We fertilize the garden properly - what fertilizers for what
Contents ✓
Memo for a summer residence about a fertilizer for a garden and a kitchen garden
To get a rich harvest, we suggest keeping this express reminder about fertilizers.
Soil acidity
To assimilate fertilizers, the acidity of the soil is important. For the growth and proper development of plants, the pH should be at the level of 6,5.
In alkaline soils, where pH> 7, the elements necessary for plants are poorly absorbed: phosphorus, iron, zinc, manganese.
It is recommended to fertilize alkaline soils with nitrate fertilizers: nitrofoska, calcium nitrate.
Acidic soils with pH = 4-5,5 hamper the absorption of calcium, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus and sulfur.
Fertilize acidic soils are recommended with ammonium fertilizers - ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride.
pH scale
To determine the pH with the analyzer, you need to make several holes around the site, fill them with distilled water and, each time wiping the feeler gauge, measure the indicators. Then calculate the average indicator, which should be oriented.
Determine the acidity of the soil without equipment using vinegar and soda. To do this, in two containers you need to gain land. Pour vinegar into one, distilled water into another and pour soda on top. If the reaction started in the first tank, the earth is alkaline, if soda hissed, it was acidic.
Neutralize the acidity of the soil can be the introduction of wood ash, hydrated lime, ground limestone, shell rock or chalk. Application rates: 250-600 g / m2, depending on the type of soil.
Acidify the soil can be organic. But heavy clay soils use ferrous sulphate, sulfur and ammonia fertilizers according to the manufacturer's instructions. The introduction of organic fertilizers for the acidification of clay soils will give the opposite effect.
See also: Mineral or organic fertilizers - what to choose?
ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
These are natural natural fertilizers of vegetable or animal origin. In addition to changing the structure of the soil, they also have a positive effect on its chemical composition, enriching the soil with elements necessary for plants.
Manure
Under the general term “manure” lies a variety of organic fertilizers. This fertilizer enriches the earth with calcium, potassium, nitrogen, manganese, sulfur and phosphorus.
IMPORTANT! Do not use fresh manure, because during the decay, it releases substances that are harmful to plants.
In reparted form, manure is suitable for most garden and garden crops.
Cow manure contains a lot of potassium, calcium and nitrogen. Make it in the fall under a deep digging 3-4 kg / m2.
Rabbit manure and poultry and litter are rich in nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. It is embedded in the ground in autumn in 300-400 g / m2.
Horse, sheep and goat manure is a source of nitrogen and potassium, has a short decomposition period and high heat dissipation, which makes it a valuable fertilizer for greenhouses. Contribute 4-6 kg / m2, closing into the ground during the autumn or spring digging.
Pig manure is useless. Nutrient matter in it is small, and he himself can cause various infections.
Ash
Wood ash contains phosphorus, potassium, manganese, magnesium, molybdenum, zinc, sulfur and a large amount of calcium. Ash promotes the growth and proper development of plants, improves their winter hardiness, and also assists in the absorption of nutrients. Suitable for the fertilization of almost all types of fruit and berry and vegetable crops. Application rates: 300-500 g / m2. Ash can not be used for blueberries, rhododendrons and azaleas.
Peat
Peat makes the soil airy and comfortable for plant growth. For this purpose low-peat peat is used with a high degree of decomposition or treated with lime. Peat is rich in humus. The use of peat is justified only in the case of infertile soils. Make peat after digging, mixing into the top layer of the soil, or use as mulch for the entire season. Application rate: 4-8 kg / m2.
Mineral Fertilizers
These are products of the chemical industry. Useful substances in them are in a concentrated state. Mineral fertilizers are divided into simple and complex (complex).
Reference by topic: Fertilizers from kitchen remnants - what for what
SIMPLE FERTILIZERS
Nitrogen fertilizers
Nitrogen fertilizers significantly increase yield and make plants resistant to pests and certain diseases. This type of fertilizer is suitable for all crops, except beans. Nitrogen fertilizers, especially their nitrate form, contribute to the accumulation of nitrates in the soil.
Nitrogen Carbamide, better known as urea, is a leader in nitrogen content among nitrogen fertilizers. In its composition - up to 45% of this substance. Urea is introduced only by deepening, otherwise nitrogen will begin to evaporate. The application rate depends on the plant - for example, 10 g / m is enough for cucumbers2, for tomato and pepper - 20 g / m2.
Ammonium nitrate contains up to 35% nitrogen. Make it in advance, even before the thawing of the soil, at the rate of 15-20 g / m2.
Cyanamide in the composition has 19% nitrogen. They bring it into the still frozen soil because of the slow decay.
Sodium nitrate contains up to 17% nitrogen, but it is well absorbed even in acidic soils. Add saltpeter to 30-35 g / m2. Suitable for fertilizing plants with a formed root system.
Phosphate fertilizers
Simple superphosphate contains up to 25% phosphorus, double superphosphate - about 50%. A month before the application of superphosphate, ash is applied to the soil. Norm for seedlings - 30 g / m2in greenhouses - up to 100 g / m2.
Phosphoritic flour used on acidic soils. Increases plant immunity to pests and colds. In addition to phosphorus, this fertilizer is rich in calcium. They bring it in the fall, before frosts. Consumption - 50 g / m2. Phosphate fertilizers are especially needed for flowering plants.
Potash
Potassium chloride is suitable for potatoes, beets and almost all cereals. Make in the soil during the autumn digging. During the winter, chlorine is washed away, leaving beneficial potassium in the ground. Application rates - 25 g / m2.
Potassium sulphate contains up to 50% of active substance and, unlike potassium chloride, does not contain chlorine. This is one of the favorite fertilizers of cucumbers. It is made at a spring digging at the rate of 30 g / m2.
COMPLEX FERTILIZERS
Nitrophosphate (nitroammophoska) has in the composition of three basic substances: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The exact ratio depends on the manufacturer. The use of nitrophosphate not only cures plants, but also prevents the development of diseases such as scab, black leg, powdery mildew. The increase in yield with the use of this complex can reach 70%. Improves the taste of fruit. For potatoes and vegetable seedlings it is enough to make 20 g / m2, strawberries require up to 40 g / m2.
Nitrofosca - This is a slightly different version of the nitrophosphate formula. This fertilizer complex is based on the same phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.
Ammophos contains potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. This complex is also for greenhouses. Increases the resistance of plants to diseases and pests. When digging the soil, the application rate of 20-30 g / m2 in open ground and in greenhouses is up to 50 g / m2.
Diammophos - universal fertilizer for all types of soils. Contains phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. Provides plant resistance to diseases, pests, adverse weather conditions. Fertilizer is applied in the spring for digging at 20-30 g / m2 in open field and up to 40 g / m2 - in the greenhouses.
See also: Fertilizers and fertilizing for flowers
Signs and symptoms of a lack of fertilizers
Symptoms |
It is necessary to make |
Red-violet hiring on leaves Leaves early overfly The plant lags behind in growth |
Phosphorus R Diamothophos 30 g / m2 or nitrophase 25-30 g / m2 |
The leaves are covered with spots The edges of the leaves twist, wrinkle, die |
Magnesium Мg Stop the application of potassium * Dolomite flour 20-30 g / m2 Magnesium sulphate 10-30 g / m2 |
Edges of leaves burned There are necrotic zones |
potassium К Potassium sulphate 10-20 g / m2 Potassium chloride 10-30 g / m2 |
Plant - emaciated, yellowed Bad flowering Poorly developed lower leaves |
Nitrogen N Carbamide 20 - up to g / m2 Azotofax 40 g / m2 |
The plant grows poorly Leaves grow dim, retaining color streaks |
Hardware Fe Iron vitriol 0,5-1 g / l (spraying) |
Young leaves and shoots wrinkled, twisted |
Calcium are Calcium nitrate 2,5 g / m2 Dolomite lime 350-400 g / m2 |
© Author: Natalia Stepanova
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Often I hear that the garden and the garden are recommended to be fed with peat. And I have a swamp near the dacha. Can I go there, pick up peat and fertilize my site with it? Or does peat need some additional treatment?
What crops are used for this supplement?
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Peat is often used as an organic fertilizer. However, when applying it is necessary to remember some of its features. Depending on the type of swamp, peat can be lowland, transitional and high. The highest content of minerals and nitrogen is noted in lowland peat, the lowest - in highland. In addition, peat has an acidic environment and is able to acidify the soil. It should be noted that freshly extracted peat contains a significant amount of organic substances (including phenols), whose presence is not always beneficial for plants. Therefore, peat is usually “weathered”, that is, they are kept in the open air for about a year. During this time, these substances evaporate or are washed away by precipitation.
It is better to use peat as a part of peat-humic composts. Weathered peat (even the horse) is not badly recommended as mulch.
However, in your case, before going to the swamp, it is necessary to ask the local environmental authorities how lawful its extraction will be: since in some regions many bogs have the status of specially protected natural areas.
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We produce a large number of potash fertilizers. A lot of them are imported from abroad, moreover, of very different types. Are they all equivalent in application? What types are preferable for summer residents and owners of personal plots?
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This letter gives us a full basis to continue the conversation begun about the peculiarities of various types of mineral fertilizers.
Potash
Fertilizers containing potassium are often called the main factor for increasing crop yields. In this element, plants need more than other useful substances. Sufficient provision of potassium accelerates the process of photosynthesis, increases resistance to various diseases, enables you to adapt quickly to unfavorable weather conditions, improves the taste of the fruit.
Potassium chloride
This fertilizer takes the lion's share in the production of potash tukov-up to 90%. Belarusian enterprise "Bela-ruskaliy" and two Russian companies ("Uralka-Liya" and "Silvinit") mainly produce this product. It can be of three main varieties: in the form of pink or gray-white crystals (the color is due to different technologies of potash ore enrichment) or pellets of the same color "palette", which are characterized by a slow dissolution in the soil, which ensures a longer action of fertilizers.
Potassium chloride is a part of many complex fertilizers, but is offered by trade in a "pure" form. The potassium content in it is on the average 60%.
For this fertilizer all the restrictions that have been given with respect to ammonium chloride are valid: the chlorine content adversely affects the development of potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, raspberries, red and black currants, strawberries.
However, this deficiency can be overcome if one knows the features of introducing potassium chloride. Heavy and medium-heavy soils are best fertilized in autumn. Prior to the start of the new season, chlorine as a sufficiently mobile element will be washed from the ground by sediments and meltwater, while heavier potassium will remain in the ground.
The process of washing out chlorine proceeds much faster on light sandy loamy soils, as well as on peatlands, therefore, the introduction of potassium chloride in the spring is quite acceptable here. But the autumn "complementary foods" on such soils may turn out to be useless - potassium will also leave with chlorine.
Potassium chloride should not be mixed with lime materials: dolomite flour, chalk, lime. At the same time, this fertilizer essentially acidifies the soil, so on acid soils it can be used only after liming. It is desirable that after this, 1-2 weeks pass.
The rate of application of potassium chloride in the fall is 10-20 g / mg. In the spring of this fertilizer, much less is required - 2,5-3,5 g / mg.
Despite the "antipathy" of potatoes to chlorine, when planting, it is useful to add 2-3 g of fertilizer to the hole - one pinch. This culture requires a significant amount of potassium, and its content, as mentioned above, in the tuk we describe is very high.
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For me, no fertilizer is better than chicken manure. This is because, says a neighbor, that money is a pity for store fertilizer. I answer her: I just don’t need to spend money, because there is everything in bird droppings - phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium with magnesium and calcium.
I use chicken droppings on all my beds and under the berry bushes. She noticed that plants react to such top dressing almost instantly - they grow like yeast, they form ovaries and fruits faster. Moreover, even a single feeding is enough. I want to caution beginners - chicken fertilizer has a peculiarity: it is a very vigorous substance. Fresh litter contains uric acid in concentrated form. It is very caustic and can burn both the roots and leaves of a plant. Therefore, never use it in its purest form.
I have two recipes, how to prepare a valuable feeding from the chicken manure.
I-th way
Fresh litter diluted in water in the ratio of 1 l litter on 15-
20 L of water. I try to water right after the rain or a few hours after watering. One plant leaves from 0,5 to 1 l. All that is left is poured into the compost pile.
This method is good in that you can accurately calculate the dosage. There is a lot of nitrogen in chicken litter; if overdone, then grow one of the tops.
2 method
I'm hindering the liquid droppings with the straw, it's still in the poultry podstelena, then put it all in a compost hole and wait until pereperet. Straw in the pile heats up a lot, and from time to time I pile a heap with pitchforks. Usually last two months, and fertilizer is ready. I will sprinkle it in the spring under all the beds, and nothing burns. And if someone contributes already during the growth of vegetables and is afraid of burns, after the top dressing properly, pour the whole garden with water. So fertilizer will not be so concentrated, and from the leaves, if anything gets into them, it will wash off.
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Soda is indispensable not only for housewives in the kitchen, but also for summer residents in the garden. For example, I often use it in my greenhouse to spray cucumbers. I prepare the following solution: 1 teaspoon of soda in 1 liter of warm water. I spray them with cucumbers - this is an excellent tool for the prevention of powdery mildew. Since I began to use this advice, my cucumbers ceased to hurt.
Valentine
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I want to share a recipe for the preparation of a universal fertilizer: it is suitable for both vegetables and fruit trees and shrubs. Personally, I feed them cucumbers and tomatoes.
How to cook
40-liter barrel on 2 / 3 fill the grass without seeds (you can freshly weeded weeds, I prefer nettles and burdock). I fall asleep about 1 kg of chicken manure (goose, from ducks or turkeys, but it needs a little more - 1,3-1,5 kg per barrel) and 8-9 kg of rabbit manure (can be cow's). Next, I pour the barrel to the brim with water and cover it with the lid, so that the process takes place without access to sunlight. The mixture is mixed slightly twice a day. After 3-5 days (in hot weather) or a week later (in a cool one) a film appears on the surface of the barrel - the concentrate is ready! With a long stick carefully mix the composition. The remainder of grass and manure with forks I transfer to the compost pile.
How to apply?
Liter infused in 10 l of water.
Cucumbers first time feed at the very beginning of flowering, the second - during the mass setting of fruits, then - as needed (if the whip begins to turn yellow).
Tomatoes for the first time I feed during pasynkovaniya or flowering, after - as necessary, about once in 2-3 weeks.
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All plants go into growth, potato tops reach 1,5 m, or even more. We do not apply any nitrogen fertilizers. I suppose that there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil. What to do?
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In fact, excess nitrogen in the soil does not always affect the growth of plants, especially so strong. Usually, when there is a surplus of nitrogen in the ground, a sharp thickening of plant stems, a decrease in the number of ovaries, flowers, the formation of a large number of leaves of a saturated green color, but growth may not only not increase, but even slow down. Try to make during the season about half the matchbox of any phosphorus and potash fertilizer per 1 sq.m. These elements are able to balance the concentration of nitrogen in the soil, if it is exceeded.