Reproduction of gooseberry by layers
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How to grow gooseberries by layers - tips in practice
Reproduction of bushes by layering is the easiest and most reliable way. If you do not forget about some minor, but extremely important nuances, on which the result of our work ultimately depends. And stocks for the winter too.
Without a garden, I can’t imagine my life, and the most important culture for me is gooseberry. In the literal sense of the word, a grateful plant: responds to care, has great vitality, gives good yields of berries that are wonderful in every way. And most importantly, it multiplies easily.
So I saved up money for a new seedling (prices for current varieties, which are distinguished by good disease resistance and high yields, frankly, biting), planted it, and then I can quietly replicate, and even exchange planting material with other gardeners, choosing for myself the most interesting tidbits. So much for the expansion of the summer cottage collection, and the saving of money: spent a thousand rubles - saved at least five!
See also: Rooting of plants with the example of gooseberry and apple trees
Propagation of gooseberry by prikopkoj shoots
For me, the most convenient (and most importantly, the most reliable) way of propagating gooseberries is to prikopka shoots.
I tried to do it in late autumn and early spring. In the first case, at the time of their separation from the uterine plant, more powerful roots are obtained from the outgrowths, which then directly affects the earliest entry of the young gooseberries at the time, so to speak, of commodity fruiting.
But there is also a danger that in an unstable winter, the layers can die. I have had it several times, although I have insulated the sprouts with compost and sawdust. If you think about it, it's not surprising: first during a thaw, snow melts, soaks the soil, and then the frost hits sharply, and the ground freezes deep.
At the very least, an adult plant can survive in such conditions, but their weak children cannot. And when digging in the spring, you can not worry about such a misfortune: if everything is done correctly, the result is guaranteed. But young bushes need more time to enter into force. From experience I can say that this should be done as early as possible so that the soil is as moist as possible.
If you dig in after bud blossoming, the shoots will turn out to be quite frail, which means they can also suffer the coming winter. And in general, it seems to me that it is better to plant the layers in the first year not immediately to a permanent place, but to a schoolchild. Yes, this further delays the process of obtaining a full-fledged bush. Yes, this is extra trouble. But the seedlings as a result will be fully prepared for all the weather vicissitudes.
In general, I came to the conclusion that the second option is preferable, and I began to stick to it.
In spring I select a five-year-old strong bush with intact branches. In its lower part, as close as possible to the ground, I find 2-3 annual shoots and cut them to 1 / 3 lengths {this will help the faster growth of the lateral buds).
Then I bend them one by one to the ground and mark the trajectory of their location with a chopper on the ground. According to these marks, I dig trenches 10-15 cm deep and lay twigs in them so that their tops remain outside - leaves will grow on them, which will feed the buried shoots and contribute to the formation of roots. Then I stitch it to the ground with brackets made of a thick cable with a rubber braid (so that they do not damage the delicate bark of twigs), I fill it with earth and mulch humus.
I regularly weed and water the buried layers. A couple of times in a season I feed them with fermented grass. After they have young shoots and grow back about 10 cm, I spend two small hills with an interval of two weeks (after each I add fresh mulch). At the end of September, cut off the cuttings from the mother's bush by a secateur, carefully dig it out and see what I got.
As a rule, on each sprout grow on 2-3 root systems, from which for the summer grow from the ground young twigs.
Therefore, I divide each rooted shoot into parts according to the number of root systems. And I transfer, as I already said, to the school - a well-fertilized high bed with sides from the boards. When I transfer the seedlings to a permanent place, I first put a handful of river sand, humus and ash in the holes, mix everything and only then lower the gooseberry there.
I heard that there are difficulties in propagating gooseberries with cuttings. What are they and can they be overcome?
Alexey Mikhailovich SHCHEGOLKOV, Moscow region, Orekhovo-Zuyevo
Indeed, when gooseberries are propagated by lignified cuttings, a large dropout is observed. But there is a way out if you use the so-called combined cuttings. They differ in that there are 2-3 green shoots on solid branches. The "twigs" themselves are laid in grooves 8-12 cm deep, which must be well watered and then covered with soil. In this case, green shoots are above the surface of the earth. They should be shortened to 3-5 cm and plentifully irrigated.
Soil moisture during the entire rooting process should be high. This is achieved by watering three times a day. Under this condition, the roots begin to form 2-3 weeks after planting the cuttings. After this time, one watering per day is enough, and when the shoots reach 10 cm, moisture is stopped altogether. For the winter, plantings must be covered.
In the spring, seedlings are fed with ammonium nitrate (1,5-2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). As the shoots grow, starting from a length of 15-20 cm, they are spudded three times.
At the end of September, the cuttings are removed from the ground and divided with a knife or secateurs so that each of the shoots has roots.
Note
In contrast to propagation by layering, the root system during cuttings is formed more powerful. Due to this, seedlings begin to bear fruit a year after planting, while plants obtained by layering begin to produce berries only in the third or fourth year.
See also: How to transplant an adult gooseberry bush
Gooseberry propagation by layering - video
Note: We fight with powdery mildew on gooseberries without chemicals
One of the worst gooseberry diseases is downy mildew, which can kill a berry in two counts. However, I would not advise summer residents, who noticed that the fruits on the bush suddenly begin to blacken and crumble long before ripening, immediately take up the ax. This attack, although serious, but it is possible to cope with it, and without the use of chemistry. True, it will be necessary to work decently, because there will be many measures to save the berry. I personally do the following.
First of all, in the early spring, when the snow still lies, I examine the diseased bush and cut out all suspicious branches.
- Then I plant in 10-liter bucket of water 10 g of soda ash and 100 g of laundry soap, this solution water the plants, trying to process each branch (I do this only in warm weather). As a last resort, I pour boiling water into the watering can and pour all the branches into it, as well as the earth around the bushes.
- After the snow completely comes down, and spring comes into its own, I process the bushes with another means: 50 g household soap, 1 tsp. iodine and 1 l of whey per 1 bucket of water.
- Then, throughout the season, I treat gooseberries (from two to five times - depending on the degree of damage to the bush) with another solution: I dilute 10 g of dry mustard and 200 g of sugar in 100 l of water (it is needed for better adhesion of the product). At the same time I try to moisten the leaves from two sides.
If you are not lazy and all these activities are carried out rigorously, gooseberries will completely get rid of the disease.
© Author: Vladimir SEREGIN. Rostov on Don, Vladimir Pyatak Smolensk region.
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- The best gooseberry varieties - the sweetest, largest-fruited and thornless
- Reproduction of gooseberry by layers
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Gooseberry propagation in autumn
I grow red and green gooseberries. Both varieties are very tasty and sweet. And since everyone in my family loves this vitamin berry, I propagate them myself.
I propagate gooseberries by layering. In mid-autumn, I use pruning shears to separate the cuttings from the mother plant, carefully dig them out of the ground, trying not to damage the roots, and plant each one in a designated and prepared place (I bury the bushes with 2-3 buds).
When planting, I add 1 kg of rotted humus and 20 g of superphosphate to each hole. Before frost, I regularly moisten the soil.
I cover the gooseberry bushes with a mixture of sawdust and peat with a layer of 10 cm.
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WE PROPAGATE GOOSEBERRY BY LAYINGS
In mid-autumn, I use pruning shears to separate the layering from the mother layer.
plants. I carefully dig it out of the ground, trying not to damage the roots, and plant it in the place allocated for it (I bury the bush with 2-3 buds).
When planting in a hole, I add 1 kg of rotted humus and 20 g of superphosphate. I cover the gooseberry bushes with a mixture of sawdust and peat in a 10 cm layer. Before frost, I regularly moisten the soil.
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I decided to propagate gooseberries and dug in the spring at a bush in the autumn a twig. It was well rooted (personally checked), and the next year a sprightly sprout protruded vertically from the ground. But it so happened that I did not have the opportunity to disconnect it from the mother bush neither that season nor the next two.
And now the shoot of this was four years old, he already had small side branches. And at last, my hands reached it. But is it too late to transplant him to a new place? Will he take root there? And if you can do this, do you need to take any special measures during the transplant? Maybe you need to cook a pit under it in some tricky way?
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Gooseberries from a twig with their own hands
I tried to propagate gooseberries with lignified cuttings. The result is not satisfied - cuttings are withered or decayed. But the layers, prikopanny next to the mother's bush, quickly take root.
Gooseberries during the season grow young twigs that lie on the ground. Usually I cut them out - otherwise the fungal disease can develop. But for breeding a couple of these branches I leave. On a clear day, under each such one-year run, I loosen the soil, I make a groove into which I lay it (pre-cut the leaves). I prispilivayu slingshot and sprinkled with earth. Above
the surface of the soil leave the top of the length of 15-20 cm. The whole autumn in the dry weather, I water the plants.
In spring, I cut off the entrenched layers, dig them up with a shovel and transplant them to a permanent place in the prepared landing pits. At the bottom I make 1 / 3 buckets of clay, because the soil is sandy, I fill it with fertile soil, mixed with 1 st.l. urea, 2 st. l. superphosphate, 1 st.l. sulfate potassium and 0,5 buckets of humus. Seedling, when planted, it is buried in a couple of centimeters, I water it abundantly, and I remove the above-ground part to 3-5 kidneys.
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The productive period of the fruit-bearing branches of gooseberries lasts up to 7-8 years.
When forming a plant, it is advisable to create a bush with unevenly developed and well-placed branches. On the annual zero and previously formed shoots, the ends of annual growths with interconnected internodes and underdeveloped buds are cut, and 4-6-summer branches blow out strong zero shoots in the coming years, bringing their number to 15. shorten to the nearest long branch, cutting off long-term endings with weakened increments.
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Our gooseberries began to bear fruit. As it turned out, we were not wrong with the variety - its berries are tasty, sweet, large! I want to propagate a bush. How to do it right?
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Unfortunately, you did not specify which variety you have. It happens that some method of reproduction is suitable for one variety (group of varieties), but it is not acceptable for another. So in your case it is necessary to experiment.
Gooseberry propagates quite well by layering - in October or early spring before buds open.
To do this, you need to select several well-developed branches that are located close to the ground.
Cut shoots to 1 / 3 length. Then bend the branches to the ground, lay them in grooves and pin them. Furrows with the branches laid in them to fall asleep fertile earth, to water and mulch. In late September, a branch with well-rooted shoots separated with a secateurs from a mother plant, dig out and cut into layers. After that, put them on cultivation (within a year).
You can try to multiply gooseberries and cuttings. It is better to take green or combined, as lignified ones get accustomed badly. When transplanting to another place, a good result is obtained by the method of reproduction by mechanical division of the bush.