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22 Review (s)

  1. V. KUDRYAVTSEVA Sredneuralsk

    For a long time I tried to grow cauliflower, but all the time I made some mistakes. Only this year, luck smiled at me. The daughter-in-law Oksana planted seedlings - brought in the form of two leaves at the end of May. I put it in the greenhouse for a week, and I myself began to prepare beds for other vegetables. I prepared the beds 3 m long as follows: removed the top layer 5-10 cm, and laid down stems from flowers, grass that did not rot over the winter, they were very thick. Then she returned the earth to the stems.

    And then the eldest son Viktor said that I chose the wrong place: there is not enough sun behind the greenhouse. And I wanted to plant two zucchini and two pumpkins here! But I had to agree, and I decided to plant cauliflower here.
    I made holes, put a little ash and poured. She planted in the evening and not on a sunny day, then watering every other day.
    Seedlings got accustomed perfectly: 12 from 15 roots. Bushes grew and pleased with their greens, twice I fed them with a solution of A.P. Bessaraba. I loosened every 10 days, sprayed ashes once for prevention, but surprisingly did not observe any pests.

    The leaves were bright, dark green, powerful. The first three heads of cabbage plucked large ones - 25 cm in diameter, the next three -15 cm, then 10 cm.
    Yes, I forgot to say that I cut off the first heads at the very beginning of August.
    In general, it turned out a good harvest. I was inspired, I will now be sure to plant cauliflower. And in the new season I'll try broccoli.

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  2. N. KOSTINA Bryansk Region

    I finally managed to “conquer” the cauliflower. Usually she gave small coaches, decent, of course, but she wanted more. And this year I planted it on the garden after squash (and under them, respectively, laid the compost with manure). Made, as usual, complex fertilizer for digging and planted seedlings.

    At first, the plants developed slowly, in spite of top dressing with fermented grass and infusion of chicken manure, but then the roots reached the “tasty” soil - and the cabbage grew.

    Huge burdock-leaves ... and not a hint of heads. Frosts were approaching, and as a last resort I decided to spray the plants with boric acid (it improves fruit setting on tomatoes, maybe it will work on cabbage). And it worked! Literally in a matter of weeks, heads worthy of leaf were formed, the largest of which were on the edge of the bed, where oregano grew. Apparently, such a neighborhood cabbage was to taste. By the way, these plants practically did not touch the caterpillars.

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  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    I want to share last year's experience in growing cauliflower. I bought seedlings at the market, the bushes looked very seductive - they were strong, green, and they asked for a bed.

    They brought them, the weather was sunny, so they planted them in the “mud”: poured the holes plentifully, broke twigs in the forest and stuck two twigs to each bush of seedlings - on both sides of the bush. I began to observe how plants will develop. Last year, the summer was cool, just to my seedling's liking. And it grew perfectly, gained strength, but heavy rains became frequent, snails -threats for all plants, especially for cabbage, multiplied in the garden. I thought what to do, remembered what readers of the Summer House recommend. Here is one of the recipes.

    For each bush of cabbage poured pounded eggshell. And snails, and slugs did not have the chance to treat my cabbage. But then another attack - in July, the butterfly butterflies granted. We must also outwit them. And again I remembered the recipe of readers of our beautiful magazine-stuck the sticks (above the plants) and placed the same eggshell on their ends, not just pounded, but "caps" (photo 1). And this method worked: there were no caterpillars, the inflorescences were intact, without damage. Then I gently tied the largest leaves above the inflorescences so that they remained white, and in August I already harvested (photo 2 and 3).

    Here such simple actions, and the crop turned out quite good. This year I do everything the same way, just planted, except for colored, broccoli cabbage.
    Anastasia KALININA

    cvetnaya-kapusta-uhod

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  4. Oksana DEMYANENKO

    Harvest of cauliflower did not disappoint, although I had to work hard. The fact is that this culture is very sensitive to cold weather. For normal growth, cabbage needs at least + 18 degrees. Young plants withstand short-term freezing up to -3 degrees, but the formed heads, even at -1 ... -2 degrees, die. Therefore, the seedlings were planted in the ground when the weather was warm. A place for cabbage beds was allocated in the aisles of the garden and next to tall plants.
    Already formed heads pritenyala spunbond. If it did not, then from direct sunlight cabbage would turn yellow and quickly broke up into inflorescences. Did not allow the land to dry up - watered often, but unprivileged, especially carefully after watering followed at the time of formation of the heads.
    As soon as the first ovaries appeared, they fed cabbage.
    In a bucket of Mullein Solution (1: 6) added 30-40 g ashes. Poured on 2 l fertilizing for each plant.
    Through 2-3 weeks, I fertilized with mineral fertilizers: 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 70 g superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride dissolved in a bucket of water - poured over 1 l per plant.

    Even after 2-3 weeks repeated the procedure, but this time dissolved in a bucket of water 15 grams of ammonium nitrate, 90 g superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride.

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  5. Herman Sitnikov, Penza

    To get a good harvest of cauliflower, special attention is paid to fertilizing.
    When leafy rosettes grow actively, I spray the cabbage with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer. If this is not done, the plants may not have enough nutrition, the heads will not form or will be very small. For the season, I feed the plants 2-3 times with infusion of cow manure (insist and dilute with water 1:10) or nettles. I do nettle top dressing like this: I chop the plants - it should turn out half a bucket - and fill it with water.

    I insist a minimum of a week (but better longer). I scoop the 2-liter scoop of infusion, pour into the 10-liter bucket, top up the water and feed the cabbage. In addition, I increase the watering in the drought. A day later in the evenings, I water abundantly under the root or turn on the sprinkler.

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  6. Maria KONEVA, city of Kaluga

    Last year winter came early. Cauliflower managed to grow large leaves, but the heads were small. To work is not wasted, I decided to grow cabbage in a greenhouse. For this, he dug a trench 15-20 deep in it.
    Cultivation occurs due to the outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the heads, so I left all leaves, did not break off. Cabbage neatly dug and planted obliquely in the prepared trenches. So that the leaves do not wilt and suffer less from the cold, we covered the cabbage with wooden shields, which were made by the husband.

    Before strong frosts, sawdust was added to the boards as an additional insulation. On top covered the greenhouse with old blankets.
    So warmed the greenhouse and left for the city. We arrived only with the first snow. And what do you think? When we got the cabbage from the greenhouse, it was tselionhkaya! And the heads even became larger!

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  7. Julia Andreevna Smurkina, Moscow

    The garden has been feeding us delicious and healthy vegetables for many years. Planting different vegetables, trying new products, you will gradually find out their features. Over the years of gardening, I realized that cauliflower is very sensitive to ambient temperature. If in the spring it suddenly drops to + 4 ... + 5 ° С, then the inflorescences can be crushed.

    Due to hot weather with high night temperatures, the inflorescences also become small and, as a result, are not so tasty. Therefore, in the heat, not only regularly water the beds in the evening, but also spray the plantings. This summer has become optimal in temperature for my cauliflower, because she likes it when it’s about + 18 ... + 20 ° C in the yard.

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  8. Julia LUNEVA

    I adore cauliflower, I plant a garden every year.

    In order not to miss the moment of harvesting, every 2-3 day I check the inflorescence. It is necessary to have time to cut them before they become soft. In hot dry weather cabbage ripens very quickly, and it is necessary to check it more often.

    To inflorescences developed slower and gain weight, I shade them from the scorching sun: I cover it with a thin spunbond or simply connect the side leaves in the shape of a dome by twine.

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  9. Karina MOKHOVA, Kursk

    I bought purple cabbage seeds to play a trick on my mother - her name is Klara, and the variety is called Coral Klara. Solemnly handed “corals” to my mother, but she didn’t appreciate my present and said that I myself grew cauliflower, and that it was enough trouble for her with white cabbage.

    I had to tackle the “corals” - I planted the seeds in the greenhouse in early May. And in June, transplanted cabbage to a permanent place in the open ground. Survival rate -100%!
    Moreover, it was cool nights, but not a single plantlet was harmed - indeed, as was written on the bag with seeds, the variety was resistant to temperature extremes.
    When the heads began to form, I planted the plants. Watered almost every day and 1 once a summer fed a solution of complex mineral fertilizers (dissolved according to the instructions on the package). Cabbage actively accumulates nitrates, so it's not worth while zealous with mineral fertilizers.

    "Corals" grew up excellent! Even mom liked the purple cabbage! This year, not only Coral Clara sowed, but also mid-ripening varieties with a ripening period of about 120 days - Purple Ball and Purple.

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  10. Anatoly BUKCHIN, Cheboksary

    Year 3 in a row I could not grow a good cauliflower. The heads, for some reason, were not tied or were very small. But at 4-th year I finally got a wonderful harvest, because I took into account all the mistakes of previous years.

    Cabbage for seedlings must be planted immediately in large pots. I take containers with a diameter of 10 cm. Plants are important in space, it is necessary that they are initially strong, with large leaves. After all, if the seedlings are frail, with undeveloped leaves, then you can not wait for large heads later.
    Planting seedlings in the open ground is necessary when there is no danger of nocturnal frosts. If the young cabbage freezes, its development will slow down sharply, and the heads as a result will grow small, loose.
    Top dressing should be regular. Under each plant, when planting in the ground, I pour 1 cup of wood ash - this is an excellent growth stimulator. And when the seedlings grow, I feed her with an infusion of manure, to which I add superphosphate. I do top dressing a couple of times with an interval of 2-3 weeks.

    Cabbage does not tolerate heat and drought. If the temperature is higher than 25 °, the heads are formed loose, especially if there is little moisture. Therefore I water cabbage regularly, and in drought I increase watering.

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  11. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Tell me, are there any varieties of cauliflower that can protect the head from the sun? E. Shkulamov Moscow Region.

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      Older varieties have a looser head and, under the influence of light, scatter quickly enough. But now new hybrids designed for industrial cleaning and transportation have been launched. The integumentary leaves reliably protect the head from damage and sunlight, and it itself is stronger, uniform, white and does not crumble. The words - the head closed on a bag with seeds testifies to this particular feature of the hybrid. V. MASLOV, agronomist

      Reply
  12. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    ■ Cauliflower inflorescences are ready for use in 80-120 days from the time of emergence. But they go to food at the stage of undisclosed buds. And how long should flowers be given seeds?
    Getting seeds from cauliflower is a very long and time-consuming process that lasts longer than a warm season. Usually seedlings are started growing in warmed greenhouses in winter, so that the heads are formed by May. The seeds are left with the most healthy specimens with pronounced varietal traits. Royal plants require special care with a verified scheme of fertilizing and stimulation. By the end of June, the heads begin to diverge, and longer stems-testes appear from them. It is on them pods with seeds are formed, which will ripen again in 50-60 days, late autumn. So it takes almost a year to get the seeds.

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  13. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Cauliflower is very demanding on the mechanical composition and soil fertility. The site should be without stagnation of water and cold air, with loose fertile soil, well lit by the sun. In the autumn, well-rotted manure or compost is brought into the garden, in the spring - a complex mineral fertilizer.
    Of all vegetables, cauliflower is most sensitive to the lack of microelements in the soil. It necessarily requires molybdenum, boron, magnesium. With their lack of heads do not tie at all or grow small and bitter. The soil should in no case be acidified, otherwise, even after the application of fertilizers, cabbage will not be able to extract microelements from it. Therefore,
    It is necessary to add lime, dolomite flour, ashes to acid soil.
    Not too good precursors for cauliflower will be sunflower, legumes, beets - they also consume a lot of boron and manganese, taking them out of the ground. It is best to plant cauliflower after cucumbers and pumpkins.
    The lack of molybdenum also leads to increased accumulation in the nitrate heads. It is especially dangerous that the first signs of a shortage of nitrogen and molybdenum are similar: the leaves evenly pale and slow growth. If at this point to feed cauliflower not with microelement, but with nitrogen fertilizer, then the heads will grow not only small, but also unsuitable for food.

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  14. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    The methods for growing cauliflower and cabbage are for the most part not too different.
    In April-May, seeds are planted in seedlings, and when the earth warms up well, plant it in the soil, ensuring between the plants a distance of at least 30-40 cm. When growing seedlings, it is important to keep it in coolness so as not to stretch. Age of seedlings should not exceed 4-5 weeks, with a later transplant, problems with tying the heads may occur.
    Any damage to the growth point can also be left without a crop - from simple cracking to gnawing by insects. Cabbage fly, earthen flea, rutabaga gall midge, cabbage white caterpillar tracks, slugs - in
    In general, any pests that feed on leaves can leave the cauliflower "headless". Broccoli then releases additional shoots from the axils of the leaves and still yields a small crop, while the remaining species will only grow leaves.
    Prevents headaches and lack of water or nutrients. Usually the heads appear after the 7th sheet - it is during this period that the care of the plantings should be especially careful. If the cabbage after the end of the period of starvation or drought can perk up and grow again, then cauliflower, which has missed an opportune moment, will no longer give heads.

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  15. Domna Shved, Grodno

    It is often advised to continue to look after the cauliflower and broccoli after cutting the head - again, a smaller yield is obtained from the sleeping buds. And how exactly is it necessary to cut the first head, so that the forks begin to grow from this place again? I'm afraid to cut more than necessary.

    Reply
    • Domna Shved, Grodno

      Indeed, in warm autumn, you can get a full second crop of cauliflower and broccoli, and with the latter you can get even a third.
      The young head of the first crop should be carefully cut off with young leaves (no more!), And do not touch the stump with the root system. After a day or two, the cob should be poured (about a bucket of water) and immediately fed with wood ash (200 g under the plant), then sprinkle the soil with non-acid peat or humus, having bored to the height of 4-5, see Young shoots usually appear in 3-4 days .

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  16. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Vintage of cauliflower
    I sow cauliflower twice: in the spring and in July. Summer plants sometimes do not have time to grow. In such cases, either I hide the beds under the bows with a thick film, or before the freezing I dig out the plants with a head of diameter 2-3 cm and plant them in boxes, covering the ground with the lower leaves.
    I keep them in the shed: the warmer it is in it - the faster the heads will grow (usually this period ranges from 22 to 45 days).

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  17. Ekaterina KORYUGINA, city of Orenburg

    Cauliflower - until deep autumn
    Try to keep the cauliflower harvested in July until November - it will never work! It
    quickly begins to flabble, lose its juiciness, dry ... Of course, you can freeze it, but I have a very small freezer, and it is enough only for berries. But do not refuse now from your favorite vegetable! So that I have fresh head cabbage until late autumn, I sow late-ripe cauliflower for seedlings in mid-June and, accordingly, plant it in open ground at the end of July.
    I fertilize the soil - I bring in 1 square. m about 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium chloride. I dig, loosen, dig up small holes in a checkerboard pattern and plant seedlings. Before planting, I definitely harden the plants -
    for 7 days before transplant I put all the seedlings on the street under a canopy and 3-4 days do not moisten at all. I water copiously just before landing in the open ground.
    As the cabbage grows, I loosen the soil, spud, water, remove weeds. A big plus is that in August, slugs are not so actively attacked by plants, and butterfly hives do not drop in. Minus late landing - long head formation, up to 35 days. However, if it rains heavily or early frosts hit, plants with unripe heads can be transplanted into a greenhouse or basement. The main condition for growing is the absence of light. And then you will have fresh cabbage even in October-November!

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  18. Valentine SAMUSEVA. Brest

    Cauliflower: yielding tricks
    A freshman to grow a good head of cauliflower is often difficult. But the skill comes with experience! That's what I now know about growing this crop.
    So that the heads do not turn yellow and do not become rotten, they should be hidden from the sun.
    Cauliflower loves moisture. Therefore, during the formation of the head, water it regularly (about once in 2-3 days), otherwise large forks do not wait. And there are no weekly breaks in watering: from uneven moisture, the heads are cracking.
    ■ Nitrogen of this cabbage is needed at the beginning of growth (1 matchbox of ammonium nitrate or urea is dissolved in 10 l of water and watered). After it, micronutrients are needed, especially molybdenum, because when there is a shortage, black dots appear on the heads, bacteriosis.
    From caterpillars, slugs and aphids we process young cabbage with the drug Sharpay or Nurel. If the pests returned shortly before harvesting, spray Superkilom - it quickly leaves the plants. And we must add to the solutions an adhesive - liquid soap or wood shavings.
    By the way, the simplest, but very tasty variant of cooking cauliflower is in batter. It is enough to wash it, disassemble it on the inflorescence, dip it in a salted beaten egg (you can sprinkle breadcrumbs for a crusty crust) and fry in a frying pan. Everything, a useful side dish is ready!

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  19. Andrey IVANOV, Kazan

    Good illumination, unfortunately, I do not have, so I can not boast of a vegetable garden on the windowsill in winter. But there is a reliable basement, so I became interested in the opportunity to grow vegetables without light.
    For example, fresh heads of cauliflower I cut until the New Year. For seedling for autumn-winter forcing, sow cabbage in the middle of summer. I use varieties with medium-sized white heads: Snowman, Snowball, Movir-74. You can take high-yielding varieties, but they still will not give a big return when forcing.
    Seedlings in the garden are planted twice as thick as in normal cultivation. I necessarily spend one additional feeding with boron. My task: to get by September, small adult plants with rudiments of heads. It is very important that the cabbage is healthy. Until the frosts I dig out the plants, I cut off part of the lower leaves, and the rest I gently tie to make a compact bag. As densely as possible I put vertically in wooden boxes, falling asleep between the roots of the earth. Moderately watered and cleaned into the basement. In the future I water every 10-15 days. The heads grow small, according to 100-150, but the taste is practically the same as the garden ones.

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  20. Lyudmila MAYER, Volgograd Region

    Whimsical cabbage
    More capricious cabbage than color, I have not yet met, although the work experience at the dacha I have such that it's time to pay a pension.
    Started by planting early varieties of cabbage - those that produce crops in mid-August. Alas, the plants were too hot, so they did not try to tie their heads, but went into the foliage.
    Then I began to plant late-cabbage. The heads of her were formed, but no matter how I tried, they grew yellow, sifted and then dark dots appeared on the entire surface of the outlets. This continued until I learned that my cabbage was suffering from excess sun.
    It turns out that at the end of July, when the plant will form a head as large as a walnut, it must be pritenyat. To do this, all the external leaves can be slightly broken so that they cover the head from direct sunlight, or tie them from above in a bundle and fasten with a regular clerical rubber band. Then the head of cabbage will not dry and rot, forming dark dots in a rainy summer.

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