18 Review (s)

  1. Ludmila Starovoit, Pskov

    Is it possible and how harmful / beneficial for our health to keep juniper indoors? How to properly transplant his seedling from a container to a tub?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Junipers grow well in an apartment, but on the indispensable condition that in winter you spray them daily with water (preferably with the addition of Healthy Garden granules - 2 kru-pinks / 1 liter of water) and keep them away from heating radiators.
      Phytoncides secreted by needles kill pathogenic microbes and viruses within a radius of up to 3-5 m. The resinous smell is useful, even pleasant, and no harm.

      When transplanting into a larger container, pebbles should be poured to the bottom, then sand and half filled with humus soil (no manure!). Put a plant carefully removed (without damaging the root ball) from the pot. Fill the void around with the prepared planting mixture. After that, it is good to water the coniferous.
      When moving the juniper around the apartment, try to maintain the orientation of the crown relative to the cardinal points (just tie a ribbon to the branch). The same should be done if for the summer you "grab" it with you to the country, and then take it back to the city.

      Feed your prickly pet every three years by pushing 3-5 granules of AVA fertilizer along the entire length of your finger along the side of the pot, and annually sprinkle holiday spruce needles on top of the soil.
      Water moderately in winter, and increase the amount of water with the onset of spring. Spray daily - until the end of the heating season.

      Galina KIZIMA, author of books on gardening, St. Petersburg

      Reply
  2. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    In the country, my varietal juniper is growing. A few days ago I noticed on it strange growths on the trunks. I thought it was a kind of wood mushroom, but it felt like jelly to the touch.
    Are they dangerous for the plant?

    Juniper - types, planting and care

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      “Your juniper is rusty.” This is a fungal disease from which other conifers as well as fruit trees are at risk. Within a couple of years, the disease can be asymptomatic, then bright orange jelly-like growths - pustules begin to form. In places of tissue damage, plants thicken, swellings form. I advise you to treat the plant with a fungicide ("Topaz", "Fundazole", etc.). Treatment can be lengthy, requiring constant monitoring and periodic use of drugs for prophylactic purposes. I note that all plants on the site are subject to a single treatment with fungicide.

      What to do?
      First, remove the affected juniper branches. Burn them. Then use the selected drug (according to the instructions).
      In the early spring, every year, when the air temperature rises to +5 degrees, I advise you to process the plantings with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid (300 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water). Use the solution immediately. In autumn, after leaf fall, plants should be abundantly sprayed with urea solution (700 g / 10 l of water). Collect fallen leaves and burn or lay in a compost pit for 2 years.
      To increase the resistance of plants to diseases, they should be fed periodically, treated with "Epin" or "Zircon" (according to the instructions), remove dried and damaged shoots.
      All events with plants run with a time span. For example, pruning large skeletal branches of any conifers should be done no more than once a year. Form Niva
      ki from pine, adjusting the growth of young candles, can only be done once in the beginning of summer. Juniper, spruce, thuja can be trimmed throughout the growing season. But you need to remove a small part of the young growth. Then the plant should be given time to recover.
      Tatyana CHEREPKO

      Reply
  3. Elena AKSENOVA, Solnechnogorsk, Moscow region

    On my juniper strange, in its own spectacular orange bulges like drops of resin. Neighbors say it is a disease that is infectious, including for pears. But there are no such defects on fruit trees. What is the name of the disease? How to treat?
    How juniper rust

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      This is rust, its pathogen is a fungus with an interesting feature. For development, he needs two host plants: juniper and pear.
      On juniper, rust appears unusually: spider-like outgrowths form on the branches, and then an orange jelly-like substance, where spores infecting the pear ripen. They are transported long distances by wind through the air or fall with raindrops. Sick branches dry and die.

      It is necessary to process both pears and junipers, for example, with the preparation of Speech. Its effect begins after 2 hours, and the main effect is noticeable after 3 weeks. The drug can be used even with variable clouds with short rains. When the air temperature is below 12 ° C, it acts more slowly.
      There is a new fungicide Revus Top, more effective and faster than Scor. If you are able to buy, you will not regret it. You can try Fundazol or Bayleton, Di-tan M-45 or Cuproxat. Treat pears and junipers all season. Pears - from bud blossoming in spring to mid-September, with an interval during fruit ripening. Junipers are treated every 2 weeks, alternating between different drugs.
      Many popular garden tools (Bordeaux mixture, phytosporin-M) help a little. The same experienced gardeners say about urea.

      Reply
  4. Inna Glinskaya

    How to ensure the correct first winter of the juniper Blue Star and the Living Stone?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - All junipers, like other evergreen crops, suffer from the drying effect of sunlight when the temperature fluctuates. The best defense against him is shelter on the support. And it is important that the covering material does not touch the plant, otherwise the crown will "burn" in this place. Use a better burlap, kraft paper or you can simply install a shield on the south side of the plant. Any nonwoven material is not good for this. Horizontal junipers must be isolated from the ground by placing a foam or a board. And this should be done every year - not only in the first winter.

      Reply
  5. Natalia Danilova

    3 fact about growing juniper from seeds

    Juniper seeds, located in the pine forest, in some species ripen in the year of flowering, in others - the next year.
    Mature fruits are harvested in autumn. Seeds are mixed with wet sand and the month is kept at room temperature, after this 4 month - at + 14-15 degrees. And you can at this time a container with seeds, inserted in a plastic bag, buried in the snow. After such stratification, the shoots will appear in the year of sowing. Otherwise - through 1-3 years.
    In some species, the seeds are covered with a thick shell, which should preferably be disrupted before sowing. For this, sandpaper is glued on two plates. Then seeds are poured onto one, and the second is gently tindered - scarified.
    For seeding a mixture of sand, humus and peat (1: 1: 1) will work. Even better - turf and sand (1: 1) with a layer (in 3 cm) of fresh coniferous sawdust from above. In it, and sow the seeds, sprinkled also with sawdust (1 -2 cm) and cover with paper. In the open ground, when sowing in furrows, you can add soil, taken near the roots of the juniper growing in the garden. This will make the soil more comfortable for the development of seedlings of these plants. It is more convenient to sow in boxes up to 12 cm with drainage holes. At the bottom lay pebbles or broken bricks, then - a layer of soil mixture.

    Reply
  6. Natalia KARASEVA, Kursk

    Juniper reproduce in winter
    Decorative junipers, thujas and cypress trees are best propagated by winter cuttings.
    For this, be sure to prepare a little moss of sphagnum from autumn and stock up with a small absorbent diaper, it is from them then we will make a cherry.
    The process is best started in February. On a not too frosty day from the fallopian trees, take small side branches, cutting them off with a "heel" of mature wood. The lower part of the cuttings is peeled off from the needles and at 12 we soak in the growth stimulant solution (1-2 drops in 100 ml of water) (Figure 1).
    In pure water soak the dry sphagnum so that it is soaked in water. We lay the diaper with the absorbent side upwards, we lay wet damp moss on it with tape. We spread the processed cuttings so that the cut lies on the moss, and the "crown" remains outside. Bend the lower edge of the diaper, closing the moss, and roll the structure roll (Fig. 2). You should get a "cup" filled with moist moss, from which the green parts of the cuttings stick out. In addition, the design is fixed with a string or elastic band (Fig. 3).
    We place the blackener in a transparent bag so that the air remains in it, and tighten it tightly. Now put it in a light, moderately warm place. It is possible on the window sill, but not under the direct rays of the sun (Figure 4).
    Approximately two months later cuttings will give roots, they can be placed first in pots, and then in the ground.

    razmnojenie-mojjevelnika

    Reply
  7. Maria Piskunova, Slonim, Grodno region.

    The crown of the juniper became hot on all sides as early as the beginning of the summer, now black streaks appeared on the needles. On the pines the same picture, the branches are bare. What could it be?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Most likely, this is a shute - a dangerous group of coniferous mushroom diseases. On pine trees, the pine needles are crumbling as early as the second year (although usually the tree is renewed once in 4 year), it lasts a little longer on junipers. As a result, the crown becomes "delicate", which greatly weakens the growth and development of plants. Especially dangerous is the disease for young seedlings.
      Control measures
      Mandatory pruning and burning of affected shoots and needles.
      In order to prevent the disease from killing the already affected conifers and not transferring to healthy specimens, in September, perform protective treatment with one of the systemic fungicides: "Rakurs", "Spirit", "Rake", "Skor", "Medea", etc. ( by instructions). These drugs are effective against a whole complex of fungal pathogens - protect conifers from shute, necroses of branches, mold and rust.

      Prevention
      In spring, repeat the chemical treatment for preventive purposes: the first time in the spring, when positive temperatures exceed + 14-15 degrees, so that the systemic poison is well absorbed in the tissue of the plant being treated; the second - in late July-August. Such spraying is also useful for tui. If necessary, after 3-4 weeks (especially if new "lesions" have appeared), sprinkle the crowns again.

      Reply
  8. Irina Kopys, Moscow Region

    Inside a large juniper bush there are a lot of red needles. On the trunks some swellings and influx, the bark on them dries up - and shallow wounds open. What is it? And what to do?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      "It's probably rust." Spores of fungi sprout on shoots, skeletal branches, needles. On the affected parts appear spindle-shaped thickenings, brown outgrowths, which after the rain swell and become covered with mucus. They develop spores, which, sprouting, form a golden orange bloom.
      Over time, the branches of the juniper, affected by rust, dry up, the needles become brown and crumble. The disease is chronic, almost incurable.
      Cut the affected branches and disinfect individual wounds and all sections with an 1% solution of copper sulfate. In spring and autumn, spray plants to prevent 1% Bordeaux mixture.

      Reply
  9. Galina

    Tell me, what peat (sour or neutral) should be added to the landing pit for the juniper of the horizontal Andorra Variegata?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Juniper Andorra Variegata prefers moderately dry soils with acidic or even alkaline reaction. I recommend preparing a substrate for planting from soddy land, peat and sand (1: 2: 1).
      What kind of peat to use

      You can take a lowland. Its acidity is within the pH of 5.5-7. which is quite acceptable. Peat peat, despite its high acidity (pH 2,5-3,5), has significant advantages: it has a fine porous structure and excellent moisture capacity. Therefore, it is better to use it as the second component of the soil mixture. And if necessary, the acidity can be increased: at 1 l of the original peat add 6-7 g (1 tsp with a slide) of dolomite flour. Mix well. The acidity index will become 6-6.5. which is quite acceptable And to increase the nutrient supply of peat add a handful of mineral fertilizers.

      Reply
  10. Vladimir STAROSTIN, a dendrologist

    Northern cypress, juniper, heather ... All this is juniper, which decorates many garden plots. I have both tall and creeping shapes. Representatives of the first species grow in a sunny place, low bushes feel good in a shaded area. In order for the juniper to take root well, you need to buy two-year-old seedlings, as my husband and I did.

    A broken brick was put in the landing pit, a mixture of turf ground, sand and peat in the ratio 1: 1: 2, added coniferous needles. Substitutions of pine needles and pine bark were hushed up. The seedlings were placed at a distance of 3-4 m, as this species grows very large. We planted the northern cypress trees at the end of April. Watered regularly, now that they have grown up, do it less often.
    Juniper trees are winter-hardy, but in order to avoid branches of tall forms from snow, in the middle of October we tie them up with twine to the trunk. Prestulny circle mulch peat layer 10 see After the gloomy winter days, the February and March sun can damage the needles, so in the middle of January we cover the juniper with sacking or a thin cloth. Periodically we trample down the snow around the trunks so that by the spring there was enough moisture, rodents did not settle.

    Reply
  11. Iosif Valentinovich YALOVENKO

    Often, passing by neighboring areas, I note how many grow Cossack juniper. Sometimes it occupies such vast territories that it displaces the vegetable patches and even the paths along which people struggle to squeeze into the house.

    I at one time, through trial and error, developed a technology for pruning this plant. I will say right away that it must be carried out very carefully. The main purpose of pruning is to clean the bush from dry, broken and damaged branches. But the forming pruning can be done twice a year - in spring and autumn. In this case, no more than a fifth of the shoot should be cut, I also note that after trimming the branches of the wound, it is not necessary to cover.
    However, the safest is the twisting of the ends of new shoots. This way you can achieve intensive branching, which adds to the pomp of the bush. And at the same time it will not grow much. This method of shaping the crown is much easier to tolerate by all shrubs.
    Another Cossack juniper can root branches during its rapid growth. If you pick up the branches and see the rooted ones, you can safely separate them from the mother plant and transplant them to another place. This will definitely help in a short time to reduce the size of the bush.

    Reply

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