Whitefly pest (photo) - the fight and means that will help get rid of the pest butterfly
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HOW TO FIGHT WHITEFLY?
Probably, there is no gardener who would not know the whitefly. Very small insect in the form of a white butterfly measuring 1,5 mm. It affects many cultures: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants and houseplants. In recent years, the whitefly has multiplied, and more and more questions: How to cope with this misfortune?
ATTENTION AND AWARENESS!
Due to their small size, the danger of whitefly is often underestimated and misses the moment when it can be dealt with.
In addition, the secretive image of life complicates the struggle against the white-winged fox. The insect lives on the underside of the leaf, where it lays eggs, and then larvae feed there. Often the first individuals remain unnoticed and quietly multiply. But after a while over the leaves whole flocks of white butterflies rise, and in this stage it is much more difficult to fight with the whitefly.
If you notice at least a couple of small butterflies, take immediate action, do not delay processing for one day!
From this it follows that we must carefully inspect the plants, especially from the underside of the leaf. More often shake the leaves to flush out the butterflies to see them.
See also: The fight against the whitefly - folk methods
WHERE ARE THEY BREACHED?
Whitefly infection can occur from indoor and cut flowers purchased in the store, from purchased seedlings or seedlings of garden crops.
When choosing plants for sale, do not buy them if you notice a pest. Do not expect to destroy the whitefly. It is better to look for pure planting material.
SMALL, BUT VERY HARMFUL!
The pest multiplies rapidly and causes serious damage to plants. Larvae suck juices from leaves. And there are so many larvae that the entire lower surface of the leaf is literally dotted with translucent small “pimples”. Adult larvae sit motionless on a leaf, eating juices, and resemble some kind of “rash”, that is, a disease, not pests. With a large number, they greatly weaken the plants.
The most favorable conditions for the whitefly in the greenhouse, where it is warm, moist and there is no air movement. There for one season it can give up to 17 generations!
The damage from the whitefly is not only that the larvae suck out the juices. In the process of feeding, they release a sweet drop from which the surface of the leaf becomes sticky. A sooty fungus settles on such a sticky surface. The sheet becomes as if stained. The fungus impedes leaf breathing and metabolic processes.
Scientists say that the soot fungus depresses plants more than the whitefly itself. In this way, it is necessary to fight the whitefly in a complex way: protecting plants from both pests and fungal diseases.
HOW TO GET RID OF WHITE
First of all, you need to take all measures so as not to bring the whitefly to yourself. Do not buy infected seedlings, but put the purchased flowers on “quarantine” away from seedlings.
In the spring, if you notice pests on your seedlings, do not transplant it immediately into the greenhouse (there are more comfortable conditions for the whitefly).
Plant the seedlings in the open air or on the balcony for at least a week. It is good, if at this moment there is a cool weather. Ideally 10-12 degrees. This slows the development of the whitefly, and your seedling will get hardened. During this period it is necessary to treat plants with insecticides.
MEASURES TO COMBAT
1. Mechanical method.
If possible, plants should be washed, trying to wash eggs from the bottom of the leaf. It is advisable to use warm water (40-42 degrees), this increases the effectiveness of the procedure. After that, dry the leaves and start spraying.
2. Spraying. A good sprayer with fine spray is needed to carefully coat the entire surface of the sheet, especially on the underside. Sprinkle and soil under the plants.
3. Traps. Scientists have established that whitefly butterflies like yellow. Look for sales of yellow glue traps or make them yourself, covering the yellow cardboard with some sticky substance (vaseline, rosin with honey or castor oil). Apply glue traps to catch adult individuals. They hang them in the greenhouse, or else at home on the window while growing the seedlings.
4. The tobacco checker. Not to be confused with sulfuric saber, it can not be used on plants! The tobacco checker is ignited in the greenhouse following the instructions. From nicotinic acid, released during smoking, insects perish.
5. Fungitsidы. Against the soot fungus, which settles on the sweet secretions of the larvae, the leaves are sprayed with fungicides.
To effectively combat the whitefly, you need to apply ALL known measures in the complex. At 100%, it can not be destroyed, but it is possible to reduce the number and reduce the damage.
STEP-BY-STEP ACCEPTANCE
Many people think that “nothing takes a whitefly!” In fact, the drugs work, only they must be used correctly, namely - REPEAT PROCESSING!
The fact is that chemical preparations mainly work only on adult individuals and larvae that feed. Eggs
do not feed, therefore invulnerable. After a while, a new generation of pests emerges from them, which means that re-treatment is required.
In addition, the larvae undergo four stages and at an older age are covered with an impenetrable shell, that is, they are inaccessible to insecticides of the intestinal-contact type. But even systemic drugs such as Aktara, Confidor need to be repeated 2-3 times, although the instruction says that only one treatment is enough.
Spraying against whitefly should be done several times. No drug will destroy it immediately. Preparations should be alternated in order not to cause addiction to the pest.
Preparations of intestinal contact action should be applied according to the instructions in 5-10 days. That is, for the season 10-15 treatments are obtained! In industrial greenhouses that's exactly what they do.
After each treatment, the number of pests is reduced, and therefore, the damage is also caused.
On decorative plants, the use of chemical systemic insecticides is permissible. They are absorbed by the plant and have a longer protective effect.
Chemicals from whitefly: Aktara, Aktellik, Confidor, Mospilan, Pegasus, Fu-fanon, Phosbetsid, etc.
On vegetable plants it is better not to use chemical preparations, or to use extremely carefully. Follow the instructions, do not exceed the dose and observe the waiting period (the number of days before the fruit is consumed).
See also: Garden without pesticides and pesticides - care for environmental regulations
BIOLOGICAL METHODS OF STRUGGLE
For vegetable crops, biological methods of struggle must be used.
But! Herbal infusions on the whitefly do not work. Do not even waste your time. Use biological products, for example, Phytoverm, Bitoksibatsillin, Aktofit, Verticillin.
Recently, the protection of plants with the help of predatory and parasitic insects, entomophages has become increasingly popular. By the way, the method is not new. In the olden days, to protect the gardens, children were sent to the meadows for God's cows.
The natural enemies of whiteflies (lacewings and ladybirds) are able to quickly destroy pests. But at the same time the insect-assistants themselves must be many. Collect them and carry them into your greenhouse. It is easier to collect not flying red cows, but their larvae.
In special laboratories, whiteflies are also bred for other enemies, for example, parasitic fly-encarzia, a predatory bug of macrolofus, a predatory beetle of a delphistus. The problem is that they are sold in large lots for greenhouse farms, and it's difficult to get an ordinary gardener of entomophages!
And the last. If you have a whitefly, it will die in the greenhouse in the winter. But at home, on the windowsill, methodically destroy it, otherwise in the spring it will again appear on the seedlings.
- Use all methods of struggle.
- Use systemic drugs.
- Repeat the treatment.
- Alternate preparations.
- Keep vigilant control, destroying all pests, until the last individual!
Good luck in the fight against the enemy!
WHITEFLAME ON HOME FLOWERS AND ROOM PLANTS
If your plants have never been visited by a whitefly, consider yourself lucky. This pest is very fond of fuchsia, plumeria, nightshade, abutilon, sometimes appears on achimenes and hibiscus. Traces of its presence - light brown small dots - are often visible to the naked eye. After a while, a sooty fungus can settle on the affected leaves, and they fall off.
In early spring and autumn, in pots with large plants, I change 3-5 cm of the topsoil, in which the pests survive the unfavorable winter months, and in addition, the salts contained in the water for irrigation accumulate.
Sometimes I place and hang sticky yellow traps among the flowers. But with the active reproduction of the pest, this method is ineffective and is used only as a prophylaxis.
A good result is obtained by washing the leaves every 7-10 days (and more often) with a solution of green potassium soap or spraying the plants with this preparation (100 g of soap per 5 liters of water). A thin film that forms on the leaves does not interfere with the plant and at the same time prevents insects and their larvae from developing.
EFFECTIVE SOAP
Of the relatively harmless improvised means for dealing with whitefly, I sometimes use a mixture of dish detergent and sunflower (olive) oil: 2 tbsp. "Fairy" and 2 tbsp. oil for 5 liters of water. I thoroughly shake the suspension and spray the plants 3-5 times with a frequency of 5-7 days. According to my observations, this tool sometimes damages the edge of the sheet plate.
Lavender-scented moth tablets help in the fight against adults. I lay them out on the ground in pots or hang them on plants on an unbent paper clip. Some of the pests die in the first hours. This treatment is best done outside the home. It is also effective outdoors.
© Author: Irina GOVORUKHA. experienced florist
HOW I FIGHT WHITEFLY
Whitefly larvae eat into the leaves of plants and draw out all the juices from them. And the moth itself transfers a large number of various harmful infections to the leaves. On the street, she lives on almost all weeds.
I am always I'm weeding All vegetable crops in my garden.
Regularly examining the leaves vegetables, especially the lower part, where the whitefly lays its eggs.
If she found her larvae or herself, then I immediately spray with a diluted solution of Ecosil. It is a stimulant for better plant growth, a good pest control agent, helps from fungal, bacterial and viral diseases, including those caused by whiteflies and aphids.
I breed according to the instructions: 1 tsp per 5 liters of water. I mix and spray.
Sometimes I replace this drug with a remedy such as Biovert. It has no phytotoxicity. Plants tolerate treatment well. I dilute 10 g in 3 liters of water, leave it for a couple of hours, then shake it and proceed to the spraying procedure.
Immediately after treatment, the plant is watered under the root.
I do not forget about folk remedies.
I spray the plants with a solution of dried calendula flowers. Pour 100 g of marigolds into a saucepan, pour in 1,5 liters of milk, stir and place on low heat. As soon as the product boils, I add 3 tbsp. l. sugar and stir. Cover with a lid and leave for a couple of hours.
This infusion is very good at fighting whiteflies. I spray only in the evening.
I advise all gardeners and gardeners to periodically change pest control products - let them be afraid of everything, and we can only help them with this!
© Author: Nadezhda Stepanova, Povorino
FIGHT THE WHITEFLY AT HOME!
This pest can appear in the house even on harsh winter days. Usually I don’t see any difficulty in fighting it, especially if the parasite is detected at the larval stage and treatment is started in time.
PRODUCTS FOR COMBATING WHITEFLY
"Mospilan"
0,05-0,06 g per 1 l - single spraying
"Actellic"
1 ampoule per 1 liter of water to treat 5 sq.m.
Confidor
0,1 ml per 1 liter of water - spray once
Fufanon
1,5 ml - one-time spraying
"Fitoverm"
5 ml per 1 l - 2 times with a week interval
IMPORTANT MOMENTS
I treat with preparations only with the lamps turned off until it dries completely, otherwise the leaf will burn (in warm weather I work outside and in the greenhouse after sunset).
If treatment for whiteflies with chemicals is successful, then the effect can be enhanced by mechanical means (they help eliminate the remaining insects). For example, the following are effective:
- fumigators against flies and mosquitoes, placed at the base of the damaged plant;
- handmade traps: small pieces of plywood or popsicle sticks painted with oil paint or wrapped with double-sided tape.
© Author: Elena LIMANOVA, collector, Sochi
HOW TO GET RID OF THE WHITEFLY - VIDEO
© Author: N. Petrenko
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I transplanted the pepper from the greenhouse into a pot and brought it into the room. The other day I noticed a whitefly on the bushes. How to get rid of a pest in an apartment?
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“The whitefly multiplies quickly, and you need to get involved in the fight against it immediately after detection. Otherwise, everything will end badly for indoor plants. However, not all means of control are applicable in residential areas. We have to abandon fast-acting chemical insecticides. First, wash the leaves and stems of the plants with soapy water. To prepare it, mix six parts of water with one part of soap (preferably laundry or tar). Rinse the leaves especially thoroughly on the underside. This way you can get rid of the bulk of the egg-laying eggs and whitefly larvae. Carry out the procedure three times with an interval of 5-7 days. To kill adult insects, household electric fumigators, usually used against mosquitoes and flies, are suitable.
Fitoverm will also help. Spray the plants and soil in pots with a solution of this drug at least twice with an interval of 7-10 days.
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After harvesting the vegetables in the garden, I sow green manure (mustard or vetch-oat mixture), but the neighbor said that it is after the mustard that the whitefly appears. Could this be possible?
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Whitefly is a polyphagous pest. Among vegetable and flower crops, it prefers plants with loose (large-cellular) tissues: tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini, tobacco, fuchsia, pelargonium, abutilon, nightshade, balsam... It attacks mustard sown on green manure for only one reason: others There are simply no young and vegetative plants in the garden at this time. And she prefers to settle, like all sucking pests, on young and succulent leaves. It stops laying eggs after the temperature drops below 15°C.
The whitefly overwinters in the butterfly stage in various shelters, where the temperature does not drop below -12°C. In the southern regions, it most often persists on plants that overwinter with green leaves. It usually gets into gardens and vegetable gardens in the middle zone either with seedlings (since in greenhouse conditions the whitefly is able to reproduce year-round), or by spreading with air currents, the migration of adult individuals, on vehicles with southern fruits and flowers.
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I found a whitefly on the plants standing on the balcony. How to get rid of a pest?
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the damage is severe, spray the foliage with the Kin-mix preparation and water the Aktara plant once a week. Wash the window sills, as the pest can clog in the cracks.
In addition to Aktara, use systemic preparations: Confidor, Mospilan - dilute (according to instructions) with warm water and water the plants under the root.
Yellow glue traps will help to catch adults.
Check the leaves regularly. Nymphs of 4 ages live on them, pierce them with a needle.
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whitefly on cabbage
Last spring, all the plants were full of some kind of butterflies a little smaller than a room moth. But it was the cabbage seedlings that they ruined (they ate the leaves to the veins), despite the fact that they sprinkled it with ashes, ground bay leaves, and treated it with Aktara. What are these butterflies? How to deal with them?
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- The butterflies you are talking about look like whiteflies, but they do not eat cabbage, but pierce the leaves and suck out the juice. Eating leaves down to the veins is characteristic of the caterpillars of the cabbage whitefish and the cabbage leaf beetle (a shiny dark green beetle). You can fight them by spraying the seedlings before planting Aktara. To be sure, cover the planted plants with spunbond so that the solution is not washed away by rain or dew (as most likely happened to you). For 30-40 days, the plants will be protected.
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In the 2019 season, a whitefly settled in our greenhouse. Oh, and we were worn out with her! All tomato bushes were stripped of leaves, the tomatoes were washed twice a week from a hose and sprayed with a solution of tar soap. I re-read all the advice, but we still saved the tomatoes. In the fall, the tops were burned, the greenhouses were washed with tar soap, and treated with smoke bombs.
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Please share some effective ways to control whitefly outdoors without the use of chemicals.
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Overpowered by the whitefly. I cannot withdraw it with chemistry and folk remedies. She is everywhere - in the greenhouse and on the site, flies and flies from all over the area. Recently I read that entomophages are used in large greenhouses.
These are beneficial insects, natural enemies of the whitefly. Maybe someone has experience with these helpers in their greenhouse? Where can I prescribe or buy entomophages?
Please share, it's so interesting.
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How I defeated the whitefly
It all started with the purchase of a new plant, which I did not quarantine, but on the balcony to my flowers. And soon she noticed small white butterflies on them. Plants immediately "depressed."
Whiteflies spawned quickly. What measures have I taken: processed with pesticides, laundry soap ... It helped, but not for long. At some point, I even thought that all the flowers would die. But here I found advice: in order for the result to be 100%, the insecticide should be selected as a systemic, and the treatment should be carried out in several stages. First moisten the leaves, and then pour under the root so that the drug gets into the juice of the plant that the whitefly feeds on.
To fight the pest, she chose Aktara, repeated the procedure after 7 days, and a week later she noticed the result - the butterflies disappeared.
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If the seedlings are not grown independently, but purchased, one must be prepared for the fact that problems will come along with it.
To avoid this, when buying seedlings, I always carefully check if there are any pests on it. Often with plants, whitefly, aphids, spider mites are brought to the site, which then have to be hatched for years. After all, when spraying plants with insecticides, only 70-80% pests perish. And the remaining individuals are able to increase their numbers thousands of times.
Leaves should have a uniform green color. Any points or specks on them most often indicate a disease. The same conclusion can be made if there is a torsion of leaves or a white bloom on them. Of course, plants should not look weak: with thin elongated and even wilted stems. But too powerful seedlings should also raise doubts about its quality: it is possible that the plants are overnourished with nitrogen and it will be very difficult to wait for them to fully bloom.
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In the autumn she took home from the garden a bush of basil and rosemary. Recently I noticed whitefly on basilica. I processed Phytoverm - there were fewer pests, but it is impossible to get rid of them completely. How else to deal with the scourge, so that you can eat greens?
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- Biopreparations alone are not enough, since their effectiveness is not very high. Repeat processing one or two times. Replace Fitoverm with biological products with other active ingredients - Verticillin, Bowerin, Naturgard.
Against adult whitefly insects, set yellow glue traps. You can buy or make them yourself. Dense cardboard 30 × 40 cm in size, paint yellow-orange in watercolor or acrylic. Mix in equal parts castor oil, pine rosin, petroleum jelly and honey. Melt everything in a water bath, stir until smooth. Let cool and brush on cardboard.
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Whitefly: try to fight it with a solution of microbiological fertilizer, diluted according to the instructions. Spray 2-3 times, the interval is one week.
To sleep I dig it with a pitchfork, I try to pull out the entire root. Then cut off the roots, dry and burn in the grill.
I do not scatter the roots and do not fold into the compost, so that I do not reproduce through the site.
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سلام وقت بخیر ... ببخشید چندسال ک سبزی میکاریم تو خونه, متوجه شدم ریحان بعد از مدتی آفت سفید رنگ میگیره وکم کم تکثیر میشه, جالبه ک فقط ریحان رو میگیره, چندبار سم پاشی کردیم ولی بی فایده بود, نمیدونم چکار کنم, وقتی میبینمش حالم از سبزی بهم میخوره نمیتونم بخورم سبزی رو دیگه ، لطفا اگه کسی میدونه راهنمایی کنه
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One of the malicious pests of the garden is the white wing. Some, having heard this name, think that we are talking about a butterfly-whitish or cabbage. But this is a completely different insect, which, rather, resembles a moth, but smaller - only 3 mm. She has two pairs of snow-white wings attached to the yellow torso.
For us, the greatest danger is a greenhouse or greenhouse whitefly. It damages cucumbers, tomatoes, strawberries, sucking out the juice from the leaves. In addition, on its sticky sugary isolates a sooty fungus settles, the leaves become black and wither.
To protect greenhouses from this pest, it is necessary to destroy on a site weeds. Pins and doorways tighten with gauze in one layer.
It is also necessary to apply glue traps. They are made from pieces of plywood that paint yellow in attracting insects, and then cover with glue (melt rosin in a water bath, add castor oil, petrolatum and honey in equal proportions). A good effect is provided by sprinkling plants with clean water with washing the bottom of the leaves and then loosening the soil to a depth of 1-2 cm.
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"Gas attack" on the whitefly
Ogorodniki know that if a whitefly has got into the greenhouse with cucumbers, then it's very difficult to cope with it. But I found a fairly simple and effective way to deal with this pesky pest.
I did not want to apply the chemistry, but decided to just smoke the insects from the greenhouse in the literal sense of the word. He took burning coals from the brazier, poured them into a tin can, filling it in half. In the day I made a nail with a dozen holes in advance. And over the coals scattered a mixture of equal parts of tobacco dust and powdered chemist's daisy.
I put the jar on two bricks, fanned the coals, as in a grill, and tightly closed the greenhouse. By the way, he noticed: the longer the coals smoke, the higher the effect. Enter the greenhouse only after it is well-aired. Then the cucumber well watered, fed and poured to the roots a dry mixture of ash, sand and humus (1: 2: 1). Whitefly after such a "gas attack" disappeared.
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It so happened that I brought into the greenhouse a whitefly that lived on hibiscus. Now it multiplied, and there I still have different plants, rooted cuttings, tomatoes grow. You approach the bush, and from there - a "white cloud". Is it possible and how to get rid of it?
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I happened to have a similar problem. In the greenhouse, "occupied" by the whitefly, tomatoes grew and it was extremely undesirable to use "chemistry". I took advantage of the advice of the scientist Dmitry Belov. He recommended a piece of plywood to paint with bright yellow paint - whiteflies like this color. Then on this surface I applied glue "Pe-stifix", which I bought in a horticultural store. You can grease plywood with honey or vaseline instead of glue. The trap was placed near the place of pest accumulation. The white-winged fled to the honey and stuck.
She cooked the infusion of garlic and peeled them every day of the plant during the week.
100 g of garlic chopped and poured 0,5 l of water. Closed the container and insisted 7 days. Then 6 g infused in 1 l water and sprayed.
After waiting for the end of the season, I treated the greenhouse and the floral plants that were standing there, with chemical preparations. I used several times "Fufanon". This year, fortunately, there was no whitefly.
Galina Kovaleva
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In the greenhouse, a whitefly has been harassing for several years. What I just didn’t do! But then I was advised to sow leaf mustard in the greenhouse between rows. I did so - I took leaves for salads, pulled out flower arrows so as not to interfere with tomatoes and cucumbers.
And at the entrance sowed nasturtium and fragrant tobacco (like they, too, this butterfly is not to taste).
This year there were practically no whiteflies! Of course, this can be a coincidence. So next year I will try this method again.
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Whitefly is a typical greenhouse pest. In the open ground, her life is complicated, and it is usually not possible to create a large population. But in greenhouse conditions, the pest multiplies at a tremendous speed and can cause very serious damage. Whitefly can give up to 15 generations per season!
A single adult is barely distinguishable by the eye. It is a delicate little butterfly, like a miniature moth; Its length barely reaches 2 mm. Worm-larvae are even smaller, less than 1 mm in length. Both larvae and adults eat the juice and fleshy parts of the leaves, usually located on their lower part. On one sheet of cucumber or tomato they can accumulate a hundred, so that the damage is significant. Worse, open fungus leaves a fungal infection that quickly destroys the plant.
The trouble is that it is difficult to notice a lesion at an early stage: the pests sit from the inside of the leaf and do not cause visible lesions before the mass spread. And then, when the whitefly multiplies, the fight against it is no longer very effective. Therefore, the main thing is prevention!
The pest is afraid of the cold. In winter, the greenhouses must be freezed, carefully removing all plant residues. The top layer of the soil is best removed, and the remaining land is deeply digged. The construction and coating of the greenhouse must be washed with chlorine lime or fumed with a sulfur checker.
In summer, you should carefully examine the underside of the leaves. If you notice tiny butterflies, then try to wash them with water from a hose with a small nozzle-sprayer, directing it from the bottom up. In a few days, spray a strong infusion of tansy, Dalmatian chamomile, garlic.
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Two years struggled with the whitefly in the greenhouses (I have 4 greenhouses). Tried all methods. So that's it. I learned that the whitefly is dying at negative temperatures. But in the spring, I again carried it with seedlings, because the land was stored at plus temperature. She brought it to the house together with a flower bought at the market.
It’s like I’ve sprayed it with a product - and for a long time there is nothing, and in the spring it appears again in all colors. In short, you need to get rid of those flowers that this midge loves. I felt sorry for throwing this plant (Jerusalem cherry), and I put it for a month on a closed porch (you can on a closed balcony), and then out onto the street. The whitefly has disappeared. I also read that you can get rid of whiteflies using vodka. It is necessary to moisten cotton wool with alcohol (I used moonshine) and put it under a bush. Put a plastic bag on the bush and keep it in alcohol. Which I did. True, it was written that it was necessary to withstand the plant for 3 hours, and I kept it for 3-4 days. The whole leaf circled, then the plant stopped. This year I did not have whiteflies.
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In the greenhouse this year a whitefly has started. How to disinfect the land now?
Valentina Sazhina, Moscow
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"The larvae have remained in the ground." So do not close the greenhouse, and before the very frosts dig out the soil without breaking the clods.
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Precisely the same attack was and we. In 2011 year I brought from Ukraine a room flower-pelargonium royal. She had a good time with me. But there was a white-winged on her leaves, and I did not think of anything better than to plant a plant for the summer on the street near the grapes, and there absolutely casually grew two tomatoes. When the fruits began to ripen, I pulled the fruit to rip it, and my head (tomato high) literally fell like a white-winged wolf like snow. Only then did I pay attention to it. You can not even imagine how much it divorced!
Spraying plants from it is useless, it is all sitting on the underside of the leaves. We destroyed these tomatoes and were glad that they got rid of the whitefly along with the tops. But it was not there! The following year, tomatoes were planted in a greenhouse in a vegetable garden, far from the place where the pest was in the previous year. And what do you think? She got to tomatoes and in a greenhouse!
I will not go into details, as we fought with her, I will only say one thing: nothing helped. It was so much that when shaking tomatoes, like little snows, little moths flew.
They began to look for ways of extermination, read various literature, but found good advice only in the “Summer House”: plant one tobacco plant in the greenhouse on both sides of the door. They began to look for tobacco seeds, but in vain, we did not have them on sale. They gave the task to the children, and the daughter bought seeds somewhere in her city. The husband was doubly happy, because cigarettes are now very expensive, but he could not give up smoking - well, and you can smoke tobacco. In a word, he took up the planting of tobacco himself, he did not trust me.
Seeds the husband sowed in boxes at 20-x of March: as they are very small, they are better mixed with sand. They safely ascended, he watered them cautiously and moderately. As soon as they grew a bit, he raspykirovat them in separate cups and somewhere in mid-April brought into the greenhouse at night for all the seedlings, covering with cover material. He landed in the ground in early May, and planted two plants in the greenhouse on both sides of the door.
What was our surprise when we did not see a single pest in the greenhouse - for the whole season it never appeared! Thus, the husband killed several birds with one stone: he got rid of the whitefly, prepared himself tobacco for the whole year, and all tobacco waste went to the fight against aphids.
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Whitefly is a small butterfly with white wings that loves to settle in moist greenhouses and is capable of causing great harm to the crops growing there.
If I notice it on my site, I immediately resort to folk remedies. First, I treat the plants with a solution of garlic infusion (peel, chop, garlic, pour 1 liter of water, leave for 5 days and dilute in 10 liters of water). Secondly, I do not forget to regularly air the greenhouse - drafts are not to the white wing. And thirdly, I use color attack. I take white and yellow paper, cut it into squares, smear it with petroleum jelly or castor and stick them on the frames on the inside of the greenhouse. White and yellow attract whiteflies and it sticks to paper. I use each trap several times until it gets dirty.