Tomatoes - planting and care: questions and answers
Contents ✓
- ✓ TOMATOES OR TOMATOES?
- ✓ NITROGEN REDUCES TO THE HARNESS OF THE HOG
- ✓ HOW TO ACCELERATE MATURITY
- ✓ I DO NOT LIKE TOMATOES
- ✓ HOW TO SAVE CLEANESS OF VARIETY OF TOMATOES
- ✓ SIZE MATTERS
- ✓ OLD NEWSPAPERS SAVE THE RASSADA
- ✓ IF FROZEN
- ✓ HOW TO WORK BUTTON FOR TOMATOES
- ✓ FIVE METHODS OF FILLING ACCELERATION
- ✓ NUTRITIONAL SHOWER IS THE AMBULANCE OF TOMATOES
- ✓ CORRECTIVE TOMATOING TOMATOES
- ✓ THAT THE TOMATOES REDRESSED NOT TIGHTENED
- ✓ BUSINESS CLEAR THAT THE BUSINESS IS DARKNESS
- ✓ WHY DO NOT GROW SEED TOMATOES
- ✓ THICK-WOODED - TO THE BANK!
Growing tomatoes - Frequently answered questions
Tomatoes like everything, and many grow in the suburban area. But, as it turned out, not everyone can get the harvest, which they counted on when buying seeds. Unfortunately, at times there are unscrupulous firms that produce seeds or pack them on sachets.
And still, the cause of the crop failure is more often the mistakes in the cultivation of tomatoes, many of which are related to the ignorance of the needs of these vegetables that came to us from distant America.
TOMATOES OR TOMATOES?
Some call these vegetables tomatoes, while others call tomatoes. How right?
Many people think that "tomato" is the common name for this plant, and scientists call it "tomato". Let us turn to the historical background. According to scientists, the homeland of this vegetable is Peru and neighboring countries of South America. The Peruvian Indians called its fruits "tomato", "languor", which translates as "large berry." That's where the first name came from.
From America, tomatoes were brought to Spain and Portugal, France and other European countries. There they received a different name. Translated from Italian, tomato is “pomod ore”, that is, “golden apple”, and the French call this vegetable “pomod cupid” - “apple of love”.
The second name was obviously liked more by our compatriots, they adapted it to their native speech and turned out "tomatoes". So there was a second name.
Indeed, scholars often use the word "tomato", and summer residents prefer the tomato version, and both names have the right to life. In the popular literature, a compromise was made - to call the plant a tomato, and the fruits - tomatoes.
NITROGEN REDUCES TO THE HARNESS OF THE HOG
Why do tomatoes have tomato leaves twisted into a tube or a mutton horn?
Usually, the leaves are twisted into a ring, like a mutton horn, from the rapid growth of the stem. The leaf of such plants is dark green, juicy. If this happens only during the day, and at night the leaves unwind, then everything is in order. If the leaves remain twisted at night, then the plant is overfed with nitrogen, apparently, before planting, a lot of humus, compost or overgrown manure was brought in.
To save plants, we urgently need to water them, raise the temperature, do not open the doors and transoms in the greenhouse for several days. There are cases when in a greenhouse from overheating of plants in conditions of low humidity or weak development of roots, a large amount of phosphorus introduced into the soil, the leaves coagulate into a tubule along the central vein. In this case, it is necessary to lower the temperature, and increase the humidity by watering the soil abundantly.
Sometimes such a story also happens with leaves. All of them suddenly change their horizontal arrangement to a vertical one, rushing up. So tomatoes say that the soil is too dry, and the greenhouse is very hot, and it is poorly ventilated. In such plants, yield is usually reduced. Rescue measures - urgent watering of the soil and intensive ventilation of the greenhouse, open on both sides.
See also: Growing tomatoes - planting and leaving from A to Z
HOW TO ACCELERATE MATURITY
I have flowers in the greenhouse, on the first brush tomatoes are large, blush, and on the second and third brushes are poured slowly. How to accelerate their maturation?
To improve flowering and increase the yield, it is necessary to remove tomatoes from the first brush as soon as possible, without waiting for reddening (brown tomatoes on the sunny window sill will mature within two days). After this, pour abundantly the soil, pouring on a meter of 10-12 beds. Stephens and leaves should not be cut off for a week and be sure to lower the temperature in the greenhouse to the level of 16-18 degrees by airing. Tomatoes are not afraid of drafts, you can open both opposite doors.
I DO NOT LIKE TOMATOES
I have a summer house in the Moscow Region, and although the summer was hot, for some reason the tomato crop was worse than usual in the greenhouse ...
From the high (above 30 degrees) temperatures, which in the heat is usually observed in the greenhouse, the stigmas of the flowers become dry, they do not catch the pollen, so the flowers crumble without giving fruit. Only when the weather is moderately warm, tomatoes will better tie fruit. In hot days it is necessary to ventilate a greenhouse more often, arranging drafts, watering paths. Removing the film on one side also lowers the temperature well. Rescue the harvest and additional pollination of plants. To do this in the morning, for example, at 11 hours, just shake the bushes.
HOW TO SAVE CLEANESS OF VARIETY OF TOMATOES
I use my tomato seeds, grow several varieties at the same time. And can they be dusted?
The flowers of tomatoes are bisexual, that is, in each there are both female and male organs, so they pollinate themselves, without the participation of insects. In the greenhouse, if the plants are planted without thickening, that is, 3 bush per meter of the garden, there is usually no mixing of varieties. It is only necessary to make sure that the flower brush of one kind is not under the brush of another variety, which can cause a cross-pollination. In order for this to happen, it is necessary to pull the brush and tie it to the stem. But in an open pound, especially in hot weather, with wind, the purity of the variety is more difficult to keep.
SIZE MATTERS
Tell me, what size do you need pots for growing strong seedlings of tomatoes?
As you know, originally tomatoes for seedlings can be sown in boxes, although I think that it is better to separate cups. Their height should be 8-10 cm. For the early harvest, the volume of pots in which seedlings with a pair of real leaves are planted is of great importance. Usually this happens in 2 weeks after emergence.
The diameter of the pot should be 7-10 cm and preferably 12 see. Seedlings grown in a large volume of soil receive more favorable conditions for food, lighting, yielding a high yield. In small cups the roots grow small, the seedlings have a weak, elongated appearance. Such plants do not have to wait for a large crop.
OLD NEWSPAPERS SAVE THE RASSADA
How to transport seedlings in a garden area?
Often in the train I observed the following picture: seedlings sticking out in a bag or box, passengers passing through the car break off leaves, and on the way to the site the wind shakes it, withering it. As a result, summer residents bring some whips to the site. Such seedlings take root poorly, it may die, and if it survives, it is unlikely to please a good harvest.
To deliver seedlings to the site is easier for those who have their own car. Then it is taken in the same containers in which it grew. But also to such summer residents, in order to avoid breakage of plants, it is necessary to tie them with twine in two levels. Harder for those who do not have a car. At one time, it is possible to transport not so many plants. But for them there is a solution, I will tell on my example.
I have successfully used this method for many years. In advance I will get high boxes. The lower 2-3 leaf on the seedlings is cut. Then I spread the newspaper on the table, put the plant on it with the pot, wrap it in the tube, carefully spreading the leaves. I wrap the newspaper under the bottom of the pot. Tightly install these cylinders with seedlings in a box. The upper part of the tube is open. Such seedlings are easily transported on any transport, it does not break down, it does not dry out, leaves and buds on it are not damaged. After planting, plants are well established, quickly grow and bear fruit.
If, after frosts, the upper part of the plants has frozen, and not the roots, do not get discouraged, you can also get a good harvest from such seedlings. Soon, new stepsons and leaves will grow in the frozen plants.
IF FROZEN
Is it possible to protect seedlings from frosts, if it has already been planted?
Tomatoes are a thermophilic culture, therefore it does not withstand spring frosts and often dies. How to save a future crop in such a situation? First of all, you need to listen to weather reports. You will preserve the plants, if in the case of frost take care of additional shelter. Make it easy.
When waiting for frosts late at night, remove the film from the beds and pour tomatoes warm (35 degrees) with water from a watering can with a strainer sprinkling method. When watering, the temperature of the plants will rise from warm water, and they will freeze without cooling. Wet soil is better than dry, it keeps heat (especially on peatlands). On the contrary, in dry air, the water from the leaves evaporates more intensively, and the plants are more severely damaged by frost. Therefore, the stronger the cooling, the more it is necessary to spray and water the plants.
After watering again, cover the beds with a film. I recommend the film "Harvest", it maintains a higher temperature at night, and the plants do not chill. Take care that there are no cracks through which cold air can penetrate. For greater reliability on the film you can throw a nonwoven material or just old sheets, newspapers.
If tomatoes grow without a film shelter, they can be insulated with cardboard boxes, plastic buckets (but not metal ones!). The soil will not hurt to be covered with newspapers. Some summer residents put on plastic bottles without bottoms. I think that in this case it is necessary to put the newspaper inside in two layers or on top of the bottle to put on a plastic bag.
Plants, planted in a greenhouse, also require protection. I set the arcs and stretch the film on them or additionally cover the seedlings with nonwoven material. Someone puts buckets of hot water, includes reflectors and heaters. Low plants can be ground with soil, but soil must be moist. The next morning the land is raked up, only if frosts are expected again, warming can be left for several days.
See also: Ampelnye tomatoes (photo) - cultivation and varieties
HOW TO WORK BUTTON FOR TOMATOES
I know that you can stimulate the pollination of flowers in the greenhouse, tell us how to do it?
Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants. Only with a lack of light, low temperature, humidity, pollination is difficult. Then the flowers fall and the tomatoes are not tied. To make pollen easier to sleep from anthers. it is necessary to dry the air in the greenhouse.
To stimulate the pollination of flowers in the morning (9-12 hours), plants are shaken or taped on a wire (trellis) by a stick. In sunny weather, it is enough once a day, and at a low temperature it is necessary to repeat it twice. Do not shake the plants sharply and for a long time, otherwise all pollen will go away, and this will worsen pollination. After all, moisten the air, watering the path. When the ovaries appear on the 4-th brush, shaking can be stopped.
FIVE METHODS OF FILLING ACCELERATION
Advise how to accelerate the maturation of tomatoes in late summer, so that they have time to harvest before the frost?
It is possible to accelerate the maturation of tomatoes, but it is necessary to begin with regular planting of plants so that they do not expend nutrients on the growth of unnecessary lateral shoots. And only in the second half of the summer it is necessary to help the fruits to ripen quickly. There are several ways.
1. Not later than 5 August, the tops of the shoot are plucked (above the third and fourth fruiting brushes), leaving a couple of leaves on top. Then they cut off all the flowers.
2. Lower dry and yellow leaves are removed, and put a slingshot under the brush or tie, turning the fruit to the sun.
3. To direct nutrients and water only for the maturation of already growing tomatoes, the roots are slightly undermined. For this, both hands grasp the lower part of the stem and carefully pull the plant upwards
4. Some summer residents at an altitude of 12 cm from the ground make a through cut on the stem (longitudinal), its walls slightly widen, and moisture to the roots less arrives, accelerating maturation.
5. In the greenhouse, leaves are gradually removed. First it is done under the first brush, and as the tomatoes ripen, the leaves are ripped off and under the second (but no more). At a time, you can remove no more than 3 leaves, otherwise it can lead to the cracking of tomatoes. I consider this method very important.
NUTRITIONAL SHOWER IS THE AMBULANCE OF TOMATOES
What is foliar top dressing, why is it needed and how to carry it out?
Foliar top dressing reduces to spraying the whole plant. This is an addition, not a substitute for the usual application of fertilizers, which is primarily designed to feed the roots. Plants are sprayed with nutrient solution, if necessary, so that they quickly get a substance, because of a lack of which problems arose.
Fertilizer, in a weaker dosage than with root top dressing, first dilute in hot water, then filter the solution and add water to the desired concentration. Process tomato plants entirely, do this in the evening, using a hand sprayer.
If the plants are weak with light leaves and a thin stalk, spray with urea (1 / 2 teaspoon to 5 L of water). When the fruit is shed or poor flowering, boric acid is used (1 / 2 teaspoon per 5 L of water). Spraying can also be carried out against diseases.
CORRECTIVE TOMATOING TOMATOES
There was a phytophthora, and it was necessary to collect tomatoes immature, then they blushed, but the taste was mediocre. Maybe we did not bring them to ripeness so much, tell us how to store tomatoes and store them?
Previously, tomatoes cut from bushes are sent for ripening (experts call it dosazarivaniem) in a room with good ventilation, dry air and room temperature. Under such conditions, the green fruits will fully ripen through 6 days. Preliminarily, they are put in boxes, upward stems in the 2-3 layer. If it is necessary to accelerate the maturation, several red tomatoes are added to each box (the evolving ethylene accelerates the process). And in a bright place fruits acquire a more intense coloration than in the dark.
In damp and cold rooms, ripening is slow, and at 36 degrees - fast, but the tomatoes have a sour taste and uneven coloring. In very warm places with too dry air, the tomatoes wrinkle, the flesh becomes flabby.
Ripe tomatoes should be stored in small containers in a single layer. The best temperature for storing pink tomatoes 1-2 degrees, brown 4-6. milk and green 10-12 degrees.
LITERACTIVE DISAPPEARANCE OF INFECTION
I have never disinfected the greenhouse. How to do it competently and at what time?
If the greenhouse has not been decontaminated for several years, then the causative agents of diseases have accumulated in the soil and on the structures, which will necessarily make themselves felt by the decrease in the yield. Therefore, the soil should be disinfected at least once in 4 year.
According to the rules, it is supposed to replace the entire soil, but it is unlikely that anyone can do it. It is easier to disinfect the greenhouse. There are several ways: the use of smoke bombs, pesticides, etc. I use a simpler but more effective method, strictly following the order of work, which I will now tell you about.
1. In autumn, after harvesting tomatoes, I soil the soil with lime (50-100 g / m2) and lightly seal it in the soil.
2. I untie the plants from the trellis and cut off the upper part, leaving 15-20 cm from the surface of the earth.
3. In advance I pour in a bucket (10 l) a dry powder of bleach (400 g), stir and I insist 2-4 hours.
4. I merge the top layer of the solution, dilute it in 5 times and spray the plants, soil, glass (or film) of the frame.
5. Precipitate grease the slits of the greenhouse (with a simple brush from the loofah).
6. On a fire or in an iron barrel, I burn plant remains from the greenhouse. In this case, they can not be left on the soil near the greenhouse, even for a short time, since the spores of the fungus of the brown spot, which are often infected with tomato plants, are carried by the wind and settle around.
7. After disinfecting the greenhouse, I remove the twine from the garter, wash it (better boil it), dry it and put it in a plastic bag with a note, from which culture they were taken. If you also have two greenhouses, change these vegetables in them.
8. I dig the soil, but I do not disassemble the stakes, but leave them to be frozen.
9. In the spring of my glass with washing powder outside and inside, so that there is a lot of light.
THAT THE TOMATOES REDRESSED NOT TIGHTENED
At my place, the seedlings of tomatoes are strongly stretched. What do you advise?
This happens to many inexperienced summer residents. Such elongated seedlings sometimes do not lay the first flower brush, and the harvest will be later than a week or two with the loss of the largest fruits.
There can be several reasons for drawing plants. Either seeds were sown too early for seedlings, or when it was grown there was not enough light, or the room was too hot. There is another reason - too frequent watering, especially if it occurs in the evening and at night.
It is important after the seedlings appear for a week to lower the temperature, so that it was 18 degrees in the afternoon and 14 at night. In order for seedlings not to stretch, it is necessary to arrange it more freely, the leaves should not touch. Water should be moderate, only to prevent the plants from wilting. And do it in the morning, as tomatoes grow at night. It is advisable once in 10 days to feed with infusion of superphosphate (1 teaspoon to 2 l of water, insist 24 hours, drain from the sediment and water).
If the seedlings are still stretched so that the plants fall on each other and intertwine, you can cut off the top with 3-4 leaves and put them in a jar of water (the leaves should not be in water). After 10 days, roots will appear on the stems, and you will get a new stocky seedling that you will plant in the ground or in glasses with the ground (she will have a crop a week later). And on the lower residue let the upper stepson grow - it will be an escape, such plants can also be planted.
BUSINESS CLEAR THAT THE BUSINESS IS DARKNESS
I decided to buy tomato seedlings on the market. And how do you know if it's good or not?
Of course, it's easier to buy ready-made seedlings than to invest in her growing a house. But what is the probability that it is qualitative? Firstly, there is no guarantee that you bought the grade that the seller named. Yes, and they grow for sale the most simple varieties that yield a low yield. Secondly, you do not know in what conditions seedlings were grown, whether the seeds and soil were treated against diseases. Whether it was fed correctly, whether it was hardened. Therefore, it is better not to buy seedlings on the market, but if you buy them, then in specialized farms.
Of course, there are signs by which you can immediately determine that the plants are weak. If the leaves are hanging with a whip, the stem is thin, the color is light green - this means that the seedlings are of poor quality, not seasoned and need to be fed. But powerful dark green plants should not please either. Surely they were given too much nitrogen to grow faster at the expense of laying flower buds.
Still bear in mind that the seedlings purchased in the market must be tempered, fed with phosphorus and potassium, and preventive treatment should be carried out against phytophthora and viral infections. Now solve and buy seedlings or grow them yourself.
Reference by topic: Tomatoes indeterminate and determinant - differences
WHY DO NOT GROW SEED TOMATOES
Why did the seeds not germinate, even though the germination was good when tested?
There may be several reasons. If the box in which the seeds germinated stood on a cold window sill, and the soil was watered abundantly, then they rotted from the increased moisture and cold. Or, on the contrary, the box was placed on the battery, the pound dried up, which led to the death of the seed that had been seeded. By the way, at a low temperature, the seeds can germinate longer than usual. Perhaps this happened to you, and because of your impatience you did not wait for the shoots and threw the crop.
It happens that the seeds do not germinate, because they die from infection, if the soil is not steamed. Either it was too dense, through it poorly water seeped, and from a lack of moisture sprouts withered. Perhaps the sowing was too deep, and the seeds could not get through the soil. Increased acidity of it, too, could cause the death of seeds.
My advice is simple: adhere to the following simple, but compulsory rules that should be followed when sowing seeds on the window, and you will always have a wonderful seedlings of tomatoes.
1. Soil is needed for easy: equal parts of humus (manure or compost), peat (lowland, black) and garden land, for clay mix rotted sawdust (brown). Then add 1 / 2 cups of ash (or 1 spoonful of dolomite flour) to the pound bucket and 1 st. spoon of a complex fertilizer (for example, a solution).
2. Sow to a depth of 0,5-1 cm, seal the moist soil mixture with a layer of 1,5-2 cm and cover the box with a film.
3. Watered as the soil dries up with water at room temperature, which is set aside for 1,5-2 hours.
4. Temperature for germination of seeds 22-25 degrees, humidity 80-90% (it is impossible to plant crops on the battery and next to the cold window glass).
THICK-WOODED - TO THE BANK!
What fruits are chosen for canning?
Many varieties are well preserved, but they must have certain qualities: small (60-100 g), with dense flesh and skin, so that they do not crack when cooked, with a high sugar content. It is better to preserve not red (especially overripe), but brown and pink, they are much tastier, denser, retain an attractive appearance after canning.
It is even more important to put tomatoes of the same maturity in the jar. Not necessarily they should be of one grade, but preferably of the same size. The tomatoes are elongated, pear-shaped, plum-shaped, and of different colors.
Good canning times are miniature tomatoes, called cherry (grape, cherry, etc.). They take up little space, they can be densely packed in cans, besides they do not burst when heated.
These tomatoes are very fond of children, because they are sweeter and more delicious than usual.
In the greenhouse I grow large-bodied varieties Cosmonaut Volkov, White pouring, Mikado, Pink giant. And all of them have a yellow or greenish-yellow stain around the stalk every year. The flesh does not ripen here, dense and not tasty, part of the fruit goes into waste. Is it a feature of the grade or can you handle the problem?
L. Ostrouhoe Nizhny Novgorod Region
There can be several reasons. Analyze the situation: if you planted a sufficient amount of fertilizers (in particular, potassium, calcium and magnesium), it is possible that plants can not get them because of a moisture deficit.
Many owners of greenhouses keep their tomatoes on a "dry ration", fearing an outbreak of diseases. Because of a deficiency of potassium or magnesium, the fruits form the unripened areas near the stalk. Treatment in this case is simple: pour plants and feed them with calimagnesia. By the way, the white core of the fetus, consisting of hard vascular bundles, can also increase with a lack of potassium during the ripening of the fetus.
Sometimes the hard, unpainted patches of the stem appear because of the excessively high temperature of the air during the ripening of the fruit. Let me remind you, it's optimal for tomatoes when the thermometer's column rises to 20-26 ° during the day and goes down to 18-20 ° at night with relative air humidity 60-70%.
The first harvest of tomatoes we lost because of vertex rot. Even the reddened fruits were sour and not tasty. But we brought in the soil dolomite flour, where did the top come from?
E. Mukhametdinova Tambov region
Calcium in the plant is distributed unevenly, and in leaves it is more than in fruits. Thus, if tomatoes are highly leafy, and there are many fruits on them, but they are still small and green, calcium deficiency is quite possible.
For prophylaxis in myself, I spray the planting with a solution of calcium nitrate (0,2%, i.e., 20 g per 10 L of water) after 3 weeks after the onset of flowering. I repeat processing 3-4 times, every 2 weeks. At the same time, I must remove excess leaves and stepsons.
Another possible reason for the appearance of apical rot is insufficient watering during intensive tying and pouring of young fruits. In this case, calcium intake from the soil to the plant is difficult. Water the tomatoes regularly and in sufficient quantities, and it is better to do this between 11 hours and 13 hours when the plant breathes most actively, evaporating moisture. And one more thing: dolomite flour or lime is introduced in the fall, their spring application is ineffective. Note also that during fruit ripening, intensive irrigation leads to the fact that the tomatoes are watery and tasteless, so at this stage you need to water less often.
Is it necessary to normalize the number of flowers in the inflorescences of tomatoes?
L. Kaverina Ryazanskaya oblast
I believe that on large-fruited indices it is necessary. If your goal is to get a giant fruit, say, for an exhibition, a plant (large-fruited variety) is formed into one stem, the first flower brush is removed, giving the plant time to grow stronger, and in the second only one fruit is left. I prefer to receive the largest possible number of large fruits, therefore, when the ovaries reach the size of a pea, I leave 3-3 fruits on the lower 4 hands, and 5-6 on the upper. However, the upper brushes (6th and 7th) are sometimes non-standard: the temperature, food, and lighting affect the uniformity of filling. By the way, if for some reason 1–2 fetuses formed on the lower hand, then uniform loading of fruits in the above located hands can not be expected.
I correct the crop load only in the open ground, leaving on the plant to the beginning of the filling of fruits of 7-9 well-developed brushes. And of course, I delete all the double flowers, they will still form ugly fruits.
Tomatoes live! What to do?
I. Andreeva Moscow region
Fatigue is sometimes mistakenly called normal vegetative growth in the initial stage of development. Carefully inspect the plants. Do the bushes blossom? What are the intervals between the leaves and what is the thickness of the stem at the base and apex? When fattening leaves are dark green, juicy, hard, the stems are very thick, curved, many stepsons, young leaves are strongly twisted, brittle, and the lower ones are twisted with a "boat". Blossom such monsters are bad, they drop buds, fruits are tied weakly and long ripen.
The reason for fatliquoring is an overdose of nitrogen and / or overflow. Therefore, first of all, they reduce watering, completely exclude nitrogen fertilizers (including herbal infusions). Bushes are fed with phosphorus and potassium, 30 g per 10 liters. You can use potassium monophosphate or borofoska according to the instructions, ash - 1 glass per bush. This temporarily increases the concentration of minerals in the root zone, forcing it to reduce the intensity of work, which is reflected in vegetative growth. Part of the leaves is torn off so as not to obscure each other, including the most deformed from the top are removed. On a leaf, spray the tomatoes with an extract from superphosphate (concentration - 1 tbsp.spoon per 1 bucket, not more so as not to burn the foliage). Superphosphate is poorly soluble in water, so pour it with boiling water, stirring, drain. Pour insoluble precipitate again, and gradually almost everything will disperse. If there is no superphosphate, you can use potassium monophosphate (1 tablespoon per 1 bucket).
Tomatoes in the greenhouse bloom actively and for a long time, but they do not tie well ...
O. Lakshina
Kemerovo region Perhaps the reason is poor pollination. Try in the morning when the dew dries out, slightly shake the flower brushes. Improves fruit setting by spraying with a solution of boron and manganese (1 g of boric acid and 1 crystalline potassium permanganate per 1 liter of water). I spray the bushes 1-2 times with a weak solution of boric acid during the flowering of the second and third brushes. This allows you to get rid of falling flowers and ovaries. Well, if the weather is cold, then fruit setting can be improved with the help of a fruit stimulator.
There is also a possibility that the cause of poor pollination was too high (above 30 °) temperature during flowering plants. Thus the pollen becomes sterile, and the flowers crumble.
© Author: T. SHAPOVALOVA, vegetable grower-lover
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I used to think that if tomato bushes turn yellow and die, and dark spots appear on the fruits, it is late blight. But it turned out that these are signs of a lack of boron. Today in stores for gardeners sold boric acid, which is an excellent microfertilizer for plants.
However, it is not necessary to feed boron in the same volume all the crops in a row. For example, peas, beans, salads and potatoes have a low demand for this trace element. But apples, pears, beets, rutabaga, cauliflower, carrots, tomatoes are very fond of when they are fed with boric acid.
Top dressing can begin already during preseeding preparation, soaking seeds in a solution of boric acid for 12 h. You need to take 1 l of warm water and stir in it 0,2 g boric acid.
2-I top dressing is carried out in the period of appearance of flower ovaries on a plant. A solution of boric acid should be sprinkled with ovaries and leaves. 3-th top dressing is best done during fruiting. This will provide the plant with the necessary amount of boron and protect the fruits from the phytophthora.
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I used to plant tomatoes only in a greenhouse. But in social networks there are so many photos with beautiful pots in which tiny tomatoes grow - right on the windowsill!
So I was tempted by such an experiment. I searched for information for a long time, collected it in various sources, and this is what I found out. For cultivation on the windowsill, only miniature varieties are suitable. These include plants that reach an adult of no more than 30-40 cm. On the seed packaging it must be written that they do not need formation, garter and artificial pollination. It is also important that they are undemanding to lighting, since on the windowsill it is rather scarce. I used a phytolamp to make up for this shortcoming.
And I must say, the bushes under it looked much livelier than the rest. In the first year I planted two varieties: dwarf Bonsai Micro F1 and the ampoule 'Rowan beads'. Both pleased, liked. She looked after ordinary tomatoes in a greenhouse. She didn’t invent anything new. I also liked the varieties' Little Red Riding Hood 'and Baby'. But honestly, all this is more of an entertainment for me. As the husband says - pampering. After all, a large crop cannot be obtained from the windowsill. But still, such landings warm my soul. I really love gardening!