18

18 Review (s)

  1. Anna Antonovna LUGOVA, Penza

    Beets can serve as a kind of indicator of the general state of the gastrointestinal tract. To find out how he feels, conduct a kind of test.

    Need to drink 2 Art. l fresh beet juice, wait a bit and see what came of you. If the urine is painted in beet color, then this means that the gastrointestinal tract is in poor condition. Liver and kidneys also work poorly: the more beet color in urine, the worse their condition.

    Reply
  2. Elizabeth KIRILLOVA, Veliky Novgorod

    For many years I suffered from beets.

    It happened that in some years even the tops for beetroot can not be narrated - the leaves are stunted, reddish in color. And then she found out that this vegetable, like no other, completely does not tolerate acidic soil. So, maybe my acidity is high in my area?
    Now in stores they sell cheap instruments for measuring acidity. I purchased, checked the pH and was horrified - less than 4! This is a very acidic soil. Not only beets are tormented in such a land, but also carrots, daikon, radishes - in general, all root crops.
    The autumn before last I bought a dolomite flour and generously sprinkled the beds, slightly covering the additive with the chopper in the soil. Contributed from the calculation of 500 g for 1 square. m. Who does not have such acidic soil, the dosage can be reduced to 100-200. Just keep in mind that dolomite flour can not be added together with urea and ammonium nitrate. Bad it is also combined with manure.

    If the joint use of additives can not be avoided, first scatter the dolomite flour on the bed, and then dung. Dig up.
    The result after the introduction of dolomite flour I felt already last season. For the first time I managed to collect, let not a huge, but very decent harvest of beets.

    Reply
  3. Irina BESEDINA, Vyborg

    Beetroot loves sunny places and does not tolerate neighborhood with weeds. Therefore, the beet garden is cooked in a sunny place and always in time I am pruning all the weed grass. Never have a bed where the mocryla and plantain grew. These plants like to settle on acidic soils, but the beet on such a land will wither.
    I pay special attention to the beet when sowing and at the beginning of its growth. First, you need to properly prepare the seeds. I pour them over the night with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate and add the mashed aloe leaf. Secondly, we must make weeding and thinning in time. If belated with thinning, the plants will start to oppress each other, that is, the formation of the root will slow down. Then, if the soil is fertile, it is enough just to water the beetroot.

    Reply
  4. Alexandra V.

    I want to talk about how I get an early beet crop. It should not be much, since it is unsuitable for storage, the whole crop immediately goes to the kitchen. I wreck early in mid-March. In a plastic form I pour garden soil, stockpiled in the fall. The layer should be about 5 cm. Then I spread the seeds - one at a time. And sprinkle on top with a centimeter layer of soil.

    I need a form for planting - I have a plastic box from the cake (with a lid). After sowing, I thoroughly spray the soil and cover it with a lid. The seeds will germinate there. As soon as the land in the greenhouse approaches, I plant the beets there (without preliminary picking). I plant in rows along the beds so that the beets do not interfere with the planting of the main greenhouse crops - cucumbers and tomatoes.

    Reply
  5. Tamara Panova, Veliky Novgorod

    All grow in the garden beet red, and I have yellow! I plant a variety of Golden Globes. This is an early-ripening variety with root crops, differing in yellow tender flesh. Hard fibers are hardly found in it, and the roots themselves are like picking.

    Beetroot does not tolerate frosts, but moderate cooling does not harm it, so I grow a culture by direct sowing in the ground. At the end of April (or at the beginning of May, depending on the weather) I feed humus with humus, add bone meal (100 g per 1 sq. M), loosen the soil, make transverse grooves and sow seeds. The Golden Globe loves sunlight, so the bed should be well lit most of the day. Regular care - weeding, preventing pests and watering (if moisture is not enough, root crops can grow dry and hard). I harvest in the fall - I cut the leaves, leaving 2 cm, clean the soil and dry. Then I pour the beets into the cellar - it is stored without problems, remaining strong and juicy for 4-5 months.

    Reply
  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    In the spring, he sowed beet seeds in several places and at different times. On one bed, all the plants went into the arrow. Why? Leonid Katz, Klin

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      At the table beet, the phase of vernalization is short. In cold wet weather, the beet passes quickly and blooms - that's why it is not necessary to hurry with its sowing.

      Reply
  7. Anna BOLSHAKOVA, Yoshkar-Ola

    Planting beetroot in the same place from year to year, I planted beet nematodes to such an extent that my entire crop of beets was flawed root crops with brown spots.

    In this case, nematodes are almost impossible to detect, because the size of the adult larva 0,2-1,3 mm. They live in the soil, are very prolific and for the summer can give offspring 4-5 times. Hibernating nematodes in the soil, as a rule, in the same beet tail, which eventually withered and disappears under the influence of gluttonous larvae.

    Fighting nematodes is necessary. The most important thing is that you do not need to prevent their occurrence in the soil and observe crop rotation. Inhibit pests planting marigolds and rye, the roots of which secrete substances harmful to them. And also it is necessary to sow siderates, the roots of which the nematodes love (oil radish, mustard), and then weed out the crops and burn them. Nematodes will remain in the roots of distant plants.

    Reply
  8. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Usually we don’t complain about the crops, but for some reason beets do not grow stubbornly ...
    Igor Lapitsa, Mr. Petrikov

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      There are several reasons for this.
      The soil is important: the table beet loves fertile soils (therefore, about a year before sowing beet seeds, 10 kg of rotted manure per 1 sq. M.) With a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. On acid soil, beetroot will not grow, therefore such soil is limed, bringing in an autumn digging along 200 g of lime for 1 sq.m.
      Beetroots need light for full-fledged crops, so the plants do not thicken (the optimal scheme is 10 × 30 cm) and are regularly weeded.
      The cold year can also negatively affect. If a temperature of + 12 ... + 13 degrees is kept for many days in a row, you can’t count on high yields. In such a period, it is better to cover the plants with a film (throw it on the arms). It is especially good if such a guy-chock is over beets at the very beginning of summer, when nights are cold.
      Beet yields a mean crop with a deficit of moisture, so watering should be frequent, but unaffiliated. Usually, 1 sq.m is spent on a bucket of water every 2-3 days. Especially in the moisture of beet needs during the emergence of shoots and when roots begin to form.

      Reply
  9. Valery ARTYUKHIN, Kursk

    Beetroot has a beneficial effect on digestion, so every year I plant it on 2 large beds. But the harvest, as you know, little to grow, it must be preserved.
    I clean the beets before the frost, as they can spoil it. I dig out root crops with a shovel or a pitchfork for digging, and it is necessary in dry sunny weather. I clean the crop from the ground and send it to dry. For dried beets, I cut off the side roots and tops, leaving only 1-2 cm of stalks. I store root crops with a diameter of 9-11 cm for storage. They are stored best. Small root crops often wrinkle, large ones rot. I store the selected beetroot in the basement in boxes with slightly damp sand. From time to time, I sort through beets to remove damaged root crops.
    The beets I have kept until the very spring, and sometimes longer. I use it to make borsch and salads. Due to the regular inclusion of beets in the diet, I practically stopped experiencing digestive problems and forgot what constipation is

    Reply
  10. Family AVDOSHEVYH, city of Veliky Novgorod

    When to sow beets?
    Since we have late spring and short summer, we always sow beets for the winter.
    The snow cover melts slowly enough, and the seeds have time to be saturated with moisture, swell and quickly germinate. In addition, the beet ripens for a long time, about 2-3 months, and thanks to podzimnemu crop shoots appear earlier. In addition, under the snow cover, the seeds are strengthened immunity, and the shoots grow strong.
    We sow the seeds in a well-sprinkled and cleaned from the weeds of grass, on which cabbage or potatoes have previously grown. Perekopkoy usually dealt with in September, until the land is not frozen. Then we add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, as well as ash and humus. Place for beets choose sunny. Sow better on a dry day, as excess moisture can provoke germination of seeds and frost then destroy them. On the eve of the cold weather, we cover the planting of mulch from peat and sawdust, which we clean in the beginning of spring, so that the seeds do not get out.
    The favorite variety we plant in the fall is the Red Ball. His root crops are large and strong, the beets are obtained in a beautiful purple hue, juicy and with a delicate sweet taste. In addition, this variety is characterized by productivity and frost resistance.

    Reply
  11. Tatyana KUSHCHENKO, Rostov region

    Lovers of southern beets
    Previously, I lived near Novgorod, and recently moved to my sister in the Rostov region. I went to the garden-what a beauty! In our cold loam, nothing of the kind is possible. But when I started to farm, I was sure-there are unexpected difficulties awaiting me here. For example, unfamiliar to me pests.
    I have always considered beets a culture that pests bypass. In the north, the beet fly rarely, rarely does not affect the quality of the crop. Here she turns into a real misfortune. And there are many other beetroot lovers. If you do not keep track, then the first spring shoots can be completely destroyed by beet weevil. Wintered beetles feed on young weed shoots - swan, gauze, shiritsa, and then spread
    on the sowing of beets. If the plants survive, then normally they will not be allowed to grow larvae of weevils, gnawing roots.
    No less terrible is the beetroot miner moth. When I first saw the beet leaves covered with caterpillars, I could not believe my eyes. Caterpillars with great appetite gnawed not only the tops, but also root crops!
    The main methods of pest control are agrotechnical. It is necessary to strictly observe crop rotation, to fight weeds, and to dig beds in late autumn. From the garden you need to remove all plant debris, severely damaged do not lay in compost, but burn. In case of a massive lesion, one has to resort to spraying with chemicals, but this can be done at least a month before the harvest.

    Reply
  12. Svetlana TERESHCHENKO, Tula

    When harvesting, the housewives are often upset if part of the beet grows shallow or wiry. And I
    to all non-standard * I find excellent use - I let in the winter for distillation of delicate vitamin greens. It is only important that the root crops are healthy. You need to remove them before frost, but in good weather, the longer the beetroot is sitting in the ground, the better.
    When harvesting, I carefully dig up root crops, do not cut the tops, but "twist" so as not to damage the growth zone. I slightly dry the crop in the sun and store it in the basement, filling it with sand.
    For forcing roots close to each other I plant in containers filled with a moistened mixture of garden land and peat soil-
    of the soil. Heads on 1-2 cm should stick out above the ground surface.
    The first 1-2 weeks I keep the containers in the corridor - it's cooler there, but the light is not needed yet. When the buds on the root crops wake up, I endure the planting on the windowsill and only after that I start to water a little. In the darkest time, from November to February, I turn on the additional backlight for several hours, from March you can already do without it.
    Still approximately through 2 weeks young leaves grow so that they can be used for preparation of beetroots. Depending on the supply of food in the root crops, harvesting from one planting can be 3-4 times.

    Reply
  13. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    After squeezing the juice from the beets, you still have a cake - do not throw it away. The juice itself is very healthy, and the cake too. Roll small balls the size of a round candy out of it (remember, were there such yellowish sugars before?) And put them in the refrigerator. These balls have a lot of fiber. which helps to cleanse the body and normalize bowel function. Eat 4-5 such balls a day half an hour before meals, only 3-4 times a day.
    Galina Semenovna

    Reply
  14. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    This year, we have not at all beetroot. Rare, small, low leaf, generally sluggish. And it tastes like grass. Tell us how to grow it, water it, fertilize it? I would like to still achieve a good harvest, at least for the next year.
    Tatyana Govorushenko

    Reply
  15. Ekaterina NOVIKOVA, Moscow Region

    My beet grows glorious! Roots are strong, sweet, and ask on the table. Such results are helped me to achieve fertilizing, which I prepare myself.
    Beetroot loves loose soil, just such in my area - sandy. But the “reverse side” of sand is that it does not retain moisture and fertilizers poorly. I decided to compact the soil a little. The husband laid on it a thin layer of clay that retains moisture and nutrients, and poured our sandy soil on top, adding also humus and peat, 2 cups of ash and 1 tbsp. l borofoski.
    I always choose a sunny place for the bed so that the beets grow well. In the second half of July I spend thinning - I leave 15-20 cm between the plants. I pull out the remaining root crops and use it for food.
    In our sandy soil, there is not enough boron, so in July I feed beets with boric acid (10 g for 10 L of hot water). And that the beet became sweeter, I add salt (1 tsp to 10l water) into the water.

    Reply
  16. Lyudmila Mityukhlyaeva, Kungur, Perm Region

    We are talking about beets, which I have been successfully growing for many years. Without proper care, you cannot grow a good crop. Let's start by buying seeds. Usually I try not to plant one variety. Different land, weather conditions. Beet varieties are round and cylindrical. So, I plant two varieties of rounded shape (Pablo F1, Bordeaux 237, for example) and a variety of cylindrical shape (Mono or Egyptian flat, about which you asked). Egyptian flat - the root crop is cylindrical, dark red, with delicate, juicy pulp, excellent taste.
    And now I will explain why I plant more than one variety. If the summer is rainy, snails can enjoy a sweet beetroot, which all lies on the ground - these are varieties of a cylindrical shape, including and Egyptian flat. Before planting, I soak the seeds for 1 hours in a solution of boric acid (2 g per glass of water). The sowing date is the third decade of May. I make grooves, I shed well with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sowing depth 2 cm, sprinkle with earth and slightly compacted, then mulch with humus (layer 10 cm). Over the summer I do top dressing: the first - 15-XNUMX days after emergence, the second - during the maximum growth of tops, the third - during the formation of root crops.
    For the first two I breed a mullein (1: 10) with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer (10 l at 2 sq. M). Third feeding: 2 glass of ash at 1 sq. M. m and a solution of table salt (1 tbsp per bucket of water). If there is no mullein, I pour with the fermented grass with the addition of mineral fertilizer.
    I forgot to say - this is for beginning summer residents: the seeds of hybrids (with the letter F1) are not soaked. You can plant beets with carrots: in the center of the garden along two rows of carrots, along the edges along a row of beets, and also plant on the edges of the ridge with onions. You pick up onions early, beets freely. But sometimes root crops of such magnitude grow that you do not know where to put them. In the countryside, everything would go to livestock feed, but in the city you don’t know how to deal with them. Therefore, I plant rows 5-6 separately, then thin out, so the beets grow smaller, which is more convenient when cooking.

    Reply

Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible