Soil (soil) in the greenhouse from A to Z
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How and what to do in the greenhouse to always get a good harvest in the greenhouse
About what you need to know to get a good harvest in greenhouses and hotbeds, says Sergei Batov, Ph.D. sciences.
In the zone of risky farming, the temperature for six months does not allow plants to vegetate in the open ground. Most garden plants need a longer vegetative season, or more precisely, an earlier one. It is noted that the spring sun favorably affects many physiological processes. Not for nothing that we begin to prepare seedlings almost from February.
The easiest way to ensure early vegetation is to set up a greenhouse or greenhouse. The model range of the so-called summer (that is, unheated) greenhouses is quite large, and their prices are low. With proper arrangement, they can sow seeds of green crops and plant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplant already at the end of March (cucumbers, of course, are planted later).
In that plant? What land?
In agronomy, the soil is called the upper fertile layer, and all mixtures are called substrates. In large greenhouse farms, peat is used as a substrate - it has its nutritional value, but, as a rule, after six months it sharply decreases. Peat is acidic and must be deoxidized. In a small private economy, it is not advisable to use a peat substrate - you have to add chalk, dolomite, lime or ash. This leads to a decrease in the content of soil nitrogen (the nutrient content of the substrate decreases), to excessive emission of carbon dioxide, and to the destruction of humic acids. In addition, in the fall, the spent peat will have to be removed from the greenhouse, and in the spring to lay a new one.
Traditionally, land for greenhouses and greenhouses was prepared on the basis of the mother soil, that is, they made soil substratum, on which the plants developed magnificently.
The essence of soil-substrate culture is reduced to creating conditions for the growth of tissues and organs due to the increase in the number of cells. As a result, the nutritional and biological value of the fruit is increased.
Maternal soil (that is, the soil of surrounding meadows, forest glades, fields, deciduous forests, etc.) in itself has a certain fertility. The addition of organic fertilizers, such as compost, overgrown manure, weathered peat, chernozem, increases its fertility. The addition of coarse sand increases the drainage of substrates and increases the oxygen content in them, and the addition of clay, on the contrary, increases the moisture capacity. Lime and dolomite deoxidize the substrate, while spruce earth and peat increase acidity. Furnace ash and fine fractioned weight of spring coal reduce the destruction of the substrate by putrefactive fungi.
Nutrients from soil substrates are natural, not synthesized chemically. During the growth of plants and the ripening of fruits, they manage to digest themselves, to join the tissue. This increases the ecological and nutritional value of the fruit. In numerous small cells, the dense cytoplasm is saturated with carbohydrates and proteins. Fabrics rich in fiber are more resistant to putrefactive diseases. The fruit is characterized by a high content of biologically active and mineral substances, vitamins, phytoncides.
See also: Sowing in the greenhouse
Preparation of soil substrate
The main part of the substrate (up to 70%) is the parent soil, taken directly from under the turf in the fields or forest fringes. High fertility have soils taken from the root circles of birches, lindens, maples. The soil of oak groves is not suitable, as it is rich in tanning substances; Soils from under the fir and pine are also not suitable because of their high acidity.
The fertility of the substrate is increased due to compost or rotted manure. Preferred grass compost from the cut obtained by mowing the lawns. It has the best combination of organic and mineral substances for a specific area. Compost from fallen leaves is saturated with slag and calcium salts and requires acidification with peat. Compost from forbs or hay is not uniform and is rich in weed seeds that are not composted. Overripe horse manure is rich in fiber, which contributes to the structuring of the substrate. When composting cow manure, it is advisable to add chopped straw or sawdust to it. Horse weathered black peat, in fact, is also compost, but it quickly loses its nutritional value - it is usually added to structure the substrate. These organic fertilizers in the substrate add 20-30%.
Ratio of macroelements
Three trace elements - nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K). Nitrogen is needed for the growth of green parts of the plant and roots; phosphorus - for flowering and fruiting; potassium increases disease resistance. Normally, N, p, K in the substrate should be in equal proportions. To increase the nitrogen content, increase the dose of organic fertilizers; the rate of phosphorus is increased by the introduction of phosphates, superphosphates, bone meal; natural source of potassium is furnace ash.
Usually in soil-substrate compost macronutrients are in optimal combination and quantity and are consumed by plants as needed. Therefore, it is not necessary to specially fertilize greenhouse vegetable crops with container contents (when seedlings are planted in a container in a fresh substrate). In summer greenhouses when growing vegetables in the soil, its fertility is increased in the spring before planting seedlings or sowing seeds.
Mechanical part of the substrate
For the roots, oxygen is important, it means that the water in the substrate should not stagnate, but the substrate must not dry up quickly. The organic part of the substrate usually has a high moisture content. If the humidified substrate is compressed in a fist and it clings into a tight lump, then it is necessary to alleviate it. To this end, add large non-calcined sand, fine-grained charcoal, perlite, vermiculite. Optimally, when a wet, wet, slit of a substrate clenched in a fist dissipates after a light punch.
Substrate acidity for greenhouses
The vast majority of crops grow on soils with neutral acidity (pH = 7). When using peat substrates, the roots withstand weak acidity (up to 6,5). Higher acidity inhibits root motility. During the growth process, plants emit slags into the substrate, mainly in the form of calcium salts. In addition, calcium and magnesium enter the substrate when watering plants with hard water. That is, over time, the substrate becomes alkalized.
Be ready in the spring
The substrate mixture can be prepared from the components in the spring, before use. But we must remember that in this case, nutrients will be distributed unevenly in volume. Optimally prepare the substrate for composting.
In the summer, you can accumulate a large amount of plant waste: grass, weed, weed, and fall add foliage. All these components are milled or piled in composts layer by layer, pouring loose soil, sand, manure. Very good substrate is obtained when using special cultures of soil bacteria.
When decomposing organic residues, the substrate heats up - this is useful heat. In winter, the substrate is covered with a plastic film that prevents heat loss, and even fall asleep with snow. Bacteria work all winter. Earthworms - creators of soil fertility - climb into a warm substrate - they also work all winter in the heat: mixing the substrate creates its homogeneous structure.
Often, the substrate is laid on the beds in the autumn, thinking that they will save time in the spring. But the substrate, laid with a small layer, quickly freezes, and all the processes in it stop.
Correctly lay the substrate in the beds in the spring. But before that, snow is thrown on the beds in the greenhouse or in the greenhouse, it will quickly melt, melt water will wet the beds well. The substrate is laid on the beds. If it is closed, for example, with black geotextile, it will remain warm - this is the so-called bio-heating. When applying bio-heating, the temperature in the greenhouse will be about 10 ° higher than in the environment, and at night it will not drop below + 5 ° C, which is very important for early seedlings.
Reference by topic: Preparing the greenhouse for planting seedlings
Why shop-shaped tomatoes are watery
In plants, two main phases of growth are distinguished. The first is an increase in the volume of green mass due to intensive cell division. This happens at a moderate speed; green tissues have a small cell structure and are saturated with all necessary biologically active substances. The second, the stretching phase, is a rapid increase in the volume of cells when they are filled with water. The volume of green mass increases at times, but not due to the synthesis of nutrients, but due to an increase in water cut in tissues. For commerce, it is more profitable to pump a tomato with water than to let it grow and develop as it should. When using peat substrates in plants, the processes of the phase of cell elongation are stimulated.
© Author: S. Batov is a wonderful specialist and one of the best authors in Runet on the summer cottage theme
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- Compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse
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Overabundance of manure or chicken manure leads to the accumulation of nitrates.
But bone meal does not spoil the soil! It contains a large amount of phosphorus, potassium, trace elements, but little nitrogen - not more than 4%, but in fish bone meal it is 10%. I believe that bone meal is a very valuable fertilizer. I bring it in when planting, feeding. 2 weeks before picking tomatoes, I close bone meal under the bushes, this helps to improve the taste of the fruit.
I make flour myself. In the summer we live with the family in the country, there are a lot of kitchen waste. Bones I wash, dry, then cut with an ax into parts. I let it burn to the wood, I put bones on the coals, I put firewood on top of them, I support it
Fire. The bonfire then burns, then smolder for 3-4 h. At the same time, the bones soften. I leave them on the ashes before cooling down, after which I shift to the tarpaulin, crush it with a hammer. But I want to warn: during the burning of bones, the smell is not very pleasant. If you do not want to feel it, then put the crushed bones in the scallop, put it on the fire, harden them 3 h. Then grind in the same way. You can do this with a crusher.
Bone fertilizer will feed plants for 5 months, so if you fill it up with a planting in the spring, the plants will receive useful elements throughout the garden season.
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Can I add sawdust to the soil in autumn as a fertilizer or is it more for loosening the land? Sawdust of which trees are the most useful, and which ones should not be taken?
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To introduce sawdust as a fertilizer in fresh form is not recommended, t. they will impoverish the soil more than enrich. On the one hand, sawdust will loosen the ground, but on the other hand, wood, like a sponge, can pick up some of the nutrients, making them inaccessible to plants. In this case it is a question of sawdust of deciduous species, coniferous sawdust can not be brought in at all because of the high content of resins.
For use as a fertilizer, sawdust must be re-
rot and turn into compost. When the fall application for the winter, they do not rot. In order not to waste composting strength, some sawdust of hardwoods is used as mulch - to protect against weeds or to avoid fruit contact with the ground (strawberry).
But if you fall asleep with row sawdust in the spring, then during the summer at high temperature and constant watering, they will rotate much faster, and only then they can be smelled.
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I've heard about the benefits of bone flour. And what exactly is it useful in, when? When, where and in what quantity can it be contributed?
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Bone flour is rich in calcium, phosphorus and trace elements. It is a product of animal origin, so it does not contain pesticides or any harmful substances. They bring it into the soil in the fall under a digging. In the spring
- when preparing the land before sowing or planting or even when planting as a fertilizer. The consumption rate is 100-200 g per 1 sq.m.