Forming and pruning of a grape bush for beginners
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Pruning and shaping grapes - tips for beginners
I write at the request of readers who are beginning wine growers, who do not quite understand the nuances shaping and pruning of a bush.
Terms of planting grapes
Landing I spend in spring and in autumn: there is practically no difference in terms in our region. In regions with little snowy winters and relatively low air temperatures, with deep freezing of the soil, I would advise planting to be carried out in the spring. And that's why.
The sapling bought in the spring has already overwintered and showed its frost resistance, and if the seedlings are properly chosen and skilful planting, it gets well, adapts during the vegetation to the place, ripens better, prepares for winter and winter.
The seedling, which was bought in autumn, and even with foliage, most likely did not mature fully.
There is an unwritten rule of the gardener-vinograder: the seedlings from the schoolchild are to be excavated and transplanted no earlier than October 1. After planting, the seedlings need time to build roots, and this is not less than 20 days, and warm. Otherwise, with the onset of frosts, it will simply freeze.
See also: Grapes - correct pruning, shaping and pasyning
Selection of seedlings
I buy them in the All Russian Research Institute of Viticulture and Wine-making. ME AND. Potapenko, located in 30 km from me in Novocherkassk, as well as from trusted acquaintances of wine growers. Taking from strangers in the market is dangerous not even because they can slip the wrong grade, this is not the worst.
With a seedling bought from an unfamiliar seller, you can bring it to your site of the disease, including phylloxera is such a microscopic root aphid.
It is practically impossible to remove it, it is necessary to root the plantations and relocate them to phylloxerable rootstocks of the type Kober-5VB {vigorous), Riparna 101-14 (srednegorosly) and others.
My advice to beginning wine growers: always choose seedlings of high condition, with a well developed root system and a well-ripened vine. Roots should be moist, fresh and not parched, well bend and not break.
Run a fingernail along the spine - it should be white and juicy. If, however, the roots were slightly planted, they should be placed in water from several hours to a day, depending on the wilting. You can’t take a sapling with leaves, this indicates that he has not fully matured - if planted, he will die. There is a lot of moisture in the vine of the seedling, and it crystallizes and breaks the tissues during the first frosts.
The vine on the seedling should be well ripened and almost dry, when ripening, nutrients leave it in the root system. With slight bending, the vine should produce a kind of crack of the bast - this is evidence that it is well ripened.
Saplings can be single or biennial. When planting a high-quality seedlings with a well-developed root system and a ripened vine, you can get two good shoots in the first year instead of one and thus quickly form a grape bush.
Molding and pruning of grapes
I already talked about working with grape bushes. But not all of them figured it out. Difficulties with understanding arise in the chapter on the final stage in the final formation and pruning. I will try to explain more clearly.
When a knot of substitution and a fruiting vine are formed from the buds, there is no particular difference in which side the shoot of the substitution knot and fruiting vine will be on the side. If it is located on the inside of the bush, then the growth of the vine will be more compact to the center of the bush. If the knot of substitution outside - the bush grows as if to the side from the center to the ground. This deviation is insignificant and is corrected by the bending of the vine.
Depending on the varietal characteristics of the shoot bush, the majority of the vines have 1-2 underdeveloped first buds, of which usually no good shoots are obtained, so in autumn they can not be taken into account in pruning. In the spring, when the buds swell, they are removed.
In the previous article, I showed the complete formation and trimming of a bush with a replacement knot located inside the bush. In that article, I'll show the shaping and trimming of the example of one sleeve, where the replacement knot is located on the outside of the bush. There is practically no difference in this. In the spring I produce a dry garter of a grape bush, a knot of substitution and vines of fruiting strictly horizontally along the wire.
After the swelling of the kidneys and the beginning of the extension of the shoots, I select the best ones located on the vine, and delete the rest. On the knot of substitution I will leave the two best shoots, and on the fruiting vine from 4 to 20 eyes, depending on the varietal characteristics of the bush. The average cutting on the fruit vine is 6-8 eyes. I tie the shoots evenly to the wire as they grow and remove the unwanted shoots that appear.
When inflorescences appear, I delete them on the two shoots of the substitution knot (Fig. 1). On the shoots of the fruiting vine I leave the lower inflorescences, and I delete everything that is located above this inflorescence. 06-When the bush is underloaded, in the autumn I leave not one fruit link, but two, or even three when pruning. I tie all the shoots as they grow and stepson, leaving 1-2 leaves in the axils of the leaves. When on fruit vines above the brush there will be 8-10 sheets, I make a pinch of the apical shoot. On idle shoots, I do this later - when they reach the upper wire or a little more, I do the chocking (trimming) of the apical shoot.
Evening top dressings
On fertile shoots grow larger, it is better to fill the bunches when ripening. During the period of spring-summer, the bush gathers the maximum mass, there is a ripening of the vine and harvest. In this period, the bush should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with the addition of boron in the calculation of 20 g of water-soluble mineral fertilizer per 10 l of water under the bush, which was abundantly watered.
I try to make complex-mineral fertilizers together with organic fertilizers, they give a great effect and do not knock down the acid-base balance of the soil. In the evening I spend foliar dressing with the same fertilizers, slightly lowering the dose.
Depending on the varietal characteristics of the bush, in the summer or early autumn (Figure 2), the vine ripens approximately to 1 / 2 or to 2 / 3. At this time I collect the ripened harvest and shorten the vines halfway so that they do not distract the food, and the remaining ones are needed for photosynthesis and better maturing of the idle shoots of the bitch replacement.
In late autumn (Fig. 3), after falling leaves or the first frost, I completely cut off the grape bush. I completely cut out the fruiting link, shorten the idle shoots of the substitution knot. The lower one is cut briefly into 2 eyes or with a margin of 4 eyes - the future replacement knot.
The upper one is cut long, from 4 to 20 eyes - depending on the varietal characteristics of the bush. Usually I cut into 6-8 eyes with a small margin.
See also: How many shoulders (sleeves, layers or shoots) to leave on a bush of grapes at pruning
Grapes pruning
In Fig. 4 shows a complete pruning of the grape bush. In a dry, clear, windless and not frosty weather, the cut vine bushes are treated with 3-percentage solution of ferrous sulfate (300 g of vitriol at 10 L of water) from various fungal diseases and chlorosis. Dryed after processing the bushes tie into bundles and press the wire clips to the ground.
I cover it with pieces of roofing material, a double plastic wrap or rubberized fabric waterproof material such as dermatine - such a material has been with me for many years. I drip the ends of the shelter with earth. In this form, my bushes always winter well.
The form of trimming that I have given is used very long by the method of the French winegrower J. Guyot. This is the most successful and widespread formation of the bush.
Pruning and shaping grapes - the schemes in question
© Author: Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zhilyakov. Shakhty of the Rostov region.
Grape pruning at the end of the season
Proper pruning of grapes - the key to normal growth and a good harvest. Without this agricultural reception, the vines will lengthen, and the berries will be finer. But here's the problem: novice gardeners often don’t know how to approach the bush
In this case, listen to the recommendations of the scientist Vladimir USTINOV, who has dedicated grapes for more than 20 years of life.
Proceed to pruning not earlier than the first frosts (in the middle lane this is usually the end of October-beginning of November, in the southern regions - even later).
Start work with plants of more capricious varieties, less winter-hardy.
In household plots, the fan formation of the vine is most often used. In this case, the easiest way to trim: leave 6-8 eyes on the shoot from the base, and cut off everything above. And such shoots in the fan should be 5-6, and delete the rest. As a result, the bush will receive more nutrition, will not be thickened, the plant will be better ventilated and shined with the sun, which means it will hurt less.
For the winter, grape plants, especially table varieties, must be covered. After pruning, walk along an already sleeping vine with a solution of iron sulfate (300-500 g per 10 l water) - this preventive treatment will help to cope with the remnants of the infection on the bushes.
To protect the root system, which is the most vulnerable in grapes, cover the soil under the plants with a layer of sawdust (up to 10 cm). Remove the shoots from the trellis and bend. I don’t advise laying them on bare ground, it’s better to put a “pillow” - spruce branches or straw (just not fresh and always “complete” with poisoned baits for mice). And top cover with a spanbond or dornite, which has recently been popular with many wine growers.
OUR REFERENCE
When pruning the grapes, follow the rule: the shoot must be cut so that 1 cm of vines remain above the eye. If you need to choose which shoot to remove as a whole, first cut out all sick, thin and twisted vines. And if there are not a lot of shoots in the bush and all of them are of poor quality, it is advisable to cut them short (leave only 2-4 eye).
HOW TO CUT Grapes IN AUTUMN - Crop Grapes in VIDEO FOR BEGINNERS
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to plant your grape variety with seeds?
- Growing chibouks of grapes
- Grape care in July - disease control and feeding
- Growing grapes - planting and leaving from A to Z (Orenburg region)
- Spots on grape leaves: recognize and treat
- How to care for grapes in the fall - a description of the departure from k.s.h. sciences
- Rooting grape cuttings in winter
- Grapes - autumn planting: important rules
- Grapes - correct pruning, shaping and pasyning
- How to get a vintage after a spring frost
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Sometimes old or diseased bushes for rejuvenation are cut out under the root - “on the black head”. A year - without berries at all, another year - a third or half of the crop. Extreme, in my opinion, is unjustified: usually the bush gives shoots or tops. And if not, it makes no sense to cut it: the roots died. In addition, Asian varieties ('Rizamat', 'Husayn', etc.) and their descendants ('Biruin') are not inclined to give growth from hemp.
They must either be rejuvenated by burying the sleeves in the ground, or provoke the emergence of the shoots at the base of the sleeves. The bush that gave the tops or shoots can be rejuvenated by replacing the sleeves with them - immediately or in turn. To understand how viable the sleeve is, take it in your hands and without hesitation cut out everything that is weak. If something remains, you can get the last bunch. No - remove the sleeve to the substitute. And if the bush instead of the tops gave a strong shoot, it is necessary to cut the old sleeves under the root. This is how bushes overloaded to their biological limit rejuvenate themselves in summer cottages. They simply periodically freeze to the soil. The roots most often remain intact, and over the course of the summer several oily vines grow. A couple of them are left to form a new bush, immediately laying arrows on them from strong stepsons. The remaining vines are cut under the root in the spring or allowed to bear fruit once.
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The annual cycle of growth and development of grapes is divided into two periods - vegetation and dormancy. The first of them, in turn, can be divided into six phases.
The initial one is sap flow, characterized by a transition from the externally passive state of the plant to the active activity of cells. And the first “sign” of this is precisely the very “cry” referred to in the letter of the respected Vera Yurievna, that is, isolation of molasses from sections and wounds on a plant.
In other words, this cannot be avoided! And there is no disaster in this either. Moreover, in the sheltering viticulture zone, pruning is carried out in two stages: in the autumn, leaving a few extra buds in case of freezing, and in the spring - as expected, i.e. two or three kidneys (or whatever you like).
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Grapes need care all year, he needs various agricultural manipulations. One of them is pinching, that is, removing the tip of the green shoot. It is done a few days before flowering. This prevents the grapes from stretching in length, while all the nutrients go to the inflorescences.