Growing and caring for beets - the best advice
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Beetroot - planting and care: councilors of summer residents (from comments and reviews)
One of the symbols of Russia for foreigners, along with bears and nesting dolls, is an outlandish dish borsch - borsch. And for good reason! Without it, it is difficult to imagine our hearty, soulful cuisine. And the basis of a good borsch is sweet red beets. To grow this vegetable in a personal plot is not at all difficult, although, as in any business, it has its own secrets.
Not only roots
In all varieties, beets are edible and tasty, not only the "roots", but also the "tops" - young leaves. Beetroot maturity, when the root crops reach the size of a walnut, is used entirely for making delicious summer soups.
However, the size of the leaves grows only towards the end of June, and by the middle of summer they are already coarsening, losing their taste.
Especially for lovers of young beetroot greens, leaf beets - chard. It practically does not form root crops, but very quickly builds up a large mass of tasty tops, which for a long time remains tender and juicy.
In cooking, the leaves of chard are used similarly to summer cabbage: they cook, stew, put in raw form in salads.
Mangold is perfectly combined with other early leaf greens: sorrel, spinach, lettuce, sheet mustard, basil.
See also: Beet planting patterns
What it is like
Beets were grown in the Mediterranean already in the V century BC. Probably, to us it has got after adjustment of close contacts with Byzantium, that is about X century. The unpretentious vegetable quickly adapted to the local climate. Bright color, original taste, good curing contributed to the popularity of beets. Very important was the fact that the beet crops, unlike the beloved turnips in the old days, are slightly affected by the cruciferous flea.
For a long time, beet cultivars were few, mainly in each locality they cultivated their zoned subspecies. At the end of the 20th century, breeders actively engaged in this vegetable, creating varieties that differ in the form of root crops, maturation periods, and resistance to unfavorable factors.
Till now one of the best remains an old grade Bordeaux 237. Round, with sweet dark red pulp, yielding, mid-term maturation, sturdy, it is suitable for growing in almost all regions.
From the Netherlands came to us and very quickly gained popularity with the cylindrical form of root crops. They are convenient for processing, quickly cooked, have soft, without condensed light rings flesh.
In some varieties of red beets, the content of sugars reaches 12%, as in the best carrots. Such root vegetables can be eaten in salads in raw form, squeezed out useful juice from them.
Of particular note is the yellow-fruited varieties of beets. If in our country they are mainly fodder, yielding, but tasteless, then in the United States they grow table beet varieties with yellow flesh. To taste it almost does not differ from red, but its juice does not spoil the dishes. Now such beet finds admirers and at us.
Characteristics of some varieties of beets
Beetroot |
Early |
Average |
Late |
Round roots |
Vogue, Detroit, Modana, Incomparable A463, Spring salad, Flat Gribovskaya, North ball K-250 |
Bordeaux 237, Bull's Blood, Tsyganochka, Mulatka, Bon-Bon, Barynya |
One-sided, Nosovskaya flat |
Cylindrical root crops |
Kozak, the Sorceress |
Romance, Ataman, Mona |
Cylinder, Renova, Citadel, Torpedo |
Increased sugar content |
Red ball (Chervona kula) |
Bona, Bonel, Ordinary Miracle |
Egyptian flat |
Yellow-fruited |
The Golden Globe, Kestrel F1 |
Golden, Boldor, Golden Detroit |
Burpees Golden |
Leaf (chard)
|
Emerald, Red-bellied |
Scarlet, Belavinka, Mirage, Rubin |
Red, Dark green |
The beds are in order
Like all root crops, beets prefer loose, fertile soil. Light loam, sandy loam and chernozem are considered ideal. Not suitable heavy clay and poorly cultivated peat bogs with stagnant water.
It is advisable to prepare the bed from the fall: carefully remove plant residues, dig, add organic fertilizers: compost completely rebuilt manure. Soil reaction is necessary neutral, in acidic make dolomite flour or lime. In the spring, the bed is dug again with Nitrophus (20 g at 1 sq. M).
Fresh organics are not added to beets, otherwise the root crops will grow clumsy and unsweetened, will be poorly stored. It is not worth sowing green beets in front of beets, especially mustard - they have common pests.
The beds are arranged differently depending on the type of soil. On too loose and permeable soils, beets are planted on low beds about 1 m wide - they need less watering in summer. On heavy soils, on the contrary, the beds are made tall and narrow, so that the earth does not become denser after rains and there is no excess moisture.
Well can beetroot, planted in the lateral bevels of beds with onion and cabbage. These plants do not conflict with each other, they require approximately the same feeding and watering.
See also: To make the beets sweet - planting and care
The sun or shadow?
Beets are not too demanding on sunlight and may well be part of the day in the shade. In addition, in the shade the earth dries less, watering is required less often. But you can’t leave it completely without the sun, root crops will grow poorly and taste not very sweet. But leafy varieties, especially in the south, are even better planted in shade: the leaves will grow larger and tender.
The duration of a light day is very important for a beet. For the formation of good root crops, it should be at least 13-15 h. Otherwise, the beet grows shallow or at all strive to bloom in the first year. Therefore, in the south, where a light day is long, it is better to choose modern zoned varieties that are resistant to flowering. It will not be successful to repeat the late sowing of beets at the time when the light day begins to decrease. This applies to leaf varieties.
We sow beets in 3 reception
Beetroot is a cold-resistant plant that can easily tolerate small frosts. Sow it early, in late April in the southern regions and mid-May - in the northern. In moderate winters, winter sowing is also possible.
But with multiple hits under the cold root crops will grow small, woody, with grassy taste. Therefore, it is better to sow in 2-3 at intervals of 7-10 days.
Beet seeds with a secret
For better germination, the seeds are soaked in warm water for a day. Sometimes manufacturers process seeds with growth accelerators (information is indicated on the bag), then no pre-sowing manipulations are necessary. Sowing depth - 2-3 cm.
Beet seeds seem to be large, it seems that they are easy to sow at the right interval. However, sprouts are often thickened, and they need to be thinned out. This happens when one has to deal not with individual seeds, but with indissoluble stems-glomeruli, each of which contains several embryos. To a lesser extent this property is expressed in some modern varieties (the name includes the word "one-rooted" or "one-seeded").
To loosen, feed, water ...
In the first weeks seedlings grow slowly, at this time they need attention. Crops need to be weeded, while slightly loosening the top layer of the soil. In dry weather, frequent watering is required. The grown beet itself successfully suppresses weeds and extracts moisture from the soil. Watering is needed only when drought. If the bed is initially well-fertilized, the early beets can not be fed. Grades of medium and late terms are fed at the beginning and end of June.
Beet software 2,5 kg each!
I like to look after the garden since my childhood, always helped my parents. Now I am the main experimenter in the family. In addition to the usual set (cucumbers, tomatoes), every year I try to grow something new. I grew watermelons, melons, and other "outlandish" crops. But last year surprised the most common vegetable - beets. Roots grown beautiful and sweet, weighing 2,5 kg!
At the site where she planned to grow beets, she planted mustard in early September. When her stems reached 20 cm, she smelled them into the soil, the overpowing manure was laid over the thick layer. In the spring the earth loosened up with Fokine's plane cut.
In early May, in a small boy, he spilled the soil abundantly with a hot solution of Phytosporin. Tightly closed and left for 4 a day to warm up. In loose ground, one by one a short distance from each other sowed dry beet seeds. In late May transplanted seedlings were transplanted to a permanent place in shallow holes at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. She drank copiously with warm water.
In the summer, when root crops began to form, 10 liters of water disintegrated in 1 liters of water. salt, poured on 1 l solution for each plant. Week after three procedures repeated. I read that this top dressing improves the taste of beets. The author of the council was not mistaken - the taste of beets is really excellent.
After the rains, it loosened the soil around the plants; in the drought, it watered. In the fall, I dug up beets, cut the tops and laid them in a well-ventilated shed to dry for 3 days. I packed the root crops one at a time in plastic bags, tied it tight. In this form, and stored in the basement at a temperature of + 2 ... + 4 degrees.
FAVORITE GRADE BIRDS
Boltardo - medium-early variety. Resistant to cercosporosis and arming. Roots are of regular round shape dark red color without rings. Excellent stored.
Pablo F1 - mid-term hybrid. Roots are large, round, with a juicy ruby-violet flesh. This is one of the most unpretentious in the care of varieties, well tolerates cold overcast weather, is resistant to diseases. Root crops are perfectly preserved: they retain their shape and taste, they do not lend themselves to decay.
"Mistress" salad
And once the beet harvest was a success, we must use this! Often I prepare a salad "Mistress". He looks very appetizing and likes my home.
One or two boiled carrots rub on a small grater, spread on a flat plate, level, lubricate mayonnaise to taste. 150 g grated cheese mixed with chopped clove of garlic, spread on carrots,
Lubricate the layer with mayonnaise and cover with a "coat" of grated boiled beet. I sprinkle a handful of chopped walnuts.
Tsar's borsch
I make the "royal" preparation for borscht.
1 kg washed cleaned carrots and 3 kg of beets rubbed on a large grater. 1 kg of onions and 1,5 kg of Bulgarian pepper cut into half rings.
2 kg of washed tomatoes are ground with a blender. 2 kg cabbage and 200 g greens (dill, parsley) rub with a knife. In the deep
a pan in vegetable oil (1), fry the onions, add carrots and passer 15 minutes. I add cabbage, a carcass a quarter of an hour, then as much - a beet. I add tomatoes with pepper, 5 st.l. salt, 4 st.l. sugar, bay leaves and black pepper to taste, I pour 170 ml of apple cider vinegar and keep on burning for another 20 minutes. I fall asleep chopped greens, after 5 minutes I remove from fire, I spread it into clean sterilized jars, I roll up. I keep in the cellar. When I cook the borscht, put 3 l billet on 0,5 liters of soup.
Anastasia KOMISSAROVA, pos. Nikolsky Kostroma region. Photo of the author
As you want, but personally I can’t imagine myself in the kitchen and my garden without an old glorious vegetable - table beet. I grow it little by little, but several long-tested varieties of different ripening periods. Of the earlier, I like Egyptian flat (very, very sweet!), Of mid-season Bordeaux 237 (the most popular among gardeners), Hawsky (very tasty, with thin roots, like a turnip) and Incomparable (rounded root vegetables with dark tasty flesh) . Of the late-ripening ones, one-sprouted (after emergence does not require thinning) and cylinder (delicate in taste and cooked quickly). However, quite a lot of promising new varieties have now appeared, which means it makes sense to resume beetroot trials again: starting this spring, I will plant one new variety every year.
Now I will share some observations. Since beet seeds are “grouped” in 2-3 pieces in glomeruli, then 2-3 plants grow from each, which then requires timely thinning. So this operation is inevitable, and you need to come to terms with it (the exception is the Odnorostkovaya variety, whose name speaks for itself). Since the fertility has a hard shell, pre-planting their processing there is no special sense. I plant beets with dry seeds in mid-May.
If planted earlier, the beets can let out flower stalks and not give root crops, as it does not tolerate low temperatures. But this culture easily tolerates transplantation, so that the “extra” plants remaining after thinning will take root quickly and without problems. Therefore, by the way, beets can be grown through seedlings, if you want to get an early harvest.
The best predecessors are cucumbers, potatoes, early cabbage. I prepare beds in the fall, introducing dolomite flour and ash, and in the spring - compost. Since I have heavy sod-podzolic soil (and beets, on the contrary, like light, with a neutral reaction), I plant seeds only along the edge of the beds, and always get good crops. In the center, I plant cauliflower, root celery and leek.
Twice per season I spray the beets with a solution of boron (2 g per 10l of water, and I grow boric acid in hot water, otherwise it is poorly soluble).
If I see that the leaves turn red in the plants, I water the flower bed with salt water (a glass of salt on 10 l), which at the same time serves as a preventive measure against beet flies. 2-3 times during the season I feed with complex fertilizers containing a minimum of nitrogen (so that nitrates do not accumulate in the roots). I selectively pick up beets in the summer for food, and spend the main cleaning in September. Keep in sugar bags, stacked in a hole.
© Author: Nadezhda MINAKOVA
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Winter beets - late autumn sowing and VARIETIES: instructions from agricultural sciences
- Growing and cleaning of beets
- Beetroot (not to thin)
- Beet top dressing - folk remedies
- How to grow the earliest beets (Novosibirsk region)
- Growing beets in the Orenburg region - planting and care
- Growing beets in the Kirov region - varieties and care
- When to remove sugar beet
- Winter beet planting - what are its huge advantages
- Beet cleaning
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Beets can serve as a kind of indicator of the general state of the gastrointestinal tract. To find out how he feels, conduct a kind of test.
Need to drink 2 Art. l fresh beet juice, wait a bit and see what came of you. If the urine is painted in beet color, then this means that the gastrointestinal tract is in poor condition. Liver and kidneys also work poorly: the more beet color in urine, the worse their condition.
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For many years I suffered from beets.
It happened that in some years even the tops for beetroot can not be narrated - the leaves are stunted, reddish in color. And then she found out that this vegetable, like no other, completely does not tolerate acidic soil. So, maybe my acidity is high in my area?
Now in stores they sell cheap instruments for measuring acidity. I purchased, checked the pH and was horrified - less than 4! This is a very acidic soil. Not only beets are tormented in such a land, but also carrots, daikon, radishes - in general, all root crops.
The autumn before last I bought a dolomite flour and generously sprinkled the beds, slightly covering the additive with the chopper in the soil. Contributed from the calculation of 500 g for 1 square. m. Who does not have such acidic soil, the dosage can be reduced to 100-200. Just keep in mind that dolomite flour can not be added together with urea and ammonium nitrate. Bad it is also combined with manure.
If the joint use of additives can not be avoided, first scatter the dolomite flour on the bed, and then dung. Dig up.
The result after the introduction of dolomite flour I felt already last season. For the first time I managed to collect, let not a huge, but very decent harvest of beets.
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Beetroot loves sunny places and does not tolerate neighborhood with weeds. Therefore, the beet garden is cooked in a sunny place and always in time I am pruning all the weed grass. Never have a bed where the mocryla and plantain grew. These plants like to settle on acidic soils, but the beet on such a land will wither.
I pay special attention to the beet when sowing and at the beginning of its growth. First, you need to properly prepare the seeds. I pour them over the night with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate and add the mashed aloe leaf. Secondly, we must make weeding and thinning in time. If belated with thinning, the plants will start to oppress each other, that is, the formation of the root will slow down. Then, if the soil is fertile, it is enough just to water the beetroot.
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I want to talk about how I get an early beet crop. It should not be much, since it is unsuitable for storage, the whole crop immediately goes to the kitchen. I wreck early in mid-March. In a plastic form I pour garden soil, stockpiled in the fall. The layer should be about 5 cm. Then I spread the seeds - one at a time. And sprinkle on top with a centimeter layer of soil.
I need a form for planting - I have a plastic box from the cake (with a lid). After sowing, I thoroughly spray the soil and cover it with a lid. The seeds will germinate there. As soon as the land in the greenhouse approaches, I plant the beets there (without preliminary picking). I plant in rows along the beds so that the beets do not interfere with the planting of the main greenhouse crops - cucumbers and tomatoes.
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All grow in the garden beet red, and I have yellow! I plant a variety of Golden Globes. This is an early-ripening variety with root crops, differing in yellow tender flesh. Hard fibers are hardly found in it, and the roots themselves are like picking.
Beetroot does not tolerate frosts, but moderate cooling does not harm it, so I grow a culture by direct sowing in the ground. At the end of April (or at the beginning of May, depending on the weather) I feed humus with humus, add bone meal (100 g per 1 sq. M), loosen the soil, make transverse grooves and sow seeds. The Golden Globe loves sunlight, so the bed should be well lit most of the day. Regular care - weeding, preventing pests and watering (if moisture is not enough, root crops can grow dry and hard). I harvest in the fall - I cut the leaves, leaving 2 cm, clean the soil and dry. Then I pour the beets into the cellar - it is stored without problems, remaining strong and juicy for 4-5 months.
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In the spring, he sowed beet seeds in several places and at different times. On one bed, all the plants went into the arrow. Why? Leonid Katz, Klin
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At the table beet, the phase of vernalization is short. In cold wet weather, the beet passes quickly and blooms - that's why it is not necessary to hurry with its sowing.
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Planting beetroot in the same place from year to year, I planted beet nematodes to such an extent that my entire crop of beets was flawed root crops with brown spots.
In this case, nematodes are almost impossible to detect, because the size of the adult larva 0,2-1,3 mm. They live in the soil, are very prolific and for the summer can give offspring 4-5 times. Hibernating nematodes in the soil, as a rule, in the same beet tail, which eventually withered and disappears under the influence of gluttonous larvae.
Fighting nematodes is necessary. The most important thing is that you do not need to prevent their occurrence in the soil and observe crop rotation. Inhibit pests planting marigolds and rye, the roots of which secrete substances harmful to them. And also it is necessary to sow siderates, the roots of which the nematodes love (oil radish, mustard), and then weed out the crops and burn them. Nematodes will remain in the roots of distant plants.
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Usually we don’t complain about the crops, but for some reason beets do not grow stubbornly ...
Igor Lapitsa, Mr. Petrikov
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There are several reasons for this.
The soil is important: the table beet loves fertile soils (therefore, about a year before sowing beet seeds, 10 kg of rotted manure per 1 sq. M.) With a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. On acid soil, beetroot will not grow, therefore such soil is limed, bringing in an autumn digging along 200 g of lime for 1 sq.m.
Beetroots need light for full-fledged crops, so the plants do not thicken (the optimal scheme is 10 × 30 cm) and are regularly weeded.
The cold year can also negatively affect. If a temperature of + 12 ... + 13 degrees is kept for many days in a row, you can’t count on high yields. In such a period, it is better to cover the plants with a film (throw it on the arms). It is especially good if such a guy-chock is over beets at the very beginning of summer, when nights are cold.
Beet yields a mean crop with a deficit of moisture, so watering should be frequent, but unaffiliated. Usually, 1 sq.m is spent on a bucket of water every 2-3 days. Especially in the moisture of beet needs during the emergence of shoots and when roots begin to form.
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Beetroot has a beneficial effect on digestion, so every year I plant it on 2 large beds. But the harvest, as you know, little to grow, it must be preserved.
I clean the beets before the frost, as they can spoil it. I dig out root crops with a shovel or a pitchfork for digging, and it is necessary in dry sunny weather. I clean the crop from the ground and send it to dry. For dried beets, I cut off the side roots and tops, leaving only 1-2 cm of stalks. I store root crops with a diameter of 9-11 cm for storage. They are stored best. Small root crops often wrinkle, large ones rot. I store the selected beetroot in the basement in boxes with slightly damp sand. From time to time, I sort through beets to remove damaged root crops.
The beets I have kept until the very spring, and sometimes longer. I use it to make borsch and salads. Due to the regular inclusion of beets in the diet, I practically stopped experiencing digestive problems and forgot what constipation is
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When to sow beets?
Since we have late spring and short summer, we always sow beets for the winter.
The snow cover melts slowly enough, and the seeds have time to be saturated with moisture, swell and quickly germinate. In addition, the beet ripens for a long time, about 2-3 months, and thanks to podzimnemu crop shoots appear earlier. In addition, under the snow cover, the seeds are strengthened immunity, and the shoots grow strong.
We sow the seeds in a well-sprinkled and cleaned from the weeds of grass, on which cabbage or potatoes have previously grown. Perekopkoy usually dealt with in September, until the land is not frozen. Then we add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, as well as ash and humus. Place for beets choose sunny. Sow better on a dry day, as excess moisture can provoke germination of seeds and frost then destroy them. On the eve of the cold weather, we cover the planting of mulch from peat and sawdust, which we clean in the beginning of spring, so that the seeds do not get out.
The favorite variety we plant in the fall is the Red Ball. His root crops are large and strong, the beets are obtained in a beautiful purple hue, juicy and with a delicate sweet taste. In addition, this variety is characterized by productivity and frost resistance.
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Lovers of southern beets
Previously, I lived near Novgorod, and recently moved to my sister in the Rostov region. I went to the garden-what a beauty! In our cold loam, nothing of the kind is possible. But when I started to farm, I was sure-there are unexpected difficulties awaiting me here. For example, unfamiliar to me pests.
I have always considered beets a culture that pests bypass. In the north, the beet fly rarely, rarely does not affect the quality of the crop. Here she turns into a real misfortune. And there are many other beetroot lovers. If you do not keep track, then the first spring shoots can be completely destroyed by beet weevil. Wintered beetles feed on young weed shoots - swan, gauze, shiritsa, and then spread
on the sowing of beets. If the plants survive, then normally they will not be allowed to grow larvae of weevils, gnawing roots.
No less terrible is the beetroot miner moth. When I first saw the beet leaves covered with caterpillars, I could not believe my eyes. Caterpillars with great appetite gnawed not only the tops, but also root crops!
The main methods of pest control are agrotechnical. It is necessary to strictly observe crop rotation, to fight weeds, and to dig beds in late autumn. From the garden you need to remove all plant debris, severely damaged do not lay in compost, but burn. In case of a massive lesion, one has to resort to spraying with chemicals, but this can be done at least a month before the harvest.
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When harvesting, the housewives are often upset if part of the beet grows shallow or wiry. And I
to all non-standard * I find excellent use - I let in the winter for distillation of delicate vitamin greens. It is only important that the root crops are healthy. You need to remove them before frost, but in good weather, the longer the beetroot is sitting in the ground, the better.
When harvesting, I carefully dig up root crops, do not cut the tops, but "twist" so as not to damage the growth zone. I slightly dry the crop in the sun and store it in the basement, filling it with sand.
For forcing roots close to each other I plant in containers filled with a moistened mixture of garden land and peat soil-
of the soil. Heads on 1-2 cm should stick out above the ground surface.
The first 1-2 weeks I keep the containers in the corridor - it's cooler there, but the light is not needed yet. When the buds on the root crops wake up, I endure the planting on the windowsill and only after that I start to water a little. In the darkest time, from November to February, I turn on the additional backlight for several hours, from March you can already do without it.
Still approximately through 2 weeks young leaves grow so that they can be used for preparation of beetroots. Depending on the supply of food in the root crops, harvesting from one planting can be 3-4 times.
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After squeezing the juice from the beets, you still have a cake - do not throw it away. The juice itself is very healthy, and the cake too. Roll small balls the size of a round candy out of it (remember, were there such yellowish sugars before?) And put them in the refrigerator. These balls have a lot of fiber. which helps to cleanse the body and normalize bowel function. Eat 4-5 such balls a day half an hour before meals, only 3-4 times a day.
Galina Semenovna
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This year, we have not at all beetroot. Rare, small, low leaf, generally sluggish. And it tastes like grass. Tell us how to grow it, water it, fertilize it? I would like to still achieve a good harvest, at least for the next year.
Tatyana Govorushenko
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My beet grows glorious! Roots are strong, sweet, and ask on the table. Such results are helped me to achieve fertilizing, which I prepare myself.
Beetroot loves loose soil, just such in my area - sandy. But the “reverse side” of sand is that it does not retain moisture and fertilizers poorly. I decided to compact the soil a little. The husband laid on it a thin layer of clay that retains moisture and nutrients, and poured our sandy soil on top, adding also humus and peat, 2 cups of ash and 1 tbsp. l borofoski.
I always choose a sunny place for the bed so that the beets grow well. In the second half of July I spend thinning - I leave 15-20 cm between the plants. I pull out the remaining root crops and use it for food.
In our sandy soil, there is not enough boron, so in July I feed beets with boric acid (10 g for 10 L of hot water). And that the beet became sweeter, I add salt (1 tsp to 10l water) into the water.
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We are talking about beets, which I have been successfully growing for many years. Without proper care, you cannot grow a good crop. Let's start by buying seeds. Usually I try not to plant one variety. Different land, weather conditions. Beet varieties are round and cylindrical. So, I plant two varieties of rounded shape (Pablo F1, Bordeaux 237, for example) and a variety of cylindrical shape (Mono or Egyptian flat, about which you asked). Egyptian flat - the root crop is cylindrical, dark red, with delicate, juicy pulp, excellent taste.
And now I will explain why I plant more than one variety. If the summer is rainy, snails can enjoy a sweet beetroot, which all lies on the ground - these are varieties of a cylindrical shape, including and Egyptian flat. Before planting, I soak the seeds for 1 hours in a solution of boric acid (2 g per glass of water). The sowing date is the third decade of May. I make grooves, I shed well with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sowing depth 2 cm, sprinkle with earth and slightly compacted, then mulch with humus (layer 10 cm). Over the summer I do top dressing: the first - 15-XNUMX days after emergence, the second - during the maximum growth of tops, the third - during the formation of root crops.
For the first two I breed a mullein (1: 10) with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer (10 l at 2 sq. M). Third feeding: 2 glass of ash at 1 sq. M. m and a solution of table salt (1 tbsp per bucket of water). If there is no mullein, I pour with the fermented grass with the addition of mineral fertilizer.
I forgot to say - this is for beginning summer residents: the seeds of hybrids (with the letter F1) are not soaked. You can plant beets with carrots: in the center of the garden along two rows of carrots, along the edges along a row of beets, and also plant on the edges of the ridge with onions. You pick up onions early, beets freely. But sometimes root crops of such magnitude grow that you do not know where to put them. In the countryside, everything would go to livestock feed, but in the city you don’t know how to deal with them. Therefore, I plant rows 5-6 separately, then thin out, so the beets grow smaller, which is more convenient when cooking.