivka.

    Previously dipped tomatoes in sour cream cups or cut into two pieces of PET bottles in volume 1,5-2l. The tanks were comfortable, but due to the fact that in them for excess water drain pierced the holes, the moisture seeped onto the windowsills. They had to make something or put glasses on pallets. And this is problematic on my rather narrow window sills. The same PET bottles came to the rescue, only to use them became a bit different. О Cut off the bottoms at the bottoms just below the middle of the tank, turn the top parts down with their necks, insert them into the lower ones, fill them with soil and dive seedlings into them. Get beautiful pots with pallets in size and holes for draining excess water. In addition, they are conveniently planted on plants in the garden: he unscrewed the lid, pushed the lump with his finger - and he easily went out.
    A neighbor feeder cuts off the top and bottom of the PET bottles. The remaining cylinder in one place cuts along and fastens back with large clips on both sides. He puts the cylinders on the pallet, fills the ground and dives eggplants and peppers. When planting on a plant, the plants are not injured: they carry seedlings in a greenhouse on a pallet, places a cup in the holes and already there removes the paper clips, removing the cylinder.

    Reply
  5. Larisa DENISOVA, city of Otradny, Samara region.

    Peat pots: for and against
    The advantages of peat pots for seedlings are obvious: they are eco-friendly, breathing, and decomposing, they turn into a good fertilizer.
    In addition, we do not need to remove seedlings from them when transplanting, which means that root damage is excluded. However, they have disadvantages.
    Last year I purchased peat pots for growing vegetable seedlings, but then regretted it. Since peat strongly absorbs moisture, plants often had to be watered, otherwise the soil dried up, and the pot itself "cringed." In addition, the water flowed through the pots, and I had to put all the seedlings on pallets. By the time of the transplantation, most of the pots began to fall apart, and this was uncomfortable when transporting the seedlings from the apartment to the dacha. I also noticed that in a normal cardboard box, covered from the bottom and sides with food film, the seedlings developed better than in peat pots, and it did not get any worse. Therefore, before choosing a container for growing seedlings, it is worthwhile weighing the pros and cons. You can conduct an experiment: plant seeds in different containers and compare. Perhaps you will have different results.

    Reply
  6. Olga

    For the cultivation of tomato seedlings, a nutritious, but light, loose, air-permeable soil is required. Therefore, do not take the land directly from the garden, even if your area is a luxurious chernozem. Such a primer is too dense, it will be difficult for young plants to grow in it.
    However, the garden land is about half of the good seedlings. It should be harvested from autumn and stored in a cold room, periodically adding up for a week to heat. Several cycles of thawing and freezing will allow to clean the soil of pests and diseases. You can not take land from there, where representatives of the same
    nightshade nightshade, like tomatoes: from under potatoes, eggplant, peppers, physalis. The best predecessor ... nettles! Under its large rhizomes there is good soil, free from many pathogenic microbes.
    To the garden soil add sand, peat, rotten sawdust, a little wood ash and superphosphate. To do this it is necessary for 2 weeks before planting seedlings, so that the soil is settled and acquired uniformity. If the soil has an unpleasant or putrefactive smell, it should be steamed about 20 min., Placing in a colander, over a pot of boiling water. After this, you can additionally spill a solution of a microbiological preparation.

    Reply
  7. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    The gardeners with the experience have already developed their own seed sowing system for seedlings: a certain container, soil mixtures. Now all this can be bought in the store. I use my containers and ground mixtures, which with the least cost can achieve the desired result.
    For sowing seeds, I use plastic boxes in which 400 × 280 mm of fruit and vegetables are brought to markets and shops. Such a box is easy to place on the windowsill. First, I insert the film into it, and then I fill the soil.
    I also prepare my own soil. In the fall I take turfy soil from the beds. Well, if there are mounds dug by moles, such a land is the most fertile and does not contain impurities. I choose humus from the compost heap. I sift it all through the grate and fall asleep separately in the tanks. I buy peat in the store. I leave everything freezing for the winter on the street. In the spring before sowing I bring home.
    When the soil recoils, I prepare a mixture of turf ground, humus and peat soil in the ratio 1: 1: 2 (10 handfuls of soil and humus and 20 handfuls of peat). I add 4 a handful of sand and a handful of ashes. Thoroughly mix, and the mixture is ready. I put it in a box, I pour hot water, a solution of potassium permanganate, and after sowing I sow the seeds.
    In the above box you can sow in the 4 row, between seeds not less than 2 cm, if after a sprouting of seedlings is supposed. If not dive, then in the 3 series, the distance between the seeds is not less than 5, see the film cover the ground before emergence. So I grow tomato seedlings.

    Reply
  8. Margarita Slavyankina, Tver

    In what plant?
    Gardening was engaged relatively recently, and I still can not decide which capacity for growing individual seedlings will be optimal?

    Reply
    • Margaret

      According to the requirements for seedlings, there will be some variation in different garden plants. But since seeds of peppers, aubergines and tomatoes are sent first to the "plowed field of the window sill", we'll talk about them.
      The packaging must be opaque!
      It seems to be convenient to use transparent plastic disposable cups, both inexpensively and the volume is suitable ... But on the inner surface of the transparent cup very often soil algae grows, which with its metabolites adversely affect the root system of the plants living here. So sweep!
      2 Tare more than 300 ml volume. Okay, but it takes a lot of space - times. and secondly, the land, not mastered by the root-
      mi, tends to sour - and this seedlings will kill for sure. A container less than 100 ml is frankly small, only if you will not constantly and thoughtfully use top dressing. Fuck ...
      3 It is better to use a disposable, homemade container (there are many options). Used - threw out. No care either with storage, or with sterilization.
      4 And ​​probably the optimal capacity is 250 ml, and the vessels should be "wide": if you imagine the projection of such container as a rectangle on the short side, then the ratio of the short and long sides should be 1: 1,5, not more.

      Reply

Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible