Inoculation of tomatoes by convergence of shoots (ablactivation)
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How to plant tomatoes by bringing together adjacent shoots - personal experience
Finally, I decided to apply a new method for growing tomatoes: to plant two stems by bringing their shoots closer together. Scientifically, this is called ablactation - the simplest, in my opinion, operation for an inexperienced gardener. Even if the vaccine does not succeed, the plant will not die and the crop will not be affected. In general, one “leg” of a tomato is good, and two are even better. After all, plants will have the opportunity to receive double nutrition, which means that they will be able to form larger fruits of larger size.
My tomatoes occupy two ridges 6 m long. I plant only tall varieties, and only in a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate, and only in one row - it is more convenient to look after them.
Well, all my care for them begins with growing seedlings. Seeds are usually sown in mid-February, the day of the fetus according to the lunar sowing calendar. Say early? But I just need a bigger backlog in time, since the seedlings will have to form the very additional root system, and even the stalks together will not be quick.
After the emergence of the shoots of the plant, I lighten up 14 hours per day. Shoots, of course, a little stretch, but in our parts of sunny days in the winter the cat wept.
In addition, I do not agree with the view that stretching the seedlings adversely affects the yield: if you provide even a stunted plant good care, then everything will be in order. Well, for vaccinations, I just need a long stem.
Before the appearance of the second real leaf, my tomatoes grow in one container. I'm going to separate pots after the appearance of the second real leaf. I do not do the picking, considering it a waste of time, because the rest of the time before the planting in the greenhouse tomatoes will build up an additional root system. How? And more on this later.
Reference by topic: Increased yield of tomatoes
"X" in the greenhouse
I used to transplant plants in milk boxes, now in pots with a diameter of 11-12 cm and a height of at least 15. I put a thin layer of moss on the bottoms and sprinkle a little earth. Then, with a teaspoon, I carefully take out the plant and put it in a pot, and then I fill the plant with earth to the cotyledon leaves. Part of the stem is in the ground, and there, additional roots will begin to form. DHe be careful not to sprinkle plants on the ground: tomato is an unpretentious creature, it is difficult to ruin it. Only bad soil can kill him.
Plant care is common; once a week top dressing with liquid mineral fertilizer. As the seedlings grow, I remove its lower leaves and add soil until the pots are full. After that, I begin to expose them for hardening plants on a glazed balcony facing east. There, by this time, it was already warm enough, and the door to the room was constantly open. I note that seedlings have to be planted twice as much as required, because an additional “leg” will be grafted to each plant. This is the only negative of this method, but the result is worth it.
In the greenhouse planted seedlings in the second half of April (but if the street is a negative temperature, then do it later). In the holes I add a little ash, complex chlorine fertilizer and calimagnesium, mix well. Organic is laid in the ridge since the autumn. The very landing I spend in the evening or in cloudy weather.
Tomatoes intended for grafting, planting in pairs at a distance of 15 cm and inclined to each other, but the roots of them while unfolding in opposite directions.
As a result, from the side the stems resemble the letter “X”. Then I attach each inclined plant to the stick. The left will then serve as a graft, and the right as a stock. Before planting the entire seedlings, I remove the lower three leaves on the stems.
The remaining lowest leaves on the plants should be almost near the ground, but not touch it. And here comes one interesting point. Brushes with fruits will also be formed on the ground itself, while they appear, as is known, after 6–8 leaves in “not plucked” tall mats. It turns out that I still save space in the greenhouse.
Some gardeners here will notice that the development of additional roots on the stems causes a slowdown in plant growth, which means that the fruits will appear later. In principle, of course, this is all true, but it is not in vain that I plant seedlings very early, in late April or early May. This time shift does not in the least violate the usual timing of crop ripening. Even more than that, it gives me a small gain.
After disembarkation again I water the plants with a solution of microbiological fertilizer and close the planting with a thick covering material. At noon, I take it off, and at 17 I put it on again. And tomatoes under such cover are not cold, even if they hit back frosts.
Reference by topic: Growing tomatoes from A to Z
Inoculation of tomatoes with their own hands
Well, now about the most interesting thing - about vaccinations. I proceed to them in 2-3 weeks after landing. It is important not to miss the right moment - the stems should be rounded in cross section. If they become flat, with recesses, then the places of vaccinations will not grow together well. It is better to plant in cloudy weather, on the day of the fetus on the rising moon, in extreme cases, on the day of the flower. At this time, the rise in juice in plants is stronger.
And you can not get vaccinated on the root day, as all the strength of tomatoes is concentrated in the roots. Once I tried at this time, and no vaccination has grown together. If the weather is sunny, then I plant tomatoes in the evening. After the operation of the plant, I pritenyayu from the sun with thin covering material for a couple of days.
And one more important condition: do not water the plants a few days before vaccination - they must slightly tighten, otherwise the stems will be brittle. And remove from them two bottom sheets.
For vaccinations I use the following inventory: a sharp razor, scissors, tape, cotton wool, a vial with salicylic alcohol or vodka. I put everything in a small small basket, so that it was on hand.
Then I untie the plants from the sticks, I connect the top part of tomatoes with tape (but not tightly). I choose the most convex parts of the stems in their lower parts and connect them to see if they reach each other.
I wipe my hands and blade with cotton dipped in alcohol or vodka. I make identical cuts on the scion and rootstock 4-5 cm long from top to bottom, while removing a very thin layer of the skin (after each such cut, disinfect the blade again). I connect the places of the slices together. With my left hand I hold the stems firmly, and with my right hand I tightly wind them with electrical tape in a spiral, moving progressively from the bottom up. Slices necessarily grow together if they are firmly connected to each other. And the electrical tape should stretch well - the other will not do.
Since I plant already adult tomatoes, then I do not remove the bandage from the insulating tape. After carrying out all the vaccinations on privoe I remove the upper part of the stem, leaving only the two lower leaves, and the place of the cut is covered with garden vine.
I water both plants, but at the same time I spray the rootstock with a solution of a growth stimulant. After two weeks on the scion I delete the bottom sheet, and after another one - the top one. Vaccinations completely fuse in about two and a half weeks. If grafting does not occur, then the crop will still be the same as with conventional cultivation.
Even, perhaps, “wounded” plants will yield a more generous crop, because after the stress from trauma their development accelerates.
I know that many gardeners are afraid to injure tomatoes. So my parents, when I did these inoculations, scolded me because I mocked the unfortunate plants. Here the main thing is to isolate such observers, so as not to interfere.
Experiments with tomatoes continue
After removing the last leaf on marshmallow planting compost. By the way, it is also necessary to monitor the graft: one should not allow stepchildren appearing on it, which grow very quickly. The rest of the care for plants is the same as usual: regular watering (when the earth dries up near the roots), weekly feeding and the removal of the same stepchildren are already on the stock. Remove leaves, stepchildren and pinch plants best on the waning moon on the root day. These days the danger of secreting juice is the least.
I limit the growth of tomatoes at the end of July - I delete the upper part of the plant (except for cherry tomatoes). I especially want to pay attention to the opening hours of greenhouses in the morning. In greenhouses made of cellular polycarbonate, this should be done no later than 9 a.m.
Otherwise, the air will heat up there, and the pollen of the plants will become sterile, and you will miss the harvest.
I tried to get vaccinations at the stage of small seedlings at home. But she refused this venture due to the fact that the stem is still very thin and fragile - it spoiled many seedlings by breaking them. Yes, and transporting such fused seedlings is problematic. And it’s even more difficult then to plant it alone in the soil from two pots at the same time, because I don’t have like-minded people.
Yes, there is another problem: it is important for me to grow as much as possible on the plant roots, and it is impossible to do this on the grafted seedlings. If you plant two tomatoes in one pot and then plant them, then in one tank it will not be possible to build up a good root system in two plants at the same time. Those vaccinated at an early stage of plant seedlings need to constantly bandage the place of vaccination because of the constant growth of stems, and this is troublesome.
For the purity of the experiment, I selected several varieties and hybrids. Planted them next to each other: grafted and control specimen without vaccination, so that the difference in the fruit bearing of plants was visible. And it was noticeable. And especially noticeable was the difference in the cold rainy summer.
The grafted plants were given a richer harvest, and the fruits there were much larger. Every year, planted seedlings in the greenhouse all earlier and earlier. Last year, it did 18 April, and as a result, the first tomatoes were formed after 20 May. D When in the autumn I remove plants from the greenhouse, I have to tinker with them: despite the loose soil, the root system is very powerful and long. So I'm doing everything right.
I also tried to vaccinate on cucumber plants - I planted them on a pumpkin.
The vaccination was done in the same way. Here, too, have their own subtleties. The operation was carried out already at the seedling stage, because later the stems of pumpkin cultures become hollow. Vaccinations did, when on the cucumber plant there were only 2-3 real leaf. The stem must be elongated, which often occurs in seedlings. Pumpkin seeds for seedlings need to be sown later cucumber, when the first real leaves appear on cucumbers, because his neighbor grows faster.
Planted plants with the same thickness of the stem. Lower leaves did not remove. A few days before the inoculation, the seedlings were also not watered. Everything else is like with tomatoes. Only the pumpkin can not remove the bottom two leaves, otherwise it will die. After the troublesome inoculations of the cucumber, after experiments it refused, because in my greenhouse cucumbers already give very large yields. Suffices and for food, and for billets, and friends we treat.
I advise gardeners themselves to try vaccinations on several plants, using extra tomato seedlings. Immediately, I do not advise all plants to be vaccinated, until you gain experience. And you will see for yourself the advantages of this method, although it will require additional work.
See also: Cultivation of determinant tomatoes - formation and pasynkovanie
Vaccination of tomatoes: photo
© Author: Olga Vyacheslavovna Rubtsova Leningrad Region
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Warm, but not hot!
No less carefully you need to monitor the temperature. Although tomatoes are thermophilic plants, overheating can be no less dangerous than hypothermia.
If the temperature at night exceeds 22-24 ° (which is not uncommon in the house), then at night the plants spend on breathing almost all the nutrients that manage to synthesize during the day. Seedlings in this case grows thin and lethargic. Therefore, it is desirable to provide a daytime temperature of about 20-18th night - about 16-18 °. At the time of the appearance of the first shoots, the temperature should be even lower:
16-18 ° - during the day and 12-14 ° - at night.
However, the temperature of an earthen coma should never fall below 12 ~, otherwise the roots will not be able to actively work and develop. The rule “keep your head in the cold, and your feet warm” must be observed perfectly! To maintain heat in the soil, it is advisable to place containers with seedlings on a stand - an “air cushion” between the bottom of the container and the window sill will help to avoid overcooling of the roots.
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Ablactation is a method that allows you to form a powerful root system in a plant. 2 seedlings dive into one container. After the formation of 2-3 of these leaves in each of them, part of the skin is removed from the stems, the plants are pressed with wounds and fixed with a bandage. After splicing, one of the seedlings is cut above the splicing site.