Works in mixborders (late spring-early summer)
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Required work in mixborders in early summer
In the middle and end of May, the lion's share of works in flower beds. Landing, cultivation, weeding ... The to-do list for this period is impressive, it is not surprising to miss something. But what if you make a list of all the events in advance and strictly follow them ?! Then the summer flowerbeds will be bright and lush
Division for reproduction
Where the spring turned out to be cold, you can still divide or transplant the rhizome perennials (astilba, delphinium, chrysanthemum, phlox, panicle, astra, New Belgian and New England). It is convenient to share old hosts in mid-May. She already appeared from under the ground, but she did not unfold the leaves, so that the plants will survive the transplantation painlessly, unlike plants with unfolded but not yet crumbly leaves. A little late, and the division will have to be set aside for September.
That plants already in this season looked quite decorative, on each delenka should be 3-5 of kidneys and a good lobe of roots.
I don’t want to divide the plant, but do I need to propagate? Try cuttings with a small "heel" -part of the rhizome. From one plant, no more than a third of the sprouts are 5-7 cm high. It is not necessary to dig out the bush, it is enough to dig on one side. Cuttings with a “heel” are planted in a greenhouse. The top layer of the substrate is 5 cm - clean river sand, garden soil below. The day before planting, you need to properly moisten the soil. The distance between the cuttings
All shared perennials in the summer require more thorough and regular watering of 5-6 cm, the lower part is buried by 1,5-2 cm. The lower leaves on the cuttings are cut by 2/3. Before rooting (it will take about two weeks at a temperature of 20 ° C), the greenhouse should be pritenit and regularly ventilated. This is how astilbe, phlox, nyvyanik, gaillardia, chrysanthemum are cut.
Do you want to delay the flowering of the phlox panicle for a couple of weeks? Wait until the shoots grow in the spring to 20 cm, and pinch. If you do this with a part of the shoots, the flowering of one bush will begin at the usual time, but it will last longer.
In May, almost all types of lilies can be propagated by scales. They dig out the onion or simply scoop up the earth and carefully break out several external scales. The wounds on the mother's bulb and on the scales need to be treated with an intense pink solution of potassium permanganate. Next, the onion is carefully sprinkled with earth. And the scales (healthy, unbroken and without suspicious stains) are “bathed” in a root solution, dried and dusted with a mixture of crushed coal with sulfur. Some flower growers use epin extra, zircon or succinic acid instead of a root stimulant. If you are reluctant to mess with planting in a box, you can plant the scales on a seedling bed at intervals of 5-6 cm, and between rows of 20-25 cm, deepening by 2/3 of the height. Mulch with dry peat crumbs and slightly pritenit.
See also: Flowers for mixborders - flowering: spring, summer and autumn
Who did not have time - he was late
If in April you did not have time to sow the flying machines, you can throw in the ground the seeds of marigold (low-growing varieties are often grown in a non-mown manner), marigolds, cosmeas, sweet peas. The ground before emergence must be constantly moist, so do not forget to sow the grooves before sowing, and in case of dry and hot weather, moisten the soil from the watering can with a small sieve.
The second decade of May, if weather forecasters do not predict a cooling, is the right time to plant nasturtium. Seeds need to be soaked the day before. Turkish carnation is sown from mid to late May, the bell is medium in late May, and digitalis is purple in late May and early June. You can immediately to a permanent place or first to a seedling bed, followed by moving to the flower garden in August or early September.
In the transfer to the garden according to the schedule
Gradual hardening and training to direct sunlight will allow the pampered seedlings to better transfer the moving from the room to the flower garden. Often aired, for half an hour a day, take out flowers in the sun.
In the middle of May, when the soil warms up, it's time to plant the seedlings of the Shabo clove, the antirinuma (lion's pharynx), the sweet pea, the gillyflower, the lobularia, the scabiosa, the decorative cabbage in the open ground. Decoration flower beds immediately become bought with buds rosettes of pansies and daisies. But fully opened flowers should be removed. Plant in cloudy weather or in the evening.
In the third decade of May, you can move to the garden seedlings of lobelia, portolac, annual asters and chrysanthemums, verbena, phlox Drummond, ageratum. But marigolds, petunia, tuberous begonia, amaranth, zinnia, salvia, winged tobacco, primula seedlings, divided and grown dahlias to plant on the street while early. It is better to do this in the first decade of June, if not expected frost.
Gladioli, to start!
When to plant is not an idle question. Year to year is not necessary. It is more reliable to navigate by soil temperature. If warmed up at a depth of 10-12 cm to 8-10 ° C, it's time! The traditional way of treating corms before planting is soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate, infusion of wood ash or growth stimulants for 1-2 hours.
Note
To work in a large flower garden, do not crush the dug and leveled ground, place a broad board under your feet. But be careful not to crumple late waking perennials, such as a host.
The larger the diameter of the corms and the easier the soil, the deeper the gladioli plant. Large in average for 4-7 cm, counting from the bottom, small on 2-3, see. Many flower growers now follow recommendations to deepen on 8-12 cm, so that the flower stalk does not fall from the wind. But this is permissible only on light non-salty soils. By the way, on clay under the corms it is worth pouring sand, so that it removes excess moisture.
The distance between large corms in a row is from 15 cm, between rows 20-25 cm, and between children 5 and 12-15 cm, respectively. So grown for cutting.
The rules can be neglected and planted denser, so that the group of gladiolus looked spectacular. But then the risk of spreading fungal infections increases.
Spring top dressing
Do you think that it is necessary to fertilize herbaceous perennials several times during the season? So, make the first fertilizing with nitrogen, for example, at the end of May with ammonium nitrate from the calculation of 1,5-2 st. l / m2. The next feeding, with phosphorus and potassium, 2-3 a week later. For example, superphosphate (1 match, ca./m2) and potassium sulphate (0,5 st.l / 1 m2) Another option is the introduction in May of a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants. "Chemistry" should not fall on leaves, especially young ones, and on tops of shoots.
What in the middle of May to pamper the rose? Feed with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate or diluted 1: 10 slurry (it is better to insist it 3-4 days). In a couple of weeks, you can use a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, an aquarium or a firestone for roses.
Planted a few years ago, heather and eriku should be wrapped in semi-entrenched cow dung (3-4 shovels / m2). Or top up the granulated complex fertilizer. Suitable florovit for rhododendrons or fern spring-summer, but the rate of application indicated on the last drug should be reduced in 2-3 times. Distribute mulch and fertilizer, gently lifting the branches.
Do not forget about the main flower of the water corner of the garden - the pond nymphaeum. Bought a plant in a container? It must be immersed in water in May in warmed shallow water, and a little later rearranged to the depth recommended for this variety. And a water-lily piece must be urgently planted in a basket. By the way, adult water lilies are divided every 3-4 years. Maybe it's time?
A special basket must be lined with black non-woven inside. A suitable substrate is a mixture of garden soil, coarse-grained sand and completely rotted compost (water will quickly rot from a half-matured). Even under the roots, when planting, they are rolled balls made of clay and bone meal the size of a chicken egg.
After planting, the soil should be compacted and covered with a thin layer of clay, lay on it the free edges of the nettle and press them down with flat stones. It is important not to close, not close and do not cover the point of growth at the water lily. Now carefully pour the basket to saturate the soil with water and wash away the remains of clay.
To dump a basket in a pond it is necessary slowly, holding stones, that the rhizome has not emerged.
Find and neutralize
With the awakening of the garden, various garden pests are increasingly active. You need to wash off the soap with a soapy solution or use a phytoverm, antitlin, an acaru, biotlin Bau, Bau colorflow, a spark, an infusion of tobacco dust.
From slugs, eating young shoots, planting mulch needles, dust the soil with lime, ash, superphosphate, tobacco dust. If you spread old raw boards in the flower garden in the evening and even spread cabbage leaves, the slugs will surely gather under these shelters. They are easy to find here. But when there are a lot of pests, one will have to use “heavy artillery” against them — preparations of a thunderstorm, slug-eater.
They are about to remind themselves of fungal infections, especially in the rosary. Last season there were problems? Immediately after the spring pruning it is necessary to conduct the first preventive treatment. You can use topaz, pure color, phytosporium-M, Bordeaux mixture.
Now that does not heal at all. These are viral infections. The signs are very different. For example, small or deformed flowers, changing the length of the petals, speckled mosaic on the leaves. Quite often the virus attacks tulips. Many summer residents encountered variegation (vertical strokes and strips on petals). Year after year, the infected plants become weaker, the stem shortens, the buds grow smaller, crevices are visible at the base.
The virus is transmitted from the plant to the plant. Insects that feed on cell sap, and the cottagers themselves, who cut flowers for a bouquet, not sterilizing the blade. It is necessary to get rid of sick specimens as soon as possible. Dig them up with a clod of earth and burn it.
Reference by topic: An example of registration of a mixborder with rhododendrons - a scheme of planting flowers
Tops and roots
Large bulbs are in bloom, while the small fry is already preparing for the summer dormancy. In fading small-bulbous “tops” it is impossible to cut, otherwise flowering in the next season will be weaker. But the seed boxes will have to be cut off, without waiting for the seeds to ripen, so that the sprouts and snowdrops do not disperse throughout the garden, turning into pretty weeds.
In your garden, where one or two grow up daffodils and tulips, left there after numerous alterations of flower beds? We should collect them in one heap, but until the hands reach, the bulbs can not be found. You can mark these places by stuck in the ground or lawn bright yellow or red plugs from plastic bottles.
It happens that a herbaceous perennial (phlox, evening primrose, perennial aster) began to die in the center of the bush. This is noticeable in weak and shallow shoots. Division and transplantation are not yet included in the plans? A temporary measure is the removal of the middle of the bush. This can be done with a sharpened shovel or garden drill. The hole must be filled with dry soil, then water the plant with phytosporin-M.
Now advice to those who do not cut tulips and daffodils for bouquets. As soon as they start to fade, cut the flowers, but do not touch the stems. This method is used in hothouse facilities, however, they break out the buds that have not yet blossomed. That's why the purchased bulbs are so big!
Do-it-yourself mixborder - interesting video
Making a Mixborder - Part 2
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If you want to decorate your flower garden with bright flowers, plant in it a yellow evening. The plant blooms very richly and magnificently.
In the people this plant is called the night candle, evening primrose, lunnik. And this is due to the fact that the flowers of evening primrose blossom in the evening, but if the plant grows in the penumbra, they will be open in the afternoon.
Enotera easily multiplies both by seeds and by dividing the bush. I propagated the plant vegetatively. The evening dressed in evening, planted in spring, but you can do it in the autumn (in September-October). By the way, the plant easily tolerates transplantation even in blossoming condition. Before planting, the primrose soil was filled with humus (2-3 kg at 1 sq. M). At us the enotera grows already about 3 years, gives plentiful samosev. I inexperienced planted this plant in the foreground of the flower garden, and now it begins to oppress the growing annuals. So it's better to plant it in a separate flowerbed.
During the flowering period, I feed evening primrose with potassium sulfate - 1 tbsp. l per 1 square. m. I water the plant only during drought or heat, as it is quite drought tolerant.
After blossoming, I trim the evening primrose under the root. For the winter I do not hide anything, but in the conditions of the Central strip it is better to cover the plant with peat or compost.