Fighting Weeds - Part 3
Contents ✓
How to deal with weeds - means and methods
Nature does not tolerate emptiness - the justice of the postulate of the ancient Greek philosopher Aristotle can be confirmed by every gardener. We all know: any freshly excavated bed is instantly covered with weeds like a carpet. And this is no accident: in this way nature takes care that the earth does not stand idle and starts to bear fruit. Perhaps that is why it forces plants to produce seeds with a large supply (one bush of sow thistle produces 35 thousand seeds, and swans - over 100 thousand, but they are still not champions of fruiting). Sleeping seeds can doze in the soil for years and even decades, but as soon as favorable conditions arise - you dig the ground and they appear on the surface - they immediately wake up and grow.
Young cultivated plants are not able to compete with the "savages", because weed growth is a mistress on this land, for thousands of years she managed to adapt to the climate, soil, local plant and animal community.
In addition, weeds serve as a food base and “intermediate hosts” for various pests and diseases, to which they themselves are quite resistant. But for varietal sissies, contact with parasites can be fatal. Therefore, in order for your crops to grow, bloom and bear fruit, you need to know the strengths and weaknesses of their possible neighbors - assertive and vibrant.
And not so much to fight them (to fight with nature is more expensive for yourself!), But to outwit the aggressor and make him play by his own rules. How to do it? It’s very simple to get to know your enemies better.
In different climatic zones and on different soils - their plant communities. In the south, for example, shiritsa, mar-quinoa, wormwood, and bindweed are especially aggressive; in the temperate zone they are chickweed, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, mint, and cinquefoil.
But there are ubiquitous plants that are rampant everywhere: nettle, sow thistle, wood louse (starlet), and dandelion. Particularly noteworthy are the “overseas immigrants” brought to European territory, who not only took root, but also actively multiplied, becoming a serious problem. The most common of them are the hogweed of Sosnowski and the small-flowered halinsog. At the same time, more attractive invaders are present in our gardens, which, if kept in check, can decorate the site. But if you just let go of the reins, they will become the sources of many problems.
So, in the south, many gardeners complain of the wildly growing cotton wool, Jerusalem artichoke and the talanted dubious (red cucumber).
Yes, and in the temperate zone, some cultivated plants do not always behave as permitted, so you should be alert when planting, for example, such spicy herbs as mint or oregano in the garden, and in the flower garden - decorative sedges and miscanthus, garden geraniums, poppies, violets, sour acids, stonecrops, aquilegia, blueheads and some other plants.
See also: Weed control in the plot, cottage, garden - methods, tools and means
Weeds - Friends or Enemies
BORSHEVIK Sosnovsky - this green monster grows up to 3-4 m in height, and its roots go to the ground to a meter deep. No pests and diseases are not afraid of him, but he is able to suppress all plants around. It is very dangerous, since the leaves contain furanocoumarins - substances that enhance the sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet light, so touching the plant causes burns.
How to deal?
The most effective way is to cut off the ground part of the plant before flowering, dig out the root and burn everything. Do this in clothing that completely covers the body, with glasses and gloves. Another effective folk method of exterminating this insidious invader: cut the stalk of a cowberry, cut vinegar essence into its hollow base, or add salt.
CUT THE usual quickly spreads due to a large number of seeds and an abundance of buds on rhizomes - up to 6000 on one plant. At the same time, it is a very useful food, vitamin and medicinal plant, which is added to various salads in the spring. In shady and planting-free corners of the garden, dandy (especially its variegated varieties) can be used as a groundcover.
How to deal?
In order not to let a useful weed * on the site, use curb tapes dug 20 cm into the ground, and to eradicate it, dig, mow, mulch with mowed grass and sawdust, or simply tighten the area with black wrap or line with old cardboard boxes.
RED BILARY - if this thorny plant is not allowed to inseminate and not allowed into the beds, it will grow only in deaf, abandoned places in the garden. Everyone knows about the medicinal and vitamin properties of nettle. And it enriches the soil with nitrogen, silicon, potassium, trace elements, amino acids and increases the content of humus.
Field OSO - one of the most unpleasant for weeding plants, as it has a spiny stem and a powerful root up to 18 cm long. Pulling it out of the ground is quite difficult, and a broken piece quickly gives several new shoots.
How to deal?
In unused areas of the garden, do not weed out, but regularly mow the weed - this will deplete its root system, and the plant will die.
PURE Creeping - very aggressive, its roots penetrate to a depth of 1 m. One plant can produce 10 seeds, which will germinate in two weeks.
How to deal?
The best way to deal with the invader is to dig the area with a pitchfork to a depth of 30 cm and carefully choose roots. Lawn grass suppresses wheat grass, mulching with sawdust, straw, agroperlite can also help (leave cross-shaped slots for useful crops).
MOKRITSA, or stellate medium, - an annual weed, capable of producing several generations of plants over the summer, so its flowering should not be allowed. Even a small piece of the stem that remains on the ground after weeding quickly takes root. Woodlouse - a plant of acidic soils, it is easiest to get rid of it by bringing ash or lime into the ground. For the sake of justice, we recall that wood lice are also a useful food and medicinal plant.
OVEN ACID - a nice plant with beautiful, reminiscent of clover, cherry-colored leaves and small yellow flowers. But the numerous aboveground shoots of sour acid can clog not only flower beds, but also beds. Therefore, deciding to have this slender woman in the garden, keep in mind: getting rid of it is almost impossible.
DANDELION - if all its seeds sprouted, then in ten generations dandelion glades would need an area fifteen times the surface of the globe! The roots are no less resilient: even a small piece gives birth to a new plant.
Apparently, nature ensured such fertility because of the exceptional value of the plant, the Latin name of which means “calming medicinal”, and the list of ailments for which it is used takes more than one page.
During flowering, bright plant heads attract pollinating insects. It enriches the soil: after the death of the roots of the flower, salts of iron, phosphorus, and calcium remain in it.
Как fight?
To inhibit growth, mow the aerial part before flowering. And so that the good does not disappear, use green stems and leaves in composts, herbal infusions and as mulch.
GALINZOGA small-flowered, nicknamed by the people American, - an annual herbaceous plant native to America. This is a malicious weed, which is almost impossible to get rid of: one plant produces up to 300 thousand seeds.
How to deal?
Curb the invader can only be thorough and regular weeding. Do not let the gallench flower bloom, as the seeds are able to ripen even in the weeded plants.
Reference by topic: Weed control - ways and means
Fighting the weeds in the garden
Our local wars with weeds for the territory are conducted by unequal forces. Because they are many, and we are few, besides, the green invaders are armed with thorns, thorns, sharp as razors, leaves and poisonous juices and are often quite dangerous. Therefore, it is necessary to fight with them not by number, but by skill.
In order not to put their plantings in obviously unfavorable conditions of competition with weeds, and not to kill time on weeding ourselves, we must start from the very beginning - from preparing the land for planting.
Many proponents of organic farming have switched to a non-waste method of tillage. With it, the soil is never dredged (with the exception of the initial treatment), but only loosened with a hoe or flat-bed. With this method, the weed seeds are not carried to the surface, which means they do not grow, and those that the wind brings are not capable of causing serious harm.
So that the land does not trample down and does not settle, make high and fenced beds.
For the framework, boards, bricks, tiles, plastic border tapes are suitable. The latter are conveniently buried in the soil so as not to allow rhizome weeds to get into the bed underground. It is better to fill the paths between the beds with loose mulch - gravel, wood chips, bark, and lay cardboard, film or geotextile down - then the weeds will not have the slightest chance to get out of the row-spacing to the beds.
In the same way, it is possible to protect ground-cover plants from weeds (sedum, young, thyme, subulate phlox and clove) growing in
gravel gardens or on rocky slides. Free the soil from the weeds, cover with foil, newspapers or cardboard and spread a layer of soil that meets the requirements of future tenants. Gaps between the plants fill in the inorganic (gravel, pebbles, granite chips, expanded clay) or organic (chips, bark, cones, shell) mulch.
Mulching - One of the most reliable ways to control weeds. Germinating seeds are deprived of light, without which plants cannot develop. Many materials can act as mulch: compost, humus, peat, vermicompost, hay, straw, paper, mowed and crushed grass, fallen leaves, pine bark, eggshell or nut shells. But you need to choose the mulch wisely.
(How to deal with weed mulch - here)
For example, pine bark and peat very deoxidize the soil, so for conifers and heath plants are ideal, but for those who prefer neutral acidity, they should not be used. In addition, there is a danger of bringing mulch (and organic fertilizer) seeds of weed grass, if we use for this purpose poor-quality (unripe) compost, humus, peat.
Therefore, firstly, never put weed flowers on compost - for many seeds can ripen in cut form. Secondly, if you are not sure about the quality of the substrate, you can check it: in the spring, pour compost heap or humus water and cover with plastic wrap, if after a few days everything is covered with friendly shoots, it means it is clogged up. In this case, it is necessary to allow the substrate to ripen, accelerating the process by processing with EM preparations. Tip: in order not to bring weeds, mulching the aisles with mowed or weathered grass, use only non-flowering and already dried plants or lay them on beds (only in warm and surely dry weather). Of inorganic materials, use black geotextiles as mulch for garden strawberries. It can also be used for other heat-loving crops (vegetables and flowers), because in addition to suppressing weeds, the black film also warms the earth.
If preventive measures do not help, call for help herbicides - chemicals designed to combat aggressive weeds, which are selective and broad-spectrum. One of the most popular is called "roundup", which is translated from English as "round defense".
There are many others, differing in name, but created on the basis of the same substance - glyphosate. Manufacturers claim that the latest drugs do not have a harmful effect on the environment, on insects and fish in water bodies and do not accumulate in the soil. How much you can trust these statements, everyone decides for himself.
Important: when applying herbicides not even on beds, but pointwise on lawns, flower beds and paths, you must always remember that this is still a strong toxic substance, and act strictly according to the instructions, be sure to observe all safety precautions. Tip: to cope with weeds climbing from crevices on paths and paved areas, you can also use boiling water or a strong solution of salt and vinegar.
Do not want to fight chemical weapons with weeds, but you need to clean the grass of a fairly large area (for example, row spacing or mastering a new site)?
Use bacteriological, or rather, EM drugs. To do this, weeds must be cut with a sharp chopper or a plane cutter, and then water the area with a strongly diluted solution (1: 100) of an EM preparation (for example, Baikal). As a result, the root system hidden in the soil is attacked by microorganisms and quickly processed. Important: it is best to carry out such treatment in the fall, that is, in advance so as not to jeopardize the crops.
See also: Weed plants and the fight against them (part 2)
Weeds in the garden - harm or benefit
Fighting another uninvited guest, do not forget that the weed is also a plant, it’s just that he was not lucky to grow where he was out of place.
And in the field, on the lawn and even in the garden, in a place specially designated for them, these are useful, often medicinal, herbs that provide shelter and food for birds, small animals and numerous insects. And they contribute to improving the composition and structure of the soil, useful to the gardener for making composts, infusions and decoctions, mulching.
Many herbaceous plants purify the air and fill it with aromas, attracted to the garden of pollinators.
Finally, they are simply beautiful. Therefore, even in the smallest garden, it is worthwhile to devote a place to wild herbs. Species flower beds and “wild” corners of the garden combined with vintage accessories are a fashionable trend in modern landscape design.
Beautiful weed protection
Reduce the number of weeds will help mixed planting (joint growing in one vegetable garden, berries and grass), where the plants-seals (or neighbors, as they are called) act as live mulch.
If you want to restrain the growth of weeds in flower beds - use compacted plantings without empty spaces. If perennials are not sufficiently grown, plant spring bulbs and annuals between them. Important: annuals are more convenient to plant with ready-made seedlings, and onions in the container (again, less trouble with weeding). Container planting will also limit the runaway of cultural aggressors (cereals, sedge, mint, wormwood).
© Author: O. Uvarova
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to deal with a raspberry fly
- Late blight - the main thing is not treatment and prevention
- Onions: the most common diseases - name and description
- Processing shrubs with boiling water - methods and my feedback
- Spots on tomatoes - cladosporium and late blight: how to distinguish and cure
- We get rid of pests without chemicals - folk remedies
- Aphids on roses - how to get rid of?
- Fighting pests in the new garden season - drugs and measures
- Biological products for flower seedlings - my tips and reviews
- How to get rid of phytophthora - my tips and ways
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Useful wheatgrass
I knew for a long time that this "friend of the truck-gardener" only hindered vegetables in the garden, but for people it is useful. 6 early summer make of his grass drink. But by autumn the grass is tough and does not fit into processing. Then I collect rhizomes and treat them with aching joints. You can rinse the roots thoroughly, pour boiling water and after a half a day start drinking a little. And you can peel the cleaned roots 20 minutes, pour into the tub and lie down in it. Both it is better to do courses.
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Weed sow throbs with health and people willingly transmit their health. Who does not know this, that nerves do not have enough with him to fight in the garden. And who knows, he makes this infusion: 1 art. spoon leaves on 1 a glass of hot boiling water, leave the mixture in a thermos for the night, take at 1 st. spoon for 20 minutes before eating.
Nerves calm down, the head does not hurt, immunity gets stronger, colds recede. (I know that some do not tolerate bitter bitterness, in this case, first you need to hold the leaves of the osseous in salt water.) You can drink this infusion and rinse it with your mouth so that the gums do not bleed.
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Weed control is one of the most troublesome activities in the garden. And well, if they only grew on beds, these ubiquitous aggressors also strive to fill the paths!
We found a simple solution to this problem. On the path between the beds of the stele the old linoleum (after repair) with the wrong side up. Under it and the weeds do not grow, and walking on such a coating is pleasant. In the autumn linoleum is cleaned and rolled up by rolls, we put it in a greenhouse. We use such tracks for several years: conveniently and effectively!
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I want in the near future for the experiment to sprinkle some patch of wheat or oatmeal. I heard, thanks to the gluten contained in it, it prevents the emergence of seeds of weeds! Zinaida V., Kiev
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Gluten is a common complex protein found in barley, rye, and wheat. It does not affect the weeds. The point here, most likely, is that the croup decays for a long time and plays the role of an ordinary mulch that prevents the entry of light and moisture to the soil and thereby really inhibits the growth of weeds. This effect is similar to the use of sawdust, but if, say, a heavy rain passes, the sawdust remains in place, and the groats begin to dissolve, and then the effect will decrease. For a proper result on 1 sq. M. Of soil, you need so much cereal to cover the land completely, i.e. minimum 1-2 kg.
Irina Gurieva
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As we have a large plot (13 acres), it is impossible to weed everything by hand.
Therefore, the land in the aisles and even the rows between the vegetables (beetroot, late cabbage) before the beginning of fruiting times 2-3 is treated with contact herbicides of selective action - Lontrelom, Sultan (according to the instructions!). They even help from soybean and dandelion. The main thing is to spray in clear, windless weather after the rain or at least slightly shed the area of the watering can before it penetrates into the green, rather than the withered weed.
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Two years ago, along with a hosta bush, a hogweed came to my garden. Besides the fact that he is very large and aggressive, he also “burns” to everything else - such a guest is useless in the garden. I tried to eradicate it with the help of various chemicals, and even used it specially designed to fight this plant. Nothing helped.
I decided to read different literature and came across one interesting article, in which the author talked just about the fight against cow-weevil. It is necessary only a few times a season to cut off his "head", not giving the opportunity to blossom.
Irina Fedorova, Moscow
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About 10 years ago, in my front garden, it is not known where this monster came from - meter-sized leaves, higher than the roof of the house (3,5 m).
The plant threw out a huge umbrella, similar to dill. Passers-by stared, sister, a lover of all sorts of wonders, ran around with a camera. Soon, good people suggested that it was cow-borshevik, even if it was not borsch from it, and that he could survive all around. About the poisonous properties of cow-bream, nothing was said.
This prospect did not suit me. When the seeds in the umbrella were almost ripe, I, after admiring the miracle giant for the last time, took the kitchen knife and cut off the stem with bare hands about half a meter above the ground. The circumcised umbrella carried to the fire, and the ampoule of the undiluted herbicide was poured into the resulting large hollow tube of the stem. That's all!
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I cover with a film in the early spring, but not so much for warming the soil, but for weeds: in the warmth they quickly germinate, they are weeded (they are pulled out of the wet earth well) and then sow the seeds.
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I'll tell you on the example of my experience.
I got a plot a few years ago, on it the forest raspberry grew thickly (at least a whole hundred weighed). It seems to be good that the dacha already has a delicious and fragrant berry, and I did not lift a finger for this. But in fact, the fruits are hanging, and they can not be reached, because all branches of bushes are densely intertwined with bindweed. And that's what I did. In autumn she dug 20 raspberry bushes, washed the roots from the ground so that they could see better the white filaments of bindweed, and then easily chose everything.
And the raspberries were transplanted to another, clean place. The remaining bushes were cut to the ground and all the former raspberries were thrown with a continuous layer of chicken manure (well, near the poultry farm), and peat laid on top of it. So everything remained for the winter. In spring, raspberries no longer rose.
Somewhere a dandelion began to break through, a quinoa appeared - I all blurted out. In the beginning of summer, a weak bindweed began to hatch, then it began to gain strength, and by August it had already covered with solid green carpet the land of the former raspberry.
But I already knew what to do by then. Here is my secret. At the end of summer, the bindweed begins to store up its reserves for the winter, and its roots actively absorb nutrients. And here it is necessary to feed him with a herbicide together with them! Of course, the use of such a serious chemistry, as they say, is not good, but two things have to do with this. The first is the uncompromising and lifeless nature of the bindweed.
In the end, what's more dear to you: free from a site that ruins all living weeds or a principled position in the matter of ecology?
The second is the short-term nature of the use of the herbicide: only once (a bindweed during preparation for wintering will be enough). But after a week, the tops of the bindweed begin to turn yellow, and then the whole plant dries forever.
Here one condition: the weed should be given complete freedom of growth of the green mass, from the shoot to the processing itself.
I for this purpose on other ridges about shoots stuck in meter sticks that convolvulus curled upwards. And she took care of him, took care. And then in August she fed herbicide. And completely got rid of the unwanted neighbor.
Nadezhda Ivanovna
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How to take out horsetail
I want to answer the reader who asked about this invader. The horsetail got its name not from the word "tail", but from the word "grab", which suits him best.
Weed prefers acidic soil. Make sure that this is so: its neighbors will be clover, coltsfoot, plantain, mint - they are also lovers of sour. All that’s left is small: any alkali - slaked lime and dolomite flour, which should be added only in the fall, is suitable, since plants after taking such a medicine do not absorb phosphorus well, and by spring the chemical processes in the soil will come to equilibrium.
Ash is also helping. The horsetail does not like horsetail, white mustard, rapeseed, winter rye.
Olga KOVALEVA
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We, in Russia, quinoa weed, but in the countries of Western Europe and North America it has long been grown as a healthy, tasty, nutritious salad plant. This refers to a cultivated form - garden quinoa, or vegetable.
Quinoa contains a lot of protein and plant fiber, vitamins and minerals. For centuries, zealous, prosperous peasants added quinoa to bread. And quinoa is a well-known medicinal plant.
In our country there are about 20 species of swans, and many of them have healing powers. Constipation, hemorrhoids, throat diseases
and lungs - all this and much more can be cured with the help of a quinoa.
It is best to eat quinoa in salads - chopped, slightly lettuce and mixed with any ingredients (onions, eggs, nettles, red beets, cucumbers, tomatoes).
Compress of steamed leaves will help with joint pain (you need to put the leaves on a sore spot, then wrap it well and leave a compress for the night). Decoction of the stems and leaves (1 st.l for a glass of boiling water, to drink 3 once a day for a third of the glass) will heal with stomatitis, thrush. Juice will relieve constipation and worms.
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At the dachas one of the most malicious weeds is wheat grass. You won’t be aware of it by the weeds - even a tiny piece of rhizome left in the ground can give life to a new plant that will instantly capture nearby territory.
In one of the comments, I shared the experience of weed suppression by rye crops. This helps, but does not lead to a final victory. Not so long ago I discovered that the only thing that is really afraid of wheat grass is the well-known dahlia flower.
It is enough to plant these plants where the wheatgrass is raging, and it will die. If you do not achieve the desired result in one season, plant dahlias for the next year. And the grass will disappear forever!
You can plant flowers along the fence, and then the uninvited guest will not get to you from the neighbors.
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Star, as they call it, if it appeared on the site, then hold on! But removing the lice from the beds will be much easier if you perceive the process as harvesting. After all, it is not only a weed, but also a most valuable medicinal plant.
Tear out the lobster must necessarily with the root, grabbing more firmly at the very ground. After this, it is good to dry the plant in a dry place, fold it in tissue bags and use as needed.
In folk medicine, wood lice are used to treat asthma, hemorrhoids, diarrhea, and eye diseases. Herbal baths are very good for skin diseases. Everything is very simple here. Finely chopped greens of woodlice are steamed with boiling water and insist 28 minutes. (cover is not recommended!). Norm - 1 tbsp. l in a glass of boiling water. For the bath, 5 glasses of infusion are enough. Too long to take a bath should not be enough 15 minutes.
The grass left after steaming is recommended to be used for compresses in cases of joint and muscular apparatus diseases, cracks and traumas on the heels.
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On my site quinoa stubbornly breaks through. I struggled with this weed all summer - carefully weeded and sent it to a compost heap. Then she accidentally found out that quinoa, it turns out, is a useful plant for beauty. From ancient times, Slavic beauties used this herb, making infusions for skin rejuvenation. Now, when I weed a quinoa, I don’t throw away its leaves - I dry it for the winter. With dried grass, as I found out, the effect is more noticeable.
For a mask (for any skin type) 1 tsp. dry leaves of quinoa need to pour 1 / 3 a glass of boiling water. Hold the lid for half an hour. Add in infusion of 3-4 art. l. of fat milk, moisten the resulting mixture with a napkin and apply on face for 20 min. After that, wash with warm water. If it is more convenient to use a thick mask, add sour cream and oatmeal to the infusion. With these ingredients, the mask will become even more nutritious and perfectly suited for dry skin.
The most interesting thing is that the decorative quinoa has no useful properties. So look for a real fierce weed!
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Most summer residents, instead of struggling with the grasshopper, only help him grow more and more
Plots where this weed reigns, they start digging with a shovel. A pyrea only this and you need-truncated roots grow well, and its nests become only more powerful.
On the advice of my grandmother, I armed myself with pitchforks and pulled out the roots of wheat grass. With the help of the pitchfork, he gradually cleared the area from the realm of the malignant weed, and dried his rhizomes and sent them to the compost pile.
I should note that it is necessary to dig a grasshopper before blooming! If he has time to bloom and there will be seeds, it will be necessary to struggle with it for a very long time.
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We often meet a powerful plant - hogweed. Those who have already tried to tear it down or cut it down know that it is extremely dangerous. Juice, getting on the skin, makes it especially sensitive to the effects of sunlight, as a result, burns remain on it and blisters form. I advise you to bypass this plant, but if juice has got in, immediately cover this place with clothing, run home and wash it well with soap twice. Try not to appear in the sun. Immediately apply an anti-burn agent to the wound.
Igor
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I have 18 years of seniority. Worked with the land from scratch. Today I can share my experience. For example, what to do with weeds that are already with seeds, or whose roots do not rot, are not suitable for composting (horsetail, dandelion, dull, etc.). First they were dried and burned, and an ashes solution fed the garden. A couple of years ago 5 began to fill these weeds with a can or bucket with a lid half and pour boiling water. Arguing: helping infusions of herbs fight people with weakness and ailments - it means that plants will benefit. The next day, I strain the infusion through a colander, dilute it with water (1: 10) and treat me with curative "tea" vegetables and flowers, fruit trees and berry bushes. And so 2-3 times per season. And the used grass is laid out under bushes of raspberries, black and red currants, sometimes I add to compost.
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Tell me, is there any chemical for combating weeds or just weeding? But after all, many weeds have very long roots that can not be removed. From someone I heard that you can kill a weed with soda, if you sprinkle it with a stem and ground it around the stalk, so that soda gets on the roots. Is it so?
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Weeds are a big problem if you do not deal with them regularly. And here it is necessary to understand what specific weeds we are dealing with. This is important because strategies to control different groups of weeds are different. There are annual, cereal or broadleaf weeds. Cereals are various millet, cockerel millet, bristles, and broadleaf - colza, quinoa, shiritsa, purslane. It is easiest to deal with these weeds by regular loosening of the soil from early spring after every rain or watering. This is necessary when the weeds have just sprouted and are, as experts say, in the “white thread” phase.
Chemicals, called herbicides, are not suitable for controlling weeds against these weeds. This is due to their ability to germinate unevenly both during the season and for many years. Once made "stock" of seeds will germinate until 10 years or more.
A large group is represented by perennial weeds, which can also be grasses, for example wheatgrass, or broadleaf, like convolvulus, water pepper, kirkazon, chamomile, sow. Perennial weeds have adapted to multiply not only by seeds, but also vegetatively, that is, pieces of root or stem. When weeding, they get the opportunity not to cut, but increase their numbers. To combat perennial weeds apply other strategies.
You can leave part of the plot under the black steam and regularly remove the germinating weeds. Gradually, the supply of nutrients in the roots and underground shoots is depleted, and the weeds die. On steam areas, the use of herbicides of continuous action, such as Roundup, Glyphos, is possible. Tornado.
Treatment with these drugs should be carried out on a well developed leaf surface through which the drug enters the root and kills the weed. From the treatment to the death of the weeds passes a certain time, which depends on the temperature, the power of the plant and the concentration of the drug.
It is best to carry out the treatment closer to the autumn, when the weed leaves an outflow of substitutes from the leaves to the roots, and not to flowers or new shoots. Among the herbicides there are also selective drugs that are applied strictly on certain cultures for which they are not toxic. Most of these drugs are not recommended for use in household plots because of the difficulty in meeting the established regulations for use and the danger to neighboring cultures. Among the permissible is Lazurite, which can be used on potatoes and tomatoes. Lontrell on strawberries.
There is a large group of anti-smear herbicides, for example Fusilad, Zellec. Herbicides are still poisons, and their use on household plots is in principle undesirable, this is an extreme measure, and the plot is not too large to water them with poisons, which we are already adding in abundance.
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I also have a small plot, I used to dig up the convolvus five times before, but all was unsuccessful. And now I destroyed it all for two years. In the store bought a root eliminator. In early spring, when the land is still black and nothing has been sown in many beds, and the "birch" has already got out and only two leaves on it, I deeply fore it with a root crop with a clod of earth and throw this sprout. And everything, he is already dead, will not give off his descendants.
But if at least 1 mm of the tail remains under the ground, this place will be "birch" all summer long. Therefore, it is necessary to poddevat this device deeply and not to allow the appearance of a third leaflet.
Many gardeners recommend adding salt during watering. Even a little, but over the years salt accumulates in the earth, and this, in my opinion, is harmful. I will get rid of horseradish, burdock, lilac, creeping cherry neighbors from neighbors. I cut the root of burdock in the ground with a shovel, I pour on 1 -2 st. l. salt and cover the ground.
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In June, not only decorative plants actively grow, but also weeds grow, annual weeds grow, grow
perennial from the remains of rhizomes. Do not start this process - start weeding as soon as they begin to appear from the ground. Make sure that dandelion, wood lice, bluegrass, and other species that bloom in June do not bloom, as their seeds will quickly spread throughout the district.
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If the site is heavily clogged with weeds, especially with pine, which you can not cope with in the usual ways, I advise you to do the following.
Since the abundance of weeds creates a dense sod, then there is no point in digging it. It will be more correct to cut the turf into squares with sides about 25 cm, pick up each with pitchfork and, shaking off the ground, put in a black plastic bag for garbage, best of 60 L and more. But the bag should be filled in the place where it will stand for at least a year.
The area from where the turf was removed, it is necessary to dig, selecting the remaining roots of weed plants. Practice shows that there will not be very many of them. They should also be put in a bag.
When this container is full, it must be carefully sealed. After all, the roots of plants lose their viability and begin to rot only in the absence of air and light. The best option is to shift the edges of the bag several times and seal with tape. If you do not fill the bag to the brim, then you can simply tie it.
After about a year you will get a ripe mature compost, and all the roots will completely rot.
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Overcame the moccasin: the site and dig, and carefully weed this weed from the root, but she does not care. Who will tell you what to do?
Alena Smirnova, Soligorsk
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To dig a site with a moat - it is to sow it for another twenty years. Therefore, I give it a chance to ascend and immediately I mow it with a trimmer under the root, and not letting tie the seeds.
If there is no seed, the mackerel will stop pestering you, though, until the first digging.
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Dangerous "food of the gods"
Some strange plant appeared in my garden. In general, it is quite pretty, with delicate green leaves, but then it turned out that the guest was still insolent. Very quickly began to capture more and more territory. Last year I completely fulfilled it, but this year again I noticed it in one place. My neighbor told me that it was ragweed, and it must be destroyed "in the bud." What is the best way to deal with this weed?
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In our holiday village, a whole war broke out with a weed with the beautiful name "Ambrosia" (in mythology - "food of the gods"). We plowed the most affected areas with the whole world and planted alfalfa to suppress ragweed. Where weed was noticed in insignificant quantities, they necessarily pulled it out with the root. Where it was difficult to manually weed out, mowed it in several steps, and before the formation of seeds, during the period of budding. Ambrosia is such that even immature seeds can germinate. I can say that all these measures gave a good result: in some places ragweed is still breaking through, but now there is no global problem in our village.
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Many gardeners do not even suspect what tasty and useful weeds they ruthlessly try to bring out.
Here, let's say, a mocrica (star) and a waterbranded gardener. Regular use of them contributes to the prolongation of youth, strengthening the nervous and cardiovascular systems, increasing skin elasticity, normalizing blood pressure.
Dandelion and plantain stimulate appetite, improve the work of the gastrointestinal tract, have choleretic and anti-inflammatory effect.
Nettle on its nutritional value is close to leguminous herbs, it is a source of calcium for the body. Contains powerful antioxidants, improves blood quality, prevents the appearance of gray hair.
Yarutka is so rich in vitamin C that before it was used to prevent scurvy. It has a hemostatic and diuretic effect, strengthens the male potency.
During the war, many people died of starvation through death. In Europe, and today it is considered a popular green salad. It's called white spinach. European people eat and burdock leaves.
Motherwort helps with insomnia, soothes. All these herbs are a storehouse of vitamins and minerals, strengthen immunity. I like to add them fresh in salads, I make sandwiches with them, put them in soups, prepare pastas, cocktails, decoctions from them. I'm sure, with my health and longevity (and I'm already 85 years old), I owe much to weeds!
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In the country I do not practice weeding. Instead, I treat the plot from weeds using fire.
Later in the autumn, after harvesting, I dig around the perimeter of the garden so that the flame does not spread to the fence, and I set fire to all the vegetation remaining in the garden. It burns together with the seeds that have fallen. Ash from it serves as fertilizer.
In early spring, it is not difficult to destroy the shoots of weeds soldering
lamp, burning them with a gliding flames. So it is possible to process even those beds where they are sown, but green and carrots have not yet risen. Only the flame of the lamp must be moved very quickly, without stopping in place, so as not to damage the seeds in the ground.
And, of course, you must be careful with open fire - it can become a source of fire.
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Stranded from the beds of grass, I turn into a fertilizer, a nutrient composition close to compost. The fertilizer is made easy. A barrel (200 L) is installed in the sun, stuffed with vegetation from the garden and filled with water. Add a couple of shovels to the manure or 2 art. l. urea. Cover the container with a lid and leave it for 2-3 weeks. Than in the street it is warmer, the fermentation goes faster. Then drain the liquid, dilute it with water (1: 2) and apply for garden planting after watering for 0,5-1 l per each bush. And I use the herbal mass from the barrel as mulch.
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sometimes you have to go through many failures. I believe that negative experiences should also be shared, so that others learn from our mistakes.
Several years ago I purchased a plant called miscanthus, or fan. The advertisement said that this is a perennial plant that does not require special care, and that by the autumn it forms silver whisks that will adorn any winter bouquet.
Indeed, the fan has very elegant, beautiful panicles, which are in the bouquet are not one year. But the advertiser did not mention that this plant has a very strongly branching and creeping rhizome. This plant, in my opinion, is more dangerous than wheat grass. A rather thick rhizome lies deep and branched briskly. Planting miscanthus must be limited to any kind of screen. But I did not know this, and soon a newcomer in the garden became a natural disaster for me. He quickly took possession of the whole flower bed with lilies, and I noticed with horror that the fan began to make its way to the neighbors.
From this experience, I concluded: before you buy an unfamiliar plant, you need to study its biological features in detail, and only then to plant it on your site.
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How to simultaneously warm the soil after the winter, feed it with wood ash, and also get rid of pests and weeds? Do you think it's impossible? Is quite real!
In the early spring, I traditionally spend in the garden pruning and delete all the sick, weak and broken branches. All this I spread in the garden in a heap and set fire to it. The fire warms the earth and destroys the seeds and surface roots of the weeds. In addition, with such a fire treatment, spores of many dangerous diseases and harmful insects living in the upper layer of the soil die. True, along with pests, useful microorganisms are also destroyed. Therefore, it is not necessary to get carried away with this method of soil disinfection.
Interestingly, turnip is a great growth in "ashes". From the place where the fire was burning, after its fading, I shovel away some of the ashes. I bring in a little bit of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, dig over, form a garden. At the end of April, under the shelter, I plant my turnips, I sprinkle a bed of ash laid on top. It will save cruciferous shoots from fleas and give plants additional nutrition.
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This is wood lice - how not to be surprised?
In the shade of the barn in the country site every year, the mocrina is rampant. In principle, it does not bother anyone, but I heard that it can be used as a feeding. How is this feeding prepared and for which crops is suitable?
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A woodworm, or an asterisk, is medium or weathered grass (including (lat. Stellaria media L.) - a very amphibian) and it is poured to the top with water, a climbing plant, and not just Then a thick weed is tightly covered with a lid, as many people think or with plastic wrap . Firstly, all the aboveground with 2-3 small holes and part of the lice are edible. From it they leave to roam for 1-1,5 weeks, they cook summer borschs, salads, mashed potatoes, The color of the finished green fertilizer is a filling for pies. Secondly, it is cloudy-green-yellow, with over-applied for medicinal purposes, the groin of fermented grass. For Thirdly, from the wood lice do otkormki infusion dilute personal green fertilizer. For water (1:10) and watering the beds, this is added to the tank (barrel, bucket, etc.). If desired, a beveled handful of nitrogen fertilizer is added to the tank at 3/4 volume.
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About five years ago I bought 10 acres, now there is virgin soil, grass above human height, the earth is loam. This year I’ll start to develop the site. They say that if you plant corn, it will clog the grass, and next year it will not grow actively. This is true? What do you advise to plant on the virgin lands to ennoble the earth?
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I do not advise planting corn; in the Moscow Region it will not grow enough to clog weeds. To refine the loam, I propose the following technique. In the spring, mow the grass, plow the plot, select all the large rhizomes, and, without letting the earth dry, plant potatoes on it - into the holes every 70 cm. During the summer, spud twice, no more. Weeds that appear in the aisles are knocked down by a rake with the back side, and prevent them from growing.
After harvesting potatoes on the site, sow winter rye, wheat - any crops. The next year, in May, mow the rye (by that time it will grow by 20-30 cm), and dig the site. Now you can make beds, plant vegetables, sow carrots, dill, and so on. And after a year you can plant shrubs.
Thanks to the potato culture of potatoes, the amount of weeds in a year or two will decrease by 2-3 times. Rye, wheat and other siderates remain in the soil after digging and become food for microorganisms, which, in turn, feed plants, improve the soil, make it more friable. It accumulates humus.
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Suppress Convolvulus
Field bindweed is a well-known weed that is found in almost every garden and orchard.
In the spring, as soon as the snow and the sun warms, the convolvulus begins to grow and cover the soil, preventing the germination of cultivated plants. Gradually he braids the neighbors so much that they can die. Therefore, it is important to start combating the bindweed as early as possible.
Timely weeding is of great importance, however, it is impossible to completely destroy the weed in this way. Its root system penetrates to a depth of 6 m, and it is not afraid of either frost or drought. Therefore, those areas where the bindweed grows especially strongly, in autumn and early spring, it is necessary to dig up the pitchfork as deep as possible and carefully select all the roots. When digging, you should not use a shovel - excising the root, you will thereby spread the plant.
Still I want to advise the effective method. Fly with the overgrown weed cover with a black film and press down in several places with stones. In the absence of sunlight, the weed can not develop. So that the land does not stand idly by, I make a cross-shaped cut in the film and sow pumpkins. Pumpkin whips grow beautifully!
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How to cheat weeds
I think that most gardeners faced the fact that carrots, beets, beans, peas and other planted crops had not yet risen, and the weeds in the beds had already dispersed violent color. If you try to weed them during this period, you can severely damage the seedlings, and then nothing really will grow. But I know how to trick the weeds.
As soon as the snow comes down, until the land is dry, I cover all my beds with a plastic wrap. The bright spring sun warms up from above, the moisture evaporates from below, the earth warms up instantly, an excellent microclimate is created for the rapid growth of all weeds. After a week or two, the film needs to be removed, and all the weeds that have emerged are weeded out. After such treatment, the beds are clean for about a month, and this time is enough to ensure that the seedlings have quietly ascended, without wasting their energy to control the weeds.
In addition, thanks to the film, the soil on the beds is warming up more quickly, and during weeding I at the same time loosen the ground before sowing, so that the crop plants rise and develop quickly.