Home Cyclamen - Planting and Care

Cyclamen acquired the reputation of a "capricious plant". Many tried to grow it at home, but a wonderful flower quickly began to wither. Although with the right treatment, this plant can be called a real long-liver! Under suitable conditions cyclamen is able to please its owners with luxurious annual flowering for 25 years!

Flower collections

As a greenhouse plant, the French began to grow cyclamens in the XVII century - delicate small flowers of alpine violets, or European cyclamen, conquered connoisseurs of natural beauty with their grace and delightful aroma.

Soon came the turn of the Persian cyclamen. Unlike alpine violets, he could not boast of perfumery talents, but this flaw was more than compensated by external data - beautiful patterned leaves and large unusual flowers of this plant became the decoration of the most exquisite flower collections.

Cyclamens belong to the Primrose family. They got their name due to the special form of the tuber - kiklos translated from Greek means "circle". There are about 20 natural species of these plants.

In the 200th century, cyclamen fashion captured England. British gardeners approached the matter with all seriousness - they not only achieved serious success in growing cyclamens, but also actively engaged in crossing these plants, and by the end of the century were able to create more than XNUMX magnificent hybrids.

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See also:  Cyclamen from seeds

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Luxury cyclamins hybrids

Until recently, only large-flowered Persian cyclamen could be bought in our stores. Now these luxurious varieties with large flowers pushed miniature hybrids obtained by crossing Persian cyclamen with natural species. From the “Persian” parents, they inherited an incredible palette of colors - from delicate pastel to saturated, almost ink.

There are among them plants with two-colored petals, with an effective border or gentle gradient transitions of shades.

Very beautiful cyclamens with a corrugated edge of the petal. In addition to their appearance, some hybrids inherited another remarkable quality that was not characteristic of “Persian” elegant parents - a delicate aroma. Do not be too lazy to smell a miniature store cyclamen before buying - you may be lucky and you will become the owner of not only a beautiful, but also a fragrant plant that smells no worse than the legendary Alpine violet.

Lovers of rarities

Lovers of rarities should take a closer look at offers on the Internet. There you can find seeds and tubers of species cyclamen and enjoy the flowering of these plants all year round. So, cyclamen coum at home, blooms in spring, when the flowering of Persian cyclamens and hybrids with them takes place, in May on the windowsill there comes a time for flowering alpine violets - Cyclamen European (cyclamen europaeum, cyclamen purpurascens). Its tiny, 1,5-2 cm, flowers with a strong fragrance of lily of the valley will delight you all summer. Closer to the autumn, cyclamen hederifolium, cyclamen neapolitanum begins to bloom, its small white, pink or red flowers often also have a pleasant aroma.

Special conditions for growing a home cyclamen

The birthplace of cyclamens is Turkey, southern Europe, the Caucasus, Israel, Iran and the Crimea, regions where it is really hot in summer and moderately cool and humid weather from autumn to spring. Cyclamen tuned to this natural rhythm - most of them prefer to spend summer heat at rest, and grow and bloom in the cool autumn-spring period.

These features of cyclamens must be considered when growing at home. After all, how do events usually develop after buying cyclamen? An absolutely healthy-looking plant, getting from the store to the apartment, “suddenly” begins to be capricious - the blossoming flowers quickly wither and wilt.

The most important thing is to remember that cyclamen does not tolerate autumn and winter high temperatures. The best place for him is a glazed balcony, where a cool mode is maintained - from 6 to 12 degrees of heat. In such conditions, the flowering of cyclamens can last for 5-6 months without a break!

Newly made owners are trying to quickly "fix" the situation by watering - buds and leaves begin to wilt. In a matter of days, the flower completely loses its decorativeness, and it becomes clear that it will not stretch further. The problem is that on an ordinary windowsill it is too hot, and an excess of moisture only accelerates the death of the roots and rotting of the tuber exhausted by inappropriate conditions of the flower.

The secret of success

During the growth cycle, cyclamen need regular drinking without stagnant overmoistening, while watering the plant better with a pallet or immersion method. Water should not get to the top of the tuber, it can cause it to rot.

After flowering, which in popular hybrids ends with the onset of warm spring days, the plants begin a dormant period - the leaves turn yellow and gradually fade. This is an important period in the life of the plant, and the main thing here is to avoid mistakes.

Many florists, taking advantage of the advice of "knowledgeable people", are trying to keep the cyclamen tubers in completely dry ground, putting the pot with the asleep plant in the refrigerator.

In most cases, cyclamen tuber after such "rest" cannot be woken up; drying is especially dangerous for very young plants with small tubers. As soon as you notice that the plant has blossomed and began to lose foliage, just reduce the watering, not allowing the soil to completely dry out, stop feeding the plant (and no refrigerators!). After a while, cyclamen will begin to grow new leaves.

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Home cyclamen - how to care

Cyclamen prefers loose nutrient soil with a weakly acid reaction (the ready soil for violets is suitable) and good drainage. The pot should not be too big and deep.

Planting depth depends on the root growth characteristics of different types of cyclamens - for example, in Persian cyclamen the roots grow exclusively from below, the top of the tuber should be visible above the ground, in European cyclamen roots grow on the entire surface - the tuber, it can be buried in the ground. Cyclamen propagated by seeds (they germinate in cool, at a temperature not exceeding 14 degrees) or tubers, children.

Of the pests for cyclamen, the tick is most dangerous - its air is too dry.

About cyclamen tubers

Cyclamen tubers are poisonous; they contain saponin toxin. Nevertheless, some animals willingly eat them - so cyclamen got another name - "pork bread". Cyclamen is widely used in folk medicine, but you must remember that you can never deal with such treatment on your own - you can get severe poisoning.

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Cyclamen neapolitan, or ivy (Cyclamen hederifolium) - benefits and harms, use and contraindications

Cultivation

She prefers partial shade.

One of the most hardy cyclamen, stands up to -20 degrees.

The soil is loose, nutritious.

Watering - very mild, to avoid decay of tubers. Likes spraying.

Top dressing is needed during the flowering period - complex fertilizers (according to instructions).

The tubers are buried so that up to a third of the bulb remains on the surface.

Contra-indications cyclamen

Individual intolerance, pregnancy and lactation period, children's age up to 10 years.

Using the cyclamen

The most common and effective remedy from cyclamen is a drop for the nose with all kinds of tonsillitis, rhinitis, colds.

1 option.

Tuber peel, squeeze juice out of it and dilute with water (1: 4). Drip morning and afternoon on 1 -2 drops in each nasal passage for 4-7 days. Be careful: irritation of the mucous membrane, burn, allergy.

2 option.

0,5 tsp chopped cyclamen tubers, pour a quarter cup of hot boiled water, insist 1 an hour. Dilute with cold water (1h / l). Bury 2 drops 3 times a day in each nostril for 5-7 days.

With a strong emotional excitability and insomnia, neurasthenia, depressive conditions, stresses 1 tsp. chopped fresh tubers of C. Neapolitan fill in 2 st. boiled water. Insist 2 hours, strain. Take on 1 tsp. three times a day after eating. Keep infusion only in the refrigerator! Shelf life - from the date of preparation 2 day. Before use, preheat it.

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Cyclamen - reviews and advice on growing and care

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Home Cyclamen

These plants can be attributed to the true aristocrats of the floral world. They conquer a long flowering, a form of flowers, like fluttering butterflies, painted leaves.

And they blossom in the winter, when there are not enough bright colors!

ADAPTATION OF "NEWS"

Cyclists bought in the store do not immediately adapt in the new conditions. After greenhouses with high humidity, moving to an apartment for them is a great stress. It appears in yellowing of leaves and dropping buds. In such cases, I use "Epin" - I spray plants 2 times a week (at night or in the bathroom, the drug decomposes on light).

If the plant blooms, transplant slowly. I follow the humidity of the soil, I pour in small portions.

GROWING FROM SEEDS

To cyclamen were better adapted to the conditions of the apartment, I grow them from seeds. I sow in autumn and winter, as at high temperatures the seeds can "fall asleep". Before planting, soak them for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate. In the pot 7-8 cm sow 4-5 seeds to a depth of 1-1,5, see I take the soil light, add coco-soil. The crops are covered with food film and put in a cool place.

Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks. When 3-4 leaflet is formed in the seedlings, I arrange the kids in separate pots, necessarily deepening the tubercle so that the growth point does not dry out.

• IN THE AGE 7-9 months, you can open the tuber a little, stimulating the formation of the first buds.

WATERING

An important point in the care of the cyclamen. I pour from below, but in the summer I sometimes add watering to the edge of the pot, without getting on the tuber. Before watering, I always check the soil moisture of each plant. Even nearby standing cyclamens often need different amounts of water. You can also navigate the weight of the pot.

By the way, the capacity for a cyclamen can not be taken "for growth", it should be tight for a tuber, then it is less likely to overmoisten the plant (and the cyclamen blooms better in crowded areas).

In the flowering period, once in 2 weeks I feed fertilizer for flowering plants, but in less concentration. The overabundance of nutrients provokes the development of fungal infections.

Tranquility - NOT FOR EVERYONE

Cyclamens love a bright and cool place. Most of the year they spend in the north-western loggia. I definitely protect them from direct sun.

In summer, cyclamen should have a rest period. Modern hybrids do not always follow this rule. Some of my specimens not only do not shed leaves, but often blossom in the heat! Others seem to freeze, do not grow, but remain with leaves. During this period,

but observe hygiene: I carefully twist the yellowed leaves near the base so that the remains do not rot.

At the end of August, with the first cool nights cyclamen begin to actively grow leaves and "twist" the buds. Usually at this time I transplant plants into fresh soil. Drainage is mandatory, well suited for expanded clay.

POSSIBLE DIFFICULTIES

Trips, mites often appear on cyclamen, especially when kept in a loggia. The main signs of thrips damage are the leaves twisted inside, the white, oblong larvae of the insect can be found in the magnifying glass. When a tick is struck on a sheet, punctures-bites are seen, on the reverse side there is a raid in the form of gray dust. When pests are detected, I treat all the plants - I spray them with Aktofit, Fitoverm or other preparations, I spill the soil with a solution of Aktara.

For the prevention of fungal diseases, I regularly spray biochemicals "Trichovit", "Guapsin".

YOUR SEEDS

To get the seeds of cyclamens, I just click my fingers several times on the flower - the pollen wakes up with a cloud and falls on the protruding pistils of other flowers. Soon, the boxes are tied, maturing 1-2 months. As soon as the petiole near the capsule becomes soft, I cut it off and put it in a glass, where it then opens. The germination of house seeds is good and is maintained for 4-5 years.

Elena BESPALOVA, an experienced florist, Kanev, Cherkasy region. Photo of the author

EFFECT OF THE CYCLAMEN

On the atmosphere of the house

Cyclamen is useful to emotional people, with a soft, changeable character, heavily dependent on their mood and the opinions of others. Creates a relaxed atmosphere in the house, raises the mood, inspires to do pleasant to each other.

On the emotional state

Capricious children become calmer, adults - more active. Cyclamen develops creative abilities. Suitable for managers and anyone who works with people, is engaged in organizational activities. It unites people with "incompatible" characters.

Curiously

• Folk names - dregs, "pork bread" (because of eating tubers by animals in nature).
• Fishermen of the Mediterranean Sea used grated cyclamen tubers as a deafening means in catching fish.
• In ancient times, doctors used cyclamen to treat the bites of poisonous snakes.

Feeling well

Helps to adapt to the harmful effects of the environment. It is able to warm, it is necessary for those who are afraid of the cold and freeze at the thought of winter, who is allergic to cold.

Elena Mazova

THE USE OF THE CYCLAMEN

With a therapeutic purpose, juice from the cyclamen tubers is used.

Cyclamen juice

Tuber wash with a brush, peel and grate on a plastic grater. Squeeze the juice and dilute with boiled water in the ratio of 1: 4. Bury in each nostril for 1-2 drops for allergic rhinitis, purulent maxillary sinusitis. Course - 5-6 days.

Tincture

5 tbsp. chopped tubers pour 100 g 70% alcohol, insist a week in a dark place, periodically shaking, strain. Take 30-40 drops in 1 st.l. boiled water 3 times a day with neurasthenia, increased excitability, headache. I smoke - 10 days.

Possible complications: vomiting, headache, dizziness, convulsions, respiratory failure, with topical application - burn skin and mucous membranes.

Contraindications: pregnancy, early age, hypertension, ve-getososudistaya dystonia.

The plant is poisonous!

Traditional healers believe that cyclamen protects from spoilage and evil eye.

Tatiana Tsyganova. phytotherapeutist, Smolensk

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Miniature Persian cyclamen

Miniature Persian cyclamen occupy a special place in my collection. They bloom almost all year round and also have a thick, slightly tart flavor.

The first mini I grew from seeds in 2007. I got cyclamens of different colors. Since the seeds of miniatures were not easy to find, I began to pollinate flowers myself and grow new plants. To diversify the material for crossing, I bought several ready-made mini-cyclamens of beautiful colors. I tried to pollinate miniatures with pollen from standards, as a result, seedlings often turned out to be miniature and retained aroma. Crossed Persian mini and ivy ... As a result, today I have about three dozen miniature varieties and hybrids.

There are cyclamen in the southern loggia. In the summer they occupy a light shelf of the shelves, in winter I have them closer to the windows. Cyclamen is a lover of coolness. During the winter flowering a lot of buds protrude from under the leaves. Thumbnails often have several outlets on the tuber. In addition, rosettes are sometimes formed on peduncles. Flowering is incredibly abundant!

ADULT EDUCATION

Such cyclamen do not require special attention. All they need is a sunny place, watering, feeding and removing drying leaves and flower stalks.

I pour the rest of the cool (+ 12-14 degrees) water. The top of the tuber, which extends a quarter from the ground, is left dry when watering, so as not to damage the growth points. I pour water along the edge of the pot and into the pallet.

I feed minicycamens almost all year, excluding the time of transshipment and a short rest (during this period I slightly reduce watering). But if there are seed boxes, I take care in the usual regime.

YOUNG SEEDS

The period from sowing cyclamens to the appearance of shoots is long. At this time it is important not to overdry and pour the seeds. The soil can be slightly moistened and cover the container with plex. I more often sow the cyclamens in small containers with holes in the bottom and sides. Before the emergence of sprouts, the soil is gradually moistened from above.

At first cyclamen grow slowly. To not accidentally pour a tuber, I pour into the pan. Or I remove the soil between seedlings, so that they are on small elevations, then when watering from above, moisture gets only roots.

In separate pots I transplant cyclamens when they have 5 leaves. I pass in the process of growth (even in blossoming condition). After that, I put it in an open bag for a week and put it on the lower shelf of the rack. Fresh soil activates the next wave of growth. And flocks of flowers-moths flutter over the patterned-leaves.

Elena Khomich. city ​​of Balashikha, Moscow region.

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CARE OF THE CYCLAMA IN THE HOME CONDITIONS IN AUTUMN AND WINTER

If the cyclamen suddenly completely dropped the foliage, do not panic.

So the plant prepares for rest, and it usually happens in summer.

And in winter, the flower pleases with its amazing view and, of course, needs caring care. What does he need in this period?

Watering and feeding

First of all, the flower needs water. In autumn and winter, the plant is moistened more often than during the rest period. Watering should be regular, a small amount of water at room temperature. When the plant blooms, it is poured directly into the pot tray, and the excess is removed, since excess moisture is detrimental to this flower.

Council

At the top of the tuber in cyclamen is located the point of growth, from which stems depart. It should not be filled with water and dry. It is also necessary to monitor whether characteristic dark spots of rot have appeared on the tuber.

By the way, in anticipation of the rest period, when the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, watering should be reduced to a minimum. But you shouldn’t completely abandon them, because even sleeping plants need moisture, especially when it comes to young cyclamen with small tubers.

In winter, cyclamen is necessary and feeding. 1 once every few weeks gives a flower fertilizer for beautifully growing crops. If you do it more often, the foliage will begin to fatten, and flowering may stop altogether.

Transfer

The experience of cyclamen fans suggests that the older the plant, the less often it needs to replace the soil. And young cyclamens are transplanted every year. Do it after the end of flowering, before the spring and summer dormancy period. The tuber, along with a lump of old earth, is transferred into a larger pot with a loose

substrate (peat, earth, turf, sand, pre-poured pebbles or small pebbles for better ventilation). At the same time, about a third of the plant is left above the ground so that the growth point is well ventilated. Recommended soil acidity: pH = 5.

Council

Cyclamens do not like direct sunlight, but they also need good light. The best option for them is the windows of the north and east sides, but on the south and west they should not be placed.

Note

Cyclamen first appeared in Europe in the 16th century and was grown mainly in botanical gardens. Other names: "Alpine violet", "dryakva", "pork bread". Thanks to the efforts of breeders, for several centuries, indoor flower species have been developed, as well as many hybrid varieties of various colors. Some of them are distinguished by a corrugated form of petals.

Possible problems

If you properly care for a delicate flower, you can help him avoid pest attacks and the development of many diseases. But it must be admitted that sometimes even the most tremulous concern for cyclamen does not eliminate such problems.

Keep in mind that if the soil is constantly not sufficiently wetted, then a spider mite can live on the plant, it can also be attacked by aphids. This will be evidenced by damaged and deformed leaves.

Getting rid of this helps placing adhesive tape traps for insects in the vicinity of the pot, as well as processing plants with special means. If meetings with enemies could not be avoided, you need to carefully remove all insects from the visible parts of the cyclamen, rinse the leaves in the shower and treat with insecticides.

If the plant infects rot, then the flower is completely removed from the ground, and problem areas are removed to living tissue. Sections are powdered with crushed coal or wood ash, and the plant is placed in a pot with new soil.

© Author: Maria Antonovna DUDNIK

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Diseases and pests of cyclamen

The homeland of cyclamen is the Mediterranean, Northeast Africa, Iran and Turkey. Thanks to breeding work, some of its species are common in Ukraine. We grow them in greenhouses, on window sills, glazed balconies and in loggias.

Cyclamen is an elegant perennial tuberous plant. And so I want bright, similar to outlandish moths, cyclamen flowers to recall the summer, create a feeling of warmth and coziness, delight throughout all the cold months, so that the beautiful flowering does not stop. It is believed that cyclamen is rarely sick. Unfortunately, this is not the case.

Diseases and pests can destroy this beauty. And not only spoil the appearance, but also cause irreparable damage or destroy the plant. Cyclamen is a delicate plant, it needs careful care and attention. The main threat to cyclamen is represented by diseases caused by various bacteria, fungi, viruses and non-parasitic, as well as pests - ticks, aphids, thrips, scabies.

To protect plants from harmful organisms, it is worthwhile to familiarize themselves with their biology and learn how to deal with them.

Bacterial cyclamen diseases are rot that most commonly affects tubers. If you notice that the plant has dropped flowers and leaves, there is a sharp unpleasant odor, then the cause is wet rot caused by bacteria of the Erwinia genus. The affected root system becomes brown, softens, becomes friable, an unpleasant putrefactive odor appears. As a result of the development of the disease, the plant dies. The causes of the onset of the disease in most cases lie in improper maintenance and care. Frequent overflows and stagnation of water in the pot, improper light conditions lead to the development of rot.

PROTECTION OF PLANTS

Infection enters the flower through cracks or wounds on vegetative organs or tubers. The source of infection may be another diseased plant or contaminated water.

Anthracnose causes Gloeosporium. The disease does not immediately appear on cyclamen; in the initial stages of development, the plant looks quite healthy. The defeat becomes apparent during the flowering period and affects the growth of peduncles and leaves: peduncles do not develop, acquire an ugly shape, their upper part dries up. A sick plant stops in development, does not bloom. Following the peduncles, the leaves become infected. Old leaves, gradually drying out, die off, and young leaves dry out along the edges and begin to curl. The development of the disease is enhanced by warm and humid conditions. Due to a halt in the development of peduncles, flowering does not occur.

Fuzarioz causes the pathogenic fungus Fusarium, which affects tubers, the vascular system and cyclamen leaves. The fungal mycelium clogs blood vessels, releasing toxic substances. The plant begins to feel a lack of nutrition, vital functions are violated, the leaves and flowers first turn yellow, starting from the top, then slowly fade and fall. If you do not take protective measures, fusarium spreads very quickly throughout the plant, which very often leads to the death of cyclamen. The harmfulness of the fungus increases due to its accumulation in the soil.

Gray rot (Botrytis cinerea) - One of the most dangerous fungal diseases that occurs on cyclamen due to moist and cool air. Cyclamen can get sick with high humidity and as a result of sudden changes in air temperature. With a decrease in air temperature to 14 ° C and soil to 10 ° C for two days, the rapid development of fusarium is observed. In addition, the development of the disease provokes improper watering, especially when water gets into the growth point of the bud and leaves.

The main symptoms of this disease: the appearance of gray mold on stems and leaves (due to strong fluctuations in air, it can “fly up”), diseased flower stalks of the plant darken and die, infected leaves turn yellow, hang and fall off.

Cyclamen viral diseases (leaf bronze and ring mosaic) are carried by insects that have settled on plants. Therefore, in order to avoid infection, it is recommended to regularly inspect green pets and get rid of uninvited guests on time.

TRIPS

The leaf bronze virus infects the green mass of the plant to a greater extent. The leaves are deformed, tissue necrosis develops.

The circular mosaic virus first causes the appearance of round bright spots on cyclamen leaves. Over time, the spots dry out and crack. Ugly holes are formed, the plant loses decorative qualities, stops in growth.

Unfortunately, there are no effective means of combating viral diseases. When symptoms of these diseases appear, the plant must be destroyed immediately. This cardinal step will prevent the spread of the virus to other indoor plants.

Non-infectious cyclamen diseases are a group of diseases that develop due to unfavorable plant conditions or improper care. Such factors include: non-observance of temperature or light conditions, - excess or lack of nutrients, mechanical damage, violation of the water regime; increased or decreased acidity of the soil. To avoid the further development of such diseases, it is necessary to eliminate the causes of discomfort.

Of the pests, cyclamens are most often annoyed by aphids, scale insects, thrips, and cyclamen mites.

aphid - wingless small insect with a length of 1, 4-2, 5 mm, which sucks the juice from the soft tissues of cyclamen.

The main symptom of settling the pest is leaf curl. If you look closely, you can see molt skins discarded by insects. With a large accumulation of insects, cyclamen gradually deforms, stops growing and dries. Aphids spread very quickly and populate plants.

Shield - Another dangerous pest of cyclamen.

Adults are usually motionless. They look like dark tubercles on leaves and stems. Wandering larvae settle on the host plant and neighboring plants. If you do not notice them on the stems and leaves in time, after 2-3 weeks the flower may die.

Recently, almost all plants in greenhouses and greenhouses are greatly damaged by thrips. The shape of trips is similar to a spindle about 2 mm long. The pest can be seen with the naked eye, the insect is mobile and fairly bright, which makes it very noticeable on the flower. The main symptom of the appearance of thrips is the formation on the leaves and flowers of silvery paths that remain after the movement of the pest. Due to its mobility, thrips quickly affects the entire plant. Cyclamen is stained, suspended in growth and deformed. With strong pest colonization, sticky black discharge forms on the damaged leaves.

The cyclamen tick damages, besides cyclamen, azaleas, fuchsias, balsam, and Kalanchoe. Unlike the spider mite, which can be seen with the naked eye, it is microscopic [only about XNUMX microns], and it can only be viewed under a microscope. The tick affects the inner surface of the leaf. When a cyclamen tick is affected, a dusty coating first appears in the folds of young foliage, flowering buds and apical growth points. Due to the defeat of all parts of the plant, cyclamen stops growing, its leaves turn yellow and curl. Ticks multiply rapidly: after two to three weeks, a new generation appears that continues to harm plants. The development of cyclamen mite is promoted by high temperature and low humidity in the room.

To limit the number of pests and the spread of diseases on cyclamen, it is necessary to carry out a set of protective measures.

In order to timely detect manifestations of diseases and damage by pests, it is necessary to inspect plants with a magnifying glass every 2-3 days, without missing a single leaf or flower.

It is necessary to maintain optimal indoor air humidity, not to overmoisten and not to overdry the soil in pots with cyclamens. It is advisable to water the plants once a day, in the morning, so that the substrate has time to dry out a little during the day. It is important to choose the right substrate for cyclamen. The water in it should not stagnate much, you should not allow acidification of the soil, the appearance of moss on its surface. In the pot you need to make a good drainage. The room where cyclamen grows must be aired, but drafts should not be allowed.

For top dressing, it is preferable to use potassium phosphorus and micronutrient fertilizers. Fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers in a very metered way, they reduce the immunity of cyclamen.

In the hot season, during high solar activity, the plant must be shaded, since direct sunlight, falling on the leaves, causes burns, which over time can develop into tissue necrosis.

To prevent the spread of diseases and pests, it is necessary to remove flowers, leaves and buds affected by diseases and pests, since they serve as a source of infection, rot and spread of pests.

On hot days, it is necessary to increase air humidity by spraying water from a spray gun around the flower.

It is important to ensure that water does not get on the plant itself. The use of humidifiers is very effective.

For cyclamen, the correct temperature regime is important.

The optimum air temperature is 1 5 -2 0 ° C. At too high or low temperatures, the plant experiences stress, its immunity decreases, and diseases develop. With a lack of light, the flower stalks are pulled out, the flowers are smaller, and the flowering time is reduced.

To reduce the development of fusarium, sulfur and bacterial rot, it is necessary to spray the plant with biological preparations trichodermin, haupsin, planriz, phytocide-R with a consumption rate of 200 ml of one of the preparations per 10 liters of water and water pots with cyclamens with a solution of these biological products [200 ml of the drug in 5 l of water and 200 ml per liter pot). The effectiveness of biological products is significantly increased when using a mixture of a preparation of fungal origin (trichodermin) and bacterial (haupsin, planriz).

When spraying, 100 ml of trichodermine and 100 ml of one of the bacterial preparations are taken per 10 l of water; when watering - 100 ml of trichodermin and 100 ml of bacterial preparation in 5 l of water.

It is necessary to spray and water the affected plant four times a month, with an interval of one week.

To prevent the occurrence of diseases, the soil is sterilized and steamed before planting cyclamen. For prophylactic purposes and for enrichment with beneficial microflora, a solution of biological preparations Trichodermin, Haupsinum, Planriz at the rate of 100 ml per 5 liters of water of one preparation or a mixture of Trichodermin and Planbris, Haupsinum (50 +50 ml / 5 L of water) is introduced.

When using chemicals, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for their use and observe safety measures.

Insecticides are used to protect against pests: Actellik 500 EU, COP against aphids, ticks, thrips (2, 4-3, 6 l / ha); milady, TK, (2, 5 g per 1 liter of soil mixture) and green dip 2, 5 PR, FS, (1 capsule per 1 liter of soil, 1 capsule per pot 13 cm in diameter) against insects, aphids, thrips, ticks; spinor 240 SC, r.p., (0-04. 0 l / 05 l of water) against thrips; actophyte, c. against ticks (100 ml / 2 liter of water); naturgard, c. R. against aphids (0 ml per 1 l of water).

To protect against Fusarium and gray rot, it is recommended to spray plants with fungicide switch 62, 5 WG, c. g. (10 g / 4 l), as well as the biological preparation phytocide-R (20 m l / 4 l of water).

© Author: Anna TKALENKO

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Diseases of garden cyclamens - note!

NAME	CAUSE	SIGNS	HOW TO FIGHT
Gray mold	Infection with the fungus Botrytis cinerea with stagnant water in the ground (no drainage), excessive feeding	Plant tissues soften, turn brown, then a gray bloom forms and the cyclamen dies. Rot remains in the soil for about 2 years, spreads with water, air currents	At the first sign, treat with the systemic fungicide "Rovral", "Previk" or others.
Phyto-fluorine rot	Failure to comply with agricultural practices, excessive feeding and the use of compost with the remains of garden plants	Young plants wither and then rot. The disease in adults begins with drying and yellowing of the lower leaves and peduncles, then the remaining parts and tuber are affected. The pathogen persists in the soil	If you suspect rot, treat with drugs against late blight: "Ridomil Gold", "Previkur", "Profit"
Fusarium wilt	Causes the fungus Fusarium oxysporum (through the root system or with water for irrigation). More common on light and poor soils	Yellowing, wilting and drying of the lower leaves. The disease quickly spreads to the entire aerial part. At high humidity, a pinkish bloom may appear on the tuber.	The disease is practically not treated
Bacterial rot	Caused by bacteria from the genus Erwinia. Promoted by high humidity, poor drainage, watering from stagnant shallow bodies of water and heat	Plants turn brownish sharply and turn into porridge with an unpleasant odor	At the first sign, treat with the preparations "Fitolavin" or "Fitoplasmin", according to the instructions

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Home cyclamen care - video

© Author: Elena Limonchenko Author's photo

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