Folk Remedies for Moniliasis and Curly
Contents ✓
How to deal with leaf curliness and moniliosis in apricots and other trees
I believe that the most insidious diseases of stone fruit trees are moniliosis and curly foliage (especially apricot goes to it).
The first attack in this case is also very tricky: do not count how many summer residents she cheated (it happens that even experienced "buy"), pretending to be the consequences of frostbite branches.
Gardeners do not attach much importance to this, and then a malignant fungus grows right in the opening flowers, and a week later they all die.
After studying the numerous ways to combat this disease, described by practice gardeners, I decided to generalize their experience and conducted a whole complex of works with trees in 2015-2016.
Reference by topic: Treatment and spraying of the garden from pests and diseases
Spraying from moniliasis and curly
In autumn 2015 processed this solution: 1 kg of urea per bucket of water, then a half-bucket of each apricot tree.
Sprayed all the twigs and leaves. And after the fall of the fall, all the litter under the tree crowns covered with a thick layer of straw. From this fungus moniliosis suffers a strong loss: a strong urea solution clears its spores from the branches, and straw preserves the soil of the survivors of the disease in the soil.
This mulch fulfills one more important function: since apricots have a superficial root system, the straw not only gives moisture to it, but also protects it from frost in winter.
During the warm “window” that stood out in February (we had a temperature of 5 ° C), I treated the trees with copper sulphate: 200 g per bucket of water. Used the same solution for plums. But for peaches, the concentration increased slightly - 300 g per bucket.
To better stick to the liquid branches, added 1 tbsp. l washing powder. Why this treatment? For prevention - to finish off the causative agents of the disease (if any survived) and prevent them from waking up, because moniliosis is very fond of wet weather.
I conducted the treatment during the period of the so-called pink cone - when apricots and peaches from flower buds show the tips of bright pink petals. It is at this moment that the fungus sprouts and is most vulnerable, so it is important not to miss the time.
Some summer residents use the same vitriol, but I was convinced that it is much more effective to use systemic fungicides that penetrate plants and beat infection from the inside. The most harmless drugs are the class of strobilurins. They do not even poison bees.
I smeared the trunks with clay and mullein in May to rejuvenate the bark.
May-June - two foliar dressings, so that the ovaries do not fall. The basis of the solution is nitrogen. You can use all the same urea - a handful on a bucket of water. If in May a systemic fungicide is added to the tank, then such a solution will solve another problem - to protect the trees from curly leaves.
As a result, in 2016, there was no curly hair on all my peaches, cherries, plums, cherries and apricots or moliliosis (that is, dried flowers, leaves and twigs). And at the same time and the aphid on 100% was absent. The harvest was born rich, and young apricots-four-year-olds gave surprisingly many fruits during the first fruiting in their life.
In summer, I broke the upper growth in them, slightly shortened the upper growth of the lower branches (and at the same time, the plums, cherries and peaches) and repeated the same operation in the autumn (and at the plums too).
See also: Treatment and spraying of the garden: from March to October
Processing cherries - that in berries there were no worms
One more thing: sometimes I see notes with questions about the appearance of worms in cherry fruit. The problem is well-known.
To get rid of it, I spray the flowering trees (including cherries and plums - directly on the flowers) with the following composition: 1 tbsp. l drinking soda per 10 liters of water. Result: the berries are absolutely clean, the yield is not reduced.
By a similar remedy I save the red currant from red-headed aphids (also a common problem), I only take already 3 st. l. for the same volume of water. I spray bushes in the early spring, as soon as the leaves appear. I do this necessarily on the inner side of the foliage and until the appearance of characteristic bulges on it, when the aphids have already settled inside the leaves.
© Author: Tamara Yakovlevna
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- The two most dangerous diseases of apple and pear: scab and rust and the fight against them
- How to deal with gall aphids on currant - means and methods
- Top 5 garden pests and folk remedies against them - collection No. 6
- How to deal with the larvae of the May beetle - Khrushchev in the garden?
- Bean pest - bean kernel: photo and description, fight
- Spraying scheme for cherries from moniliosis
- Processing black currants from pests - all without chemicals!
- Folk remedies from the Colorado beetle and expert advice
- What to do if the gooseberry "burns" and becomes covered with red spots?
- If the currant withers, turns yellow and dries - how to save?
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Tell me, what's with the peach (pictured)? Planted last fall, in the spring they sprayed for curliness. And in summer such spots appeared on the leaves ...
#
- You have correctly identified the problem - curliness. The first signs of the disease appear in early spring during bud break. It usually develops in conditions of high humidity and low temperatures. The most favorable period for illness is a cool and prolonged spring.
Control measures
In autumn, at the end of leaf fall, treat the crowns and trunks with a urea solution (500-700 g per 10 liters of water).
In the next season, preventive measures are required to combat leaf curl. On the swelling buds, but even before they bloom (the green cone stage), spray the peach with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 l of water). Before flowering (pink bud phase), use one of the fungicides - Topsin-M, Horus, Strobi, Ridomil Gold (according to the instructions). After flowering - preparations Skor, Tilt. If necessary, repeat the spraying with Skor 14 days after the last treatment.
#
Once I read that if you plant tall tomatoes under a peach, the tree will not be sick with curly leaves. I decided to conduct an experiment. The tomato variety does not matter, the ripening period, too.
A couple of bushes grown in seedlings. By the time of planting in the ground (late April), the plants were already more than 1 m. In a near-stem circle, a peach dug a trench 10 cm deep, planted 3 seedlings, tied the tops to the branches. From sunburn (the first time) and return frosts, an old tulle threw on tomatoes. And what do you think? Peach really was not sick!
#
I have never encountered a positive result of such a neighborhood of garden crops. And I do not believe that tomato volatile production can affect the resistance of peaches to curly leaves. Most likely, the year the gardener conducted the experiment was not favorable for the development of a common disease. Just a coincidence that the peach did not get sick. But this year, due to an abnormally warm winter, we expect an outbreak of infectious diseases and an increase in pest activity. And if the summer is also cool and rainy, as predicted, this will only exacerbate the situation. Therefore, I strongly recommend that you do not neglect traditional remedies (in the spring - this is primarily copper preparations). Use them on time and in accordance with the instructions.
Julia KONDRATENOK, breeder-phytopathologist, Ph.D. agricultural sciences
#
Curl of peach leaves is one of the most common diseases of this culture, which manifests itself at the beginning of the season and is rapidly developing. Under the blow of the fungus, the blossoming leaves fall - they become amber or reddish-pink with an uneven (wavy) surface. 10-12 days after infection, a white waxy coating forms on the underside of the leaves. The central part of the leaf plate swells, the edges are bent. Young shoots are also deformed. It is important not to miss the processing time. Here is my outline.
Before the buds open, I spray the peach with a tank mixture of biological products: for 10 liters of water - Planriz (50 g), Trichodermin (100 g), Pentafag-S (100 g) and some fungicide, but half the dose of the recommended (for example, Chorus - 1 d).
I cut and burn the affected leaves, shoots (signs of the disease are pronounced in May).
The next two treatments are immediately after flowering and 10-15 days after it. I use the tank mixture described above, only fungicide I take Skor (1 g per 10 liters of water).
#
She was just about to write about a peach, as a reader from Kursk got ahead of me. But I’ll nevertheless clarify something - which was not in her letter and what I had to face.
So, I bought my seedling of the Vityaz variety on the market in May. He was even wearing flowers. She planted, not really hoping for anything, as the neighbors said that they tried to plant both peaches and pears, but they did not succeed.
A peach does not grow in our area - perhaps because our groundwater lies close to the surface, perhaps for some other reason. But I decided to try it myself and draw my own conclusions. She planted by all the rules, began to look after, as a small child. My peach was wintered, and in the spring the bark cracked on it. I took a sharp knife, treated it with potassium permanganate, cleaned the damaged areas and with the help of a sponge
nourished wounds with brilliant green, and two days later saturated all the cracks with potassium permanganate.
But in the first year my Vityaz became hardened and began to discard the leaves. What to do? I subtracted the names of preparations from curly peaches in the old book, went shopping, but these funds are not imported. One seller explained that they are expensive, there is no demand, so they do not order them.
Well, let’s look further what can be done. I found a recipe: if the peach has already hardened, take 200 g of yarrow, brew, cool, dilute 10 l of water and sprinkle abundantly in the tree. The first time I bought yarrow grass in a pharmacy, now it’s dry land itself, since the field is next to the cottage, and it grows a lot there. After a week, I repeat everything to consolidate the result. For the winter, I warm the tree with litter from the chicken coop, dry marigolds, leaves - everything that comes to hand.
I planted a peach in the 2013 year, and it bloomed every year. The neighbors asked with irony: “Well, when will you try your peaches, Vasilyevna?” And finally, in 2017, i.e. four years later, my peach was born. Yes, how! Large, clean, large fruits.
And then I made a mistake - I hastened to collect the fruits. It was already the end of September - I was afraid that it would get colder in the yard, and they would freeze. She collected them slightly immature, hoping that they would reach ripeness, but it turns out that they not only ripen, but also quickly deteriorate. I concluded: you can’t rush! The variety is late ripe, so let the fruits ripen on the tree. Only when the first ones begin to fall, then the time will come to collect them.
Last season, I did so and collected two buckets of delicious peaches! And I ate myself, and I cooked the jam. And now the neighbors are silent for some reason ...