Application of nitrogen fertilizers in ammonium form
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The subtlety of the correct application of ammonium nitrogen fertilizers
In the fall, fertilizers are usually applied to the soil. To do this correctly, you need to know the features of these or other forms of these "fertility vitamins." Consider the most common forms of mineral fertilizers.
Nitrogen
The nitrogen fertilizers described in the previous issue were in ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate) and amide (carbamide) form. They have their own characteristics: thus, under the influence of the first crops, plants and their fruits can accumulate nitrates. Specificity of the second type is that in moist soil fertilizer can easily decompose into water, carbon dioxide and ammonia. To the last component (the most valuable, since it contains nitrogen) does not evaporate into the air, the fertilizer should be embedded in the soil no less than 20 cm.
In this article we consider nitrogenous fertilizers in ammonium form, which are devoid of the above disadvantages, but also have their own peculiarities.
Reference by topic: Mineral or organic fertilizers - what to choose?
Ammonium sulfate
This fertilizer, also called ammonium sulfate, is produced in the form of crystals or granules of white color. The nitrogen content is 21%, in addition, the composition of the fat contains sulfur - up to 24%. This element is also important for plants, as it is involved in the synthesis of amino acids and proteins. Sulfur makes the fruit juicier and tastier, helps preserve vitamins during storage, and prevents premature decay and spoilage of fruits and vegetables.
Nitrogen here is in ammonium form. It is believed that in this form it is better assimilated by plants than nitrate fertilizers (they include sodium and calcium nitrate, an intermediate position is occupied by ammonium nitrate). Most fully ammonium sulfate reveals its qualities in un-cultivated or neglected areas.
On soils where plants have been grown for many years and other mineral fertilizers have been used, some of the ammonium can be converted to a nitrate form. But this can be avoided if ammonium nitrate is used for fertilizing plants, which prevents the decomposition of ammonium sulphate.
The advantages of this fertilizer can be attributed to the fact that its crystals or granules do not cake, it is very simple to deposit them - it is enough to sprinkle the earth 8 during the process of digging and lightly patch it into the top layer. Even if it worked out according to the principle “where it is empty, where it is thick”, there is no need to be afraid: useful substances are evenly distributed in the fertile layer.
The fertilizer is highly soluble in water, which allows it to be used in liquid form, including for foliar top dressing.
Nitrogen in this fat remains in the fertile layer for a long time-it does not pass into the gas form, is not washed out by rain and watering, and is almost completely consumed by the roots.
In addition, crystals and granules have very low hygroscopicity, so fertilizer does not need special storage conditions.
It is very important that ammonium sulfate is completely harmless to humans, therefore, no special protection measures are required when working with it.
But there is one small “minus”: this fertilizer acidifies the soil. Therefore, on acidic soils, when applied, ammonium sulfate is mixed in equal amounts with limestone or ground chalk. At the same time, a slight acidification of the soil is useful for cruciferous crops - turnip, radish, radish, daikon.
The use of ammonium sulfate in dry form is recommended in early spring, during the cultivation of the soil before sowing. Average application rate -30-40 g / m2. For fertilizing 50 g of the substance dissolve in 10 l of water and use this amount for 1,5-2 m2. Such amount of fertilizer applied to potatoes increases the yield of tubers, increases the starch content in them. In addition, plants bypass the diseases such as heartwood rot and scab. When the dose is met, the tubers do not accumulate nitrates.
There are particular uses of ammonium sulfate on cabbage. It is very important to observe the timing of fertilizer application. This is done only during the digging of the land before planting or a week after planting the seedlings in the open ground. It is also important not to exceed the dose (up to 30 g / m2), otherwise, because of uncontrolled growth of the green mass, the heads may not get involved.
Thankfully respond to the feeding of ammonium sulphate with all spicy aromatic cultures. This food is especially effective for obtaining a second crop of greenery after cutting off such plants as parsley, celery, lovage. However, two weeks before harvesting, the feeding should be stopped.
Thankfully respond to the feeding of ammonium sulphate with all spicy aromatic cultures. This food is especially effective for obtaining a second crop of greenery after cutting off such plants as parsley, celery, lovage. However, two weeks before harvesting, the feeding should be stopped.
Ammonium Sodium Sulphate
This fertilizer has much the same properties as ammonium sulfate, but besides nitrogen (16%) contains about 8% sodium. It looks like crystals of yellow color.
This fat can be considered a “special order” of beets, which requires sodium for development (it is no coincidence that experienced gardeners water the plantings of this crop with salt water, because table salt consists of sodium and chlorine). When applied to other plants, the beneficial effect is less pronounced.
Fertilizer can be applied in spring and autumn at a dose of 40-80 g / m2.
Reference by topic: We fertilize the garden properly - what fertilizers for what
Ammonium chloride
Although this fertilizer, which is a white or yellow crystalline powder, contains a rather large proportion of nitrogen - up to 25%, gardeners and gardeners do not really like it. The reason is that there is even more chlorine in it - up to two thirds of the total mass of fat.
Most vegetable and fruit and berry crops react negatively to this component: it is not by chance that chlorinated water before watering plants is strongly advised to defend that the harmful chlorine passes into a gaseous state and evaporates. It especially affects the development of potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, raspberries, red and black currants, strawberries.
Otherwise, the action of ammonium chloride is analogous to ammonium sulfate. So the soil is acidified, part of the nitrogen passes into the nitrate form. There are no advantages to this fertilizer, and it is not reasonable to use it in the country and garden plots.
This fat is most suitable for agricultural enterprises that grow crops on large areas. They are “indifferent” to chlorine, and the use of ammonium chloride is economically advantageous, since this substance is a by-product in the production of soda and is therefore relatively inexpensive.
Ammonium sulfonitrate
In this case, manufacturers sought to combine ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate in one bottle. In this mixture, 18% nitrogen is in ammonia, and 8% is in nitrate form. An inherited drawback is soil acidification, which can be significant with systematic use.
Ammonium sulfonitrate is used for the main application in the fall and for sowing in the spring, as well as top dressing during the growing season.
Producers argue that this fertilizer positively affects the growth and development of cruciferous and root crops.
Organic nitrogen fertilizers
Although it is often possible to meet the assertion that organic, supposedly, gives a good supply of nitrogen, in fact, the content of this element is insignificant. This can be judged from the data given in the table.
See also: Mixing mineral fertilizers - how right?
Table. The content of nitrogen in organic substances
|
View Organics: |
Nitrogen share (%): |
|
manure |
0.5-1 |
|
bird droppings |
1-2,5 |
|
compost vegetable and from household waste |
TO 1,5 |
|
green mass (siderates) |
0,4-0,7 |
|
lake mud |
1,7-2,5 |
© Author: Vladislav PIVOVAROV, soil scientist, Vologda Oblast, Cherepovets
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Summer feeding for gladioli
- Application of nitrogen fertilizers in ammonium form
- Spring fertilizers - how and what to apply
- Fallen foliage: harvest or harvest?
- Kvass from effective microorganisms for potato irrigation
- Sowing green manure for the winter - what, when and after what - advice from a candidate of agricultural sciences
- What are humates and how to use them in the garden and garden - advice from k.s.h. sciences
- Drugs that stimulate plant growth - advice from a candidate of agricultural sciences
- Rye as siderat
- Banana Peel Fertilizer
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Now the plants in the garden need to be fed with nitrogen preparations. What is the difference between nitrogen in manure and nitrogen in mineral fertilizers?
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- Manure is an organic product of the processing of grassy mass in the stomach of an animal. That is, it is organic, partially already processed. because of what it is more easily absorbed by plants. However, as a fertilizer, manure is far from the best option: it contains weed seeds, pathogens, hormones, antibiotics, etc.
In mineral fertilizers, nitrogen can be present in two forms: ammonium and nitrate. It is preferable to use the nitrate form, especially in spring. In summer, you can also use ammonium, which is converted to nitrate only by soil microorganisms. The temperature of their vital activity is + 20-25 degrees, so in the spring they do not “work”, and ammonium nitrogen leaves with water in the subsoil horizon.
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I got a vegetable garden two years ago. All plants give a huge amount of greenery, even potatoes with a height of 1,5 m, but I did not apply nitrogen fertilizers. I guess the problem is in the soil. What to do?
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- The formation of many large greenery is a sign of the presence of a large amount of readily available nitrogen in the soil. This speeds up the growth of plants, but can damage the crops grown for storage - potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, radishes. It is also bad for wintering plants - apple trees, currants, strawberries, asparagus, perennial onions. With an excess of nitrogen, the ripening process is delayed, and the plants do not have time to prepare for winter. This means that in a cold and little snow they can freeze out.
But some plants on overfed soil like it (cucumbers, cabbage, lettuce, dill, parsley and other greens). Therefore, now I recommend growing vegetables that like this kind of land, and in a couple of years, when the amount of nitrogen becomes noticeably less, it will be possible to start growing other crops.
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Nitrogen supplementation by all rules
In June, during the active growth of shoots and the formation of fruits, it is important to feed trees with nitrogen fertilizers. their deficiency weakens the plants. True, and excess nitrogen is harmful - the quality and keeping quality of fruits during storage are deteriorating.
Therefore, the final conclusion about nitrogen fertilizing is done on the condition of the plant. Here are a few tips.
The average dose of nitrogen for top dressing is 9 g of urea or 12 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq.m.
Too small pale green leaves indicate that there is not enough nitrogen. In this case, increase the dose by 1,5 times.
Take into account weather conditions: in the cold and humid year, apply 20-30% more than the average dose, and in warm and dry - reduce by half.
Norms of nitrogen fertilizer on sandy loamy soils should be somewhat higher than on fertile loam.
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Many gardeners, following the widespread recommendations, make nitrogen fertilizers superficially (they do not fill up the soil). In this case, ammonium nitrogen evaporates into the air (weathering), and the nitrate penetrates deep into the soil, but at the same time becomes a competitor to phosphates and potassium, reducing their effect.
With a deep application of nitrogen fertilizers, together with nitrate nitrogen, ammonium nitrogen directly enters the roots of the trees. Nitrates gradually turn into ammonium form, which means they do not accumulate in excess in fruits. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizers must be sealed to a depth of 10-20 cm.
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In our region there are large farms specializing in the cultivation and processing of sugar beets. One of these complexes is located near our village. For gardeners, such a neighborhood is a blessing, since we are provided with cheap natural fertilizers.
Sugar makes a lot of waste. For example, defecate (filter cake) is brown lumps consisting of lime and extracts from beet molasses. After defecate is matured in sedimentation tanks for a year or two, it turns into an excellent fertilizer. Defecate is not inferior to manure in nutrient content, and surpasses limestone and dolomite flour in its ability to reduce soil acidity. Therefore, it is better to use it where the earth is prone to acidification, making up to 300 kg per hundred square meters under digging from autumn. But on neutral and chalky soils, it is better not to use defecate directly in such quantity directly, but to add it to compost.
You can also take sour buttermilk from a sugar factory. In fact, it is fermented, as silage, the remains of beet mass, from which the juice was squeezed. The smell of pulp, frankly, specific, and it is difficult to transport it. But put together with the garden waste and grass weeded very quickly turns into an excellent mature compost. On the edges of old settling tanks, you can collect ready-mixed humus, which for several years turned waste.
It's a pity that you can not buy treacle waste from our factory. In a diluted form this is an excellent fertilizer for berry bushes and fruit trees.
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Chicken manure is a highly effective and versatile fertilizer. It can be used on the site fresh, diluted with water, in the form of infusion with herbs, can be added to compost.
I found for myself the most effective and time-consuming method of its application. In the henhouse as a litter, I use sawdust and shavings (this is very convenient). However, any litter has a property to become dirty. Therefore, all poultry farmers regularly clean chicken coops, and the litter is mostly cleaned in compost. I take it right under the trees and bushes in the garden, after all, in fact, this is a ready fertilizer! I mulch a litter mixed with a dung, the soil under the trees, I spread a layer of straw or peat mulch from above. Due to the additional layer of mulch, the concentration of the droppings is reduced, and it does not burn down the roots of the plants. Litter gradually decomposes, and with sediments, nutrients reach the roots in an easily digestible form.
Fresh litter is not suitable for vegetable beds, so I use it the same way as most gardeners - after it has been lying in compost for a year. The overripe litter is good both for fertilizing vegetable crops, and for creating warm beds for pumpkins and cucumbers (I add bedding along with grass and leaves to such beds).
When the number of birds in my hen-house was over 50, I began to collect the litter with litter in bags and give it to neighbors. A year later began to sell it in flower shops. So I began to get thanks to the chickens let a small, but a pleasant income!