Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks

Contents ✓

✓ Gracefulness and beauty of gladiolus
✓ Decorative - 30 years!
✓ SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF KLUBNYUKOVITS
✓ We stimulate the growth of the gladiolus. 5 ways.
✓ GLADIOLUSES: PLANTING AND CARE
✓ SEASONAL SUPPLEMENTS OF THE GLADIOS
✓ Autumn work
✓ STORAGE OF THE GLADIOS
✓ DISEASES AND PESTS OF GLADIOLUSES
✓ USEFUL PROPERTIES OF THE GLADIOS
✓ Gladiolus: planting and care - share experiences
✓ Juvenile gladiolus bulb from babies - for renovation
✓ Bulbs gladioli - preparation and landing - video (good)

How to Grow a Gladiolus - Tips and Secrets for Reproduction and Care

Gracefulness and beauty of gladiolus

Among the huge variety of garden herbaceous perennials, there is hardly a more ceremonial-ceremonial and simultaneously exquisite flowering plant. Particularly interesting are its latest varieties, capable of forming in the ear to 30-ti buds, and simultaneously open up to 15 flowers!

Of course, there is no person who does not know the gladiolus - this plant is one of the five most common garden flowers in the world. However, not all can say with certainty that the cultivation was 100% successful. After all, his agrotechnics has its own peculiarities and secrets, having learned that you, dear readers, will undoubtedly love this flower and will cope with its cultivation. After reading the article, you will solve all your problems and get answers to everything, even the most difficult questions.

If the rose in the flower hierarchy is a queen, then the gladiolus is undoubtedly the king. Moreover, this "person" is not an easy character. Florists generally recognized that the agglomeration of gladiolus is one of the most complex among bulbous and herbaceous plants. And its adherence is very important for achieving the desired result. However, in this case there are also peculiarities in relation to soil, humidity, temperature regime and other factors. But you need to start with the spring preparation of planting material, although even earlier, with the selection of the site and filling the soil. And in all these works there are no trifles!

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Decorative - 30 years!

Gladiolus (Gladiolus) is a perennial herbaceous tuberous plant of the Kasatikov family. Homeland - the tropics and subtropics of Africa, the Mediterranean, Central Asia, Western Siberia. It is known about 250 species and 5000 varieties. The life of a gladiolus of a particular variety does not exceed 30 years. After all, a variety is the offspring of one plant that is propagated vegetatively, which contributes to the accumulation of mutations and leads to degeneration. As an exception, there are long-lived varieties, for example, Oscar (1958) or Charm (early 20-th century).

SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF KLUBNYUKOVITS

From these two factors, the good flowering of the gladiolus depends largely on the varietal qualities, as well as the growth of offspring and the successful wintering of the corms.

We choose the planting material of gladiolus

The best corms - with a diameter of the bottom 3-7 mm, rounded, not wrinkled, shiny, clean, with one powerful central sprout. Bulbs with such signs - juvenile, grown from babies, blossom well in the future and give a decent offspring. After all, the peculiarity of the gladiolus is that it is necessary to grow planting material from a baby, obtained from a juvenile bulb, every year.

Do not take large corms, but also with a concave bottom diameter more than 1 cm. Such have already bloomed, sometimes more than once. They do not build up powerful inflorescences and a baby of good quality.

Do not buy with three or more sprouts. Often this is a sign of an incurable disease - herbaceousness, in which flowers are deformed, fainter and greener.

If on a bulb reddish stains, sometimes deeply eaten or sprinkled with a purple powder, it is damaged by thrips. In case of severe infection, it is better to burn it. If the grade is valuable, you can treat 4% solution "Arrivo" or other insecticide according to the instructions.

Symptoms of bacterial scab disease are round brown shiny spots. Single can be cut to a healthy tissue and cut the slices with green.

Plants with signs of Fusarium (brown spots on the bottom) -unichtoze.

Early troubles

Many flower growers already in February clear corms from covering scales (not baby!), Well washed under a stream of warm water, dried, culled patients. And, wrapped in newspapers, again put in storage. At this time, the planting material can be left at room temperature (only in a dry place, with increased humidity, they will begin to wake up). A healthy bulb and baby such a regime is useful. They earlier bloom (for about two weeks) and give more offspring.

In April, having deployed, it is better to shift them into low boxes on shelves, but not under direct sunlight, and there to hold before landing. Thus, by May corms will be vernalized and develop qualitative small green shoots, and in addition, they have a good swelling of the root tubercles.

Svetlana KOFANOVA, Samara

We reproduce faster

If it is necessary to propagate this particular variety, without waiting for the offspring of the children, Sergei Grishchenko, head of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. Pushkin, recommends that the corms get out of the vault in early April (but not later than two weeks before planting). When cleaning from the covering scales, it is necessary to remove the central bud. As a result, two "spare" will go into growth. Since the gladiolus every

it forms a new replacement bulb, two are formed on their two shoots. Of course, the blossoming quality of the "double" corms will be much more modest than from the central shoot, - the number of flowers and their size will be less. But we have to sacrifice something. Bulbs by the autumn are formed too smaller than the mother, but younger.

Valentina BONDAR

Disinfection is important!

If there are signs of disease on corms, before planting, they must be treated with the drug "Maxim" (according to instructions).

Healthy planting material for disease prevention, treat with a suspension of the preparation "Fundazim" (50-60 g / 10 L of water, mix, soak for 1-2 hours).

Soaking corms in a solution of potassium permanganate does not give a 100% result. For the control of pests in recent years I successfully use preparations based on imidaclorpride - "Prestige", "Masterpiece", "Matador" (they are usually used on potatoes). "Aktara" is also effective. The use of these preparations protects plants from practically all pests: wireworm, bear, and thrips (effective in processing both planting material and ground part). But the term of their action is limited to the first half of the vegetation of plants, so in the second half I process the "Actelicom", "Carbophos" or "Mospilan" already on the leaves.

Igor GRECHANIY, scientist agronomist

By the way

Planting material purchased in February-March, before storage of heat, is better stored in the refrigerator (cellar).

Soil Cleaner

For decontaminating the soil on the site chosen for planting gladiolus I use celandine.

In autumn or early spring, I dig in the shredded greenery, and if not yet grown, I brew 200 g of dried grass in a bucket of water. Day I insist, filter, then dilute with water (1: 2) and spill the soil in the garden. Then dig over, and a week later I spill a solution of potassium permanganate.

Nadezhda, d. Popenevo, the Kirov region.

Division of corms

In spring (for 7-10 days before disembarkation) corms divide into two, rarely - into three parts (according to the number of kidneys). I cut so that necessarily on each delenke there was a part of the bottom of the bulb with the nested roots, otherwise the plant will not get accustomed. Cut the slices with charcoal powder or greens and then dry it.

Planted in late April and covered with a film. I do not dig deeply to grow faster, and then gradually pour the soil in the summer. The first flowers I have appeared much earlier than it usually happens. As a result, the corms are blooming not worse than the whole planting material, and by the autumn they are building full-scale replacing bulbs. Friends do not risk doing so, no matter how they tried to convince them. And I've been replenishing the number of bulbs in this way for many years (because storage losses are inevitable).

Nadezhda LEBEDEVA, town of Glazov, Udmurtia

If the inflorescence is not like the picture

Gladiolus was carried away not so long ago. Unfortunately, the peduncles grow loose, and not densely "stuffed", as I saw at the exhibition. Are these disadvantages of care or particularity of varieties?

Olga Gribanova

There may be several reasons: poor planting material or improper care. It also leads to looseness of the inflorescences (for example, excess nitrogen in the soil, lack of light). Although the arrangement of flowers and the density of the ear can also depend on the type of inflorescence of a particular variety. They are single-rowed - when the flowers are arranged in a row one above the other; Two-row - the inflorescence consists of two adjoining rows {flowers are paired); next - as two-row, only the flowers of the neighboring row are arranged in checkerboard pattern; spiral; two-sided - flowers bloom from two opposite sides of the inflorescence.

Lyudmila SENKO, biologist, village of Turets-Boyary, Minsk region. Photo by Ludmila KUDRREKO

Preparing the children for planting

Children gladioli before planting must be cleaned of solid scales. And this is a very laborious work. But without them, it seems to be "stony" and loses its germination. Therefore, after cleaning, you need to store it in plastic bags in the refrigerator, but not longer than a week.

When there are so many children, scaling is a problem, - Valentina Surikova from Moscow thinks.

It is better to soak the planting material for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate (0,2%) or baking soda (0,1%). After such a procedure, the scales soften and easily move away.

Lyudmila Kudraiko cleansed before planting the baby soaks in "Novosil", "Zircon" or "Epine". For prevention, it is advisable to additionally treat with the fungicide "Maxim". And when cleaning the babies, one should pay attention to the number of root tubercles (rudiments of the future root system). A large baby with one or two root tubercles will develop very slowly compared to a smaller one, but with a large number of tubercles.

BTW

To separate a low-quality baby from a full-fledged, experts advise to pour it into a container of water - the good will sink to the bottom.

And with too much children, Igor Greceanii from Dimitrovo, Kirovograd region. there are ways to prepare it for planting.

The same "small thing" he spills into one layer on a flat table and rolls with a slight pressure from above with a rolling pin or a bottle (like rolling the dough). The shell cracks, but the tubers are not damaged. Or dips the baby in gauze pouches for 2-3 seconds into boiling water, then immediately - into ice water. After such treatment, it can be sown without cleaning.

Uncleaned tubercles

When disinfecting the children before planting, the concentration of trace element salts in the solution is reduced by 30% (from the recommended for treatment of adult corms). The processing time is reduced by two or three times.

The club buds in the scales peck much later, sprouts appear sometimes only through 2 * 3 months.

With the integrity of the membrane, the baby remains viable for up to three years or more.

When sowing children in the scales effectively use hydrogel. This polymer is harmless and able to retain a lot of water,

but giving it to plants. For processing I prepare a solution: 2-3 st.l. powder pour 3 l water. After swelling (this takes about 20 min.), I immerse the baby in the resulting "kissel".

Then I throw it back on the sieve. The dried baby is a lump which can easily be rubbed up to flowability. When sowing, the seed groove is necessarily spilled with water, and the hydrogel again absorbs a certain volume of water.

Planted in this way, the baby gives friendly shoots even in a drought, because it receives not only the proper moisture supply, but also enough nutrition at the very beginning of growth. In addition, it is somewhat protected from pests (wireworm, bear, scoop). So for one season I manage to get excellent juvenile bulbs with a diameter of at least 3 cm, mostly larger ones grow.

Igor GRECHANIY

Germination

In warmer regions corms are not germinated, as a rule, to get an early cut (grown under film shelters). And in the middle band, I always advise germinating gladioli. To do this, planting material for one or two weeks before landing in the open ground is laid down in a very warm (+ 30 deg.) Room, where the air humidity is not higher than 60%. With increased humidity, the roots begin to grow, which often break off during planting (need to be handled very carefully) and not restored.

Igor GRECHANIY

We stimulate the growth of the gladiolus. 5 ways.

Treatment in a solution of microelements.

Keep in a solution of 10-12 hours. Composition on 10 l of rain (snow) water: manganese - 2-2,5 g; boric acid - 2-3 g; ammonium molybdate - 1 g; copper sulfate - 2-3 g; magnesium sulfate - 2 g; zinc sulphate - 0,5 g. This treatment is especially effective on sandy loam and cultivated marsh soils. Treatment with microelements for a week or two accelerates flowering, the size of flowers increases and their number in the inflorescence, as well as the mass of corms and the number of babies, the immunity of the plant increases.

Warming up. In hot (50 degrees) rain water immersed planting material (while it is partially disinfected). Capacity wraps and wait until cooling, but no more than 36 hours, otherwise corms can "suffocate".

The effectiveness of the treatment is greatly increased if instead of water, warm in malt infusion (for example, barley). To do this, the soaked grain is germinated to be cured, dried, grinded and poured overnight with boiling water (1-1,5 kg / Yule water), in the morning, filter.

Soak in the fly ash extract (2 st.l of ash / l of water, withstand it for a day) or in a solution of copper sulfate (5 g / l of water, stand night).

Use of drugs. It is useful to soak the planting material immediately before planting in solutions of any stimulants, for example, "Heteroauxin" or "Gibberellin" (as instructed).

Igor GRECHANIY

GLADIOLUSES: PLANTING AND CARE

For the cultivation of gladioli it is important to choose a sunny place, as the lack of lighting will affect the flowering and reproduction of the variety. They can be returned to their previous place in the third year. And do not skimp on attention during the summer - water and feed.

Good soil is half the battle

Gladiolus love fertile, well-groomed soil, and it does not matter - it's black earth, light loam or sandy loam. All of them are great, the main thing is that they should be cultivated. However, remember that the organics, even well overgrazed, directly under the planting make it undesirable, since plants can get sick with scab and various rot. Therefore, the site is always ready for the year before planting.

In the spring I bring manure (many like to use a horse with an admixture of sawdust) and humus (it can be replaced with two or three years of compost soil). I dig and sow the seeds of plants that need a lot of humus, for example, dahlias, phlox or vegetables. To improve and fertilize the site, which I plan to plant gladiolus, in September I sow any of the siderates, for example, rye, mustard or rape. And before the onset of persistent frosts I mow down and dig them into the soil.

Valentina Surikova, plant collector, Moscow

Ground preparation replaces fertilizing

If the area is clayey, but nutritious, treat the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, and it will give plants moisture, nutrients, will have good air permeability. When digging, it should be borne in mind that the roots of gladiolus penetrate deep into the soil. In our garden there is a sandy soil, a very dry place. We have to create the humus layer ourselves. Annually we buy two machines of horse manure,

and he lies a year. Then we bring it under the previous culture. And after another year at this place we plant corms of gladioli. Since for decades the soil has been replenished with organic, it is quite rich, so we do not feed the plants during the season.

Mikhail KUZNETSOV, collector and breeder, Moscow

Be careful!

You plant the gladiolus in soil, fertilized with fresh organic matter, or feed it with infusions - wait for the appearance of fusariosis. Its first sign is crescent-shaped leaves.

There were longitudinal strokes on the petals of gladioli - a viral disease. Immediately destroy the plant, so as not to infect the rest.

Lyudmila SENKO

BTW

According to the Moscow breeder Mikhail Kuznetsov, the soil affects the corrugation of the inflorescences: plants of the same varieties grow with more corrugated flowers on wet and more clay soils than on sandy ones.

The secret of large flowers

Knowing it, you can get especially beautiful, exhibition flowers. But you can use this method only sometimes, because there is a health risk to the corms. At the bottom of the landing trench, horse manure is introduced, gladiolus is planted directly on it. Above them, sprinkled with coarse-grained sand and soil.

The results will exceed all your expectations!

Igor GRECHANIY, settlement Dimitrovo, Kirovograd region.

Timing of the gladiolus is determined by yourself

The signal for the beginning of the landing is the heating of the soil at a depth of 10 cm to + 10 deg.

To increase the duration of flowering, you can plant in separate batches at intervals of two weeks. The last planting is carried out from 15 May on 1 June (in the middle band). Then the flowering stretches to the deep autumn, however, the quality of the corms being produced is significantly reduced. When using film shelters, you can plant the gladiolus two weeks earlier. And in combination with different dates of disembarkation, this will allow us to admire their flowering in the middle band for four months.

In connection with changes in climatic conditions, it is better to start landing operations as early as possible. And do not be afraid - the risen gladiolus, even after falling under the late spring frost, then normally develop and blossom. Early planting allows more efficient use of winter moisture reserves, reduces the risk of infection of plants with diseases. The flowering turns out more magnificent, and in inflorescences it is put on three-five flowers more. In addition, the formation of corms and babies, as well as their sizes increase by 20-30 percent.

Change the place!

You can not use the same ridges or places every year in flower beds to grow gladioli. No matter how carefully and carefully the plants are excavated in the autumn, small tuber-babies remain in the soil. They perfectly winter and spring together, which will inevitably lead to clogging and re-sorting of the collection. In addition, various infections accumulate in the soil during the re-planting.

Ivan Khodakov, collector of gladiolus, p. B. Cavendra of the Penza region.

Ways to plant gladiolus

It is advisable to plant more deeply. Then the plants use the moisture of the lower horizons of the soil better: this protects the corms from overheating in the heat and allows you to do without the garter of the peduncles. Especially large corms (1 parsing) should be planted to a depth of 15 cm and even deeper. Smaller - on 10-15 cm, and 3-4-th parsing - on 10-12 see. If in the future it is planned to plant the plants, you can plant a smaller one.

The correct choice of the scheme and density of landing is important. This determines the intensity of photosynthesis, the area of nutrition, and, accordingly, the supply of nutrients, phytosanitary condition. Excessive thickening leads to a decrease in flowers, inflorescences and corms, and complicates the care of plants. For the largest bulbs, the distance between the rows is about 25 cm, and between the plants in the row is 20 see. The rest are planted more densely. On heavy clay soils and chernozems, sand is poured onto the bottom of the landing grooves with a layer of 1-2 cm. This improves their water and air permeability, and when cleaning the corms, they are more clean and healthy. Avoid over-sorting help tags from strips of aluminum cans of beer, beverages. A ballpoint pen presses an inscription in them, and they do not rust.

Reference by topic: Gladiolus - planting, care and treatment of bulbs - advice of the master

Depending on the diameter of the clubThe brooms are divided into three sorts:

1-y: diameter more than 3,2 cm;
2-th: from 2,6 to 3,2 cm;
3-th: from 1,6 to 2,5, see Flower growers-like bodies and sometimes allocate and 4-th parse: from 1,1 to 1,5, see.

The depth of planting is different for them.

Proven method

There is a wonderful way to make even not quite healthy corms bloom. For this, before planting, it is sufficient to treat them with thio-urea (thiourea). Soak for 20 min. in 0,2% solution (you can use 0,25%), that is 20-25 g for 10 L of water.

Igor GRECHANIY

For fans of experiments

In some varieties of gladioli, not one but several floral arrows are formed, as several buds grow at the same time. But such varieties are not very many. And rarely what a florist does not want to see such an effect. You can achieve it by planting the bulb upside down on the bottom or on the barrel. This provokes the germination of sleeping buds, and the plant expels several stems and, consequently, forms the same number of daughter bulbs.

Valentina Surikova, Moscow

Rejuvenation for just a season

You can get a fairly large, beautiful corms from the old one, if you plant it in well-prepared soil and prevent it from flourishing, removing the appeared flower stem. And from not quite healthy - if before planting wrap it in sphagnum moss and then in it and plant it.

Vera CEEJKO

Planting and caring for the baby

Planting it is desirable in river sand, which to a lesser extent contains parasitic microorganisms and helps deliver oxygen to the "awakening" roots.

I make a groove with a depth of 5-6 cm (if the spring is "wet" - 3-4 cm), I fill the sand with a layer about 1 cm at the bottom, I spill it with water in which the manganese, boric acid and copper sulfate are dissolved (1 g / 10l water). Ditch grooves and "Fitosporin" (I prefer it in the form of a paste, the effect of which is enhanced by the elixir of fertility "Gumi").

I turn the paste into a liquid mass, dissolving one part of it in two parts of the water. And then from it I prepare the working solution (1 st.l / 10l water). Combine "Fitosporin" with insecticides ("Actellik", "Fury", "Decis"), which are used to combat thrips and aphids. The baby is planted at a distance of 20-25 cm, in a row - 2-4 cm (depending on the faction) in staggered order if you need to place more. I fall asleep with a layer of sand, gently moisten with water and cover with soil. Mulch for maintenance of friability. While there will be normal shoots (and if there are cold - and longer), plantings are covered with spunbond, which significantly shortens the sprouting season.

Planting material with traces of fungal and bacterial diseases is destroyed. The most valuable varieties can be treated: with a sharp knife, cut the affected parts, and cut the sections with greenery or alcohol. The knife after each corms is disinfected, lowering into alcohol, formalin or manganese.

I begin to feed children at the initial stage of growth. At the beginning of the vegetation I spend foliar top dressing with molybdenum (1 g / 10 L of water). When two real leaves appear, I plant the plantings with a solution of zinc sulfate (2 g / 10 L of water), based on 1 sq. M. m. In the phase of three to four leaves and then during flowering, a microelement of boron (2 g boric acid per 10 l of water per 1 sq. m) is required for the production of large corms. All micronutrients are in the form of foliar dressings.

Ludmila KUDREEKO, collector of gladioli

Water properly!

The heat and drought of plants are difficult, they look oppressed and weak. If watered often and in small doses (for example, in a sandy area), the moisture does not reach the roots, and they begin to expand in the upper layer of the soil. Such specimens look painful, the flowers grow small, lose their brightness, and there is no need to speak about the varietal qualities of gladioli, they are hardly identifiable. When watering the water flow is considered normal - 4-5 buckets at 1 sq.m. Especially it is necessary to monitor the humidity at the beginning of the growing season.

Lyudmila SENKO

This affects slenderness

Last year, the gladiolus in my garden in the middle of summer curved, deformed. I was told that I incorrectly watered the plants. And how to do it by the rules?

Nina Krotova

As during the germination of corms, and during flowering for gladioli, abundant watering is important. During the development of the third or fourth leaf, they form an inflorescence, and it is the lack of moisture at this time can cause distortion and deformation of plants. Usually, watering is stopped after the plants bloom, but in warm, dry weather, exceptions are possible. After watering, you can dig a shovel next to the plant and see if the soil has soaked to the depth of the root-inhabited layer and whether there was enough water. Peduncles can be bent and with excess in the soil of nitrogen. To prevent this from happening, carefully monitor the timing of the application of mineral fertilizers, their composition.

At irrigation adhere to the main rule - it is better less often, but more.

If you consider these factors, gladioli will grow slender.

Elena BEDNOVA, collector of gladiolus, Moscow

Antistress preparations will help

In recent years, the summer is very hot. Despite the good watering, the soil fast dries up, and gladioli suffer greatly ...

Irina Popova

The fact is that the growth of leaves in the heat greatly outstrips the growth of roots. A weak root system can not "feed" a powerful overground part, which leads to weakening of the plant, poor growth of corms and, of course, poor flowering. And in addition, gladioli are not prepared enough for wintering, as a result of corms are poorly stored. It is good to use anti-stress preparations "Ecosil", "Zircon", "HB-1" (spray solutions according to the instructions). They help plants survive an unfavorable period and stimulate the growth of roots.

Need at this time and feeding: zinc sulphate (about June) - 2 g / bucket of water. The solution is enough for 1 sq.m; molybdenum ammonium also contributes to a better development of the root system - 1g / 10l / 10 sq.m. Pour from the watering can on the leaves.

Due to the fact that in recent years a dry and hot summer has been issued, the planting material (similar to the potato) degenerates much faster.

Vera Tseiko, biologist

Is the family large?

Sorts gladiolus are divided into high-yielding - in one season they form up to 150 clubbars, medium-yielding and low-yielding (these give only 10-15 children). Corrugated varieties of gladioli build up very few offspring. To stimulate the increase in the number of babies can, although slightly, removing the emerging flower stem.

That there were no pests

Usually I do not use chemicals in my garden. But I realized that from trips without them I can not get rid of. When and how to process?

Nina Lesichanskaya

The colored peduncles are a signal to the treatment of the ground part against thrips. "Confidor-Maxi" has proved itself well. Varieties differ in terms of flowering, so you need to process differentiated.

After the appearance of the third sheet, plants should be sprayed with any of the fungicides (Topsin-M, Fundazol, Ridomil). Alternating drugs, treat every ten days. This will help gladioli stay healthy.

Mulching of soil

Mulching of gladiolus plantings is very useful. Various materials are used: humus-rash (preferably sifted so as not to carry a bear), chopped straw, hay.

It is better not to mulch with sawdust - when decomposed they take nitrogen out of the soil. And if you still use, add nitrogen fertilizers.

In the phase 3-4 of leaves in the case of mass shoots, mulching by crushed foam is very effective. This material has a high reflective capacity, and this excludes overheating of the soil and reduces the loss of moisture.

Igor GRECHANIY

Accelerated method

Can a large, full-fledged Corm?

Marta Andrievskaya, Grodno

Yes, according to the accelerated method by the fall, I get such bulbs. For this purpose, since March I have kept the baby in the light and warm. Then I put them in bags, pour into each little bit of warm water and leave them in the sun. As soon as the soil thaws on 16-20 cm, sprouted baby planted in the garden, watered with a solution of "Epin" (1 ampoule / 7 L of water) and covered with a film. Sprouts I try to protect from recurrent frosts. Agrotechnics during the season is important to observe, then everything will necessarily happen.

Petr KISELEV, Istra, Moscow Region.

SEASONAL SUPPLEMENTS OF THE GLADIOS

Food for gladioli is very necessary. Particularly need feeding on poor sandy loam and peat soils. After all, in the development of gladioli there are four main stages, and on each plant needs a certain "menu".

Food by the rules

1-th stage - from the output of the first to the formation of the fourth sheet. In it

time there is an intensive growth of the vegetative mass. The first fertilizing is carried out in phase 2-3 sheet with nitrogen fertilizers (25-30 g mocheviny / 10 l of water at 1 sq. M).

2-th stage - the formation of the fifth-sixth leaf, develops a flower spike. Need a second feeding - a full mineral fertilizer with trace elements (50-60 g / 10 L of water). It is made purposefully in the inter-row.

3-th stage - from budding to flowering. The buildup of "mass" at this time slows down, and in the leaves there is an intensive formation of carbohydrates. The third feeding is carried out during the budding with a full mineral fertilizer (15 g urea, 30 g superphosphate, 15 g potassium sulfate / 10 l water). Simultaneously, foliar fertilization is carried out with microfertilizers.

4-th stage - at the beginning of flowering. At the end of the vegetation, carbohydrates are drained from the leaves into the corms - it is growing intensively. The plants need phosphoric-potassium nutrition (30 g superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate dissolve in 10 l of water - at 1 sq. M.).

In the phase of the fourth and seventh leaves in the interval between mineral top dressings I give the organics - mullein infusion (1: 10), horse manure (1: 10) or bird droppings (1: 20).

To avoid burns of roots and leaves, before and after applying the nutrient solution, water thoroughly.

Elena Groshavin, Moscow

Better fractional

Since I am a proponent of fractional fertilization, I feed 8-10 once with aqueous solutions and after a good watering. Fertilizers introduced by dry ones act much worse. The first 4-6 feedings (once in 7-10 days) contain: 20 g of nitrogen, 15 g of potassium and phosphorus per 10 L of water, add also calcium nitrate (5 g) and magnesium sulfate (10 g). And they are needed at the beginning of growth. When there is a shortage of nitrogen, the gladiolus lingers in growth, the peduncles are bent, and the leaves become light green. And with its excess, they live, their immunity decreases, and winter storage becomes a problem.

In the next two feedings, nitrogen, calcium and magnesium are excluded, and phosphorus (in the form of aqueous extract) and potassium is left. This helps plants to form a beautiful strong "ear" and provides a bright color of buds and flowers.

The last two top dressings during flowering of late varieties and after it contain only potassium sulfate and are intended to accelerate maturation.

Fertilizers containing chlorine, I do not use. Good for fertilizing once personal humates, they are best given in the first half of the vegetation. They love gladioli and green fertilizer, especially the infusion of nettle. You can use wood ash, it contains the whole complex of trace elements.

But the whole season I feed the baby with full mineral fertilizer once every two weeks, because it does not have a sufficient supply of nutrients. But it is important not to overdo it.

Excellent response gladioli and on foliar top dressing "Epinom", "Zircon", "Cytovit".

Valentina Surikova, Moscow

Green top dressing

Gladiolus, grown from small bulbs and tubers, during the growing season, water the green infusion (1 l / 10 L of water). For its preparation I use chamfered grass, nettle, horse sorrel, horsetail. In the capacity of 100 l lay plant mass on a third of the volume and fill it with water. I add a glass of Baikal M-1, cover it and let it brew for two or three weeks. In a single season, bulbs grow in diameter from 1-3 cm and more, and the next year they give a full inflorescence.

Tatiana Tsygankova, Minsk.

On nutrient soil

If horse manure was introduced in the fertile area during planting, and in the fall under digging - a sufficient amount of humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, fertilizing during the season is in principle optional, but their introduction is possible. For example, it is not bad to give phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the budding phase and after flowering. You can use nitroammophoska or wood ash with phosphorus fertilizers. This will improve both the flowering and feeding regimen of growing corms, allowing them to better prepare for the rest period.

For foliar dressing use solutions of complex microfertilizers (as in the processing of planting material). It is good to use trace elements in the chelate form (complexants). In addition, it is useful to treat the ground portion with gu-mat or humisol. And at least two times in the phase of "sweeping out" the flowering and after flowering.

Igor GRECHANIY

The secret "elixir"

In a plastic 15-liter container pour 10 l of warm water, put 3 l candied jam (or 1 kg of sugar) and stir. I pour in 100 ml of the preparation "Baikal EM-1". For better fermentation I add baker's yeast.

Mix well, put in a film greenhouse for fermentation (8-10 days). The capacity for the night must be placed on a stool so that the solution does not cool down strongly. A bucket of mullein or half a bucket of chicken manure (better, of course, horse manure) is planted in an 50-liter barrel of water and I insist for 24 hours. I filter into an 200-liter barrel, add a solution with fermented "Baikal EM-1", add water to the full volume, close the lid and insist another two to three days.

The resulting infusion of watering beds from the watering can directly on the plants (10 l / sq. M). Over the past season, I spent two such feeding, my plantings pleased with the size of corms and health. It should be noted that combined organomineral top dressings are more effective for plants. Therefore, I add calcium nitrate (20-25 g / 10 L) to the resulting infusion, which promotes the growth of the root system and the bulbs bulb for winter.

Lyudmila KUDREEKO, Kolyadichi settlement. Photos of Valentina BONDAR

In free time from care

If you have a collection of gladiolus, then in the garden, and when digging and storing corms and babies need labels. Durable and high-quality they are obtained from plastic folders. For this, I cut them into strips 2 cm wide and 6 in length. On one side I write the name of the grade, and on the other side I write the grade number from the catalog. Labels on both sides are sealed with adhesive tape of suitable width, then I make holes with a hole punch. Mount them to the stems or bags (boxes) easily with a thin wire.

Vera CEEJKO

Cut gladioli correctly!

One of the main mistakes of gladiolus lovers is to give blossom to the entire ear. It is important to cut off the peduncles at the stage of two or three colored lower buds, and at the same time leave leaves on the plant 5-7 (the more they remain, the more nutrients will enter the corms, and it will be larger).

If procrastinate with the cutting of the peduncle, all the nutrients will go to its development, and the corms will be underdeveloped. When stored, it can dry up, and if it persists until the spring, a full-fledged gladiolus will not grow from it.

Vera CEEJKO

Peduncles need to tie

Gladiolus planted in rows across the ridge. At the beginning and at the end of each row I drive a peg high about 1 m. Then I cut the twine. Its length is twice as large as the row plus 20-30. See the end of the twine tied to the peg, the rest is wound on my fingers and, going to the other end of the row, wrapped in twine plants on a "snake" principle. Then I go back and I wrap the plants with the same "snake" on the other side. I tighten the twine, connect both ends. Well fixes the plants and the finished plastic mesh, which I pull on pegs in the spring. Then the gladiolus sprout through its cells.

Tatyana SIDORENKO

Unscrew the stems

On the flat side of the plant, make a sharp incision with a narrow blade of the knife. With one hand supporting the inflorescence, press the other finger with the opposite side of the incision and break the stem, slightly bending. Then, holding the plant below the break (so as not to pull out with the root), gently unscrew the stem of the peduncle.

FOR THE NOTICE

Before digging, check if the gladiolus is ripe. Roughen the soil and see what color the scales of the tuber are painted. The unattended baby is usually white. If it is not ripe, then the adult bulbs are not ready for digging.

Corms of plants ripen ideally, after flowering of which I> 30-40 days have passed

Autumn work

It is important not only to dig out gladioli, but also to do it in the appropriate time. With the onset of stable low night temperatures (-3-0 degrees), the gladiolus is excavated. Usually in the first days of October and not later than 15 October.

Priority of excavation

When determining the timing, take into account the conditions of the soil-climatic zone, weather, varietal characteristics, planting time, agrofon.

If large doses of organic fertilizers were introduced before planting, cleaning is started earlier, as well as in rainy, damp autumn, as all this contributes to the development of bacterial and fungal diseases (fusariosis, sclerotinia, botrytis, septoriosis, bacteriosis). Initially, they dig up plants of early varieties grown from two-three-year-old corms, the latter - late-barking, obtained from babies.

The order is due to the different resistance of different-age corms to diseases. Previously, digs and varieties with red, burgundy and purple flowers, as they are more often sick.

Igor GRECHANIY

Digging and Cropping

I dig the gladiolus with a shovel. Often I hear that many people use forks, but in this case a lot of babies are lost. Then carefully choose from the ground corms and tubers in a container, preliminarily pruned a flower stalk with leaves. At the same time I shake the ground and cut off the roots.

Do not dry the corms with leaves for two reasons. First, the leaves evaporate a lot of moisture, taking it from the corms, which makes them soft. Secondly, they often carry pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases, as well as thrips, and during storage, the entire "army" can switch to corms.

Vera CEEJKO

My Technology

Dug out and trimmed gladioli dried on film. I clean my hands to less injure the corms. If you do not remove the roots and the bottom immediately, you need to wait for complete drying, then the formed cork layer will protect the daughter corm from damage.

Sick specimens collected separately and then burned. But if these are new, rare varieties - I treat them with fungicides (for example, the "Maxim" preparation, according to the instructions) and after drying I store it in a separate container.

If cleaned in dry weather, gladioli can not be washed, but in a rainy planting material is well washed in running water, then pickled in a solution of fungicides and dried.

Igor GRECHANIY

"Wounded" will survive!

Unintentionally she cut a corms of varietal beautiful gladiolus with a shovel. Can I save her?

Galina Mikhailova

If there is at least a part of the Donets left on the corms, you can save. But it is important that the bulb is free from signs of disease. In this case, it should be thoroughly rinsed, dried and covered with zebrafish. Store only separately from other corms.

Elena Groshavin, Moscow

Reference by topic: Species Gladiolus - cultivation and care, species and reproduction

3 drying experience: choose acceptable

Experience No. 1. Healthy bulbs a couple of days dry in the greenhouse, I separate the baby and cut off the roots. Then I put it in plastic boxes. In one container I prepare (more concentrated, rather than recommend) solution of insecticide from thrips. I fill two tanks with clean water. Corms on grades on-sypayu in the grid and - in the solution for 15-20 min. I let the fluids drain and rinse in turn in two containers of clean water. I pour the corms into the mesh boxes, air in the air and bring them into the room. I turn on the electric heater and the fan for 3-4 days.

In poorly dried corms, the problems lie in the place of the cut of the stem. Therefore, I spread them down with the Don. Having switched off electrical appliances, I keep the gladiolus for another 1,5 month at a temperature of + 22-25 degrees.

Mikhail KUZNETSOV, Moscow

Experience No. 2. In good weather, the corms are dried for several hours in the open air, then I spread them into boxes (no more than two layers) and land in the room at + 20-25 degrees. Two days later, I carry them for a week to a warmer place - + 35 hail, (near the battery or a warm stove, controlling the temperature, for which I put the thermometer on top). Then I clean, culling sick corms. I fold in a clean container and dry it at + 18-20 hail, for another month. At the same temperature, separately from the corms, dry the baby, also for a month.

Elena Groshavin, Moscow

Experience No. 3. In the first three days after cleaning, the land of corms and a baby in the shade in a draft. Then, on 7-10 days, I lay out in two or three layers on the grilles in a room with a temperature of up to 30 degrees. At the same time I turn on the gas convector and periodically - the kitchen hood. If dry to dry, the evaporated moisture will condense between the covering scales, and these are ideal conditions for the development of diseases. In the following 20 days I dry up at + 20-25 degrees.

Igor GRECHANIY, settlement Dimitrovo

Pre-winter treatment

Gladiolus in autumn folded into a shoebox and put on the kitchenny cupboard. А recently looked в she — most bulbs was covered stains, decreased в sizes. They are infected?

Emma Koemets

Neglect preventive measures before storing for storage! Each batch of corms I put in a plastic bag and seconds 5 spray it with an aerosol "Dichlophos".

Then tightly tied for 20 min. for the destruction of thrips.

You can also use the old proven method to soak the planting material before drying in a tincture of garlic: 1 kg of garlic, crush, 2-3 an hour in 10 L of water and pour the corms for 1 an hour.

It should be remembered that the ideal storage temperature is + 4-5 degrees, but not higher than 9, since thrips can harm only when this temperature threshold is exceeded.

Another way to fight learned thanks to the case .. Purchased camomile seeds in actual fact turned out to be ordinary tansy. She grew up luxurious, and next to her were planted gladioli. There was no thrips for them that year! Now in the summer, during flowering, I specially harvest tansy grass, dry land, crush and pour the corms while laying for storage.

With any method of wintering, the planting material should be inspected monthly, the diseased corms should be removed, the dried too moist.

If a mold appears (especially on a baby), plant material immediately, the baby should be soaked for half an hour in an 1% solution of copper sulfate, then dried, for example, over a heating battery.

Igor GRECHANIY

Store corms need at + 5-7 degrees, and humidity up to 70%. This mode must be observed, otherwise they will prematurely germinate.

STORAGE OF THE GLADIOS

In what and where to store?

Last year, I could not keep half of the gladioli - they dried up. She kept in kapron stockings, hung in a cool pantry. I was told that old corms came to be worthless. But they were only bought a year!

Maria OSIPOVA, Verkhnaya Sosnovka village, Nizhny Novgorod region.

Usually at small volumes the best way of storage is in gauze or cotton pouches (with labels) in the vegetable box of the refrigerator (safety up to 95%).

Chances are few

When digging gladiolus on and corms instead of babies, he discovered a bunch of white outgrowths, although in spring there was a young and beautiful planting material. Is it a disease or the consequences of heat?

Ekaterina Koreina, village. Shumyachi, Smolensk region.

Such corms are better to destroy, so they are infected with root cancers, or growing babies. The disease is mainly manifested in young corms. If an 2-3 tuber is infected, they can be treated with the same drugs as with fusariose, but there is little chance of completely healing.

Lyudmila SENKO

An interesting observation: if there are synthetic fibers in the tissue used for the pouches, the germination capacity and especially the germination energy of the planting material is reduced.

If there is a lot of planting material, it can be stored in wooden or plastic mesh boxes in a dry cellar with good ventilation. Many growers save planting material, for example, in attics near stovepipe, in spaces between balcony doors, between window frames.

Igor GRECHANIY, settlement Dimitrovo

Helps the pantry

I keep all the corms in ElectroMagazine. It looks like a big backpack, it can be of different capacities.

Filled, hang it on the balcony, when the negative temperatures come, I turn on and forget about the problems! The device is equipped with a thermostat, which allows you to set and monitor the constant temperature inside. I usually install on + 3-4 degrees, and my bulbs comfortably winter, do not dry out and do not mold. This is how I now store my entire huge collection.

Valentina Surikova, Moscow

DISEASES AND PESTS OF GLADIOLUSES

Even with all the conditions of growing, plants and planting material can get sick. But you can cope with this if you know some secrets. Specialists and flower growers-amateurs have tried them on their own plants, have been successfully using for many years and are observing the results in their gardens.

Disease in the winter

If in winter I find signs of disease on corms, I must do heat treatment.

In one container I pour hot water (+ 40 degrees), the second - cold or pour snow. Bulbs I keep in hot water for almost 5 minutes, put the baby in a kapron stocking, lower it for 2 minutes, then - into a cold one. So that the water does not cool down, put the tank in a tank with hot water.

Such treatment helps to destroy all fungal diseases.

Then I dry it on the newspaper, sometimes I turn on the fan. For further storage, they must be absolutely dry. As a result, I grow beautiful flowers!

Mikhail KUZNETSOV, Moscow

Mold

What if in early March found mold on Donets some corms? Stored в vegetable compartment refrigerator.

Nina Krupenko, Gomel

Mold usually appears in poorly dried planting material. Or in the box where it was stored, it was very wet.

Corms should be dried well, for example, by putting the heating battery.

Gently, so as not to damage, clean the bottom of the mold. After that, it is important to disinfect it: treat it with greenery, a solution of potassium permanganate, powder of activated charcoal or rub garlic juice. At this time, it's too early to plant, so wrap the corms in several layers of the newspaper and keep on until planting.

Lyudmila SENKO

ЕIf fusariosis

Has planted in May gladioluses, and on newa place. soil light, sandy. Some of the peduncles did not appear, and the leaves turned yellow. Why was there no flowering? Is it possible to put the newly formed baby in the new season and how to handle it before it?

Irina Grechiho, Vinnytsia region

Apparently, the gladioli fell ill with fusariosis, or dry rot, corms. But as they sprouted and gave babies, the defeat is still weak. Yellowing and even the browning of the lower leaves (seemingly dry) seem to indicate the disease.

The main thing is to destroy the diseased plants in time and prevent the fusa-ryosa from spreading to the next year (in any case it is impossible to store diseased bulbs). If the baby was lying in one box with a sick corms, and moreover, the lower leaves also began to dry, burn - and the faster, the better.

As a preventive measure before planting the corms of gladioli, it is necessary to etch 1-2 hours in a warm dark solution of potassium permanganate.

Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. Sciences, Yalta

For the prevention of diseases once in 10-20 days, alternating with infusions, I process planting with "Immunocytophyte" or "Phytosporin". "Chemistry" I try to use as little as possible, only in extreme cases, when biological methods are ineffective

Thrips does not allow to bloom ...

Why flower budsdiols wither, not having blossomed?

Anna Zhilinskaya, Berezno village, Tver region.

This happens more often with trip-som damage. And it's important not to wait for such consequences, but to prophylactically treat plants with a suitable fungicide. Do this in two or three ways: as soon as four leaves are formed, then when the peduncle leaves and when the bud is stained.

Wireworm

In order not to give chance to the wireworm, just before the planting of corms on the site it is necessary to lay baits to the depth of 10 cm - pieces of carrots and beets. Next to each stick a stick in the ground. Through 2-3 weeks, get baits from the soil, discard them and repeat the procedure. Cultivation of gladioli in raised beds, the walls of which are made from a slate dug into the depth of 20 sm, are also saved from the wire.

Medvedka

In the summer, a few drops of sunflower oil are poured into the holes of her moves and immediately - 1-2 l of water. A few minutes later the bear comes to the surface and dies. At the beginning of October (before the temperature drops less than + 10 degrees), arrange trap pits with a depth of 50-60 cm - one per hundred square meters. The bottom and walls are covered with a film and filled with warm half-buried manure - an excellent place for pest wintering. With the onset of persistent frosts, manure is scattered around the site, and pests are killed.

Lyudmila SENKO

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF THE GLADIOS

Rejuvenating mask.

Leaves of gladiolus through a meat grinder. 2 tbsp. stir with xNUMX st.l. fatty sour cream, add 2 tsp. thick honey. Apply on face and cover with gauze for 2-12 minutes. Remove the mixture with a cotton swab dipped in lukewarm water, then apply a regular cream.

Vitamin mask for dry skin.

Cut a few leaves into a meat grinder. 2 tbsp. mixed with 1 st.l. olive oil and 1 tsp. honey. Blend the mixture on your face for 10 minutes, rinse with lukewarm water.

For oily skin.

Two or three white gladiolus flowers chop and 2 st.l. Mix the pulp with whipped egg whites. Add 1 ч.л. liquid honey. Mask to put it on for 15 minutes, rinse with cool water, then use a regular cream.

Dina BALYASOVA, phytotherapeutist, Moscow

Gladiolus: planting and care - share experiences

Juvenile gladiolus bulb from babies - for renovation

You can update the old planting material of gladioli with a juvenile (young) bulb, grown from a baby. This method is good for everyone: reliable, economical and, most importantly, allows you to quickly rejuvenate the variety. I'll tell you how it's done.

Before boarding with the children, you must remove the shell. In this case, you should pay attention to the number of root tubercles: the more of them, the faster the baby will develop, regardless of its size.

Plant it, as soon as the leaves start to blossom on the birch, in a bright spot. Before planting a cleaned-up baby, I soak in Novosil, Zirkon or Epine. If the quality of the planting material is doubtful, it is also necessary to treat it with the fungicide "Vitaros" or "Maxim".

In the grooves with a depth of 5-6 cm (if the spring is “wet”, the depth is 3-4 cm), a layer of sand is poured about 1 cm, then spilled with water, in which 1 g of potassium permanganate, boric acid and copper sulfate are dissolved in 10 l of water . This must be done, since a child planted in dry soil will give moisture to it and thereby the sprouting of the root tubercles will slow down, and in hot weather their drying can also occur.

Children land on a width of 20-25 cm, in a row - 2-4 cm (depending on the fraction) in a checkerboard pattern. Landings are filled up with the same as at the bottom, with sand, spilled again with water

and fall asleep with soil. All sorts are planted separately. Planting is desirable to be covered with peat. straw cutting, humus or sawdust to maintain soil looseness.

How to accelerate development

The development of crops from the "baby" is rather slow, the first sheet is formed after 20-30 days. This is due to a poorly developed root system. To speed up the process, planting to normal shoots (and if the cold is longer, it is better to cover with a spon-bond).

Root growth at the initial stage is promoted by foliar top dressing. At the beginning of the vegetation, spraying on molybdenum leaves (1 g per 10 L of water at 10 sq. M) is carried out. When two real leaves appear, the plants are fed with a solution of zinc sulfate (2 g per 10 L of water at 1 sq. M). In the phase of 3-4 leaves and then during flowering, boron (2 g boric acid for 10 l of water at 1 sq. M) is introduced to produce large corms.

From root feeding I use microbiological fertilizer. In a plastic 15-liter container pour 10 l of warm water, put 3 l candied jam (or 1 kg of sugar), mix and add 100 ml of the preparation "Baikal EM-1". For better fermentation I add baker's yeast. The whole solution is well stirred and put in a film greenhouse for 8-10 days. The capacity must be raised from the ground to a chair so that the solution does not cool overnight. Next, take a bucket of mullein or 0,5 buckets of chicken manure, divorce in an 50-liter barrel and infuse for 24 hours. Then the infusion of mullein is filtered into an 200-liter barrel, a solution is added with fermented "Baikal EM-1", filled with water to full volume, closed with a lid and infused for another 2-3 days. I add calcium nitrate (20-25 g per 10 L per sq m) to the resulting solution, which contributes to the growth of the root system. Prepared in this way, the fertilizer watered beds from the watering can directly on the plants, at the rate of 10 l at 1 sq. M. m. For a season it is necessary to spend 2-3 such additional dressings.

For the prevention of fungal diseases it is useful to silt the soil with the preparation "Phytosporin" best in the form of a paste, the action of which is enhanced by the Gummi fertility elixir. It is diluted with water (1: 3). For strait furrows before planting, use 1 st. l. liquid preparation on 10 l of water. The same concentration is maintained with spraying or watering gladioli during vegetation at an interval of 2-3 a week. "Phytosporin" is compatible with insecticides ("Aktelik", "Fury", "Decis"), which are used to combat trip-sama and aphids.

It is not necessary to drink often, but it is necessary to loosen the soil, but at the same time, if the planting has not been covered up. For the prevention of diseases periodically (the interval 10-20 days, preferably alternating solutions) I process the planting with "Immunocytophyte" or "Fi-tosporin". "Chemistry" I try to use as little as possible, only in extreme cases, when biological methods are not effective.

The final

Dig up young bulbs, grown from babies, lastly, after adult bulbs and stored in the same way as usual planting material.

Gladioli with a guarantee

My dacha site from early spring until late autumn is buried in colors and scents of various colors. I admire everyone, but I give preference to proud gladioli. I'll try to share my secrets of caring for them.

Caring for bulbs

It is necessary to learn the following: from the correctly chosen period of harvesting gladioli depends in many respects the successful preservation of corms in winter, then in the spring we will get a healthy planting material.

Warm autumn weather and the introduction of other fertilizers at the end of the season can somewhat accelerate the maturing period of the gladiolus replacing corms.

Cold rainy weather in the fall contributes to the development of all kinds of fungal diseases, so you can not delay with cleaning.

I dig out gladioli in late September - early October, when the leaves of the plants begin to turn yellow. Having dug up the bushes with a pitchfork, I take the plants by the stems with one hand and, holding them, gently brush them off and lay them on the film without extra land.

Then cut the stem under the base or leave a small stump (0.5-0,7 cm). You can also break the stem under the base of the corms: holding it in one hand, the other must sharply tilt the stem then to the left, then to the right. It separates easily, without much effort.

After removing the stem, I take the corms in my left hand, and with my right thumb I press strongly on the edge of the old maternal corm. If this is not done immediately, then already in 2-3 days it will be difficult to carry out the separation.

I wash the bulbs of gladioli, treat them with a strong solution of potassium permanganate and lay them in a single layer in wooden boxes with sides so that the air circulates well and put in a warm place. Although, if the weather is clear, you can dry the corms in the sun for three days. In general, drying should be done in the shortest time - so corms are stored better. Incidentally, I sometimes use an ordinary hair dryer for this purpose.

I store well-dried onions in a cardboard box on the balcony, although you can do this in the refrigerator or in a dry cellar. Just remember that the optimal temperature for planting material of gladioli is 5-7 degrees heat,

Council

Every 2-3 year is worth treating corms with fungicides to prevent the development of fungal diseases.

5 years

Some amateur flower growers (it was my sin, too), for inexperience, they plant replacing corms for many years. As a result, the flower stalks of plants become weaker every year, the sizes of flowers and ears become less intense, the susceptibility to diseases increases and the ability to reproduce decreases. And then comes the moment when the corms just do not germinate. There is nothing surprising in this: they are allowed a period of no more than 5 years, after which such planting material should be thrown away.

But corms grown from children, fully retain the signs of a mother plant.

Plant them with "bouquets"

Where it is better to place gladioli? Very beautiful look these flowers, planted "bouquets" next to daylilies, salvies, coniferous shrubs.

If the flower garden gladiolus encircled around the perimeter of marigolds and nasturtiums, it will not only be attractive, but also useful, as these plants disinfect the soil from the causative agents of fungal diseases.

His Majesty the Gladiolus

With pleasure I read your site! I really love gladioli! I have them 100 varieties! I hope that readers will be interested in my experience of growing them!

The combination of noble elegance and fluffiness of inflorescences, stagnancy, incredible texture of flowers with folded and corrugated petals, a diverse range of colors - all this is his majesty the gladiolus! But that he pleased with a magnificent flowering, we must try!

Planting gladiolus

A month before planting, I take out the bulbs from the basement. I cleaned of the scales and treated with Fufanon or Aktara. If I notice the specks - sores, cut them out and work with green. In early May, when the soil temperature is about 10 degrees, I start landing. Planted in well-lit places, at a depth of three diameters of the bulb and at a distance of 15-20,

Of course, there are a lot of work with these handsome men! Gladiolus knows his worth. It is not for nothing that people call it a crook in the people - not everyone gets it in their hands and dissolves them for every flower, but he generously gives me his beauty!

Care for the gladiolus

Simple: weeding weeds, regular watering, especially in the first month, when the inflorescence is formed. After watering I loosen the soil and mulch sawdust. Gladioluses grow up, and, despite the fact that they grow on well-fertilized soil, they need fertilizing.

The first (when 3 of the present sheet appears) is nitrogen (30 g of urea at 10 L of water).

The second (before the appearance of peduncles) is phosphorus-potassium (50 g superphosphate and 30 potassium sulphate).

The third (after flowering) - 5 g manganese on 10 l. water. 2-3 times a season I spend foliar dressing with a solution of microelements.

During the vegetation period I spray plants several times with thrips with the drugs Aktara, Decis, Actellik with an interval of 20 days. Trypses are the most insidious enemies of the gladiolus. Insects pierce the leaves and suck out the juice. White spots appear and the leaves wither. Naturally, such plants (depending on the degree of damage) or bloom poorly, or do not bloom at all.

Cleaning gladioli for storage

I try to spend cleaning in 20-x of September (about 20-30 days after flowering). Bulbs dig up, pruned stem, leaving a stump length 3-4, see I wash in water and treat with a solution of fungicide for 30 minutes. When gladioli dry after treatment, I cut off the old bulb and separate the baby.

Carefully inspect, any lesions are cut out and covered with greens. Ill gladioli for the third year planted under the winter. At first I was very much afraid that they would not ascend in the spring. But the fears were in vain. They rise, however, later than those bulbs that were planted in the spring. But, in this way, I save them! Dry the remaining bulbs around the stove for a month.

Then I put them in cardboard boxes, put in the same slices of garlic and put them in the basement, where the temperature does not exceed 10 degrees. These conditions inhibit the growth of thrips. Another important point.

Gladiolus can not be planted with cucumbers, tomatoes, asters, beans and tobacco.

Gladioli - a sharp sword

Gladioluses always grew near my mother in the garden.

Beautiful, lush, tall ... In childhood, for every birthday of mine, which falls in mid-August, I received bouquets from these flowers from everyone. Because, probably, I love them so much so far. In my garden now also grow gladioli of all sizes and stripes, different flowering periods. The flowers of the gladioli have a very wide range of colors: white, pink and soft pastel, coral, red and raspberry, the original green and even more unusual two-color ... For long xiphoid leaves, the gladiolus got our name as fencer, and the Latin name comes from the word gladus - "sword".

Combinations

I combine gladioli with a variety of garden flowers. For example, the combination of multi-colored gladioli with dahlias is fantastically beautiful and ridiculously simple to perform. The large-flowered delicate gladiolus 'Quadrille' looks great together with yellow decorative sunflowers. The pink-raspberry variety 'Stop, the moment' plays so interestingly surrounded by any pink annual delphinium!

And the gladioli 'Purple Flora', 'Blue Snowflakes', 'Blue Lightning' mixed with perennial lupins create such a gorgeous flower mass - you can not take your eyes off of their lush flowering! I also tried small-flowered mini-gladioli, which, of course, were not in my childhood. These varieties are fairly new. They are so good in containers, and in their "legs" you can plant any ampelous or dwarf annuals ...

The secret of flowering

The secret of lush flowering lurks in constant top dressing. The plant spends a lot of resources on blooming. Potassium and phosphoric top dressing are necessary for gladioli to form powerful peduncles capable of withstanding the weight of large flowers, as well as for the full development of corms and the formation of children and replacement corms. Top dressing is carried out all season as the plants grow.

Landing

I advise you to dig a place for planting gladioli in the fall, to a depth of about 35 cm. In the spring, take your time with the planting, because if you place the corms in moist and cold ground, they will develop worse and are more likely to hurt. Wait until the end of April - the beginning of May, loosen the bed again and then plant dahlias already.

Planting depth varies slightly and depends on the size of each corm, but consider that it is equal to three diameters. Before planting, the material must be kept in potassium permanganate or in the “Fundazole” solution (10-15 minutes). I dig up the corms almost at the very end of September, wash and pickle again - and dry. They are stored with me .. at a temperature of + 3 ... + 9 ° C and humidity of about 50%.

Planting and caring for gladioli, harvesting and storing gladiolus bulbs | Floristics Info

Gladioli: LOVE FOR LIFE

For forty years, Tamara Submene from Irkutsk grows gladioli and says that this is her love for life. Today she shares her experience ...

Talking about their favorites florist naminaet with the basics and reminds that the main way of reproduction of these bulbous plants - tuber buds (children). Then gladioli grow resistant to disease, adapt well to new conditions. However, if you plant a baby, you should not wait for flowers in the first summer.

- You can not dig corms immediately after the buds bloom, - warns Tamara Konstantinovna. - Gladiolus must sit in the ground for another month in order for the bulbs to stand, otherwise they will be poorly stored.

And then nothing complicated: in October, corms are washed and put on a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. After that it sends for another half an hour to lie down in a solution of any fungicide (20 g per bucket of water). Then they are carefully washed again and laid out to dry for a month. Planting material is stored in a dry basement in a hanging position in a cotton bag (in no case in a plastic bag!).

CLEANING OF GLADIOLUSES FROM CHILDREN

Tamara Konstantinovna warns that many novice gardeners have problems when growing gladioli from tuber buds. Growing seedlings, they begin to divide the plants, while damaging the root system. As a result, the flowers die, not having time to please the owners with their beauty.

- To prevent this from happening, I clean the baby first thing - I release it from the hard shell. Then in a container with a diameter of about 15, I plant five children - four along the edges and one in the middle. When shoots appear, plants can be planted outside in prepared holes. It is important to pull out the seedlings with a clod of earth. Then the roots of gladiolus are better preserved, and this is a guarantee that the plants will not die. So that it was easy to pull the seedlings out of the tank, I shed the soil well.

LANDING OF GLADIOLUSES IN GROUND

When planted with corms, Tamara Konstantinovna in March gets them out of storage and takes them to a room for germination for a month.

“Like a potato, gladiolus has enough of its own food,” explains the florist. - The main thing is to put the corms in the shade and not wet the roots. From mid-April, you can already land. But do not tighten with the landing - it must be completed before the end of April.

OUR REFERENCE

The depth of planting of corms of gladioli depends on the composition of the soil and their size. On average, you need to plant at a depth equal to the three diameters of corm. If small corms are deeply buried, they may not grow due to the lack of air access. Babe put on a depth of 3-5, see.

In advance for digging, add buckets of humus and 1-2 g superphosphate to the soil on 3 sq. M 15-20, you can add ash. Planting holes at a distance of 20, see. If you want to get early flowers, gladioli can be planted in a film greenhouse (but not glazed - under glass the gladioli are too hot, the stems grow thin and weak).

- Another important point: gladioli love good watering. It happens, even cucumbers will not be poured, but gladioli are necessary! - smiles Tamara Konstantinovna.

- Before the appearance of the second sheet, I pay much attention to weeding, then, as a rule, only single weeds appear that cannot compete with plants.

Oscar out of competition!

Over the past decades, Tamara Podkamennaya went through a lot of varieties. And it should be noted that the modern range of gladioli includes several tens of thousands of varieties - the plants are divided by flowering time, flower size, color. All of them grow, of course, impossible, so Tamara Konstantinovna stopped only on some. First of all - this is the red Oscar.

- This is an amazing flower, - says the interlocutor, - preserving its properties for many years. Among gladioli there are many hybrids that quickly degenerate. But Oscar does not leave the stage: whatever novelties appear on the market, this flower always enjoys the love of gardeners.

TIP: Cut gladioli for bouquets better in the morning or in the evening - in the state of the first two half-dissolved flowers. Flowers should not be wet.

WHY THE GLADIOLES ARE YELLOW AND HOW TO FIGHT WITH THIS?

Blooming gladioli are beautiful. It is unlikely that there is still such a stately flower in the garden. But sometimes even this plant has problems when its leaves begin to turn yellow and wither. What is the reason?

Fade and dry

Most often, diseases caused by viruses, fungi and bacteria are to blame. This often happens because gardeners plant infected bulbs.

Sometimes the disease is transmitted to the seed material, even if it is of excellent quality, from infected soil. In diseases of gladioli, pests that carry pathogens can also be blamed. If this happens, you will have to forget about the amazing flowering, because due to diseases the plants may even die.

Note

When choosing bulbs of gladioli, you should not focus only on their size. If they are large, this may not indicate great potential, but at a considerable age. To determine it, look at the bottom - in old specimens it is flat, of considerable diameter, in young ones - concave, small. Bulbs should be dense, without foci of rot.

How to overcome the disease

Gladioli are affected by the same diseases as all bulb cultures. Therefore, before you plant this plant in your garden, you need to arm yourself with knowledge. It must be borne in mind that viruses are ubiquitous, they are found in different regions, so the fight against them is quite tedious and does not always give the expected results. If the soil in the garden is acidic, you need to be patient in order to overcome mushroom infections, because for them this environment is very favorable. And some diseases generally develop on weeds, so a flower bed without them greatly reduces the risk of infection.

What will save these flowers from various misfortunes? If you decide to plant gladioli, be sure to disinfect the soil on which they will grow. When the 3 of the year passes, move the gladioli to a new place where marigolds and calendula used to grow.

As a prophylaxis of fungal diseases, corms are recommended to be treated with special preparations before planting, in particular, in the “Fundazole” solution for half an hour. Koshcha gladioli planted, the earth is mulched with pine needles. And in order to protect plants from diseases, the flowers are treated with 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Gladiolus needs treatment

If you notice that the plant was affected by Fusarium, then, after digging up the bulbs, leave them for 3 weeks in a room with an air temperature not lower than 30 degrees. In spring, they should be treated in 3% potassium permanganate solution.

If the bulbs are affected by black rot, in the spring you need to add dry lime or dolomite flour to the soil. Asami spray the flowers and soil with Bordeaux fluid.

Another problem of gladioli is bulbs affected by gray rot. To help cope with the disease, they are treated with “Fun-Dazole” before planting and dried at a temperature of 30 degrees, and adult plants are treated every two weeks with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Sometimes these plants are attacked by bacterial scab. Such measures help to resist it: before planting, the bulbs are kept in hot water for 15 minutes at a temperature of 53 degrees. Then dipped for half an hour in 3% solution of copper or iron sulfate.

As for bacterial diseases, most often they affect gladioli growing on alkaline and neutral soils. The culprits of the spread are nematodes and soil bacteria.

DIGG GLADIOS AFTER POTATOES

The flower growers who first raised gladiolus probably still doubt whether they need to be dug up for the winter or not. The answer is unequivocal: it is necessary, and without fail. It should be borne in mind that each variety has its own optimal period.

Who is last?

For example, dark-colored gladioluses are dug up first. And they do it in the fall, koshcha get cold. The main thing is to catch up to the first frosts, because the plant bulbs are very tender. They are sheltered or transferred to the basement.

But why do plants of dark shades require such urgent care? The fact is that cherry, maroon, black, as well as blue flowers are characterized by rather weak immunity, and therefore more than their other counterparts are susceptible to attacks of fungal diseases.

Council

It is advisable to remove the bulbs from the ground on a dry and sunny day. Make it easier with garden pitchforks. Pulling gladioli on the stems and leaves is quite dangerous, because you can damage the tubers and lose the bulbs, children.

Dates are shifting

As the weather increasingly brings us climatic surprises, the usual dates for digging bulbs are shifting. And instead of the end of September - beginning of October, many flower growers extract planting material later - even in early November. Naturally, if this is accompanied by a favorable air temperature, the changes of which must be monitored. In general, the first cold snap is a signal to dig out gladioli. At this time, jokes with bulbs are bad, they can die even at a temperature of minus 1 degree. In a word, dig out gladioli after you have harvested potatoes, but have time to do this before picking late cabbage.

Note

Harvesting gladioli in the fall is usually carried out a month after their flowering. During this time, the plant manages to form a replacement corm and baby bulbs. At the same time, the stems that have bloomed must be immediately removed from the plant so that it does not waste strength and nutrients on the unnecessary aboveground part. But if you missed this deadline, then you can remove the bulbs from the soil about 3 weeks later.

And if ahead of schedule?

And what will happen if you dig a gladiolus passed a little earlier than the due date? There is no cause for concern. If the tuber has not yet ripened, he will manage to do this during storage. As for the onion children, such a situation is only to their advantage. Unripe "kids" still hold on tightly to the tuber, therefore they are easily removed from the ground, are not lost during sampling, have a light gray tint, which allows them to be accurately detected in the soil. The matured baby has a brown color, it easily separates from the bulb, but it is often lost, because it merges in color with the soil.

Disinfection

Since the trip pest is a big fan of gladioli so that the plant is too tough for it, the bulbs should be immersed in a container with a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate for 10 minutes. After that, treat it with one of such preparations as Decis or Fitoverm, and immediately send it to dry.

After 5 days, planting material can also be immersed in a solution of the fungicide "Maxim" (4 ml / 2 l of water) or "Fundazole" for 30 minutes. This will certainly protect the bulbs from the appearance of fungi.

Council

In a city apartment, planting material is stored in cardboard boxes from shoes with holes. Each tuber is best wrapped in natural cotton fabric or paper. And the most important thing is to maintain a temperature of 5-10 degrees of heat in the storage place.

GLADIOLUSES - PREPARATION OF PLANTING MATERIAL

Probably, not only I am amazed by the many new, very bright and unusual varieties of gladiolus presented in garden centers. Judging by the rich assortment of planting material, interest in this plant is growing again. Since gladioli are very light-requiring, they need a sunny place for active growth, correct formation and bright flowering. Since even a slight shading delays the development of plants.

Preparation of planting material

It is usually recommended to peel the corms about three weeks before planting. And then germinate them in the light and in the heat, where sprouts of 1-2 cm are formed.

If planting material is not prepared, this must be done now. Often on the bulbs you can see shiny spots - this is scab. Remove the affected areas with a sharp knife, and treat the wound with powdered charcoal or gloss over with brilliant green.

Before planting corms, it is advisable to process in a solution of "Maxim" or karbofos (according to instructions). Then rinse in clean water.

Many flower growers then still process planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate at room temperature (at the tip of a knife / l). Soak for the night.

The baby also needs to be cleaned, then doused with hot (40-45 degrees) water and soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate overnight. This stimulates a more friendly root sprouting.

Natalia Danilova, biologist, St. Petersburg

Landing

Gladioli are usually planted in early May, when the soil at a depth of 10-15 cm warms up to + 9-10 degrees. Premature landing in cold ground delays their germination.

In the prepared place, rows are laid out at a distance of 25-30 cm. Grooves are made (their depth depends on the size of the corms), the bottom is leveled and sprinkled with river sand with a layer of 1-2 cm. In such a groove (if the bottom turned out wide, the bulbs can be laid out in two staggered). If the ground is sandy, it is not necessary to fill it with sand (as is often recommended) from above, cover it with excavated soil. On a site with heavy clay soil, a layer of sand is poured on top, and then sprinkled with earth.

Care

After planting, it is better to mulch the soil with non-acid peat or compost 2-3 years ago without weed seeds. If left as is, you need to periodically gently and shallowly loosen.

Remember, with too dense planting, flowering is delayed for several days, and very few large corms capable of flowering in the next season grow from the baby.

Bulbs gladioli - preparation and landing - video (good)

Gladiolus. Preparation and planting of bulbs

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Dacha with their own hands > Flowers - planting and care > Gladiolus > Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks

Category Gladiolus Tags disease, cultivation, gladiolus, landing, reproduction, advice, care

OOO "Sad" 04/04/2016 38

Pear (photo) description of planting and care: from the seedlings to the tree

Growing cabbage in the Tyumen region - planting and care

38 Review (s)

Vera DYUZHAKOVA, Kemerovo
15/04/2020 (06:16) #

Often I collect baby gladioli from collectors. This is an excellent, and inexpensive option for obtaining new varietal plants that are healthy and will bloom well in the future.
I plant a baby in early April, and sometimes earlier.

My way
Half fill the cups with earth (200 ml) + a layer of 1 cm of river sand washed with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Pre-soak the baby in a solution of potassium permanganate or "Maxim" (according to the instructions, stand for 100 hours). Then I carefully remove the scales from it, so as not to damage the sprouts and swollen roots, then the germination rate is almost XNUMX%.
I lay out 3-4 pieces in a glass, sprinkle a little with sand and earth (1 cm). I make planting in a box and cover with a film. Before the emergence of seedlings, I leave her on the floor, and then transfer to the windowsill.
I water when the topsoil dries up.
As the plants grow, I add soil three times.
In May, I move the baby to the garden. I keep it in the greenhouse during the day, bring it into the house at night or cover it.
I plant in the ground after May 20 - in a row, right in the cups, cutting off the bottom with scissors. I make the holes deep with a narrow scoop, so that the tanks are flush with the ground or even slightly lower.

Reply
Oksana Rudaya, Kiev
08/04/2020 (09:37) #

In some corms, sprouts appeared on the side, in others from above, but bent sideways and even down. Why is this so? And how do I plant them later?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  08/04/2020 (09:37) #
  
  - Sprouts appear primarily in early varieties and grow according to gravity - up, regardless of how the bulb lies at that moment. If there is still time before planting, spread them downside down - the seedlings will straighten a little, and then will level out during growth.
  But if you are in a hurry and are already ready to plant, put the corm in the hole with a little sideways so that the sprout looks up and the bottom into the depths of the earth.
  With the lateral sprouts, decide for yourself: what size they are (elongated ones are best removed), whether the central one (if not, the lateral one needs to be left), what size the bulb (on a small one central one is enough), how many total sprouts woke up?
  Remember, if many sprouts (5-8 or more) wake up on the bulb, it needs to be burned. It's a disease.
  
  Reply
Maria
08/04/2020 (09:37) #

I want to process the corms in the garlic infusion (300 g / 10 l) before planting? I read that this is done in the fall, and whether it is possible in the spring, I do not know.

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  08/04/2020 (09:37) #
  
  - Of course, it is possible to process, and to some extent this replaces chemical treatment for diseases and pests, especially thrips (100 g of garlic juice, 1 liter of water, soaked for 2-3 hours).
  When pre-sowing treatment, etchants with fungicidal and insecticidal properties are more often used, for example, “Maxim” or “prestige” (according to the instructions). I use the suspension "Prestige" + "Fundazole" (the second half dose) - I dip it immediately before planting.
  
  Reply
Olga Zaitseva, Kuvandyk
08/04/2020 (09:36) #

If you plant gladioli in mid-May, now you need to leave the bulbs in the refrigerator? Or is it already possible to get it out and put it in the room?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  08/04/2020 (09:37) #
  
  - If the period (mid-May) is important, keep in the refrigerator. For large bulbs, two weeks for vernalization in the room is more than enough, and small ones can dry out. Then navigate along the birch - its leaves are blooming, which means it's time to plant. When planting in the heat, the root system develops worse. Tip: plant gladioli in two to three terms with a weekly interval. The flowering period will be extended.
  
  Reply
Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
08/04/2020 (09:36) #

For some reason, the children of gladiolus grow slowly, blooming soon. And will bulbs of the 3rd parsing bloom?
Lyudmila Gladchik. Pskov

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  08/04/2020 (09:36) #
  
  - So that bulbs of normal size grow out of the children, plant them as soon as the weather permits, without waiting for the soil to warm up to + 8-10 degrees. If there is snow, sprinkle ash on the site - it will melt faster. Then cover the earth with foil.
  
  And as soon as you can dig it up - plant it. Build a film greenhouse on top. Before the emergence of seedlings do not remove the shelter, only in the heat, open the ends. And do not let the baby blossom at the end of the season - break off the arrows. There you can plant small onions of the 3-4th parsing, with such a “fit” they will certainly bloom.
  According to the northerners, they grow gladioli in boxes or peat pots on the windowsills (verandas) with light. And when the weather permits, they dig in these containers in the garden.
  
  Reply
Angelina Myslina, Pushkin
12/10/2019 (17:52) #

Last summer is not the most favorable for heat-loving flowers, so I was afraid that my gladioli would rot, but surprisingly dug up the grown onions. But the flowers were embarrassed - there were some white specks on the petals. Maybe I overfeed them or was affected by excessive humidity?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  12/10/2019 (17:52) #
  
  - Spots and spots on flowers can appear for various reasons. The most harmless - the result of burns from fertilizing and chemical treatments. They can also be from thrips, which is also not dangerous.
  The most unpleasant option is a viral infection of the plant. In recent years, viruses have been activated, and there are several of them, and they parasitize on very many plants, including gladioli. Infection, in contrast to fungal infections, does not appear in any way on the bulbs and children on vegetative plants; sometimes it can be found in the form of streakiness on foliage and in the uncharacteristic color of the flower (spots and strokes). When infected with several viruses, the plants look oppressed, deformation and the development of dwarfism are possible. In the end, the bulb in the next season can give a bunch of thin shoots and die. The virus is transmitted through insect bites (thrips, aphids, etc.) and work tools.
  
  Sick plants destroy. They cannot be treated. Only insect treatment helps so that viruses from other plants do not transfer to gladioli or from infected gladioli to healthy ones. This should not be taken as a catastrophe, but it is necessary to fight by treating the plants from pests with Aktara, Confidor or Aktellik (according to instructions).
  
  Reply
Yana Labun
12/10/2019 (17:51) #

When digging corms, soft specimens came across. After drying, there were even more of them. What could it be from?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  12/10/2019 (17:51) #
  
  - Perhaps the bulbs “cooked” during drying from a heat source or were affected by boratitis. If this is a physiological decrease in turgor at some stage of drying, then everything returns to normal. This happens occasionally with us, if, for example, a gladiolus is pulled out of the ground and left with tops for several days. Those affected by botrytis will rot very soon, so keep an eye on the condition of the planting material.
  
  Reply
Olga Vlasenko
12/10/2019 (17:50) #

In preparation for storing corms of gladioli, I found that some of them have thrips. Probably brought an insect into the garden with planting material. Processed all the bulbs with Fufanon solution. Will it save you from the pest?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  12/10/2019 (17:50) #
  
  - Do not think that thrips came to you with planting material. This pest lives in nature. He is on field daisies, as well as on phlox and dahlias. Unless marigolds are poisonous to him. They say that the Dutch greenhouse trip adapted to the "chemistry".
  
  You did the right thing that you processed the bulbs with “Fufano-nom” (follow the instructions). This drug saves from thrips and onion mites, as it is an acaricide. Of course, all new plants entering our gardens bring new varieties of fungal diseases. This is inevitable. However, they are transmitted not only with the juice of diseased plants, but also through overseas vegetables and fruits, their purifications and residues sent to compost.
  
  Reply
Tatyana Grigorievna VYAZOVA, Nizhny Novgorod
02/08/2019 (14:32) #

Advise how to prepare gladioli for planting?
What is the dry distillation method?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  02/08/2019 (14:33) #
  
  It is known that germination of gladiolus bulbs usually takes several weeks. But it is worth it: germinated specimens bloom faster after planting in open ground.
  
  Having got gladiolus after winter storage, you need to prepare them. First, carefully remove the cover flakes and check for damage. Secondly, do not remove several layers of scales at once, because under them a stem could already begin to sprout, which can be easily damaged. You need to remove it carefully - layer by layer, and carefully tear off the old layer from the root bottom.
  All visible damage must be cut with a knife and disinfect the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate or apply the drug "Maxim".
  Often, gardeners are interested in when to get gladioli after winter storage. It will depend on when they are planted in the flowerbed. If you decide to place the bulbs in spacious pots, this will allow for planting earlier than usual: in good weather - at the end of April.
  To apply the dry forcing method, you need to take a paper box from under the eggs and place the bulbs in the bottom of the cell down. Soil and water will not be required. Do it at the end of March. The procedure goes from 3 weeks to a month. At this time, you will have to control it so that the sprout looks strictly vertically, otherwise the escape curve will grow. Florist answered questions from readers
  Anna Petrovna Blazhko, Minsk
  
  Reply
Polina P
06/05/2019 (07:19) #

No matter how hard I try, I never manage to grow tall gladioli. Not only short stems are produced, but also small flowers. Tell us what to do,
to admire truly beautiful gladioli?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  06/05/2019 (07:19) #
  
  To make gladioli impressive, there are many rules to follow. First, as early as March, bulbs should be taken out of storage, freed from scales and laid out in a bright place.
  
  Secondly, since gladioli are very fond of light and heat and do not tolerate strong gusts of wind, they should be planted in a sunny and protected place.
  Thirdly, on the prepared bed of the onion, you need to deepen it with 10 cm, having previously put some sand on the bottom of the hole. After that, the place prepared for planting is poured abundantly with water, the bulb is placed in the dirt, and the ground mixed with sand is poured on top. No dressings do not need!
  Leave the planting alone until the first sprouts appear. This is a signal that you need to water the plants well - just like when planting, so that the earth turns into "liquid porridge." Then you need to water the flowers only after the soil has dried.
  After watering, it is imperative to loosen the ground, weed weeds and mulch the soil. Plant bulbs need at a distance of at least 20 cm from each other. And in order to prolong flowering, the bulbs should be planted in several stages at intervals of a week. And since gladiolus flowers are fragile and unstable, they also need props.
  It should be noted that the best place to buy gladiolus bulbs are specialty stores. When purchasing planting material, ask the seller, where he brought.
  If you do not live in a region with a warm climate, then you should not take planting material grown there - it is unlikely to adapt to your latitudes. It is also worth saying that the gladioli of the Dutch selection can please you no more than one season. So is it worth it to splurge on such a fleeting beauty?
  
  Reply
Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
08/01/2019 (19:36) #

How can you rejuvenate gladiolus bulbs?
Rimma Yakovlevna

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  08/01/2019 (19:36) #
  
  This can be done in several ways.
  The first. It is necessary to remove the old scales from the bulbs, cut them vertically, taking into account the number of sleeping eyes, sprinkle the cuts with ashes or smear them with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then let them dry for a while. After this procedure, you can plant future gladioli on a previously prepared permanent place. Prepare it like this: make grooves, pour sand on the bottom, lay out the prepared onions, then sprinkle them with sand, and above them with earth. second. In order not to damage the sleeping eyes, you need to carefully clean the bulbs of old scales and cut horizontally in half. Then immediately plant the halves.
  
  Slices can not handle anything.
  As practice shows, thanks to the first method, you can get several gladiolus divisions at once, which in the future will give children. But their age will be short-lived - they will bloom for only 2-3 years, and then grow old.
  The second method may please longer. Rejuvenated bulbs will bloom next year, and so will be over the years 5. And be sure to give the kids for the next rejuvenation, which will surprise with their power. Only kids will not bloom right away. We'll have to wait.
  
  Reply
Sofya GUSEVA
18/10/2018 (16:35) #

Gladiolus: only young and healthy

Skotopa September to mid-October digging gladioli.
Corms ripen through 30-40 days after flowering plants. I work in dry weather, having checked in advance with the recommendations of the lunar calendar. In order not to damage the gladioli, I dig up the ground deeper than the landings are located.
Further scheme is as follows.

I dug out corms and break out a flower stalk with leaves, leaving them for a few hours in the air to dry.
I clean the old roots, remove the sick and damaged parts. It is better to tear off the roots, and not to cut them off so that the stumps do not rot. I take away for storage 2-3-summer plants. Corms older than five years old are thrown away: they grow worse, are weaker, and diseases are more likely to cling to them.
My bulbs in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, dried and placed in boxes, which I put in a warm room.

I dry out another month. Gladioli are better kept with children, so I separate them in the spring before planting.
Then lay out in a single layer in small cardboard boxes for varieties and colors. I keep at home in a dark cool place.

Reply
Olesya PRIVALOVA, Krasnodar
28/03/2018 (12:39) #

To tall gladiolus grew evenly, they should be tied to the support.

Reply
T. Mikheeva, Obninsk
07/03/2018 (10:06) #

I mixed bulbs of gladioli of different colors. Can you determine the color of the inflorescences in appearance and color of the bulb?

Reply
- OOO "Sad"
  07/03/2018 (10:07) #
  
  The color of corms of gladioli varies from white to black and cherry. There is no strict relationship between the color of flowers and corms. But, as a rule, in varieties with light flowers, corms are also light. In appearance, one can assume the age of the bulb: young plants have bulbous-rounded forms, older ones are flatter. Although the size and shape of the corms depend on the conditions of germination. The size of the bulb affects the growth and development of the plant - a larger shoot forms a larger shoot with large inflorescences and flowers, such plants bloom earlier.
  
  Reply
Elena KIRYASHINA, Ulyanovsk
05/07/2017 (18:09) #

Gladiolus is the real king among the flowers. I love him for their favor and variety of colors. To grow beautiful flowers with long peduncles, I have a few secrets.
A month before planting (in early April) I take out bulbs from the refrigerator and clean them from scales. If the corms have any damage, then cut the affected area to a healthy tissue and place the cut with grease. I spread the bulbs in one layer sprouts up in the box and leave at room temperature for the appearance of the sprout.
I plant bulbs in early May on a sunny place. In the soil I add 1 tbsp. l urea, a handful of wood ash, 1 tbsp. l double superphosphate per 1 sq. km. m. I dig and a little tamp the back with a rake. Before planting the bulbs, soak for half an hour in a fungicide solution, then dry and plant. The distance between the bulbs in the row and between the rows is 15-25 cm, depending on the size of the bulbs. The larger the bulb, the greater the distance. Planting depth - 10-15 cm. It is convenient to make holes when planting with a special device for planting onions.

Gladiolus love copious watering (but do not allow stagnation of water on the bed) and loosening the soil. Also, I constantly weed the beds with flowers, as weeds can become a source of fungal diseases.

I feed gladiolus thrice. When 2-3 leaves grow, I pour them with a solution of urea (2 st.l for 10 L of water). 2-th top dressing I spend when
a peduncle will appear (1,5 tbsp. l. nitrophoski per 10 l of water). 3rd feeding - after flowering of gladioli, so that the bulbs are better stored (1 tbsp. Of ground superphosphate, 2 tbsp. Of potassium sulfate and 5 g of potassium permanganate I dilute in 10 liters of water and water).

I dig up the bulbs at the end of September in dry weather. I cut off the stems, leaving a stump a few centimeters. I dry it a month and put it in a tissue bag and store it in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment.

Reply
Olga Persunova, Ramenskoye, Moscow region.
12/12/2016 (11:02) #

The second half of May, when the soil becomes warm, the optimum time for planting corms of gladiolus
Large bulbs are planted on light soil to a depth of 12 cm, on clay soil - not deeper than 6-8 cm (counting from the bottom). Corms of the second (diameter 2,5-3,1 cm} and third (diameter 1,5-2,4 cm) parsing to a depth of 4-6 cm.
position in rows it is more convenient to place them across the ridge with a row spacing of 20-25 cm. and between plants 10 cm for medium-sized varieties and up to 20 cm for varieties with large flowers and corms.

Reply
Vera Ilyina Kaluga
14/11/2016 (17:33) #

The best neighbors for gladiolus
I noticed that the gladiolus are much less sick and are affected by thrips if they pick up good neighbors, such as marigolds, calendula, nasturtium and even garlic.
Marigolds, like gladioli, love fertile soil and are very photophilous. At the end of May, I plant their seedlings along the plantations of gladioli. Less than a month later, they begin to blossom, forming a bright border (I select low-growing varieties), which does not lose its decorative qualities until the frosts.
No less useful and nasturtium with calendula. They, like the marigolds, also have phytoncidal properties, repel soil pests, nematodes and disinfect the soil on which they grow.
I sow them directly into the soil with seeds.
Another good neighbor for gladioli is garlic. Planting his teeth in the winter, at the same time as autumn, I am preparing a place nearby for gladioli. I dilute the soil with sand and humus. In the summer I feed them with ash. We harvest flowers and bulbs, always happy.

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Alla Vladimirovna Pavlova, Rybinsk. Yaroslavl region
06/11/2016 (16:24) #

Gladiolus - a difficult culture. Consider the most common mistakes made by inexperienced growers, and the problems that arise when growing them.

Improper selection of planting material: - if the corms are old or small, flowering may not occur; - the purchase of foreign planting material that is not adapted to the existing climatic conditions, for example, even from the same Holland, may result in the plants blooming in the first year, but in the second or third year they will get used to the new conditions and are unlikely to please flowering. Wrong landing site choice: - if you have been planting gladiolus in the same place for more than a year, the plants may become sick, and it is also worse to bloom or not to bloom at all; - planting in the shade threatens that gladioli if blooming, much later, and varieties of medium and late flowering are unlikely to bloom at all; - Landing in poorly ventilated areas many times increases the risk of developing fungal diseases.

Wrong landing:

-If both adults and young corms are planted together, the former will oppress the latter. It is better to plant them indiscriminately; - too deep planting of bulbs. Correct, not interfering with flowering, is equal to three bulb diameters. Unfavorable weather conditions: - if the summer is too hot and dry, be sure to water the plants at least once a week. A lack of moisture will adversely affect flowering. If the heat has been standing for a long time, water them every night. - Wrong agricultural technology: - poorly affects flowering, and the general development of plants lacks nutrients. If your soil is light and poor, it is advisable to pamper them not only with root, but also with foliar top dressing; - Do not forget about loosening the soil, without this, corms can not bloom; - mulch planting - this is one good; - It is very important to cut the flowers correctly. Be sure to leave at least four leaves on the plant. Otherwise, no nutrient outflow occurs and a weak corm replacement is formed. Pests: - if corms are damaged by wireworms, do not expect flowering from such plants; - The real scourge of gladioli - thrips imported with imported planting material. Especially they harm corms during the winter dormancy period, significantly weakening them.

Reply
Yulianna PULENKOVA, Krasnodar Territory
22/10/2016 (18:58) #

Gladiolus in stockings
When I plant cleaned corms gladioli on a bed, always carefully examine them.
If I notice the slightest signs of disease, I immediately reject it. Most often gladioli suffer from fusariosis, or dry rot.
My experience has shown that the biological method of struggle is effective against fusariosis.
3 kg of garlic I skip through the meat grinder and, mixing the gruel with 10 l of cold water, I insist at least 3 h. I wash the corms together with the babies into the old nylon stockings and put it into 2-3 seconds into this infusion. Then I drain the liquid and hang my stockings with gladioli in the shade to dry. The treatment is always done with gloves, as the solution turns out to be vigorous, so you can burn your hands.

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Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
14/08/2016 (19:38) #

Teach me, please, how to feed gladiolus?
Alesya D. SHITIK

Reply
- Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
  14/08/2016 (19:38) #
  
  These flowers during the growing season must be fed three times. The first - after the appearance of 3-4 leaves with full mineral fertilizer, the second time - in the phase of 5-6 leaves with the same composition, and the third dressing is given during budding only with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
  It is important to know that for gladioli dangerous excess nitrogen is dangerous, it can lead to poor ripening of corms and their death during winter storage.
  
  Reply
Irina NOVOSELOVA, Dolgoprudny
31/07/2016 (18:27) #

At the beginning of the month, I feed gladioli. I make the extract of superphosphate (it is poorly soluble in water): 200 g superphosphate (double - 100 g) pour 1 l of hot water and leave for an hour, stirring constantly. Then 0,2 l extracts I dilute in 10 l of water, add potassium sulfate (30 g) and water the flowers.

Reply
Leonid KHANBEKOV, the city of Zelenograd
16/07/2016 (17:08) #

Gladiolus blossom longer!
Twice a month for an interval of 2 weeks, I feed (water) gladioli with solutions of superphosphate (25 g per 10 L of water) and potassium sulfate (15 g per 10 L of water). They then bloom for a long time.

Reply
Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
21/05/2016 (17:45) #

Gladiolus curves. I kept my gladioli in the vestibule, in a box. Preserved well, but here sprouts germinated somewhere to the side. How to plant such bulbs. Straighten sprouts or not?

Reply
- Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
  21/05/2016 (17:46) #
  
  When storing gladioli, many make the mistake of piling the bulbs in a box somehow. As a result, some bulbs lie on their sides or generally upside down. When sprouts begin to grow, they stretch upward, and in relation to the bulb look somewhere in the side.
  If you plant such bulbs as expected - roots down, then there will be no good peduncle. The stalks of gladioli are reluctant to change position and do not straighten. Therefore, bulbs with “crooked” sprouts are planted so that the sprout is upright. Put the bulb on its side, the roots will grow in the right direction.
  The depth of embedding the bulbs 10-15 cm, depending on the size of the bulb. With a shallow landing, the bulb will turn out of the ground in a strong wind.
  For the future: store gladioli, laying bulbs with buds up. Then they will germinate correctly and the shoots will be vertical.
  
  Reply
Raisa CHERMANENKO, city of Kramatorsk
22/04/2016 (18:32) #

As soon as the soil warms up well, I plant gladioli. In advance I bring into the ground 60-80 g nitrofoski on 1 sq.m. When planting corms I focus on their size: large (2 cm in diameter) send to a depth of 5-10 cm, for medium (diameter - from 1 to 3 cm) depth 4-7 cm, "trifle" (with a diameter of about 1 cm ) I plant on depth 3-5 see the Distance between corms (as well as between rows) - on the average 15-20 see.

Reply
Rafis
10/04/2016 (14:47) #

Volumetric and in many respects useful material, but I do not recommend to clean it early from the chalice
Bulbs gladiolusov.Obychno preparing bulbs for planting is not earlier
three weeks before planting.

Reply

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