Anthracnose and purple raspberry spotting - how to fight
Contents ✓
Purple is a symptom of the disease.
Among the numerous diseases of raspberries the most significant harm is caused by anthracnose and purple spotting.
Anthracnosis of raspberry
This disease is ubiquitous and is one of the most common and harmful. It affects leaves, petioles, shoots and fruits of raspberries, which leads to a decrease in yield and death of fruit brushes with many unripe berries. The causative agent remains on the affected raspberry shoots for a year and serves as a source of spring resumption of the disease.
A characteristic sign of the disease is the appearance of small purple spots on substitution shoots and root offspring that have just emerged from the soil. Subsequently, the spots grow, deepen into the tissue of the cortex and become gray with purple bordering. With a strong development of the disease on the shoots, ulcers on the tissue and its cracking are observed.
On the leaves, the spots are initially small, rounded, grayish with a purple fringing, then they become brown, the tissue dies off, and holes are formed. The fungus infects the bones of the berries, which, among the brightly colored flesh, are distinguished by gray islets. Mass development of anthracnose reaches in July-August. The causative agent winters on plant remains.
Purple raspberry spot
Almost the same in prevalence is purple spotting. This bopesis is found in all areas of cultivation and can completely destroy the crop, and in some years and plantations of raspberries. The mushroom hibernates on the bark of the raspberry stalks at the lesion sites.
A characteristic sign of the disease is violet-brown blurry spots on young annual shoots near the leaf attachment sites. The first signs of damage appear at the end of June. Violet, then violet-brown, blurry spots appear on the stems, especially in its lower parts. Later they appear on and around the axillary kidneys. Growing, the spots merge into larger “islands”, covering a significant part of the stem. The wood in the affected areas turns brown and dies. Petioles of leaves in affected shoots dry out, leaves fall off. With a severe degree of disease, the entire stem dries out. Affected kidneys turn black. Blurry necrotic dark spots appear on leaf blades. As a result, the shoots are easily wrinkled. Small dry berries grow on the affected plants.
The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are created with high humidity.
See also: Raspberry in spring - care and pest control in raspberry
How to deal with raspberry anthracnose and purple spotting
Measures to combat these diseases are similar. After harvesting, an effective measure is the cutting and destruction of the affected stems, preventing a strong thickening of plantations. Good results in reducing the development of diseases were obtained when processing raspberries in spring, before budding, 7% solution of urea (700 g per 10 L of water). Further, in addition to rooting, two more sprayings are carried out with an 0,5% solution of urea (50 g per 10 L of water) at the beginning of the growing season and during the budding period.
Of the chemicals, copper-containing substances are most suitable, in particular, Azofos (100 ml per 10 liters of water). It is advisable to carry out three treatments: in the phase of extension and separation of the buds, as well as immediately after flowering and after harvesting.
Purple raspberry spotting - expert advice
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
SYNONYMS OF DISEASE: didymella, burn of raspberry shoots
DESCRIPTION OF DISEASE: On annual shoots in leaf axils in early July, purple blurry spots develop. The sick plant is dying.
Causative agent: Didymella applanata mushroom. Thanks to the wintering stage, sporulation begins already in the middle of spring. The fungus actively develops at high humidity and temperature + 15 ... + 20 ° С. The incubation period is about 25 days.
The disease is affected by weakened plants, damaged by pests, especially stem gall midges, old thickened plantations, planting on heavy soils with excessive nitrogen content, close groundwater occurrence.
First, purple or reddish-purple blurry spots appear on annual shoots under the attachment of leaf petioles. They grow rapidly and ring stems. Affected areas of the cortex turn brown, crack. In spring, the middle of brown spots on overwintered diseased shoots brightens, black dots appear on it - fungal peaks. Further damage already covers the kidneys, the tops of the leaves and the leaf plates themselves. Affected kidneys do not bloom or weak lateral branches form from them. The bark in the affected areas is cracked, the shoots dry out and die before the fruit ripens. By damp autumn, spores infect new young shoots.
Preventive measures
In early spring, before budding, the treatment is carried out with copper-containing fungicides: “Abiga-Peak”, “Oksikhom”, “Skor”, “Khom”, Bordeaux 1% mixture or “Topaz” preparation. Re-process with the growth of young shoots, at the beginning of flowering and after harvesting.
The main secret to the success of healthy raspberries is the regular destruction of plant debris, damaged shoots, cleanliness and sparseness of plantings. Drain and burn all plant debris in a timely manner, including fallen leaves. Do not lay them in compost; mushroom spores can germinate within two years. Remove spruce in time, do not let raspberries creep.
Do not be afraid to cut excess on the raspberry! Immediately after harvesting, cut off all the fruiting branches to the base, leaving no stumps, and burn. You do not need to leave them until the beginning of autumn work, and even more so - until spring.
These branches are no longer needed by the plant (the raspberry shoot has a lifespan of 2 years), they obscure the young shoots and impede their growth.
- Balanced fertilizing, mulching of plants is necessary. Fall in the dig in the phosphate-potassium fertilizer.
- For planting raspberries, choose a sunny and elevated place, do not grow this crop in lowlands and in places with high humidity.
- Choose modern, disease resistant varieties (for example, Meteor, Balm, Kirzhan, Skromnitsa, Tarusa).
- In the beginning of the summer dig up healthy shoots with root rudiments and transplant them to a new place. So for the season will grow a new raspberries.
Measures of active struggle
If the plantation is severely damaged, do not wait for the harvest, donate it and start treatment immediately.
TECHNOLOGY:
1. Treat the plants with a tank mixture: Fitolavin 0,2% + Fundazol 0,2%.
2. After 7 days, spray on the leaves with a mixture of “BTU Biocomplex” + prilator “Liposam”.
3. After 14 days, shed planting under the root with the mixture: Fitolavin 0,2% + Fundazol 0,2%.
4. After 7 days, add “BTU Biocomplex” to the root.
5. After 14 days, treat the plantation with a Bordeaux mixture of 1%.
6. In the autumn, after falling leaves, treat the shoots with Farmayod 3%.
Bushes affected by more than half can no longer be cured, they need to be uprooted and burned. Spill the vacated spot with Farmayod, wetting the soil to a depth of 15 cm. Do not plant raspberries in this place for 5 years.
© Author: E. Brazhnik
© Author: Alexander Vladimirovich GORNY, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
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the raspberry is drying?
The causes of yellowing and drying of leaves in raspberries are many. It can be both a disease and a lack of trace elements. To navigate what's what, you need to know about the main signs of both.
In the category of frequently occurring incurable incurable bush disease-root cancer. You can determine it by the characteristic swelling on the roots of the plant, the loss of taste in berries and the dwarf growth of new shoots. Since such raspberries can not be cured, the bush remains only to be uprooted and burned.
The second known disease, in which the leaf turns yellow and only veins remain green, is called chlorosis. This is a viral disease, you can fight it
by loosening the soil and top dressing - once every 1 years it is necessary to mulch raspberries with peat and compost, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.
As for micronutrients, raspberries often lack boron, which causes the leaves to dry and curl. In this case, in early summer, the soil around the bush should be well loosened and poured with a solution of boric acid (5 g per 10 L of water).
About the lack of potassium can "tell" the leaves that the raspberries will curl down. From potassium starvation, rescue will be saved by ashes. It is better to pour water and leave for a while. And then carefully fertilize the infusion loosened around the bush earth.
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Here already 17 summer me a site in Leningrad region. The last two or three years, some kind of misfortune: disappearing raspberries. In June, two-year-old shoots begin to turn yellow. The amount and size of berries this yellowing does not affect. I rummaged through the Internet and found two diseases leading to yellowing of the leaves.
D Jaundice raspberry, yellow mosaic, or chlorosis infectious is one and the same viral disease. Signs are observed from the beginning of the growing season: leaves turn yellow, both on annual and biennial shoots. And I get yellow only at two-year-olds.
B Non-infectious chlorosis is a physiological disease associated with soil and climatic conditions. With it, yellowing of the leaves, ends of shoots, sepals and other parts of the plant occurs. The leaves on the shoots are smaller than healthy by about 30%. But the affected shoots are leafy thicker than healthy ones. The flower brush is shortened, the flowers are small and yellowed. The berries are small, dry, with poor taste. Often the berries dry out prematurely, the bush becomes shorter and very thickened. And I have large leaves, shoots of normal size, lots of berries, normal size and not dry.
Result: The Internet has not given a response. Perhaps your experience, dear gardeners, will tell me why my raspberries are already beginning to fall in autumn for the leaves, and how to make sure that the Malinka sprouts the entire vegetative period?