How to deal with gall aphids on currant - means and methods
The fight against the grapnel aphids - the advice of an experienced gardener
On my site grows about a dozen bushes of red and black currant, which require constant attention to themselves. In any case, the pests of this culture are not bored during the whole season. And the most intrusive of them is aphid.
If on the bushes of black currant I could easily detect these insects, then with her redneck sister it was different. On black currant, the activity of common aphids is noticeable on folded wrinkled young leaves on the tips of shoots, and the pest itself is clearly visible to the naked eye. On the red currant, such aphids also periodically appeared, but leaves with strange, bubbly swellings of red color caused much more concern.
When inspecting such leaf plates, I did not detect any insects. I thought that the bushes do not have enough phosphorus, and heavily fed the plants, but did not notice the effect of such feeding.
Moreover, the red spots, initially appearing on the upper young leaves, gradually spread to the remaining leaf plates. Eventually, the affected leaves withered and fell. This story lasted two years, and during the harvesting period, I noticed that the berries on the red currant bushes have become much smaller, and the yield has greatly decreased. It became clear: the reason is hidden in these red leaves. And I decided to immediately find out what kind of attack, and take drastic measures in the fight against it.
For a long time I surfed the Internet in search of an answer to my question. At first I was looking for signs of mineral starvation of currants, but then I accidentally stumbled upon a note on gall aphids and recognized my currants from a photograph - exactly the same red swelling appeared on its leaves!
I trust the Soviets from the Internet a little: they all seem to be one person, and there is a feeling that they are written by people far from gardening. In addition, in that note for the control of gallic aphids, it was recommended that chemical preparations be carried out, which I do not accept.
I think that since I myself am growing fruits for myself and my loved ones, they should be environmentally friendly. And for what then do you need a summer residence? Dried fruits and berries are also available on the market.
But still I was glad to find out what kind of pest damaged my shrubs. The gall aphid has a very small size and is not visible to the naked eye. In addition, it settles exclusively on the underside of the leaves. Females lay eggs on the currant shoots in the fall, and the new generation begins to hatch immediately with the arrival of heat, at the same time as young leaves begin to bloom on the bushes - they become its food.
Later, insects grow wings, and they begin to fly to other plants, such as weeds. But in the fall they return to the currant again. And over the season there are several new generations of this pest. It is not for nothing that my currant began to bear fruit worse - these insects, when massively distributed, cause very significant damage to the plantations and can even cause their death.
See also: Fighting aphids - my way
Four Successful Attacks
So, I decided to do without insecticides this time and try to bring out the gall bladder with the so-called folk remedies.
The struggle was successful: in the first season, when I started to process, the number of red leaves was halved, in the second year, red blisters on the leaf blades were already single, and in the summer I did not find a single blister sheet! Currant came to life in full view and eventually returned its former yield.
In the early spring during the bud blossoming, I treated the bushes with infusion of tobacco dust. For this 0,5 kg of powder flooded 4-5 l of warm water, covered the lid and left for two days. The contents were stirred intermittently. Then he filtered it through several layers of gauze, brought the volume of infusion to 10 l, added 4 art. l. Liquid soap (used garden green soap) and mixed well. Liquid sprayed the sprayer and abundantly, "from the heart" processed shrubs.
After 10-12 days, he repeated the treatment - by this time young leaves were already on the shoots. But now he used baking soda as a remedy. 1 cup of powder was diluted in 10 l of water, added soap to stick the solution and processed the bushes, paying particular attention to the underside of the leaf plates.
Immediately after the end of flowering sprayed bushes infusion of wormwood.
For this, he grazed the grass in the vicinity, crushed it, filled it with a third of the bucket and filled it with warm water. Wormwood insisted under the lid for a day. Then, the solution was filtered, brought its quantity to 10 l, added soap and processed the plants.
And the last, fourth treatment - with the infusion of tomato tops - was carried out after harvesting on the currant. I used stepchildren remaining after the formation of tomatoes. Infusion prepared similarly to wormwood. In addition, throughout the season he carefully monitored the cleanliness around the bushes, weeding out all the weeds.
Such treatment was conducted every season and I will continue to do this every year, despite the fact that I do not observe signs of gallic aphid on my plantings any more. Because prevention is better than cure.
Gallic aphid can be naughty and on black currant, and for me it remains a mystery why she chose only red on my site, although black-berry grows very close? In general, if one of the readers found such signs on their bushes, I advise you to take immediate action. For this I send my photo of the affected currant, made two years ago, for a good example.
© Author: Igor Valerievich KOSOV. Voronezh
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If leaves with red swellings appear on red currant bushes, it means that leaf gall aphids have settled on them.
It begins to cause damage in early spring (mainly on red and white currants), as soon as the young leaves unfurl. The larvae feed on plant sap from the underside of the leaf. Damaged shoots grow poorly, which negatively affects the yield of berries.
What can be done? Pick off damaged leaves and destroy them. Inspect the tops of the shoots. If there are aphids, trim them and destroy them. Be sure to weed under the bushes, as aphids also feel great on the grass.
If there is a small amount of the pest, immediately after flowering, spray the plantings with infusion of chamomile, tobacco, onion or garlic, while wetting the back of the leaves well. If there are a lot of pests, you cannot do without chemicals: you will need to treat the bushes with Actellik, Sumicidin or Novaktion, according to the instructions.
To prevent this from happening, treatment of currant bushes from pests should be carried out at the beginning of the growing season when the buds are swelling.
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I realized that the main thing in the fight against them is prevention. As soon as the first leaves with aphids appear, I take action, do not let it spread further.
And before, it happened, before you had time to look back, and the leaves were already withered and blackened. The aphids loved my plum just as much as the codling moth. Now in early spring before flowering, I spray them with tobacco infusion. I pour half a glass of tobacco dust into a three-liter jar, fill it to the top with water and insist for several days. Then I filter, dilute with water 1:1, add a little liquid soap for sticking and spray. In the same way I prepare wormwood infusion and alternate both, applying once a week. In spring, in good weather, I pour boiling water over currants: it seems to do no harm.
Once in a notebook I wrote down the following recipe: instead of dousing with boiling water, take karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water), add 1 tsp. tar or green soap and spray all plantings.
Sometimes currants and gooseberries look bad, the leaves curl. I got rid of gall aphids in this way: for 10 liters of water, take 1 tbsp. l. soda, you can add liquid soap. Jars of compote also help - I hang them on trees and put them under the bushes. A lot of moth-like butterflies get into them. Keep an eye out for beneficial insects.
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In summer, the tops of the currants are covered with aphids. How can you remove it so as not to harm the shrub? And one more thing: currant branches dry up. Why?
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- Against aphids and thrips, which suck the juices from the tops of the shoots, I usually breed Fitoverm on the site (according to the instructions) - this is the most environmentally friendly and at the same time quite effective insectoacaricidal preparation. As for the drying of the shoots, this is the work, most likely, of the currant glass. The fight against this pest is complicated by the fact that the caterpillars live inside the branches. What to advise? Cut damaged branches to the ground and incinerate immediately. Spraying with insecticides is useless, but there are biological products (Nemabact, Antonem-F) based on predatory nematodes that will cope with caterpillars. Prepare the solution strictly according to the instructions.
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One of the dangerous misfortunes of the currant is the gall aphid, which can be identified by the red swellings on the leaves of plants. Most often, the pest infects red currants, but I also found aphids on black. The pest feeds on the underside of the leaves. As a result, the bush weakens, the berries become much smaller, the leaves dry out and become dead. A harvest is out of the question.
An experienced gardener suggested a solution to the problem. On his advice, she cut off the damaged leaves and burned them. Then she sprinkled the bushes abundantly with soapy water (200 ml of liquid laundry soap per 10 liters of water) and sprinkled the plants with tobacco powder on top (rubbed dry tobacco into dust). Work beam-
she spend in the evening after sunset. One procedure was enough for me to clear the currants from pests.
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It is really possible and necessary to deal with currant red-gall aphids even before the appearance of swelling on the leaves. Often, when we notice them, the aphids are no longer on the leaves - they have migrated to nearby weeds. Treatment with soapy water and tobacco dust helped to cope only with the remains of aphids on the leaves. But in the next season, do not expect the appearance of characteristic swelling, but spray the bushes with the same soapy solution and dust with tobacco dust during the budding period and the deployment of currant leaves. Since biological agents have a rather low efficiency, these procedures need to be repeated at least once a week, and with a strong infestation of aphids - every 3-4 days.
To combat the pest, you can also use Fitoverm, Aktofit or other insecticides, but they can only be used before and after flowering, so as not to harm the bees.
Treat the bushes again in the second half of summer, as you harvest, and also feed them with a complex fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, which will help the plants prepare for wintering and lay full-fledged flower buds for next year. And be sure to fight weeds in the garden - this is not only a refuge and winter "apartments" for aphids, but also a reservoir of dangerous viral diseases that the pest transfers to plants.
Julia Kondratenko, Cand. of sciences
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On the bushes of blackcurrant - an abundance of clumps of web, which entangles brushes with ovaries. Who arranges such nests?
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This is how gooseberry moths behave. This is the most dangerous pest of all kinds of currants and gooseberries. Her butterflies of gray color with a wingspan of up to 3 cm, starting in spring, lay their eggs in buds, flowers, and later in the ovary. Hatched caterpillars eat flowers, gnaw holes in the ovaries, damaging them. Pupilizing, they braid a web of berry brushes.
To prevent further cycle of reproduction of these insects, such nests must necessarily be removed from the bushes and burned. In addition, it should be late in the autumn to bush the bushes with earth (so that the pupae fallen with the nests when turning into butterflies could not get out in the spring).
On the eve of flowering plants need to be treated with "Karbofos". Infusions of needles and citrus peels also help. During the growing season, the bushes can be treated with biological products against pests - Iskra-bio, Fitoverm, Agravertin.
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It wields one of the varieties of cicadas - slobbering pennies. And the name is quite justified: its larvae, beating up the juice sucked from plants with their feet, build a house out of foam to protect themselves from enemies and even chemical treatments.
It's a pretty dangerous pest that sucks the juices out of the plants. It strikes strawberries, parsley, dog rose, and also many kinds of flowers. At the same time, it does not tolerate the smell of thyme and melissa, therefore it is recommended to plant these plants around the berry.
Another feature of pennies is the preference for wet places. Therefore, plantings should not be thickened, and from time to time they should be thinned out.
To control the pest before flowering or after picking berries, pollinate the planting with a mixture of tobacco dust and ash (1: 1).