Contents ✓

✓ Tool for building a polycarbonate greenhouse
✓ Foundation under the greenhouse with their own hands
✓ The frame of a future greenhouse
✓ Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse - estimate

Polycarbonate greenhouse with own hands

Many people passionately take a great interest in plant growing, including in the socially useful sense, that these plants are then eaten. Often the fruits of this hobby get quite tasty - tastier than from the store.

Often, but, alas, not always, because the area of growth of these plants is generally unfavorable. Since I have a wife, a lover of plants, and a propensity for tasty and healthy food, I had to make a greenhouse. This is not the first greenhouse on our dacha site, before that there were film greenhouses. Then they were replaced by film greenhouses, modified to greenhouses, covered with polycarbonate. Here I want to share with my readers my experience of building a small greenhouse of polycarbonate "from scratch", that is, without the use of finished structures.

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Tool for building a polycarbonate greenhouse

Roulette, shovels, wheelbarrow, concrete mixer, Bulgarian, wood saw, ax, drill, drill, hammer, screwdriver, welding machine.

Before the construction, I did not draw any plans and drawings, there were only general ideas about what to do. It was necessary to make a small greenhouse on a solid, even foundation, to which the load-bearing elements of iron were securely attached. From above all cover with polycarbonate, make a door and windows.

Foundation under the greenhouse with their own hands

In the beginning it was necessary to build a foundation under the greenhouse, that is, a foundation. According to the experience of many of my friends and relatives, the lack of a quality foundation leads to deformations in the construction of the greenhouse and to decay of the lower elements of the structure, if they are made of wood. Sensing that I would not be able to finish it before the winter, I decided to start construction before the harvest was over. Distinguished the corners of the future foundation, dug a groove between them about one and a half bayonets wide and a bayonet and a half deep.

When installing the corner pegs, I checked the length of the diagonals-it should be the same in the rectangle. At the bottom of the groove lay a little gravel (about five centimeters) and trampled it.

The wider and smoother the formwork boards, the more beautiful the foundation, but the beds still need to be digged.

Flexion of racks using improvised means.

After that, with the help of planks, he built a formwork over the edges of the groove. The height of the formwork turned out to be different, since the plot under the greenhouse has a drop in the heights of centimeters 30, that is, the height of the foundation turned from about 10 to 40 cm above the level of the surrounding soil. The main thing is to try to make the foundation surface horizontal. The boards of the formwork were fixed with screws to the pegs piled into the ground. Pegs hammered outside the outer wall of the formwork and inside the inner wall of the formwork. From above, the walls of the formwork were joined by planks on the screws.

In the corners of the board of the formwork I connected with each other self-tapping screws. In addition to the formwork, the ground was poured from the outside. Ruberoid was attached to the formwork with a stapler. To save forces and materials in places, roofing felt served as a formwork (where the slits were too large), and in places narrowed the stripes only the slit itself. In places where flat, broad boards lay, there was no ruberoid at all.

Inside the future foundation laid one thread of reinforcement diameter of 10 mm. In the corners stuck pieces of reinforcement, so that they protrude above the level of the foundation, and along the length of the walls, too, stuck on the 1-2 armature. With proper planning, you could stick at the right distance, I stuck at random, trying only to keep them on the same line.

Manufacturing of the formwork was completed closer to the evening of Sunday, it was decided to fill the foundation on the same day, for it had already started to freeze at night - I did not want to get under frost. With the help of a small concrete mixer and son, who brought up sand, the work was finished already in the dark. The mixture was poured directly into the formwork, using a sheet of tin, installed under the slope between the concrete mixer and the formwork.

Two weeks later I tore off the boards and roofing material, dug out the carrot, then forced my son to dig up the earth and approximately form the beds, as well as the passage between them inside the future greenhouse.

In such a state, the foundation was covered with snow.

Reference by topic: Polycarbonate greenhouse with own hands (photo) - step by step

The frame of a future greenhouse

With the approach of spring, I continued work on the creation of a supporting frame of a greenhouse. I note that I was a little lucky - the length of the future greenhouse, arbitrarily taken during construction, was slightly less than the double width of polycarbonate sheets, just enough to do with two sheets and make a lap. And on this length it was decided to make five spans between the vertical pillars of the supporting frame. Five - because on the average flight there should be a window leaf. Total required six vertical racks of the frame from each long side of the greenhouse. At the top of the rack had to connect, forming a large letter "L".

The corner is cut and slightly bent.

Left and right racks are laid out in different piles.

Holes at the top for temporary wire connection.

Holes with a diameter of 9 mm for bars.

Incisions to give the desired shape of a slope.

The bar is inserted into the bottom hole.

For the manufacture of racks, a steel corner 25 x 2 mm is used. The length of the corner at first was 3 meters (half a sheet of polycarbonate), but then, knowing itself and waiting for the appearance of curvature and distortions, shortened them to 290 cm. To ensure a smooth fold the racks were cut on one side by a Bulgarian.

Lying wall during assembly.

The frame is mostly assembled. The middle pane and the door is not there yet.
Output of the rod at the end. Contact surface for polycarbonate is painted with gray enamel on the ground.

The notches started about 60 cm from the bottom and went through every 15 cm - the number of notches on each rack is about 10.

On incisions, bent approximately as it should - with the help of improvised stops.

The racks on the different sides of the greenhouse are different, so that the other, non-cutted corner of the corner at different posts after bending looked in one direction. Before bending in the lower and middle parts of the pillars, holes of 9 mm in diameter are made for four bars with a diameter of 8 mm on each side and one hole with a diameter of 4 mm at the top of the racks for temporary wire binding during assembly.

These holes are made in the sawn curtains. In the unshielded cuts we make holes with a drill bit 4,1-4,2 mm for fixing polycarbonate. In the end stands polycarbonate holes are made in both legs. In height, these holes are made at the edges of the posts and then distributed evenly through approximately 30 cm. To assemble the construction, an assistant (preferably two) is needed. First, we collect one side, inserting one rod, starting from the bottom. Then, likewise, we place the struts of the opposite side on the bars. Please note: the end racks should be facing an angle of 90 degrees inside the greenhouse.

Two 6-meter piece of polycarbonate in a roll - in anticipation of the ready frame.

One wall is set, the other still lies.

Somehow, the crookedly assembled walls are laid next to the foundation, then we put it, we support it with stakes, we connect it and fix it with wire, we evenify it and start fixing it with welding.

Before the beginning of the alignment, weld the lower part of the outriggers to the corner armaturns protruding from the foundation, then move the inner pillars to the necessary distances along the length along the wall (I have the same distances, but it can be otherwise). The main thing is not to forget to straighten the upper ends of the racks at once (I forgot to align in one place - it turned out slightly unevenly).

After that, we fix the position of the racks on the rods by welding, I start with the lower rods and go from bottom to top. Then cut the straight corner for the upper ridge along the length of the greenhouse, taking into account the canopies at the ends, making it larger holes with a diameter of 4,1 mm and welded to the upper ends of the racks, forming the ridge of the supporting structure.

Next, I welded all the incisions to fix the shape of the roof I needed (some, of course, missed). In the extreme lower spans of the frame, the diagonal bars from the rod were welded for strength. On the end he made jumper from the same rod, cut out, welded and welded on the hinges end and middle window and door. For the strength fixed to the foundation of the lower parts of the middle racks, because the armor was sticking out unknown where, I had to weld the horizontally scraps of the corner. These structural elements are made of steel strip 20 x 2 mm, dimensions and shape - in the place of installation. Loops bought the most simple forks in the nearest construction.

Greenhouse, side view. Above is still not enough skate.

The walls of the ridge in the greenhouse are reinforced with sheet asbestos cement.
Drip irrigation and fruit.

The end window is triangular, with hinges on the bottom edge, is equipped with a bolt of the bolt type, which he invented himself. In my opinion, simply and reliably.

The middle window is rectangular, with loops along the top edge. The lower edge of the window in the manual version is opened by the lever and fixed at the correct height with the help of a "comb" - vertical pins, in which the lever rest. The lever is specially made from a curved rod to pick up its length by folding. The frame after welding was rinsed with a rust neutralizer (according to the instructions), allowed to dry and covered with a red primer. In addition, polycarbonate was painted gray with enamel (all the paint did not have enough time and effort).

Polycarbonate (the thinnest) was bought by 6-meter pieces. We cut it in half, leaned against the frame and fastened outside to the frame with the help of exhaust rivets, laying the wide galvanized washers on top of the polycarbonate. Excess polycarbonate was cut with scissors. In places of overlap (and they turned out on air), the sheets were joined by nylon screeds for electricians. At the top I wanted to make a little horse of tin, but my hands did not reach.

Ball valve with a coarse filter between the drivetrain and the crane.
The greenhouse withstood the fall of the birch.

Adjusting tap for controlling the intensity of irrigation.
Black barrel - a source of water for irrigation.

The inner walls of the beds were fastened with sheet asbestos cement with a height of about 25 cm with iron pegs from the remnants of the reinforcement.

This summer, near the erected greenhouse from the storm, the birch fell, fell successfully, the greenhouse stood.

A drip irrigation system for a home-made greenhouse

In the online store "Ali-Express" a drip irrigation system was purchased and installed. In addition, a polyethylene barrel, a short overhang on a half-inch pipe, two nuts with washers and rubber gaskets from galvanized iron, a ball valve have been purchased. A plastic barrel of water was first installed on an old, leaky iron barrel, and then the design was finalized to the table, equipping the barrel with an anti-theft system with a padlock.

Between the driveway and the ball valve is inserted a rubber washer with a metal mesh for rough filtration entering the water system from the barrel. To adjust the intensity of irrigation at the entrance to the system, it is not bad to put another adjusting tap, separately purchased on the Internet.

Experience has shown that the 200-liter barrel helps to save the crop, further moistening the beds between the days off. And it is better to put a tap, opening on the timer, before the adjusting tap. Then it will be possible to water evenly throughout the whole week. This is the next step to perfection.

The first crop of peppers turned out quite good, eggplants pumped up, were too densely planted.

For the winter, the greenhouse remains unchanged. The sloping roof without additional cleaning can withstand any snowfalls, it is checked on previous versions, with less slope. Barrel and hoses drip irrigation for the winter are removed and retracted into the barn, from damage by frost and ultraviolet. The only concern in winter is to throw snow into the greenhouse to cover strawberries growing from the edges of the beds from frost.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse - estimate

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Dacha with their own hands > Summer construction > Greenhouses and greenhouses > How I built a polycarbonate greenhouse with my own hands

2 Review (s)

Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)
26/05/2018 (14:11) #

It seemed to me an interesting design of the hothouse-breadbox. Remember, at one time in every kitchen was a wooden box with a semicircular door?

So do these greenhouses. Their plus is that there is no need to go inside, which is important for people suffering, for example, pressure. And if you install the structure on a raised bed-box, the advantages that facilitate the work of the summer resident will only increase.

Svetlana LEBEDEVA, Penza
28/03/2018 (12:17) #

Many people believe that a polycarbonate greenhouse is eternal, and are very disappointed when it quickly fails. Yes, polycarbonate is a durable material, but it also needs care.
First, do not use aggressive chemicals during the autumn disinfection. Do not use smoke bombs based on sulfur for fumigation, although such recommendations are often found!

For polycarbonate greenhouses there are special smoke bombs with thiabendazole. Also, do not use hard scrapers to clean dirt, mold and algae. But you can use a steam generator - a stream of hot steam gently and effectively disinfect joints, corners and other hard-to-reach places.
In winter, regularly discharge snow from the roof. A half-meter layer of snow with its weight can break not only the sheets of plating, but also the racks. Do not scrape off the frozen snow.
If there is no possibility to come to the site in winter, then install an additional support frame inside the greenhouse.
The big problem for the greenhouse is the weather of the end of winter, when the sun shines brightly during the day, and at night there is a frosty frost. During the day, the air inside the greenhouse is heated, the inner layer of polycarbonate is warmed. And at night outside the polycarbonate is strongly cooled, as a result of the heat stresses appear in the sheet. If the roof is also crushed by snow, it can crack. Therefore, try to ventilate the greenhouse to level the temperature inside and out. However, if you happen to be on site rarely, then the door and windows should be tightly closed so that they do not swing with the wind.