Small-sized gladioli “Little Miracle” and “Tiny Miracle”
Small-flowered gladioli - varieties t description
Have you ever seen a Little Miracle?
This question will put many a dead end, if we talk about gladioli. After all, traditionally it is believed that the more a flower, the better. However, not many are aware of the existence of small-flowered and miniature gladioli.
The peculiarity of these gladioli, and simply small flowers, is that they have a flower size from 5 cm to 9 cm. The smallest ones - Small Wonder (little miracle) and ViVonder (a tiny miracle). And let the size of their pink flowers do not exceed 5 cm, how many positive emotions these little kids cause!
Once a well-known Latvian breeder and passionate lover of small flowers Aldonis Verinsh bet with his friend for the superiority of small-flowered gladioli in front of large-flowered and giant. And confidently won it after both friends brought flowers to one of the central squares of Riga. Small flowers were beyond competition.
Look at the inflorescence of small-flowered and miniature gladioli: they have a much larger number of simultaneously open flowers compared to large-flowered and giant plants. The flower stem is usually straight and does not require a garter. Thanks to the dense texture of the petals, they are resistant to rain and scorching sun. And this is not all the merits of small flowers.
These graceful flowers are ideal for bouquets. There is no need for heavy outdoor vases, searching for a special place for arshin compositions, you get lovely and cozy chamber bouquets that you can put anywhere. In addition, small flowers, with rare exceptions, have early flowering periods, which allows faster formation of replacement corms, after the excavation of which you can obtain an excellent planting material.
Not surprisingly, every fifth new variety of gladiolus melkotvetka, and in the fields of foreign firms engaged in growing flowers for cutting, every third gladiolus small-flowered.
See also: Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks
As for the cultivation of small-scale cultivars, there are no special differences from large flowers, but it is preferable to grow them on a separate bed if there are enough corms. And if they are grown with large plants, then they should be planted on the south side to avoid shading. And in general, it is fine flowers in mixed flower beds in the company with other plants. They are elegant, harmonious and, I repeat, do not require a garter.
At the annual exhibitions held by the Moscow Club gladiolus, you can see wonderful small flowers that have a completely unusual color, including multicolor, with the original flower shape, super-corrugated, and also with fringe along the edge of the petals. It is already impossible to imagine a collection of gladiolus lovers without these delicious flowers.
It is gratifying that in recent years interest in small flowers has been growing steadily. Our tastes change for the better. And that is great!
By the size of the flower, gladioli are divided into five classes
- 100 - miniature - flower size less than 6,5 cm
- 200 - small-flowered - 6,5-9 cm
- 300 - medium flowering - 9-11,5
- 400 - large-flowered - 11,6 - 14 cm
- 500 Giant - over 14 cm
ON DISASSEMBLY gladioli are divided into five classes
- I analysis - corms with a diameter of 3,2 cm or more
- II analysis - corms with a diameter of 2,5 cm to 3,1 cm
- III analysis - corms with a diameter of 1,5 cm to 2,4 cm
- IV analysis - corms with a diameter of 0,8 cm to 1,4 cm
- Baby - tuber buds with a diameter of 0,4 cm to 0,8 cm
Flowering period |
Southern regions (Days) |
Average lane (days) |
Northwest (days) |
Very early RR |
less than 70 |
less than 75 |
less than 80 |
Early R |
70-74 |
75-79 |
80-84 |
The early average PC |
75-79 |
80-04 |
85-90 |
Average C |
80-84 |
85-90 |
91-99 |
Mid-late joint venture |
85-90 |
91-99 |
100-114 |
Late P |
91-99 |
100-114 |
115 and more |
Very late OP |
100 and more |
115 and more |
- |
Reference by topic: Gladiolus - planting, care and treatment of bulbs - advice of the master
Small-flowered gladioli - photo
© Author: T. YANGAEVA
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Gladioli - planting and care for flowers, placement of watering and top dressing
- Gladiolus Gromov: photos and varieties
- Gladiolus Care - Feeding and Pest Control
- Care for gladioli - 10 rules
- Technology of growing gladioli - advice from a professional florist
- Planting and growing gladioli is my experience and a few tips. Magnetized water and containers.
- Species Gladiolus - cultivation and care, species and reproduction
- Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks
- Gladiolus - planting, care and treatment of bulbs - advice of the master
- Small-sized gladioli “Little Miracle” and “Tiny Miracle”
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Why do gladioli grow not very large corms?
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There are several reasons for the formation of small corms.
If the gladioli are planted even in a partially shaded place, they should not wait for not only good corms, but also normal flowering.
If the flower stalk did not have time to cut for 30-40 days before the excavation of the corms, it will not have time to accumulate the necessary amount of nutrients and will be smaller.
If the flower stalk remains on the plant before the excavation of the corms, it will be very small, because it gave all the nutrients for the development of the peduncle, but did not manage to accumulate new ones. Such corms can dry
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Miniature varieties of gladioli, in comparison with their tall brothers,
less demanding care, bloom before and do not need to be tied. I plant the bulbs of these plants in the spring, as soon as the ground thaws and warms up, around the end of April - May. I choose a landing site sunny, without stagnation of water and strong winds. Bulbs can be planted in one place for no more than 2 years in a row. The site on which tomatoes and root crops grew is not suitable for gladioli. Sand and compost for loosening should be added to heavy clay soil. In acidic soil, like mine - ash or bone meal at the rate of 2-3 cups per 1 square. m
Immediately before planting, I soak the bulbs in a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect plants from diseases.
At the beginning of growth I bring in nitrogen fertilizer, and during the budding period, I apply fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus and potassium (all according to the instructions on the package). During flowering, I feed gladioluses with complex fertilizer so that the flowers last longer. In the heat, I must water the plants.
In the autumn, when the leaves turn yellow, I cut them, dig up the bulbs, clean them from the ground, dry for a week in a warm shaded place and put it in storage in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator.
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Under the protection of mint
Gladiolus corms are excavated in the first half of October, dried. A wooden box from under the fruit is covered with thick paper, I put corms there, I pour abundantly every row of dry leaves of mint (its essential oils inhibit the germination of corms, do not allow to develop rot), I cover it tightly with paper or cardboard and store it in the cellar until spring.
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Do I Have to Have Arrows at Lukovitz Gladiolus?
I noticed that many flower growers recommend that when growing children gladiolus to get larger corms break out their flower arrows immediately after they appear. Let me disagree with this. And why? I'll tell you ... According to the botanical structure, the gladiolus corm is different from the tulip bulb, which actually needs to break out the flower arrows to form a good bulb. In gladiolus, corms are poured mainly from leaves that do not dry as fast as a tulip. Therefore, I advise you not to break out the peduncles as soon as they appear, but simply not to let them bloom to the end. But at least three flowers must be opened and pollinated by bees. Thanks to this method, my planting material always turns out to be large and healthy, and young bulbs mature better.