How do phloxes multiply?

The name of this unusually decorative delicate flower is translated from Greek as “flame”.

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Slender stems of phlox, crowned with fragrant foam inflorescences, decorate our sites, making them bright and spectacular.

Purple, cherry, lilac, blue, lilac, white - their color palette is incredibly wide. They are extremely diverse: in the world there are about 50 species of these plants. But the Russians liked the phlox paniculata.

We can say that it is a must have of any garden collection, and every year new varieties appear, so in terms of selection of this species we are ahead of the rest. Phlox is lovingly called a strainer - it is very reminiscent of its vivid coloring of the multicolor subtlest petals. And if you want your flower garden to have many varieties of this handsome man, then now is the best time for cuttings.

Phlox is usually cut in order to propagate favorite varieties or to have copies for gifts to friends and neighbors on hand. Indeed, a rare guest of the garden in the flowering season of phloxes will not ask for a “shoot as a gift”. Sharing a bush is not always convenient, in addition, it injures the plant.

Therefore, if phloxes are checked in time, there will be something to share in the fall. Rooting cuttings in the open ground or in cold greenhouses and greenhouses is possible from late May to mid-summer, but it is best until the end of June. So that the leaves do not fade, do everything in one step: cut and planted. And the sooner you place the cuttings in the ground, the more likely that phlox will bloom by fall. How to multiply them? 1 - On cuttings it is better to take the middle, non-lignified part of the shoot from a healthy plant.

2. Cut the shoot into segments with two internodes (leaf attachment points). The lower cut should be done under the lower node, the upper - 0,5 cm above the upper node.

3. Leaf blades from the lower node, remove, keeping the kidneys, which are in the axillary leaf, and on the top cut in half.

4. Carefully dip the shank into the soil until the top knot.

5. Next to it, stick a diving peg into the ground and press the ground against the handle.

6. As a rule, cuttings plant a pope

river rows, leaving 8-10 cm between the rows and 5-6 cm between the cuttings in the row.

7. After planting, pritenyayte cuttings until they do not give sprouts. The first week, water the planting with warm water up to 5 once a day, then as needed. After 3-4 weeks after planting the cuttings will take root, and in the axils of the leaves of the upper node one or two shoots are formed.

Reproduction of phlox - photo

BRIEFLY ABOUT DIFFERENT FLOXES

And at the end of our story, briefly about how diverse varieties of phlox paniculate.

Archangel. White flower 4 cm, height 120 cm, average flowering period (from the end of July to the middle of August).

Strawberry souffle. Flower 3,5 cm, height 110 cm, average flowering period. Buds are so beautiful that they can not flourish.

Forget-me-nots. Flower 4,3 cm, height 70 cm, medium-term. Purple in the afternoon, bright blue at dusk.

Odile. Red flower 3,5 cm, height 100 cm, average flowering period. Unlike many other red varieties does not burn out in the sun.

Butonik. Height 60-70 cm, average flowering time. This phlox is surprising in that its buds are not opened - for this he got his name.

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Dacha with their own hands > Flowers - planting and care > Phloxes > Reproduction of phloxes (detailed photo)

2 Review (s)

Maria Shoikova, Cuban
15/08/2023 (15:12) #

Is it possible to divide the old phlox paniculata bush at the end of summer

- OOO "Sad"
  15/08/2023 (15:13) #
  
  - Quite often I divide and transplant perennials in August, by winter they have time to take root, and already next season new interesting compositions appear in the garden. The main contenders for division are phlox, primrose, nivyanik, sage and other plants that bloom by the end of summer.
  
  Many flower growers argue that first a perennial bush must be dug up. I suggest - do not dig up, but carefully cut the rhizome with a garden scoop or shovel (if the curtain is large), separating the necessary part. Next, dig this division from all sides and raise it along with the soil, trying to injure the roots as little as possible. After that, I plant a new plant in a previously prepared hole, leaving the root collar at the same level. To the bush remaining in the soil, I pour organic matter into the pit (well-rotted manure or compost), tamp it down, adding garden soil from above into the voids, and spill it abundantly.