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9 Review (s)

  1. Irina

    Why do some people write carrots and beets are good neighbors, others p, the house is bad. Who to believe?

    Reply
  2. Mira Yurievna

    In plants, often the strongest help the weaker. I was convinced of this by using the advice that my friend gave me. I didn’t really believe her - it’s not enough to conduct an experiment.

    It consisted in the fact that I sowed two rows of sunflower seeds every 60 see. And when the seedlings appeared, it was time to plant tomato seedlings in the open ground.
    So, I made the holes between the grown sunflowers. Hemp twine was attached to their stalks in two rows, it turned out a tapestry, to which she tied up the bushes of tomatoes.
    The plants got on well with each other and gave good yields.

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  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    ABOUT COMPATIBILITY

    For vegetables to grow better, I would recommend planting plants based on their compatibility.
    For example, cabbage is bad with tomatoes and beans, but good with onions, celery, potatoes, dill and salad. You can’t get along with cucumbers with potatoes, and tomatoes with fennel. But the tomatoes will be happy planted next to asparagus, beans and greens. Potatoes do not grow near tomatoes and pumpkins. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic. Carrots get along with everyone, although I will sow it next to onions, potatoes, dill and lettuce to protect against a carrot fly. You can’t get along with cucumbers with potatoes, and tomatoes with fennel. But the tomatoes will be happy planted next to asparagus, beans and greens. Potatoes do not grow near tomatoes and pumpkins. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic. Carrots get along with everyone, although I will sow it next to onions to protect against a carrot fly.

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  4. Tatiana Mikhailovna Fedorova

    Are there really vegetables that are "friendly" and grow together perfectly? I also heard something about useful plants for the soil.

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    • OOO "Sad"

      Indeed, there are plants that get along well with each other. So, for example, amaranth and cumin are the most friendly, they well influence the growth and development of very many plants, as they improve the physical properties of the soil. Almost with any cultures, soybeans work together perfectly. In the basil, cucumber grass, tomatoes and spinach there is a physiologically active substance - saponin, which promotes intensive growth and development of other plants.
      We should not forget about the phytoncidal properties of garden crops that are capable of fighting the pathogens of late blight, as well as the vascular bacteriosis of cabbage. Such properties are possessed with garlic, onions, beets, carrots, lettuce, parsley, dill, and also pumpkin and cucumber.
      From Colorado beetle, oddly enough, will help beans. And next to the potatoes it is useful to plant horseradish - it helps to fight with various pathogens,
      roots diseases. But the celery attracts some pests, for example butterflies of cabbages, and aubergine - a Colorado beetle.

      Reply
  5. Igor DUNICHEV, city of Kaluga

    Vegetable tradeoffs
    We are always taught: do not plant tomatoes and cucumbers together. And this
    is fair. After all, the optimal parameters of humidity and average daily temperatures for them vary greatly. But apart from these crops, there are many more that also require growing under cover. A separate greenhouse for each plant can not be built, which means that it is necessary to look for compromises, planting them together.
    My experience shows that in one greenhouse you can grow more than a dozen different crops and get a decent harvest at the same time. It is very important to think over which plants will be located on the neighboring beds. Take into account the places of maximum ventilation due to open doors, areas where additional moisture will flow during rains
    (plants that are located along the wall, their roots are taken to the street). Dlinnostebelnye vines need to be planted at the ends with further removal of the aboveground part of plants in the open ground. It is necessary to calculate the terms of vegetation, so that after harvesting the earlier, later cultures occupy their area.
    I noticed that cucumbers, even with low humidity in the tomato greenhouse, produce excellent yields of up to 13 kg per plant. The problem was only in the quality of the fruit: too dry and hard skin. But here we managed to find a solution - planting a suitable variety. Asian smooth-cucumber variety, bred specifically for hot and dry climates, always retains juiciness and tenderness.

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  6. Rimma KAZAKOVA, Tver region

    I try to plan planting wisely. I place vegetables so that they are good neighbors and help each other to fight pests.
    To save cabbage from the invasion of aphids, caterpillars, next to the planted seedlings, this fennel. With his scent, he will scare away many pests, as, strictly speaking, nasturtium. The last one I plant around the perimeter and in the center. Such a protective landing also looks beautiful!
    Like cabbage to grow and next to the celery. He protects it from the attack of earthen fleas. And cucumber grass does not allow slugs to get to the cabbage. The fleecy leaves of this plant become an insurmountable obstacle for them. Nearby you can plant also fragrant herbs, which interrupt cabbage smell, misleading pests.
    Well, beans get along fine in my garden with cucumbers. The first grow up, and the second ones spread around them in the open ground, this way the place is saved.
    In addition, the beans give the cucumber much needed nitrogen for them. When I remove the ripened pods, I cut the plant itself, but I do not tear it out with roots.
    The roots remain in the ground and continue to feed the cucumbers, due to which the whips grow, and many crunchy greens appear on them. Here are some simple tips, but what business!

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  7. Galina

    often write that cucumbers are not friends with potatoes. And here I put them in a row right between the beds of the second bread, and they were beautiful there.
    I’ll even say more: lashes of cucumbers curled along the bushes of potatoes, crawled under the leaves, and there were a lot of fruits, because the neighbor’s tops saved them from the heat. The following year, I did the same with a hybrid Chinese farm F1. And again, good luck - these cucumbers in the tops of potatoes simply grew to an incredible size and lay there calmly until fully ripened. So I'm sure that such a landing is very useful for both cultures.
    Speaking of hybrids. Often summer residents write that you can’t take seeds from them. I have just planted them in 2012, and some of them are parthenocarpic. In autumn, when harvesting the tops, I found two large cucumbers that were not brown in color and not in large “pimples”, but yellow-green and smooth. And I took seeds from them, though quite a bit. In December, she put them in a warm sock and hung them on a battery, where they warmed themselves until spring. In the country, I landed them in a separate warm hole.
    And there were a lot of cucumbers, they bloomed until the fall! So from each rule there are exceptions.
    As for specific hybrids, then for the yield I really like the Swallow F1 and the Hit of the season F1.
    And of the usual varietal - Phoenix (planted it on June 10).
    I did not manage to grow onion turnips through seedlings last season. And I only blame myself. She was probably late with the time of planting - it was already too warm in the yard, but you still need to plant onion seedlings early, in moist soil, and water abundantly. In general, I am madly in love with working on the ground, but I do not strive to achieve a crop at any cost: I read, study, analyze, and if something does not work out, I try again.

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  8. Tatyana ENOTOVA, Pskov

    On my site there is only one good place for strawberry beds: sunny, closed from the wind, slightly away from the main garden, which is completely plowed in autumn by a tractor. But the change of cultures still need to be followed, otherwise the crops will inevitably fall. I solve this problem by forming two-cropped beds.
    In the 1st year I divide the bed in half lengthwise. I plant strawberries in one half, and tomatoes in the second. Between tomato seedlings, I slightly deepen the cylinders from the middle of wide plastic bottles into the ground so that tomato roots do not penetrate there.
    In the summer, when the strawberry will release a mustache, I root new rosettes between tomatoes, in the fenced areas. Until August I do not separate my mother from the uterine bush, then the seedlings will yield a decent harvest already next year. Excess mustache I delete immediately, so as not to thicken the planting.
    In autumn, I carefully remove the tomatoes, and there is a garden planted with strawberries 1 and 2. Next summer, the plants grow on both halves of the bed, and in autumn I remove the old row and sow this place with ciderat (mustard).
    At 3-th year already on the other half of the garden, tomatoes grow, and from matured bushes between them I root strawberry layers.

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