Planting and care of pepper (photo) - from seedlings to snacks
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Cultivation of pepper: subtleties and rules
Very useful and not very simple in the pepper cultures sweet in a temperate climate and even to the south it is recommended to grow through sprouts
The fact is that pepper does not have a limited fruiting period (unlike, for example, tomatoes). The whole season, as long as the weather permits, it will form fruits. For this reason, the sooner you sow, the more you “reap”, that is, the more fruits you can get during the warm summer time (in open ground) or during the period when you can grow pepper in a greenhouse.
Seeding of pepper and sprouting
As a substratum for seeding pepper seeds, it is desirable to use a ready seedlings mixture. Immediately after sowing, the soil should be compacted and shed. Sowing tanks covered with a film, before germination.
Seedlings of pepper should not have a lack of moisture in the soil. Watering should be carried out as the soil dries up.
In the first days after seedlings, seedlings should be watered in a rarefied mode - after 2-3 days to prevent over-humidification (from excess moisture, plants can get sick with a "black leg").
See also: Sweet pepper - cultivation, planting and care. Varieties of sweet pepper.
After 10-15-day-old age, when plants will be able to absorb more water, due to the increase in leaf size, you can gradually introduce daily watering.
OUR REFERENCE
The age of pepper seedlings for planting in the soil is 50-55 days from the appearance of seedlings. Plants grown from such a “correct” seedlings will yield a greater yield than those grown from seedlings of a younger age.
The optimum temperature for seed germination is 24-28-° C, for the development of young plants - 21-27.
Care of pepper seedlings
Seedlings are regularly fed, starting from the phase of 1-2 true leaves, three times, with an interval of 10-12 days. For 10 l of water - 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of superphosphate. You can use specialized fertilizers for seedlings.
Hardening begins to be carried out 2-3 weeks before transplanting seedlings to a permanent place in open ground: they limit watering and lower the temperature (ventilate) in the afternoon to 20 ° C
For 2-3 days before planting seedlings in the soil, for prevention, plants can be sprayed with approved pesticides plus fungicide (from fungal diseases, for example fusariosis).
Such treatment will well protect young plants that find themselves in new conditions. Processing of seedlings should be carried out outdoors, in warm, but cloudy weather.
Forms and colors
The fruits of sweet pepper are mostly prismatic (they are the largest with thick juicy walls) and conical.
By color, they are classified into red, yellow, brown, purple, orange.
There is also pepper with midi fruits, that is, medium size. In addition, sweet pepper has varieties resembling sharp varieties - with elongated, elongated fruits.
Usually such pepper is grown for consumption in pickled form in a number of national cuisines.
Pepper: care
Pepper, planted in the ground, feed 2-3 once a season with fertilizers that do not include chlorine.
Once a season, a fertilizer containing magnesium should be added. The roots of pepper are not too powerful, In addition, plants react painfully to mechanical damage to the roots, because of which they can even get fusariosis.
All this to the fact that the first fertilizing should be given at a distance from the plant within 20-25 cm. Then, as pepper grows up, the distance can be shortened.
Watering pepper
In extreme heat, pepper should be watered daily. The main need for water is from mid-July to August. An excess of water should not be allowed in the greenhouse. Due to oversaturated air в greenhouse plants may shed flower buds or there will be no pollination, and the yield will decrease.
Pepper generally does not like when moisture gets on its leaves. Irrigation is carried out only in the basal space, but not too close to the stem. To protect the roots from overheating and preserve moisture, beds with pepper plantings can be mulched.
Many dangerous viral diseases of pepper, which can not be cured, carry sucking insects. To avoid losses, we must try not to have pests on the pepper (remove the weeds, after the end of the season, handle the construction of the greenhouse with special permitted means, fight pests).
Harvesting
From planting seedlings to harvesting in early-ripening varieties takes about 7-8 weeks. Harvested by carefully cutting each fruit with secateurs or clippers, keeping the stalk 2-3 cm long.
This will avoid infection of plants with infection through wounds that can be left on the stem, if you just tear off the fruits by hand. Fruits lie at a temperature of about 12-15 ° C for two weeks.
In a temperate climate, peppers are best grown under a film - in a greenhouse or at least under cover material fixed to arcs
Reference by topic: Sweet pepper - a few practical tips for growing
Cooking paprika
The so-called paprika is crushed dry sweet red pepper. You can use this blank in different dishes - like a vitamin seasoning. To prepare it, wash the fruits, remove seeds and partitions. Cut into small thin slices.
For 3 minutes, dip in hot water, quickly choose, let the water drain. Cover the baking sheet with parchment, spread the pepper. Dry in a slightly open oven at 50 ° C. Turn over from time to time. Dried peppers can be ground in a coffee grinder and corked in dry, clean jars.
© Author: E. Bulkina. Photo by the author.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- 8 sharp varieties of hot peppers that are worth growing
- Pepper on "lazy" technology - my tips
- How to grow large peppers - tips for gardeners
- The best varieties of pepper - photo, description and name - planting and care
- Growing pepper in the Krasnodar Territory - planting and care: my tips
- Growing pepper in the Novosibirsk region without a greenhouse
- Habanero (photo) cultivation, varieties, planting and care
- Pepper seedlings - my reviews and tips on care (Samara region)
- Fatima pepper grade - my reviews and growing tips
- Varieties of unusually shaped peppers - cultivation and my reviews
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Tell me what happened with pepper? Leaves gradually dry, starting from the edge. For the first time, the disease was noted on peppers in an apartment, and when moving to a greenhouse, the process accelerated and spread to more plants ...
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Judging by the symptoms, this is a sunburn; sweet pepper. Symptoms of this noncommunicable disease are often manifested in the form of brightened areas of leaf or fruit tissue on the sunny side. The reason is excessive lighting, for example, after removing a significant part of the leaves (this brightens the bush, and as a result, burns may appear on leaves and fruits that were previously in the shade).
Therefore, the main protective measures - the installation of sunscreens and not to remove a significant amount of leaves at a time.
I. KORSAK
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The seedlings of pepper were grown by herself, everything was fine with her. Planted in a greenhouse, the plants began to grow rapidly. Once I went into the greenhouse and saw that the bushes drooped - as if someone had cut off the tops with scissors. After that the peppers to develop ceased. In place of "cropped" began to grow deformed shoots. What happened to my plants?
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Similar symptoms are typical for viral outgrowth. The reason is the virus that the aphids carry, a spider mite and other pests. Infected insects with saliva transmit the virus to a healthy plant. As a result, it does not die, but leaves start to deform, from-melt, a large number of new shoots are formed.
Fruiting such shrubs will no longer be.
By the way, the source of infection can be seeds. In the early stages of development, diseased seedlings may not be very different from healthy seedlings, but in the course of time the signs begin to manifest themselves more and more. Fight this problem only by removing all affected plants. Also you need to try to get rid of pests, so that they do not transfer the virus to even healthy bushes.
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I bought pepper seeds last spring - on the packaging it was written that they would grow large, fleshy, juicy. What happened? The fruits grew quite large, but not fleshy at all, with thin walls. What motet be the reason?
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Buying good seeds and high-quality planting material, every gardener has the right to hope for a high yield. But gardeners' expectations are not always justified - if the plants do not receive enough nutrition, the fruits grow small, fibrous, with thin walls. Peppers are fed at least twice a season, provided the soil is rich in organic matter and minerals.
The first application of fertilizers is carried out during flowering, the second - when tying fruit, and tall varieties of peppers need fertilizing more often, every 2-3 weeks. Subcortex is produced by alternating organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers.
In case of poor fruit filling, to improve meatiness, foliar feeding can be carried out - dissolve 1 tsp in S l of water. superphosphate, let it brew for a day and with this solution spray the plants in the evening or in cloudy weather.
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When the pepper does not bloom
There are years when Bulgarian pepper refuses to bloom after planting in the greenhouse. Now, learned from experience, I know what to do!
Planted seedlings, when day and night temperatures are more or less compared. At night must be not lower than 12 °.
I plant seedlings in that part of the greenhouse where the sun shines most of the day. Shadow is the enemy of flowering.
If the plants do not bloom or fall off the ovary, I often ventilate the greenhouse. It is especially important to do this in the heat.
I pour with warm water.
I feed peppers with fertilizers on liquid manure.
Pepper does not bloom as well, if it's sick, so I inspect the plants. If necessary, I treat with appropriate preparations. If after two treatments the peppers do not recover, remove them, disinfect the soil and plant new seedlings. Then I get a good harvest.
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Half of our site is in a lowland, and groundwater is very close. In order not to be left without a crop, every year we gradually raise the soil - pour soil, sand. And we also make high beds, 40-45 cm each, laying gravel in the base. It was such drainage beds that helped us to get a good pepper crop this year, despite one emergency.
Last summer, the neighbors broke the pipe, and all the water rushed to us. The beds located in the lowlands literally drowned, and I was already mentally saying goodbye to the pepper, which had just begun to tie fruit. But my husband did not intend to give up. He quickly dug deep trenches and connected the pump. I was told in all the beds to make "punctures" with a bayonet shovel and dig through small grooves for water drainage.
Around each plant, I did an 4 shallow "puncture." And when the water went off a little, gently loosened the soil, without touching the root system. Then poured over a handful of sand into each hole. I tried to loosen as often as possible, so that the water evaporates faster and so that a crust does not form on the surface of the soil.
Water left quickly enough - in 2 days. After that, I carried out an extraordinary feeding with nitrogen fertilizer. Result: peppers saved, not a single plant died!
Later I learned that high beds are good for peppers, strawberries, onions and garlic. On such a "pedestal" they give the maximum harvest and do not suffer from rainstorms or similar PE.
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Why rip a sweet pepper, if you can keep it right on the plant? I, waiting for the fruit to ripen, I tear out bushes with roots and I hang them upside down in a cool place.
So the pepper remains fresh for much longer: up to two or more months.
In addition, I freeze the pepper in the refrigerator at -18 °. So the fruits are stored without loss of high taste and nutritional qualities during 5-7 months.
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Sex and carbonate greenhouses are, of course, great: tomatoes and peppers in them bear fruit even at the first frosts. And from powdery mildew with late blight practically do not suffer. But when the heat is on the street, you are at work, and go to the garden for at least 1,5 hours, “then the greenhouse can turn into hellish hell, in which not a single plant will survive.
For many years, my greenhouse peppers stubbornly grew ugly and thin-walled. I thought it was because of the heat, so I tried - I watered them 3 times a week! But instead of rejoicing in moisture, capricious plants began to rot and discard leaves.
Later I was told that peppers do not like frequent copious irrigation, pre-
reading them daily moderate spraying of soil and foliage. It is necessary to water them more only when they form buds on the next tier of flowering. That is, not only did my peppers suffer from overheating, they also had to endure waterlogging. Under such conditions, the pollen of peppers quickly died, their flowers either did not pollinate at all, or if pollination occurred, the fruits grew ugly and thin-walled.
Crimson peppers grow and with a sharp temperature drop. That is, if the day is hot, and at night the cold and rain, and the doors of the greenhouse are still open, then a good harvest of peppers can not wait.
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I don’t grow bitter pepper in the country, it’s only sweet, so I practically didn’t check whether it is true that hot pepper pollinates sweet and sweet starts to bitter. But as far as I remember school botany, this can not be. That is, paprika, of course, can pollinate sweet, but then the DNA of paprika only gets into the seeds and can not affect the taste of the fruit itself. I do not see any opportunity for this. Well, if you sow these seeds, then you can get a hybrid that will look like sweet, and the taste will be islet. I even had to buy those on the market - yellow, large, beautiful, and tasted with bitterness. I would like to know the opinion of professional agricultural technicians. If this is so, then in general it is impossible to grow bitter and sweet peppers on one site?
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In the practice of vegetable growing there are some prohibitions, which, at first glance, contradict common sense. and science. Here the vegetable growers do not recommend putting the sweet pepper next to the sharp one. They motivate it with that. that the fruits of sweet pepper in the first year will be sharp and even burning. Anyone who has studied biology in school, and especially genetics, will say that this should not happen, and will be wrong. And the matter is in the so-called phenomenon of xenia. When transferring pollen from one plant to another, foreign genes are involved not only in the formation of the embryo, but also in the pericarp. Very good it can be seen in the re-spraying of various varieties of corn. Cobs with a different coloring form grains grow. Pepper refers to facultative self-pollinators, and very often in the south pollen from the plant is transferred to the plant by insects: bumblebees, ants, bees. Pepper is sweet and many varieties of hot pepper cultivated in our country are botanically related to one species and easily interbreed with each other. That's if the hot pepper will be from another species, then there will definitely not be a dusting. For example, there will be planted shrub pepper, called "fire" in the people, and ordinary sweet pepper. And one more detail. An ordinary "white" person is able to feel in the language only a few molecules of the burning substance of capsaicin. and this is very high selectivity. The southern peoples are less susceptible and do not even consider the semi-sharp varieties sharp, treating them to sweet ones. They often practice sucking hot pepper to sweets to make the latter more expressive in flavor and taste. So it happens in life and a miracle, like a bitter sweet pepper.
BY THE WAY
Representatives of southern peoples, in contrast, for example, from indigenous Europeans, do not even consider the semi-sharp varieties of peppers to be acute, referring them to sweet. And it is often practiced by sifting hot pepper to sweets to make the latter more expressive in flavor and taste.
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Peppers are very tender - their root system hardly transfers transplantation and transshipment to the ground. But it is impossible to pass, as the way of pepper through seedlings in the northern regions is inevitable.
The main thing when transplanting is to be extremely careful, not to damage thin roots. Previously, my seedlings were constantly "sick" after a transplant of about 2 weeks. 3 years ago, I began to grow seedlings not in boxes, but in a newspaper. I cut the squares 20 × 20 cm, rolled them in the form of cylinders, filled them with soil, set everything in the same box and sowed the peppers. Newsprint calmly withstands watering for 1,5 months. The main thing is to moisten the soil a little. When it came time to transplant the peppers into the ground, I dropped them right in this paper cup. Seedlings survived the transplant very easily.
Why do not I use peat-and-green pots? Yes, they are more convenient and more stable, but more dense. In the earth they decompose more slowly, especially when there are insufficient watering and low soil fertility. As a result, it can even move the fruiting time.