Cucumbers in the open ground (photo) cultivation planting and leaving from A to Z
Contents ✓
- ✓ Cucumber planting dates
- ✓ Seedbed method
- ✓ Outdoor ground
- ✓ Selection of seeds of cucumbers
- ✓ Cucumber seed treatment before planting
- ✓ Stages of sowing cucumbers
- ✓ Cucumber dressing
- ✓ Subtlety of landing.
- ✓ Simple reception
- ✓ WHAT SHOULD THE SOIL FOR CUCUMBERS
- ✓ Options are available
- ✓ We prepare a usual bed for cucumbers
- ✓ Cooking a warm garden for cucumbers
- ✓ CUCUMBERS: DISEASES AND PESTS
- ✓ Cucumber pests
- ✓ Ready for battle!
- ✓ Painful view
- ✓ CUCUMBERS WITHOUT CHEMISTRY
- ✓ How often should I feed?
- ✓ METHODS OF CUCUMBER SUSPENSION
- ✓ NO MULCH ANYWHERE!
- ✓ CUCUMBERS IN OPEN GROUND - VIDEO (VERY DETAILED - RECOMMENDED)
How to grow cucumbers in the open ground
It is impossible to imagine a country plot without at least one cucumber bed. This fragrant and delicious vegetable is loved by all summer residents and is consumed with pleasure both in fresh and canned form. in my garden I spend the best place for this culture every year ...
When I began to work on an abandoned summer cottage, on which nothing but wheatgrass had grown before, I had to face great difficulties. In the early years, my attempts to grow cucumbers, the seeds of which I sowed immediately on the garden, ended in failure. And all because cucumber seeds, as it turned out, are a real treat for ants, which then in my garden were countless.
I crossed them again and again, but only isolated and accidentally surviving specimens sprouted and emerged, naturally, the crop was scanty, and besides, the beginning of the fruiting was considerably removed.
Therefore, I decided to sow cucumbers on the seedlings of the house, and already grown seedlings - to transport the executioner and land on the garden. Later, when I completely removed the couch-grass in my garden, and also sowed all the free corners of the summer plot with calendula and marigolds, I managed to get rid of the ants and return to the non-harvest method. However, until now some of my plantings are taken by plants, which I grow through seedlings.
After all, this method, despite the fact that it is more laborious and troublesome, allows you to get the first greens about a month earlier. And after buying a polycarbonate greenhouse, cucumbers on our table began to appear already in mid-May.
It should be noted that the timing of planting cucumbers for each region will vary significantly. The main thing is, you do not have to hurry with the planting of this vegetable for seedlings, as it grows very fast and is often stretched. Subsequently, this may lead not to an increase in the yield, but, on the contrary, to its loss. After all, of weak seedlings, it is unlikely to form healthy shrubs that can normally bear fruit. Young plants are ready for transplantation already in 3-4 weeks after emergence, that is, in the 2-4 phase of these sheets,
Cucumber planting dates
In our region, weather conditions allow you to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse in the last decade of April, and in open ground - in the first decade of May. Accordingly, greenhouse cucumbers, I begin to sow in seedlings as early as the end of March, and those that later will be transplanted into the open ground - in early April. In addition, on May holidays, I prepare a separate bed, on which I plant seed-sprouted seeds. This approach allows you to stretch the fruiting season of the vegetable, so beloved by all members of our family. First, we eat crispy greens from the greenhouse, then begin to bear fruit bushes in the open ground, grown through seedlings, and sown with seeds pick up the baton the very latest.
Seedbed method
The indisputable advantage of the seedling method is the acceleration of the beginning of fruiting and the possibility of obtaining fruits at the earliest possible time. After all, after the winter cold, everyone is looking forward to the first fresh vegetables on his table. In addition, this method allows you to extend the collection period, and in the northern regions the country's paits will serve as a guarantee of obtaining a guaranteed crop. Of the shortcomings, I, perhaps, I will name only one - unnecessary spring troubles, which are already quite a lot for summer residents in this period. After all, to get good seedlings it is necessary to allocate additional space on the windowsill and make certain efforts to create a favorable microclimate for them.
See also: Cultivation of cucumbers in the open ground: planting and care
Outdoor ground
If tomatoes, Bulgarian peppers and eggplants in our climatic zone for seedlings must be sown necessarily, then cucumbers can bear fruit well and by direct planting in the soil.
But the crop in this case will be later, besides, the cucumber bushes give it away quite quickly, and then rapidly begin to turn yellow and dry up. Therefore, to prolong the fruiting period, it makes sense to sow cucumbers in different periods with an interval of 2 - 3 weeks.
But such a method is suitable only for those truck farmers who in the dry summer weather have the opportunity to constantly moisten the soil in the area where this crop is sown. However, it should be noted that, under favorable conditions, shoots in the open ground appear quickly, and the plants themselves subsequently become more viable and adapted to environmental conditions. Even the strongest cucumber seedlings after transplantation are stressed, and it takes a certain amount of time to settle down in a new place and start moving again into growth.
Selection of seeds of cucumbers
I am attentive to the choice of seeds and never use freshly picked ones, since in this case few women's flowers will form on the plants, the number of which determines the size of the future crop. Ideal option is to use for planting two-three-year seeds.
Therefore, during the purchase of planting material, I always look at the expiration date. Manufacturers usually indicate on the sachet not the date of packaging, but the final term of implementation. And there are certain standards with regard to which the seeds put up in single-layer paper bags need to be realized within two years, and those stored in two-layer bags of foil materials - for three years. But since the seeds of the cucumber keep germinating for 8-10 years, I often get a planting stock with expiring shelf life: this is exactly what I need.
Advice of a specialist
Now in the garden stores there is a large assortment of varieties and hybrids, and everyone can choose cucumbers to their taste, depending on the needs and conditions of cultivation. I plant and quite new hybrids, and old, well-established varieties. It is worth noting that in the greenhouse I never plant bee-dusted varieties, but use parthenocarpic and self-pollinated varieties. For planting in the open ground all kinds of plants are suitable.
Cucumber seed treatment before planting
I always do preseeding treatment of seeds, regardless of where they are planted, at home in glasses or in the garden. The exception is only those that are already sold in prepared form: they are usually painted and do not require additional gardening manipulation. First of all, I select the undamaged full-bodied seeds, which have long been learned to determine with the naked eye. Beginners for these purposes can recommend using 3% saline (30 g of table salt at 1 L of water), in which the seeds are covered and mixed thoroughly. After 7-10 minutes, the quality planting material will settle on the bottom of the tank.
Floating specimens must be discarded: they are unsuitable for planting. After calibration, the seeds are placed in a thermos filled with hot water (+ 45 ... + 50 “C), and kept under a closed lid for about half an hour. Such warming promotes faster and more friendly germination and further development.
Next, I disinfect seeds for 20 - 30 minutes in an 1% solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 1 L of water), then rinse them under running water. At the last stage, I prepare a nutrient solution based on the growth stimulator "Energen" and organo-mineral fertilizer "Biohumus" (1 capsule and 4,5 ml respectively, 600 ml of water). In it I moisten a piece of cotton cloth or gauze, lay out the planting material on it, put it on a saucer, which I immerse in a plastic bag. Seeds are left in a warm place before pecking - in gak solution it occurs much faster.
Advice of a specialist
Since the length of daylight in the spring is still insufficient for the normal development of shoots, it is imperative that the seedlings of cucumbers are provided with additional illumination in the morning and evening hours, and in cloudy weather throughout the day. For this purpose I use a drawing lamp. At its base there is a special fastener that allows you to easily fix it on the windowsill. In addition, thanks to the long leg, the height of the backlight is easily adjusted as the seedlings grow.
Stages of sowing cucumbers
Since cucumbers very painfully tolerate a transplant and the slightest damage to the root system, when growing seedlings I use separate containers at once. For this purpose, four hundred-gram plastic cans from sour cream are excellent, which I specially collect. In the bottom of each container I make several holes for the drain of excess liquid.
Fill them fertile soil only half. For this, I use the garden land and the overgrown compost, taken in equal proportions and carefully mixed with wood ash (1 glass on 10 l substrate).
When the seeds begin to peck, I immediately hatch them in cups, in which the soil is first spilled with warm water. It should not be delayed with the planting process, as fragile roots outgrow very quickly and can break easily during planting. I spread one seed in each container, sprinkle them with a soil layer of 1-2 cm, which I moisten slightly from above with a spray bottle. I cover each cup with cling film and leave in a warm place (+ 27 ... +30 ° C). As soon as the loops of seedlings appear, I rearrange the container on the lightest window sill, and remove the film from the cups.
The temperature in the room now needs to be maintained at + 20 ... + 22 ° С in the daytime, and at night not to let it drop below + 15 ° С.
Gentle shoots of cucumber need regular, but moderate watering. Neither drying out nor overmoistening of the earthen coma should be allowed - this equally affects their development.
Also this culture does not tolerate drafts.
See also: Seedlings of cucumbers. A few words about varieties and hybrids
Cucumber dressing
During the growth period of seedlings, I twice fertilize with the complex fertilizer "Biohumus", which was used for soaking seeds.
But this time the nutrient solution is prepared from the calculation of 5 ml of the drug per 1 l of water. The first feeding is carried out in the phase of cotyledons, and the second one a week before transplanting the plants into the ground or a greenhouse. Approximately for 10 days before moving my pets to the dacha I start taking them out to the glassed loggia for hardening. As the seedlings grow, I gradually pour the fertile soil into the cups, filling the stalk with cotyledons. This contributes to the development of an additional root system, and my seedling at the time of transplantation always looks chunky and healthy.
See also: Pests of greenhouse cucumbers. How to fight
Subtlety of landing.
Cucumbers in one place for two consecutive years I do not plant, I invariably observe the crop rotation, I try to plant this culture after cabbage, peas, tomatoes, pepper, eggplants, potatoes or beets. Seedlings are transplanted to a pre-prepared bed, the soil on which I carefully dig over with the addition of humus from the racist 1 bucket to 1 m2. Then I level the area and make holes at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other for greenhouse plants and 30 -36 cm for ground cucumbers.
Then I plant young plants by the method of transshipment, trying not to allow damage to the root system. Seedlings I cover on cotyledonous leaves and I pour with warm water. I always transplant in cloudy weather or in the evening. If I sow seeds on the seedbed, I first deepen the holes, add my home fertilizer, sprinkle with the soil, water, and top the seeds, deepening them into the soil on 1 - 2, see.
I hope, my experience will be useful for summer residents, and everyone will choose for themselves the best way to plant. And those who decide to grow cucumbers through seedlings and take advantage of my advice, for sure will remain satisfied with the result.
Simple reception
I have one simple trick that significantly increases the yield and quality of the greens. The last few years, when planting, I add potato cleaning and the remains of bakery products to the holes that I harvest and dry during the winter. When planting seedlings, I put them on a handful of such fertilizer into the planting pit, mix it with the soil and spill it abundantly with water.
WHAT SHOULD THE SOIL FOR CUCUMBERS
If the garden for cucumbers is prepared properly, in accordance with all the rules, then the gardener will not have much trouble with growing this crop - the plants will be pleased with the harvest, they will not require extra nutrition, and they will not be forced to worry about their health again.
Cucumbers will have to taste the garden, on which grew cabbage (white or colored), peas or beans; you can plant them after tomatoes. But that their predecessors on the bed were "relatives" - representatives of the family of pumpkin (zucchini, pumpkin, squash) - cucumbers do not like. Based on knowledge of cucumber sympathies and antipathies, we will prepare the soil for planting.
WHY SOIL THE CUCUMBERS LIKE:
- Fertile, saturated with organic matter;
- with a neutral or slightly acid reaction;
- loose, breathable;
- water-intensive;
- warm;
- cleared of weeds.
DO NOT LIKE:
- dense;
- sour;
- poor;
- cold.
Options are available
Depending on the conditions and own capabilities, one can choose one of two main ways: to improve (enrich, loosen, deoxidize, etc.) the soil in the garden or to build a so-called warm bed. Advantages and disadvantages have both options, so consider both.
We prepare a usual bed for cucumbers
Preparation of soil for cucumbers begins long before planting. First of all, care should be taken to cleanse the plant remains and the roots of weeds. Cucumber grows poorly on clogged areas, so it is better for him to choose cultivated, well-cultivated soils.
In autumn, the garden is filled with fresh manure from the calculation of 5-10 kg / m2 (the rate varies depending on the fertility of the soil) with the addition of 30 g superphosphate and 20 g potassium salt. Zero is planned to use reparted manure, compost or humus, they are brought in during spring digging or added directly to the hole when planting. Those who prefer to do without mineral fertilizers, instead use wood ash (1 glass at 1 m2).
Manure can be replaced with plant raw materials, for example, fallen leaves, grass, etc. In this case, remove from the beds (it is more convenient to use fenced) the top layer of the soil to a depth of about 15 cm, lay the prepared organics and pour the soil. To the "filling" is not caked, not compacted, add to it rough components - pruning branches, stalks of corn, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke. You can additionally shed the vegetable layer with the infusion of chicken manure or mullein, do not get carried away: excess organic fertilizers will not benefit.
If the soil is acidic, it must necessarily be lime. The optimal option is to add dolomite flour to the previous crop at the rate of 300-500 g / m2 (depending on the acidity level), but this can be done even during the autumn digging. Instead of dolomite flour, lime, chalk or wood ash is also used.
Dense, heavy clay soil must be made loose: make sand, peat, sawdust, humus. Forget that fresh sawdust can not be used, as they increase the acidity of the soil and absorb nitrogen from it. If there is no over-ripe raw material at hand, fresh sawdust should be treated with a solution of urea (200 g per 10 L of water), mixed with wood ash or dolomite flour, covered with plastic wrap for 10-16 days and only afterwards added to the soil.
If it was not possible to prepare a bed in the fall, you will have to deal with this spring when the earth warms up. Perekaku make organic and mineral fertilizers, for example, one of the proposed nutritional "cocktails" (at 1 m2):
- 3 kg of humus, 3 kg of peat, 2 kg of old sawdust, 30 - 40 g superphosphate, 10 - 15 g of potassium salt;
- 5 - 7 kg of half-baked manure, 20 g of urea. 20 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate or 150 - 200 g of wood ash;
- 4 - 6 kg of compost or humus, 3 glass of wood ash, 100 g nitrofoski.
Regardless of the chosen set of fertilizers, they are evenly distributed along the bed and embedded in the soil.
Cooking a warm garden for cucumbers
This is an excellent option for regions where spring is cold, with late return frosts. As we remember, the cucumber loves a warm soil, rich in nutrients - it is these conditions that will ensure a warm patch. Heat, which is released during the decomposition of organic raw materials, allows you to get an early crop of cucumbers in bed in adverse climatic conditions.
See also: Cultivation of cucumbers without a greenhouse and chemicals on beds with grass
A warm garden is prepared from autumn to take advantage of all its advantages. However, it is also not necessary to hurry too much: if the biofuel is planted too early, it will begin to warm up before the onset of cold weather and by spring will already burn out. But it's better about everything in order.
FOR THE NOTICE
It is believed that 2/3 of the total amount of fertilizers intended for cucumbers should be applied when preparing the soil for planting. The remaining 1/3 is divided into two halves: one is used when it comes to sowing or transplanting seedlings - they are added to the grooves (planting holes); the second half should be in the summer feeding.
Dig a trench 35 deep - 50 cm and a width of 50 - 60 cm. At the bottom lay a layer of branches or coarse stems - for drainage. Then set the arcs (if using a stationary greenhouse). But here you can proceed further in different ways.
Classic warm garden bed —This is a trench filled with manure (cow or horse). It is better to lay such biofuel in a trench prepared in the fall in early spring (usually in March), in extreme cases - in late autumn, after the onset of persistent cold weather. Manure is laid without compaction. If the raw material is laid in the autumn, in the spring it should be loosened with a pitchfork. If the content does not “flare up” (that is, it does not start to warm up), but the entire length of the bed, you need to make several deep holes and pour warm water into them. This stimulates the process.
When the biofuel flares up, sprinkle it with a layer of sawdust or peat (they absorb the released ammonia), and then lay the loose soil mixture with a layer of 16 - 20 cm and cover the greenhouse with a film. However, immediately after this, you cannot sow cucumbers: in the first 10-12 days of “burning” of manure, the soil temperature can rise to +60 ° C and above. When the temperature drops to + 30 ... + 40 ° С and stabilizes, it will be possible to start planting.
However, this technology is not available to all gardeners: someone does not get to the site in the early spring, somewhere it is difficult to get enough fresh manure. In this case, it is possible to fill the trench with available organic raw materials-fallen leaves, ground grass (without seeds), botnos (only healthy plants), and so on. Top the manure or compost and spread the soil.
This structure can not fully replace the real warm patch: the vegetative "filling" is heated much less than manure, and it will be possible to start planting at a later date. However, cucumbers perfectly grow on it and please the harvest.
Thus, it is possible to prepare the right soil for cucumbers in different ways, and each gardener will easily pick the right option, based on their own preferences and the conditions of their summer residence.
CUCUMBERS: DISEASES AND PESTS
When I first started learning about garden science, I often missed the first signs of plant damage and, due to my imprudence, lost crops in some years. But over time, there was a baggage of knowledge, which now helps me.
As this culture is fast-growing, I do not apply chemical preparations for its protection. Over the years gardening I have accumulated quite a lot of effective folk ways that help to keep the health of cucumbers in any, 1 even the most unfavorable conditions.
Note
The most common pests of cucumber are aphids, spider mite and whitefly. In addition to the fact that these insects suck the juices from the leaves and stems of plants, greatly weakening them, they are also carriers of viral infections, which are then almost impossible to cope with.
Cucumber pests
Aphids that damage cucumbers can be both winged and wingless and have a gray, green or dimensional color. A single individual reaches the size of 1,8 - 2 mm. This insect reproduces very quickly, and in a few days entire colonies are formed on the leaves and stems. She is inactive and, taking a certain place on the shoot, sucks the juice until he begins to dry up.
Spider mites notice with the naked eye is almost impossible, since its size does not exceed 0,6 mm. But its appearance on cucumbers is easy to determine by the presence of a thin spider web on the leaves and their marble chips. These pests are usually found on the inside of the leaves, sucking out the juices from them, as a result of which they rapidly begin to dry up.
The whitefly is a flying insect about the size of about 2 mm with translucent whitish wings. It is not usually found on the back of the leaves. She is very gluttonous and continues to suck out cucumber juice from plants, even when it is full. Surplus juice, which remains on stems and leaves after the activity of this pest, serve as a favorable environment for the appearance of black fungus, which further depresses shoots.
Ready for battle!
By the new summer season I start preparing in advance and during the autumn-winter period I store up with kitchen waste that can be used in the fight against these harmful gels. To do this, I collect and dry the skin of citrus fruits and onion shit.
When you appear in cucumber plantings, uninvited guests take a half-liter jar of dry citrus peel, pour 2 l of water and insist for 24 hours. Then the agent is boiled on low heat 16 - 20 minutes, filter, bring the broth to 10 l and spray the plants. If during the winter I get a lot of orange or tangerine peel, as a preventive pour it under the bushes of cucumbers and cover with mown grass. Cork with perigneviai in the earth exude an odor that repels these insects.
And the infusion of onion husks is no less effective against them. To prepare it, pour a liter jar of husk 2 - 3 liters of hot water (+ 40 ... + 50 ° C) and leave for two days. I filter the paste obtained, dilute it with water in a 1: 1 ratio and carry out the treatment from the sprayer. This tool, due to the high content of valuable nutrients, is also an excellent foliar top dressing. With the regular use of the onion husk infusion during the season, the cucumber lashes stay green for a significantly longer time and delight with a longer fruiting period.
In the fight against pests on cucumber bushes, an infusion of garlic gives an excellent effect. To prepare it, I pass 1 glass of peeled cloves through a press, add the mass to a bucket of water and insist “<under the lid for two days. Spraying cucumbers with this infusion not only scares away unwanted insects, but also serves as an excellent bactericidal agent for the prevention and treatment of such common fungal diseases, like powdery mildew, peronosporosis, cladosporium, white and root rot, ascochitis, fusariosis and anthracnose.
Painful view
Most often cucumbers suffer from powdery mildew and peronosporosis. The first disease occurs when the air humidity is high and the temperature does not exceed + 20 ° С. It is characterized by the appearance on the leaves of a mealy plaque in the form of non-large spots, which gradually increase and pass to the stems. Damaged parts of plants subsequently begin to wither and die.
No less dangerous is peronosporosis (downy mildew), which develops in similar weather conditions and is characterized by the appearance of numerous yellow specks that are rapidly expanding and lead to the death of the damaged part of plants.
Kladosporiosis (brown olive spotting) is manifested in the form of small round ulcers of a brown or olive hue. Spots later begin to increase, dry up and collapse, damaging the foliage. This disease occurs when there are sharp temperature changes, and also in cool rainy weather.
To detect the onset of infection of cucumbers with white rot, which begins to spread with high humidity of soil and air, is fairly straightforward: small white bodies appear in different parts of plants, looking like pieces of cotton wool. If you do not carry out treatment, shoots and fruits can be covered with such a "wadded" plaque almost completely.
Root rot can be seen with the mass wilting of the foliage. If you pull such a bush out of the ground, its root system turns out to be rotten and with a red tint. From this misfortune cucumbers often begin to suffer due to the negligence of the dacha owners themselves - after watering with cold water in hot weather.
Ascochitis often destroys greenhouse plants and primarily occurs on stems in the form of oblong watery spots of gray color. 11 the late spots darken, dry out, and from their cracked coversheets begins to emit a brown exudate. If you do not take any measures, the disease spreads then to the leaves and fruits.
In the greenhouse on cucumber bushes, it is also possible to detect signs of fusariosis, which is similar to ascochitis due to excessive compactness of plantings, increased humidity and a sharp drop in daytime and nighttime temperatures. Fusarium wilt in most cases manifests itself only in the period of fruiting, it significantly reduces its timing, as it greatly weakens plants. The drooping tops of the lashes during the day are the first sign of fusariosis. Spores of these fungi primarily settle on the roots, and then pass to the stem and leaves, the edges of which become watery and acquire a pale shade.
By watering cucumbers with cold water, and also with sudden changes in air temperature, anthracnose may develop, which can easily be detected by multiple brown spots on all parts of the plant. And on the fruits they have the appearance of depressed watery lesions of brown or pinkish hue. On infected bushes, the quality of even healthy looking greens is deteriorating; they become tasteless by reducing the amount of sugars and organic acids.
All the aforementioned ailments cause various fungi, the spores of which multiply rapidly and destroy plants, if the necessary measures are not taken in time. These fungi belong to different families, but for all of them the acidic environment and treatment with antiseptic agents are equally pernicious.
Reference by topic: Cultivation of cucumbers - rules and whims
Be carefull!
When preparing folk remedies against diseases, I add to each 2 - 3 art. spoons of liquid soap for better adhesion and choose those products that are currently at hand. I want to note that the treatment should be done regularly 1 times in 5 - 7 days before the improvement of plants. Sometimes I experiment and mix different ingredients (in case my cucumbers hit both pests and diseases at the same time). For example, I drink iodine or zelenka in the tobacco dust; or cooked decoction of celandine (3 l) I bring up to volume 10 l with unusual water, and an ash solution, which I already prepare based on a half-liter can of ash per 7 l of water.
The last few years I have become much more vigilant about the health of their dacha pets. I start spraying from the moment of sprouting on the beds or planting seedlings in the soil as a prophylaxis every 7-10 days, alternating solutions against pests and diseases. With this approach, my cucumbers remain healthy throughout the growing season and annually delight me with a wonderful harvest.
CHECKED RECIPES AGAINST APPLE, WHITE-SLEEVE AND WEB MOLD
- Tobacco dust (150-200 g) pour 1-2 l of hot water and leave on 1 -2 days. Then filter the infusion, bring the volume to 10 l and spray the plants.
- I pour a bucket on 1 / 3 with ground ground of marigolds, pour half the water and insist for three days, after which I filter the infusion, dilute it with equal proportions and spray.
- Finely chop 30-40 g fresh or 10-15 g of dry bitter pepper, pour 1 l of water, put on fire and boil for 20-30 minutes on low heat. The resulting broth filter, pour into 9 l of water and I treat.
- 1 / 3 buckets of potato tops, tomato stepsons or herb wormwood poured warm water to the top and I insist for two days. Filtered infusion I use for the purpose.
- I crush 0,5 kg of freshly cleaved celandine and pour 3 l of water, I persist for 24 hours, boil for an hour and then filter. The broth is poured into a bucket, topped with water and sprayed.
In addition to garlic infusion, at the first signs of this or that disease I use the following solutions for foliar spraying of plants:
- 1 l skim milk or yogurt for 9 L of water;
- 1 L of whey at 9 L of water;
- half-liter can of wood ash on 10 l of water (insist 2 days and strain);
- 100 g of pressed yeast at 10 water;
- 10 ml iodine per 10 l water;
- 10 ml of green on 10 l of water;
- 150-200 g chopped wood mushroom fungus pour 1-2 l boiling water, wait for cooling, strain and bring the volume to 10 l;
- 2 kg of silt or straw pour 0,5 buckets of warm water, infuse 3 days, drain and bring the volume to 10 l;
- Loaf a loaf of rye bread and pour 10 l of water, allow fermenting 3 days, strain, dilute the kvass obtained in equal proportions;
- 1 / 3 buckets fill with crushed grass of plantain, nettle, dandelion and coltsfoot, pour water over to the top and allow to insist for 3-5 days, then strain and use in undiluted form;
- 1 kg Mullein infusion in 10 l water 3 days, strain, dilute half with water;
- 1 kg freshly harvested herb horsy pour 3 l water, let it brew for 24 hours, then boil, strain and bring the volume to 10 l.
CUCUMBERS WITHOUT CHEMISTRY
Many gardeners today prefer to grow vegetables in the country without the use of synthetic mineral fertilizers. AND THIS DOESN'T HAVE ANYTHING TO RECEIVE AN EXCELLENT CROP - EVEN WITH SUCH A LOVE, AS CUCUMBERS. MAIN - CORRECTLY CHOOSE THEM MENU
Cucumber loves organic, but it can not be limited: in our arsenal there must be different kinds of fertilizing to satisfy all the needs of the plant in useful macro- and microelements.
Ash
The chemical composition of the ash varies in a fairly wide range and largely depends on the feedstock used to produce it. But in any ashes there are compounds of calcium, potassium, magnesium and sodium, necessary for the cucumber. Regular application of ash throughout the season will prevent potassium starvation, which leads to the formation of ugly (pear-shaped) greens. In addition, calcium normalizes the water balance and maintains a stable growth of cucumber weaves.
The easiest way to use, so to speak for the lazy: systematically (once a week or less) scatter the sifted ash on the moist soil around plants at the rate of 2 st. Spoons on the bush, avoiding hitting the stems. Nutrients from the ash will gradually flow to the roots at each watering.
Liquid ash top dressing, in contrast to the dry method, allows you to quickly bring food to the recipient. This is especially important in the period of fruiting, when the consumption of potassium increases. Recipes of such solutions are different-their concentration is selected, based on specific conditions.
For regular feeding, you can use the following ash solution: a glass of ash dissolve in 10 liters of water. Fertilizer is applied at the rate of 1-2 glass per plant. If there is a shortage of potassium, the proportions can be increased: at 10 l of water, take a half-liter jar of ash, rewind thoroughly, let it settle, then top up the cucumber with the received solution at the rate of 1 l per bush.
You can prepare and ash paste: 3 st. spoon on 1 l of water, stir, insist for a week. Infusion is made from the calculation of 0,5 l per bush followed by copious watering.
Sources of nitrogen
If soil is better to be used for planting cucumbers, it is better to add manure or compost, then fresh manure or poultry (chicken, pigeon, quail, etc.) is preferable for feeding. They are used to prepare solutions of various concentrations. It should be remembered: manure and litter contain a lot of nitrogen, so it's extremely undesirable to abuse such top dressing. Excess nitrogen inevitably leads to abundant growth of greenery, but fruiting can be greatly delayed.
CHICKEN LITERATURE
In addition to nitrogen, chicken droppings contain a large amount of potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. According to these indicators, it is even several times superior to cow manure. However, such a high concentration of nutrients and the presence of uric acid in the litter make it unsafe for plants: such a fertilizer can burn the roots. Even in the form of infusion, fresh litter can not be brought under the root - only between rows. And be sure to combine this top dressing with abundant watering.
To make fertilizer from fresh chicken manure, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:20 and 10 days - insist on the open air. But the rotten litter can be bred in a higher concentration (1:10 or 1:15) and it needs to be insisted less, only 2 - 3 days. Ready top dressing by color should be like weakly brewed tea. If the solution turned out to be more saturated, you should add water so that the fertilizer you prepared does not harm the plants. It is especially effective in the second-third leaf phase, when cucumbers need nitrogen for growth, as well as at the beginning of flowering, when the beneficial elements contained in the litter stimulate the formation of ovaries.
MANURE
The content of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium and trace elements in this fertilizer varies considerably and depends on its "source". A high content of useful substances is distinguished by horse manure, but the most accessible is still the cow. Significantly less often truck farmers use pig, sheep, rabbit and other types of manure.
Horse manure is an excellent biofuel for warm cucumber ridges. For feeding, it is more convenient to use cow dung: the content of nitrogen in it is relatively low, which means there will be less risk of overdose, which can lead to accumulation of nitrates in fruits or active growth of the ash mass to the detriment of fruit bearing.
From the fresh manure prepare the infusion: pour the raw materials with water in the proportion of 1: 1, insist for a week, then dilute in the ratio 1: 10 and add, as well as the fertilizer from the chicken manure, to the aisles, at the rate of 10 l infused with 1 m7 plantings.
Another way to prepare top dressing: slurry mix with water 1: 4 and ferment in a warm place for4-7 days. The obtained infusion again dilute with water in the ratio 1: 3 or 1: 4 and use for feeding.
Weeds to the rescue
Excellent feeding for cucumbers is obtained from the most common herbs. Weed the weeded weeds, fold them into any suitable container, fill with water and leave for a few days before the appearance of a characteristic "aroma". The received herbal infusion can safely water cucumbers and other vegetable crops, previously diluted with water in the ratio of 1: 10. The most "delicious" top dressing is obtained from nettle and dandelion.
Advice of a specialist
When preparing herbal top dressing not fill the container to the top, otherwise the fermentation will overflow the contents. The fermentation time of such fertilizer will depend on the temperature: the warmer, the faster it will be ready.
Fertilizer from the speck can be prepared with fresh yeast and black bread added. Fill the container with chopped nettle for 2 / 3, add the remaining bread or breadcrumbs, pour water with diluted yeast (100 g per bucket of water) and ferment in the heat for 3 - 5 days. Before use, the ready-made infusion dilute with water in the proportion of 1: 10.
Natural "complex fertilizer" can be prepared as follows: 5 -6 kg crushed leaves and stems of weeds (nettle, plantain, dandelion, mother-and-stepmother), 10 st. spoons of wood ash, 1 Mullein bucket fold in a ten-tester (100l) capacity, pour over with water and mix thoroughly. I (vindicate for a week.
Products from the kitchen
They sang cucumbers began to prematurely yellow leaves, a solution of drinking soda (1 spoonful on 10 L of water) will help.
Cucumbers well respond to the yeast dressing: 100 g fresh (not dry!) Yeast for 10 l water. Yeast completely dissolve, let it brew for half an hour, water at the rate of 1 l under the bush.
The growth of cucumber lashes accelerates milk: it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, I feed '!' every 2 weeks. Instead of milk, you can use whey (2 liters per bucket of water).
How often should I feed?
Everyone knows that a cucumber is picky about nutrition. But here the degree of this exactingness is understood differently, and therefore it is possible to meet personal recommendations regarding the frequency of feeding.
The most radical option is to feed the plants all season, every 10-12 days (or even once a week), alternating mineral top dressings with organic ones.
The second variant assumes only 3-4 top dressing, timed to the most important stages of plant development: the first - two weeks after planting seedlings, when the plants have already adapted well in the new place; the second - at the beginning of flowering; the third and fourth - at the stage of mass fruiting, when the plants actively form the greens.
Finally, some truck farmers hold the opinion that the cucumber is enough 1-2 feeding for the whole summer - at the time of harvest formation.
Who is right and which option to choose? In many respects this is determined by the conditions: if the cucumber bed before planting was generously seasoned with organic, the soil on it is fertile, well retains moisture and nutrients, then it is not worth taking in additional fertilizing. Excess food is no less harmful than its deficiency: overfed plants are less resistant to disease. In addition, excess nitrogen leads to a decrease in yield and the accumulation of nitrates in fruits.
If the soil is poor or too loose (for example, sandy) and the elements necessary for the plant are quickly washed out during irrigation or rain, you can not see the yield without additional food.
And still need to watch the plants - they themselves will prompt if they need replenishment. Weave the healthy, the leaves are green, the fruits develop well - do not get carried away by applying fertilizers, even natural ones.
METHODS OF CUCUMBER SUSPENSION
When I was at school, I spent the summer holidays with my grandmother in the village. Even in my childhood, it was a great pleasure for me to take care of vegetable plants. And the most enjoyable thing for me was harvesting. The only culture with which I did not like to collect fruits was a cucumber.
Grandmother always grew cucumbers. With this method of planting, the bed occupied a rather large area. Therefore, I never felt any special joy in making my way through dense thickets, a solid carpet covering the surface of the earth. Often inadvertently attacked both fragile whips and the greens themselves, and then scolded themselves for their clumsiness. This vegetable was grown by my parents too. And only I, when I took the initiative completely but processed the dacha section in my hands, first tried to tie the long cucumber to the support.
The first experiment on constructing a cucumber support was carried out with the help of the side backs of two old armor beds, which for a long time were gathering dust in the country barn. These metal snakes I dug across the bed at a distance of about 1,5 m and pulled between them a few lines of twine. Cucumbers planted in two rows and with the growth of shoots just threw the whip on the pedestal. After a while they densely overlapped the design, which, although it turned out to be low, but greatly facilitated the withdrawal. Collecting zeltsy in a cucumber "tunnel" has become much easier. However, most of all I was pleased that the period of fruiting with this method of planting increased significantly in comparison with those plants that used to freely float on the ground earlier.
But still the height of this structure was insufficient: the shoots went up to the support as they went up, and then again descended to the ground.
After some time, I built another support. The beds were replaced by strong wooden stakes about 2 m high, which were dug in along the edges and in the middle of the beds on the same line. Between them I pulled several horizontal rows of twine at a distance of 30 - 35 cm, to which, during the growth period, I tied cucumber lashes. The height of this trellis was optimal, and I was very pleased with the result. The only thing that subsequently replaced the twine with a solid wire, as it invariably sagged under the weight of the shoots hung with fruits.
NO MULCH ANYWHERE!
Gartering cucumbers during the growing season does not take long and has long been a habit for me. This method saves considerable space on the site. Watering and feeding up plants is not difficult: water and nutrient solutions are now lyu strictly under the root, and the ground under crops mulched with mown grass. After all, on my sandy soil, which in the summer heat instantly dries up, without mulch just can not do. It allows you to retain moisture in the ground for much longer. In addition, the herb, when rotted, saturates it with organic compounds and additionally feeds the plants.
Prevention
On the trellis, vertically located shoots from all sides are illuminated by the sun, blown by the wind and always remain dry after watering, which significantly reduces the risk of developing fungal diseases. For example, when I grew this crop in a creeping form, the plantations were constantly amazed with mildew and anthracnose. And it happened because the shoots contacted wet soil, the temperature of which at night always decreased.
And if suddenly in the summer the cool, rainy weather was set, the cucumbers were amazed with fungal diseases just lightning fast, and sometimes I was completely deprived of the crop. Now I have the opportunity to release a considerable amount of time, which I used to spend on the treatment of my plantings.
Signs of a disease can be found on the bushes only in seasons with extremely unfavorable weather conditions. Tapestry protects them from the cold August dew, which adversely affects the condition of plants planted on the surface of the soil. Naturally, healthy bushes last much longer fruit and delight a generous harvest until the fall.
For bees
With tapestry method of cultivation of bee-dusted varieties, which I usually plant in the open ground, crop yields are significantly increased. After all, in such conditions it becomes easier for insects to find and pollinate the maximum number of flowers that are available to them, rather than hide in dense thickets of entangled lashes and leaves. And what a pleasure it now gives me to collect fragrant, crispy greens! They no longer have to be looked for long: they are all in sight. In addition, I no longer trample beds as before, and do not damage tender shoots and leaves.
Link by topic - Growing cucumbers on the trellis - what is good about this method
Miracle cage mesh for cucumbers
Last year, I accidentally saw in the garden shop a trellis net specially designed for cultivation of long-span plants. Already aware of all the advantages of the vertical way of growing cucumbers, I happily purchased this
goods and had time to evaluate its merits in the same season. The height of the net was just 2 m, and I was able to fix it without difficulty on the dug pipes and stretch along the entire length of the bed.
I was very sorry that I did not find out about this wonderful invention before, because now I do not have to spend time on the garter of the weaves: I just direct them between the cells having the optimal size 15x 15cm, and they themselves tend to it with tenacious tendrils. Those who have at least once tried to grow cucumbers on trellis, are unlikely to be able to abandon this method. After having once spent time and energy on the construction of a support, you can significantly reduce the cost of care throughout all subsequent summer seasons.
Garter Methods
There are different ways of tying cucumbers, and each summer resident can choose among them the most acceptable for themselves or include savvy and invent any other support from the available materials at hand.
For example, my neighbor in the country ties up cucumbers in a very original way. Draws several circles with a diameter of about 1 m on the bed. A high wooden stake is hammered into the center of each, at the end of which is a small clove. Then he digs shallow annular grooves around the stakes and plant cucumbers in them.
When the shoots reach 20 - 30 cm, it binds to the carnation several pieces of twine (depending on the number of plants), the second end of which free loop fastens to the stems. As it grows, twists the whips around the twine, and subsequently on its bed are formed such cucumber "huts", attracting the looks of all passers-by.
Other neighbors similarly wrap the cucumber whips around the twine, but as a support use dug along the edges of the beds thick wooden beams, on top of which nailed a long rake. Cucumbers they are planted in a line and twine tied to the rack above each separate bush. By the way, they are pensioners and live at the dacha constantly throughout the season. Therefore, if suddenly cold rains begin to fall in the summer, they throw a film on the trellis, attaching the clothespins to the twine, and thus save the plants from excessive moisture. Similarly, they do during the summer heat, shading cucumbers from the scorching sun at noon hours, but instead of a film, use lutrasil.
Formation of lashes in cucumbers
Cultivation of cucumbers on the trellis, in addition to other pleasant moments, allowed me to try and principles of the formation of the weaving, which I learned from the special literature. This technique makes it possible not only to restrain the growth of green mass, but also to regulate the process of fruit formation. When I allowed the cucumbers to roam freely on the ground, there could be no question of any formation: it was simply impossible to follow the growth point of each of the tangled shoots.
But with vertical growth, the stems, leaves and ovaries are visible, which makes it easier to work with them. It is worth noting that different varieties and hybrids require different approaches to the formation of weaves.
Having mastered all the subtleties of the formation of cucumber bushes, I can say with full certainty that their yields increase at times. With the help of a pinch of certain shoots, it is possible to redirect the forces of a cucumber from the active build-up of long weaves to the tying of more fruits.
For example, I annually plant the old varieties 'Phoenix 640' and 'Monastic' in open ground, and they always delight me with their disease resistance and abundant fruiting. But since mainly male flowers form on their main stem, I pinch it in the phase of 5-6 true leaves. In their sinuses, lateral shoots with female-type flowers appear, which are precisely the key to the future harvest. I tie them to the support and delete the growth point on each after the 4th – 5th leaf. In this way I form highly branched bushes and significantly increase their productivity.
Modern varieties and hybrids have predominantly female type of flowering on all parts of the bush, and parthenocarpy varieties have flowers that form ovaries independently and do not need pollination at all. Therefore, their formation is different. When 3 - 5 of real leaves is formed on the main stem, I remove all shoots and buds from their sinuses. This technique is called dazzling.
If this is not done, then the ovaries formed in these areas will inhibit the development of the entire cucumber bush, which ultimately leads to a decrease in the yield. Above this level I leave all lateral stepsons, but I stop their growth after the third sheet, pinching the growth point. When the main stem reaches the upper edge of the trellis, smoothly translate its growth into a horizontal position, attaching a twine to the wire or the upper level of the cells of the trellis grid. Then I wait for the appearance of another 2 - 3 lateral shoots and I spend a pinch of the main stem. These, most recent, stepchildren let down down the pedestal and pinch their pava-saute about 1 m from the soil surface.
Formation in the greenhouse
The bulk of cucumbers grows in my open ground, and only to get the early greens I plant several plants in the greenhouse, where I also tie the whips to the vertical support. But since the hothouse bushes are lit up and ventilated worse, blinding the main stem is carried out at an altitude of 40-50 cm, and on the next 50 - 60 cm I pinch the side stepsons after the first sheet and leave in their sinuses one ovary. At the other side shoots up to the height of 1,5 m I remove the growth point after the second sheet, and in the upper zone, where the illumination rises, I leave on the ramifications on 3 - 4 leaf.
After the main stem of the upper level is reached, the trellis is formed similarly to the plants of the open ground, letting a couple of lashes down. Thus, I increase the load on the upper part of the bush. In the lower part, this method of formation excludes thickening and improves ventilation, which in turn protects greenhouse cucumbers from damage by radical decay.
For a cucumber bush branching is a natural process, therefore I am engaged in the formation of lashes regularly throughout the vegetative period of this culture. Gak as I am on the dacha only on weekends, then, accordingly, I spend these works once a week, but in no case less often. Otherwise, the shoots outgrow, and the proper effect of the formation is not obtained. In addition, on plants I remove all yellowed and damaged leaves.
Garter and the formation of cucumbers seemed to me a difficult task only when I became acquainted with the subtleties of this process in theory. In practice, everything turned out to be simpler. By the way, thanks to this approach, I began to plant a much smaller number of plants.
Advice of a specialist
Operations on the formation of bushes, as well as the removal of unnecessary shoots and dying leaves spend early in the morning, so that until the evening the wounds dried up and dragged on. Cut the cuts with sharp clean scissors and never leave the stumps. In addition, do not touch large whips if they are accidentally fixed with antennae in an undesirable direction for you. If you change their position and rotate leaves and ovaries in the direction opposite to their original growth, this will negatively affect their further development.
WHERE WITHOUT PROBLEMS?
CUCUMBERS HAVE NOT TOO FURNISHING CULTURE, BUT TIME FROM TIME EVEN THEY CAN THROW THE GARDEN AN ANY TASK. WE WILL TELL WHAT TO DO IF ...
... cucumbers grow ugly
Deformation of the greens is a sign of imbalance in plant nutrition. So the cucumber reports what exactly it lacks:
a fruit resembling a light bulb or a pear (narrowing at the stem and widening at the tip), speaks of potassium deficiency. At the same time, a brown border may appear on the edges of the leaves. Solve the problem will help a half-liter of ash on 10 l of water. Stir everything, let stand, water on 1 l under the bush;
thickened at the stem and tapering towards the end of the greens - a signal of nitrogen starvation.
Thus it is possible to notice, that leaves on cucumber lashes began to grow smaller and grow pale, shoots became thin. The problem will be solved by organic top dressing (herbal infusion, mullein solution or chicken manure);
cucumbers "with waist" (narrowing in the middle of the fetus) are formed most often due to large temperature changes. Usually it happens at the end of summer, when the days are hot, and the nights are already cold. The shelter will help to avoid such a problem;
curved, arched green can be a consequence of uneven soil moisture, for example, abundant watering after a severe drought. In hybrids, a similar phenomenon occurs in the case of cross pollination. Proper care of plants will prevent the occurrence of this defect.
... cucumbers are bitter
Bitterness is associated with the formation of cucurbitacin. And this substance is produced in cucumbers under the influence of stress, which can become both drought and sharp temperature changes, and other adverse effects - extreme cucumbers do not like.
What to do?
The most reliable way to solve the problem is to give preference to modern varieties and hybrids, which genetically lack the ability to produce cucurbitin.
Such greens will not be bitter, even if there are stress factors. But take care of planting is also not superfluous: plenty of pochte their pets, mulch the soil to conserve moisture, protect plants from temperature fluctuations - then the taste of cucumbers will only please.
... leaves on cucumber lashes turn yellow
If the season comes to an end, the yellow leaves are a natural phenomenon. " It is possible to prolong the life of the plant by bending the lash to the ground and partially sprinkling it with soil: the cucumbers well form the accessory roots, which will help the bush get additional nutrition and rejuvenate.
When the leaves turn yellow before the time, it can signal a lack of nitrogen. If the plant also lags behind in growth, has thin, weakened shoots, the diagnosis can be no doubt. Feed the cucumbers nitrophous (2 ch. Spoons on 3 l of water, bring 1 - 2 glass under the bush) or organic fertilizer.
... cucumbers do not set fruit
There are several reasons for this:
There was no pollination. Cucumbers are bee-dusted and parthenocarpic (forming fruits without pollination). If you plant bee-dusted varieties in a greenhouse, where insects can not reach, there will be no fruit. Cucumbers are not tied up on such plants and in the open ground if the weather is cold or rainy (insect pollinators do not fly).
TOO HOT
Cucumbers are thermophilic, but too high air temperature (most often it happens in greenhouses in the height of summer) leads to the fact that the fruit is not tied.
TOO MUCH NITROGEN
This macronutrient stimulates the growth of green mass to the detriment of fruit bearing. In overfed plants usually large, juicy leaves, powerful stems, but the flowering is weak, the fruit is tied little or not formed at all.
YOU USED FRESH SEEDS
Cucumbers have one feature: plants from fresh (last year's) seeds form many male flowers (a void), and the appearance of women can linger. The seeds were sung 2 - 3 a year before sowing, from which plants are obtained, on which female flowers appear simultaneously with male flowers, and hence fruiting begins earlier.
... the plant wilt
If the externally healthy cucumber suddenly begins to fade, it is possible that the root system is damaged. Can and rodents work, and excess moisture to affect - the reasons are different. Carefully rake the ground at the base of the stem. If the root necks have rotted and become brown, the plant is affected by root rot. The broken roots indicate the involvement of underground pests. A plant with damaged roots can be tried to save. Cucumbers are well rooted, so it is enough to bend the shoots to sprinkle it with soil - after some time in this place, roots are formed.
If the examination revealed that the roots are not damaged, the wilting of the plant is most likely associated with a viral disease - verticillium wilt (wilt). In this case, it should be removed as soon as possible so that the disease does not spread.
... small holes appear on the leaves
This is how the traces of sunburn occurring in plants in greenhouses look like. Due to temperature differences, condensation forms on the film at night. Getting on the leaves, the droplets work like magnifying glasses - lift the sheet plate and burn it through the rays at the green of the sun.
On a note: How to store cucumbers in summer
In summer, of course, it's best to tear the cucumbers straight from the weeds and at once consume them for food. And yet, cases where it is necessary to keep the greens for a week, and maybe even a month, are not uncommon. How to do it?
On the same principle - the creation of a film on the surface of cucumbers, which prevents the evaporation of moisture and the penetration of air involved in the decomposition of organic substances, another method is based. But it is absolutely harmless, since food raw materials are used. Freshly collected greens must be washed with boiled water, then thoroughly wiped and gently coated with egg white so that there are no uncovered places. Cucumbers must be with a stalk, they are suspended for it, so that the protein dries up and forms a reliable film. They are stored in this form for a month or more.
In the cellar and cellar
The optimal conditions for storing cucumbers - humidity 90-95% and temperature plus 5-6 degrees - make it possible to keep vegetables in a "natural" form for 2-3 weeks. These parameters are usually easy to withstand in cellars and cellars. Zelentsy is best placed in thin plastic bags with a capacity of 2-4 kg. Previously, it is worth breaking off the remaining inflorescences and wrap each fruit with a paper towel or towel. You do not need to wash the cucumbers.
Packages are filled approximately two-thirds and the upper part is bent, but the bag itself is not tied or sealed. Lack of packaging provides a small influx of air to cucumbers, which they need. In this case, the polyethylene film creates an increased humidity of the air, preventing the wilting of cucumbers.
In a refrigerator
You can store crops on the lower shelves of refrigerators. But here the temperature is slightly lower, and the humidity is much higher than the recommended parameters. And if, as is often advised, storing greens in open or perforated bags, they will give their moisture to the air in the refrigerator and quickly become flabby. Therefore, you need to send cucumbers here in tightly tied bags, and even make sure that there are no holes in them. If this condition is met, the fruits will remain fresh for 10 days.
At room temperature
The cucumbers placed by the stalk down three quarters of the length in water, which must be changed daily, can withstand the same amount. A little less - 7-8 days - you can store greens in a pan with a tight-fitting lid. The last two methods imply that storage occurs at room temperature.
Under the "film"
There are some unusual cucumber storage methods that are in doubt. So, it is advised to cover fresh fruits with petroleum jelly - supposedly, in this form they can maintain good taste for a month or more. But the question arises: how then are they?
Ancient recipe
In a pot or an enamel pot, pour a little vinegar on top of a grate or a colander, add the cucumbers and close the lid tightly.
Note
Cucumbers with thick skin are kept longer than others.
Fruits with white spines are kept better and longer than with black ones.
The smallest - gherkins with a length of 4-5 and pickles -1-3 cm, intended for canning, can be stored for no more than 10 hours.
Council
Collect cucumbers better in the early morning or evening and immediately put in a shade or in a cool place. After harvesting, cucumbers are not washed, because after that they fade faster and are poorly stored.
© Author: Vyacheslav Borisovich ZORKIN, Lipetsk
WHAT IS THE COLLAR WITHOUT CUCUMBERS!
And it all starts with the choice of varieties of hybrids, so that the cucumbers grow tasty and beautiful, and of course, the harvest would be pleased.
My choice depends on the purpose and conditions of growing cucumbers. For example, cucumber salad varieties are not suitable for pickling. But many varieties and hybrids are universal, and therefore suitable for fresh consumption, and for blanks. It is very convenient.
I advise lovers of pickled cucumbers to opt for short-fruited varieties with a large tuberous surface. True, under adverse conditions, their taste may deteriorate - they begin to be bitter. For salting, this is not scary, but the taste of fresh salad will be spoiled. To avoid such a nuisance, you must carefully study the description of the taste of the hybrid.
Choose those in which the ability to taste bitter is excluded at the genetic level. For example, Zozulya F1, Maly-Shock-Krepyshok F1, Pasadobl F1 and others. ,
Never pick cucumber seeds from the picture. Of course, a colorful photo on a bag of seeds can give a general idea of the variety or hybrid. But the most important thing is its characteristic. So carefully read everything that is printed on the package.
Greenhouse or open ground?
This is another important nuance not to be missed. There are both self-pollinating (parthenocarpic type) hybrids and those that depend on pollinating insects. The latter is undesirable to sow in greenhouses, otherwise you will have to engage in manual pollination of your plants. It is easy to do: you need to pick a male flower and transfer the pollen from it to the female ovary. But this is also a work that requires a lot of time.
There is another important detail that I advise you to pay attention to - the ability of the fruit to maintain a solid consistency without salting during pickling and canning, as well as a pleasant crunch. For this purpose, I recommend Crunchy varieties, hybrids Faithful Friends F1, Masha F1, Real Miracle Crunch F1, which are also devoid of bitterness at the genetic level.
HOW IT IS CORRECT TO SPRAY OUT SEED IN THE OPEN SOIL
Each year, spring comes at a different time, therefore, seedlings are planted in different ways. But I try to land until mid-May, if, of course, the weather is favorable.
The soil is starting to cook in the fall. I bring coarse sand from digging at the rate of a bucket on 1 square meters. m. If on your site sandy soil, do not need to. Next, add lime-fluff (500-700 g per 1 sq. M.) To reduce the pH, compost or rotted manure (5-7 kg per sq. M.).
In the spring I scatter mineral fertilizers (1 tbsp of ammonium nitrate, 3 tsp. Of superphosphate and 1 st. Tbsp. Of potassium sulphate per 1 sq. M), embedding them in the soil to a depth of 15-20, see
Beds form the day before planting. Usually their width is 120 cm, and height 15-20 cm. Holes do in
2 rows at a distance of 35-40, see row with row-spacing 55-60, see
I plant tomato seedlings in the evening or in cloudy weather. Two hours before planting, I sprinkle the seedlings in tanks abundantly. So earthen room when transplanting does not fall apart. When planting, I deepen tomato seedlings to the first pair of true leaves. Overgrown soot reclining, directing the roots to the south. Plentifully water and put a peg near each plant, to which I will later tie up grown tomatoes.
To preserve moisture, mulch a bed of mowed grass or old hay.
After planting, seedlings should adapt to new conditions for 5-10 days. During this period, I do not water them and do not make any dressings.
When the seedlings take root, I start to water and feed. When watering, I focus on the condition of seedlings and soil about once a week, 3 liters for each root, since sprinkling increases the risk of developing diseases. In hot weather I water more often.
I spend all the watering in the evening, and the next morning I’ll loosen the soil. After each watering or rain the soil is loose on 5, see the weeding, I spend, until the beds are covered with mulch.
When I see that the seedlings have taken root, the beds are mulched with hay or grass in a layer around 10.
This will prevent the soil from overheating and retain moisture. Even in the hottest weather, under the mulch, the ground is cool and slightly damp. This is especially important during the fruiting period. Even the weeds do not grow.
I spend the first top dressing not earlier than 10 days after planting. To do this, use half a liter of liquid mullein and 15 g nitrophoska, diluted in 10 l of water. Under each root pour out 0,5 l solution. I spend all root top-dressings of tomatoes only after plentiful watering!
© Author: Dmitry Kharchevkin, Bryansk
CUCUMBERS FROM SHALASH
I grow cucumbers without a greenhouse, but under an agrofibre shelter that protects the whips from the cold wind in the spring and from the heat in the summer. To do this, on the beds between two rows of cucumbers, I drive in three T-shaped metal racks - two at the edges and one in the middle - welded from pipes. On their ends I put wooden slats, which I secure with wire. In order not to hurt my head on the sharp ends of the pipes, I put yogurt bottles on them, filling them with wet sand.
Then I take a strong plastic mesh and cut it into strips 20 cm wide. I pin each of them with wire staples to the ground next to the cucumber bushes with one end, and tie the other ends to wooden planks on the racks. After that, between the rows of cucumbers, I dig grooves into which I pour water during watering.
I never pour water directly under the roots - cucumbers do not like this.
As a result, growing back, the lashes form "huts". I climb into them and collect ripening fruits. If I miss a few cucumbers and they overgrow a little, I don't get upset: I put them in a bag stored in the refrigerator. As soon as four kilos of overgrown trophies are typed, I make a very tasty salad of them for the winter.
And the recipe is as follows. I cut the fruits into rings and put them in a large enamel or plastic bowl. I pour 1 glass of sugar, 3 tbsp. l. salt, 2 tsp each. chopped garlic and ground black pepper, 1 tbsp. l, mustard powder and pour out 1 cup of vegetable oil and 9% vinegar. Stir and leave for 3 hours. Then I put it in jars and sterilize: 700 ml - 20 minutes, liter - 30 minutes. Then I roll it up with metal lids. This recipe has been tested over the years. Everyone really likes it. When the neighbors first tried this salad, they stopped giving me their overgrown cucumbers - now they needed them themselves!
© Author: Irina POMAZAN
CUCUMBERS IN OPEN GROUND - VIDEO (VERY DETAILED - RECOMMENDED)
© Authors: I.Kudrina, M.Gerasimenko
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- CONNIE F1 cucumber hybrid - my reviews
- Why cucumbers crochet and curves
- Cultivation of cucumbers for many years in one place
- Cucumbers in August - care and maximum fruiting extension
- Cultivation of cucumbers in the Orenburg region
- Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, on a warm garden bed, without chemicals (Orenburg)
- Ideal conditions for growing cucumbers: watering, fertilizing and lighting
- Growing organic cucumbers (organic farming)
- Cultivation of cucumbers in the Novgorod region
- Chinese salad cucumbers - growing, planting and care, my reviews
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For open soil, you must choose varieties of cucumbers that are resistant to diseases, to temperature changes, self-pollinated. I like Courage, Berendey and Gerda. They are fruitful and well against olive spotting, mosaic and powdery mildew. Fruit-bearing begin on 40-45-th day after emergence.
For the night, cucumbers, especially fragile, with the first leaves, and then the ovaries, should be covered with a sponge board or plastic wrap. In the afternoon, shelter should be removed, so that the plants receive the necessary amount of sunlight and strengthen, and not stretched to the light. Pour cucumbers in the open ground should be exclusively warm water and preferably every day a little.
The most important condition for good fruiting of cucumbers is warm soil. Cucumbers, as a rule, are planted on a warm bed made of compost, manure and a layer of land. Manure inside the beds preters and gives heat. And so that the heat does not evaporate, the bed should be covered with a dark film (especially in the cold summer), making cross-shaped incisions for the plants.
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MY OBSERVATIONS FOR CUCUMBERS
I will share with you the experience and observations on the cultivation of cucumbers.
Last year I used the following hybrids of cucumbers: Millionaire F1, Futuristic F1, Bystrenok F1, Bukhara F1, Herman F1, Near Moscow Evenings F1, F1 King of Market, F1 Chupa-Chups, F1 Summerman's Dream.
Bukhara F1 and Moscow Evenings F1 are salad hybrids and are not suitable for canning.
8 March, I sowed one seed of Bukhara F1 in a seedling package, filling the package with 1 / 2 and screwing it out. The second seed of Bukhara F1 planted in a small glass, and then transplanted into another package. After 3-4 days the seeds have risen. When the plants were growing up, I poured soil into the package for additional rooting.
In late April - early May, transplanted into a greenhouse. I put grass, a little urea at the bottom of the hole, sprinkled it with earth, poured water and dropped an earthen lump right into it. At the same time, it was badly damaged, and therefore I did not like the packages.
The plant, after transplantation due to damage to the coma and cool weather, slowed down in growth. And in June we shot the first fruits from this bush.
Since 30 March, I continued to plant cucumbers of all the above hybrids, except for Bukhara F1. I already planted them without any experiment with the container. They grew and developed quite well. For cucumbers I made a warm patch. To do this, I dug out a trench, sprinkled a little urea at the bottom, folded the weeds growing on this place, again sprinkled urea, filled the trench with water and covered it with earth with compost.
When the plants grew up, I began to tie them up, used polypropylene and flax fiber twine and threads from a filter thread filter cartridge, as well as clamps for electronics. First I pulled a twine, sticking a special hook into the ground, that is, one end of the thread was tied to the hook, and the other to the self-tap on the roof (if desired, the hooks can be bent out of the armature), then using the clamps let the plant up. When the plant reached the roof, I began to tip the tip to the side. To do this, I on the roof stretched the thread and with the help of all the same clamps tied the plants in the direction necessary for me.
Reading magazines, I see articles in which readers complain about super-bundle hybrids of cucumbers. This year I grew one bush of superbock hybrid Millionaire F1 in a greenhouse. I really liked this sort. Care for him was the most common, and he gave a very decent harvest.
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I also would like to share my experience of cultivation of cucumbers in the open ground. What do you need to get a good harvest?
I believe that, of course, loosening, removing weeds and watering. And most importantly - timely top dressing. Before the bushes begin to bear fruit, I feed them twice with an interval of 10 days with such a drug: in a standard bucket of water I breed 1 tsp. urea (or ammonium nitrate), potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
Consumption: for each plant a couple of liters. But during fruiting, I feed the cucumbers three times already (all with the same interval of 10 days). First feeding: in a bucket of water I breed 1 liter of mullein and 1 tbsp. l nitrofoski. Second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 3 tbsp. l wood ash and 1 tsp. dry powder of sodium humate. Third feeding: on a bucket of water - 1 tbsp. l azofoski. As for watering, I do it only with warm water and only in the afternoon - at 16.00.
Of course, I do not forget about the formation of bushes: when the whips reach the length in 1 m, I pinch the top (I do the same with the side shoots, but I allow them to grow only up to 50 cm).
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Cucumbers - until late autumn
I always succeed in cucumbers - bear fruit until late fall. What am I doing?
In the autumn, I dig up the soil on the full bayonet of the shovel, while simultaneously introducing the manure. In the spring, as soon as it's possible to do, I repeat the procedure, but already half a pound of shovel. After that, I always cover the bed with a film so that the land gets warmer. And before sowing, I make grooves with depth 7-8, see. And, after pouring them with hot water, I spread a mixture of peat and soil. Then, at a distance of 10 cm from each other, I lay out the seeds of cucumbers that had by then entered. I sprinkle them with a layer of the same peat mixture with soil and cover with a film. The emerging shoots do not touch the shelter, because they grow on a small depression. A film helps to keep the heat.
When the plants form 3-4 real leaflets, I set the arcs and stretch the film on them. Further everything, as usual: watering (necessarily warm water), weekly top dressing with a solution of Mullein with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer and a glass of ash on 10 l of water. During the fruiting process I remove the film with arcs so that the bees, bumblebees and other insects can pollinate the flowers of the cucumber. And to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, before the appearance of the fruit, I spray the plants 2-3 times every 5 days with a solution of Mullein infusion.
I pick cucumbers every 1-2 days so that they do not outgrow, and others are allowed to develop freely. Of all the varieties and hybrids, I prefer to grow a mid-season bee pollinator hybrid Farmer. The cucumbers are of optimal length - 10-12 cm, besides crispy and juicy. This is a relatively cold-resistant variety that easily tolerates our not always warm summer.
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To get a good crop of greenhouse cucumbers, you need to create comfortable conditions for them. The main thing is that air temperature and soil temperature should be approximately equal and kept within 20-30 °.
Cucumbers do not like when the “head” is warm and the “legs” are cold. Under these conditions, they slow down growth and become susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. Therefore, in the base of greenhouse beds, you also need to lay biofuel, and ventilate through the vents. In no case should you water the cucumbers with cold water. -
The night temperature should not differ from the daytime temperature by more than 6-7 °.
Greenhouse cucumbers also require high air humidity - up to 90%. Therefore, it is undesirable to grow them in the same "room" with tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, which under such conditions are poorly tied fruits or shed ovary.
But at such a high humidity, the stability of the temperature is especially important so that the dew harmful to plants does not fall out. If it is impossible to avoid a night temperature drop, then closer to the evening, the greenhouse should be ventilated better, lowering the humidity, and watering in the morning so that the humidity again rises from the fumes.
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If cucumbers are grown outdoors, it is important to choose a sunny and draft-protected place for them.
Grades with long lashes, requiring garters on the trellis, it is good to plant on the south side near the wall of the building or a blind boardwalk. Such a wall
serves also as a protection against wind, and a heat accumulator, and a support for securing twine.
If the garden is located in the middle of a flat garden, then on the side of the prevailing wind you can sow something tall: a curly bean on the supports, sunflower, corn, beans.
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There are not many places in the greenhouses, so I can grow everything I can, vertically. This applies to cucumbers.
Firstly, I plant cucumbers every year, so I immediately pulled and ground horizontally horizontally over the beds a quality steel wire. Unlike ropes, it does not become moldy and will not become a haven for pests. Wire trellises are located in parallel, at a distance not less than 1 m.
Secondly, I begin to tie up cucumbers a week after transplanting seedlings. I carry out the garter in a checkerboard pattern: one whip - on the 1st wire, the next - on the 2nd. Here I already use a rope or twine. I attach the stems to the eyelets, and the upper end of the rope to the wire.
Thirdly, cucumbers need sun. The top of the whip will tend to up. But, as soon as it reaches the wire, it will start to curl over it and create a kind of "roof" that will shade the lower part of the plant. To avoid this, I direct the growth down from the wire. If it does not work, I pinch the shoot.
And the last: all the "surgery" for the removal of shoots and leaves I spend only sharp garden scissors. Accurate wounds after this operation are tightened faster and easier than if you sever the shoots manually.
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I heard about spraying vegetables with milk. Someone will seem to throw out money, and we have a few cows, so we do not experience a deficit of milk, and if such a feeding is really effective, we can afford to use it. How is milk supplement prepared for which crops are applied?
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In pure form, milk as a top dressing for vegetable and garden crops is rarely used. More often used milk whey, which is a source of mineral substances (calcium, potassium, phosphorus), and organic (some amino acids, lactose). The solution of whey is also used as a preventive agent for combating certain diseases of plants, especially fungal nature (late blight, powdery mildew). Make traps from dairy whey for insect pests, filling it with containers and suspending to the crown of the tree for the night. In the form of top dressing (including foliar), whey is used for processing tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers, squash, flowers (especially roses). When using whey as root supplement, it is diluted with water in the ratio 1: 10. For irrigation, usually diluted with water, taking 1 part of the serum on the 3 part of the water. Often a small amount of household soap shavings is also added.
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Cucumbers have male and female flowers. When pollen from a male plant falls on the female pistil, pollination occurs and an ovary occurs. But everything is so simple only in theory - in practice, all sorts of incidents happen. For example, if in May-June the temperature of the soil drops below +15 ° C, then the plant stops growing. As a result, at least flowering is delayed, but in the worst case it does not occur at all. Exit: close the greenhouse at night and monitor the temperature of not only the air, but also the ground. To do this, you can buy a soil thermometer.
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The main thing I suffer from often cucumbers is peronosporosis (downy mildew, LMR)
Primary infection. The causative agent is retained in seeds on plant remains, capable of overwintering not only in greenhouses, but also in open ground.
In the spring at a temperature of 15-20 degrees there are signs of infection of plants (already on the third or fourth leaves).
All summer, the causative agent of peronosporosis is easily tolerated with drops of moisture from the open ground to greenhouses and greenhouses and back. The number of diseased plants is increasing.
Symptoms
On the upper side of the sheet, angular yellow-green spots appear. On them, but from the underside of the leaf, a raid of grayish-violet color is formed.
The number and size of the spots on the leaves increase, they merge, the leaf is twisted.
With high humidity, the disease spreads, and after a few days already on all plants in the greenhouse there are symptoms of defeat.
preventive measures
In cloudy or rainy weather, it is better to cancel watering.
And with the urgent need to apply watering plants in the morning, so that until the evening it was possible to reduce the humidity of the air to the required limits. Do not water plants with cold water, with insufficient air temperature and excessive humidity of soil and air;
Foliar treatment of plants with microelements and growth regulators - "Elin-Ex-tra", "Zircon".
Spraying young plants (3-5 leaves) and subsequent treatments - before harvesting the first fruits.
A delay of 1-2 days will no longer save plants from severe disease damage and, ultimately, death.
With a strong spread of peronasporosis with chemical weapons, spray no more than 2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
IMPORTANT
Peronosporosis occurs when affected by fungi from the family Peronosporaceae. Bordeaux mixture does not help in the fight against peronosporosis.
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Anthracnose on cucumbers, or cucumber coppers, usually appears in late August. The reason is the sharp changes in daily temperatures plus frequent cold
rains. I am an opponent of spraying vegetables with chemicals, so I use only folk remedies. Firstly, in order to reduce the likelihood of cucumbers becoming infected with anthracnose, I observe crop rotation - I never sow cucumbers on the same bed for 2 years in a row.
Secondly, in the autumn I never leave cucumber leaves to rot in the garden. I dig it out with roots and burn it. I do not even put it in the compost pile, so that the fungus, if it is on the tops, did not spread and would not infect all plantings the next year.
Thirdly, I do not use polyethylene film for a greenhouse twice. The fungus that causes anthracnose has a long-term ability to remain viable and spread through films, non-woven materials, working gloves, tools, so I do not risk it.
Fourthly, during the onset of the August cool, I close the cucumbers for the night with a film. It protects them well from dew and low temperatures, and cucumber bushes continue to bear fruit until September.
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The bitterness of the fruits of zucchini, zucchini and other pumpkin gives cucurbitin - a toxic substance that these vegetable plants produce as protection against pests. Breeders have already worked on the problem and bred varietal plants that do not contain cucurbitacin.
However, if the fruits suffer from heat and drought, even the most cultured of them still produce poison, accumulating it in cages. This poison is also present in decorative pumpkins, and if they grow near zucchini, the tendency to produce cucurbitin can be transferred to the next generation of zucchini grown from harvested seeds! This is why every year it is worth buying new seeds from the Pumpkin family.
If the fruits are bitter, do not use them for food: they can cause nausea and vomiting, and in some cases even lead to death.
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It's a shame when you pick a fresh cucumber from the garden - and it is bitter. But you can avoid it!
Bitterness builds up when a plant experiences stress: it lacks heat, water, nutrition, disease and pests annoy. Therefore, during the ripening of the crop, planting care should be especially careful. In dry weather, regularly water the cucumbers, trying to wet the ground to a sufficient depth. For irrigation use warm water - from a shallow reservoir or heated in the sun in barrels. Never pour cucumbers with cold water from a well or well!
In August, the nights become cool, so you need to cover the beds. Since the cucumber whips have grown, put additional supports for the film so that the tent becomes more spacious. Shelter will help in case of prolonged rains, because a constant excess of moisture can also cause accumulation of bitterness. When collecting fruit, it is important not to injure plants, do not shift from place to place whips, do not break healthy leaves, do not break off the antennae. This condition is easier to observe if from the very beginning correctly to create cucumber vines: do not thicken plantings, pinch and remove superfluous shoots, direct and tie stems.
But yellow and stained leaves carefully cut out to prevent the spread of disease. During the harvest period, do not use pesticides. If there is a false powdery mildew i of phytophthora, pour in a bucket of water 2 l of whey and 10 ml of pharmacy iodine tincture. Spray the plants with this solution.