Strawberries and crop rotation
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The alternation of strawberries is important!
It is true that strawberries are the queen of the garden. But, like any other culture, it requires crop rotation: it is not recommended to grow it in one place for longer than three to four years. After this time, it is better to lay a new plantation on another piece of land.
Strawberry litter
But the trouble is that in our small kitchen gardens it is very problematic to find an empty piece of land. But you want to grow everything, at least a little! So we have to re-plant the strawberries in the old place. And how to improve the earth, I will share my experience.
I have a one-time Gigantella and a repair of old varieties, my mother called her The Young Communist League. After the third year of fruiting, I remove all the strawberries from the garden, after collecting the last harvest. I dig the earth with pitchforks, choosing all the roots. I put garbage in bags and take it off the plot.
I don’t see any reason to add it to compost - it’s only to spread the disease around the garden. I dry the tops in the barn and in the future I use them as bedding for the hens in winter (I have several of them).
By the way, I noticed that chickens with pleasure eat strawberry litter: after all, there are a lot of vitamins in the leaves, which are so lacking in the winter. There is another way to dispose of - to dry and burn, but I do it my own way. I burn only the roots, drying them in the fresh air.
See also: Healthy strawberry = proper care
Somehow I took the advice of one reader: I dug out a trench in the garden and put the plant remains there. I thought they would rot, and it would be of use to that, but not only that they did not rot even after three years (I chose them afterwards all summer), melting still the flowers planted in this place strongly 6o!
Therefore, I came to the conclusion that they only need to be burned after drying, dry roots very quickly burn out.
Mustard prevention
After removing the strawberries from the garden bed, water the copper-containing contact fungicide of a wide range of actions (according to the instructions). Manganese is, of course, good, but it can not cope with the nematode and other diseases. After 7-10 days, I sow the siderates.
Sometimes I use mustard (it relieves diseases), alternating it with rye, which enriches the earth with nitrogen, and the earth after it breathes.
I am not marking the beds, I have four of them. Dimensions 1,2 × 6 m are the most optimal: it is convenient to process both sides from the aisle (if you go around the bed). And the beds themselves are fenced with boards painted with paint with the addition of 30% of used engine oil, so that they span less and last longer. In each bed a couple of lines of strawberries with a distance of 15-20 cm, row spacing of 70 cm is a safety net and a reserve for spring transplantation of young plants. In the spring I dig and disinfect the earth - I water it with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. For a day or two, I leave the countryman alone so that it becomes saturated and becomes airy.
Salted snow
I bring humus and wood ash, her strawberry especially loves. Then I take the bushes, which were rooted in advance from the first whiskers in the previous year, and together with the clod of earth I transplanted to a resting bed. I do not wait for the fourth year, and right after the third I harvest and carry out new plantings. After all, for the third year the harvest is reduced, and it is much more difficult to take care of than for new plantings, and if you wait for the fourth year, then there is hardly anything to collect. As they say, ovchinka is not worth the candle.
When planting, it is important not to deepen the “heart”: a plant with a deepened socket will wither away, and you will get a mediocre crop, if at all.
Reference by topic: Neighborhood and alternation of vegetables on the site-theory and practice of crop rotation
After planting, I water, and when I see that the strawberry has started to grow, has taken root in a new place, I start to feed with infusion of chicken manure with nettles, dandelions and other greens, which I will find in the garden (if only not grass or other poisonous grasses). I have wormwood, and burdocks are on the way. I add on the bucket of water 1 l infusion and on wet soil I pour under each bush on 0,5 l solution. And so for the season two or three times, with the frequency of 10-14 days.
Strawberries respond well to foliar top dressing, now on sale a large selection of various growth stimulants. In addition, several times sprayed with boric acid at the rate of 2 g per bucket of water.
Even during digging, rye partially grows up, I cut it with a small sickle and put it between rows: the mulch protects the soil from overheating. Young bushes develop well and in the first year they give a small, but still a harvest. The first berries at Gigantella are very large, up to 8 cm in diameter, and sometimes more. After fruiting, the leaves are cut off, they are sometimes amazed by the brown spot, and that the wind does not carry the spores of the causative agent of the disease throughout the site, the sick plants are carried away and burned.
The rest of the plants are sprayed with any fungicide, and very soon my strawberry grows green leaflets and healthy leaves in the winter. In addition to all of the above, I regularly cut off the antennae, which is unsuitable for rooting.
By winter I cook strawberries as follows: picking pine litter in the forest and hiding the planting, besides, she likes a little acidification of the soil. Sometimes on the last snow I sprinkle the beds with dolomite flour or lime, as if podsalivaya, it saves from excessive acidification of the soil and destroys harmful microorganisms,
© Author: Lidia KOSTINA, Voronezh Region.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Strawberries on the combs - my reviews and experience of planting and growing
- Cultivation of strawberries: double crop
- Growing strawberries from A to Z - planting and care (Belgorod region)
- Beds for strawberries on a sloping plot - big pluses
- What varieties of strawberries do ordinary gardeners advise each other - reviews and description
- Crop rotation for strawberries and vegetable rotation - checklist
- Seedlings of strawberries "free" my experience of planting and reviews
- Care for strawberries in early spring
- Strawberry propagation by seeds on hydrogel and peat tablets - my reviews (Voronezh)
- Strawberries: three crops per season in the Middle lane
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Our site is located in the lowland. Every year we bring the land, we try to raise the level of the garden, but the berries do not grow yet. And I love so much strawberries! Is it possible to provide the cook with comfort conditions on such soil?
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The most effective way to get rid of groundwater is to build a drainage system on the site or at least a drainage ditch that needs to be dug along the perimeter of the site. If this is not possible, it is necessary to make high beds. On such beds it is easier to care for the plants, the frame is quickly assembled and disassembled, and the crop matures faster at a height. The frame is made of boards, slate, plastic, rods. The height of the walls of the frame from 0,4 m to 1 m - optional. The length of the beds is -1-3 m, the width is 0,5-1 m. For better plant growth, more than 2 rows should not be done. Then the frame is filled with soil and soil, and you can plant anything, including garden strawberries.
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I grow strawberries in one row between grapes (the distance between plants is 2-2,5 m).
In September, I planted specially grown rosettes, the next year I harvest, for the third year I take off the second crop and start growing seedlings. In 200-gram cups of sour cream, after making holes in the bottom, I plant the outlined rosettes, not separating them from the mother's bush, and digging the jars into the ground. The rosettes quickly take root, filling the entire capacity with rootlets. And in September I take out jars from the ground and plant ready-rosette-bushes on the prepared bed. Not experiencing stress, the bushes continue to grow and leave in the winter strong and healthy. And I dig the old bed and sow the siderates.
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3 secret sweet strawberry
On one of my beds with garden strawberries, the harvest was not bad at all, but the berries were unsweetened. A familiar summer resident explained what could be the reason and what to do to ensure that the berries were always delicious.
Strawberry garden loves dark gray soils and black earth. On others, it fructifies poorly, grows small, without pronounced taste. Therefore, in the spring on strawberry beds you need to make humus and mineral fertilizers.
Under no circumstances should a moisture deficit be prevented. On dry soil, the berry will not be large and juicy. However, if you overdo with irrigation, waterlogging can cause fungal diseases in strawberries.
Strawberry seedlings need to be planted at a distance of 45-55 cm, in a checkerboard pattern. This is necessary so that all plants have enough light (otherwise the berries will be unsweetened), so that they are well ventilated and that it is more convenient to care for them - to loosen the soil, remove the mustache and, of course, harvest.