Rooting of plants with the example of gooseberry and apple trees
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How to root the seedlings of gooseberries and apple trees
If the topic of tricks related to the rooting of plants has arisen, then it’s a sin to confine ourselves to one grape - there are still many pets in the garden waiting for our help. And there are even more discoveries in this matter! We carefully read, study, remember.
Rooting of gooseberry
I do not pretend to innovate, since something like this has probably already been done by other experienced gardeners, but I think readers will still be interested in knowing the details. Maybe someone so useful.
So, I'll start by rooting the gooseberry in the tray. I was given a small bush (or rather, an entrenched branch) on occasion last year with amazing berries: large, bright green, very sweet. And most importantly, their skin was so tiny, that almost did not feel in my mouth! The charm, but not the grade. But its name, unfortunately, is not known, but in appearance and taste, it is very similar to the Ural grapes (at least, as it is described in the literature). In general, I wanted to have such a bittersweet as soon as possible.
The easiest way, of course, is to make it horizontal layers, i.e. just press or pin a low-lying branch to the ground and then monitor the moisture of the soil in this place. And by autumn, when a root system develops at the rooting branch, just cut it off from the mother plant and transplant it to a permanent place. There is only one thing: it is good to perform this whole procedure with adult shrubs that have many branches, including those close to the soil. I was in my arms almost an infant with three small twigs growing almost vertically, and if you try to tilt them, then there is a great risk that they will simply break down.
Hence, it was necessary to go the other way: if it is impossible to run the shoot to the ground, then it is necessary to lift the earth to the branch, i.e. pour it into a container.
I used as a container plastic trough in which fruit was sold. Its height (12 cm) was sufficient to bend the strongest branch without fear of damaging it. At the end of April, I filled the tray with soil (did not add any stimulants and fertilizers), put it near the bush, neatly laid the twig so that its tip about a length of about 10 cm protruded above the ground, and the middle turned out to be a layered layer somewhere 2 cm. the branch did not jump out of the tray, I put a piece of brick on top (photo 1).
Now the main thing was to ensure that the soil in the tray was constantly wet, since the volume of the container is small, and everything there quickly dries up. Therefore, throughout the season I watered twice a week (if there was no rain). And in September she simply cut off the rooted branch from the mother's bush (photo 2) and planted it in a permanent place.
The main advantage of this method of rooting is that when the seedling is transplanted from the tray, the root system does not suffer at all: just take out the earthen “brick” and attach it to a pre-prepared hole (photo 3). You can’t think of anything better.
See also: Rooting grape cuttings in winter
Rooting apple tree shoots
I have one pretty elderly apple tree on the plot. How old she is, I don’t know for sure, since she was planted not even by the previous owner of the dacha, but even before him. Of course, I look after her, treat her from pests, diseases, cut dry branches. In general, I try, as I can, ”to extend her life. I cut out the basal shoots, which began to appear in her in recent years, so that the tree does not waste power. This year I decided to leave one shoot overgrowth and plant it with a graft.
But this is only half the battle. How then to transplant a vaccinated shoot if it does not have its own root system? So, we need to try to root it.
I did so. She took a plastic bag, cut off the bottom, got a cylinder. I put it on the left shoot, tied it not tightly from below, at the very ground, poured into loose, damp earth, so that it would surround the branch from all sides, and tie it up on top.
Yes, an important clarification: before doing this, with a sharp knife, I scratched the rooting part of the shoot in several places - such a small damage to the bark contributes to faster root development. Then she cut off the top of the shoot a few centimeters above the level of the packet and grafted it with a graft into the cleft.
All this I did in the last decade of April. During the summer, all care was only to maintain the soil moisture in the package. In the fall, I summed up the results: the first part of the experiment was quite successful: the 4 photo shows the state of the grafted shoot in early June, and by September, the grafted wiggle had already reached 90 cm (photo 5).
As far as the rooting process is concerned, the result is conditionally positive: by the middle of September, two roots along 5 cm have grown. Of course, this, I think, is not enough for a seedling to settle down. But here the principle is important: it means that it is possible to root such crops as apple trees!
In an amicable way, this escape should not be separated from the mother tree, but let it grow the root system for at least another couple of years. But I was afraid that these young roots would simply freeze in winter. Therefore, she cut off the shoot at the soil level, carefully removed the bag and planted this seedling in a prepared pit. I will hope for the best.
Reference by topic: Reproduction of plants Part 1 Part 2 и Part 3
© Author: Natalya Aleksandrovna Vlasova, Orsk, Orenburg Region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Subtlety of sowing seeds (Perm Territory)
- How to prevent carrots and cabbage from cracking and rotting potatoes
- Yield plan for a fruit garden - personal experience
- Tips for the lazy gardener and gardener
- New varieties resistant to diseases and pests - names and reviews
- How to properly water a flower garden
- Long, short daylight and neutral vegetables - the difference in cultivation
- Compatibility of vegetables in the garden bed
- Climate change for the garden and vegetable garden - how to adapt (Kurgan region)
- System of crop rotation of vegetable crops in field and country conditions
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Reproduction by layers
As you know, the apple tree is mostly propagated by grafting. I multiply it with layers, like currants or gooseberries. To do this, in the early spring, under an apple tree in a dug soft earth, I make grooves with a depth of 10 cm, I put in them young branches bent from the apple tree and fall asleep with earth. I tie the top to the peg, and press down the bend with brick or cobblestone.
To make the branch better rooted, on the bark, which will be in the ground, you can make longitudinal grooves with a nail. During the summer, you need to make sure that the land does not dry out and there are no weeds. For this I use mulching.
By the autumn roots are formed, but do not rush to dig them out. If they are small, leave it for the summer, and if it is already normal, cut the branch from the apple tree in autumn and leave it in place, and change it to the permanent place in the spring. Get a full-fledged root-bearing seedling with all the maternal characteristics.
I have such grow more than 20 years. Gornoaltaysky variety from the Chelyabinsk nursery "walks" with me throughout the village and the district. If there are no thin branches low on the trunk, I take a large branch or twig, carefully so that it does not break. Tilt down, tie it to the trunk of an apple tree. The branches are already on the ground - please, dig in any or several at once.
For breeding strawberries with large-fruited mustache, I take disposable cups. I cut off the bottom of them, dig in strawberries next to the bushes, fill them with the same soil, adding a little humus. When the mustache goes, I direct them into a glass, pin them with a hairpin. The continuation of the mustache will go - I cut it off, leaving only the first outlet from it.
I make hairpins from large clerical clips, having bent the bent ends. I put out the rosettes all fall, but it is possible in the early spring, as soon as weather permits.
The root system in the cup grows powerful, the earth's clod does not fall apart. Strawberries do not feel transplantation and get along very well.
Tamara
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It so happened that a new place will have to be replaced not by a small eight-year apple tree. Tell me, is this possible and in what time frame?
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The task is really not the easiest. After all, the transplantation of a completely adult tree, of course, differs from the transplantation of a young one. First of all, when you are trying to dig a plant, try not to damage the roots.
We'll have to work hard, because for an eight-year-old tree, a clod of earth must be at least 1,25 m in diameter and at least 0,6 m in height and do not tighten strongly with a transplant for several more years - and this procedure will be completely irrational: the apple tree, will not transfer it.
Another important point: you must prepare the tree for transplant in advance, even in the spring. Around it, dig a deep ditch so that the roots can be seen.
Using a very sharp knife, gently cut the end of the protruding roots, then fill the ditch with soil and pour well. Before planting, it will be necessary again to remove the soil from the ditch and cut the vertical roots. These, at first glance, rather blasphemous actions will make it easier to dig a tree and its subsequent survival in a new place. It is better to transplant the apple tree in the early spring or late autumn, when the temperature drops a little below 0 ° C. The landing pit must be prepared in advance. In size, it should be at 0,5 m wider than the earth com. With planting everything as usual: install the plant in a pit, fill it with earth, pour abundantly.