Cultivation of various types of violets: names, photos and description

Most types of violets are annual or perennial herbs of medium size. The leaves are whole, rarely pinnately dissected. Flowers are single, small, often with a pleasant delicate aroma. Petals of violet, yellow, white tones, sometimes with a contrasting spot at the base. Fruits - boxes with small seeds.

Botanical species of violets

The most famous member of the genus is violet, or viola vittrock (Viola x wittrockiana), many are familiar under the name "pansies". A rare flower garden, garden or balcony does without these bright, unpretentious flowers, which are usually grown as annuals. This species has a complex hybrid origin and now has a huge number of varieties. We'll talk about the perennial botanical varieties of violets, which can be successfully used in ornamental gardening.

OUR REFERENCE

Family of Violets, or Viola (Viola), from the family of Violet (Violaceae) includes more than 500 species distributed throughout the globe. The scientific name is the Roman name of these plants.

Violets everywhere

Violets planted in gardens, parks, on lawns and along roads. Bunches of their delicate flowers were among the first to appear in street flowerers and

served as a bright sign of the coming spring. Over time, images of these flowers began to decorate postcards for congratulations on spring holidays, elegant porcelain dishes, tableware. There were perfumes, soap, shampoos with the smell of violets.

These lovely flowers received unexpectedly wide use in cooking. They are used to decorate salads, the essence with the smell of violets is added to the soufflé, creams, various desserts. Young leaves are eaten as a leafy vegetable raw or cooked.

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Reference by topic:  Violets - home care

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Horned violet

The violet hornet (Viola cornuta) is found in nature in the mountains of northern Spain. Grassy perennial 1 5-25 cm in height, rhizome creeping, branched.

The plant is able to form attractive lush sod. The stems are weak, numerous. Leaves ovate or broadly lanceolate, along margin with noticeable denticles. The flowers are numerous, 3-5 cm in diameter, fragrant, petals of violet tones (from light to velvety ink) with a small yellow eyelet at the base.

Corolla has a prominent horny spur. Thanks to this feature, the look got its name. Flowering is long lasting throughout the growing season (from May to September).

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See also:  Horned violets (photos) planting and care

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Flowers for every taste

The horned violet is somewhat discarded from a number of perennial small-flowered violets, more like "pansies". Currently, there is a large number of its hybrids, varieties, garden forms. They differ in the form of flowers and color.

Varieties of horned violets have smaller flowers, but this is more than paid for by their number. Usually, jackets are so densely covered with flowers that foliage is almost invisible. Another advantage of this plant is the ability for several years to maintain a lush compact curtain and not weaken the flowering.

Planting "pansies", no matter how attractive they are, usually get slovenly by the end of the season, the flowers fade, they lose their brightness and shape. The violet hornet and its cultivars require rejuvenation once in 2-4.

Flowers of a violet hornet stand beautifully in the water. From them we get charming little bouquets, filling the room with a delicate aroma

Violet fragrant

Violet with fragrant (Viola odorata) in nature occurs throughout Europe and the European part of Russia, in the Crimea, the Caucasus, the Mediterranean, Asia Minor and Asia. As an ornamental plant, it was brought to North America and Australia, where it gradually became part of the local plant communities.

OUR COUNCIL

In the garden, violets require a sunny or semi-shaded location.

Soils prefer friable, fertile, moist, with good drainage.

Violets usually form attractive thick curtains. Unfortunately, over time they become loose and untidy, the flowers grow smaller.

To avoid this, curtains should be divided and planted once in 3-4 year (or as necessary).

Fragrant violet - the personification of the very classic "delicate violet", which for centuries has been praised by poets and artists. It is a herbaceous perennial with creeping rhizome. Thickets of this species reach a height of 15 cm. Fragrant violet blooms in April - early May. Fragrant violet has a number of varieties, which differ mainly in the color of the corolla (shades of lilac, white, pink). In plantings, it is most often used as a ground cover under the canopy of trees and shrubs. Unpretentious and durable.

Other types of violets

The other species of perennial violets, which are used in decorative floriculture, are very similar in appearance to a fragrant violet.

Violet sandy (Viola rupestris) - One of the most widespread species, whose range covers most of Eurasia.

It is unpretentious and has garden varieties.

Violet striped (Viola striata) in nature occurs in the eastern part of North America. Distinctive when! a feature of this species are snow-white flowers with thin dark-violet strips on the lower petal.

Violet's sister

Sister Violet (Viola sororia) is another North American species widely distributed in eastern North America. It is the official flower of four states: Illinois, Rhode Island, New Jersey and Wisconsin.

It differs unpretentiousness and abundant flowering. The flowers are bright violet, there are natural varieties with white corolla or white petals, which have a large blurry lilac stain at the base.

Violet downy

Violet is pubescent (Viola pubescens) is distributed in the deciduous forest zone of the central and eastern parts of North America. Has well developed leafy stems up to 25 cm in height and bright yellow flowers. Blossoms in the spring.

Violet is ivy (Viola hederacea) originally from Australia (southeast). Has attractive rounded leaves, deeply carved along the edge. The flowers are single, white, with a blurred purple spot in the center. It has long creeping shoots, so it is successfully used as an ampel plant. Unfortunately, in the conditions of the middle zone of Russia it does not winter in the open ground. Suitable for indoor culture.

Care of violets

Violets are unpretentious. Easily tolerate transplantation even during flowering. Young planting needs regular weeding. Expanded curtains, as a rule, are dense and drown out weeds. In droughty weather, violets require watering. Top-dressing with complex mineral fertilizer is produced in early spring and after flowering.

In autumn it is useful to pour nutritious compost, especially if part of the curtain is exposed to the rhizomes. Fresh organic fertilizers are contraindicated. Delete faded flowers prolongs flowering and prevents self-seeding. Species from warmer regions for winter are useful to cover with foliage or lapnika.

Diseases and pests

Violets are susceptible to a number of diseases. From mushroom infections, powdery mildew, spotting, black stalk, gray mold are observed. Most of the disease affects thickened, waterlogged plantings.

As a measure of struggle, one should first of all adhere to proper agricultural techniques. The spraying of plants and the treatment of seeds and soil with special preparations (foundation, topsin-M) help. It is recommended to burn affected plant parts above the ground. From pests, the danger is represented by caterpillars of clover scoop and violet perlam. To combat them, plants are sprinkled with chlorophos and tobacco infusion.

OUR REFERENCE

The flowers of violets are so lovely that they began to prepare an exquisite dessert: candied violets. Most often, fragrant violet was used for this purpose. The flowers were picked, covered with egg white, and then with powdered sugar.

Reproduction of violets

Natural species of violets reproduce both seeds and vegetatively (by layers, by dividing curtains during transplantation). Seeds are usually sown in autumn directly to the ground. Germination is good, young plants blossom for the second year, sometimes by the end of summer of the first year. The vast majority of natural species of violets easily multiplies by self-seeding.

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Reference by topic:  Violet (Viola Viola) - cultivation, care and varieties

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Dismantle

Some species, in particular fragrant violet, are used for distillation. To do this, in autumn, plants should be transplanted into pots. Until mid-October, they are kept in a cool, dark place with minimal watering. Then they are transferred to a lighted room with a temperature of + 8 ... 10 degrees and begin to water moderately. When the violets start to grow, watering is increased, and also sprayed with warm water. Under these conditions, flowering usually occurs in a month.

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GROWING VIOLETS - PLANTING AND CARE: ADVICE, FEEDBACK AND RECOMMENDATIONS

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HOW TO GROW VIOLETS - SUMMER WATERCOLORS

Three-colored violet, viola, pansies, Vitrocca violet - all these are the names of one plant. Viola blooms early and abundantly, and the variety of colors and all kinds of combinations of their shades amazes the imagination and pleases the eye - this is a whole sea of ​​picturesque colors of summer.

They say that a rose is a queen of flowers, but for me there is nothing nicer than a violet. I love them not because they are unpretentious and quickly bloom, but for large, bright flowers-eyes.

Even if the color of flowers is dense-violet, dark blue or even black, they never bring sadness.

Modern varieties are hybrids obtained by crossing several varieties of violets. Many of them tolerate heat well and can bloom all summer and autumn.

I'm a big fan of pansies, and in my collection there are many varieties. Usually, I grow them through seedlings, because buying already flowering shrubs in pots is very expensive. I choose seeds slowly: it is important that they are fresh, stale seeds lose their germination.

For pansies, soil for flower seedlings is ideal. Pour the soil into a small bowl and carefully tamp so that the tiny seeds do not penetrate into the loose soil. The surface should be moistened. Then comes the turn of jewelry work - the uniform distribution of seeds on the surface. This is most convenient to do with a toothpick. Young plants should not drown each other, so it can complicate the pick. Top seeds sprinkled with a thin layer of earth-5 mm. I usually pour a little more - 7-8 mm, because during watering the seeds are often washed out of the ground. I moisten the top layer from the spray gun and cover it with a transparent film, which will need to be lifted every day for 5-10 minutes for ventilation. The emergence of seedlings depends on the amount of heat and light. Sometimes the first growing points break through after 4-6 days, but if they do not appear even after 10 days, it is too early to sound the alarm. Just transfer the bowl to a lighter and warmer place.

It is better not to tighten with a pick. As soon as two or three leaves appeared, each plant should be provided with a separate pot. Usually, pansies are grown as an annual or biennial. They can grow longer, but then their flowers are very small.

Violets prefer fertile, well-moistened soil and good lighting, but they tolerate penumbra well. The most dangerous is the shortage of soil, even short-term. Therefore, if you grow them in the country. which you visit on weekends, it is better to choose a damp and shaded place so that the flowers do not burn out the sun.

I always break off the buds that are buds. This greatly prolongs flowering, the buds do not grow smaller, the plant blooms more abundantly. Pansies are propagated not only with seeds, but with cuttings. Therefore, if during the weeding process, you accidentally broke off a twig from the bush, do not panic. They are well rooted in pots and in open ground. Cuttings I take in May-July. Cut off shoots planted on a bed, deepening at 0,5 cm, in a shaded area, under a film. The earth should be constantly wet. Roots appear in 2-3 weeks. Rooted cuttings fall in a fall to a permanent place.

Pansies well tolerate winter and do not need shelter. Although some florists, not wanting to part with a particularly fond of specimens, transplant them into flower pots and take them home. It is worth giving a little attention and love to this little eye-colored flower, and he will please you until late autumn.

Once the violets were credited with the property of bewitching love: it is only the juice of the plant to splash on the eyelids of the sleeping elect, and tender love is guaranteed to the very grave. But the French and the Poles in the past were brought to give pansies in memory at the time of separation.

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WHY DO VIOLETS WITHER AND LOSE ELASTICITY?

Why do violet leaves lose elasticity? The plant is healthy, I did not notice any pests on it, but for some reason the leaves began to fade.

L. Russian city of Rostov

Violet leaves, provided that the plant is healthy, can lose turgor for various reasons. Sometimes this happens after an unsuccessful or untimely transplant, prolonged waterlogging, or, conversely, overdrying of an earthen coma. Foliage also loses elasticity due to overfeeding of the plant, changing conditions. Let's consider each situation in more detail.

Sometimes it seems to us that the plant is still small, and we are not in a hurry to transplant, although the roots of the violet have braided and have already penetrated the entire earthen clod. As a result, the leaves wither. The violet must be carefully removed from the pot, if there are a lot of roots, then the plant will be in the hands along with an earthy clod. For transplanting, use a pot with a diameter of 1-1,5 cm larger than the previous one. It is important that it be 1-2 cm deeper than the previous capacity. When transplanting, carefully straighten the roots. And in order for the plant to recover faster and restore leaf turgor, place the violet in a greenhouse bag. Poke a few small holes in the top of the bag. Water moderately, avoiding overdrying of the earthy coma. Usually after 2-3 weeks the leaves regain their elasticity, but sometimes it can take about a month.

Very often, violets from waterlogging begin to rot and die off the roots. This danger is especially great for plants standing on a cold windowsill in winter. One of the signs of waterlogging is the stagnation of water in the pan (a healthy violet quickly draws water into its roots). Since moisture ceases to enter the plant in the required amount, this affects the foliage of the plant, which loses its elasticity.

In case of prolonged waterlogging, the plant must be removed from the pot and its root system carefully examined. All rotten brown roots must be removed. If necessary, shorten and trim the stem to healthy tissue. If the process of decay has gone far, then the lower leaves will also have to be removed (sometimes only a couple of leaves and a growth point can remain from the entire outlet). The stem can be wrapped with moss-sphagnum-mom. The plant is planted in a fresh soil mixture and placed in a greenhouse. Depending on the degree of damage to the roots, it may take up to 1,5 months to restore the violet.

When overdrying the earthy coma, the leaves also lose their elasticity. But often the earth in this case becomes impervious to moisture, the roots do not receive water, dry out and die.

First of all, you need to loosen the earthen ball a little. Then the violet pot is placed in a container of a larger diameter, into which slightly warm water is poured. The water level should not reach the edge of the pot by about 1 cm. The procedure for soaking the earthy clod takes about 4-6 hours. After that, the violet pot is removed from the water and placed on a pallet to remove excess moisture. Usually after 2-3 weeks the plant is fully restored.

As you know, from February to March, indoor violets are at rest, during which it is recommended either not to feed the plants at all, or to do this no more than 1 time per month. If the violet receives additional lighting, then fertilizers can be used at intervals of 1 time in 3 weeks.

In winter, violets are very sensitive to top dressing and react to the slightest overdose with a loss of leaf turgor. If you think that you have overfed the violet, then spill the earthy lump with a large amount (up to 1 liter) of slightly warm water. Then let the moisture drain. Repeat the procedure after 3-4 days. In the next 5-6 weeks, cancel all top dressing.

Violets are very sensitive to changing conditions. They moved or even moved the pot a little, opened the window, put another plant next to it, and the violet can “be capricious”: it refuses to bloom or hangs its leaves with rags. Sometimes it can be difficult to figure out what caused the discomfort. "Ambulance" to the plant in this case is gentle watering and rehabilitation in a greenhouse for a period of 7 to 10 days.

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VIOLET IN THE OFFICE - CARE TIPS

Go to any office - artificial flowers are everywhere. Beautiful, but how can you compare a lifeless gloss with fresh flowers - delicate, unique, fragrant. From them, and mood is better, and fatigue is less, and performance is higher.

I am 28 years old and I really love flowers, especially violets, and I want to share the secrets of caring for them.

For novice flower growers, lovers of violets, the most difficult thing is growing young plants from leaf cuttings. A leaf cutting should be taken healthy and well-colored, an oblique cut is made, which increases the surface for the formation of roots. You can put the cutting in a test tube with distilled water, or you can immediately plant it “under the jar” in moist soil. The soil should consist of peat, better than riding, sand, coniferous soil, although now ready-made "earthen mixture" is sold in stores.

Roots appear after 3-4 weeks.

Some growers bathe or wash the leaf with roots in a fungicide solution to protect the plant from disease. In general, the cuttings must be deepened into the ground by no more than 0-5 cm, otherwise it will be difficult for young plants to be born. I water abundantly. After a month, babies appear, and after 1-2 months they need to be planted in pots. When planting out of the ground, I carefully take out a leaf with a group of children and separate well-formed young plants (leaving smaller ones near the leaf), and plant the leaf again in the soil.

Care consists (except for watering) in the inspection and removal of wilted flowers, dying leaves.

Violet does not like bright colors, it may have spots, holes on the leaves; does not like too wet ground, the roots may rot, and a gray coating will appear on the leaves (such leaves need to be plucked).

To prevent water from entering the outlet, it is convenient to use a medical pear for watering violets.

It should be watered carefully, on the ground, without falling into the core. If water does get on the flower, blot with a cotton swab and remove any remaining moisture.

If the plant does not bloom, then it does not have enough heat or light. Perhaps the soil is “heavy” or the pot is large - roots are growing.

If the socket rots, cut off the top and root it in the ground or put it in a test tube with water.

If the leaves wither and rot, it is necessary to transplant the plant into fresh soil. This is how I take care of violets. In general, I really love flowers and I think that there should be a lot of them, because such beauty cannot but please the eye.

Recently, miniature violets have been popular, not inferior in beauty to their older "sisters". They develop faster - already six months after planting a leaf cutting, you can get a flowering plant. Mini violets require more frequent watering - every other day, and a small amount of water should drain and remain in the pan.

Violets are uncomfortable on the windowsill. More suitable rack with lighting. Artificial lighting is necessary for flowers 10-12 hours a day.

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© Author: Marina Novoselova Photo: Yuri Roskov

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