11 Review (s)

  1. Love Bondarenko, Georgievsk

    Cucumbers do not want to bear fruit?

    Sometimes, you plant excellent healthy seedlings, then the plants appear long-awaited ovaries, but some of them suddenly turn yellow and wilt. Why is this happening and how?

    Lack of nutrition. It is necessary to make mineral fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, pour a fertile soil to the whips to form additional roots.

    The absence of pollination. To attract bees, sprinkle cucumbers with a weak solution of honey and plant flowers next to the greenhouse.

    The thickening of plantings. At 1 sq. M. m should not grow more than 2-3 plants, otherwise they will interfere with each other. You can correct the situation if you grow cucumbers vertically and form whips (the scheme is usually on the package with seeds).

    Violation of water balance. Do not overdry the soil, soak the morning or evening hours with warm water.

    Sharp weather change. To reduce the effect of temperature changes, treat plant growth stimulants during such periods of the plant.

  2. Larisa Zhavoronkova. Kolomna city. Moscow Region

    I want to share my experience of growing cucumbers "on the pillow." My home very fond of this juicy vegetable, so I took a lot of space in the garden
    I cook the garden in the fall, but it can also be done in early spring. I determine the place - the length of the bed is free, and the width is 1-1,5 m.I start to lay n;> this place is everything that is on the site and at home: grass, remnants of flowers, waste from vegetables and food (for this I have a special bucket). Thus, I lay in the garden throughout the winter. It turns out a kind of high ridge of waste.
    In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, I spread the soil prepared in advance on this place, preferably more - with a layer of 5-10 cm. The soil is better to take peat, humus or plain with peat. Then I cover the ridge with a film so that it warms up. It is better to take black film, since grass begins to grow under light.
    I call my bed a pillow. You don’t need to dig it - just build up the allotted corner and that's it. Before planting cucumbers, it will warm up due to decay of waste, grass and generate heat.
    Each gardener determines the time for planting cucumbers for himself. But after sowing the seeds, the pillow ”still needs to be covered with a film. So cucumbers take root faster - it’s warm from below, they gain strength faster, earlier they give cucumbers and bear fruit longer.
    I plant this way for three years already. For comparison, at the same time she planted cucumbers elsewhere in the ground, fed, sheltered, but the cucumber was 2-3 times; less.

  3. Taisia ​​ILCHUK, Armavir

    I want to share recipes for feeding cucumbers, which, if desired, can also be used on other vegetables and even indoor flowers.
    Nettle: I cut off plants, slightly grind them, fill them with half a bucket, pour 10 l of water and cover it loosely. After 5 days, when the nettle perebrodite, I liter dilute the liter in 10l water and water cucumber.
    Yeast: in the 3-liter jar I pour 2,5-2,7 l of standing water. 100 g fresh yeast diluted in warm water, adding half a cup of sugar. I pour the yeast into the jar, cover it with gauze and leave to wander, from time to time shaking the contents. The solution will be ready when fermentation stops. For top dressing, stir the 1 glass in 10 l of water and use 1 l per bush.

  4. Irina V. KUDRINA, city of Voronezh

    The last couple of years began to grow cucumbers in a seedling way. The reason for this was the raids of ants on cucumber seeds after sowing. They just ate them! I had to sow them anew several times. Neither red ground pepper nor mustard, which was poured by the planting next to the seeds, helped. Perhaps, two or three weeks later, I still waited for the first fruits. This, of course, did not suit me.
    I decided to drop the cucumbers. Abundantly watered them and zamulchiro-
    ma, and already grown plants transported to the country. But here I am faced with a new nuisance. Cucumbers in cups with constantly moist earth in the heat of an apartment rise, grow and ... invariably outgrow much faster. No matter how I tried to provide them with optimal development conditions, the shoots stretched very strongly and before planting in open ground they always had a deplorable appearance: the stems are thin, the leaves are pale.
    For the first time, having grown such a disgusting seedling, I decided that now I could not wait for the harvest. But she did not become discouraged, but tried to experiment.
    In the garden I dug the holes deeper and planted this vegetable, by cutting it to the very-very ears, "that is, to the first decent leaves. Leaves that were lower,
    tree with grass. The next weekend, after arriving again at the dacha, was pleasantly surprised. Cucumbers became stronger, the leaves became dark green. Plants quickly moved into growth and began to build up whips much faster than those. which I used to plant directly in the soil. I got much more harvest in that season than in previous years. After thinking it over, I realized that by cutting off the seedlings during planting, I achieved the formation of many additional roots. And a more powerful root system, naturally, contributed to an excellent harvest.
    Now I'm not worried about cucumber seedlings. She, as always, stretches from me 8 home conditions, but I know that I can rectify the situation.

  5. Tatiana SKVORETS, Moscow

    It is believed that cucumbers and tomatoes cannot be planted in the same greenhouse, because the former require moist air and increased soil moisture, and the latter require dry air and moderately moist soil. However, I manage to combine planting of two cultures using a hydrogel.
    I soak my granules in the water for the night, and then, during the transplantation of the cucumber seedlings, add an 0,5 glass of hydrogel to each well. This allows further significantly reduce the intensity of irrigation. As a result, cucumbers also get enough water, and tomatoes do not suffer from dampness.
    Increase the humidity of the air near each cucumber bush is helped me by ordinary grass. I mulch it with soil around the seedlings with a layer of up to 10cm and weekly afterwards I add a fresh herb over the armful (the old one dries up and settles). Decomposing, organic releases heat, heats the soil and intensifies evaporation. The air in the greenhouse is not moistened so much that it damages the tomatoes, but the cucumbers have enough moisture.

  6. O. BERKO The Moscow region.

    Do you want to grow the maximum yield, but there is not much ground for this?
    1 30-ies of the last century, scientists conducted an experiment on the maximum yield of cucumber in the open field. Which planting scheme is optimal in the field? For four years, scientists have received the following astonishing results.
    at a distance between seedlings 16 cm 29,9 t;
    if between the plants it remained for 12 cm, the yield increased to 32,4;
    • 8 cm were left — 34,5 t were obtained; - ”4cm - 45,4t.
    • at 16 cm - 58,9 t; at 12 cm - 74,5 t; at 8 cm - 81,5 t; at 4 cm - 119,2 t.
    The weight of fruit was taken into account, and it was found that with a more frequent planting the weight of the commodity fruit decreased, but so insignificant that it could not be taken into account. And when you have your seeds, you do not really think about their value. Spend them more, harvest will pay for everything. Each plant will have a slightly smaller number of fruits, but in aggregate their total weight will still be higher.
    I decided to test this experience in my own garden. Seeds I use only their own, they do not cost anything, and the quality is always higher than purchased ones.
    On the area 12 square. I usually planted about 40 cucumbers {I grow without a garter), getting about 55 kg of green (plus or minus, of course, because something outgrows, is discarded and left to seeds). For the experiment, I planted 120 seeds here. And received a crop of 112 kg. Thus, planting three times more plants, I received a two-fold increase in yield without additional investment (except for the costs of germinating more seeds).
    And I concluded: the yield increase is unconditional, but it is much more difficult to collect it. In addition, with such agrotechnics, the soil is depleted much faster, and when re-sowing is required,
    twofold volume of fertilizers. So such a method of planting can be used with a small area of ​​the site.

    • A. KONSTANTINOVICH, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Associate Professor

      With this planting scheme, you can get a great harvest. But here you need to take into account the significant consumption of seeds and a short period of fruiting. Forced to fight for existence, the plants in constant stress quickly grow old and fall ill. So, they will bear fruit very abundantly, but not for long.

  7. Valery MATVEEV

    Cucumber agrotechnics:
    Alternate the culture in the greenhouse.
    Weed out greenhouse weeds and plant residues in a timely manner.
    Periodically change the soil or at least its upper layer (in spring).
    Do not thicken the plants.
    Maintain humidity in the greenhouse at the level of 80-85%.
    Loosen and mulch the land.
    Often inspect the plants. If there are many ticks and the removal of affected leaves, the situation can not be corrected, treat the bushes with acaricides, for example, Aktellik (every two weeks, according to the instructions).
    With an insignificant number of ticks, the affected leaves can not be cut off, but sprinkled with more sparing preparations - colloidal sulfur (70 g per 10 L of water), Bitoxibacillin (50 g per 5 L of water), pollinated with ground sulfur (2-3 g for 1 sq. ).

  8. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    1. We take a cucumber vine without transplanting it and not affecting the root system.
    2. Remove all leaves from the vine, except the top.
    3. The top is left to pass the process of photosynthesis.
    4. With the help of a scoop we water the soil abundantly with our fish solution.
    5. Begin to gently twist the long stem of a cucumber on a spiral.
    6. Such a spiral should work!
    7. We take the usual female hairpins.
    8. And in several places we peg our vine to the ground.
    9.There, where there are internodes, will soon be fresh shoots. Choose the strongest of them, the rest we delete. This escape will be a new vine.

  9. Council

    1. To feed the impoverished land where cucumbers grew, we prepare fertilizer from fish heads and fins, because cucumbers love phosphorus. We use a pound of fish waste per liter of water.
    2. We insist our solution for three days before the appearance of foam.
    3. We add a glass of ash to the fish solution.
    4. Mix thoroughly. It turned out the perfect organic fertilizer. It is also well suited for gourds - pumpkins, melons, watermelons.

  10. Anatoly MARKOV, city of Kaluga

    So that cucumbers grow well, they should be fed every 2 weeks, and it is better to do this with complex fertilizers, introducing them in dissolved form - about 30-50 g per 1 sq. m. But what if there are no complex fertilizers?
    I take 20 g of nitrogen fertilizers, 30 g of phosphorus, the same amount of potassium and stir in Yul water. Such a solution is enough for 1,5-2 square. m area. Before I apply fertilizing, I water the soil. After top dressing, to wash away from the leaves of cucumber droplets from a solution of mineral fertilizers, water the plants with water from above.
    You can also feed the cucumbers with a bird's litter. If it is dry, then it should be diluted in the ratio 1: 20, if the litter is fresh, then 1: 10. Cow manure will do, but it should be diluted in the proportion of 1: 10.
    In addition, the cucumber for normal growth requires carbon dioxide. For this, in the barrels of water that stand in the cucumber greenhouse, I add fresh cow dung, which as a result of fermentation releases carbon dioxide.


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