Subzimnium sowing of carrots - terms and grades
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How to sow carrots for the winter - recommended varieties for podzimnego sowing
Thanks to podzimnemu sowing, the seeds undergo natural frost hardening (stratification). Their surface is released from inhibitors - substances that slow down germination. And in spring the seeds receive a sufficient charge of moisture. These processes contribute to amicable and strong shoots.
ZIMU ALSO CAN BE SOWED:
Carrots, beetroot (only intended for this variety), radish, turnip, parsnip, Peking cabbage, dill, parsley, lettuce, spinach, mustard salad.
Autumn sowing of carrots has undeniable advantages. Firstly, carrot seeds are slow to germinate - in the spring they make gardeners quite nervous, since with normal sowing seedlings appear only after two weeks. With pre-winter sowing, there will be no such delay, which is actually an omission in the growing season.
Secondly, the root crops of carrots become larger due to the good abundance of early spring moisture, which comes from the melting of snow. Thirdly, the taste becomes more sweet and saturated. The last, but important advantage of podzimnego sowing is a greater resistance to disease in comparison with and with the same plants of spring sowing.
But it would be wrong to talk only about virtues. The sub-sowing has its minuses. For example, the consumption of seeds: they need to be sown up to two times more than in the spring. It is important to note the unpredictability of the climate in our country - some unexpected frosts, then suddenly thaw. In this regard, it is difficult to name specific dates for sowing carrots. It is necessary to guess so that the seeds do not have time to germinate before the onset of stable colds, otherwise all crops will die.
This is a dangerous crop in September - early October: thaws are quite likely, and after them immediately come frosts, fatal for germinating seeds.
See also: Subzimnium sowing carrots - grades and dates
When choosing carrots, pay special attention to the varieties suitable for autumn planting.
'Altai Sugar' - Extremely cold-resistant storage grade. Root crops are cylindrical, blunt-ended, orange-red, up to 25 cm. The pulp is crispy, sweet, juicy, with a small core. The content of sugars and carotene increased.
The magnificent Tutankhamun F1 - High-yielding Dutch hybrid of universal purpose. Root crops are cylindrical, smooth, blunt-ended, bright orange, 16-18 in length, with a small core. The pulp is juicy, tender, sweet, of excellent taste.
Children's Sweet - medium-early variety. Root crops are cylindrical, length 17-20 cm, weight 130-200 g, with blunt coccyx, bright orange juicy, sweet flesh and small core. A variety with a high content of carotene and sugar.
Beauty-maiden - medium-early variety. Roots are bright orange, conical, blunt-ended, length 14-16 cm, very sweet and juicy. The variety is resistant to flowering.
Red Star F1 - mid-season hybrid. Appreciated for its excellent taste, rich in sugars and carotene. Root crops are cylindrical, blunt-pointed, smooth, 20–26 cm long, 140–180 g in weight, without a core. Coloring red-orange. The pulp is juicy and very sweet. It does not shoot, root crops do not crack.
Marmalade F1 - mid-ripening, high-yielding hybrid. Roots are cylindrical, blunt-ended, weight 130 - 200. The core is small, the pulp is red-orange, juicy, tender, sweet. It is characterized by a high content of carotene and sugar.
Monastic - grade for winter storage. Root crop to 25 cm length, weight 140 - 220 g, with an elongated tip and a round core.
Sankina Love F1 super fruitful hybrid. Root crops do not break and do not crack. Gives the maximum yield even on heavy soils. The root crop is saturated color, blunt-ended, length 20-25 cm, very sweet.
See also: Sub-winter planting carrots
Advice of a specialist
Please note that dragee and ribbon carrot seeds are not suitable for sub-winter planting. Only ordinary, unprocessed treatments are suitable.
© Author: ANATOLY ALLLUYEV
SOWING CARROTS IN WINTER - TIPS AND REVIEWS ABOUT VARIETIES
MONASTERY CARROTS – TENDER AND TASTY
For the first time this year I bought seeds of the Monastyrskaya variety, which is mentioned in the article above.
According to the description, I liked the variety: the shape of the fruit is conical with an elongated end, the skin is even and smooth. The length reaches 25 cm, the color is uniform, bright orange, the core is the same color. The taste of carrots is very delicate. Very well suited for both winter and spring sowing.
I planned to sow this variety. I soaked the seeds for three days in a damp cloth, and then put them in the refrigerator for three days. Dried it out a little before sowing.
I prepared the bed for sowing carrots in this way: I poured a mixture of peat and sand (2:1) on good garden soil in a layer of 15 cm. On such a substrate, carrots grow well for 3-4 years in a row.
I spread the seeds in the beds to a depth of 2 cm. I scattered soil on top, but did not press it down. The bed was covered with film until the first shoots appeared.
To prevent my carrots from becoming horned and cracking, I thin them out, leaving a distance of at least 4-5 cm between the plants.
So that it grows well and does not suffer from pests, I sow it next to the beds of onions and garlic. The smell of these vegetables repels carrot flies and root mites.
Watering is very important for carrots, and this is the main trick in growing them. I always watered on time and quite abundantly. If you do not water regularly, the core of the carrot will become thicker, and the shell may crack. If for some reason I missed watering, then I was in no hurry to fill it right away. First, I slightly moistened the surface, the next day I increased the volume of water, and the next day I watered it as usual.
Watering was stopped 2 weeks before harvesting. But if the weather is very dry and the soil has become dense, the last watering can be done 7 days before harvesting.
METHOD OF SOWING CARROTS IN WINTER - VIDEO
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I once decided to plant carrots in the winter, so that in spring time would not be wasted on it. But to my great disappointment, I spent much more time on it than during a normal spring planting ... After the snow had melted, the soil on the bed was very compacted, I had to carefully loosen the aisles. And I did not notice in advance where the rows of carrots are located, so I had to loosen at random. When the seeds began to germinate, I was horrified: my whole bed was in bald spots! As a result, in addition to loosening, carrots had to be sown in some places.
By the way, the difference between the carrots, planted in autumn and spring, I did not notice. Most likely, now, knowing all the mistakes that I made during the autumn sowing, you could experiment again, but I, perhaps, agree with my mother: the candle is not worth it.
And further. At us the earth heavy, maybe, therefore at me the negative result has turned out.
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I plan to plant carrots so that there is a sweet crunchy root in both summer and winter.
Carrots that we eat in the summer, planted in the winter, in late October. For winter planting, I choose Vitamin 6 and Alenka. Both varieties are characterized by good germination and rather large root crops. Shoots during winter planting, especially if you cover the bed in spring with covering material, appear early - at the end of April. Therefore, the crop begins to ripen in June. And by the end of July I clean early carrots. I plant green manure on the empty beds to prepare the land for the next planting of carrots.
Carrots for winter storage are planted in mid-May. The late- and medium-ripening varieties are well preserved and give a rich harvest: Shantane 2461, Nelli, Nantes 4. With proper agrotechnics, it is possible to grow root crops weighing up to 500. Shantane is also good because it is not as sensitive to the mechanical composition of the soil. Carrots of this sort carry well even clay soils. Root crops give equal and large, as for selection.
I harvest the autumn harvest in the middle of September, dry it, put it in boxes and put it in the basement.
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I’m writing from Kolyma, you know what the weather is like here. Something to grow is very difficult, very damp, we live by the sea. I plant carrots in open ground, but it grows very poorly. Last year, beds were covered with polycarbonate - the crop is better, but a very large tops, it lays on the ground and begins to rot. My question is: is it possible to crop carrot tops? Will it affect the crop?
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KEEP THE CARROT IN THE FILLERS
I want to share the advice on storage of carrots for the winter in sawdust, which I keep carrots for 4 year.
For storage I use any kind of carrot. Sawdust for storage is also suitable for any, most importantly - to dry. I store carrots in small wooden boxes, fall asleep in 2 layers. I put a layer of 2,5 cm of sawdust on the bottom of each box and carefully lay out the carrots, after which I again pour a layer of sawdust, then again a layer of carrot and fill it with sawdust from above. With this method, carrots are well stored - do not decay, do not fade, maintains density.
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Somehow experimented with the late carrot and left a couple rows, planning to dig it after a strong frost. But when these frosts came, I completely forgot about carrots, and she stayed in the ground until the spring. When in April I came to the dacha, accidentally stumbled upon a forgotten carrot. She not only did not die, but it was very tasty! Roots were fresh, dense.
Now, every fall, I leave the carrots to winter for a while. But realizing that that year I was just lucky (the winter turned out to be snowy, so the roots were not frozen under thick drifts), I no longer hope for the weather and prepare the carrot for the cold.
In the 2-th half of October, I cut off the tops and leave it on 2-3 days, and then I pour the carrots with peat on 5-7 cm so that even with a low snow cover it does not freeze. From above I put lapnik, which will protect the harvest from rodents. If there is no peat, you can dip the tops of root crops with soil.
Root crops stored in the ground remain succulent, do not get sick. But in the spring, as soon as the earth recoils, they need to be digged, otherwise they will start to grow and form peduncles.