14 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    For open soil, you must choose varieties of cucumbers that are resistant to diseases, to temperature changes, self-pollinated. I like Courage, Berendey and Gerda. They are fruitful and well against olive spotting, mosaic and powdery mildew. Fruit-bearing begin on 40-45-th day after emergence.

    For the night, cucumbers, especially fragile, with the first leaves, and then the ovaries, should be covered with a sponge board or plastic wrap. In the afternoon, shelter should be removed, so that the plants receive the necessary amount of sunlight and strengthen, and not stretched to the light. Pour cucumbers in the open ground should be exclusively warm water and preferably every day a little.

    The most important condition for good fruiting of cucumbers is warm soil. Cucumbers, as a rule, are planted on a warm bed made of compost, manure and a layer of land. Manure inside the beds preters and gives heat. And so that the heat does not evaporate, the bed should be covered with a dark film (especially in the cold summer), making cross-shaped incisions for the plants.

    Reply
  2. Maksim

    MY OBSERVATIONS FOR CUCUMBERS

    I will share with you the experience and observations on the cultivation of cucumbers.
    Last year I used the following hybrids of cucumbers: Millionaire F1, Futuristic F1, Bystrenok F1, Bukhara F1, Herman F1, Near Moscow Evenings F1, F1 King of Market, F1 Chupa-Chups, F1 Summerman's Dream.
    Bukhara F1 and Moscow Evenings F1 are salad hybrids and are not suitable for canning.
    8 March, I sowed one seed of Bukhara F1 in a seedling package, filling the package with 1 / 2 and screwing it out. The second seed of Bukhara F1 planted in a small glass, and then transplanted into another package. After 3-4 days the seeds have risen. When the plants were growing up, I poured soil into the package for additional rooting.

    In late April - early May, transplanted into a greenhouse. I put grass, a little urea at the bottom of the hole, sprinkled it with earth, poured water and dropped an earthen lump right into it. At the same time, it was badly damaged, and therefore I did not like the packages.
    The plant, after transplantation due to damage to the coma and cool weather, slowed down in growth. And in June we shot the first fruits from this bush.
    Since 30 March, I continued to plant cucumbers of all the above hybrids, except for Bukhara F1. I already planted them without any experiment with the container. They grew and developed quite well. For cucumbers I made a warm patch. To do this, I dug out a trench, sprinkled a little urea at the bottom, folded the weeds growing on this place, again sprinkled urea, filled the trench with water and covered it with earth with compost.
    When the plants grew up, I began to tie them up, used polypropylene and flax fiber twine and threads from a filter thread filter cartridge, as well as clamps for electronics. First I pulled a twine, sticking a special hook into the ground, that is, one end of the thread was tied to the hook, and the other to the self-tap on the roof (if desired, the hooks can be bent out of the armature), then using the clamps let the plant up. When the plant reached the roof, I began to tip the tip to the side. To do this, I on the roof stretched the thread and with the help of all the same clamps tied the plants in the direction necessary for me.

    Reading magazines, I see articles in which readers complain about super-bundle hybrids of cucumbers. This year I grew one bush of superbock hybrid Millionaire F1 in a greenhouse. I really liked this sort. Care for him was the most common, and he gave a very decent harvest.

    Reply
  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    I also would like to share my experience of cultivation of cucumbers in the open ground. What do you need to get a good harvest?

    I believe that, of course, loosening, removing weeds and watering. And most importantly - timely top dressing. Before the bushes begin to bear fruit, I feed them twice with an interval of 10 days with such a drug: in a standard bucket of water I breed 1 tsp. urea (or ammonium nitrate), potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

    Consumption: for each plant a couple of liters. But during fruiting, I feed the cucumbers three times already (all with the same interval of 10 days). First feeding: in a bucket of water I breed 1 liter of mullein and 1 tbsp. l nitrofoski. Second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 3 tbsp. l wood ash and 1 tsp. dry powder of sodium humate. Third feeding: on a bucket of water - 1 tbsp. l azofoski. As for watering, I do it only with warm water and only in the afternoon - at 16.00.

    Of course, I do not forget about the formation of bushes: when the whips reach the length in 1 m, I pinch the top (I do the same with the side shoots, but I allow them to grow only up to 50 cm).

    Reply
  4. Dmitry Petrovich HARCHEVKIN, Bryansk

    Cucumbers - until late autumn
    I always succeed in cucumbers - bear fruit until late fall. What am I doing?
    In the autumn, I dig up the soil on the full bayonet of the shovel, while simultaneously introducing the manure. In the spring, as soon as it's possible to do, I repeat the procedure, but already half a pound of shovel. After that, I always cover the bed with a film so that the land gets warmer. And before sowing, I make grooves with depth 7-8, see. And, after pouring them with hot water, I spread a mixture of peat and soil. Then, at a distance of 10 cm from each other, I lay out the seeds of cucumbers that had by then entered. I sprinkle them with a layer of the same peat mixture with soil and cover with a film. The emerging shoots do not touch the shelter, because they grow on a small depression. A film helps to keep the heat.
    When the plants form 3-4 real leaflets, I set the arcs and stretch the film on them. Further everything, as usual: watering (necessarily warm water), weekly top dressing with a solution of Mullein with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer and a glass of ash on 10 l of water. During the fruiting process I remove the film with arcs so that the bees, bumblebees and other insects can pollinate the flowers of the cucumber. And to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, before the appearance of the fruit, I spray the plants 2-3 times every 5 days with a solution of Mullein infusion.

    I pick cucumbers every 1-2 days so that they do not outgrow, and others are allowed to develop freely. Of all the varieties and hybrids, I prefer to grow a mid-season bee pollinator hybrid Farmer. The cucumbers are of optimal length - 10-12 cm, besides crispy and juicy. This is a relatively cold-resistant variety that easily tolerates our not always warm summer.

    Reply
  5. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    To get a good crop of greenhouse cucumbers, you need to create comfortable conditions for them. The main thing is that air temperature and soil temperature should be approximately equal and kept within 20-30 °.

    Cucumbers do not like when the “head” is warm and the “legs” are cold. Under these conditions, they slow down growth and become susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. Therefore, in the base of greenhouse beds, you also need to lay biofuel, and ventilate through the vents. In no case should you water the cucumbers with cold water. -
    The night temperature should not differ from the daytime temperature by more than 6-7 °.
    Greenhouse cucumbers also require high air humidity - up to 90%. Therefore, it is undesirable to grow them in the same "room" with tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, which under such conditions are poorly tied fruits or shed ovary.

    But at such a high humidity, the stability of the temperature is especially important so that the dew harmful to plants does not fall out. If it is impossible to avoid a night temperature drop, then closer to the evening, the greenhouse should be ventilated better, lowering the humidity, and watering in the morning so that the humidity again rises from the fumes.

    Reply
  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    If cucumbers are grown outdoors, it is important to choose a sunny and draft-protected place for them.

    Grades with long lashes, requiring garters on the trellis, it is good to plant on the south side near the wall of the building or a blind boardwalk. Such a wall
    serves also as a protection against wind, and a heat accumulator, and a support for securing twine.
    If the garden is located in the middle of a flat garden, then on the side of the prevailing wind you can sow something tall: a curly bean on the supports, sunflower, corn, beans.

    Reply
  7. Igor EGOROV, Novosibirsk

    There are not many places in the greenhouses, so I can grow everything I can, vertically. This applies to cucumbers.

    Firstly, I plant cucumbers every year, so I immediately pulled and ground horizontally horizontally over the beds a quality steel wire. Unlike ropes, it does not become moldy and will not become a haven for pests. Wire trellises are located in parallel, at a distance not less than 1 m.

    Secondly, I begin to tie up cucumbers a week after transplanting seedlings. I carry out the garter in a checkerboard pattern: one whip - on the 1st wire, the next - on the 2nd. Here I already use a rope or twine. I attach the stems to the eyelets, and the upper end of the rope to the wire.
    Thirdly, cucumbers need sun. The top of the whip will tend to up. But, as soon as it reaches the wire, it will start to curl over it and create a kind of "roof" that will shade the lower part of the plant. To avoid this, I direct the growth down from the wire. If it does not work, I pinch the shoot.

    And the last: all the "surgery" for the removal of shoots and leaves I spend only sharp garden scissors. Accurate wounds after this operation are tightened faster and easier than if you sever the shoots manually.

    Reply
  8. Tatiana FEDORENKO, Volgograd Region

    I heard about spraying vegetables with milk. Someone will seem to throw out money, and we have a few cows, so we do not experience a deficit of milk, and if such a feeding is really effective, we can afford to use it. How is milk supplement prepared for which crops are applied?

    Reply
    • Tatyana

      In pure form, milk as a top dressing for vegetable and garden crops is rarely used. More often used milk whey, which is a source of mineral substances (calcium, potassium, phosphorus), and organic (some amino acids, lactose). The solution of whey is also used as a preventive agent for combating certain diseases of plants, especially fungal nature (late blight, powdery mildew). Make traps from dairy whey for insect pests, filling it with containers and suspending to the crown of the tree for the night. In the form of top dressing (including foliar), whey is used for processing tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers, squash, flowers (especially roses). When using whey as root supplement, it is diluted with water in the ratio 1: 10. For irrigation, usually diluted with water, taking 1 part of the serum on the 3 part of the water. Often a small amount of household soap shavings is also added.

      Reply
  9. Elena Nikolaevna Voevodina, Tver

    Cucumbers have male and female flowers. When pollen from a male plant falls on the female pistil, pollination occurs and an ovary occurs. But everything is so simple only in theory - in practice, all sorts of incidents happen. For example, if in May-June the temperature of the soil drops below +15 ° C, then the plant stops growing. As a result, at least flowering is delayed, but in the worst case it does not occur at all. Exit: close the greenhouse at night and monitor the temperature of not only the air, but also the ground. To do this, you can buy a soil thermometer.

    Reply
  10. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    The main thing I suffer from often cucumbers is peronosporosis (downy mildew, LMR)
    Primary infection. The causative agent is retained in seeds on plant remains, capable of overwintering not only in greenhouses, but also in open ground.
    In the spring at a temperature of 15-20 degrees there are signs of infection of plants (already on the third or fourth leaves).
    All summer, the causative agent of peronosporosis is easily tolerated with drops of moisture from the open ground to greenhouses and greenhouses and back. The number of diseased plants is increasing.
    Symptoms
    On the upper side of the sheet, angular yellow-green spots appear. On them, but from the underside of the leaf, a raid of grayish-violet color is formed.
    The number and size of the spots on the leaves increase, they merge, the leaf is twisted.
    With high humidity, the disease spreads, and after a few days already on all plants in the greenhouse there are symptoms of defeat.
    preventive measures
    In cloudy or rainy weather, it is better to cancel watering.
    And with the urgent need to apply watering plants in the morning, so that until the evening it was possible to reduce the humidity of the air to the required limits. Do not water plants with cold water, with insufficient air temperature and excessive humidity of soil and air;
    Foliar treatment of plants with microelements and growth regulators - "Elin-Ex-tra", "Zircon".
    Spraying young plants (3-5 leaves) and subsequent treatments - before harvesting the first fruits.
    A delay of 1-2 days will no longer save plants from severe disease damage and, ultimately, death.
    With a strong spread of peronasporosis with chemical weapons, spray no more than 2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
    IMPORTANT
    Peronosporosis occurs when affected by fungi from the family Peronosporaceae. Bordeaux mixture does not help in the fight against peronosporosis.

    Reply
  11. Elena POPOVA, city of Izhevsk

    Anthracnose on cucumbers, or cucumber coppers, usually appears in late August. The reason is the sharp changes in daily temperatures plus frequent cold
    rains. I am an opponent of spraying vegetables with chemicals, so I use only folk remedies. Firstly, in order to reduce the likelihood of cucumbers becoming infected with anthracnose, I observe crop rotation - I never sow cucumbers on the same bed for 2 years in a row.
    Secondly, in the autumn I never leave cucumber leaves to rot in the garden. I dig it out with roots and burn it. I do not even put it in the compost pile, so that the fungus, if it is on the tops, did not spread and would not infect all plantings the next year.
    Thirdly, I do not use polyethylene film for a greenhouse twice. The fungus that causes anthracnose has a long-term ability to remain viable and spread through films, non-woven materials, working gloves, tools, so I do not risk it.
    Fourthly, during the onset of the August cool, I close the cucumbers for the night with a film. It protects them well from dew and low temperatures, and cucumber bushes continue to bear fruit until September.

    Reply
  12. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    The bitterness of the fruits of zucchini, zucchini and other pumpkin gives cucurbitin - a toxic substance that these vegetable plants produce as protection against pests. Breeders have already worked on the problem and bred varietal plants that do not contain cucurbitacin.
    However, if the fruits suffer from heat and drought, even the most cultured of them still produce poison, accumulating it in cages. This poison is also present in decorative pumpkins, and if they grow near zucchini, the tendency to produce cucurbitin can be transferred to the next generation of zucchini grown from harvested seeds! This is why every year it is worth buying new seeds from the Pumpkin family.
    If the fruits are bitter, do not use them for food: they can cause nausea and vomiting, and in some cases even lead to death.

    Reply
  13. Tamara MIKHAILOVA, Lipetsk

    It's a shame when you pick a fresh cucumber from the garden - and it is bitter. But you can avoid it!
    Bitterness builds up when a plant experiences stress: it lacks heat, water, nutrition, disease and pests annoy. Therefore, during the ripening of the crop, planting care should be especially careful. In dry weather, regularly water the cucumbers, trying to wet the ground to a sufficient depth. For irrigation use warm water - from a shallow reservoir or heated in the sun in barrels. Never pour cucumbers with cold water from a well or well!
    In August, the nights become cool, so you need to cover the beds. Since the cucumber whips have grown, put additional supports for the film so that the tent becomes more spacious. Shelter will help in case of prolonged rains, because a constant excess of moisture can also cause accumulation of bitterness. When collecting fruit, it is important not to injure plants, do not shift from place to place whips, do not break healthy leaves, do not break off the antennae. This condition is easier to observe if from the very beginning correctly to create cucumber vines: do not thicken plantings, pinch and remove superfluous shoots, direct and tie stems.
    But yellow and stained leaves carefully cut out to prevent the spread of disease. During the harvest period, do not use pesticides. If there is a false powdery mildew i of phytophthora, pour in a bucket of water 2 l of whey and 10 ml of pharmacy iodine tincture. Spray the plants with this solution.

    Reply

Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible