3 Review (s)

  1. Nadezhda, the Kirov region

    Stems of peppers easily break from the load fruits, so tall varieties tied to pegs
    As I grow, I carefully twist the stems around the twine. When the shoots begin to branch, at every knot of branching I leave the strongest as an escape route. The rest I pinch. Flowers and ovaries, which are formed before the first branch of the main stem, delete.

    To accelerate the ripening of fruits a month before the end of vegetation, the tops of skeletal shoots are pricked, so that plants spend their energy only for the ripening of fruits. Aging and yellowed lower leaves regularly cut out (at a time - no more than one or two, otherwise the fruits will crack strongly), and only on sunny days - the wounds on the stems dry out faster.

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  2. Valentina Andreevna Skibina, Volgograd

    Peppers in the beds often get sick. Last year, my year before, soft bacterial rot attacked - watery spots appeared on the fruits, which spread, all the tissues later became soft and watery, and an unpleasant odor appeared.
    Sick plants I pulled out of the bed, treated the remaining "Fitosporin". But next year I seriously approached the planting and planting.

    The soil before the sowing was treated with "Fitosporin", he then sprinkled seedlings and bushes in the garden. Planting seedlings, sprinkled several times with its solution of potassium permanganate (we must take only 2 g for 5 L of water).

    Resistance to sores increases such processing: dissolve in a bucket of water in 2 g of boric acid, copper sulphate, manganese sulphate, zinc sulphate and sprinkle peppers.

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  3. Elena KIRYASHINA, Ulyanovsk

    Fatty peppers
    Good strong seedlings of bell pepper - the key to a rich harvest. I grow this, sowing varieties Tolstyachok and Star of the East. Sowing spend in early March. I soak the seeds overnight in a growth promoter. I use the ready-made soil for planting - soil for seedlings of pepper or garden soil. This soil does not require calcination or treatment with a solution of manganese, moreover, it contains fertilizers that are enough for the first period of plant development.
    The soil is poured into plastic containers (250 ml), I make grooves, I spill them with a warm solution of the growth stimulant and sow seeds. I cover the containers with a lid or a film, periodically watered so that the top layer does not dry out. Seedlings will appear in 12-14 days, after which I remove the cover and begin to highlight the seedlings.

    As soon as 2-3 real leaflets appear in the seedlings, dive into a box of 20 × 40 cm in size - no more than 10 plants in a container. I paste labels with the name of the variety on the box. First, I pour a pinch of root-forming agent into each well. After transplanting, I illuminate the plants with fluorescent lights, and from the beginning of April I have been hardening. I take out the boxes with seedlings on the balcony, first for an hour, then increase the time, and from mid-April I leave them on the balcony all the time.

    During the growth of peppers water 2-3 times a week with warm filtered water. By the time the pepper is planted under the cover material (I do this from 10 May), the seedlings have 10 large leaves, a strong stalk and gaining color. The seedlings grown in this way are not affected after transplantation and quickly take root.

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