Planting potatoes with seeds to update the planting material
Contents ✓
Growing potatoes in the Kurgan region - seed renewal
I'll talk about planting potatoes with seeds to update the planting material. I thought about new varieties not by chance: the old ones gave less and less harvest, despite the fact that the way of planting did not change.
And for a start, I changed it. I tried to plant sprouts under the straw in a non-soil land, the tubers sprouted in sawdust. The harvest was better than usual, but I wanted more. So I decided to update the seed material, bought bags.
The first year of planting with seeds came to an end, without having had time to start: the seeds welled up, they rose perfectly, but after the transplantation the thin bilberry withered. Probably, the cups were great for these little babies, and last year I corrected my mistake. So, I will briefly describe my successful experience 2015 year.
See also: Planting potatoes from A to Z
1. Seeds spread on wetted fabric in a plastic container, cover and wait until they proklyutsya. Some varieties of potatoes release roots together in three to four days, others in a week, more.
2. Then spread the seeds into the grooves, drawn with a toothpick on the surface of the moist earth in a shallow container, and lightly press it. I cover with a transparent lid.
3. A few days later shoots appear on long legs (apparently, there is not enough light). The first time I water only from the syringe, neatly, under the root. Periodically aired, opening the container.
4. After the appearance of these leaves I make a transplant.
5. I do it very carefully and carefully, so as not to damage the tiny stalk.
In the transplantation last year produced twice: first in plastic glasses, and after the rootlets took up the entire volume (the cups are transparent, and the roots all in plain view), transplanted into plastic cups.
6. I planted on a permanent place in early May, adding to each well humus mixed with ash. Chemistry is not used for reasons of personal safety. As the climate is sharply continental and reflux frosts are possible, I cover the landing with cover material until the end of May.
7. With the strengthened seedlings I remove the shelter and mulch the sloping, slightly dried grass. I water in the dry period.
8. The potato seed from the seeds was not inferior to the tops planted with tubers. And the whole garden was in bloom {Photo 1).
9. I dug potatoes in early September in dry weather and got a pretty good crop of nodules for further planting. Some tubers are palm-sized, while others are pea-sized (photo 2,3).
See also: Potatoes from seeds
When planting potatoes from seeds, the so-called mini-tubers turned out. After landing next year, I count on getting these nodules to get a super-elite, free of viral diseases.
Advice from a specialist
GRADE MUST BE CHANGED
Perennial cultivation of potatoes requires the renewal of seed material, as this culture is affected by viral, bacterial and fungal diseases, which cause a sharp decline in yield.
This is particularly clearly seen in 5-th reproduction and reaches a maximum in the b-7-th. Depending on the cultivation zone and varietal characteristics, the decrease in the yield of fifth reproductions reaches 13-16% or more.
Therefore, it is necessary in a timely manner - once every five years - to replace one variety with another, which should be better than the previous one in terms of productivity and long-term ability
When selecting varieties, it is necessary to be guided by the fact that the potato yield highly depends on the good moisture supply of plants during the period of active tuberization, which coincides with the time of budding - the beginning of flowering. However, rains fall in different years at different times. Therefore, they may not be equally useful for all varieties in each year. For example, atmospheric precipitation in the second half of June - the first half of July is most useful for early and mid-early varieties, in the second half of July - the first half of August - for middle-ripening and medium-late, and in later terms - for late-ripening.
Uneven precipitation over the years does not ensure the receipt of annually high, stable harvests of tubers. Annual yield fluctuations for this reason can reach 25-30%. In this regard, for the full use of moisture, it is very important that at least three varieties with different vegetation periods are grown on the site.
GOOD SEEDS - A PLEDGE OF A LARGE HARVEST
In order to get a good harvest, you need to stock up on quality seed. Even in the summer in the garden you need to watch how the bushes grow. Those that outstrip others in development should be noted by tying the ribbon.
From the marked bushes shortly before harvesting, it is necessary to cut off the tops (earlier than from other bushes). This is necessary not only for the tubers not to become infected with late blight, but also for them to mature well.
When you begin to dig the crop, lay out all the dug tubers so that they are visible, look at their quality. If there are ugly and diseased tubers in a nest, then the whole “family” is no good for seed. If all tubers are flat in the nest, evaluate the yield. For example, if a variety of 10 tubers goes from a nest, and in one of them 12 has grown, then we will remove such a nest especially, put it in a separate box.
Sign the label, variety name, year of selection. Next year, these tubers from the most productive nest, highlight the best, brightest place in your garden. And again, from this material, within the variety (remember: the variety cannot be mixed), select clones of the second year. Again - the best bushes, again - the most productive nests .. So selected selective seed material is collected.
Note
Potato is a culture of loose soil. The best soils for this culture are sandy loam, as well as light and medium loams. It should be borne in mind that growing potatoes in one place for a long time leads to lower yields. When preparing the soil for potatoes in autumn, they plow it or dig it up manually and leave it in the strata until spring. In the spring they make plowing or digging with loosening and leveling the soil.
HOW TO PREPARE STRAWBERRIES FOR PASSING?
There are simple and easy ways to do this. Seed tubers must be taken out of the cellar two weeks before planting, so that the potato sprouts strengthen. You can’t keep them in the dark for a long time, otherwise they will stretch out a lot. If there is not much seed potato, then it is better to germinate it in film bags, preferably in a bright place. In such conditions, the sprouts become strong and green, and the humidity in the bags will be optimal for the appearance of white roots.
However, it should be borne in mind that at low temperatures even sprouted potato sprouts, being in the ground at a depth of 5-8 cm, can get sick with a dangerous disease - rhizoctoniosis. Such potatoes will be sick for a long time, its sprouts are affected and die. Amateur gardeners can take the risk of planting potatoes in a small area at an earlier date. But if the temperature of the soil drops, the area above the potatoes must be covered with a film.
In the second method, tubers of early varieties are germinated in small quantities in a humid environment. Germinated potatoes are placed in boxes, on the bottom of which peat crust is poured with a layer of 5 cm and peat crust is covered with a layer of the same thickness. Peat crumbs are moistened with water or moistened with a solution of a mixture of fertilizers (30 g of potassium salt, 60 g of superphosphate and 15 g of urea per bucket of water).
The medium must be kept moist at a temperature of 12-15 degrees of heat. Through 15-20 days on the tubers are formed strong shoots of 3-4 cm and roots. In the soil, germinated tubers must be planted with a clod of earth in the early periods. It is necessary to supervise, that sprouts in boxes did not outgrow.
SEED POTATO - MY REVIEWS
From berries you can grow not only new berries, noah ... potatoes! Agree, the complete lack of fuss with seedlings plus saving space - this is a lot. And most importantly, nothing complicated.
Hello dear like-minded people! I already wrote about how easily I managed to grow strawberries from mashed berries in the summer right in the tub. And in the fall, I transplanted ready-made bushes to the garden bed. And last summer I had a similar situation with potatoes. Three years ago I wrote the planting material from Chelyabinsk. From sent tiny nodules grew good large tubers (see photo). But after all, their number was limited, and the potatoes needed not only to be put off for landing, but also for food.
Therefore, it was decided to try to grow part of the planting material from the seeds. She collected several “potato berries” in autumn and left them for ripening.
In winter, when I had more free time, I armed myself with tips and rushed into battle. From the berries allocated seeds, dried, packed in varieties in paper bags and set aside until spring. In March, sowed in boxes.
Seedlings ascended very quickly, and in huge numbers! Sprouts are long, thin as strings - oh and namayalsya! I understood that they were cramped, but any manipulations with them were impossible. All that I tried to dive did not survive due to the fact that the tiny stems immediately cracked. I felt like an elephant in a china shop! And where do you get enough containers and a place for so many seedlings? In general, I decided to leave it as it is. The family laughed at me: "We survived - we grow potatoes from seeds!"
POTATO SEEDS - THE MOST CONVENIENT OPTION
Spring was a sight for sore eyes. It’s warm, dry, and at the end of April my frogs migrated to the garden. It was very difficult to transplant them! She managed, sheltered with lutrasil on the arcs - grow with God! And then began continuous rains and cold. In short, I did not even find sprouts in the garden then. She spat and decided to abandon this venture. I emitted the remaining seeds, I don’t even know where.
And already somewhere in the end of June in the greenhouse, on the edge, right under the cucumbers, some sprouts rose on the carpet. Strange. Maybe some greens sown and forgotten? The fact that this is a potato of seeds, I realized, only when she began to form these leaves. Moreover, these plants were very different from the box of a box by their appearance: they grew at once sturdy, stocky, with beautiful leaves.
I watered and fed them along with cucumbers. And at the end of July I chose the very best 12 and transplanted it into a high liberated nursery, covering it with lutrasil.
I didn’t even take a picture - I didn’t hope that something would come out of this then.
But as time went on, and in a separate greenhouse the bushes sighed deeply, grew and soon bloomed. Autumn indulged the weather, the heat was kept for a long time.
In early October, I dug a half a bucket of seed from these bushes in size from cherry to walnut. Five potatoes were almost the size of a fist!
The harvest I harvested and divided into two parts: one left for spring planting, and the second planted in the winter. Let's see what happens.
I hope someone will come in handy this option planting - very convenient, no hassle with seedlings. In addition, in the greenhouse, plants are not afraid of either cold or rain or pests. It is possible to get stronger before transplanting, and does not take up a lot of seedlings.
All health and generous harvests!
© Author: Svetlana IONOVA Nizhny Novgorod Region
HOW I BREEDED AND UPDATED DUNYASHU
Many gardeners complain that when the varieties are renewed, tubers quite often grow, which do not resemble the "parents" either in size or color. However, there is an opinion that you should not be afraid of this, because the main goal has been achieved.
Once a famous writer and gardener Boris Andreevich Bublik came to our city for a seminar on organic farming, who after the lecture offered Dunyash potato seeds. I had never grown one like this before, so I bought some seed. I sowed it in the garden in the spring and covered it with a non-cloth so that the May winds did not dry out the earth. A week later I decided to check the plantings, looked under the shelter and was stunned - there was a whole "microdistrict" of ant nests on the garden bed! Apparently, these insects were very comfortable under the non-woven fabric, and there were so many of them that they literally fluffed up the whole earth and destroyed the rows.
How do you get rid of them? I decided to drive them out with water: every day I watered the garden abundantly. The ants got away from the constant dampness, but Dunyasha also sprouted only five bushes. True, they all turned out to be very fruitful. In the fall, she took the largest and most beautiful tubers from under the strongest plant and left them for divorce. And after a couple of seasons, Dunyasha already ruled the ball in the garden, although I did not refuse other proven varieties.
You can't say anything, this potato is good for everyone: its flesh is white, boiled, tasty. But on the bushes there are a lot of "ba-labolok" berries growing. At first I threw them out as unnecessary, and then, when Dunyasha began to degenerate, I remembered that in some letters to Dacha, gardeners shared their experience of renewing varieties with the help of these same “balaboloks”. I was delighted. But I began to re-read the binder and wondered: is this method so good?
VUzh too often summer residents expressed bewilderment about getting heterogeneous and colorful offspring.
And then I read the book by Andrey Stepanovich Udovitsky “Potatoes. Clever tips for a rich harvest ”(if only all gardeners could get to know her!) And in the chapter“ Winter potatoes. Know-how in Kostanai ”, which describes experiments at an experimental station in Kazakhstan, I found answers to all my questions.
It turns out that there is nothing particularly terrible in multi-colored offspring! The author of the book explains it this way: “The traits of the variety are not transmitted to seedlings due to strong splitting. Each berry seed is unique. " But the most important thing is that potatoes from such seeds grow healthy and of high quality, i.e. the update is still happening!
But you still need to be able to work with seed.
Unusual aroma is a signal for action
Inspired by the information, I decided to conduct an experiment, trying to heal two old varieties - Zekura (yellow) and Manifesto (red). In 2019, during harvesting, I collected balabolki bushes from the largest and most fruitful bushes and sent them to ripening in a warm room, where I put them in different varieties in different boxes.
From time to time I checked my "product" and threw out the berries with barrels starting to turn black. By mid-October, the remaining "balabolki" began to emit a smell of ... strawberries and changed their usual dark green color to a lighter one with a shade of yellow. These are signs that they are ready to plant.
Well, I planted them before winter on the same bed: Zeku-ru on the north side, Manifesto on the south. It was laid out shallowly into the furrows, trying to have 2-3 cm of soil above the berries after sprinkling. Between them I left gaps of about 15 cm, between rows - 50 cm each. The surface of the beds was left uncovered.
Looking ahead, I will say that, probably, if the distance between the "balabolki" is increased, then the potatoes will grow larger.
Last spring, seedlings on this experimental plot appeared late, in late May - early June. At the same time, the sprouts were strong and therefore quickly started to grow. Slots
she didn’t start planting, she only regularly pulled out the weeds. Later, the plants bloomed vigorously, and the flowers were of different colors. Then another question arose before me: is it necessary to spud such a potato? I didn’t, and perhaps in vain. And here's why: as the tops grew, whisker-like outgrowths appeared in the lower part of it.
I think these stolons were on the surface, and if they were in the ground after hilling, they would give additional tubers. Although, in each nest there were a lot of quite solid potatoes, and both varieties had them in three colors: yellow, pink and burgundy.
What happened in the end? I left the entire harvested crop to winter, and in the spring I will carefully select those tubers that are similar to the “parents” in shape, color and size. From the rest, I will choose the most interesting specimens and also plant them, but on separate beds. In any case, all this planting material is renewed, healthy and adapted to the local climate. So I hope for a good harvest in the new season. And then, you see, I will update Dunyasha in the same way.
I forgot to say that the soil in my garden is loam.
© Author: L. KARLOVA Cherepovets, Vologda region.
GROWING POTATO FROM SEEDS - VIDEO
© Author: Nadezhda KIRYANOVA Kurgan
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Why did potatoes stop growing on the plot?
- Potatoes with seeds (Tula region)
- Mulching potatoes - my feedback on the method of growing and harvest
- Proven technology for growing potatoes - preparation + processing + top dressing
- Potato variety Rocco (photo)
- Harvesting potatoes - step by step and correctly!
- Varieties of potatoes Estrella, Red Sonya, Donata, Gulliver, Evolution and others - expert reviews
- Varieties of potato Gala and Baron - my feedback
- Growing potatoes in the Nizhny Novgorod region: planting and care
- Potato cultivation - how to increase potato productivity by creating the right conditions for its growth
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Here's how I renewed my seed potatoes. Once I read an article (alas, I do not remember the name), the author of which advised: if you suddenly come across a tuber with small tubercles, save it until spring. And then plant these nodules separately, and then elite potatoes will grow from them. And let it be medium-sized, but with good varietal characteristics.
And so I went the year before last to dry the cellar before harvesting and found there a small potato lying lying around with tiny "potatoes". I brought it home, wrapped it in a rag, put it in a cheese box and put it in the refrigerator on the door. In the spring, I took out this tuber, separated the children from it and put it in a box with earth. All of them soon sprouted, and when they grew up, I planted them at the end of June in the middle of a garden with young strawberries. Several times I fed this potato with herbal infusion, but her tops still remained small. And when in the second half of September I began to dig in the bushes, I scooped out from under them a little less than half a bucket of small, but strong, clean and even tubers! I'll plant it in the spring and see what grows.
#
This year, on my advice, I tried to grow potatoes from seeds. Planted four varieties: Krasa, Ilona, Virgo and Revenge. It was very interesting to observe how real potato bushes grow from thin thread-shoots. With impatience waited, when time will come to clean harvest. And my joy was not to describe: all the bushes gave on 12 neat tubers the size of a quail egg and a little bit smaller. I left them all on the seeds and put them all in the spring.
And now I will tell you how I prepared the packaging for seedlings. Everyone is advised to make holes in the containers from below or from the side. For 30 years, I also did this. But a leaky container must necessarily be put on pallets, so that water does not fill the windowsills, and on them, every inch is counted. And then I've come up with a dry drainage.
I take for seedlings empty liter boxes from under the milk, put the halves of the eggshell in them upside down, and only then pour the earth. And voids form under the shell, where all the excess water flows during irrigation. And when I plant seedlings in the ground, I take it out with the shell, which I crush with my hands and leave in the holes - this is also an additional fertilizer for plants.
#
You can fertilize the pigeon droppings, in the five-story houses on the roofs half-mesh deposits. The potato is born large but with a flaw in the form of black spots.
#
Before laying for storage, I immediately sort the pre-dried potatoes. The one that is intended for human consumption, and the trifle for livestock feed, I immediately clean up in the basement. And once again I sort the seed into varieties, sprinkle with a thin layer and leave it in the light for a week or two. 8 in good weather I take the potatoes outside, but not in the sun, but in the shade. In bad - I leave in the barn with the door open so that daylight penetrates into the room. From time to time I rotate potatoes so that the light gets evenly on all tubers and from all sides.
It is necessary to do this in order for the tubers to develop solanine. This substance gives the tubers a green color and makes them unsuitable for use.
fission in food (that is why food potatoes need to be taken into the dark). But the solanine makes tubers inedible not only for humans, but also for insects, fungi, bacteria. Therefore, planted green potatoes are much better stored, less rots. Less interest is shown to him and rodents, which are no-no and they appear in the basement.
An additional benefit of autumn processing is that in spring, planted potatoes can later be removed from the basement - just a week or two before planting, and not a month (for vernalization). This means that there will be less dirt in the house and on the veranda; you won’t have to stumble over potato boxes for a month.
#
Dear truck farmers, help, please, to understand. I have grown potatoes for a long time, and there were no problems with it until recently: the harvest was good, the potatoes grew strong. But for the second year in a row an incomprehensible story has taken place. When I dig up the harvest, all the tubers are normal, without flaws. And when I start cleaning at home, I find out that in some there are some strange black veins and spots. It is necessary to throw out such a potato. It's a pity very much, but what can I do? That's why I want to ask: what is it? And what needs to be done to get rid of such defects?