Compatibility of vegetables - table (personal experience)
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Compatibility and survival of vegetables - a table composed of personal experience
Plants, like people, feel sympathy and antipathy towards each other.
Only this attitude is expressed in them not by words and views, but by substances released into the air and into the soil, which stimulate or, on the contrary, oppress the growth and development of neighbors.
Observing from year to year for my garden, through trial, experimentation and the inevitable mistakes, I learned to recognize friends and enemies among plants. I want to propose the results of these studies.
Reference by topic: Compatibility of vegetables in beds
Vegetables are good neighbors
Cucumbers are useful to plant in the aisle rows. They grow well, and the neighboring culture gives dense head-heads.
Mutually increase the yield of carrots and onions planted nearby.
Positive influence on each other legumes (peas, beans) and corn, beans and potatoes, onion, garlic and black currant, cucumbers and dill.
The salad and parsley coexist perfectly on the same bed, and the garlic is between them, it turns out a whole friendly "hostel".
A good harvest was given last year to potatoes, which grew in the young apple tree row.
Garlic, onion, turnips, radish, lettuce, spinach, tomatoes are planted from year to year, changing places, in the trunks of apple trees, and all the plants develop well.
Good neighbors - grapes and violets.
Together - Against Pests
Mutual assistance of plants is manifested in the fight against pests. When combining the planting of cabbage with tomatoes on the tied head, there will be much less fleas and leaf beetles than where this crop grows alone. Healthy cabbage cabbage helps me also get a leaf celery planted next to it.
Tomatoes in the inter-rows of gooseberries protect it from fire and sawfly.
Planting garlic on the edges of the beds and between the bushes of wild strawberries helps to get rid of the malicious pest of the root system - the wireworm.
In the rows of potatoes I plant flower seeds - calendula and matthiol. These plants repel the Colorado potato beetle.
Note
Radish is not at all like neighborhood with peas, beans, hyssop and strawberries.
Onions and legumes do not tolerate each other at all.
Flax and fruit trees are not friends.
There is no place for any vegetables under coniferous trees.
See also: Neighborhood of colors - compatibility on the flowerbed
Compatibility table
I propose my desk table-cheat sheet, without which I have not started to plan any sowing work for a year.
Vegetable culture |
Good compatibility |
Poor compatibility |
Eggplant |
Peas, potatoes |
Onions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic |
Peas |
Eggplants, potatoes, corn, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beans |
Onions, garlic, tomatoes |
Daikon |
Courgettes, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, spinach, pumpkin |
Peas, strawberries, cabbage |
Cabbage |
Potatoes, onions, lettuce, beets, celery, dill |
Strawberries, beans |
Potato |
Eggplants, peas, cabbage, onions, corn, parsley, lettuce, beets, horseradish, beans, garlic, radish |
Cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel |
Bow |
Black currant, garden strawberries, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, watercress, spinach |
Beans, peas, beans, cabbage |
Carrots |
Peas, onions, tomatoes |
Fennel |
cucumbers |
Peas, dill, beans, lettuce, cabbage |
Potatoes, tomatoes |
Pepper |
Onions, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, basil, eggplant |
Peas, cucumbers, celery, beans |
Parsley
|
Onion, lettuce, peas, beans, tomatoes, radish, kidney beans |
Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish |
Tomatoes |
Green cultures, cabbage, onions, gooseberries, asparagus, beans |
Potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, fennel |
Salad |
Cabbage, garden strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radish, spinach, peas |
Tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, beets |
Beetroot |
Cabbage, onion, lettuce, kidney beans |
Fennel |
Plant Compatibility - Opinions and Tips
I propose to discuss the problem of plant compatibility. Personal experience is very important here, observations of attentive gardeners.
You can find articles and tables on the Internet, but it seems that the authors simply retype the information without noticing the contradictions. In recent years, the range of planting material has expanded, which is very pleasing. I want both this and that, and now you believe, buy, plant ...
When I started to master the site (20 years ago), I was not serious about the issue of compatibility. That is, I observed the rules of planting seedlings, studied agricultural technology, everything grew, everything worked out. But over time, I began to notice, for example, that the bushes of the currant are closer to the birch, the worse they develop. They just withered, despite the withdrawal. The same picture was found in the development of jasmine bushes, neighboring with a chic juniper, which I accidentally yanked out in the woods at the fall, and to apologize to him, I planted in my garden. Over the years, he was fluffed, I shaped his crown with pruning, admired him. But the nearest bush of Philadelphus withered.
Another example: a plum seedling, located at 1,5 m from a lilac bush, does not want to grow. Sits for four years, and neither there nor here! We have to look for other miserable places, transplant, injure. But the garden is planned, there is no extra place ...
We have to part with the aggressors - they cut down a birch, transplanted a juniper over the fence ...
If we summarize the information of Internet publications, then everything bothers everyone, because on our plots fruit and ornaments sit nearby, forming a communal apartment. Delicate, graceful spirea are also aggressive: Douglas spirea “ate” two bushes of red currant, which prevented it from growing and did not want to give way. Gray Spirea, my favorite, seems to be to blame for the death of a bush of a "broken heart" and two daylilies. And last year I was almost left without cucumbers!
I decided to put them in one greenhouse with tomatoes (in different beds, of course).
Replaced twice - do not emerge, and those that were able to ascend froze in the cotyledon phase! In a panic, she sowed, as always, in the garden - and everything worked out!
And how many different novelties in our gardens about which there is absolutely no information in terms of compatibility! For example, who are afraid of hydrangeas, rodendrons, conifers, blueberries? Let us help each other with our observations to solve the crossword “whom and where with whom”, since incompatibility seems to be far from empty fears of overly emotional enthusiasts of six hundred.
© Author: Evgenia Aleksandrova LYSOVA. Saint Petersburg
Good Neighborhood
Planting several crops on one crop, certain rules must be observed. And then a good harvest of one and the other vegetable is provided!
I follow that everyone has enough space and light. Has noticed: photons - pumpkin, nightshade, cabbage, mustard, corn, beans. They tolerate partial shade of basil, peas, chard, parsnip, parsley, radish, rhubarb, beets, spinach, carrots. Normally grow in the shade lovage, mint.
That plants do not compete for a food, I select pairs with a root system of different length. Small roots - in radishes, celery, lettuce, onions. Medium - in eggplant, peas, tomato, beets, beans. Deeply grow watermelon, pumpkin, horse-radish, parsnip.
I select plants that need the same amount of water. For example, I plant seedlings of tomatoes with early carrots. Often I water cucumbers, so I do not put onions to them, otherwise it gets sick and gets worse.
Between tomatoes I grow the basil and parsley protecting them from pests, and between cabbage - fennel and celery, which scare away their fragrance of whitewashes.
Favorite combination of vegetables
Cabbage - all aromatic herbs (hyssop, dill, sage, celery, boragoes, etc.); cabbage + potatoes.
Potatoes + marigolds.
Corn + curly beans, pumpkin and cucumbers. Corn gives them a light shadow, protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, beans feeds corn with nitrogen, pumpkin leaves protect from overheating the roots of neighbors, and they are compatible for irrigation and fertilizing.
Pepper + basil.
Tomatoes + carrots, parsley, basil, borago.
Beets + potatoes, cabbage (except for color).
Garlic + strawberry, tk. garlic protects the berry from slugs, aphids, caterpillars and black spotting.
© Author: Nina SHULGINOVA, Krasnodar region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to keep onions and garlic without loss - diseases during storage
- How to properly water the vegetables in the heat
- Growing asparagus in the Middle Lane - planting and care (Kaluga region)
- Garlic-spruce hut for sheltering plants for the winter
- Seedlings - sowing date (Memo table)
- Healthy seedlings - advice from a candidate of agricultural sciences
- How to prevent carrots and cabbage from cracking and rotting potatoes
- Garden in Kurdyumov - about the wind ...
- Wintering of garden plants
- Planting onions and garlic together - my reviews
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Why do some people write carrots and beets are good neighbors, others p, the house is bad. Who to believe?
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In plants, often the strongest help the weaker. I was convinced of this by using the advice that my friend gave me. I didn’t really believe her - it’s not enough to conduct an experiment.
It consisted in the fact that I sowed two rows of sunflower seeds every 60 see. And when the seedlings appeared, it was time to plant tomato seedlings in the open ground.
So, I made the holes between the grown sunflowers. Hemp twine was attached to their stalks in two rows, it turned out a tapestry, to which she tied up the bushes of tomatoes.
The plants got on well with each other and gave good yields.
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ABOUT COMPATIBILITY
For vegetables to grow better, I would recommend planting plants based on their compatibility.
For example, cabbage is bad with tomatoes and beans, but good with onions, celery, potatoes, dill and salad. You can’t get along with cucumbers with potatoes, and tomatoes with fennel. But the tomatoes will be happy planted next to asparagus, beans and greens. Potatoes do not grow near tomatoes and pumpkins. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic. Carrots get along with everyone, although I will sow it next to onions, potatoes, dill and lettuce to protect against a carrot fly. You can’t get along with cucumbers with potatoes, and tomatoes with fennel. But the tomatoes will be happy planted next to asparagus, beans and greens. Potatoes do not grow near tomatoes and pumpkins. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic. Carrots get along with everyone, although I will sow it next to onions to protect against a carrot fly.
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Are there really vegetables that are "friendly" and grow together perfectly? I also heard something about useful plants for the soil.
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Indeed, there are plants that get along well with each other. So, for example, amaranth and cumin are the most friendly, they well influence the growth and development of very many plants, as they improve the physical properties of the soil. Almost with any cultures, soybeans work together perfectly. In the basil, cucumber grass, tomatoes and spinach there is a physiologically active substance - saponin, which promotes intensive growth and development of other plants.
We should not forget about the phytoncidal properties of garden crops that are capable of fighting the pathogens of late blight, as well as the vascular bacteriosis of cabbage. Such properties are possessed with garlic, onions, beets, carrots, lettuce, parsley, dill, and also pumpkin and cucumber.
From Colorado beetle, oddly enough, will help beans. And next to the potatoes it is useful to plant horseradish - it helps to fight with various pathogens,
roots diseases. But the celery attracts some pests, for example butterflies of cabbages, and aubergine - a Colorado beetle.
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Vegetable tradeoffs
We are always taught: do not plant tomatoes and cucumbers together. And this
is fair. After all, the optimal parameters of humidity and average daily temperatures for them vary greatly. But apart from these crops, there are many more that also require growing under cover. A separate greenhouse for each plant can not be built, which means that it is necessary to look for compromises, planting them together.
My experience shows that in one greenhouse you can grow more than a dozen different crops and get a decent harvest at the same time. It is very important to think over which plants will be located on the neighboring beds. Take into account the places of maximum ventilation due to open doors, areas where additional moisture will flow during rains
(plants that are located along the wall, their roots are taken to the street). Dlinnostebelnye vines need to be planted at the ends with further removal of the aboveground part of plants in the open ground. It is necessary to calculate the terms of vegetation, so that after harvesting the earlier, later cultures occupy their area.
I noticed that cucumbers, even with low humidity in the tomato greenhouse, produce excellent yields of up to 13 kg per plant. The problem was only in the quality of the fruit: too dry and hard skin. But here we managed to find a solution - planting a suitable variety. Asian smooth-cucumber variety, bred specifically for hot and dry climates, always retains juiciness and tenderness.
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I try to plan planting wisely. I place vegetables so that they are good neighbors and help each other to fight pests.
To save cabbage from the invasion of aphids, caterpillars, next to the planted seedlings, this fennel. With his scent, he will scare away many pests, as, strictly speaking, nasturtium. The last one I plant around the perimeter and in the center. Such a protective landing also looks beautiful!
Like cabbage to grow and next to the celery. He protects it from the attack of earthen fleas. And cucumber grass does not allow slugs to get to the cabbage. The fleecy leaves of this plant become an insurmountable obstacle for them. Nearby you can plant also fragrant herbs, which interrupt cabbage smell, misleading pests.
Well, beans get along fine in my garden with cucumbers. The first grow up, and the second ones spread around them in the open ground, this way the place is saved.
In addition, the beans give the cucumber much needed nitrogen for them. When I remove the ripened pods, I cut the plant itself, but I do not tear it out with roots.
The roots remain in the ground and continue to feed the cucumbers, due to which the whips grow, and many crunchy greens appear on them. Here are some simple tips, but what business!
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often write that cucumbers are not friends with potatoes. And here I put them in a row right between the beds of the second bread, and they were beautiful there.
I’ll even say more: lashes of cucumbers curled along the bushes of potatoes, crawled under the leaves, and there were a lot of fruits, because the neighbor’s tops saved them from the heat. The following year, I did the same with a hybrid Chinese farm F1. And again, good luck - these cucumbers in the tops of potatoes simply grew to an incredible size and lay there calmly until fully ripened. So I'm sure that such a landing is very useful for both cultures.
Speaking of hybrids. Often summer residents write that you can’t take seeds from them. I have just planted them in 2012, and some of them are parthenocarpic. In autumn, when harvesting the tops, I found two large cucumbers that were not brown in color and not in large “pimples”, but yellow-green and smooth. And I took seeds from them, though quite a bit. In December, she put them in a warm sock and hung them on a battery, where they warmed themselves until spring. In the country, I landed them in a separate warm hole.
And there were a lot of cucumbers, they bloomed until the fall! So from each rule there are exceptions.
As for specific hybrids, then for the yield I really like the Swallow F1 and the Hit of the season F1.
And of the usual varietal - Phoenix (planted it on June 10).
I did not manage to grow onion turnips through seedlings last season. And I only blame myself. She was probably late with the time of planting - it was already too warm in the yard, but you still need to plant onion seedlings early, in moist soil, and water abundantly. In general, I am madly in love with working on the ground, but I do not strive to achieve a crop at any cost: I read, study, analyze, and if something does not work out, I try again.
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On my site there is only one good place for strawberry beds: sunny, closed from the wind, slightly away from the main garden, which is completely plowed in autumn by a tractor. But the change of cultures still need to be followed, otherwise the crops will inevitably fall. I solve this problem by forming two-cropped beds.
In the 1st year I divide the bed in half lengthwise. I plant strawberries in one half, and tomatoes in the second. Between tomato seedlings, I slightly deepen the cylinders from the middle of wide plastic bottles into the ground so that tomato roots do not penetrate there.
In the summer, when the strawberry will release a mustache, I root new rosettes between tomatoes, in the fenced areas. Until August I do not separate my mother from the uterine bush, then the seedlings will yield a decent harvest already next year. Excess mustache I delete immediately, so as not to thicken the planting.
In autumn, I carefully remove the tomatoes, and there is a garden planted with strawberries 1 and 2. Next summer, the plants grow on both halves of the bed, and in autumn I remove the old row and sow this place with ciderat (mustard).
At 3-th year already on the other half of the garden, tomatoes grow, and from matured bushes between them I root strawberry layers.