Fight with late blight - experienced tips
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Typhoon called Phytophthora
Every year phytophthora leaves a lot of hard workers-summer residents without a crop. You groom, cherish seedlings, take it to the country in an electric train or a bus, worry that no one stepped on, did not damage the plants ... But the disease came - and there is no harvest, all the trouble. But together we are power, aren't we, friends?
Copper instead of mulch
For several years we bought seedlings on the market or at roadside traders. The crop was small, because seedlings, most likely, have already been infected with phytophthora. Traders often take it in hothouse facilities, and there, perhaps, it was damp and cold. And my wife and I decided to grow tomatoes ourselves.
A 4 × 2 m greenhouse was built from wooden window frames, which are full in the courtyards of apartment buildings (now many are changing wooden windows to metal-plastic ones). In the greenhouse made two beds, in the center of the passage. On one we grow seedlings of tomatoes, cabbage, beets, on the other - cucumbers. We plant everything on April 15-20 (on which day Saturday will fall). The first year in the greenhouse, everything grew very slowly, although it was warm. Later I realized that the heat at night comes out in the cracks between the frames. The next year he covered the frames with plastic wrap, and tomato seedlings grew well and quickly.
Seedlings are watered only with warm water under the root. So that she does not get sick in the greenhouse, we treat her once with a fungicide. Picking does not produce: I think that this is an extra stress for plants. We plant tomatoes on the beds as soon as they reach the height of 30-40 cm. Transfer the seedlings from the greenhouse into the solution of the fungicide.
In the prepared holes on the bed (the beds are narrow and long - for two rows) we put the rotted mullein and a spoonful of ash, pour plenty of warm water. We plant long seedlings obliquely in oblong holes to form a powerful root system. On this the first landing stage is completed.
See also: Fighting phytophthora: folk remedies and chemical methods from A to Z
Next, make sure that the grass does not grow grass (weeds), we remove it in time. After the rains on a clean patch the earth dries faster from the sun and wind. As necessary, we loosen the ground. Some gardeners recommend mulching tomatoes, but this can not be done!
Phytophthora only waits for dampness to form under the mulch. In hot, sunny weather we water in the mornings with warm water under the root. We feed only once, when the ovaries appear, with quick-dissolving complex fertilizers with microelements. It is better to have more phosphorus in the fertilizer, the tomatoes love it.
Each time after prolonged rains, drizzle and fog, we process tomatoes with copper-containing preparations. Processing stop two weeks before ripening. We stop watering as soon as the tomatoes begin to redden, otherwise the fruits will crack. By the way, no homegrown drugs can cope with late blight. We tried everything: infusions of garlic and onion peel, celandine, nettle, wormwood, solutions of soda with soap, potassium permanganate, iodine and much more, including tablets with metronidazole. The effect is zero. Perhaps it is effective in areas with a dry climate. There is another way to deal with late blight. Some summer residents in the suburbs of Vladivostok pull a plastic film over a bed of tomatoes - they make a roof. This protects the tomatoes from waterlogging, which causes late blight. But I believe that tomatoes grown in this way are more like greenhouse tomatoes.
Vegetables grown under the open sky are much tastier and sweeter than any greenhouse.
Universal Garter
With the beginning of the formation of ovaries we tie the tomatoes to the trellis. At the edges of the bed, drive metal bars from the armature and pull the wire or wire (photo 1). Grow only low-growing tomatoes of old varieties: Beginner, Volgograd, Khabarovsk pink, Pepper yellow, etc. Seeds are selected from the best fruits.
We bypass the hybrids. Modern hybrids are derived by genetic engineering, so these tomatoes contain GMOs. But what kind of animal is this, science does not know yet. By the way, in low-growing tomatoes, the yield is lower than that of tall ones, but chemistry is three to four times less to combat phytophthora. Tomatoes do not step in, the dried and yellowed leaves are regularly cut off, with the beginning of ripening we remove from below all leaves and processes to the bottom fruit.
Growing tomatoes in this way, even in the coastal wetland can be guaranteed to get good harvests. For example, last year, when the Primorsky Territory covered the typhoon of Goni, and after it passed a week of cloudy weather with drizzle and fog, we collected 20 ten-liter buckets of tomatoes! And as I passed other dachas, I saw that after a typhoon in many gardens the tomato bushes turned black and the fruit rotted. In seasons without typhoons, our harvest is 30-40 buckets. By the way, we do not sell tomatoes and other vegetables from the dacha, but we do the harvesting. From tomatoes we cook up to 20 three-liter cans of juice. After harvesting we pull out bushes and burn them. From the beds we remove all garbage and disinfect the land, this will be discussed later.
Disinfection according to plan
In small suburban areas it is very difficult to organize a crop rotation. And in areas located on the slopes, where the beds are usually fenced with flat slate - even more difficult. Sometimes the configuration of the beds does not allow for crop rotation. For example, in our country house, the beds of tomatoes are narrow and long, with trellis taut, and squares in potatoes ... In order to prevent contamination of the earth with pathogenic microbes, we disinfect it every year. This primarily applies to beds of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers.
So, what do we do? After harvesting and removing all the vegetation from the beds, we water them from the watering can with a copper-containing preparation. Next year, after harvesting, sprinkle with potassium chloride, boron and immediately cover with a new (without holes!) Polyethylene film. Along the edges of the film in the furrow we put bricks. It seems to me that chlorine kills all the abominations in the earth. With the first frosts, we remove the film so that the chlorine disappears during the winter. For the next season, we exclude potassium fertilizers in top dressing, otherwise their excess will be formed. At the end of the third season, we water the beds with phyto-sporin. Drug treatment can be done not every season, if the plants do not get sick and you have a good harvest. But in the greenhouse, the land and structures must be disinfected annually!
See also: Late blight - the main thing is not treatment and prevention
Just useful tips from me
Well discarded cabbage butterflies-cabbage hanging over the garden beds DVD (photo 2). They give such a powerful flare that all the whitecaps fly by.
Tie the discs better through a small hole drilled at the edge of the disc.
Tomatoes grow better on weakly acidic soil, so it is impossible to pour a lot of lime-loach and ash on the beds.
To grow well and bear fruit Bulgarian pepper, beds must be fenced with glazed frames. In this case, it is less blown by the wind (Bulgarian pepper does not like windy weather).
Wooden pegs for garters of tomatoes with repeated use must be disinfected with a solution of fungicide.
PS: After reading my article, many summer residents will decide that when I grow tomatoes I use too much chemistry, which affects the quality of the fruit. This is not true. The tomatoes are tasty and sweet. Everyone who tastes our tomatoes, notes a very good taste. One should not be afraid of drugs to fight diseases, but of excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil, which leads to accumulation of nitrates in vegetables. This is the sin of all summer residents, who grow vegetables for sale.
© Author: Victor G. Korenev Vladivostok
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Phytophthora affects plants growing at home
In hot weather, waterlogging is dangerous - favorable conditions for plant damage are formed by root rot caused by fungi of the genus Phytophthora (Phytophtora cinnamonnii, R. cryptogea, etc.).
Late rose, azalea, diosm (coleonema), boronium, chamelaceum and many other species are affected by blight. Their death in the summer may come shortly. Affected roots acquire a dark color. In the early stages, the leaves fade, turn yellow and dry up, remaining on the branches.
These signs are often mistaken for the symptoms of drought and water the plant more abundantly.
WHAT TO DO?
Water the plants without excess, focusing on the condition of the soil.
Protect the pots from overheating: dark wrap them with white paper or put them in light pots, on the balcony, prikopayte in boxes with sand.
Late blight is an infectious disease, from which there are no effective means. To prevent the spraying of leaves with fungicides based on phosphites. The introduced substance reaches the roots, preventing the development of the disease, and stimulates the production of its own immune substances.
The dead plants are thrown together with the soil.
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Miracle pill from phytophthora
For a long time, I suffered from phytophthora until the market advised me to spray the tomatoes with a solution of furacilin! I rubbed 10 tablets of furacilin into the powder, filled 10 l of water and sprinkled the bushes: before flowering, when the ovaries began to appear and the last time - in green fruits. It helped - phytophthora was not!
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In 2014 and 2015, the summer in our Urals was very cold and rainy. In mid-July, late blight appeared on tomatoes, and I decided to use the advice - newspaper mulch. The method works! Used it on varietal tomatoes. The greenhouse is divided into two parts, varietal grow on one half, hybrids on the other, they are more resistant to late blight. I do not tear newspapers, but simply lay them out in several layers, tear them off and, as it were, put them on the stem. I water in the aisles. In the autumn, when the time comes for cleaning, I burn everything.
A rational approach
Even in 2014, and in 2015, very early ripened onions planted under the winter. To ensure that the beds are not empty, I planted a salad, radish and Peking cabbage on them. A glass. Was pleasantly surprised: all the plants I was pleased. In the spring, Peking cabbage can not always be grown, and planted at the end of July, it grows fine. I sow her right into the garden.