Diseases of carrots and other celery roots
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Diseases of carrots, parsley parsnips and celery
All the vegetables from the Celery family (ie carrots, parsnips, celery, parsley, fennel and dill) have common diseases that manifest themselves at different stages of plant growth.
The main diseases are caused by fungi (powdery mildew of leaves, septoriosis of leaves, phomosis, cercosporosis, white, gray and black rot of root crops), less often bacteria and very rarely viral diseases and nematodes.
The villager should take into account the fact that many diseases of root crops arise due to violations of cultivation technology and especially the storage of the crop.
Diseases of leaves
Powdery mildew (Erysiphe umbelliferarum).
It affects only the leaves on which a white mealy plaque with barely noticeable black dotted fruiting bodies forms. If for carrots and parsnips this white coating on the leaves does not reduce the marketability of root crops, then for marketable products of leaves of parsley, celery and dill this is a real disaster. Harmfulness rises in dry and hot years. With seeds it is not transferred, and spores are transferred from wild umbelliferous, which are many around the garden and dachas. Sulfur preparations, which are usually used against powdery mildew, are not recommended for use on dietary aromatic leaves. The most effective is maintaining a high relative humidity of the air by finely dispersing the water.
Septoria leaf (Septoria sp).
The most dangerous are the species that spread on the leaves of parsley, dill and celery. The commercial appearance of leaves from septoriosis can suddenly deteriorate. Often the primary source of infection is an infection brought with seeds. Suddenly, dirty ocher or whitish spots appear on the leaves. It gives the impression of burns from boiling water.
Reference by topic: Carrot fly (photo) - how to fight
Sprouting diseases
The so-called black leg can be provoked by a bacterium Erwinia phytophthora, also fungus alternative (Altemaria radidna). The source of the primary infection is plant residues and often non-etched seeds. The disease is aggravated by overmoistening and compaction of the upper soil layer. Then the root neck becomes black. Plants lie down and die. Sometimes the disease can later cause yellowing, wilting and shrinkage of the leaves of the entire rosette.
Diseases of root vegetables
They are very insidious. Usually the first symptoms, which are not always noticeable in the garden, do not pay attention. During storage, the infection spreads very quickly, which contributes to large losses during storage. All the rot of root crops is called the color of spore-bearing of fungi on affected root crops, and they are: black rot, or alternaria (Altemaria radicina), white rot (Sclerotinia sderotiorum), gray rot (Botrytis dneraha), brown rot, or phomosis (Phoma rostrupii), gray mold fungus (fungi of the genus Penidlliumsp.). If the mycelium of the fungus is not visible, and the root crops are covered with watery spots, then this wet bacterial rot (bacterium Erwinia sp.). Whatever the rot, it is brought to the vault from the garden with healthy-looking roots. It begins to develop in any wound on the surface of root crops.
Physiological diseases
These diseases are caused by a deficiency or excess of water. With a lack of moisture, root crops shrink, become hard and tasteless. While in excess - watery and susceptible to various rot. A very dangerous sudden increase in soil moisture after prolonged drought. This usually happens after heavy rain or an irregular watering schedule with long interruptions. Then the root crops crack and begin to quickly rot.
Diseases caused by nematodes and other pests
Nematodes are round microscopic worms, although they belong to the animal world, but their damage in the form of tumors is attributed to diseases. The danger of these parasitic worms is often manifested in old gardens where they do not adhere to any rules for the alternation of vegetable plants. Damage to root aphids is invisible, but they increase physiological drought. Root crops become hard and tasteless.
Many root rotations originate after damage by a carrot fly. These subtle damage become a gateway for the deep penetration of fungi and bacteria that cause rot in storage.
Methods of harm reduction
All summer residents and truck farmers unanimously assert that it's relatively easy to grow root crops, but not everyone can save them in an excellent form before the new harvest. To do this, it is necessary to carry out a complex of agronomic measures aimed primarily against diseases.
Usually the beginning of success lies in the selection of a variety and healthy seeds.
If parsnip, celery and parsley have few varieties and hybrids, and you don’t have to choose especially, then carrots have more than a hundred. Moreover, the speed of updating the assortment is very high. The choice of variety or hybrid should begin with an accurate knowledge of the soil. If varieties with any length of root crops are suitable for light soils (sandy loam and loamy), then for clay heavy soils, one should pay attention to the assortment with short root crops from the santotypes of Shantene, Teranda, Amsterdam, Nantes and Karotel. As for varietal resistance to diseases, there are practically no immune varieties and hybrids: there are many diseases, the conditions change from year to year, and it is not always possible to fulfill all the requirements for growing and storage.
Buying seeds, pay attention to their treatment with fungicides, for example, tyram (usually it is indicated on the packages), which will guarantee the phytosanitary purity of the seed. If the seeds are not processed, then you can do it yourself. In the recent past, for all cases of seed preparation, 0,5-1.0% solution of potassium permanganate can be used at exposure of 20 min., Now this drug is banned for free disposal because of the spread of drug addiction.
In this regard, it is possible to successfully use an affordable pharmacy 3% hydrogen peroxide solution, in which the seeds are immersed for 20-30 minutes on the eve of sowing. Washed, dried and sown. An excellent effect is obtained by treating the seeds for 20 minutes. in a chlorine solution of "White" (the drug is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5), followed by their washing.
When growing root crops, attention is drawn to the inadmissibility of using increased doses of nitrogen fertilizers. The use of potash fertilizers increases field resistance to all pathogens. Phosphoric fertilizers also help. It is very important to uniformly moisten the crops. An important preventive agricultural method (and the simplest and most affordable for every gardener) is the observance of the proper fruit-change of vegetable plants in the beds.
Interestingly, precursors such as legumes and cucurbits are the primary source of root-scaping sclerotinia. Gray rot carry strawberries, sunflower and all kinds of cabbage. Especially very dangerous is the placement after other plants from the Celery family. After harvesting, it is better not to leave any plant residues on the bed, but to use it for obtaining humus and then keeping it for 2-3 year. As for root crops with signs of nematodes, they should be burned, which will protect the garden from subsequent spreading. Nematodes and other pests are not transmitted by seeds.
Harvesting root crops is a very crucial moment on which their safety will depend. Do not allow blows, breaks and even scratches. It is through them that the infection penetrates the root crops. Cleaning is completed before the onset of constant frost.
Particular attention is paid to the preparation of storage space, because usually we store in the same basement, where from year to year an infection that expects a new crop accumulates. For the prevention of all surfaces whiten. There. where there are no metal structures, you can apply a very effective disinfection by burning sulfur powder (up to 80 g / m3). For aerosol treatment of premises use 40% formalin (up to 40ml / m2).
Ways of storing the crop of root crops from the family Celery are many: trenches, cellars, boxes, film bags, in sand, washed or unwashed. But in any case, the roots are stored at a temperature from 0 to + 2 * C and relative air humidity 90-95%.
For better storage, good results show dusting of root crops with wood ash and lime powder. Naturally, these storage requirements are the most difficult to fulfill at home, but an integrated approach to protecting against disease will enable not only to grow, but also to save the crop carrots, parsnips, celery and parsley.
See also: Growing carrots - care for proven varieties
What carrots and other celery are sick with - photo and description
© Author: Z. Sych, doctor S.-kh. sciences, professor
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My carrots often come out with green tops. Does this mean that solanine accumulates in it, like in potatoes? Do I need to cut off these unwanted parts of the root vegetable or can they still be eaten without harm to health?
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The carrot tops were peeking out of the ground, so they turned green under the influence of the sun's rays. Usually the root crop is exposed after rains or watering, when the soil sags. A green layer of tissue can also appear inside the root crop when the leaves do not provide enough shade and bright rays penetrate through the lumps of earth. To prevent this from happening, you need to mulch the beds and try not to damage the vegetables when weeding and loosening.
Chlorophyll gives carrots their green color. The same thing happens with potato tubers turning green in the sun, but at the same time they also produce a poisonous plant glycoside, solanine, which in a certain amount can cause poisoning of the body. Many people think that it is this that gives the tubers their green color, but in fact it is the same pigment chlorophyll that colors them, since solanine is colorless. It is found in all nightshades, but only causes problems in potatoes when too much of it accumulates.
That’s why carrots that turn green are not harmful, but their taste deteriorates and becomes bitter. “Improperly colored fragments of the root crop are usually cut off.
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I found that carrot roots grow thin and covered with black spots. It's a disease? How to prevent it next year?
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- Most likely, carrots are affected by brown rot (phoma). Its first signs are spots, as well as transverse stripes on root crops. The next stage will appear already during storage - then pronounced dark spots, ulcers and white rot will form on the surface of the root crops. If the root crop is cut, a soft and loose tissue will be visible.
Nothing can be done this year, but so that the disease does not return in the future, treat the seeds before sowing, change the place where carrots are grown, and, as an ideal option, before sowing carrots, grow green manure in this area: mustard, rye, oats or rapeseed (they perfectly heal the soil). In addition, thin out crops in a timely manner. Water without flooding the plants and preventing the soil from drying out. Do not apply excessive doses of nitrogen fertilizers: carrots love phosphorus and potash more.
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Is it possible to eat carrots in which they cut out a place affected by white rot?
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Carrots, affected by white rot, it is better not to use for food.
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I appeal to you for help, dear summer residents. I got a worm in my carrots - white, thin. They said that this is a carrot fly - they say, I sow early. It began to sow on the end of May - the beginning of June, and almost the entire crop is spoiled anyway. This year, the worms also lived in strawberries, which were on the ground, simply stuck on the bottom and crawled inside. In the spring there is no desire even to sow carrots.
I was prompted here by a remedy: 1 art. l. kerosene for 10 l of water. But can this be applied? And when to water this solution: during the sowing in the furrow or when it will rise?
Nina
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In the beginning and the middle of May I plant celery seedlings: a part on a separate bed, and a part is point-wise throughout the site, tk. the scent of celery repels pests. Necessarily 3-4 plants I plant on a garden bed to tomatoes, on 4-5 - to cabbage. Care for the celery is simple: I loosen the soil, weed, I water.